When using a hole punch, you should use the end grain of the wood, I use a short peace of 2X4 about 1 " thick, this will give you a much better cut as well is a lot easer on your punch. I have a set I use for leather mostly and they are well over 40 years old and still very sharp. Never had to sharpen them. Thanks for the very good video will have to find the first one. I have a large amount of 444 brass, so is nice to know.
You can also use a deburring tool on a 44mag or .444 case to sharpen the edges and use that as a punch for making over-shot cards. Makes for a far better fit.
Oh man... You boys just made me and my boys so happy...I can shoot my 444 and now I finally have another use for the case...I cannot find any 410 shells at all, but boy do I have 444 Marlin. Thanks so much and Happy Thanksgiving.
You did a right Nice job on those .410 brass shells ! Glad I found you on this RUclips thing ! Look forward to seeing more of your Videos ! Take Care and and Be Safe
I would just put a drop or two of candle wax on top of the over shot wad. You want a thin over shot wad so it doesn't affect the shot pattern. Test on a soup can Three to five pellets is good enough shot density. How far away you can get 3-5 pellets is your maximum range. Penetration of the metal can is enough velocity. Use same paper wad over the powder but use 2 or 3. Might try a felt wad for cap & ball revolvers over the powder. John Davis jax fl
I use clear silicone caulk to seal the overshot cards. Works great and is waterproof. Just get a small squeeze tube of it, and it will last for many loadings.
Using leftover caulking works to seal and hold overshot but I get rubber cement and mix colored dye to code what type of load. Out in woods I load derringer with non lethal rounds just Incase of black bear or unforeseen situation where lethal isn’t necessary. Wisconsin has badgers that avoid people but accidentally come between her and her baby and you’d wish she were only a bear.
Howdy neighbor! Nice video, I was recently wondering how well a .45 LC or a .410 would cycle through a .454 lever gun but I think you've shown me the correct answer: if you want to save a dollar just reload!
The old timers used bees wax from candles or talo to seal the tops of their reloads...simple and easy to clean out of the barrel when the time comes. Talo is best since it lubes ur barrel during the firing process but bee wax is a bit sticky and can be removed with a little heat.
If that's the case they are using super glue you could water that stuff out dramatically with acetone and get the same result for less money invested in adhesive all you would need in the end was something that acetone would not dissolve and a glass eye dropper or something else that acetone will not to solve
I'll add a little advice on cutting your cardboard...First lightly sharpen your punch on a belt sander. (hold it about a 45 degree angle to your belt and very lightly touch to paper and rotate at the same time). Second use a plastic cutting board as your backing when you punch. If not plastic, use the end grain of a piece of hardwood. (Like a slice of a log). You will have a much cleaner, sharper cut.
I see a lot of people asking about wax to seal the shells. I've tried that and honesty it didn't work well for me. It has a tendency to shrink and it becomes kind of brittle when it dries. It can be kind of messy too. I have only tried paraffin wax, so maybe a different kind would work better.
That overshot card can not be 1/2 inch if it fits inside a .444 casing. I know the .45 colt case fits the .410 chamber, and the bullet is a damn tight fit through the barrel. .410 is a .41 cal bore. You can actually shoot the .444 Marlin through a .410 shotgun,, but it better have a beefy barrel. That's a lot of pressure there. If the .45 will go through, There should be no problem for the .444.
@@normankaster917 Yep, smooth bore barrels do not stabilize bullets. But if they have serious velocity it doesn't matter much. I shoot 45LC,44magnum and 444 marlin out of my smooth bore .410.The 45s and 44s are only predictable out to about100 feet, but the .444 marlin hits a 3 foot target at 50 yards every time. My homemade 400 grain slugs are nearly 1 inch long, hollow bottom, are more accurate yet.
I would use a card over the powder, then one or two felt wads for 44 black powder revolvers. Then a card, then shot. Then card over shot wad. Any kind of glue would work to seal the overshot card. Some dry faster than others
How about taking the barrel and let a gunsmith put very light rifling into the barrel and I guarantee you this should improve accuracy. And that would make a hell of a 454 monster for the money and I wonder if you guys would think about trying 4570 on a light round.
Sir I liked your video but would like to see how to do it if you do not have a loading station for shotgun loading and also your punch you are using for cutting over shot cards will last and keeps it edge if you get a piece of 2x4 or other size and use the end of the 2x4 to cut with, using what you are will dull the punch and could even damage it if it is real sharp. other wise great video.
Were is part 3? I can't find it. I had a 444 and let me tell you it's one hell of a brush rifle. I shot a buck in the neck and it came out of that assend of the buck about 3 inches above his tail. He just fell down and that was it.
i wonder. would it be a bad idea to take a flat bottom bullet and make it flush with the case ? and if some one has done that can some one drop me a link or something?
Thanks a million for the. 444 Marlin to. 410 shotshell series. I have fireformed. 303 British to .410 shotshell. I have trouble with some of them keeping the action from closing well. Do you have any of that sort of issues? Do you ever slim the rim?
This is ridiculous; you overloaded shot all 4 times, and arbitrarily shook some out. "About 3/16" from the top? You need to adjust your shot dispenser so that the right amount is dispensed, consistently. You are illustrating poor practice, with the result being shot-shot variation in pressure and in shot delivery. I appreciate that you are using .444 Marlin shells, but a nod to the fact that their capacity is less than that of .410 brass and plastic shells would be appropriate here, as would be a note on fireformed .303 British cases. I may sound strict on this, but reloading is no place for sloppiness, and variations in charge and in case capacity can be lethal to the inexperienced reloader.
One of the four filled "perfect" I would wounder why it filled different than the other three. It is amazing how many people reload and have no real concept of what they are doing.
George Steele it dose not have to be that exact it’s a 410 not a rifle. This guy has probably been doing this longer than you’ve been alive if you don’t like it just move along.
@@daneisenbrey9897 I doubt it - I'm 75 - and the reason I've made it this far is in part because I don't wing it when reloading like that. Yes, it's a .410, but would you load a charge in a rifle shell and then seat a bullet of arbitrary weight? Like substituting a 220 grain bullet for a 150 in a .30-06? The point is not whether or not a .410 would blow up; the point is that a video that treats charge weight or bullet weight casually is not a good, responsible model for new reloaders to emulate.
George Steele You’re not comparing apples to apples 410 cannot be compared to 30-06 your pressure differences are not even remotely the same a couple grains one way or another in shot load is not going to blow up. But I am not advocating to just wing it read the manuals look at the load data over the past 40 years like I have 20+ reloading books compare all the 410 look at all of the pressures look at your wads Along with all your other components and make your own decision I am not telling anybody what to do but if they look for themselves they can see.
It always perplexes me being a rifle reloader how shotgun people just throw their load by a pre-measured load by volume. In the rifle world we measure every charge by weight.
You and me both. I recently got into reloading pistol and rifle some time back and my grandfather brought me his old reloader from like the 60s and shotgun reloading stuff and I start reading load specs and I was like "what in the f**k is this?!" Through me through a loop 🤣
I reload both... And the charge by volume in the shotgun loads is possible because smoothbore stuf is so much more forgiving than the rifled stuff... Think of it like the blunderbuses of old times, you can even shoot sand, small rocks, nuts and bolts.... Even loading by volume with modern equipment is much more accurate a load than in old days...
I reloaded some of these for my grandson's 410(yildiz 410 single), but am having trouble getting them to ignite. only got 3 out of 40 to shoot. looks like the primer(large pistol) sets too far in the primer pocket. all i get is a small dimple(light strike) on the primer. I understand that the large rifle primers set a little higher in primer pocket. Do you think it would be a problem using large rifle primers instead of large pistol?
Well, I went through the laborsome process of unloading and depriving all my 444/410 marlin reloads and reloaded 5 test cases with the large rifle primers. all to no avail--same outcome. light dimple on primer with not ignition. They may work well in some guns with longer stroke on the firing pin, but my grandsons yildiz 410 will not shoot these cartridges. too much trouble to mess with. The mag tech brass hulls do shoot well in the gun. Good idea but a no-go on the 444 marlin cases.
ok I'm answering my own questions as I go. Im not one to give up easily. I took .015 off the face of the 444's with large rifle primer and tested the empty cases to see if they would fire. some did, most didn't . So went back to large pistol primers(shorter in height, but softer metal in primer and viola, success) . So conclusion to this problem for my shotgun and 444 cases was, .015 off face to case and large pistol primer. I'll pat myself on the back.lol
I had trouble getting shotgun primers to ignite in my Yildiz .410 single barrel. The problem was inconsistent seating. The primers needed to be well and firmly seated to get 100% reliability.
There's a guy in a video here on RUclips that tested some 12 Gauge to 22LR and 9mm adapters and he mentioned that his Yildiz 12 Gauge Single Shot had issues igniting primers while using the adapters while none of his other shotguns have a problem. I would honestly dump that gun and get him a quality 410 like a used H&R/NEF Pardner 410 and your problems will go away.
@@pacman10182 I've been trying to find brass 410 shotgun shells but it seems like every place that I look has them out of stock or they dont offer them. Maybe it's a seasonal thing.
a 444 marlin is the same outside as a 410 other than length. but the id is bigger. the 444 brass will last nearly forever as 410's whereas plastic 410 will last only 7-9 loadings. 303 british can be fireformed to use as 410 and 9.3x74 fireformen will be 3 inch length for more shot. take care.
Eddy I have a marlin 410 lever. i would to have some of the shoot shells and slugs from a 444 case. Would appreciate if you could contact me about where i can get those. thanks
Judge Cleveland Jr. - If you are running those through a lever gun, you will want to put a slight roll crimp on the end. And if you are doing that, the glue step isn't needed with a properly full case.
Now add 45 cal.Heavy Cast Bullets with a Rifled Barrel ? An for the big n bad ... Could even go 50 cal ??? Even 8 gauge industrial ??? Wasn't a 6 gauge industrial once available ?
The pressures are way lower in a 410 somewhere around 11000. The rim might be a little different so there might be feeding or extracting problems depending on the gun make a video
William, wax is good - depending on what type wax, intended use of shell, and storage. Paraffin wax (look in the canning section at wal-mart or also found in cake isle) is most common and easy to use. The method will be different (but faster than glue). Best practice is to make 2 or 3 seals with the wax - not all at once. Place enough to cover the "shot plug" and stop and let cool - not very long. If you are reloading a tray then by the time you get to the final round, you should be able to go back to the start and do the finish. Wax will shrink when it cools. So if you seal, let cool and return with a second or third "cap" it will fill the small voids created from the first layer of wax creating a better seal. Issue here in Texas is heat and that can cause issues with using wax. Either from storage (outside container reloading room such as in the video) or transportation/storage (in the truck) we can see temps well over 170. Melting point of paraffin is between 115 and 154F. Wax will also dry and crack if stored for extended periods of time, so you can see why he uses glue for his situation. Stored inside, used for winter hunts, used within a couple years - great cheaper option. Hope this helped.
James West did a series where he found an old 410 buried in the ground, cleaned it up and set about trying to destroy it by stuffing it with any ammo that would fit. 444 marlin went through fine. As far as I recall he never did succeed. IV8888 did a similar series, finally killing it with a 454 casull that was over loaded with the hottest powder he could find. The takeaway here is that a 410 single shot shotgun (assuming an appropriately beefy barrel) can digest anything that will fit in the chamber, within reasonable limits. Check out those two channels and watch their series on the 410. Its informative at the very least.
Fat Dude - No, no idea. They were white, and kind of looked like Winchester wads, but there are several white wads by different makers. I wouldn't worry too much. If they are too long easy enough to trim with an Xacto knife.
I couldnt understand a word with his mumbling , stumbling speech. Thats exactly how Jimmie Carter spoke when he was president....Get a grandson to narrate your technique !
I could be wrong but it from the length of the cup n over all wad size plus the style of the shock absorber (or whatever you wanna call it) I'm going to say a SG 410 by ballistic products or a variation of it also very common wad for .410
Andrew Morris - Hot glue and Elmers will work, but they are too pliable. It will hang together and cause a "hole" in the pattern. You want something that will crack under pressure such as the old water glass, or something that will "burn" or evaporate under heat such as Duco hobby cement. Most anything that holds will work, but I like to strive for "better" myself.
When using a hole punch, you should use the end grain of the wood, I use a short peace of 2X4 about 1 " thick, this will give you a much better cut as well is a lot easer on your punch. I have a set I use for leather mostly and they are well over 40 years old and still very sharp. Never had to sharpen them. Thanks for the very good video will have to find the first one. I have a large amount of 444 brass, so is nice to know.
You can also use a deburring tool on a 44mag or .444 case to sharpen the edges and use that as a punch for making over-shot cards. Makes for a far better fit.
That makes sense. Use the thing you want to fill to make the card, guarantees (minus operator error) a perfect fit. Noce
303 or
9.2x72r if you want 3 inch cases
Oh man... You boys just made me and my boys so happy...I can shoot my 444 and now I finally have another use for the case...I cannot find any 410 shells at all, but boy do I have 444 Marlin. Thanks so much and Happy Thanksgiving.
You did a right Nice job on those
.410 brass shells ! Glad I found you on this RUclips thing ! Look forward to seeing more of your Videos ! Take Care and and Be Safe
Thanks for postin ! I was thinkin I wanted brass shells for my 410. Now, I know how to get them ! Thanks Dad !
I would just put a drop or two of candle wax on top of the over shot wad.
You want a thin over shot wad so it doesn't affect the shot pattern.
Test on a soup can
Three to five pellets is good enough shot density. How far away you can get 3-5 pellets is your maximum range. Penetration of the metal can is enough velocity. Use same paper wad over the powder but use 2 or 3. Might try a felt wad for cap & ball revolvers over the powder.
John Davis jax fl
I use clear silicone caulk to seal the overshot cards. Works great and is waterproof. Just get a small squeeze tube of it, and it will last for many loadings.
That was a bit painful, but God Bless you Sir.
That's a heckuva loading bench there, buddy.
Awesome shop you have there. Thanks for the info.
Using leftover caulking works to seal and hold overshot but I get rubber cement and mix colored dye to code what type of load. Out in woods I load derringer with non lethal rounds just Incase of black bear or unforeseen situation where lethal isn’t necessary. Wisconsin has badgers that avoid people but accidentally come between her and her baby and you’d wish she were only a bear.
I’d love to see that part three and how these worked for you.
awesome video looking forward to part 3
Using a 300 win mag sizing die gives a nice roll crimp instead of having to glue.
Great video. Thx. May I ask what powder and shot charge you used? Have a great day.
Sorry, I do not own a 444 rifle, wish I did. I purchased these cases to use in my 410 shotgun.
If you use gorilla superglue as a sealer, you can sprinkle a little baking soda on it and it will set hard almost immediately.
Thanks, very interesting and informative!
Howdy neighbor!
Nice video, I was recently wondering how well a .45 LC or a .410 would cycle through a .454 lever gun but I think you've shown me the correct answer: if you want to save a dollar just reload!
The old timers used bees wax from candles or talo to seal the tops of their reloads...simple and easy to clean out of the barrel when the time comes. Talo is best since it lubes ur barrel during the firing process but bee wax is a bit sticky and can be removed with a little heat.
If all that glue gets past that overshot card, you'll have a pretty effective slug.
It shouldn't. It will just harden over top of the card
If that's the case they are using super glue you could water that stuff out dramatically with acetone and get the same result for less money invested in adhesive all you would need in the end was something that acetone would not dissolve and a glass eye dropper or something else that acetone will not to solve
I'll add a little advice on cutting your cardboard...First lightly sharpen your punch on a belt sander. (hold it about a 45 degree angle to your belt and very lightly touch to paper and rotate at the same time). Second use a plastic cutting board as your backing when you punch. If not plastic, use the end grain of a piece of hardwood. (Like a slice of a log). You will have a much cleaner, sharper cut.
I see a lot of people asking about wax to seal the shells. I've tried that and honesty it didn't work well for me. It has a tendency to shrink and it becomes kind of brittle when it dries. It can be kind of messy too. I have only tried paraffin wax, so maybe a different kind would work better.
interesting...nice reloading room👍. Thx
I will visit !!
Mighty fine job sir!👏🏻👍🏻🇺🇸
Hot glue seals overshot cards perfect, fast and cheap. Warm the stick with a lighter, dab on the top.
What primers? Large... What pistol? Rifle? Does it matter much?
Thanks for the video and Geaux Tigers!
Were is part 3 of this you shooting them??
Looked all through play list ant seeing it
Have you tried candlewax or beeswax to seal the shot card?
That overshot card can not be 1/2 inch if it fits inside a .444 casing. I know the .45 colt case fits the .410 chamber, and the bullet is a damn tight fit through the barrel. .410 is a .41 cal bore. You can actually shoot the .444 Marlin through a .410 shotgun,, but it better have a beefy barrel. That's a lot of pressure there. If the .45 will go through, There should be no problem for the .444.
I've done it... Couldn't hit a 4x8 sheet at 50 yards
@@normankaster917 Yep, smooth bore barrels do not stabilize bullets. But if they have serious velocity it doesn't matter much. I shoot 45LC,44magnum and 444 marlin out of my smooth bore .410.The 45s and 44s are only predictable out to about100 feet, but the .444 marlin hits a 3 foot target at 50 yards every time. My homemade 400 grain slugs are nearly 1 inch long, hollow bottom, are more accurate yet.
I would use a card over the powder, then one or two felt wads for 44 black powder revolvers. Then a card, then shot. Then card over shot wad.
Any kind of glue would work to seal the overshot card. Some dry faster than others
even Elmer's glue should work and no expansion of the glue.
Show us how you load 444 for your rifle .
What happened to part 3? You had my interest peaked.
Would love to come down and learn from this guy thanks for sharing this.
What is your charge for H110 for the load, please? Also, you can use Parrafin or beeswax for sealing overshot
You would just use one that is rec'd for most 3" 410 shells and the amount of shot you are going to use.
How about taking the barrel and let a gunsmith put very light rifling into the barrel and I guarantee you this should improve accuracy. And that would make a hell of a 454 monster for the money and I wonder if you guys would think about trying 4570 on a light round.
Where would I find load data for to use the 444 marlin brass as 410.
You didn't mention how much wad pressure you used.
Can one use petal wads in brass shotshells? I heard magtech brass for .410 is larger dia so does not work as well. Wonderimg how this works
You can cut the wads better on the end grain of a hard wood block.
I CAN NOT FIND ANY PART 3
I use Elmer's glue but use the same brass
you boys ever make a 45-70 foraging shot? for use in a trapdoor or lever gun? any thoughts or recommendations?
Sir I liked your video but would like to see how to do it if you do not have a loading station for shotgun loading and also your punch you are using for cutting over shot cards will last and keeps it edge if you get a piece of 2x4 or other size and use the end of the 2x4 to cut with, using what you are will dull the punch and could even damage it if it is real sharp. other wise great video.
Were is part 3? I can't find it. I had a 444 and let me tell you it's one hell of a brush rifle. I shot a buck in the neck and it came out of that assend of the buck about 3 inches above his tail. He just fell down and that was it.
can you use a .44 Cal gas check for an "over shot card"?
So, it takes no changing of the case itself? The 444 is essentially a 410?
You have to take the taper out and make it straight wall.
The Gorilla Glue is expensive. I'd use wax like in the old days.
will these feed thru an ar style 410?
I put my old punch in my drill press
i wonder. would it be a bad idea to take a flat bottom bullet and make it flush with the case ? and if some one has done that can some one drop me a link or something?
I found part 1. do you have to resize these cases at all?
Best using a wad punch on a block end grain on.
What was your powder charge? I'm assuming your using the H110 you have there
How do you use the brass and make .410 slugs?
Do those work in a 2.5 chamber only?
Thanks a million for the. 444 Marlin to. 410 shotshell series. I have fireformed. 303 British to .410 shotshell. I have trouble with some of them keeping the action from closing well. Do you have any of that sort of issues? Do you ever slim the rim?
Did you resolve this? I think the rims on the rifle brass need to be thinned from inside edge (opposite of headstamp side.
@@ericjones3146 I did not. I now use
.444 Marlin brass for "standard" (2.5") shotshells and 9.3mm × 74r brass for "3 inch magnum" shotshells.
@@michaelpriest6242 where do you get your 9.3x74r brass? Thanks in advance.
@@johnblood3731 I bought it on a website that specializes in auctions of sporting goods that empty brass.
Will these fit in a judge?
This is ridiculous; you overloaded shot all 4 times, and arbitrarily shook some out. "About 3/16" from the top? You need to adjust your shot dispenser so that the right amount is dispensed, consistently. You are illustrating poor practice, with the result being shot-shot variation in pressure and in shot delivery. I appreciate that you are using .444 Marlin shells, but a nod to the fact that their capacity is less than that of .410 brass and plastic shells would be appropriate here, as would be a note on fireformed .303 British cases. I may sound strict on this, but reloading is no place for sloppiness, and variations in charge and in case capacity can be lethal to the inexperienced reloader.
One of the four filled "perfect" I would wounder why it filled different than the other three. It is amazing how many people reload and have no real concept of what they are doing.
George Steele it dose not have to be that exact it’s a 410 not a rifle. This guy has probably been doing this longer than you’ve been alive if you don’t like it just move along.
Because it is a brass she'll the pressure is not as much of a concern as a plastic shell.
@@daneisenbrey9897 I doubt it - I'm 75 - and the reason I've made it this far is in part because I don't wing it when reloading like that. Yes, it's a .410, but would you load a charge in a rifle shell and then seat a bullet of arbitrary weight? Like substituting a 220 grain bullet for a 150 in a .30-06? The point is not whether or not a .410 would blow up; the point is that a video that treats charge weight or bullet weight casually is not a good, responsible model for new reloaders to emulate.
George Steele You’re not comparing apples to apples 410 cannot be compared to 30-06 your pressure differences are not even remotely the same a couple grains one way or another in shot load is not going to blow up.
But I am not advocating to just wing it read the manuals look at the load data over the past 40 years like I have 20+ reloading books compare all the 410 look at all of the pressures look at your wads Along with all your other components and make your own decision I am not telling anybody what to do but if they look for themselves they can see.
It always perplexes me being a rifle reloader how shotgun people just throw their load by a pre-measured load by volume.
In the rifle world we measure every charge by weight.
You and me both.
I recently got into reloading pistol and rifle some time back and my grandfather brought me his old reloader from like the 60s and shotgun reloading stuff and I start reading load specs and I was like "what in the f**k is this?!" Through me through a loop 🤣
I reload both... And the charge by volume in the shotgun loads is possible because smoothbore stuf is so much more forgiving than the rifled stuff... Think of it like the blunderbuses of old times, you can even shoot sand, small rocks, nuts and bolts.... Even loading by volume with modern equipment is much more accurate a load than in old days...
Gonna have to see if I still have my old Texan reloader, restore it, and make some dies for .410! I have a micrometer adjustable charge bar.
I reloaded some of these for my grandson's 410(yildiz 410 single), but am having trouble getting them to ignite. only got 3 out of 40 to shoot. looks like the primer(large pistol) sets too far in the primer pocket. all i get is a small dimple(light strike) on the primer. I understand that the large rifle primers set a little higher in primer pocket.
Do you think it would be a problem using large rifle primers instead of large pistol?
Well, I went through the laborsome process of unloading and depriving all my 444/410 marlin reloads and reloaded 5 test cases with the large rifle primers. all to no avail--same outcome. light dimple on primer with not ignition. They may work well in some guns with longer stroke on the firing pin, but my grandsons yildiz 410 will not shoot these cartridges. too much trouble to mess with. The mag tech brass hulls do shoot well in the gun. Good idea but a no-go on the 444 marlin cases.
ok I'm answering my own questions as I go. Im not one to give up easily. I took .015 off the face of the 444's with large rifle primer and tested the empty cases to see if they would fire. some did, most didn't . So went back to large pistol primers(shorter in height, but softer metal in primer and viola, success) . So conclusion to this problem for my shotgun and 444 cases was, .015 off face to case and large pistol primer. I'll pat myself on the back.lol
I had trouble getting shotgun primers to ignite in my Yildiz .410 single barrel. The problem was inconsistent seating. The primers needed to be well and firmly seated to get 100% reliability.
I have hate no troubles with magnum large rifle primers
There's a guy in a video here on RUclips that tested some 12 Gauge to 22LR and 9mm adapters and he mentioned that his Yildiz 12 Gauge Single Shot had issues igniting primers while using the adapters while none of his other shotguns have a problem. I would honestly dump that gun and get him a quality 410 like a used H&R/NEF Pardner 410 and your problems will go away.
mag tech 410 brass cases are cheaper than 444.
not any more
via midway:
magtech 410 hulls box of 25= $22..99 ($.92/round)
starline 444 marlin brass box of 20= $15.99 ($.80)
@@pacman10182 I've been trying to find brass 410 shotgun shells but it seems like every place that I look has them out of stock or they dont offer them. Maybe it's a seasonal thing.
@@tylerdixon3290 I think they're imported in large batches
@@tylerdixon3290 golden bear 410's can be drilled out for 209 primers
@@pacman10182 what do they use normally, large pistol primers? If that's the case I reload 45 colt so I have the large pistol primers on hand.
So where is the part that shows the conversion of 444 case to 410?
a 444 marlin is the same outside as a 410 other than length. but the id is bigger. the 444 brass will last nearly forever as 410's whereas plastic 410 will last only 7-9 loadings. 303 british can be fireformed to use as 410 and 9.3x74 fireformen will be 3 inch length for more shot. take care.
Can't you use a hot glue gun? It drys a lot quicker.
Eddy I have a marlin 410 lever. i would to have some of the shoot shells and slugs from a 444 case. Would appreciate if you could contact me about where i can get those. thanks
Judge Cleveland Jr. - If you are running those through a lever gun, you will want to put a slight roll crimp on the end. And if you are doing that, the glue step isn't needed with a properly full case.
Now add 45 cal.Heavy Cast Bullets with a Rifled Barrel ?
An for the big n bad ...
Could even go 50 cal ???
Even 8 gauge industrial ???
Wasn't a 6 gauge industrial once available ?
Héllo
H110 quelle dose..svp..??
Merci..
Would hot glue work as well?
Hot glue is what I use. Does just fine.
use wax
Me podría decir alguien que prensa o reborde adora para calibre 4 10 no se ninguna marca o referencia
i dont see part 1 do you have a link please
In five hours he can load a box of shells
almost $5 per hour. Not a shabby job if you ask the jobless masses after Corona nothing burger virus.
👍
Wouldnt wax work just as well?
I found wax too brittle
Wax is a process. Glue is in a tube.
are they dry yet?
Will the shotgun shells work on a marlin 444
The pressures are way lower in a 410 somewhere around 11000. The rim might be a little different so there might be feeding or extracting problems depending on the gun make a video
Is there any sizing that needs to be done?
No. You do not need to size. Part 3 is done. It should be uploaded soon.
What size shot are you using?
isn't wax good to use instead of glue ?
William, wax is good - depending on what type wax, intended use of shell, and storage. Paraffin wax (look in the canning section at wal-mart or also found in cake isle) is most common and easy to use. The method will be different (but faster than glue). Best practice is to make 2 or 3 seals with the wax - not all at once. Place enough to cover the "shot plug" and stop and let cool - not very long. If you are reloading a tray then by the time you get to the final round, you should be able to go back to the start and do the finish. Wax will shrink when it cools. So if you seal, let cool and return with a second or third "cap" it will fill the small voids created from the first layer of wax creating a better seal. Issue here in Texas is heat and that can cause issues with using wax. Either from storage (outside container reloading room such as in the video) or transportation/storage (in the truck) we can see temps well over 170. Melting point of paraffin is between 115 and 154F. Wax will also dry and crack if stored for extended periods of time, so you can see why he uses glue for his situation. Stored inside, used for winter hunts, used within a couple years - great cheaper option. Hope this helped.
@@texaschief8389 Thanks for the information. Keep up the good work..
sharpen that punch
there has just got to be a better way to load brass cases
I live In the same town lol
COOL,......
I used bees wax.
So could you fire a 444 out of a single shot.
Ray Morris No, the pressure would be too much!
James West did a series where he found an old 410 buried in the ground, cleaned it up and set about trying to destroy it by stuffing it with any ammo that would fit. 444 marlin went through fine. As far as I recall he never did succeed.
IV8888 did a similar series, finally killing it with a 454 casull that was over loaded with the hottest powder he could find.
The takeaway here is that a 410 single shot shotgun (assuming an appropriately beefy barrel) can digest anything that will fit in the chamber, within reasonable limits. Check out those two channels and watch their series on the 410. Its informative at the very least.
Anyone have any idea what wad he was using?
Fat Dude - No, no idea. They were white, and kind of looked like Winchester wads, but there are several white wads by different makers. I wouldn't worry too much. If they are too long easy enough to trim with an Xacto knife.
I couldnt understand a word with his mumbling , stumbling speech. Thats exactly how Jimmie Carter spoke when he was president....Get a grandson to narrate your technique !
I could be wrong but it from the length of the cup n over all wad size plus the style of the shock absorber (or whatever you wanna call it) I'm going to say a SG 410 by ballistic products or a variation of it also very common wad for .410
A 7/16 hole punch is more precise.
I find that Gorilla glue expands too much, better with an epoxy.
hot glue works good for sealing over shot cards
Andrew Morris - Hot glue and Elmers will work, but they are too pliable. It will hang together and cause a "hole" in the pattern. You want something that will crack under pressure such as the old water glass, or something that will "burn" or evaporate under heat such as Duco hobby cement. Most anything that holds will work, but I like to strive for "better" myself.
Wow new reloaders DO NOT follow this guy he is an accident waiting to happen disregard his flippiant attitude towards loads and powder volumes DAMN!
‘7
I agree with the others really poor pratices snd shody work i wouldnt shoot anything he reloaded
Ll
I’m so dreadfully sorry to seem so rude, but this is probably the worst reloading video I’ve ever seen on the internet.
you lost me at the beginning then you said youtubers . Thumb's down . never will watch a video that calls a person a ----------------- .
How about youtubinian?
You need New equipment