I asked you a similiar question months ago; breaking into the upper class through fashion. Galliano for example, his knowledge of history and fashion propelled him into this world of high taste and culture to where it seems like thats where he started from.
What you said about getting into fashion (and fashion journalism) is so important to me. It is hard to picture yourself in that space when you don't fit the archetype and you do have to take the long path but perseverance and work pays off. I'm still on my early steps as a fashion journalist but you find ways of going into the bussines. If you are starting to walk this path, don't get discouraged if you don't see yourself in those archetypes, instead focus on being diligent, persevere and perfect your craft.
You’d be surprised at how many people in managerial positions in the industry don’t know much about fashion. Worked in the luxury wholesale and buying sector so I was around people responsible for influencing global retail, and so many of them only have superficial knowledge of designers, brands, history and craft!!!
I'll argue that they were always the exception, not the rule. Outside of t-shirt brands, running a fashion label, even with the most bare-bones operations, can demand at least 30k-50k/year in USD/GBP/EUR. On top of that, it doesn't help that it can take several years for most operations to turn a profit. Lots of these working-class designers were lucky enough to catch the attention of a socialite who was eccentric to see the value in their work.
There is no money in fashion journalism unless you go b2b, theres money in writing b2b reports, press releases, etc, working for magazines (practically for free) is only good for your portfolio .
Very true but the magazines are very important help to build credibility - that's what you then use to transition into marketing, writing press releases, b2b reports, e-commerce writing etc.
To be honest our communities here in the States should get back to manufacturing high quality, diverse fashions. Working class gives fashion purpose. Otherwise it becomes too costume-y. Fashion is an art but the art should come naturally imo. Plus I love capitalism and I believe people are able to capitalize from their creative gifts, especially in fashion. Create pieces that last generations again, rather than the fast fashion for a quick buck. Barter with gold and silver even. Keep fashion down to earth and it’ll always sprout itself with beauty grace and appreciation.
But isn't it a bit of a paradox though to love capitalism and at the same time want clothing to last generations and not be about a quick buck? It's been a race to the bottom for the last forty years now.
@ I agree the economics are complex. We definitely are getting finessed right in front of our faces. Personally, I’ve been able to maintain a living with the assets that I’ve named. I live in a “small town” minded big city. Familiar faces, first name basis, and small business. I look around and believe that it’s definitely possible to create and maintain a small sized civilization by producing its own resources and being open to bartering, trading, and exchanging valuables for valuables. Become your own bank, hold valuable assets such as silver gold and/or BTC. Quit any complaining and find a way. There always is one. And if you haven’t already give the Lord a call, He is with us always.
In capitalism SIZE matters. A local shoemaker is not the same animal as Nike, even if both of them live under cápitalism. Sadly, this old "ethic cápitalism" cannot become a reality without tumbling down massive corporations. Calling for a "stoppage of complaining" and "holding gold and silver" is not a piece of advice majority of working class people, especially those in urban settings, can get into. Capitalism is killing the world and many outside the US and Europe. Other systems can exist. Feudalism once existed, capitalism will be under the same fate.
💯 I wrote kind of a similar comment on here, alot of Black Americans setting trends in the streets similar to the 90s now, because brands like Rick Owens and Balenciaga became lame costumes and lack creativity, people are wearing other higher high fashion brands with street clothes and styles, and I agree on capitalism if it benefits the public vs the corporations, the streets and public set trends, not an entertainer or company, and companies should've saw this coming before the price hikes, now they're stuck with clothes that's not selling, and playing musical chairs with the same designers, and not true creatives
I think one of the reasons working class people tend to make better art is that one of the main incentives for making art is to impress other people, whether that is romantically or to gain a wealthy patron. people who come from privilege are more likely to assume their life will be fine, but they'll be able to find a partner because of their status, etc.
The idea of a working class couturier is really funny to me. Fashion is such a bizarre constitution that even fashion designers don't always know if they are fashion designers. They need so much affirmation and courage to even approach it as a profession. RIP Alexander McQueen...he needed love the most.
Here in America, Black Americans been starting to set trends like the 90s again, designers like Rick Owens been played out, and some of the rappers and singers who are paying attention noticing the public aren't wearing it anymore, the streets dictate fashion and trends to leads to others, the stuff became lame and look like costumes, the same with Balenciaga you don't see people in it, some stars stylists are catching on as well, the public wearing high designers and street clothes mix together, designer shoes get more love than the designer fashion, tailoring and custom pieces are back popular, you see more women in Isabel Marant sneakers, timbs, New balance 990 or 993 versions, and different high fashion shoes or boots, dudes are wearing timbs, New balance 990 or 993 versions, some retro Jordans 80s and 90s Nikes, with regular Nike hoodies, high fashion, slick leathers, and 90s leathers like Vanson, Avirex, Pelle Pelle or plain
my favorite fashion designers are: Lee Alexander McQueen Vivienne Westwood Walter Van Beirendonck WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK Steven Stokey-Daley S.S. DALEY Thom Browne THOM BROWNE Olivier Roustieng BALMAIN Glenn Martens DIESEL Rick Owens RICK OWENS Chitose Abe SACAI Kuhiniko Morinaga ANREALAGE Ibrahim Kamara OFF-WHITE Simone Rocha SIMONE ROCHA Willy Chavarria WILLY CHAVARRIA Rei Kawakubo COMME DES GASÇON Iris Van Herpen IRIS VAN HERPEN Fernando Garcia & Laura Kim MONSE & OSCAR DE LA RENTA Jonathan Anderson JW ANDERSON & LOEWE Pieter Mulier ALAÏA Jun Takahashi UNDERCOVER Stefano Gallaci ANN DEMEULEMEESTER Piotrek Panszczyk AREA Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren VIKTOR & ROLF Victoria Beckham VICTORIA BECKHAM Jeremy Scott Everard Best & Téla D'Amore Best WHO DECIDES WAR Tamara Ralph TAMARA RALPH Maria Grazia Chiuri CHRISTIAN DIOR (womenswear) Fausto Puglisi ROBERTO CAVALLI Nicolas Ghesquière LOUIS VUITTON (womenswear) Kiko Kostadinov KIKO KOSTADINOV (menswear) Brandon Kee Maxwell Osborne ANONLYCHILD Charles Jeffrey CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY Anna Sui ANNA SUI Stella McCartney STELLA MCCARTNEY Karl Lagerfeld Emily Adams Bode Aujla BODE Antonio Marras ANTONIO MARRAS Shantall Lacayo SHANTALL Peter Pilloto
There are many examples I could’ve used which is an endless list. I just used a few names of designers that people would know to better illustrate my point. No matter who I mentioned there would still be 1000s of names I could’ve mentioned
From an objective pov you can’t say who’s the best designer because it’s all too vague. To just say people at big houses design the best in the world is a objective lie.
My point was about designers that have been the most influential - hence why a big example I used was Madeleine Vionnet because her Bias Cut techniques are used industry wide for example. Alexander McQueen changed the way people think about patterns, Cristobal Balenciaga changed the way people think about how garments are constructed etc. At the end of the day, it's just a discussion - I have multiple videos clearly stating there is no such thing as a greatest designer of all time but it is a lot easier to judge which designers have had a significant impact on design as a whole. Are there probably designers out there that are unknown with more skills than McQueen, Vionnet etc - probably, but they don't have the same impact because they unfortunately were not given a platform.
No trust me I love your social commentary on this subject but in America a lot of the designer influence you may speak of never trickeled down to the black community here as a whole. It’s literally no sauce in Beverly Hills or any aristocratic place
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I asked you a similiar question months ago; breaking into the upper class through fashion. Galliano for example, his knowledge of history and fashion propelled him into this world of high taste and culture to where it seems like thats where he started from.
What you said about getting into fashion (and fashion journalism) is so important to me. It is hard to picture yourself in that space when you don't fit the archetype and you do have to take the long path but perseverance and work pays off. I'm still on my early steps as a fashion journalist but you find ways of going into the bussines.
If you are starting to walk this path, don't get discouraged if you don't see yourself in those archetypes, instead focus on being diligent, persevere and perfect your craft.
You’d be surprised at how many people in managerial positions in the industry don’t know much about fashion. Worked in the luxury wholesale and buying sector so I was around people responsible for influencing global retail, and so many of them only have superficial knowledge of designers, brands, history and craft!!!
I'll argue that they were always the exception, not the rule.
Outside of t-shirt brands, running a fashion label, even with the most bare-bones operations, can demand at least 30k-50k/year in USD/GBP/EUR. On top of that, it doesn't help that it can take several years for most operations to turn a profit.
Lots of these working-class designers were lucky enough to catch the attention of a socialite who was eccentric to see the value in their work.
Or Coco Chanel who found a series of wealthy lovers :)
There is no money in fashion journalism unless you go b2b, theres money in writing b2b reports, press releases, etc, working for magazines (practically for free) is only good for your portfolio .
Very true but the magazines are very important help to build credibility - that's what you then use to transition into marketing, writing press releases, b2b reports, e-commerce writing etc.
To be honest our communities here in the States should get back to manufacturing high quality, diverse fashions. Working class gives fashion purpose. Otherwise it becomes too costume-y. Fashion is an art but the art should come naturally imo. Plus I love capitalism and I believe people are able to capitalize from their creative gifts, especially in fashion. Create pieces that last generations again, rather than the fast fashion for a quick buck. Barter with gold and silver even. Keep fashion down to earth and it’ll always sprout itself with beauty grace and appreciation.
But isn't it a bit of a paradox though to love capitalism and at the same time want clothing to last generations and not be about a quick buck? It's been a race to the bottom for the last forty years now.
@ I agree the economics are complex. We definitely are getting finessed right in front of our faces. Personally, I’ve been able to maintain a living with the assets that I’ve named. I live in a “small town” minded big city. Familiar faces, first name basis, and small business. I look around and believe that it’s definitely possible to create and maintain a small sized civilization by producing its own resources and being open to bartering, trading, and exchanging valuables for valuables. Become your own bank, hold valuable assets such as silver gold and/or BTC. Quit any complaining and find a way. There always is one. And if you haven’t already give the Lord a call, He is with us always.
In capitalism SIZE matters. A local shoemaker is not the same animal as Nike, even if both of them live under cápitalism. Sadly, this old "ethic cápitalism" cannot become a reality without tumbling down massive corporations. Calling for a "stoppage of complaining" and "holding gold and silver" is not a piece of advice majority of working class people, especially those in urban settings, can get into.
Capitalism is killing the world and many outside the US and Europe. Other systems can exist. Feudalism once existed, capitalism will be under the same fate.
💯 I wrote kind of a similar comment on here, alot of Black Americans setting trends in the streets similar to the 90s now, because brands like Rick Owens and Balenciaga became lame costumes and lack creativity, people are wearing other higher high fashion brands with street clothes and styles, and I agree on capitalism if it benefits the public vs the corporations, the streets and public set trends, not an entertainer or company, and companies should've saw this coming before the price hikes, now they're stuck with clothes that's not selling, and playing musical chairs with the same designers, and not true creatives
I think one of the reasons working class people tend to make better art is that one of the main incentives for making art is to impress other people, whether that is romantically or to gain a wealthy patron. people who come from privilege are more likely to assume their life will be fine, but they'll be able to find a partner because of their status, etc.
The idea of a working class couturier is really funny to me. Fashion is such a bizarre constitution that even fashion designers don't always know if they are fashion designers. They need so much affirmation and courage to even approach it as a profession. RIP Alexander McQueen...he needed love the most.
I think resourcefulness is a big reason working class people may have more creativity. You have to be creative to be resourceful.
Here in America, Black Americans been starting to set trends like the 90s again, designers like Rick Owens been played out, and some of the rappers and singers who are paying attention noticing the public aren't wearing it anymore, the streets dictate fashion and trends to leads to others, the stuff became lame and look like costumes, the same with Balenciaga you don't see people in it, some stars stylists are catching on as well, the public wearing high designers and street clothes mix together, designer shoes get more love than the designer fashion, tailoring and custom pieces are back popular, you see more women in Isabel Marant sneakers, timbs, New balance 990 or 993 versions, and different high fashion shoes or boots, dudes are wearing timbs, New balance 990 or 993 versions, some retro Jordans 80s and 90s Nikes, with regular Nike hoodies, high fashion, slick leathers, and 90s leathers like Vanson, Avirex, Pelle Pelle or plain
The most glaring counterexample to what you're saying is Yves Saint Laurent
Karl Lagerfeld
17+ minutes and not one mention of Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld
my favorite fashion designers are:
Lee Alexander McQueen
Vivienne Westwood
Walter Van Beirendonck WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK
Steven Stokey-Daley S.S. DALEY
Thom Browne THOM BROWNE
Olivier Roustieng BALMAIN
Glenn Martens DIESEL
Rick Owens RICK OWENS
Chitose Abe SACAI
Kuhiniko Morinaga ANREALAGE
Ibrahim Kamara OFF-WHITE
Simone Rocha SIMONE ROCHA
Willy Chavarria WILLY CHAVARRIA
Rei Kawakubo COMME DES GASÇON
Iris Van Herpen IRIS VAN HERPEN
Fernando Garcia & Laura Kim MONSE & OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Jonathan Anderson JW ANDERSON & LOEWE
Pieter Mulier ALAÏA
Jun Takahashi UNDERCOVER
Stefano Gallaci ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
Piotrek Panszczyk AREA
Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren VIKTOR & ROLF
Victoria Beckham VICTORIA BECKHAM
Jeremy Scott
Everard Best & Téla D'Amore Best WHO DECIDES WAR
Tamara Ralph TAMARA RALPH
Maria Grazia Chiuri CHRISTIAN DIOR (womenswear)
Fausto Puglisi ROBERTO CAVALLI
Nicolas Ghesquière LOUIS VUITTON (womenswear)
Kiko Kostadinov KIKO KOSTADINOV (menswear)
Brandon Kee
Maxwell Osborne ANONLYCHILD
Charles Jeffrey CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY
Anna Sui ANNA SUI
Stella McCartney STELLA MCCARTNEY
Karl Lagerfeld
Emily Adams Bode Aujla BODE
Antonio Marras ANTONIO MARRAS
Shantall Lacayo SHANTALL
Peter Pilloto
So everyone. You love everyone. It's okay, admit it 🤭🤭
Galliano and that Cartwheel hat on.
Halfway through and no mention of Stephen Burrows, Willi Smith, Andre Walker...
There are many examples I could’ve used which is an endless list. I just used a few names of designers that people would know to better illustrate my point. No matter who I mentioned there would still be 1000s of names I could’ve mentioned
8:50 is it just because of proportionality? More poor and middle class people than wealthy people?
just network with the rich people without yapping. There are always poor people to do the hard job for pennies.
From an objective pov you can’t say who’s the best designer because it’s all too vague. To just say people at big houses design the best in the world is a objective lie.
My point was about designers that have been the most influential - hence why a big example I used was Madeleine Vionnet because her Bias Cut techniques are used industry wide for example. Alexander McQueen changed the way people think about patterns, Cristobal Balenciaga changed the way people think about how garments are constructed etc.
At the end of the day, it's just a discussion - I have multiple videos clearly stating there is no such thing as a greatest designer of all time but it is a lot easier to judge which designers have had a significant impact on design as a whole. Are there probably designers out there that are unknown with more skills than McQueen, Vionnet etc - probably, but they don't have the same impact because they unfortunately were not given a platform.
No trust me I love your social commentary on this subject but in America a lot of the designer influence you may speak of never trickeled down to the black community here as a whole. It’s literally no sauce in Beverly Hills or any aristocratic place