POWERFUL EBIKE QS273 5T Upgrade Verdict - Better than 3.5t ??? [Part 2]
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- Conclusion of the complete walkthrough of changing out my QS273 3.5t motor for a 273 5t motor. What will be the results??? Watch till the end for full comparison details between the 2 motor windings, along with many other useful EBIKE tips.
Bonus points if you can spot the Arnold Schwarzenegger impression!
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Frame, motor, Sabvoton controller and wheels from Alibaba. Everything else was purchased through various online stores and built in my garage.
Full Spec List:
1. QS273 V3 motor, 3.5T wind, NOW 5T
2. Sabvoton 72200 200amp controller - locked version
3. 49ah Panasonic battery with 150 amp max bms. (weighs 37lbs.)
4. 80/100-21 front tire & 18x1.85 rim in rear with Dunlop K990 tire.
5. Protaper Aluminum Handlebar, 3" Rise, 31.8mm Bar Clamp, 810mm Width. I cut 1.5” off either side.
6. Odi Rogue lock on grips. These things are AWESOME!
7. Shimano Zee 4 piston brakes on both front and back. Front rotor is a SRAM Centerline 220mm with a Hope adapter. Wired for e-brake. These brakes are a definite improvement over Tektros.
8. Two 210mm DNM RCP 2S 550lbs shocks.
9. DNM USD8 front forks.
10. Shimano MX 16 Tooth Single Speed Freewheel.
11. Fender is off a Razor MX650 and cut down to size. Had to get creative in mounting this as there is no mounting holes on the DNM fork. A bit of a ghetto mount but it works.
12. SCOSCHE MAGTFM2 MagicMount XL Universal Flush Mount Holder for Mobile Devices.
13. CAB Motorworks Saddleman seat made in USA. LOVE this seat. SO much better than the Chinese version.
14. Nkomax automatic Smart Bike Tail Light Ultra Bright
15. OneUp Components Composite Pedals. Your feet stick to these like glue.
16. Izumi Chain JET BLACK Easy Running 1/8" BMX
17. FFSA Gravity Light Direct Mount Stem 31.8mm 5D 45mm, with a Direct Mount Stem Stack Billet Spacer 12mm from SOUL
18. RaceFace Narrow Wide 1x Chain Retaining Chainring 5-Bolt 110mm BCD 40t Black with Promax SQ-1 155mm crank arms.
19. 180lbs.
20. Grin Cycle Satiator 72 volt e-bike SMART battery charger.
The trick to those brake calipers is leave the post mounts a little loose, then go up and wrap something onto the brake lever to push the pads in against the rotor. Go back to the caliper again and tighten them, and enjoy centered brakes since both pads retract away from the rotor. You can do the same with mechanical disc brakes, except you have to turn in the non-moving pad 3-5 clicks beforehand, then turn it the same number back out after so the rotor doesn't rub
Yeah that was the first thing I tried. It didn't work, especially when you have a slight bend in your rotor. These are floating pads.
I am so shocked that you don’t have at least a million subs because your videos are so high quality
Thanks dude, I appreciate that! It's probably because the people who appreciate this stuff are still far and few in between
Awesome to see that you love the 5T, I have to say it again your setup just looks so good!!!
Thanks man!!! Once I upgrade the battery this thing will be crazy, ha. Thinking about some Fox 40 forks as well.
@@JoshStreetDesign could you do some big hills theres nothing really on this motor trying to do big hills
@@Ebackfive the 5T motor climbs up hills that are super steep and long with literally no problem at all from a dead stop. And not pavement, I'm talking about sandy hills. I actually took some video of me doing it the other day on a couple really big hills but I haven't made the video yet
I admire your dedication and enthusiasm 🙌
Thanks man!!!
Glad you received the correct motor this time and it worked for you 💪
Thanks bro!
thanks for sharing your experience, I have the 3.5t motor and am also addicted to ebikes. maybe I will do a video as well.
Hi there..what is your tope speed for the 3.5T? And your voltage? Thanks!
Glad you got the bike sorted in the end fella.Can clearly see the bike is lacking amps and suffering voltage sag because the 17kw 5t 273 i had a ride on was lifting the front everywhere and and spinning like crazy.Just build a 22s samsung 40t pack of your size choice and let it eat with 20kw as they 100% handle it.Also you are a big lad so lighten the bike up much as poss,no stand,silly pedals,lights ect.Also setting the throttle to a faster response can help give you a feeling off more torque.In short drop some weight build a pack and see its true potential because i bet you are not seeing half of what the motor can pull.BTW ill be building a high power pack in the next couple of weeks so may be worth a look.Cheers
Yeah I have the throttle settings at the highest possible amount but you're right my limitation is my battery at 150 amps. I'm 6' 2", 200lbs without gear. I have to keep the pedals though because my town is saturated with cops I literally pass two every time I take this thing out on the road to get to the woods and have been pulled over twice and the pedals got me out of it. But yeah trust me I hate the pedals, it's so hard to constantly switch sides when you're going fast on the tight twisty trails.
I can confirm that. I built a 20s5p 80amp continuous BMS Samsung 40t for a 3,000 watt motor and the battery is barely trying. It's probably doing less than half of it's capacity at full throttle.
The “cogging” that you feel from spinning the wheel when the nuts are tightened is probably from the bearings in the motor case being squeezed. The rubber seats of the bearings don’t like to be compressed and you can feel their resistance to movement at low speeds. The stock qs motor bearings are ok but I have seen some people upgrading them for higher quality ones. You should get about 5000 miles out of the stock bearings.
Now that answer sounds about right make sense. But it's kind of like a catch-22 because you don't want to have those nuts loose otherwise those axle flats will spin
It could possibly be a design flaw and or with the use of small diameter washers as spacers, putting too much force on the inner race of the bearing. The force needs to be applied to both the inner and the outter race of the bearing for the bearing to work properly. Very expensive bike hubs are designed to virtually eliminate the lateral forces associated with securing and tightening a wheel on a bike
@@JoshStreetDesign You need a larger diameter spacer so the pressure sits on the motor case not the bearing
@ianmangham4570 thanks, I also just learned something, because even my current qs205 has a drag that I hate. But this explains it perfectly
Hey mate cheers for the videos, appreciate how you show your mistakes glad to see it’s not just me 👍🇦🇺
Everyone makes mistakes!
Holy shit! 1.16k subs!!?? You seem so polished on editing and presentation I figured you'd have a half a milly when I looked. 👀
Ha ha, would be nice dude. Sigh
5T way to go. 👍👍👍👍👍😎 Plough them trails bro.
You know it dude!!!
I see you what front fender you used. What rear fender did you use and how did you attach to the rear swing arms?
That vibration is caused by the magnetic field. Magnets going over the poles in your stator. It is the same with all brushless motors. Drones etc have the same type of vibration.
I hear what you're saying but I don't think that's the cause because it doesn't do it if it's not cranked down with the lock nuts. So if it's just sitting there loose in the dropouts I can spin it and it doesn't make that noise or vibration at all....
Same thing happened to me ordering a 5t but getting a 3.5t! These motors are a pain with figment but work so well. I had to replace the hall sensors in mine and have a video on this if you ever need it. Major brake fade on mine so I welded a motorcycle disc to a mtb 203mm rotor in order to add a mix rear caliper. Worked very well. Also be careful on using rocks as jumps. The 10g spokes are crappy and I had to upgrade to higher gauge and change the pattern. Half my spokes broke and dented my rim with one rock jump!
Yeah they're like butter metal
I got the same 5T motor from NB Power. Im still building my bike, or more like missing battery. Your explanation tells me im sure i didn't go wront with the 5T!! Looking forward for your content.
Get the most powerful battery you can dude, don't skimp. Good luck!
@@JoshStreetDesign Will do! Thanks!
@@JoshStreetDesign Forgot to ask, did you add a spacer between the motor and disk brake? Doesn't your brake rub against the motor? Mine did, got a spacer now and it does not rub to the motor side anymore. We have different frames so maybe you don't even need one.
@@IsmonLaatu yeah I have a spacer, it's like a 3 or 4 mil
I used to do these motorbike tyres when I was a young kid.
Before I had any e-bikes
The trick is don't put match air in the inner tube.
Can use hot water but most of the time I don't.
Number one rule don't scratch the rim.
You can use a piece of rubber or tape.
These are easy compared to tubeless moped tyres.
For them all I do is use washing liquid to sail the gap
Awesome vid, J! Seeing the bike in that outdoor shot...that black on black looks f#cking saweet.
Yoooo thanks brother, appreciate the love!!!
8:45 Merry Christmas to you too. 🤘🏼🎅🏼
Ha ha, thanks man!
Very powerful motor can I ask how much it cost. I'm in the process of building my own electric bike and I'm looking for a good strong motor. Thanks
It was like $600 when I bought it but I don't know what the price is now as that was a couple years ago
@@JoshStreetDesign Thanks
I must say you are making very interesting choices regarding upgrades :D
Winding for a qs273 doesn't make any difference if you just add power. Which everyone should do because if you aren't pushing +15kw you aren't using the motor for it's potential at all.
Everything around 12-14kw peak power users should use qs205 because of the weight simply.
The fun thing about qs273 is that you can push so much power through it that it power wheelies still from 80km/h. So I personally think there is no reason to go with anything else than 3.5t winding.
Yo Boss!!! I kinda agree with that to a point. But this was a cheaper option for me right now. I am spending A LOT of money right now on all my upgrades on my Suzuki RMZ250, so I can't get the new battery and controller as of yet until I let my bank accounts replenish. I will say though, I miss that higher speed torque that the 3.5t has, but I LOVE the low end torque this 5t has. I can't ride this at high speeds on the road anyway, it would just get me in trouble with the police. haha! My town has a MILLION cops everywhere. I still have the 3.5t sitting in the garage, but the rim is bent like crazy from hitting all the big logs at speed, LOL
@@JoshStreetDesign 3.5t all the way get feed up waiting for mates with higher windings.
Just give it more amps.
@@gkitch6755 to match the acceleration of the 5t you'd have to give it A LOT more amps, which cost A LOT.
@@JoshStreetDesign yes mate im running 3.5t 150amp 134.4v it's the nuts I understand all and have had many set ups lol keep up the good videos
@@gkitch6755 what controller/battery set up?
Just discovered your video. Freakin awesome! Keep putting out great informative content. Just subscribed.
Thanks brotha! About to shoot a new one here on upgrading forks just waiting for a part to come in the mail been waiting for over a month.
To center the caliper perfectly on the rotor with no scrubbing , simply apply the brakes by the levers while tightening the bolts (centering bolts) on the caliper. what this does is holds the caliper perfectly still and in place (considering the pads are positioned correctly in their seats) while you are tightening the caliper down. This has always worked for me on cable and hydro bike brakes
Since these are high end floating shimano pads, that method isn't precise enough unfortunately. Closing the caliper doesn't guarantee it's where it should be. Wish it was that easy. LOL
@@JoshStreetDesign I am currently using shimano XTR brakes. And if one pad is more worn you just shim the other side with business cards. Its always worked for me and I am super meticulous. All you have to do is try it next time. It is that easy..
Yo, I didn't know Pauly Shore was into e-bikes? LOL nice ride dude. You got that thing set up nice. Subscribed & liked.
Ha ha. ToooTtaaatlllyyy Paaaauuullllyyyy
Nice bro i am going for speed and power myself.. Currently preparing for a bac8000 upgrade myself. Keep me updated and nice bike bro.👍🏽
thanks dude. how much you gonna spend on that BAC?
@@JoshStreetDesign Hey bro my whole kit (including battery/screen/mount/exact) is about 3200$. It’s coming from Europe. Just finished all the measurements for my dealer. Going to have a 48ah pack based Samsung 30q cells (peak at 320 amps). I went with a better range pack vs more power. Will let you know how everything turned out. It’s a upgrade on my 8k enduro bike from a standard sabavaton 72150 (with 72/40ah 100amp pack).
@@thedon22z awesome dude I can't wait to see a video when you get it going. What I asked though is how much are you spending on the BAC???
@@JoshStreetDesign oh the bac is about 800. Here is a link to my vendor:
endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=105671
@@thedon22z I'm gonna send them a message.
Tip for when tightening the brake calliper bolts down. Apply the brake at the bars so the calliper clamps onto the rotor, then tighten the bolts while the brake is applied. It will be perfectly aligned every time :)
thanks for the advice... but you're like the 10th person that's commented on this and that I've had to reply back to that these are high-end Shimano brakes with floating pads and that method does not work. Lol. : ) It takes more precision. ESPECIALLY if your rotor is slightly bent.
@@JoshStreetDesign Oh my bad, that defo wouldn't work then. Cheers for the good content
@@fredcorp66 thanks for watching and commenting dude!!
Bro loved the governator skit u did that was perfect and spot on .had me rollin laughing , and plus like 👍
thanks bro, haha
Great vid Great info.
Great build man. Do you know if that's the 170 drop off version or 150, I'm buying the same hub but mines the 170 drop off be helpful If I know it will.fit . Any help thanks.
Yeah 170, the 273 has the wider dropouts with the bigger 12mm axle flats
The QS205 motor wouldn't fit in this frame
Thanks mate much appreciated
a bit of lube on the bead will help with removing and replacing that tire. soapy water of even a tire shine like Meguiars Hotshine work wonders.
The new style is a waterproof plug for the hall sensors always check the top middle one they usually forget to fill that , not sure how effective they are but good idea I always wrap my plugs up well anyways in an old innertube and zip them up, poor water protection = bikedeath/controller halls, nice bike, must be great off road for tread with those Dunlop , you want torque try ASI controller absolutely incredible
Yeah that new waterproof style connector is the one I cut off to put the old one back on, lol. I probably should have done it the other way around, but I still can because the other secondary hall sensor still has the other style
im looking to do this QS273 on my Ride1Up Revv1. This bike would be more of a street bike, would you recommend the 5T or the 3T? I also heard you mentioned NY, I am in the northern NJ area. I would love to have somebody local who could help me during the process.
EDIT: Just got to that part, looks like 3.5 T is for me!
Hey man I love your videos I had some similar struggles when I build my ebike in the summer. Suck a nice bike you built man!!! I liked and subscribed right away. I'm having trouble with my regen breaking, do you have regen breaking on your bike?
Thanks man!!! I don't use the regen but I do use the electronic breaking, without it my brakes just aren't sufficient.
I did 4 tubes in one day, feel your pain dude.
I've gotten really good at it lately. Just changed 3 wheels last week.
@Josh Street Design Good fun isn't it.
Hey Josh, could you tell me what kickstand you're using? I had the stock Chinese one snap on me the other day
Same! I was like what the hell?!?!
Love the build and content. I have the #HellbirdBanditBike , it’s a similar frame(Electric Enduro)with 134v lipo battery, 100a Bluetooth controller with the QS205, it’s a beast on the streets here in Los Angeles.
Hey Josh
Nice video, how did you mount the controller inside the frame after you cut the lips off ?
And do it get hot inside frame with battery and controller together ?
there are two rails up at the top on the inside that you can run zip ties through so you just zip tie it to the top of the frame. As far as getting hot no not really only once did I notice it was hot on like 100° day where I ran it hard
Thanks Josh
Hi, thanks for the videos. I am still doubting on my project. I have a 85 C. C. Mx chassis and a trial bike chassis. I want to build a bike that climbs everything for a low speed sort of trial style excursion riding. So, always loved the hub motors from my electric bicycles but not sure if using this 5t motor filling the petrol motor space with batteries or using a mid drive motor of 5 kW having to build a little transmission to reduce speed and up the torque, having also lees battery space above the mid motor. As you see, chaos in my head. Any input is appreciated and thanks again for sharing.
Fire that route of bike, you will def need the mid drive with the transmission option if you can do it. Trials is all about that propper gearing. The build probably wouldn't go over 30 to 40 mph though just keep that in mind. also the trial likes you usually going slower so you're not using as much battery power.
Secure break leaver with cable tie to lock the caliper to the disc then very gently tighten caliper bolts this will help with centralising pads on disc once cable tie removed.
Floating disc pads, doesn't work.
those hall connectors are removable, you can pull that inside red or yellow plate out, inside the connector, then the pins fall out.. you can run your wires then put pins back in place. most of those default connectors are that way. that rubbing at the end of spinning the wheel is just cogging in the motor, all high torque/ high power motors do that, it has nothing to do with torqueing it down. it happens because the strong magnets grab the laminations as it rotates. perfectly normal.
Thanks for your input and watching!
Awesome video! What throttle do you use ?
Can you explain all the numbers? Great video 💪💪
Tire looks like the same profile as the CST Surge I put on my ebike. 100/90-18. I consider myself a tire changing expert, in that I can do most start to finish in under 10min on the floor, but that tire was a bitch! Sidewall was so low and hard (int terrain). Zero room for the tube to even fit in. I bought a smallest thinnest one the shop had. Even considered doing tubliss but I don't think it would have went in.
Didn't know the 990 was being made again! I ran them in the 90's. The 773 that replaced it was a better tire. Total badass mud tire, but the 756 was the best all around ST. Hopefully the reinforcements they added to it (like the 752 that they brought back) work, because they used to throw knobs... even on 125s. The side knobs on the front practically all came off. Cold rubber, tall small knobs, rip, rip!
another great video 👍👍
You got there maaan. Holy cannoli, the bike looks like it digs in more now, easily. Some work there, good tutorial on a few things to watch out for with the inner tube thing. I have two tyres to change up still. I think the 4t would be the best balance for me if I invest in a new wheel ever. Great video, bike looks spot on too
⚡️👍🏴💪
Yo ant!!!! Thanks as always bro. yes you're going to have a mix of road and off-road I think the 4T would be the great option for you. You get a little bit of both worlds there. I hope you're healing up okay
@@JoshStreetDesign Merry Christmas Josh to you and yours. Healing well thanks brother
I think these bikes we have need some more battery power, all the motors and controller amps won’t do anything unless that power is there to work from. Trade in battery for better I think we’d get a lot more out of them
Peace out
vibration you feel when the wheel comes to a stop could just be cogging torque (normal for PM motors) and if so its always there just there's some harmonics at that low rpm that makes it more noticeable... if you dont feel it through the frame when the wheel nuts are loose, try feeling if the motor axle itself still vibrates as it comes to a stop - if so then its almost certainly the cogging torque (as opposed to the bearings being under too much axial pressure or something more serious)
PS could have bought a controller that'd put out more phase amps and achieve the same torque from the 3.5T without the drop-off at higher speeds...
thats cool how you ran double shocks in the back
Trying to come up with a motor option for my riding type 50/50 off road/on road. Thinking a 8K but not sure on the 3.5t, 4 or 5. Any input would be great.
Go in the middle with a 4
If you have trouble with rim/tight tires splash a little ATF on it and let it sit a few hours... the rubber gets soft and pliable ( extreme case scenario).
My Qs 205 35H, 6T in a 24", isnt the fastest bike... but... has got some whoomp, let me tell ya.. and you got 4x the motor at least! Lol .
In minute 13:53 where did you get that chain drop down bar I bought a bike used that has no chain freewheel etc and I want to put on a basic single speed one atleast
The chain tensioner? Just Google that on Amazon and that will pop up.
@@JoshStreetDesign oddly I couldnt find but randomly found after you said what to look for, thanks alot www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3RBJL1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0709T7S94V6R8DCQGRQ5
Good video
the resistance you feel as the wheel spins down is known as cogging….magnetic resistance is normal for any direct drive hub motor. cheers.
Would you recommend the 5t for heavy load road builds or would you prefer the 3.5t?
Top video good descriptions but everyone's set ups are different my main problem with 3.5t myself is stopping it spinning lol and that's with 4" tyre and tyre lock to stop it spinning on rim from to much torque.
Power
Hi Josh, let's assume you would tune your 5t motor using field weaking, it should be more precise or faster than your 3.5t motor. I just think that this eats up the battery. Maybe you could try this function of the Sabvoton. Many greetings from Germany, keep it up. I think your videos are great.
Unfortunately no it doesn't work like that field weakening will only gain you like five to seven miles per hour max above the top without it... Think about it you can even do the same thing with the 3.5t which I did. But there's a difference once you hit 35 mph with the 5T it slowly then creeps up to 42 to 45 tops, whereas with the 3.5t it pulls hard all the way up to about 48 mph then creeps up to 55 to 60
What brake caliper mount adapter did you use. I cant fone one high enough also my caliper is touching the hub but also the wires are almost touching the rotor bolts so I can space that side either
Hope adapter. Just go to this page and pick the size you need. For the caliper space it out with washers, and for the wire just use a zip tie. www.fanatikbike.com/products/hope-disc-brake-adapter
@@JoshStreetDesign thanks
So the display you have accurately indicates your battery remaining status? Also which display did you recommend? I have a 72200 Sabvoton Controller...
Did you have to drill new holes with the saddleman seat?
Yup, sure did
Nice bike, omg I've been there myself so annoying. Wasted so many inner tubes. The best foolproof way I have found is to:
1: Lightly pump up the inner tube
2: Insect it inside the tyre before mounting
3: zip tie the tyre with the valve stem sticking out of the tyre
4: Insect the valve stem into wheel and work your way around.
Job done, everytime.
Funny, that's exactly what I did, ha ha. Just kept catching that tube. Practice makes perfect.
@@JoshStreetDesignLol ok I really can't see how though. Is that what you ended up doing? Because in the video you were doing one side at a time. The method I mentioned you do both sides at the same time,
@@kelvinks8018 oh wait you're saying do the zip tie method where you zip tie it all the way around? Oh man dude I tried that before and I could not get a tire on with that method to save my life, the tire was just too stiff and too tight.
@@JoshStreetDesign
squeeze the brake handle while holding tightin babamn! easy peezy.
Nope that doesn't work. Check out my latest video where I show exactly why
The cogging is from the magnets and their gaps between each other passing the poles.
I'm interested in the red bike stand you have. Can you give me a link to it?
It's a piece of crap. Go to a Harbor Freight and get theirs for $35, it's better.
Nice bike you have there. I was wanting to do something like this myself, eventually with a couple of sets of wheels. You could have a 5t with a dirt tyre and then a 3t with a road tyre for better rolling resistance and just switch between them depending on where you want to ride. Is that a custom seat? It looks a lot better than the regular moto seat for those frames.
The seat is from CAB motorworks, they used to sell it but they don't anymore.
Did you build your bike from scratch? I'd like to know where to get the frame...
yes I did. You can get the frame off Alibaba, or even ebay probably. It's the version 2 of the bomber frame.
pro tip: use soppy water around the tire when putting it on
Yeah I've done that before on dirt bikes but I find that I get better results with WD-40 mainly because it was less messy, ha ha
Super cool
Thanks brotha
That thing rips . Wait till it the warmer weather . Oh yeah!!
@@tobebike heck yeah man!!!
Hi there. Great video. Could you tell me the mic you are using? Thank you, Jeffrey
www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-EW-112P-Omni-directional-Microphone/dp/B07BRM3353/ref=asc_df_B07BRM3353/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693693825491&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11143304093168828588&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003813&hvtargid=pla-559359847661&psc=1&mcid=a460c47043973666a9ced4f518bfee5a&gad_source=1
@JoshStreetDesign Thank you, Josh
Hey, josh
Did you really pay $800 for the seat you have ?
Because I need it, but I’m not paying $800 for sure...
No I paid $450 for it. I'd have to be honest though if they are still selling it now for $800 and I was building another bike I would still pay $800 for it because it's the best e-bike seat you could possibly buy. Super high quality and majorly comfortable.
I'm currently planning out my build not sure on what swing arm I want. What ever one u have is the one I want is it the 170mm or the 155mm
You need the 170 for the 273 motor
@@JoshStreetDesign Thanks brother
I really want to build one like this, but more for road speed… what can you do to maximize speed as much as possible and how high can it reach? 75 mph is possible?
Sure, get a 3t motor, a good battery and a Bac 8000 and youll get close. Gonna cost ya though
Are you running the second battery through the BMS also ? Why don't you try a BMS bypass
The second battery has its own bms
@@JoshStreetDesign I'm same with my bike loads of torque, I have a 5t and it's top speed is 45 mph. Looking for best way to add power using what I have. I'm running 72150 and seem to be getting same speed as you. Starting to think the motor rpm limit on the 5t is at the max and the only thing possible to gain is a more responsive throttle and longevity. Keen to see where you go from here. Bac4000 looks fun.
What type of rear sprocket is on the back ? I want to change mine to make it easier to pedal incase the battery dies.
I don't know exactly, but it's small, looks to be about a 15 tooth or so
@@JoshStreetDesign is it freewheel? How does it mount?
@@_WADE13x yes, it threads right onto the hub
And you need to pinch the tire to the center of the rim on opposite side when installing a tire..
Hi would you recommend the 5T if I’m not going on the road much. Mainly off road
Iv just placed an order and didn’t research which motor to get. So I need to decide ASAP to message the seller back
I love the 5t for off road. It depends how fast you want to go when you're on road. It also depends on how your going to ride it. If you don't ride crazy and hard like me you might just like the 3.5 T better
5T will be slower than 3.5T motor I have a question my friend I purchased an 8000w bike from ali baba the supplier told me that the staff were giving you a free upgrade 2.5T motor which is the configuration for a 12.000w bike he told me that they use the 3.5T motor for the 8000W but they didn't have the colored rims option which I had picked on a 3.5T motor he also said that many of their customers prefer 2.5T over 3.5T motor as it is faster just the winding is different. I did some research and found out that the 2.5T will produce less toque at high rpm but higher top speed I hope he's not B.S**** me do you think this motor will have issues with a 8000w configuration
2.5t will have a higher top speed but will have slower acceleration. Use NBPower, ask for Raina. tell her I referred you. She will take care of you.
@@JoshStreetDesign I already purchased the bike it's being shipped I'll contact Raina for future purchases I appreciate your help, now back to the original question is the 2.5T an upgrade or did the factory just push this on me simply cause the 3.5T doesn't come with the colored rims options which one do you think is more suitable for an 8000w battery I'm asking for your personal opinion.
@@JoshStreetDesign Is their any advantages or disadvantages with the 2.5T will it effect my battery life?
@@banneduser978 No it will not affect your battery life but personally I wouldn't want less acceleration.
@@JoshStreetDesign I wanted the 3.5T but the supplier didn't leave me a choice so the only thing it'll effect is the torque your saying what if I get a 12.000w battery will that solve this issue
What is the frame of the bike called?
Thats some really high quality footage. What camera do you use?
The Sony A7Riv. I was using a crappy lens though. Ha ha
Yooo what mudflap is that?! Looks so good on the seat
The sur ron extended fender
@Josh Street Design awesome man thanks
No chain is the only reason I would choose a hub.. but then again I really enjoy my SurRon!
Yeah I hear you it's just that these places I ride I have to have the pedals to keep the cops off my back, and to be 100% silent in the woods... otherwise I would have had my bike taken already. Ha ha
My buddy has the belt drive on his surron it makes it pretty quiet I would like to see a different belt drive config like a bigger diameter rear belt hub
@@scottdmartin my surron has a 52t CDX kit
Hi mate recon you can help me out with my set up? Ive got the same frame as you just wandering what brake mounts you use? Also what pedal and crank system? Cheers pal links would be great 👌👍
Check some of my other videos, complete parts list in description.
Bro your setup is epic, I’m starting my build just now and I’m down under in Brisbane Australia, my biggest dilemma is should I go 3.5T, 4T or 5T… absolutely love your video’s man, keep up the amazing work
Depends on what type of riding your gonna do, if mostly on street, def get the 3.5
@@JoshStreetDesign legend! Thanks man, yeah probably 50/50 tbh… I love my bush tracks but I’ll be smashing the streets as well… I guess that’s why I was keen on the 4T…. Btw I think you’re RUclips channel should blow up, this is the future
@@guysmiley4872 thanks dude I really appreciate that I totally need to start making more videos I've gotten off the video training lately. Awesome I've just been enjoying riding Non-Stop lol. So then yeah maybe just go for the 4t have partial of both worlds
@@JoshStreetDesign honestly man, you have got the right formula to blow up, you keep it real, informative and fun, with great beats and amazing video footage … I look forward to your next videos… keepin the grind real 👌 even crocodile Dundee would enjoy your vid’s haha
@@guysmiley4872 ha ha ha, maybe I'll make one today then!
excellent video - did the 72200 add a lot of performance on the 3.5t?
It was no more noticeable for me than the 150 amp would be because that's what my battery is limited to so it wasn't really a fair test considering the battery limitation.
I'm curious where where you got the controller? I paid 330 with shipping from Alibaba for my 200a unlocked
I got mine direct from an Alibaba seller but I think I paid more than that and mine was locked
Which type of frame do you use(;? Where to buy?
Don't use my frame, It's Way too heavy and has cheap welds
Also, I'd like to see how that new controller works with the new motor.
I ended up sticking with the old controller because my battery is my limiting factor until I get up higher powered battery the newer controller won't make any difference as the BMS limits it to 150 amps. I put myself on the waiting list couple months ago for a nuclear 24f controller but that'll probably take forever. Maybe by December haha
That's a cool bike
What is the peak wattage ur running? How many volts is the pack? Max draw of the battery
Both batts 72 volt, primary battery 49ah, peak 150amp bms. Second battery 10.5 ah., 40 amp bms
Have you ever hauled a trailer with either motor, or weighed it down a y other way?
I'm considering putting a bike together using a 273 with high amp controller and battery.
Commuting and on site IT work.
I usually drop ship equipment, but I'll still need a trailer for haul-away and emergency swap outs.
The 273 is good up to at least 12kw, so that will help, and I'll be on surface streets to avoid traffic anyway, but I'm wondering with the extra rolling resist and mass if a 5T might make me happier.
I use a motorcycle carrier on the back of my SUV to transport either this or my dirt bike
@@JoshStreetDesign Not thr kind of trailer I meant.
A trailer behinf the bike - not carrying it.
@@Zomby_Woof ohhh, sorry. Then no, ha ha
How many hours and miles do you think you can go on a full charge with your current setup? Thank you
That totally depends on how I ride it and in what terrain. Offroad in sand with hard accelerations I average 18-20 miles with about 30% battery left. If was to just ride on the road conservatively, I could probably get about 40 miles.
What size rear tire is that your using in this video? Whole setup looks Great. Im thinking of going with a 110/100-18 setup
Nooo, that's to big. This is a 90/100-18
@JoshStreetDesign lol I love a Fat tire, I've got a custom frame & swingarm being made that will occomadate it. All my ebikes here have 26"× 4" tires, one has a 26x4.9" tire, so this next build I'll be using a 18" setup with the motorcycle 110/100- 18
So I can blast some ruts in the trails also lol
ruclips.net/video/f0vMIiqaM00/видео.htmlsi=t5VpFl9rhStQ3tGk
@@juice9767 Yeah but you don't understand, unless you're riding an Alta these e-bikes don't have anywhere near enough power to sufficiently push a 110 118 tire. Have you ever actually seen one? Do you ride dirt bikes? That size tire is big and super heavy and will suck your battery power down way faster. Look how big that tire is on that bike I have is perfectly fine for an e-bike.
@JoshStreetDesign I definitely understand & know the performance will be smothered somewhat, but I'm building a Beast that will be well over 30,000 watts, so the setup shouldn't have much of a issue.. And I'm usually done having fun riding in less than a couple hours just in some local trails. Just for after work fun whenever I can get a chance.
And I definitely was a big fan of the Alta, it hurt my heart that they went bankrupt I believe. But I'm 56yrs old now, and trying to relive my old 1985 kx80 days lol
Can I ask where you got the bracket that holds the rear caliper on I have the same frame
The rear bracket was already on the bike.
Hey can you help me with my wheel set up i have a stealth bomber frame
Help you how?
Great video!, where did you get the moto seat or how did you make it?
CAB Motorworks website. It's expensive but so worth it.
@@JoshStreetDesign cheers, all the stock ones go up way to much
@@PooleBayPressureWashing exactly. This one is super comfortable
How did you mount the dual rear suspension
With two longer bolts and two spacers. Easy.
Were did you get that seat fender combo and that rear dirt guard at the swing arm
Seat is from CAB motorworks, super expensive but worth every penny. Fender is the extended sur Ron fender. $30
Im from jersey too u gave ne some good advice
Where at bro?
what motor do u think is best for doing wheelies around 20mph ?
5t or 6t. Higher the number, higher the torque
what outside diameter that motor has? without rim
It's called the qs273 motor because it has a 273mm diameter. : ). Thanks for watching.
There are rumors about increase triple capacity of current batteries within 2-3 Years , can you guys imagine 100V 100Ah battery packet in our monster ebikes ?
False rumors
@@JoshStreetDesign Sad to hear that
Where did you get that CAB motorworks seat??
From CAB. They used to sell them, they don't anymore though.
@@JoshStreetDesign ugh devastating
5T top speed ?