Jackline Redesigned
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2019
- This is a new video that replaces the two older jackline videos. It is a much better redesign. I no longer use any plastic clips and it is ever less expensive and easier to build. Using 4,200 lbs 1 inch nylon webbing this jackline should hold in the most severe conditions. A Jackline is suppose to keep you on the boat and I believe this design will accomplish this with minimal fuss. While every boat is different I hope the ideas presented here will help you design a jackline the works for you.
Хобби
I like your ideas, the soft loops and to the mast, I sail on the Irish west coast, rarely see blue skies! Lots of rain, wind and cold!
You forgot to mention NOT to use a regular carabiner, but instead use one with a quick release (snap shackle) at your vest attachment point. This way if you are being dragged under (boat capsize, or other incident) you will always be able to release yourself no matter the force. Thanks for the vid!
Yes, a snap shackle is better. Thank you for bringing it up! Another solution is to always have a knife holstered on your belt so you can cut your self free.
I never considered a central Jackline but it's a great idea. I currently have two running along the deck, either side but this is a far better solution.
Handy stuff. I'd probably use different coloured straps for the aft and forward tethers to minimise any possibility for confusion while switching tethers. Quickdraw climbing carabiners would also speed up the clipping in/out process - they're generally lighter too.
Yes...and bright colored straps might be easier to see at night. Thank you for commenting.
Was thinking the exact same thing, might have them white to see at night.
A very clear demonstration of an easy and cheap jackline system. I do like your idea of taking the line to the mast. Thank you Captain Lang .
Holy moly important video well done. Lots of negative nellies but message important and well taken. I'm a solo on the Great Lakes and found this helpful as i design my system.
Thanks for the kind words!
Love watching your experiments and progress!
Great setup. I'll definitely be trying that set up on my boat. Cheers
Really thoughtful approach. Thanks
Thank you for sharing Captain Lang 👌🏼👍👏
Excellent!! Excellent idea's.
Your Awesome !! I like your ingenuinety..
That's great info.
Thanks for the guidence 😀
Great video lesson!!! Thanks a lot!
Very good development.
Great video, thank you very much 👍🏻
Great solution, thank you!
Great video and experiment. By following this you just saved the average sailor about $150.00. Thanks for that and happy sailing!
Ty for your Vids. Plz keep posting. Be well,, ty
I have several partially completed but can't finish them under the current situation...this is no fun. Stay safe...stay well
Thanks
Achosenman
Sorry, I wouldn't do this. Nylon to Nylon is mentioned by the RYA (Royal Yachting Association) and RNLI (Royal National Lifeboat Institution) as an example of how NOT to attach a tether to a Jackeline. If it gets used in anger, the friction can burn through a line in a single mob event.
you probably do not want to have the aft end of the jack-line tied off any further aft than mid-cockpit. that way you are not hanging off the stern of the boat should you slip...
It does have to be far enough aft to be able work comfortably behind the helm. I keep my tether short which helps keep me in the cockpit. Your point is a good one on a modern boat with an open transom it would be very easy to end up being dragged behind the boat.
Nice
At 5:12, I would never use fastec buckles as an attachment for the tether to your pfd/harness. The plastic breaks too easily.
Good video but as you are interested in extreme conditions, I'd hate to have a mast failure and be strapped to the jackline should it get fouled in mast and shroud cable going OB.
2:10] Never do this, having two pieces of nylon rubbing against each other under load: not fabric, not webbing, not cordage. In military or sport parachuting this is a cardinal sin - nylon to nylon contact. Under a shock load two lengthy of nylon: fabric, cord, or webbing will: heat, fuse, and break in less than a second. Shock loads of a sailor falling overboard is probably a lot less than a parachutist going from 125kts to 0kts in a second - but would you really want to tempt fate like that? Ok, you are not a paratrooper, but your equipment is exposed to salt water and UV for vastly more hours than a parachute ever is. Don't do it.
Do anything, use a metal carbineer, shackle, or fitting between the two pieces of nylon. Have a nylon webbing loop running over a nylon jackline? have that loop surrounded by a length of cotton or kevlar tubular webbing - and don't expect that solution to last for years and years, replace it on a regular schedule.
You bring up some very valid points... I will add a cloth cover to my setup.
I was going to say the same thing. You can also swap out the webbing tether with dyneema and use a SS thimble. That way you don't have soft on soft which is a big deal in the climbing world. The thimble will also maintain a save bend radius. Great video lots of good point and ideas to expand on
@@sailingbrewer What's a "save bend radius"?
@@harbourdogNL I think he means "safe" bend radius
The one problem with this is that for those of us in more inclement conditions using a large sprayhood up, it's hard to fix it up the centre line.
Cheers
You are correct some boats make it very hard to get the line close the the center. My goal here is be more suggestion than rule.
Well then, put the webbing some place else.
I am using seat belts that are tough and tested to meet standards.
I really enjoy your shows. Thank you for making them. Have you done any research into nylon on nylon friction? Rock climbers use carabiners to prevent the friction that could burn through a rope or nylon anchor. Could this be an issue with your set up? Or do you think that level of friction in your set up would never be reached?
There is no tension between the teather and the jackline and it slides with no apparent friction. Also the duty cycle or the number of trips up and down are very low compared to most things where friction becomes an issue. I think sun damage, salt crystals from ocean spray causing damage and metal corrosion of the carabiners will be more important. Like all thing on a boat it takes constant inspection and maintenance.
Sorry, but I have to disagree with your analysis. The possibility of failure with nylon on nylon occurs when the system is under load. Walking up and down the deck sliding your tether along the jack line will do minimal damage. The problem will appear when you go over the side and put load on the system. It is amazing how quickly nylon will melt through. Definitely use a carabiner on your tether!
@@brianmiller7934 I am a climber, but learning to sail. I agree. Glad this was brought up, definitely no nylon on nylon like that.
A carabiner should be used.
Captain Lang, great description and testing of your jack line set up. Can you send me a link for your webbing purchase? The only 1" Webbing I know of which I have used that reach 4,000 plus tensile strength is rescue Tubular Webbing. It should cost not much more maybe double or less of single ply webbing. Tubular Webbing is much more smooth plus responds and produces less friction more like round lines on a sailboat than flat single ply webbing. 1" Single ply webbing I am familiar with rate around 1,000 - 1,400 tensile strength at best? Please inform me if I am mistaking?? All the Very Best!
Jim Rodgers
Search Amazon for "Country Brook Design - Durable 1 Inch Heavy Nylon Webbing" You will see in the description "tensile strength is 4,200 pounds"
Didnt know christopher waltz made sailing videos :P
Captain Lang is the Troy McClure of boat safety!
thank you for the videos.! what brand of hat are you wearing in this video ?
Sorry, I got the hat at a swap meat many years ago, and it has no label. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Should be using double or triple locking climbing rated carbiners for that. Expnesive but if it saves your life...
It is important that one can release the carbineer quickly with just one handed and by feel under rough conditions. I also found lots of climbing rated carbineers are not marine grade and could get compromised due to corrosion from sea water. When designing your own system you have to balance all the factors.
On the second option do you only run one jackline down the center and around the mast or do you have a
second line and run it around the mast from the opposite side thus the lines cross at the mast??
If I was solo sailing across an ocean I would use two lines crossing at the mast but for everything else I find I can reach everything important with just one line. Your boat may be different and you should test to see what you can and can't reach.
Thank you for the video! How did you tension/connect to the 2nd cleat? The video cuts out at 01:16, my question is about the seconds that would have followed.
When I made the video I already knew that this first design was not going to be my last so I was just faking the attachment at that point. But if you go to 2 minutes and 58 seconds, you can see where I'm attaching the lines for real.
@@CaptainLang Thank you. You seem to be using lines which can be tensioned after you connected both ends. Makes sense to me now.
If you’re going to make it this complicated you may be better off putting a spinnaker halyard on your vest to keep you on deck, gets you full length of the boat safely. Have you tried that?
Going down wind and jibing with the spinnaker halyard attached to your harness could get you in trouble as the halyard gets in the way of the boom as it comes across. Tacking has the same problem which is bad but maybe not quite as bad. I have used the spinnaker halyard on my harness to get some video where I was leaning out very far.
I see good point on gybing risk indeed, more suitable for long trajectories then active maneuvering then.
Isn't nylon the wrong material since it stretches and "stretch" is your enemy with jacklines and tethers?
In working with this Nylon webbing I haven't detect any stretch however a little stretch would be good as it would be a shock absorber. This webbing can handle over 4,000 lbs so the strength is there.
Why not have the two tethers attached to yourself as with regular tethers, use one going to the mast then clip on the second to work at the mast then unclip the first to go forward. The drawback is as you go forward the boat is very narrow, so the tether is again too long.
My tether going forward is very short, as all I am doing is down on the deck, like setting up an anchor or hooking up the tack of a spinnaker.
@@CaptainLang Not how you portrayed your method in the video.
Can you please give the item number from Amazon?
Country Brook Design - Durable 1 Inch Heavy Nylon Webbing - 29 Vibrant Colors (Black, 20 Yards) ... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QL79JC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
need to tie a water knot on the webbing. also, aren’t you briefly unclipped at the mast?
you are correct a water knot would be better on my prototype but sewing on the final finished version. The way it's supposed to work at that the mast transfer, is that you put the new clip on first before you take the old clip off. Sorry, If I didn't make that clear.
@@CaptainLang thanks for the video. it’s an issue for singlehanders.
I'm not sure I would trust 4200 pound rated nylon webbing. The knot will reduce this to 2100 pounds breaking strength immediately and if you fall hard it may very well put more strain on the webbing than it can hold.
Let's say it's only 2000 lbs and a 200 lbs person dropped hard enough to put 2000 lbs breaking force on it. That would be 10 times the force of gravity, all concentrated on a narrow strap. The damage that would be done to your body with that kind of force would mean that the strap breaking is the least of your problems.
2:43 Attention assholes on the sportfishing boat: NO WAKE!!
I appreciate effort...but this is very unsafe and not recommended by US Sailing and Safety at Sea. I quick release needs to be at to the d rings and the webbing is not to be tied, it weakens the web by half.
I apologize I did not make it clear enough that I was tying the webbing only on the prototype to flush out the design. Thank you for your comment, you made several good points. This is an open forum and I encourage everyone to contribute their ideas.
Knots reduce webbing breaking strength by 50%. Sewed eyes are preferred. Your jackline is 2100 lbs ubs brand new (no uv degradation. I find your omission of these points irresponsible. Also webbing on webbing is a no do due to heat friction that can melt the webbing. Must connect tethers to jacklines using sliding metal rings. What exactly are your professional credentials?
I do state at the beginning of the video that I am tying the lines as a temporary measure. I am making a prototype first before I make the final version. When I'm using a Jackline the seas are at least a little rough and I'm moving slow. Often the decks are wet and so Web on Web friction is extremely low low and does not create heat. Like any line it needs to be inspected regularly and replaced at the 1st sign of where. Thank you for your comment... I hope everyone reads all the comments as this is an open forum.
@@CaptainLang I am an industrial rigger by trade and certification. You sir do not know the properties of nylon cordage and slingage and how knots degarde their SWL and UBS specs. Furthermore you did not answer my direct question regarding your professional credentials. You call yourself Captain. Do you have your ticket? Yes or no. There are only three types of Captain's licenses available USCG 25 ton, 50 ton and 100 ton. Which license do you have?
OUPV
yuck hardware store beeners and webbing
Thats a marine beener