exactly and never use an impact wrench to tighten up the lug nuts as they also have a torque spec, that is the biggest mistake most mechanics do, Tighten to a particular point with the impact gun then finish off with the torque wrench. ALWAYS.
Wish I would have found this video before the other one I watched. I shredded part of the boot and now have to take apart more to replace my axle boot. Thank you for the very informative video.
I just changed the wheel hub bearing on my daughter's Impreza. Not really a tough job. Thanks for the video that let me know it was not that hard to do!
George, this video is fantastic, step by step, and your explanations of each step were perfect, I have already replaced brake rotors and calipers, so this is an easy job. I have been getting noise just like you describe, from about 40mph and above, looks like the same side too. Thanks so much for posting!!
Yes, especially if you have to use a hub buster or equivalent. Found this out the hard way when I destroyed my sensor while separating the hub from the knuckle.
Thanks man for the vid. My family and I are on a tight budget, so anytime we can do something on our own it is very helpful. It's funny how much you can learn when you need to. Very educational video and I think my young boys and myself can tackle this project with your great instructions. Something tells me my local shop was going to be charging a little to much. As they wanted 500 dollars to do this. So it seems like you saved us a great deal. Thank you.
If my 2016 WRX is like this then I can do this job. I thought it was a press bearing so I was kinda dreading it, but this it totally doable. Great tutorial!
Good video, only suggestion would be use lock-tite either blue or red on your hub bolts and caliper mounting bolts and torque to manufacturers spec and this would be a “perfect” video!
Gotta do this and brake on my 2018 Crosstrek. Real quick question. I know a wheel bearing is going bad, I get the growl coming from the front at 40mph and above. Is it possible to differentiate which side is going bad? It sounds like the RF.
7:22 Oooh, never pound on bare axle end like that with a steel hammer, as it *can* mushroom out the metal, making it nearly impossible to reengage the axle shaft nut. Alternative: Use a large punch held against the axle center, and tap the punch. Or, temporarily mount the axle nut itself until flush with the axle end, then gently tap until things move freely. Protect those threads!
For a free factory service manual go to jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ It will have all the tightening torques you need. Just navigate to your vehicle through the website.
4agte16 that’s exactly why I like to do my own work on a car if I have the tools to do it. Impact gun on a wheel hub nut you have no clue what sort of torque you are putting on the bearing. Of all components this is one to torque or at least hand tight with socket and wrench.
@@paddyirskman2447 YES...after watching the way things are done over the years and struggling with a total lack of care for vehicles by dealerships, inflating prices, intentionally overtightening lug nuts, oil filters, drain plugs, damage due to carelessness or even ignorance, and then charging for the repairs for damage done by the techs, WHO NEEDS THE HASSLES
@@4agte16 Makes sense. Overtightening virtually guarantees that the new bearing will wear prematurely due to overheating, so win-win for the dealership. $$$
Looking to replace a front wheel bearing on a '19 crosstrek. I have an account with a dealer delling aftermarket. They are high quality but is there a way to tell if the magnetic strip will allow my ABS to function or not?
Basically a good tutorial as far as it goes BUT, VERY IMPORTANTLY, you didn't ex[plain or torque down your different bolts to the required specific torque specs. The most important is setting the correct torque for your wheel bearing nut (the one that you replaced). That one needs a very high torque setting and if you don't tighten it down enough you'll cause big , big problems and even expensive damage to your new hub & bearing assembly, your brakes and even your front suspension. You should NEVERT just tighten it by feel!. For that matter, any fastener that has a required torque spec should be tightened to that spec. The manufacturer sets those specific specs for a reason.
@@phizz8694 You need that spec. for your specific model vehicle. It could be anywhere from about 160 to 180 ft/lbs or maybe even more! DO NOT GUESS or assume that the highest is better than nothing. I would NOT go by what a RUclips video tells you UNLESS it is a video by someone like MrSubaru who has a RUclips channel and he has a video showing him doing that repair on your exact car model. There are a lot of these types of videos posted on RUclips by people that, to an inexperienced "Do It Yourselfer", look like the person doing the video knows what he's doing but either they don't know what they're doing or they leave necessary information out which is exactly the problem with this video. Using correct torque specifications is VERY important. MrSubaru is a certified Subaru mechanic who does great repair videos and while he doesn't have the time to answer specific questions like yours, he does give the torque requirements for each nut and bolt on the specific vehicle in each video. A good and inexpensive resource for those who want to do their own repairs is a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual for your model vehicle. It will give you the manufacturers recommended torque specs for each fastener. Get one of those repair manuals. They are worth every cent and they're not expensive. Ebay or Amazon has them.
must be nice when they come apart so easily lolol for some reason everyone i get in the shop its always fighting. IDK if youre located in the rust belt, but if you have any tips to getting seized hubs separated please share
mix 50:50 acetone and ATF in a bottle, and use that as a penetrant. Works way better than anything you can buy, including kroil. There must be some environmental reason that it can't be sold, maybe due to the acetone. Many tests have been done and its the best.
105K miles on my 2014 Crosstrek , it has noisy rear bearings now. Should I go for OEM replacement Bearing/Hubs (1 year Warranty) or aftermarket Duralast (Lifetime warranty)?
George I need your assistance, I have a 2008 yaris and I changed transmission fluid and filter and did 2 drain and fills to get as much trans out then filled it and checked it and now I notice when I drive and let my foot off the pedal at 40 mph I notice a slightly breaking after my foot let go off gas and it last for only 5 to 10 seconds then back to normal and ideas what it is?
Great video. I do have a question. What happens if the old wheel bearing won't come off because it's stuck because of rust. Any tips or leverage to take it off? Thanks 🙏
Crap tons of penetrating oil. Do it once a week for about a month before even trying. I live in central NY where everything is rusted. The hardest part will be saving the backing plate
I used this video (thank you) to swap a front hub assembly last week, and I will soon do the rear. Where might I find the tool you used to unlock the axle nut?
My 2013 XV hub was so rusted after 1 hour of beating the crap out of the hub trying to loosen it, I gave up and took a chance on a Craigslist mechanic. After an hour of banging he took apart the whole wheel assembly out so he can beat on it from the back. It took him total of 3 hours to complete the job. I gave him more than the $125/hub he quoted me. I don't know what is wrong with Subaru's engineers as their wheel hubs have had a history of going bad quick. Mine also went out at around 65k miles.
Mike H. I used a non-OEM bearing hoping it will last. Then there is the issue with bad struts in the rear. I am replacing them with Rallitek springs and Bilstein shocks. The rear is bouncing all over the place when hitting a bump.
For the sake of redundancy, tightening requires torquing to a range lbs ft or Neuton meters. If you can afford an impact wrench, you can afford a torque wrench. Just treat your torque wrench like a precision instrument, don't drop it or toss it around like a crowbar and it should remain calibrated. I know all about that "calibrated elbow"
I have to replace the front, passenger hub assembly in my 2008 Impreza and I'm having a hard time finding the part number and OEM brand. Would appreciate any assistance! And thanks for the video, I'll be using it once I find the part!
@@jonlon7488 I found it on Amazon and everything worked out great. Not too difficult to replace either. It was about $125 and this is the item description: "SUBARU 28373FG000 Hub Complete Front Axle"
I've had to replace 3 so far, My mechanic just let me know that there is a bulletin (search "Bulletin Number: 05-70-19") where the backing plate is uneven and caused my bearing to go early. Might be something to replace.
Spent 12 hours yesterday trying to separate the rust welded bearing on my friends car. Literally tried everything. Im about to go back over so we can replace the whole assembly because we could not separate it.
I have a bad wheel bearing on my WRX and the shop is saying it’s going to cost 1300. This seems insanely expensive , gotta know if I’m getting ripped off or not
Late I know, but it sounds too high. I just did my 2014 Forester Rear Driver side and it took 3 hours going very slowly. Maybe a two hour job at shop. No rust here in Southern CA so that helped. If rusted on the bearing could be a nightmare. BTW the axle nut and bolts should be Torqued.
@@jima3129 Hi, I replaced my 2014 Subaru Crosstrek wheel bearing ( left front ) then I did test drive. Looks everything okey after that ABS light traction control and hill assist light on. Also Engine light on to engine code is p0500 ABS code is C1222 I changed wheel bearing again ( moog brand ) nothing happen then I changed ABS sensor still same... I didn't figure out ! Do you have any idea ? thank you
You don’t recommend after market shell bearings however Subaru can’t seem to make one that lasts more than 10,000 miles. I recommend you don’t waste your money on OEM crap that won’t last and just get the cheaper aftermarket one.
So the title has front wheel bearing...but you're replacing the rear in the video along with the link to a rear wheel assembly. Is there a video for the front one?
Never put a bearing back on with an impact wrench, use a torque wrench. The axle nut has a specific torque.
How tight?
@@nathanallen9303 it can be looked up on the internet
@@nathanallen9303 Hub bolts 65Nm, axle nut 220Nm
That bearing is toast. Do the job right with oem he says lol
exactly and never use an impact wrench to tighten up the lug nuts as they also have a torque spec, that is the biggest mistake most mechanics do, Tighten to a particular point with the impact gun then finish off with the torque wrench. ALWAYS.
Les Schwab tried to do mine for 600+ after they changed the axle. Gonna just order one and do it on my own. Thanks for the video.
Wish I would have found this video before the other one I watched. I shredded part of the boot and now have to take apart more to replace my axle boot. Thank you for the very informative video.
It would never come out that easy in Wisconsin or any other salt belt state
This is how you do a ‘How to...’
Awesome job, thanks!
FINALLY, someone who realizes you don't need to take off the brake calipers separately, just the whole bracket as one piece!
I just changed the wheel hub bearing on my daughter's Impreza. Not really a tough job. Thanks for the video that let me know it was not that hard to do!
It's always a good idea to clean the mating surfaces and apply some antiseize to help with part alignment and any future removal.
George, this video is fantastic, step by step, and your explanations of each step were perfect, I have already replaced brake rotors and calipers, so this is an easy job. I have been getting noise just like you describe, from about 40mph and above, looks like the same side too. Thanks so much for posting!!
I'd recommend removing the ABS sensor to avoid breaking it, especially if you're in the rust belt.
It is a good idea but you must be very careful removing this expensive part.
Yes, especially if you have to use a hub buster or equivalent. Found this out the hard way when I destroyed my sensor while separating the hub from the knuckle.
Thanks man for the vid. My family and I are on a tight budget, so anytime we can do something on our own it is very helpful. It's funny how much you can learn when you need to. Very educational video and I think my young boys and myself can tackle this project with your great instructions. Something tells me my local shop was going to be charging a little to much. As they wanted 500 dollars to do this. So it seems like you saved us a great deal. Thank you.
If my 2016 WRX is like this then I can do this job. I thought it was a press bearing so I was kinda dreading it, but this it totally doable. Great tutorial!
Great video! Very helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to make this video for us DIYers.
Clear and to the point. Thank you !
Great video! Done this a few times on other vehicles but not on my CV Crosstrek yet.
Great video!! Its only lacking the torque spec for each bolt.
Good video, only suggestion would be use lock-tite either blue or red on your hub bolts and caliper mounting bolts and torque to manufacturers spec and this would be a “perfect” video!
Just did my 2005 Outback, exactly the same procedure, probably the same part! Looks identical.
Nice video, when I do this job I always make sure the speed sensor does not get damaged and I also clean all the rust of the hub
Thanks for a very good video on this project.
Great job thanks for the info.
Gotta do this and brake on my 2018 Crosstrek. Real quick question. I know a wheel bearing is going bad, I get the growl coming from the front at 40mph and above. Is it possible to differentiate which side is going bad? It sounds like the RF.
No grease on the splines? Thanks for the video.
Kick ass video! Straight forward and no bs! Thank you. Subbed and liked 👍
7:22 Oooh, never pound on bare axle end like that with a steel hammer, as it *can* mushroom out the metal, making it nearly impossible to reengage the axle shaft nut. Alternative: Use a large punch held against the axle center, and tap the punch. Or, temporarily mount the axle nut itself until flush with the axle end, then gently tap until things move freely. Protect those threads!
Thank you for the excellent video! You have inspired me to give this a go myself instead of taking it to the dealership.
🙋🏽♂️ Do you know if the size 32 socket for the axle nut is the same for my 2014 Crosstrek?
Most likely- wife's 17 forester was 32 - assuming my impreza will also be a 32 hahahah
Excellent video, thanks
What do you need to torque the (4)14 mm bolts that hold the wheel hub assembly to?
Good video but the axle nut should be tightened down with a torque wrench.
No mention of torque spec for axle nut and wheel nuts?
For a free factory service manual go to jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/
It will have all the tightening torques you need. Just navigate to your vehicle through the website.
I worked in a Toyota dealer for 6 years no one ever torqued an axle nut. Impact gun for everything. Time is money in the auto mechanic field.
4agte16 that’s exactly why I like to do my own work on a car if I have the tools to do it. Impact gun on a wheel hub nut you have no clue what sort of torque you are putting on the bearing. Of all components this is one to torque or at least hand tight with socket and wrench.
@@paddyirskman2447 YES...after watching the way things are done over the years and struggling with a total lack of care for vehicles by dealerships, inflating prices, intentionally overtightening lug nuts, oil filters, drain plugs, damage due to carelessness or even ignorance, and then charging for the repairs for damage done by the techs, WHO NEEDS THE HASSLES
@@4agte16 Makes sense. Overtightening virtually guarantees that the new bearing will wear prematurely due to overheating, so win-win for the dealership. $$$
So would it still need an alignment even tho the strut didn’t need to come off?
What torque setting was that on the drive shaft ???
Must be wonderful to live in a place, where massive corrosion isn't an issue.
9:49....Your Subaru will thank you :)
Thanks Mr. OEM Subaru for the video good angel record n detail
Is it similar to replace with 2006 WRX TR?
Very helpful video.! is it the same for the rear? You don’t need to use a slide hammer to take off the hub? Thanks
Looking to replace a front wheel bearing on a '19 crosstrek. I have an account with a dealer delling aftermarket. They are high quality but is there a way to tell if the magnetic strip will allow my ABS to function or not?
would 13-14 crosstrek front wheel bearing work on a 2005 inpreza
Anyone know the torque specs on axle bolt and the 4 mounting bolts for hub assembly?
Great video. Thnx
Wondering where you are located. Sure isn't in the northeast. Nothing comes apart that easy when it is rusty
No need to torque the Axle Nut? Or is just good and tight?
thank you very nice video !!
EXCELLENT,THANKS
Great video!!! Thanks
Basically a good tutorial as far as it goes BUT, VERY IMPORTANTLY, you didn't ex[plain or torque down your different bolts to the required specific torque specs.
The most important is setting the correct torque for your wheel bearing nut (the one that you replaced). That one needs a very high torque setting and if you don't tighten it down enough you'll cause big , big problems and even expensive damage to your new hub & bearing assembly, your brakes and even your front suspension.
You should NEVERT just tighten it by feel!. For that matter, any fastener that has a required torque spec should be tightened to that spec. The manufacturer sets those specific specs for a reason.
I came here to try and find out the torque spec for the bolts that holds the hub bearing. Would you know?
@@phizz8694 You need that spec. for your specific model vehicle. It could be anywhere from about 160 to 180 ft/lbs or maybe even more! DO NOT GUESS or assume that the highest is better than nothing.
I would NOT go by what a RUclips video tells you UNLESS it is a video by someone like MrSubaru who has a RUclips channel and he has a video showing him doing that repair on your exact car model.
There are a lot of these types of videos posted on RUclips by people that, to an inexperienced "Do It Yourselfer", look like the person doing the video knows what he's doing but either they don't know what they're doing or they leave necessary information out which is exactly the problem with this video.
Using correct torque specifications is VERY important.
MrSubaru is a certified Subaru mechanic who does great repair videos and while he doesn't have the time to answer specific questions like yours, he does give the torque requirements for each nut and bolt on the specific vehicle in each video.
A good and inexpensive resource for those who want to do their own repairs is a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual for your model vehicle. It will give you the manufacturers recommended torque specs for each fastener.
Get one of those repair manuals. They are worth every cent and they're not expensive.
Ebay or Amazon has them.
@@phizz8694 The 4 hub bolts 65Nm
Axle nut 220Nm
2 caliper bracket bolts 80Nm
George this was a great how to video but I only saw you hand tighten the 4 hub bolts... I hope you impacted them tight before you went down the road!!
Dont worry it was all done. There is allot of stuff happening behind the scenes
Can't you add grease to the bearing eventhough its sealed.
How many miles you recommend to replace it. Mine has 133k. No noise. But I don’t want to wait.
Just got a quote today for this job on a 2012 Impreza... $550 at the dealer. DIY and save $400!
Nice. Absolutely agree with using an oem hub bearing. Do you have to peen the axle nut after torquing? It’s like 180 ft/lbs?
must be nice when they come apart so easily lolol for some reason everyone i get in the shop its always fighting. IDK if youre located in the rust belt, but if you have any tips to getting seized hubs separated please share
mix 50:50 acetone and ATF in a bottle, and use that as a penetrant. Works way better than anything you can buy, including kroil. There must be some environmental reason that it can't be sold, maybe due to the acetone. Many tests have been done and its the best.
I feel your pain. Nothing on a car should stay together when it's hit with an 8lbs sledge hamme, but here I am writing this comment.
I used an air chisel
Awesome thank you.
Thanks for the video, very well detailed explained.
I AGREE - THANK YOU VERY MUCH - A REAL PRO
Thanks for the video. Unfortunately I have to have Subaru replace a bearing for me, not sure what that will cost.... here in England, 1.5 hours ?
All clean like that and no rust...what took you so long? ; ) I got one here in upstate NY with almost 200,000 miles on it..wanna give that a go?
super nice video,were I can found the hook
How many miles is recommended to replace? Mine has 133k. No noise. But I don’t want to wait.
105K miles on my 2014 Crosstrek , it has noisy rear bearings now. Should I go for OEM replacement Bearing/Hubs (1 year Warranty) or aftermarket Duralast (Lifetime warranty)?
I would go with oem
George I need your assistance, I have a 2008 yaris and I changed transmission fluid and filter and did 2 drain and fills to get as much trans out then filled it and checked it and now I notice when I drive and let my foot off the pedal at 40 mph I notice a slightly breaking after my foot let go off gas and it last for only 5 to 10 seconds then back to normal and ideas what it is?
Great video. I do have a question. What happens if the old wheel bearing won't come off because it's stuck because of rust. Any tips or leverage to take it off? Thanks 🙏
Crap tons of penetrating oil. Do it once a week for about a month before even trying. I live in central NY where everything is rusted. The hardest part will be saving the backing plate
I used this video (thank you) to swap a front hub assembly last week, and I will soon do the rear. Where might I find the tool you used to unlock the axle nut?
It’s just a impact wrench with a 32mm/1.5in socket. You can find cheap impacts at pretty much any hardware or automotive store you go to
Will the vehicle need an alignment after this repair?
Not unless you remove the tie rod ends. Which you won't need to
Can I just replace the bearing ? Instead of the whole hub?
Are you kidding me? That looks like a brand new car. Around here (Wisconsin) be prepared to spend a lot of time & effort getting the old hub out...
TRUE
I been using a maul for two days on my imprezza it feels like its welded on!@@lawrencegaudette4747
My 2013 XV hub was so rusted after 1 hour of beating the crap out of the hub trying to loosen it, I gave up and took a chance on a Craigslist mechanic. After an hour of banging he took apart the whole wheel assembly out so he can beat on it from the back. It took him total of 3 hours to complete the job. I gave him more than the $125/hub he quoted me. I don't know what is wrong with Subaru's engineers as their wheel hubs have had a history of going bad quick. Mine also went out at around 65k miles.
@@jackbloznowski5429 My son is needing his 5th wheel bearing done on 2013 Subaru Crosstrek. I think one of them is the 3rd time.
Mike H. I used a non-OEM bearing hoping it will last. Then there is the issue with bad struts in the rear. I am replacing them with Rallitek springs and Bilstein shocks. The rear is bouncing all over the place when hitting a bump.
I am replacing my second wheel bearing on my 16 XV C.Trek. First one was covered by warranty. Anyone know the torque specs for the axle nut?
Believe I found it. 158 ft. Lb
great video !!!!!!!
For the sake of redundancy, tightening requires torquing to a range lbs ft or Neuton meters. If you can afford an impact wrench, you can afford a torque wrench. Just treat your torque wrench like a precision instrument, don't drop it or toss it around like a crowbar and it should remain calibrated. I know all about that "calibrated elbow"
Nice vid!
Impreza GD MY06 does not have thi system.
You have to take the whole wheel mount apart to replace the bearing
YES, this repair is actually not just the bearing but the entire bearing hub is replaced
I have a question, What are the dimensions of the wheel bearings?
Is the Wheel Speed Sensor only on the left front hub? (That's one of the only hubs you see getting changed on RUclips!)
Theyre on all 4. Its needed to read the wheel speed, also used for abs, traction control... bunch of stuff
hI George , any chance to make ATOTO car stereo installation for us?
Yes i will upload it in next few days.
That bearing will fail prematurely because you torqued it down with an impact gun. Always use a torque wrench and torque to exact specifications.
I would have put wheel bearing grease on the splines of the axle....
Thanks
Both California and Colorado dealership charge 1500 for just rear
gracias,
Hi i replaced but engine and abs light is on can't off them
Its probably that magnetic circle on the back. Did the new one have that magnet ?
I have to replace the front, passenger hub assembly in my 2008 Impreza and I'm having a hard time finding the part number and OEM brand. Would appreciate any assistance! And thanks for the video, I'll be using it once I find the part!
Any luck finding the part number or OEM brand? I was going to purchase AC Delco but can't find it in stock..
@@jonlon7488 I found it on Amazon and everything worked out great. Not too difficult to replace either. It was about $125 and this is the item description: "SUBARU 28373FG000 Hub Complete Front Axle"
Subaru hub assemblies are crap. Ours failed at 60k.
I've had to replace 3 so far, My mechanic just let me know that there is a bulletin (search "Bulletin Number: 05-70-19") where the backing plate is uneven and caused my bearing to go early. Might be something to replace.
Spent 12 hours yesterday trying to separate the rust welded bearing on my friends car. Literally tried everything. Im about to go back over so we can replace the whole assembly because we could not separate it.
I have a bad wheel bearing on my WRX and the shop is saying it’s going to cost 1300. This seems insanely expensive , gotta know if I’m getting ripped off or not
Late I know, but it sounds too high. I just did my 2014 Forester Rear Driver side and it took 3 hours going very slowly. Maybe a two hour job at shop. No rust here in Southern CA so that helped. If rusted on the bearing could be a nightmare. BTW the axle nut and bolts should be Torqued.
Well if only megnetic only works then i suppose after market hubs r illegal making it not safe.
I have had good luck with Moog bearings- and they are probably made a bit better. Using it in the rears on a forester and Impreza.
Wheres the part about dealing with rusted to hell parts?
Can’t be stuck if it’s a liquid
My rear was hard as hell to remove. It was all corroded and had to hammer it off
Земляк давай ещё работы по субару,
I feel like I so overpaid for an extended warranty on my 2014 Crosstrek. I only had two claims for wheel bearings, and I have the service manual.
Lmao. Havehad moog bearings on mine for 2 years. No abs light.
@@jima3129 Hi, I replaced my 2014 Subaru Crosstrek wheel bearing ( left front ) then I did test drive. Looks everything okey after that ABS light traction control and hill assist light on. Also Engine light on to engine code is p0500 ABS code is C1222 I changed wheel bearing again ( moog brand ) nothing happen then I changed ABS sensor still same... I didn't figure out ! Do you have any idea ? thank you
nice safety glasses
You forgot to plug up screws on the back on this video, you put screws by hand only check one more time
Dealerships wanted 1400 for both back ones….. these seems very doable at home
holy smokes, my dealer did my rear ones with brakes for 800
It would not move I removed the bolts at the back and it would not move
richie mack that’s when u smack the piss out of it lol 5 days later so I assume u got it done?!
You don’t recommend after market shell bearings however Subaru can’t seem to make one that lasts more than 10,000 miles. I recommend you don’t waste your money on OEM crap that won’t last and just get the cheaper aftermarket one.
Ahahah.. i know someone like u.. thanks to this video, my customer are statisfied
Must be nice working on a vehicle with zero rust… this is not as easy in a car from New England
So the title has front wheel bearing...but you're replacing the rear in the video along with the link to a rear wheel assembly. Is there a video for the front one?
wow, the bearing hub came right off. how came some people spent hours and hours to hammer it out.
It all depends where you live. Hard winter months, salt and rust play a role on removing those Hubs.
did you see how new everything looks? i just looks dusty.
I didn't see you torquing all the nuts
Stop talkin about that impact and let’s go mate.