Sometimes you get a "do-over" and sometimes it's to late. This video is the incentive to think ahead and write it down so it is unnecessary for a "do-over." Great video - top quality.
I was completely convinced you would name either passion or patience. Given that you seem to have plenty of both, they might not have come to your mind as I assume you take them for granted. Great job so far!
I bought a bunch of 12” drill bits in common sizes just for situations like that. Also, you can get extender shafts. I forgot to ream some of the bushings on my ailerons and the bolts would not fit through them. I had to reach in about 18” to get to them and the drill extender worked great to get a reamer into the channel.
Awesome advice! I have used a lot of your tips on my KR-2 build! One of the builders of a Bearhawk I also follow added access panels to his glare shield should he ever need to get into the top area behind the panel which I though is a great idea. May not be practical on the SD but then again ... it might. Thank you for all the inspiration & sage advice!
How about hot gluing a castle nut on your elevator pivot axle then drill the hole. If you don't like that, you could thread the pivot axle and use a washer and nut instead of a cotter pin.
Drill pilot hole in a nut and use it as a guide. What I have done, I used 10mm nut, tap it with 6mm bolt [to lock it onto the shaft] and used long drill bit. Simple.
At about 13:30,,,,What about an extended drill bit to drill out the pin for the pivot point for the elevator or if they don’t make one that thin (1/16”drill bit) then possibly a flexible Dremel tool type device might work. Just a thought.
For the elevator hole, a dremel is a great option to get it done. If the dremel is still too big, you can use the dremel bit in a right angle die grinder.
On the elevator pin we have 12 in drill bits at work and jigs for the cotter pins to drill straight and with the rudder cable maybe just a fairlead to keep it away?
Ran into something like this, only had to drill a 1/4" hole though a 1-1/2" opening 6" from the top. Not much different. Drill a clearance hole in the end of a 3/8" or 1/4" maybe a 1/4" deep. Braise drill bit in place. Make as long as needed, looks like 3 or 4 inches would work. A Dremel might work but looks close.
Does the Zenith kit come with accurate and complete drawings? I assume that the cut-out you mention early in the video is shown on drawings ? As a retired machinist/modelmaker having been involved in both design and making parts I would expect details like this to be well thought out and designed.
Great series. Thanks for putting this all together. Im trying to make up my mind if I should build a Zenith or not . Is it true the sides oil can a lot or no big deal. I live in Mi. GR ...sweet state. keep up the great work.
How about painting the rivets and then you only need to touch up the center after installed? The flange of the rivets could look like they were sprayed at the same time as the skin for the most part. The paint should harden enough before installation to still look good?
I was deciding whether to paint my rivets also since I primed all parts before assembly, but I found I like the look of the silver rivets against my white primer sheet metal so I am leaving mine “as is.” Surface rust on the rivets is possible, but not likely to be an issue and the primer on the sheet metal will help prevent any galvanic corrosion which is minimal anyway between aluminum alloys. I do dip my SS rivets and install them wet for additional protection against galvanic corrosion.
I don't have any experience with Dynon servos, but couldn't you flip the servo bracket 180 degree so the capstan is in the same plane as the elevator cable but the body of the servo is out of the way of the rudder cable (toward the left side of the aircraft)??
As you pointed out, thinking ahead on areas that'll be revisited time after time such as the panel and avionics will reap huge benefits if access is easy! Great video!
If the manufacturer had decent assembly instructions, you wouldn't have to think ahead. The numerous issues he encountered so far makes me wonder why he is such a cheerleader for Zenith.
I have had the same question for the last three years. These are just a few of the many things that we have run into that should have been incorporated into the construction manual. At the least there could be a Zenith sponsored forum where new builders could go to that would enhance the manual that has not been updated.
G,day Mark from Sydney Harbour Australia. Do you have an electric or cordless drill with a smaller chuck. This would give vertical drilling? You could consider tapping a thread on the end of the aluminium and washered locknuts? 🌏🇦🇺
Yes I have smaller drills but they are all too large. Obviously the first thought is to get a longer drill bit-but as I stated in the video a 1/16” drill bit is super fragile and a 6” or 12” drill bit would never drill the hole before it snaps and breaks.
I just finished my elevator today! In my kit the steel pivot part already came with the rivet holes and the cotter pin hole drilled. On to the trim tab next!
Another great video! Thanks. I'll throw in my 2¢ on the elevator pivot along with several of the other good suggestions below. You can get drill bit mounted in 1/4-inch hex shank and a 1/4-inch hex bit extension. They should be thin enough to get the job done. Is there room to rotate the servo 180° so the motor is away from the elevator cable? Thanks again.
I had drill bit extenders years ago for your problem. The end of a shaft flared out and had Allen heads to tighten down on the bit. Had 3 sizes to cover 1/16 to 3/8.
About the servo Vs rudder cable: can you flip the servo (incl. the base) 180 degrees, so the capstan faces to the left, instead of the right? That should give you some lateral separation from the rudder cable. It takes you a wee-bit further away from the stiffener, though. Awesome video, as always.
I’ve had a number of people tell me they want to be first in line when I sell it. But I haven’t kept any of their info because I have no plans to sell it anytime soon.
Sometimes you get a "do-over" and sometimes it's to late. This video is the incentive to think ahead and write it down so it is unnecessary for a "do-over." Great video - top quality.
I was completely convinced you would name either passion or patience. Given that you seem to have plenty of both, they might not have come to your mind as I assume you take them for granted.
Great job so far!
Great info! Thank you.
Mark, thanks for sharing. I have been in the same situations, as you said riveted into a corner and gaveling to fix things. Still doing it. 😂
Good advice as always! Visualization and planning are critical. Hope to see you again at the Zenith Homecoming!
Love all your videos. You sir are a perfectionist and a pro!
While in the Navy i was sent to Avionics School in Memphis,. Tennessee (One year School).
When you do that pully over the servo make sure that the cable won't bounce off in rough weather because it probably would.
Mark, if you use a Dremel with a flex drive (Very Narrow) with a small Chuck, you can get into the space to drill the pin in the Elevator !
I bought a bunch of 12” drill bits in common sizes just for situations like that. Also, you can get extender shafts. I forgot to ream some of the bushings on my ailerons and the bolts would not fit through them. I had to reach in about 18” to get to them and the drill extender worked great to get a reamer into the channel.
Angle chuck attachment for your drill, should allow enough clearance to drill straight.
Awesome advice! I have used a lot of your tips on my KR-2 build! One of the builders of a Bearhawk I also follow added access panels to his glare shield should he ever need to get into the top area behind the panel which I though is a great idea. May not be practical on the SD but then again ... it might.
Thank you for all the inspiration & sage advice!
How about hot gluing a castle nut on your elevator pivot axle then drill the hole. If you don't like that, you could thread the pivot axle and use a washer and nut instead of a cotter pin.
Drill pilot hole in a nut and use it as a guide. What I have done, I used 10mm nut, tap it with 6mm bolt [to lock it onto the shaft] and used long drill bit. Simple.
At about 13:30,,,,What about an extended drill bit to drill out the pin for the pivot point for the elevator or if they don’t make one that thin (1/16”drill bit) then possibly a flexible Dremel tool type device might work. Just a thought.
For the elevator hole, a dremel is a great option to get it done. If the dremel is still too big, you can use the dremel bit in a right angle die grinder.
For your elevator pin hole, braze a length of 1/16 inch cold rolled shaft to the end of the drill bit.
nice job
Btw did you see the Beringer shocks for the grove gear? Project Kitfox just released a video with them
On the elevator pin we have 12 in drill bits at work and jigs for the cotter pins to drill straight and with the rudder cable maybe just a fairlead to keep it away?
Hey Mark!....great tips and advice, also, being top mounted, if the sender does develop a leak, it won't drain half the tank! Thanks for the update!
Use an angled drill adapter
You could get a long drill bit and make a wooden or plastic jig to keep from drilling out your elevator skin rivets.
Could use a drill bit with a 1/4" hex shank, and a 1/4" hex extension.
Ran into something like this, only had to drill a 1/4" hole though a 1-1/2" opening 6" from the top. Not much different. Drill a clearance hole in the end of a 3/8" or 1/4" maybe a 1/4" deep. Braise drill bit in place. Make as long as needed, looks like 3 or 4 inches would work. A Dremel might work but looks close.
Does the Zenith kit come with accurate and complete drawings? I assume that the cut-out you mention early in the video is shown on drawings ? As a retired machinist/modelmaker having been involved in both design and making parts I would expect details like this to be well thought out and designed.
Great series. Thanks for putting this all together. Im trying to make up my mind if I should build a Zenith or not . Is it true the sides oil can a lot or no big deal. I live in Mi. GR ...sweet state. keep up the great work.
Cotter pin just use a flexible extension and drill. Have one for my Dremel.
How about painting the rivets and then you only need to touch up the center after installed? The flange of the rivets could look like they were sprayed at the same time as the skin for the most part. The paint should harden enough before installation to still look good?
I was deciding whether to paint my rivets also since I primed all parts before assembly, but I found I like the look of the silver rivets against my white primer sheet metal so I am leaving mine “as is.” Surface rust on the rivets is possible, but not likely to be an issue and the primer on the sheet metal will help prevent any galvanic corrosion which is minimal anyway between aluminum alloys. I do dip my SS rivets and install them wet for additional protection against galvanic corrosion.
Do you have, or did you try a 90 degree drill attachment with the short bit? The one I have is really narrow. The head is only about 1/2 inches.
I don't have any experience with Dynon servos, but couldn't you flip the servo bracket 180 degree so the capstan is in the same plane as the elevator cable but the body of the servo is out of the way of the rudder cable (toward the left side of the aircraft)??
I would list your #1 skill as a close #2. I would list the ability to write big checks as the #1 skill. 😂
As you pointed out, thinking ahead on areas that'll be revisited time after time such as the panel and avionics will reap huge benefits if access is easy! Great video!
I am surprised Zenith didn’t put an inspection cover to access that wing bolt.
If the manufacturer had decent assembly instructions, you wouldn't have to think ahead. The numerous issues he encountered so far makes me wonder why he is such a cheerleader for Zenith.
I have had the same question for the last three years. These are just a few of the many things that we have run into that should have been incorporated into the construction manual. At the least there could be a Zenith sponsored forum where new builders could go to that would enhance the manual that has not been updated.
G,day Mark from Sydney Harbour Australia.
Do you have an electric or cordless drill with a smaller chuck. This would give vertical drilling? You could consider tapping a thread on the end of the aluminium and washered locknuts?
🌏🇦🇺
Yes I have smaller drills but they are all too large. Obviously the first thought is to get a longer drill bit-but as I stated in the video a 1/16” drill bit is super fragile and a 6” or 12” drill bit would never drill the hole before it snaps and breaks.
I just finished my elevator today! In my kit the steel pivot part already came with the rivet holes and the cotter pin hole drilled. On to the trim tab next!
Another great video! Thanks.
I'll throw in my 2¢ on the elevator pivot along with several of the other good suggestions below. You can get drill bit mounted in 1/4-inch hex shank and a 1/4-inch hex bit extension. They should be thin enough to get the job done.
Is there room to rotate the servo 180° so the motor is away from the elevator cable?
Thanks again.
Use a long drill bit, the chuck will not hit the flap.
For your trim servo if the motor can be configured or wired to run in reverse can you spin it around 180 degrees and re-secure it?
Then it will be in the way of the left ridder cable.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Gotcha. Wasn't sure if maybe the orientation yielded a little bit of extra clearance either way.
I had drill bit extenders years ago for your problem. The end of a shaft flared out and had Allen heads to tighten down on the bit. Had 3 sizes to cover 1/16 to 3/8.
APPLAUSE APPLAUSE APPLAUSE APPLAUSE APPLAUSE APPLAUSE
How about using a longer drill bet on your elevator
About the servo Vs rudder cable: can you flip the servo (incl. the base) 180 degrees, so the capstan faces to the left, instead of the right? That should give you some lateral separation from the rudder cable. It takes you a wee-bit further away from the stiffener, though. Awesome video, as always.
Use a Dremel with small chuck to drill hole……Hal.
Don't the instructions from the manufacturer guide you through the steps to avoid the issues you talked about?
How big is the list of people standing in line to buy the Cruiser?
I’ve had a number of people tell me they want to be first in line when I sell it. But I haven’t kept any of their info because I have no plans to sell it anytime soon.
time management
Aircraft, as are cars, are designed by engineers who don't work on them.