If I were to guess, the ball bearing for the cable is in the housing mounted to your panel where the knobs slide in and out. When it was pulled back it came out and stayed in the tube end of the housing. Dismount the housing at the panel, pull the cable out and pour the bearing out.
Your doing great! Plz don't let little setbacks bug you! For 30+ years I worked at a large company, my job was a combination of DARPA and Skunk Works rolled into one. LOL. Needless to say, I've seen my share of problems. 8) Your work looks outstanding, and you are a great example for others to follow. Have a little slip, just relax, think about it, fix it and keep going. Again, great work, congrats!! 8) --gary
McMaster Carr has the ball bearing you need. They ship quickly too. You can measure the diameter of the hole on the cable and the ball diameter will be slightly smaller to fit.
Just subbed! We have similar channels. I’m documenting the build of my Rans S-21 Outbound. I’m currently at firewall forward and Dynon avionics install. Been watching your Dynon wiring videos the past couple days. Good stuff!
As I recall, pull the silver knob and wire all the way out of the sleeve. With the ramp facing up, place the ball in the ramp and slide the wire back in to engage the ball bearing in the hole in the sleeve. Don't forget to put the spring on the silver knob first. Good luck.
Aeronca Champ....the throttle cable housing is secured to the engine mount tubing. It's been done like that for 78 years. I don't notice the throttle setting changing on my champ.
Having built several RV aircraft I can tell you Vans has a bracket that sandwiches between the sump and the throttle servo; the mixture and the throttle cable are secured to it. This way when the engine shakes it will shake with it. If you would like me to email you a plans view of it I would be happy to.
It looks like your carb is installed backward. On most applications the mixture lever faces forward. The throttle cable would then come down from the left aft end of the engine attached to the engine on the accessory section of the engine.
Good to hear from you again, Would a 3D printed cover that just snapped into your old jack location be something you would like? I can print something up for you if you would like. That would save you some time. could even integrate a plexi window if that sounds good.
I was thinking of riveting a clear piece of lexan on the bottom and having a cool inspection window. Could you make some thing that snaps in with a window? I guess it doesn't need to snap in-I could rivet it in too.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Yes, I can do something that dropped in with a friction fit or just a slight tab to grab the metal thickness that would then have or allow you to bond in a window. This could then be pried out with a plastic scrapper so as not to mar the finish. just need the hole dimensions and the material thickness along with what thickness of lexan you want to use . What I am thinking is sort of a picture frame that is about .06" above the existing metal, with an internal lip for the lexan and several tabs to grip the existing metal.
@@stevenwilkes5737 That sounds interesting. The opening is 4.3215” by 3.25”. The aluminum is .0265. If you send me your email I’ll attach a pic if that helps.
you were saying you have to trim that front aluminum what about if you measure it to fit and cut slots in it and bend it over you may be able to put some rubber on top of that for support ✌️just food for thought
Think about using a clear piece of lexan over the rear tunnel. Mount it from underneath for a smoot finish. It is then a great inspection port and conversation piece.
Other than the cracked muffler a year or so ago, I've had no issues. I did replace all 8 spark plugs and it seems to idle smoother now after a cold start. This has really been a good engine.
People like simple solutions....which is why the ball fell out - well both that and gravity. Obviously buying a new assembly - a kit might appeal to you. That said maybe you should consider using a piece of adhesive tape or is that to simple? How about taking apart a retractable ball point pen - surely not! Definitely you need an IA and A&P. God bless you man!
Some do, some still use a carb. My choice was to go with a carb and get my engine, or go with fuel injection and get on a two year wait list at Lycoming. I went with the carb.
I think the Lycoming or Titan engine is the best engine for this airframe, but I'm very disappointed in Lycoming. Not only do they provide NO data on the engine, but they also include a bag of nuts and bolts and clamps and don't even tell me what they are all for or where they go! No, I would never recommend a Lycoming. Go with the Continental Titan.
Thats what I‘ve heard as well. When I bought my IO-360 I went through Aerosport Power. They were just awesome! Every question before the purchase was answered as well long after the engine wss delivered. One of the best customer experiences in the whole build process!
If I were to guess, the ball bearing for the cable is in the housing mounted to your panel where the knobs slide in and out. When it was pulled back it came out and stayed in the tube end of the housing. Dismount the housing at the panel, pull the cable out and pour the bearing out.
You’re a genius! The dang ball was indeed still in the housing. All fixed! Thank you.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast yay
Glad you decided to post ! I really miss your videos! Very informative! PLEASE keep them coming!!!
Thanks for the comment!
Your doing great! Plz don't let little setbacks bug you! For 30+ years I worked at a large company, my job was a combination of DARPA and Skunk Works rolled into one. LOL. Needless to say, I've seen my share of problems. 8) Your work looks outstanding, and you are a great example for others to follow. Have a little slip, just relax, think about it, fix it and keep going. Again, great work, congrats!! 8) --gary
Love seeing your progress.
Nice to see you again . But do appreciate the time it takes you to do these videos which takes you away from building
McMaster Carr has the ball bearing you need. They ship quickly too. You can measure the diameter of the hole on the cable and the ball diameter will be slightly smaller to fit.
Just subbed! We have similar channels. I’m documenting the build of my Rans S-21 Outbound. I’m currently at firewall forward and Dynon avionics install. Been watching your Dynon wiring videos the past couple days. Good stuff!
DJ in the house!
Awesome to have you back !
Yahoo, it's good to have you back 😎
glad to see you back keep us updated
You could 3d print a cup holder that fits in the hole, it could still be removed for inspection underneath
Great to see you back at it!😊
As I recall, pull the silver knob and wire all the way out of the sleeve. With the ramp facing up, place the ball in the ramp and slide the wire back in to engage the ball bearing in the hole in the sleeve. Don't forget to put the spring on the silver knob first. Good luck.
I'll have to see if I can find the correct sized ball!
I look forward to your first flight!~
Me too!!
Fijn je weer te zien!
Aeronca Champ....the throttle cable housing is secured to the engine mount tubing. It's been done like that for 78 years. I don't notice the throttle setting changing on my champ.
Thanks for that info!
Looks great ,
Having built several RV aircraft I can tell you Vans has a bracket that sandwiches between the sump and the throttle servo; the mixture and the throttle cable are secured to it. This way when the engine shakes it will shake with it. If you would like me to email you a plans view of it I would be happy to.
Yes please! KitplaneEnthusiast@gmail.com
That little ball bearing is somewhere in the airplane; you'll find it a few days after you have installed a new one. 😁
So true!
You can order the ball bearing from aircraft spruce. Don't ask how i know.....
Lol really? They actually have the ball that goes in the mixture cable??
A-4 FTW!!
Old school!
It looks like your carb is installed backward. On most applications the mixture lever faces forward. The throttle cable would then come down from the left aft end of the engine attached to the engine on the accessory section of the engine.
hmm, it could be. Thank you Lycoming for providing NO instructions whatsoever.
I put my jacks in the same place a couple months ago. Seemed like a good idea at the time, thanks for the validation. :)
Good to hear from you again, Would a 3D printed cover that just snapped into your old jack location be something you would like? I can print something up for you if you would like. That would save you some time. could even integrate a plexi window if that sounds good.
I was thinking of riveting a clear piece of lexan on the bottom and having a cool inspection window. Could you make some thing that snaps in with a window? I guess it doesn't need to snap in-I could rivet it in too.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Yes, I can do something that dropped in with a friction fit or just a slight tab to grab the metal thickness that would then have or allow you to bond in a window. This could then be pried out with a plastic scrapper so as not to mar the finish. just need the hole dimensions and the material thickness along with what thickness of lexan you want to use . What I am thinking is sort of a picture frame that is about .06" above the existing metal, with an internal lip for the lexan and several tabs to grip the existing metal.
@@stevenwilkes5737 That sounds interesting. The opening is 4.3215” by 3.25”. The aluminum is .0265.
If you send me your email I’ll attach a pic if that helps.
you were saying you have to trim that front aluminum what about if you measure it to fit and cut slots in it and bend it over you may be able to put some rubber on top of that for support ✌️just food for thought
Where are you going to put the cup holders? You are putting in cup holders, right?
Think about using a clear piece of lexan over the rear tunnel. Mount it from underneath for a smoot finish. It is then a great inspection port and conversation piece.
I’m curious how the condition inspection on the UL 350 in the Cruiser went. Have you seen any issues?
Other than the cracked muffler a year or so ago, I've had no issues. I did replace all 8 spark plugs and it seems to idle smoother now after a cold start. This has really been a good engine.
People like simple solutions....which is why the ball fell out - well both that and gravity. Obviously buying a new assembly - a kit might appeal to you. That said maybe you should consider using a piece of adhesive tape or is that to simple? How about taking apart a retractable ball point pen - surely not! Definitely you need an IA and A&P. God bless you man!
Why don’t these engines have fuel injection??
Some do, some still use a carb. My choice was to go with a carb and get my engine, or go with fuel injection and get on a two year wait list at Lycoming. I went with the carb.
How similar is the Pitts Lycoming install to the 750?
It’s actually very different.
Like !!!!! Good video !!!!!!
Good show.
yeah, ball bearing. hardware store item. it can be installed, kinda of a pain, but you'll figure it out.
I can't understand how the air entering the cowling will exit. if the baFFle is completely closed OFF with no way for the HOT AIR to scape.
don’t use lycom engine what I’m hearing.
I think the Lycoming or Titan engine is the best engine for this airframe, but I'm very disappointed in Lycoming. Not only do they provide NO data on the engine, but they also include a bag of nuts and bolts and clamps and don't even tell me what they are all for or where they go! No, I would never recommend a Lycoming. Go with the Continental Titan.
Thats what I‘ve heard as well. When I bought my IO-360 I went through Aerosport Power. They were just awesome! Every question before the purchase was answered as well long after the engine wss delivered. One of the best customer experiences in the whole build process!
Time between sorties?, sorry but your hanger is to clean, makes me feel bad mine is a mess and stays that way.
Yeap. Mic it because there are two sizes