I was live there at the final and as an austrian climber I have to say, that this was one of the most intensive moments I've ever experienced in a sport event. It was extreme loud and heated, but in such a positive and beautiful way. Even two years after this event, the replay is a very emotional moment tbh.
Wow. Janja pulls ahead in the last minute or so, but spends so much time standing on that big yellow volume chalking up and re-arranging her hands. Incredible to watch that way, great tip.
this is indeed a great watching experience, thanks. they are so similar in their style and their skills. very thrilling final! and it hurts watching Janja spending so much time up there, knowing that these seconds she spends there chalking and resting will cost her the gold-medal in the end.
Shame it came down to time. Climbing shouldnt be about how fast you can climb a wall :( nevertheless, still was great to watch! Grats to all the girls!
"Countback" means using the score from the previous round. So if there is a tie for 1st place in the finals with both climbers topping the route, they'd refer to the semi-final results to see who scored higher. If there's still a tie in the semi's, then they'd countback to qualifying results to determine the winner. I much prefer it being determined by fastest time if more than 1 person tops the route.
That's really not true.. Time matters guys. Climbing on sight is all about intuition, is all about finding the right movement and body position that allows you to get on sooner. moreover, on a similar experience level, faster is a synonimous with stronger: fatigue tend to slow you down. So at least in a small part it counts.
That is absolute bullshit concerning climbing... yes the speed by which you move makes a difference for you, especially when onsighting BUT it only affects the moment when you pump out, so it has to be put into perspective with your endurance and ability to read the route right. This is included in climbing anyway. So no need to artifically add this element into the equation...just set difficult and long routes and climbers will have to manage their climbing speed anway....
Bez Bizara makes sense. They could have mirrored the routes? Why 4 diff? Why creating unequal chances from start? Complete mess. And then the logo thing with men qualifying? This whole wc is a mess after mess. So many mistakes it just angers fans.
Nice work on the highpoint marks! The zoom in on limbs is kinda nice, but totally destroys the visual flow, though. With all the zooming and panning it's really hard to see what the climber is actually doing e.g. during Jessi Pilz' crucial move - very annoying! I'd prefer much less of it - you could show some zooming on decissive misses during replay only.
Nice Idea, but you always have to plan a route but you mostly will not Need it. And you have to do this on the same day, so you also have to put it on the wall.
so jain kim height: 1.53 janja 1.64 imagine an alternate world where climbing is not all about dynamic long moves only, and where time doesnt matter. the results would be totally different... they are hurting professionals carreers with these crazy rules... oohh such a shame :(
that's called rope drag. most of the time it is not in your favor, because it pulls you down. Here it seemed to have helped a bit. But if the jump was further, it may have held the athletes back from succeeding ;)
EskimoRockRolle Sure. Thats what the 6 minute rule is for. And thats why there should be a countback if 2 or more climbers top the route inside 6 minutes...
@@fettaspalta3127 the 6 minute time limit is ok, that is something they can train for. But using speed as a tie breaker makes it a game of luck and gambling. Should they rush it because they think there slow and it MIGHT come down to speed; makeing the climbers gamble and risk pumping out and/or falling early. They don't know how fast the others went or will go, and they don't know if they might come down to speed. It's all luck and a big gamble.
I hate countback. The deciding factor for the finals should be based only on the finals route. Not counted back to semi's or even qualifying. The finals results should be decided by the finals route. And if 1 person tops faster by taking less rests, then they're the stronger climber and should be awarded the win.
Route looks good, great performance by the woman and overall good show, BUT a winner decided by time?!? COME ON!!! Lead climbing is all about DIFFICULTY and has NOTHING to do with time! This format needs to change (back)! 8 Minutes, as well as long & difficult enough routes that even Janja and Jessi pump out towards the top so we see seperationt Moreover no one needs tops in semis! Make semis super hard towards the end so we get seperation ...
well, having at least one person toping the route is pretty cool. Very hard for route setter to have ONLY one. Time decision is good when time happens. I prefer it than splitting based on semi position
Basically it's not a timekeeping either..... but if two people get the same distance... how else are they supposed to tell who won? There's time the best solution!
It goes without saying time should not be a factor since this is not speed climbing... but.. not to take away anything from Jessica, but the rope held her swing on the last move...
ballofsnow Yeah IMO this is what speed climbing is for, I don't want to see a non speed event decided by speed. There should be an "untoppable" wall and just see who gets the furthest up, plain and simple. If they get to EXACTLY the same place make em climb again or give them tied 1st place but honestly speed should not be a factor. I have no horse in the race by the way, I don't care who wins.
Bez Bizara Another thing, with Sean McColl being eliminated for using an available hold which UPON REVIEW turned out to be illegal because it was advertising? What the hell is that? Why are you putting DQ holds on the problem??? Holy shit there should be nothing in reach that can get the climbers DQ'd, that is so obvious but they messed that up tool
was it too easy though, al of the others climbers didnt get over hold 35, it is super hard for the routesetters to factor janja and jessi being this good. It is a bit stupid that the semi final was set too easy so time was a factor which is really boring.
Many things can decide. Comparing strong and weak points: JP vs JG - similar endurance, JG slightly better max strength, JP less to lose (more likely to take a risk at the end), JG slightly faster + knowing it (which caused here not to hurry at the end) JP better climbing strategy applied - bigger risk at the end allowed her to win
I was live there at the final and as an austrian climber I have to say, that this was one of the most intensive moments I've ever experienced in a sport event. It was extreme loud and heated, but in such a positive and beautiful way. Even two years after this event, the replay is a very emotional moment tbh.
Watching Jessica and Janja climb and the tight outcome is one of the best moments in any sport I ever have ever watched.
Great final, watching Jessica and Janja climb is just spectacular.
Load up 51:10 in one window, and 58:17 in another, then hit play on both...
Wow. Janja pulls ahead in the last minute or so, but spends so much time standing on that big yellow volume chalking up and re-arranging her hands. Incredible to watch that way, great tip.
thx! :) its so painful to see how Janja lost so much time on this last yellow volume. She was far ahead and lost by 10-11 seconds... great climbing
this is indeed a great watching experience, thanks. they are so similar in their style and their skills. very thrilling final! and it hurts watching Janja spending so much time up there, knowing that these seconds she spends there chalking and resting will cost her the gold-medal in the end.
I am a big fan of Janja but Jessy was at home, climb first and was faster. Good job from both of them!
Climbing starts at 5:40
Amazing final, that was an exciting end!
Great coverage too
Amazing retransmission, good work ifsc
Amazing final, thanks!
Jain Kim is so precious❤
Ouais mais elle est chez red bull et red bull c'est de la merde
JG lost 17 seconds in the last 3 holds, omg sad/happy
What a final :)
There should have been a super final for janja and Jessica coz both of them topped the final route
but jessy was faster...
Shame it came down to time. Climbing shouldnt be about how fast you can climb a wall :( nevertheless, still was great to watch! Grats to all the girls!
I kinda prefer it being time based than countback based for tie-breakers though.
Nathan Bell what is countback? I think the solution with time is okay, I mean what else can we do except having an ''infinite'' high wall?
"Countback" means using the score from the previous round. So if there is a tie for 1st place in the finals with both climbers topping the route, they'd refer to the semi-final results to see who scored higher. If there's still a tie in the semi's, then they'd countback to qualifying results to determine the winner.
I much prefer it being determined by fastest time if more than 1 person tops the route.
Nathan Bell thanks, and I prefer the time method too even thoug lead isn't about speed.
just not hard enough near the top top... sad
Best scene: 57:11
this may be a dumb question - but did Janja know what the tiebreak was?
war super spannend
Semis should be really hard obviously toward the end. What is this?
That's really not true.. Time matters guys. Climbing on sight is all about intuition, is all about finding the right movement and body position that allows you to get on sooner. moreover, on a similar experience level, faster is a synonimous with stronger: fatigue tend to slow you down. So at least in a small part it counts.
That is absolute bullshit concerning climbing... yes the speed by which you move makes a difference for you, especially when onsighting BUT it only affects the moment when you pump out, so it has to be put into perspective with your endurance and ability to read the route right. This is included in climbing anyway. So no need to artifically add this element into the equation...just set difficult and long routes and climbers will have to manage their climbing speed anway....
What happened to countback? Someone tops all routes in the comp and is second?
Bez Bizara makes sense. They could have mirrored the routes? Why 4 diff? Why creating unequal chances from start? Complete mess. And then the logo thing with men qualifying? This whole wc is a mess after mess. So many mistakes it just angers fans.
Nice work on the highpoint marks!
The zoom in on limbs is kinda nice, but totally destroys the visual flow, though. With all the zooming and panning it's really hard to see what the climber is actually doing e.g. during Jessi Pilz' crucial move - very annoying! I'd prefer much less of it - you could show some zooming on decissive misses during replay only.
Stupid rule. Both Jessie and Janja did it amazingly!
But at the end, you Need a winner.
@@mikafull I prefer superfinals.
Nice Idea, but you always have to plan a route but you mostly will not Need it. And you have to do this on the same day, so you also have to put it on the wall.
ye superfinals on mens route pls
so jain kim height: 1.53
janja 1.64
imagine an alternate world where climbing is not all about dynamic long moves only, and where time doesnt matter. the results would be totally different... they are hurting professionals carreers with these crazy rules... oohh such a shame :(
55:27 Does the belayer catch Jessicas swing for her? When she launches for the top holds.
that's called rope drag. most of the time it is not in your favor, because it pulls you down. Here it seemed to have helped a bit.
But if the jump was further, it may have held the athletes back from succeeding ;)
I also noticed the same thing when Janja climbed so i guess its all about the rope drag since both belayers wouldnt be doing that! :)
Got a little carried away with the camera angles... for fuck's sake...
Jessi Pilz ❤💓💙💗❣
should be 2 golds 1 bronze, time really shouldn't be a factor.
Why though?
It has to be a factor - otherwise climbers would take long rests, if possible.
EskimoRockRolle Sure. Thats what the 6 minute rule is for. And thats why there should be a countback if 2 or more climbers top the route inside 6 minutes...
@@fettaspalta3127 the 6 minute time limit is ok, that is something they can train for. But using speed as a tie breaker makes it a game of luck and gambling. Should they rush it because they think there slow and it MIGHT come down to speed; makeing the climbers gamble and risk pumping out and/or falling early. They don't know how fast the others went or will go, and they don't know if they might come down to speed. It's all luck and a big gamble.
I hate countback. The deciding factor for the finals should be based only on the finals route. Not counted back to semi's or even qualifying. The finals results should be decided by the finals route. And if 1 person tops faster by taking less rests, then they're the stronger climber and should be awarded the win.
Route looks good, great performance by the woman and overall good show, BUT a winner decided by time?!? COME ON!!! Lead climbing is all about DIFFICULTY and has NOTHING to do with time! This format needs to change (back)! 8 Minutes, as well as long & difficult enough routes that even Janja and Jessi pump out towards the top so we see seperationt
Moreover no one needs tops in semis! Make semis super hard towards the end so we get seperation ...
well, having at least one person toping the route is pretty cool. Very hard for route setter to have ONLY one. Time decision is good when time happens. I prefer it than splitting based on semi position
olympics has stuffed the rules up
Basically it's not a timekeeping either..... but if two people get the same distance... how else are they supposed to tell who won? There's time the best solution!
It goes without saying time should not be a factor since this is not speed climbing... but.. not to take away anything from Jessica, but the rope held her swing on the last move...
wow same thing with Janja
what are you trying to say? That Jessi would have fallen if rope was not too tight?
. janja is the best... 😍
Horrible camera work once again. Why on earth would we want to see close-ups of a hand crimping or clipping?
very good camera action imho
IFSC ruleset is maximised for dissatisfaction and minimising entertainment.
That's right. Whatever their justification is, as a spectator my gut reaction at the end was disappointment.
I like 'em both, whoever does the strongest performance among all competitors should win. But it's not speed-climbing!
ballofsnow Yeah IMO this is what speed climbing is for, I don't want to see a non speed event decided by speed. There should be an "untoppable" wall and just see who gets the furthest up, plain and simple.
If they get to EXACTLY the same place make em climb again or give them tied 1st place but honestly speed should not be a factor. I have no horse in the race by the way, I don't care who wins.
Bez Bizara Another thing, with Sean McColl being eliminated for using an available hold which UPON REVIEW turned out to be illegal because it was advertising? What the hell is that? Why are you putting DQ holds on the problem??? Holy shit there should be nothing in reach that can get the climbers DQ'd, that is so obvious but they messed that up tool
@@r.b.4611 which competition is this from?
Goil.
Bullshit. Janja is the winner by countback.
terrible setting far too easy for janja and Jessica. If the best don't even get tested how can you call it a wc.
was it too easy though, al of the others climbers didnt get over hold 35, it is super hard for the routesetters to factor janja and jessi being this good. It is a bit stupid that the semi final was set too easy so time was a factor which is really boring.
as the matter of fact semis were the worst routsetting ever...
and if you think about this - setters are determine the sport atm
Many things can decide.
Comparing strong and weak points:
JP vs JG - similar endurance,
JG slightly better max strength,
JP less to lose (more likely to take a risk at the end),
JG slightly faster + knowing it (which caused here not to hurry at the end)
JP better climbing strategy applied - bigger risk at the end allowed her to win
@@michielvanheule9718 you can have many opinions on time factor in lead but it surely is not as boring as count back, which is the epitome of boring
Both of them should have gold. 5s should not mater, stupid rule.
J.P. -She have harry hands like man.. doping...???
Believe it or not, women actually grow hair on their limbs too!
LukeGoesOut hahaha yes they do but not like monky...😜🤭
Ciril Drofenik behave man
Haven't you ever seen a woman with arm hair? It's pretty normal in Austria at least.