Thank you Sailrite for this very helpful video. I viewed it several times before purchasing 4 sets of Quick Attach systems and vinyl coated lifeline ( a personal choice based on aesthetic, slightly larger diameter, hand-feel, and to what I was accustomed - I understand the cons associated with coated wire, and will inspect frequently). The video gave me the confidence that I could do this myself and be successful, if I took my time. During this COVID-19 stay-at-home, none of the rigging shops (4 of them) to whom I sent an inquiry to have lifelines made responded. I decided to use the Quick Attach system rather than Dyneema/Spectra/Amsteel as it has been 25 years (at least) since I have done any rope splicing, and if I screwed up a splice it has a dangerous, if not potentially deadly, consequences. Follow the tips and instructions in the video and on the packaging and this is an 'easy' project. Every boat is a different and some things may slow you down, but take your time. Once I figured a good, safe, way to remove the proper length of vinyl coating from the wire rope, the speed of the installation improved. All seems very solid, feels great in my hands, and my boat now looks good again, not to mention it is safe once more. Time will tell how this system will hold up, but I have a high confidence level this is a very good system.
Attach hdwre to stanchions, pulpit rings/triangles. Unscrew the turnbuckle and pelican hook halfway open. Measure your cable lengths from fat end of cone on one end, to fat end of cone on the other end. Cut your cable to measure. The open turnbuckle and pelican will take up about rwo inches of slack when you tighten them, and you'll get a good fit.
To be certain, I should cut the lifeline at the first stanchion? There's a pelican hook at the pulpit. Install quick attach eye in first stanchion, facing aft, and install pelican hook on other end of cut lifeline to connect to eye? I would install the Hayn Gate Stops (hold collar) to maintain lifeline tension between other stanchions when the pelican hooks are disconnected from the eyes. Does this all make sense? Thanks a bunch for your assistance with this
I have a Beneteau 343. Releasing the pelican hooks at the bow drops the lifelines well past amidships. I would like Pelican Hooks at the end of the lifelines and attach them to Eyes at the first stanchion. I would "Double Eyes" at the first stanchion so I can add Pelican hooks on the lifeline sections from aft. Are "Double Eyes available? Also, the holes in my stanchions are just large enough to receive the 3/16 lifelines. Will the hardware fit through this? Thanks for the video Thanks
I looked up the item on your site and some things are not clear. First, how much wire is included in the kit? Second, Does the kit include enough for both sides or is it necessary to purchase two kits to complete both the starboard and port sides? Thanks for posting your informative video.
Hello Tony, Item #104315 at sailrite.com may be what you are looking for, if not let me know. The lifeline will fit the holes in the stanchions you have and the hardware's threaded bolt will also fit in those holes of the stanchion (the hardware will need to be taken apart to be inserted in the hole). Let me know if you have more questions.
Use synthetic lifelines instead. Same goes for standing rigging. Stainless steel wiring is obsolete, dyneema does all the work now. DIY works perfectly, provided one knows what to do, how, and to respect the engineering concepts of load, chafe, etc...
@@SVSparklemuffin I started 8 years ago using synthetic rigging: softshackles, runners, low friction rings, ... thereby replacing all kinds of heavy blocks and other hardware. No uV-degradation so far. There is continuous lab testing using accelerated exposure to UV en salt going on all over the world. No problem. In the port of Rotterdam tests were performed with dyneema lanyards for cruise ships. Contrary to steel cable, dyneema does not sample kinetic energy. If the cable should snap, there is no dangerous wagging aroung of lethal projectile cable parts. Dyneema is the perfect DIY concept. The iron, stone and bronze age is still going on, but stainless steel rigging and parts are very soon going to obsolete.
@@mishpatim123 Great, thank you for the additional info! I'm on SS now, but will consider this when it's time to replace. There's much to like about synthetic.
Thank you Sailrite for this very helpful video. I viewed it several times before purchasing 4 sets of Quick Attach systems and vinyl coated lifeline ( a personal choice based on aesthetic, slightly larger diameter, hand-feel, and to what I was accustomed - I understand the cons associated with coated wire, and will inspect frequently). The video gave me the confidence that I could do this myself and be successful, if I took my time.
During this COVID-19 stay-at-home, none of the rigging shops (4 of them) to whom I sent an inquiry to have lifelines made responded.
I decided to use the Quick Attach system rather than Dyneema/Spectra/Amsteel as it has been 25 years (at least) since I have done any rope splicing, and if I screwed up a splice it has a dangerous, if not potentially deadly, consequences.
Follow the tips and instructions in the video and on the packaging and this is an 'easy' project. Every boat is a different and some things may slow you down, but take your time. Once I figured a good, safe, way to remove the proper length of vinyl coating from the wire rope, the speed of the installation improved.
All seems very solid, feels great in my hands, and my boat now looks good again, not to mention it is safe once more.
Time will tell how this system will hold up, but I have a high confidence level this is a very good system.
This just convinced me to buy from Sailrite to upgrade my lifelines! Thanks for the great video
Measure twice, cut once!
Very informative channel, thanks for all the videos.
You are welcome!
Yes, I believe that will work great!
Attach hdwre to stanchions, pulpit rings/triangles. Unscrew the turnbuckle and pelican hook halfway open. Measure your cable lengths from fat end of cone on one end, to fat end of cone on the other end. Cut your cable to measure. The open turnbuckle and pelican will take up about rwo inches of slack when you tighten them, and you'll get a good fit.
Really helpful video. I plan to replace mine this season and will get them from Sail-Rite.
Excellent! Let us know if you have any questions.
Very informative and detailed video!
Sold ty sir
To be certain, I should cut the lifeline at the first stanchion? There's a pelican hook at the pulpit. Install quick attach eye in first stanchion, facing aft, and install pelican hook on other end of cut lifeline to connect to eye?
I would install the Hayn Gate Stops (hold collar) to maintain lifeline tension between other stanchions when the pelican hooks are disconnected from the eyes. Does this all make sense?
Thanks a bunch for your assistance with this
I have a Beneteau 343. Releasing the pelican hooks at the bow drops the lifelines well past amidships. I would like Pelican Hooks at the end of the lifelines and attach them to Eyes at the first stanchion. I would "Double Eyes" at the first stanchion so I can add Pelican hooks on the lifeline sections from aft. Are "Double Eyes available? Also, the holes in my stanchions are just large enough to receive the 3/16 lifelines. Will the hardware fit through this? Thanks for the video
Thanks
I looked up the item on your site and some things are not clear. First, how much wire is included in the kit? Second, Does the kit include enough for both sides or is it necessary to purchase two kits to complete both the starboard and port sides?
Thanks for posting your informative video.
He said it within the first minute of the video
Hello Tony,
Item #104315 at sailrite.com may be what you are looking for, if not let me know. The lifeline will fit the holes in the stanchions you have and the hardware's threaded bolt will also fit in those holes of the stanchion (the hardware will need to be taken apart to be inserted in the hole).
Let me know if you have more questions.
Sailrite za
Use synthetic lifelines instead. Same goes for standing rigging. Stainless steel wiring is obsolete, dyneema does all the work now. DIY works perfectly, provided one knows what to do, how, and to respect the engineering concepts of load, chafe, etc...
I love the idea but am concerned about UV. How well do they hold up to UV? How much strength is lost per year of exposure?
@@SVSparklemuffin I started 8 years ago using synthetic rigging: softshackles, runners, low friction rings, ... thereby replacing all kinds of heavy blocks and other hardware. No uV-degradation so far. There is continuous lab testing using accelerated exposure to UV en salt going on all over the world. No problem. In the port of Rotterdam tests were performed with dyneema lanyards for cruise ships. Contrary to steel cable, dyneema does not sample kinetic energy. If the cable should snap, there is no dangerous wagging aroung of lethal projectile cable parts. Dyneema is the perfect DIY concept. The iron, stone and bronze age is still going on, but stainless steel rigging and parts are very soon going to obsolete.
@@mishpatim123 Great, thank you for the additional info! I'm on SS now, but will consider this when it's time to replace. There's much to like about synthetic.
Has this Swag system been pressure tested? How is it compared to traditional crimping/swaging?
Is there a way I could send a pic of my current lifeline configuration, if that would help?
That is great for the top lifeline. How do you put the gate in the bottom?
It is done in the same way that we did the top lifeline.
Email just sent with pic of boat as well as a pic of the Gate Stop collar I mentioned above.
Yes, please email me the pictures. Send it to eric@sailrite.com
Why does the announcer pronounce "sail" so wierd? It's like Say iL right. Very strange.
8:50, then10:09 😂😂😂