Think your brown tinge might just be due to wood density difference within the maple, commonly causes blotching when finishing maple but looks amplified because your center squares are four pieces of maple put together from different areas.
Brown tinge is probably from the drum sander getting hot and slightly burning the maple. The burnt dust gets lodged in the fibers. I learned this also - but with darker tinges.
Nice work, well presented. Trouble is, I spent most of my time marvelling at how clean and tidy your workshop and tools are. How the heck do you do that?? Is it always like that?😵💫
After taking 2 of the angled cuts, what if you bring the table saw blade back up to 90° so you can save the material? Totally understand the safety you mentioned
Great video, it was very easy to follow & you did not over complicate the process. Thank you. It a simple design, with maximum effect. Think i'll have a crack at this.
Thanks CG. I jointer a 14” wide board last week and it was an incredible experience. It actually opens up so much more lumber for me since I have always been limited by my 8” jointer.
This is a great design - thanks. I tried it on a smaller scale first - milled up enough wood to do 4 "composite" pieces 24 inches long and 4 gave me 7 inches of width in the final board so I put another piece of wood on each side to bring it up to 12 inches final width just to test it out. Looks great. Now i've just milled enough wood to make 8 composite pieces 24 inches long so now I can have a complete diamond board without any filler at around 14 inches wide with a complete pattern. There is a lot of waste. I was keen to see what you did with yours. I'm thinking of gluing all the triangles together into squares then laminate together and make some kind of end grain board with it? There's probably some way to do a fancy pattern... but I just want to use it because it was all awesome wood. P.S. I turned my blade on the table saw back to 90 for the last two cuts like some commenters mentioned. Worked fine.
The brown tinge is likely from sanding of the mixed colors of wood. The dust gets mixed and can get into the different woods differently. The water from grain popping or the finish itself can pull into more into the wood grain, especially end grain. When finish is applied, the same darkening happens and it becomes a lot more noticeable. On mixed wood pieces with long stretches i’ve taken to careful sanding by hand to prevent this as much as possible, but it would be tough to do with the pattern here.
Hey mark! I also have noticed myself with using maple that it also does that. I have been told that it's the nature of the end grain of maple to get darker. I made several face grain boards with a hand cutout and matched a radius around the entire outside and it all darkened. I really did not like it. But I have sold a few! By the way nice board! And thanks for your donation for my wife!
Hey Paul. I have mixed feelings about it. It’s a great planer, but I have had a lot of trouble keeping the jointer calibrated and co-planer. If shop space is tight, it’s a good space-saving machine, but I wouldn’t buy mine again. I am also finding the beds quite short for jointing longer lumber. One thing I do love about it is the digital gauge on the planer. It’s very accurate and has been a huge upgrade from my old benchtop planer
I love this design... and just watched another video where the poster sprinkles salt on the glue of the final glue-up... gives just enough friction to prevent pieces from sliding as the clamps tighten
Very nice of you to share the dimensions and techniques. Thank you. So for the passes on the planer to bring the strips to square, you are planing off the 2 remaining peaks? It's hard to tell from the video. No planer issues with this? Never tried it...yet.
Yes, a few light passes to bring them into square. They are so small that it doesn't greatly impact the "peak" of each diamond. I hope this helps answer your question.
When you are gluing for alignment in the final glue up, add a few grains of salt or sand between blocks, these will press in against and cut in to each block so the glue won't let the wood slip out of place. Nice board design though.
I spent a bunch of time looking at this design, because it's beautiful. Regarding material use, even if you don't count the typical excess cutoffs and kerf widths lost with any cutting board build, this build (by design) "throws away" about 55% of what you create in your first glue-up -- granted some of it might be salvageable for another project (though what would that be...). By my calculation, at today's prices for S2S lumber, the raw materials for this board (assuming you start with thick stock and don't need to throw away even more for re-sawing or planing) would be about 2bf of Cherry (~$20) + 3bf Walnut (~$45) + 1.5bf Maple (~$18) = $83. When you take into account that most folks will be getting this in either 4/4 or 5/4 stock, and then cutting down to the required thicknesses, the cost is likely even more. Because you can only get a single 0.75 thickness from 5/4 lumber -- it's not even possible to get the 3/4 and the 1/2 of the walnut from a single 5/4 board due to kerf on re-saw (plus the needed planing to surface it), So I could actually see the material cost going well over $100 to build this, if not $120. Mind you, I'm not complaining :) I just wanted to share this in case others are thinking of the economics of building it, especially if their intention is to sell it (will be very hard to break even, I would think, when considering labor). I may still build it!
Really liked the design. I made it 5/8 and 3/8. Thinking I’ll make it again an 1/8 smaller. A lot more squares. Would actually save on waste as I have to resaw anyway. I used sapele instead of walnut. Thanks for the video.
Could it be that the maple has a sugar content in it that is reacting with the mineral oil? It could be the same reason that we see more burn marks when cutting maple when the heat from friction of the saw blade reacting to any sugar content still left in the wood.
Well deserved on 10k subs! I’m not sure why the maple always has the problem of darkening after the mineral oil but I always have the same issue. Give us an update when someone lets you know 🤙🏼
Beautiful board. Very likely that I will begin building it today. Question... what were your final dimensions, relative to width and length? I like my finished boards to end up approximately 12" x 18", and the thicker the better. When I get to the stage where I am slicing the sandwiched stock at a size that will determine final board thickness, I'll likely start at 2".
I have a few hardwood suppliers here in Houston that have a good selection (e.g. Houston Hardwoods, Clark’s), but they can be expensive. I would recommend checking Facebook marketplace to see if there are any smaller hardwood dealers in your area. Sometime you can get some good deals on hard woods. Just be sure that the wood has been properly dried before buying (wet lumber can take a long time to dry out before it’s ready to use).
I made an end grain board a few months ago out of maple, padauk, and purple heart. It seemed like the padauk kept "bleeding" into the maple. Maybe maple is just more susceptible to that?
Hey John, yes Padauk tends to do that. There are a few other species that also do that. There’s not a great way around that, but having good dust extraction on your sander and cleaning the surface of the board often can reduce these effects.
I’m guessing that because this is end grain, the wood will soak up more mineral oil and deeper into the fibers. The lighter color will appear to darken more than the already darker wood species…
I'm a bit late to the party, but hope you're still looking at comments... You started with the first glue up of 8 laminated pieces, but went to 7 squares for the second glue up. Wondering why you left out the last one. Love this design, but my OCD is killing me with the last section that is a triangle rather than a diamond.
Hey Mike, good catch. My son, who was four at the time, picked one piece up and dropped it and shattered it. It was a bummer for sure because it was damaged beyond repair.
I hope that isn’t discouraging. If it is, you should check out an older video… my shop has come a loooong way in the past 2 years. I started out with a dewalt job site table saw and a dewalt sander. What you’re seeing today is a far cry from where my journey began.
@Shotsmoky it was a legitimate question. Didn't intend on hurting your feelings. I'm looking for a tutorial from. Someone who doesn't have a cnc and every festool power tool.
Are you sure the planer accuracy is to "one hundredth of an inch" as you said? Doesn't sound all that impressive for a $9K tool. Website spec says to 1/10th of a millimeter (abt. 0.004").
The planer might be more accurate than that, but Felder’s imperial version of the digital gauge on the planer only provides measurements to the nearest 100th of an inch. They have a metric gauge that can measure 0.1mm, but I work in inches so I have imperial gauge. I hope that helps clear things up.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Once you made the 2 45 degree cuts, taking the blade back to 90 and put the 45 edges down should work for the remaining 2 cuts. Great work!
I came in the comment to make sure I wasn’t crazy and see if someone else posted this.
Si señor
I was going to say the same thing
me too
Beautiful boards, thanks for sharing!
Think your brown tinge might just be due to wood density difference within the maple, commonly causes blotching when finishing maple but looks amplified because your center squares are four pieces of maple put together from different areas.
Brown tinge is probably from the drum sander getting hot and slightly burning the maple. The burnt dust gets lodged in the fibers. I learned this also - but with darker tinges.
Nice work, well presented. Trouble is, I spent most of my time marvelling at how clean and tidy your workshop and tools are. How the heck do you do that?? Is it always like that?😵💫
Haha, yeah it actually is always that clean. I find that if I dont keep it clean, then I don't want to do any projects in the shop. 😄
After taking 2 of the angled cuts, what if you bring the table saw blade back up to 90° so you can save the material? Totally understand the safety you mentioned
Amazing board! Thanks for sharing 🙏🏼
Thanks Andy!
Great video, it was very easy to follow & you did not over complicate the process. Thank you. It a simple design, with maximum effect. Think i'll have a crack at this.
Thanks Andrew
Awesome, I am going to try this, this weekend. I have thought about different color combos as well. Great job.
Thanks Cecil! Good luck with your build.
Beautiful board and a stunning build video! Congrats on the new planer/joiner! ❤🎉
Thanks CG. I jointer a 14” wide board last week and it was an incredible experience. It actually opens up so much more lumber for me since I have always been limited by my 8” jointer.
This is a great design - thanks. I tried it on a smaller scale first - milled up enough wood to do 4 "composite" pieces 24 inches long and 4 gave me 7 inches of width in the final board so I put another piece of wood on each side to bring it up to 12 inches final width just to test it out. Looks great. Now i've just milled enough wood to make 8 composite pieces 24 inches long so now I can have a complete diamond board without any filler at around 14 inches wide with a complete pattern. There is a lot of waste. I was keen to see what you did with yours. I'm thinking of gluing all the triangles together into squares then laminate together and make some kind of end grain board with it? There's probably some way to do a fancy pattern... but I just want to use it because it was all awesome wood.
P.S. I turned my blade on the table saw back to 90 for the last two cuts like some commenters mentioned. Worked fine.
The brown tinge is likely from sanding of the mixed colors of wood. The dust gets mixed and can get into the different woods differently. The water from grain popping or the finish itself can pull into more into the wood grain, especially end grain. When finish is applied, the same darkening happens and it becomes a lot more noticeable. On mixed wood pieces with long stretches i’ve taken to careful sanding by hand to prevent this as much as possible, but it would be tough to do with the pattern here.
That makes sense - thanks for sharing Charles.
Hey mark! I also have noticed myself with using maple that it also does that. I have been told that it's the nature of the end grain of maple to get darker. I made several face grain boards with a hand cutout and matched a radius around the entire outside and it all darkened. I really did not like it. But I have sold a few! By the way nice board! And thanks for your donation for my wife!
@@LincolnWoodworks Thanks for the info. It's good to hear from you - I hope you and the family are doing well :)
Are you using hard or soft maple? I had the same problem using hard maple. Switched to soft and the problem went away. Much whiter and better grain.
@@tracynovak7433 I was using hard maple. Next time I will give the soft maple a shot. Thanks Tracy.
Are you still happy with your A341 Hammer? Love this design.
Hey Paul.
I have mixed feelings about it. It’s a great planer, but I have had a lot of trouble keeping the jointer calibrated and co-planer. If shop space is tight, it’s a good space-saving machine, but I wouldn’t buy mine again. I am also finding the beds quite short for jointing longer lumber.
One thing I do love about it is the digital gauge on the planer. It’s very accurate and has been a huge upgrade from my old benchtop planer
I love this design... and just watched another video where the poster sprinkles salt on the glue of the final glue-up... gives just enough friction to prevent pieces from sliding as the clamps tighten
Thanks Jason. A few have recently suggested that same idea so i will definitely be trying that on my next build. Thanks for the tip bud!
@@EigenDesigns What are the final dimensions of the board?
How much salt is recommended?
@@buddyhutchins3782 to taste.
- Beautifully done. Thanx 4 sharing.
Thank you :)
Very nice of you to share the dimensions and techniques. Thank you. So for the passes on the planer to bring the strips to square, you are planing off the 2 remaining peaks? It's hard to tell from the video. No planer issues with this? Never tried it...yet.
Yes, a few light passes to bring them into square. They are so small that it doesn't greatly impact the "peak" of each diamond. I hope this helps answer your question.
In my experience with running maple through my drum sander it seems to be burning of the wood that causes this
When you are gluing for alignment in the final glue up, add a few grains of salt or sand between blocks, these will press in against and cut in to each block so the glue won't let the wood slip out of place.
Nice board design though.
Great tip! Thank you.
Nice board and video! Why didn’t you finish the diamonds by taking the table saw blade back to 90 degrees?
I spent a bunch of time looking at this design, because it's beautiful. Regarding material use, even if you don't count the typical excess cutoffs and kerf widths lost with any cutting board build, this build (by design) "throws away" about 55% of what you create in your first glue-up -- granted some of it might be salvageable for another project (though what would that be...). By my calculation, at today's prices for S2S lumber, the raw materials for this board (assuming you start with thick stock and don't need to throw away even more for re-sawing or planing) would be about 2bf of Cherry (~$20) + 3bf Walnut (~$45) + 1.5bf Maple (~$18) = $83. When you take into account that most folks will be getting this in either 4/4 or 5/4 stock, and then cutting down to the required thicknesses, the cost is likely even more. Because you can only get a single 0.75 thickness from 5/4 lumber -- it's not even possible to get the 3/4 and the 1/2 of the walnut from a single 5/4 board due to kerf on re-saw (plus the needed planing to surface it), So I could actually see the material cost going well over $100 to build this, if not $120.
Mind you, I'm not complaining :) I just wanted to share this in case others are thinking of the economics of building it, especially if their intention is to sell it (will be very hard to break even, I would think, when considering labor). I may still build it!
Yep, that's true. But not much choice when you make a creative board like this. Still, I appreciate the cost analysis.
Thanks
Really liked the design. I made it 5/8 and 3/8. Thinking I’ll make it again an 1/8 smaller. A lot more squares. Would actually save on waste as I have to resaw anyway. I used sapele instead of walnut. Thanks for the video.
That sounds great. If you're on instagram you should post a picture and tag me so I can see what your project looks like.
Where do you get the wood from, I’m in Texas too? Just curious.
Could it be that the maple has a sugar content in it that is reacting with the mineral oil? It could be the same reason that we see more burn marks when cutting maple when the heat from friction of the saw blade reacting to any sugar content still left in the wood.
Nice shop upgrades! You definitely deserve it… 10k subs is a big deal👍👍👍. Nice cutting board design to my friend 😊
Thanks Logan. You've been with me from the start and I sincerely appreciate your support.
Well deserved on 10k subs! I’m not sure why the maple always has the problem of darkening after the mineral oil but I always have the same issue. Give us an update when someone lets you know 🤙🏼
Thanks Blake! If I find an answer I will let you know.
Great video awesome results will be trying this in my shop thanks
Thanks Chip! Good luck 😀
I think you could have saved the material if you adjust the table saw to 90 degrees again and used the last 45 degree cut as reference to the fence
Beautiful board. Very likely that I will begin building it today. Question... what were your final dimensions, relative to width and length? I like my finished boards to end up approximately 12" x 18", and the thicker the better. When I get to the stage where I am slicing the sandwiched stock at a size that will determine final board thickness, I'll likely start at 2".
The final dimensions for this was 19" x 11.5" x 1.75". Good luck in your build!
Very nice work. nice workshop.
@@hasmukhvpatel4539 thank you so much! I try to make my shop an inviting place to build things and to have family + friends enjoy it too.
wow amazing cuttingboard;-)well done🙂
Thanks Holger 😃
Can you share the project you do with the cutoffs?
What supplier do you use for wood? I too live in a Texas and have a hard time finding wood suppliers. Very nice board
I have a few hardwood suppliers here in Houston that have a good selection (e.g. Houston Hardwoods, Clark’s), but they can be expensive. I would recommend checking Facebook marketplace to see if there are any smaller hardwood dealers in your area. Sometime you can get some good deals on hard woods. Just be sure that the wood has been properly dried before buying (wet lumber can take a long time to dry out before it’s ready to use).
I made an end grain board a few months ago out of maple, padauk, and purple heart. It seemed like the padauk kept "bleeding" into the maple. Maybe maple is just more susceptible to that?
Hey John, yes Padauk tends to do that. There are a few other species that also do that. There’s not a great way around that, but having good dust extraction on your sander and cleaning the surface of the board often can reduce these effects.
Where did you get this planer/jointer? I cannot find an 1841 on the internet.
Thank you.
Don't know where you got that number from. Pretty sure it's a Hammer A341.
Excellent Build!!
What is the overall size of the finished board?
Hey Anthony, it was about 19"x12.5"
Really cool design. Pleasing to eyes to look at it the board
Thank you :)
@@EigenDesigns you’re welcome
Great looking board. What CNC do you use?
Hey Jim, I used a OneFinity CNC. I have really enjoyed mine so far.
couldn't you just use the new 45deg edge with the saw back at 90deg
Yes, you could. For some odd reason I couldn't seem to see that when I was making this board, but you're 100% correct.
During your glue up use table salt on the glue, it helps with alignment
You're the second person to suggest that to me. I am going to give that a shot.
Can you explain more how table salt helps with alignment?
Mate your brilliant. Subscriber now to your channel
Glad to have you 😊
Nice board. Try 100% tung oil sometime as a finish.
That’s a good idea, I will give it a shot. I used it recently to finish some furniture, but haven’t yet used it on a board. Is it food safe?
Great video
Your fellow Texas woodworker
Thank you Carl!
Great job now find a way for the diamonds to line up on the edges of the board as well
I have never seen a cutting board with so much waste. On the other hand it is beautiful.
Then watch someone make a chaos camo cutting board 😂
Estoy seguro de que el Sr. Eigen nos presentará muy pronto otra versión que utilice esos cortes impecables.
Beautiful board, doesn’t matter how much waste there is
Thanks Issac ❤️
What dust boot are you using?
It’s a PWNCNC dust collection boot. It’s been great so far.
Beautifully made and explained 👍
Can I know how cost the yellow clamps please
Parabéns pelo projeto ficou show
obrigado
Best way to start off a video is to have a pupper and wood 🤣
Right? What could better better than a puppy and some hardwood.
I’m guessing that because this is end grain, the wood will soak up more mineral oil and deeper into the fibers. The lighter color will appear to darken more than the already darker wood species…
I'm a bit late to the party, but hope you're still looking at comments... You started with the first glue up of 8 laminated pieces, but went to 7 squares for the second glue up. Wondering why you left out the last one. Love this design, but my OCD is killing me with the last section that is a triangle rather than a diamond.
Hey Mike, good catch. My son, who was four at the time, picked one piece up and dropped it and shattered it. It was a bummer for sure because it was damaged beyond repair.
Parabéns 🤝
I've found that maple tends to turn a bit yellow/brown after oiling too. I simply tell myself "It's wood, and I'm human"
Great advice Steve. Thanks for sharing.
Are there any woodworkers on RUclips that arent loaded with all the best top of the line tools?
I hope that isn’t discouraging. If it is, you should check out an older video… my shop has come a loooong way in the past 2 years. I started out with a dewalt job site table saw and a dewalt sander. What you’re seeing today is a far cry from where my journey began.
I will never understand the negative comments when someone has been able to purchase nice tools.
Envy I guess. Keep up the good work.
@Shotsmoky it was a legitimate question. Didn't intend on hurting your feelings. I'm looking for a tutorial from. Someone who doesn't have a cnc and every festool power tool.
Great looking board. Would love to know what you did with the cut offs? Hate waste
Everyone who has a shop outfitted like tis, raise your hand.
È così bello che lo appenderei alla parete come un quadro.
That's the ONLY way to make a juice groove. Not free-hand!
I agree :) 😃
That's cool
Are you sure the planer accuracy is to "one hundredth of an inch" as you said? Doesn't sound all that impressive for a $9K tool. Website spec says to 1/10th of a millimeter (abt. 0.004").
The planer might be more accurate than that, but Felder’s imperial version of the digital gauge on the planer only provides measurements to the nearest 100th of an inch. They have a metric gauge that can measure 0.1mm, but I work in inches so I have imperial gauge. I hope that helps clear things up.
👍👍👍