2014 SUBARU FORESTER REAR WHEEL BEARING HUB REPLACEMENT
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- Опубликовано: 21 мар 2017
- BEWARE If you live in an environment where the roads are salted, the rust in this area could amplify this job into a near impossible repair. The hub tends to weld itself to the backplate and spindle area and might require extreme techniques not shown here to break it loose. However under normal conditions without rust the repair would be as the video describes.
This video was taken using a 2014 Subaru Forester with complete hub rear wheel bearings. The basic instructions probably apply to any late model Subaru with rear wheel bearing hubs. Without any previous experience on this job, it looks us under a half hour per side using professional level shop tools. The video focuses on the removal of the wheel bearing hub, but the installation is just the reverse of the removal.
This is just about the easiest rear wheel bearing we have ever replaced on a Subaru Forester. It was a little disappointing that the bearings, both sides, went out a little before 50,000 miles. The diagnosis was done by the local Subaru dealership.
Because this is a complete hub with the bearing prepressed into it, there was no need to take off the entire spindle and work with a big shop press.
This video assumes that you have a working knowledge of basic tools and you practice safe repair procedures like jack stands, safety goggles, and etc.
The maker of this video is not responsible in any way for your decision to proceed with this repair assessing your own skills.
If you have rust, rain, salt...don't even think it's gonna be this easy. This is pure fantasy that it just falls out like this ''tap tap tap''. I POUNDED mine 'till the flange was beaten out of shape. (57k mile car. I tried heat, the slide hammer just yanked the inner part of the bearing out of the housing. I tried pounding in wedges against the knuckle and housing. UPDATE: It finally came out. I dropped the lower control arm (1 bolt). Bought 2 LONG bolts with same thread as the short factory bolts. I screwed them in on opposing corners from the backside. They are long enough to clear the CV boot. Then I beat them senseless from the backside. After 10 mins of beating, then removing the bolts and alternating corners, it FINALLY came out just enough I could see a tiny separation. Then soak with penetrant, let sit, repeat. About 15 more mins of pounding and it came out. Clean all the old surfaces to fresh metal. Smear everything with anti-sieze and reinstall. Reassembly start to finish was 10 mins. If the hub had come out with a tap tap tap, the job is 30 mins start to finish. If you live in the real world outside of the salt and water-free west coast, it's hours.
Not a chance anyone is getting this done with just a tap. If it comes out without hours of banging they're the luckiest person on planet Earth
I'm doing another one tomorrow on opposite side of same vehicle. Pure fantasy is right! If you have a helper I remove the wheel and undimple the spindle nut cover and have brakes applied so I can break loose the nut first! I make sure the spindle shaft is able to slide ( install nut & tap toward center of vehicle with hammer gently)and what I did do was put the 4 hub bolts back in and then used an air hammer with blunt chisel to push on them from the back to get the unit to break free of housing. I also sprayed with PB blaster. They do not come apart as easily as this video showed! I also use carefully a propane torch to help expand things.(removing good rotor) Anti seize is the bomb on all things mechanical! Your description is very accurate especially today with aluminum assy's housing steel components!
For those of us who live in places where the roads are salted like New England, it may be impossible to get the old rusted on hub assembly out on your own. In this case you will have to remove the entire knuckle that houses the bearing assembly, take it to a shop where it can be cut out with a torch. I used every hammer and a 10 ton press cutting it out was the only way. By the way, don't replace with a MOOG hub assembly. Mine failed within a couple of months.
Never ever use MOOG for anything.
i agree let them come up to the rust blet state and try and unbolt and tap it out they get mad and walk away from it and go back down where there cars dont have rust lol
I replaced my 2016 Crosstrek rears with MOOG 😢
@@msgmayjingur Moog bearings still holding up?
I always thought Moog was a good brand... Replaced my van's front ball joints with Moog "Problem Solvers" and I'll be damned if they aren't already cracked and leaking less than two years later.
Why doesn't anyone address this is a widespread and regular problem (bad wheel bearings, prematurily wearing out) with Subaru's?
According to the Subaru maintenance manual for my Forester, the proper torque for the rear axle nut is 177 newton-meters or 140.1 foot-pounds not 177 foot-pounds. Something tells me this vehicle has had its rear hub assemblies changed before. The driver’s side on mine took 35 minutes to remove the hub assembly while the passenger’s side took FIVE DAYS due to corrosion. I reassembled both using nickel based anti-seize compound.
One of the best & easiest rear hub & bearing replacement for Subaru . Another Legend on RUclips
Excellent video for those who have mechanical knowledge. Well done!
Thanks for the quick video. Seems like a very simple job. I was dreading it. Not so much now.
Thats the best video i ve watched so far in regards to replacing the ball bearing.
Direct ,clear and straight forward.
Thank you much appreciated
I read the description in this video, and I realize that the maker notes that this was an unusually easy one to do, but that being said, I had to beat the ever-living piss out of the one I did. No "tap... Tap... Tap..." Like he did. Mine wasn't rusty either. It was on a 2015.
I had to remove the emergency brake components and cable, screw the bolts in far enough to use all of the threads, put it in the concrete floor, bolt heads down, and used an old half-inch extension to pound the dust plate off of the bearing assembly. Just be careful to only hit right near the bearing bolts so that you don't bend up the plate.
How-to videos like this one should show the difficult parts, not just make it look like things just fall apart with a simple tap or two.
You are exactly right.
I watched this video Friday night. It's now Monday, and I haven't moved the hub an inch. Now towing it to a garage. Please watch other videos, but still they don't do it justice. I have air tools, welder, & experience building rat rods. Need to have it pressed out. My Lawrd, don't make my mistake. (I'm up in Maine) - This might work in Arizona...
Not their job to show every contingency. Besides, they were pretty clear up front that rust could make the job much more difficult.
I have now done 2 of these and each was very difficult. The first one was rusty, the second was on my wife's Crosstrek that was less than a year old with absolutely no rust.
Thank you for this awesome video. I was apprehensive about it now I'm ready to go!
You’re video helped me a ton! To save more time I used a hub wheel bearing remover I was able to bang on it with a heavy hammer and loosen it quickly. Did the job in about an hour for my second time.
Now that was a great video! Very helpful! Thank You!
For anyone watching this thinking it will be this easy when you do it, YOU'RE DREAMING. After hours of beating on the hub assembly you'll wish you had just taken it to a shop. But if you're like me you're gonna go head and try it anyway. This comment will run through your head
BANG,BANG Slide hammer method : 2014 Subaru Forester. Replaced both rears, one at 125000 and the other at 130000 miles. Michigen salt. Attach slide hammer to hub. If you are lucky the whole assembly comes out. I was not. Hub separated from main bearing carrier (MBC). Removed brake components. First one: Banged with hammer on MBC. It started to separate from from back plate. and started turning to the point where I could press it off with the bolts from the back plate. 2 hours. The second one would not separate from back plate after deforming it considerably... Attached slide hammer with M12x125 bolt to MBC. After the MBC and back plate started separating from suspension carrier enough to slide a piece of sheet metal between them, I was able to push off the MBC and back plate with the M12x1.25 screws. Not easy, but it worked. 6 hours. Just be aware, that the MBC can separate from back plate and suspension or it comes out most of the time together with the back plate. Don't forget to use penetrating oil. If you have time, let it work for a while. It makes it much easier. Good luck.
Really great video-
I used to a slide hammer to remove the hub. Of course the bearing broke, so the bearing housing stayed behind -- it was rusted to the knuckle. What I did was screw in the 4 bolts from the front part way in and used a long punch -- about 10 inches long and a 10 pound sledge hammer and hit the ends of the bolts from the inside. Also used some heat and penitrant from the front. It did come off. I used a cheap shop press and a bearing remover to separate the remnants of the bearing from the hub. Put the hub in the freezer for a few hours and it will press on to the bearing much easier
Just replaced one of mine today @ a little over 72,000 miles, I had more trouble getting the rotor to let loose than the hub. Thanks for the how to.
there is hole in the rotor that if you find the correct screw and screw it in it will make the process much easier
Next time, soak rotor-hub interface with penetrating lube. Then get a coupe short bolts with same thread as the bolts that hold the rotor to the hub. Screw them in and that will pull the rotor free.
Yep just did this last night on a '15 model in Wisconsin. What a nightmare! Ended up using an angle grinder on the old hub assembly to make space for a pry bar!
Just did it tonight in Ohio. 7 hours of heat, soak, beat and repeat. Never again.
Great video. I will be doing this job on my XT this weekend.
Success?
Yeah, the RR on my 2013 went at just over 100k, so no warranty and a bill for $875. That was over a year ago and I still listen every day for the sound of the next one to go.
For anyone living in the Midwest, every time he says "lightly" replace with the word "excessively".
I live in Massachusetts, and I had to destroy the hub to get it off. I am so tired from hammering, I need a nap.
hi thanks for the video. Is it the same for a Forester XS 2004 ? thanks
is a 2011 legacy a similar process? was thinking about using a jaw puller and a torque wrench to get the axle and the hub to separate
Curious to know why you had changed it out. I had an issue last year where I can get a really bad vibration over 70 miles an hour so I had my rear hubs replaced and fixed the issue for about a year and now I’m experiencing it again. Did you have that same issue?
I live in one of those rust areas you mention in the description. It took me almost 8 hours to replace one of my rear wheel bearings. It was so seized in the hub, the bearing actually came apart. The only way I could get the outer race freed from the hub was to weld a bead around the inside and quench it and by doing that it sucked the race in a freed it up. It was a major P.I.A.
Mine did too
Yup, that's what happens when you put too much pressure on the flange, the bearing comes apart and now you have a flange and inner bearing race and the housing shell and outer race and balls are still stuck in the knuckle.
Man I live in Ohio and just did this on my wife’s 130k forester. Fuckin nightmare. Pulled the inner hub out of one side trying to free it with a slide hammer an the other side trying the bolt and nut through the lug hole trick. Then about 7 hrs of heat and beat and soak and repeat, after removing the emergency brake hardware, to get the base off. My ears are gonna ring for days and my arms are jelly from swing a sledge for hours. This video is hilariously inaccurate if you live in the north.
Good luck.
"Tap tap tap" Lucky you. I live in Wisconsin. No "Tap tap tap" for me. :( More like "BANG BANG BANG"
you got it!!!
Yeah. Also from wisconsin. This video should be listed under comedy. My dad counted 97 whacks with a 16lb sledgehammer when I did his a month ago. With a hub shocker.
@@owenaue1096 Same here, forester from NY and been living in NB, Canada. Brutally difficult to get that hub assembly off, backplate welded to it with rust as well.
@@douglasmunn30, I'm telling you: buy or make a hub buster. It gets the job done and quickly. It's the best way to remove these frozen solid Subaru wheel bearings.
@@Drewg351Thanks! didn't know these existed. Just watched a video and they look pretty simple. Adds lots of leverage to that hub assembly.
Just did it here in Ohio. Had pull the knuckle and use a shop press (and get a new backing plate cause it bent on the press).
PITA
And now! It's throwing an ABS light. Got a new WSS and cleared the light--but now ABS deploys constantly.
Anyone know if the metal ring on the end of the axle is part of the ABS system? Or is the tone ring internal to the bearing?
Do you have part numbers or where to get the replacement parts other than the dealer.
What kind of floor Jack is THAT! I want a magic floor Jack too. Do you twist the handle to make it go up? I’m seriously wanting that!
Is ther a torque spec for the bearing to knuckle bolts?
Klasse
Just did one on my wife 2013 Legacy. I was force to take it out with the axle after slide hammer did not break it through (rear driver side) and had to use a 50 ton press (our shop 20 ton press did not work) with allot of heat to break it through. Gave up on the other side. Manage to break a ABS sensor while pulling the axle out :(. The mileage of the vehicle was around 115k. Spent couple of years. The vehicle was in South Florida area and then moved to the Washington D.C. area. For the people up in the colder states and Canada, etc. I feel very bad for you if you have to do this job.
What's the size on that axel nut?
What size is that axel nut
Too bad the front bearing doesnt come out that easy. I am assuming the Outback is the same? I hope so!
6:30 I think the torque spec on those 4 bolts is 48 ft-lbs.
or 4 tappy taps?
Whoops, I should have read the comments prior to using a slide hammer to rip my axle out and break my ABS sensor. Tap, tap, tap did not work, nor did bash, bash, bash. I could not put my wheel back on, had to pay for a special tow @ $325. My sensor replacement will be $250. The shop used an air hammer and had the hub off in seconds. Lesson learned!
Working off just the floor jack right on wtf
how much for the parts and how much for the labor?
What is the socket size for the rear axle nut? 32mm? I didn’t see you mention this in the video. Thanks.
Yep, it's a 32mm all around. Be sure to dimple it after torquing to 140 ft-lbs., which you do after getting it just past finger tight and setting the car back down.
What is a sign that they need to be replaced? I have a 2015 outback with 63k and hear a grinding sound when rolling. Brakes are fine and transmission does not appear to have issues.
a new and growing humming sound from one of the corners of the car only when rolling. Generally gets louder the faster you drive. If it gets really bad which takes a long time, it will sound like an airplane roar
Thanks for the video , what size is the axle nut ?
32mm
My Forester has 80,000 miles on it and I just had the hubs replaced TWICE, the first time at 60+ thousand! Subaru must have some problems with these. Previously I had a Honda CRV which I traded for it with 240,000 miles which had never had ANY work necessary at the dealership.
what year forester?
Subarus are notorious for wheel bearing issues. Some models/years are better than others. Replaced wheel bearing a couple times in her first Forester (2001 model). The current one is a 2013 with only 85,000 miles are both rear bearings/hub assemblies have been replaced. Too bad my wife likes her SECOND Subaru Forester - repairs are a real pain as a whole. The rear two spark plugs are a "joy" as well. . .
yup. I had a 1999 Honda Civic which didn't need bearings until 364k, a 1998 Toyota Avalon at 256k which never needed bearings, a 1998 Honda Civic with 254k which never needed bearings and a 2009 Honda Fit at 288k and never need bearings. The 99 civic, Honda fit and 98 civic all drove dirt road/city delivery miles for a year or two
Subaru bearings are absolute junk.
Is the process for changing the front bearings similar?
As long as the bearing is sold as a complete hub, it should be very similar. Good luck.
You must be in California.
Question : if you accidentally cross-thread one of the 5 nuts to one of the threaded rods , can you just replace that rod alone ???
Yes, find a video on rethreading or replacing a lug stud.
It seems most people comment on the “tap tap tap” method as not working. Before I tackle this, is there a reason not to loosen the four mounting bolts and then tap the bearing housing outward on those?
**3 years from the future** you can try and that is one way folks get them off however if you've got a real stuck on assembly, it won't be enough.
It will destroy the bolts and most hubs don’t come with new ones
Did the abs sensor need to be removed from the knuckle before removing the wheel bearing assembly
Although we did not remove the abs sensor, if you have any doubt, it would always be safer to take it out to avoid damaging the sensor
I would definitely remove the speed sensor. It’s just one 10mm bolt. and say you do break one they go for almost $150 at dealer
Does this procedure apply to a 2014 Subaru Outback?
It should be.
i hammerd mine so much that the hub allmost came off i gave up bc its hard where i live i cant work on my stuff i cheat small and easy stuff like oil changes spark plugs coils
Do you know which year Subaru switched to these hub/bearings? Nice video, one thing I'd like to see is a jack stand in use.
jack stands are always advised. If you google your year and model and wheel bearing, a picture will likely show up with either a press type bearing or a full hub set up.
Full hub setup like these started in 2010 I believe. 2009 and older were press-in style from what I've seen.
i think around 8 or 9
Was this a local car or one that had lived on the mainland?
Solid vid. I typically remove the the ABS Sensir to avoid damage, however I may leave it in after watching. Did you replace the axle nut with new?
We only change if it comes with the kit.
Deff a good idea to remove that sensor, i forgot and snapped mine lol
Should always add a new axle nut. They get torques to a high amount and the nuts can lose their elasticity over time. It's a cheap $4 bit of insurance.
I own two, 2016 Foresters. Bought the same day, from the same dealer. One had to have the left rear bearing hub replaced at 38K, and the other had to be replaced at 62K - different mileage but both within 6 months of each other.
Seems to be an issue for this model...
Any chance there was a recall for 2014-16 models on this? I can't find one but have been hearing about more than a few Foresters with this issue...which is not common??
14 FXT: Replaced mine four years ago prob 60k miles with Timkens….huge pain in the ass had to beat the shit out of them with heavy hammer. 92k and they need it again! Hopefully will be easier to remove this time. Quoted $745 per hub at dealer. Might try OEM hubs
Will the front bearing fit the rear? Are they interchangeable?
no theyre different
very nice. I don't know if I'd jack it up via the rear diff though. they are pretty brittle.?
Please make your own appropriately safe choices. It has never been a problem for us, Aloha
Cory Boyd Nope. I'm pretty sure both my repair manual and the actual car's manual recommends jacking up by the rear diff.
Those pinch welds are way too weak to lift an AWD subbie.
In the future publish list of tools and sizes of sockets and etc, grease used, jack stands and safety gear always. torques for all bolts including bearing nut listed. remember your audience and the skill level required. Thanks its all in the delivery and video use more then one camera to get the other angles
I’m guessing you live in a dry climate because anywhere with snow this is a battle to the death
I empathize with you. Winter snow and salt can turn this job into the worst nightmare.
What size socket did you use for the axel nut?
Sorry, just pulled it out of the tool box to match.
32mm
A 1.25 inch works as well.
Where can I get that ratchet? :D
Why no anti=seize on the wheel lugs?
We don't have the issues with salt in Hawaii that you have where they salt the roads. Use anti-seize . It never hurts.
@@keyele Also, any time you have a critical torque setting, you cannot get an accurate torque on dry bolts. Even with a blind hole, the anti-seize won't cause a hydraulic lock unless you way overdo it and it drips off the end of the bolt filling the hole. The excess will just migrate up the threads and need wiped off. Wheel studs should always be anti-seized just for torque purposes.
Hi. Did you replace with OEM hub or aftermarket one?
aftermarket. the original did not last long at all
keyele which aftermarket do you mind I’m asking? Thank you.
@@hcyybyq, go with SKF wheel bearings. BEST warranty in the business. 42 months. Better than Moog (36K miles), better than Timken (12K miles). Those Swedes make quality shit. Best part: price. SKF bearing at Rock Auto is less than Moog ($145.00), about the same price as Timken ($100.00).
Sorry I meant to say 78,000 miles
Took my 2014 XT Turbo to Colonial Subaru Near Petersburg VA and they diagnosed both rear wheel bearings needed replacing with 7800 miles on the car. They quoted me $986 which I think is a total rip-off. I can buy the OEM parts for $252 and save myself over $700 if I do it myself, even if I have to buy a large socket.
how did that work out for you? The rear bearings are a pain, I can imagine paying someone $200 in labor to just do it in a couple hours. Shops always have access to a ton of tools most of us dont. I ended up buying $150 in tools for this job anyway, but only $130 for the pair of bearings
haha he said lighty tap it out😂
The hand brake needs to be off to get the bearing out!!!
Like you don't want the brake engaged or you need to take the brake shoes out?
First of all, jesus christ, use some jack stands.
Just had to replace one of these on a traded in vehicle.. I'm a Honda tech. Took me 3 hours to replace, ended up removing the rear axle, using the OTC hub grappler tool and milwaukee high torque impact gun (the 1000ftlb one), combined with hits to the bearing itself with a 5lb sledge from a coworker. Would not try this at home under any circumstances, and if you have a choice, wouldn't recommend doing it at work either. Maybe just fake illness for an afternoon.
Keep in mind, this was after I had heated with oxy/acetylene for a few minutes and then tried to air chisel said bearing out. At least the control arms come loose easily.
I hear ya re: the lack of jack stands. Scary to watch.
I hear ya, I had to do both rear bearings on my wife's 2014 yesterday. I made my own "Hub buster" tool that bolts to the lug nuts and 3' of C channel welded to it. Then hit it with a sledge. Brutal job. I think I may have beat the rear right out of alignment.
I appreciate the video I do but this is very atypical removal and quite misleading in the ease of removal.
I stated exactly the same thing. "15 minute job" my fukin ass !!!! I've seen guys spend half a day trying to get one bearing out. These SUCK!!!!
This is why i love working on subarus easy to work on! Engine wise a little complicated
You've got to be kidding. Getting these bearings out is a major pain in the ass. They NEVER come out this easily by just a few blows with the hammer. This car must've been in Arizona or something. No way is it a New England or Northern state car that sees tons of rain, snow, and salt.
subaru has the absolute worst rear bearing design, if youtube still showed dislikes i bet you'd have like 21
"Be sure they're very tight".... NO. there is torque numbers in the service manual to which you should tighten them... for not to put them too tight.
"Be Aware" The hub assembly is not going to come out with the "tap, tap, tap" method. If you use a "slide hammer" your more likely to pull the spindle out of the hub assembly. That thing is really stuck. A hub buster as shown in other videos may work or be prepared to remove the whole knuckle to use a press. And, hey Subaru, these things failing @ 70k, is BS.
For those many of you who live in areas where the roads are salted in the winter, this job can be much much much more difficult from the rust that binds pieces together that wouldn't normally be stuck.
My 2016 XV failed at 24k.
my rears died at 95 kilometers
What??? Does that guy think we are all a joke to him? Tap, Tap, Tap. Do you think we came here to watch this video, because we stopped midway through tap #1???
Tap, tap, tap, my ass! You living in Arizona? Lol, just did a Crosstrek! 5 lb. sledge 20 minutes! Parts and bearings flying after 10 minutes
Duralast, Moog, OEM...???
Since the OEM didn't last all that long, I would go with anything that is convenient to your area.
OEM went 100,000 miles. I wasn't sure if that was good for a bearing. My research showed the duralast failing after 3000 miles. Great video.
Ended up with the OEM. Never had more trouble getting a hub off. The bear separated in the mount. Needed a torch and a full size sledge.
@@adambrown5726 yes my mechanic had a similar experience today. OEM labor 500 bucks. It was a bitch to take off.
For subi.. use OEM
15 minutes. Not in Ohio or anywhere near the rust belt. Lol
Yep! I'm in Western NY. What a pain in the ass. lol Took me all afternoon to break that damn thing loose.
Didn't tighten up on those wheel lugs, whoops..
Who else had to pull back the knuckle and beat it out from the inside!
Me!
Yep
What is depicted in this video is atypical of replacement of a Subaru rear bearing and hub which has failed under normal driving conditions. Perhaps the relatively low mileage failure was a contributing factor but it is far more likely that it will be necessary to remove the knuckle and either pound the bearing out from behind or take it to a shop and have it pressed out. The "tap, tap, tap ..." approach shown here is not likely to be effective on the average failed bearing.
Earlier Subaru bearings did require removing the knuckle and using a machine press, but these newer bearings are complete hubs that are cheaper and faster to replace.
Thanks for the reply on this with clarification!
@@keyele bruh he knows that, he's saying north of Virginia, 90% of the time subaru's are garbage to own because of crap like this
Day 12: Axle nut is still stuck....
someone help me
Several possibilities, Leave the emergency brake on with the tire on the ground and use a big breaker bar with the socket. Or carefully heat up the axle nut until it expands enough to come loose. Or a heavier duty 3/4 drive impact gun. Or penetrating oil or diesel fuel can sometimes soak in there for a few hours and help with the process. Good luck.
@@keyele I ended up putting everything back together, save the center cap, and put the car back on the ground, blocked the wheels in place, and forged out a 1/2in. drive to go into the socket. I made the bar 3ft. long and it still took 4 people to finally break it. 2 people turning the bar and 2 people counter pushing the car. I dont even know how it got that stuck lol
The way this dude tapping the wheel bearing is pissing me off
Every other video I've watched showed hours of hammering, prying, and cursing trying to get these bearings out. You must be in Arizona with zero rain, salt, or rust.
I’m in Ohio and I just changed mine. Car was in Cincinnati for the majority of its life. I’ve had it in northern Ohio for 3 years. Came off with a slide hammer and some soft persuasion.
@@deepinmind83, most won't come off with a "slide hammer". All a slide hammer does is splits the bearing and than you're in even worse shape because now you have only the inner half of the bearing still frozen on with alot less to work with. That's exactly what happened to mine. There's a video here on RUclips where a guy shows exactly this happening using a slide hammer.
Honestly, using a "hub breaker" is the BEST WAY to remove these stubborn Subaru wheel bearings. My driver's rear is on its way out and I just received a new SKF bearing from Rock Auto on Friday. Maybe I'll make a video on it. I can change it easily in 40 minutes using the hub buster tool.
@@Drewg351 huh. I just looked that tool up and it’s really impressive. I’ll look for one next time I need to change a bearing. Thanks!
Differential is NOT a jacking point! Also that tire is rubbing on the door. No jack stands, Recipe for disaster!
The manual says you're wrong
Bologna, tap tap my ass. 🤬
Hell no they do not come out that easy in the rust belt 15 min my ass and the park brake shoes will be rusted as well and all need replaced
So why didn't you just change the car to a brand new model and put the original wing mirrors on it ?, why change the whole damn hub when you could have pressed the bearing out and changed the bearing which was shot like real mechanics do and not the entire hub. Too little tools ?, too little knowledge ?, Too little mechanical experience ? more dollars than sense ? OR just the 21st century snow flake generation way of doing things, oh the toe is infected so cut off the whole leg and throw it away. Sorry but you were soft on the job the parts you discarded were ok the guts were what needed changing not the hub.
Glen, I would be happy to watch video of you changing only bearing and not damaging the ABS sensor.
I understand what you're saying, but in the pro world the cost of a whole new hub is far less than the labor to change out an old style pressed-in wheel bearing. When manufacturers recognized that pro shops were opting for the whole thing, the supply chain reacted and stopped stocking the old style parts. If you want to do it that way, you'll have trouble finding the correct parts. From the perspective of the store, it costs money to keep things that aren't sold very often on the shelf. The same thing happened to wiper blades, it is cheaper to swap out the whole arm. I have a hub buster tool set, complete with oxyacetylene torch and shop press. Honestly I'm only a little sad that I don't often have to reach for those things. Pressed in wheel bearings were a pain, and it took skill to avoid scoring the shaft. Even so, it's nice to know that I'll rarely be skunked if the bearing is seized to the knuckle.
Working off just the floor jack right on wtf
It's always a good idea to read the description before you tackle a job.
This video assumes that you have a working knowledge of basic tools and you practice safe repair procedures like jack stands, safety goggles, and etc.