i love this! like the rest of your videos I find them really helpful. One nitpick is i wish you'd change the intro music. Something about it makes me feel uncomfortable.
Thanks a lot! I think that's exactly what I need at my stage of progression. I can hang on tiny edges or add big loads on a 20 mm edges as long as I'm using both hands. But when it comes to hanging off one arm - I can barely hang on a 50 mm ledge. Probably due to lack of shoulder stability and overall not being used to that, kind of, unstable position. time to work on that, and I think, that it's going to make a huge difference in my climbing capability.
Great video, Tom! I started hangboarding this year after being around V7/V8 for a couple years. I use the Crimpd app which is great! Haven’t done really small edges, just have been doing max hangs on 20mm, but that has seriously improved my ability to hang with good form on 14mm edge on beast maker 2000.
Great video, but I have two questions/comments: 1. In the video you asses your max single rep at 10s, whereas in the crimped app, the test ist eine at 7s. Would be nice to have consistency here... 2. What would be a good percentage from single max rep to start a hypertrophy repeater workout? Thanks!
Hi Lattice, What do you think which method would be more effective? - Doing max hang on 20mm edges with extra weight (I do It 30 kg extra.) - Or doing max hang on small edges with less weight?
Hey! I've got a important to me problem to be solved and I will be very grateful if someone can answer that. Why should one switch from a 20mm weighted hangs to a bodyweight or removed-weight training on small and progressively smaller edge? What's the difference in aims of those two ways of training? Small edge training is more of a leverage matter in finger joints I guess so does that training hardens tendons more and the 20mm weighted targets our forearms? Thank you in advance for answers! 😊😊
Incredibly educational and great quality as always! Question, do you prefer this method of reduction training over progressively increasing load on a smaller edge (say 20mm)?
Thanks for the really clear explanation of the method. It sounds like this might be appropriate for me but I'm not sure why one would do this? Is it just to give us a different training stimulus, something that our body is not used to so we see gains or would you do this if you were preparing for rock with small holds? You also mentioned cycling this method. How long would a cycle be in your view? Thanks again!
Hi, I am finding it very difficult to find information about resting and fingerboard plans in general, and how they fit into long term yearly plans when I am doing a 4 -3 -2- 1 or 3-2-1 cycle , how to cycle through them, how exactly do repeaters fit into this. Are repeaters separate? I know they can be used with other plans. I usually hangboard 2 a week. mostly max hangs or small edges for around 6 weeks. Rest 1week. Should there be weeks where I add in repeaters as extra sessions or just do 6 weeks of them once in a while? 7a heavy climber (90 kilo), heavy sports background.
Regarding relative arm strength @ 17:46, why would it not be more beneficial to try and even out any difference in strength between the arms by choosing the max load for the weakest arm as the preferred load for both arms?
Thank you again for the great content. I would like to comment two things: First of all, I was very happy when Tom suggested the 3mm fingerboard files. I have a BM1000 at home (a Lattice rung as well of course) and I always found it a problem that it has no proper increments. Just 45 to 20 (which all of us now is closer to 18-19) and down to 14. So I made some files out of plywood and inserted it into the 45mm pocket. I would like to recommend it to anyone else, especially for hangboard beginners. Hangboarding should be done with caution and minor steps. My minimum edge training idea comes from Eric Hörst. He suggest to do 5x12 seconds per set on an edge, which you can hold for 15 seconds. What do you think about this? I pretty much like it and as my performance improves I enjoy it even more!
This may sound like a random question but i really love the music at around 6:13 I would like to listen to it while working out do you mind sharing what its called :)? Thank you very much.
As a boulderer, what finger strength exercise would be most important to continue doing through the year and consolidate? Assuming you move onto different cycles of focus
Hey Tom, as always marvellous video! I am having a general problem of understanding, when to train one armed or with both. Is there a certain threshold regarding added weight or min edge, at which point it makes more sense to go one armed to increase intensity? Further, I always feel like when training one armed my shoulders are the limiting factor, not the finger strength. So is there a general lock off strength requirement to be entitled to train one armed? Cheers Niklas
does it matter if you're hanging with slightly engaged shoulders or if you're locking off? i prefer locking off because hanging with even slightly engaged shoulders feels bad on my joints
Hi Lattice! So I've been doing max hangs for a couple weeks now, and noticed that I only feel comfortable in the drag position and can do max-hangs for 10 sec with 10kgs off. If I do a half-crimp with 16kgs taken off however, I feel my A2 ring-finger being very aggravated, as well as my pinkies. Should I reduce the intensity even lower and start training the half-crimp or continue training max hangs with finger drag? And is not training the half-crimp going to impair me later in my climbing?
Do you have to be squared on when doing single arm work? I do my single arm work facing to the side (similar to neutral grip one arm pullup), pulling as hard as possible while standing on a weight (measuring the strength)
I’ve bin climbing for over three years, bin training on the big edge of the BM2K for some months but haven’t bin able to hang one pad edges as my fingers always bend look like they would break through. Do you have any recommendations on how to strengthen my fingers?
L P in this case, we would suggest getting in contact with a coach and talking this through. Sounds like you need some 1:1 chat and a bit more of an in depth look at what’s going on.
Any recommendations to help with dry firing (sometimes rather explosively!) off of small edges? Obviously humidity and skin condition make a difference but it can be a bit intimidating to train small edges after coming off when you're not expecting it.
Doesn't this promote climbers back? Hanging without the shoulderblades engaged ? Wouldn't it be healthier to hang with the scalpular pulled back instead of being pulled to the front?
@@matthewthompson6455 strenghtening muscles all in the front of your body makes your shoulders move foward like an ogre. It's causes bad posture. Pro climbers invest 34924793 hours of training their backs.
Ok, I was wondering what the thumbnail was about. I think glimpsing that awful form might encourage someone to try it. The video is called how to hangboard. But the thumbnail image suggests how not to hangboard without any negative confirmation, maybe if you had put a red X next to it or something.
@@Benkkuful I have this program from Shauna Coxsey. She is the british world cup climber. She calls it anerobic hang board strength training. You do it with about 70-80% of maximum (anerobic training). 100% is what you can max. hang 7 sec.. I haven't done it until now, because this is a bit to much for me. I do the less intense aerobic training. This is for sports climbing more important to get endurance.
@@jonnes__4657 Yes they're called repeters I do them too. To put it simplified. Hypertrophy training increases the amount and size of your muscle cells, so yes it does increase your strength as well, but it's still different from what is considered "strength training" Which is more leaning towards the recruitment of existing muscle cells. For example doing one 7 second hang and then 3 minutes rest which would be 1 set.
This was amazing. You guys always cover some more of the secret stuff others don’t want to. Nice!
We try and take the attitude that there should be no secrets!! Otherwise we can't all move forwards, together as the sport :-)
Tip for making reduction inserts: get a 2mm sheet of balsa wood (+-1€) at your local crafts store and cut to whatever size you need with a box cutter.
i love this! like the rest of your videos I find them really helpful. One nitpick is i wish you'd change the intro music. Something about it makes me feel uncomfortable.
Thanks a lot! I think that's exactly what I need at my stage of progression. I can hang on tiny edges or add big loads on a 20 mm edges as long as I'm using both hands. But when it comes to hanging off one arm - I can barely hang on a 50 mm ledge. Probably due to lack of shoulder stability and overall not being used to that, kind of, unstable position. time to work on that, and I think, that it's going to make a huge difference in my climbing capability.
thanks a lot for the great advice and good quality video.
I was looking for exactly this information this morning and you guys were one step ahead. Excellent video!
Super glue on the finger tips works very well
Great video. Thanks
Great video, Tom! I started hangboarding this year after being around V7/V8 for a couple years. I use the Crimpd app which is great! Haven’t done really small edges, just have been doing max hangs on 20mm, but that has seriously improved my ability to hang with good form on 14mm edge on beast maker 2000.
How do you like the 2000? I just bought one myself
Great Video :)
Next one: How to spend your time in your 3 to 5 min tests. Ideally with other climbing exercises :D
Great video, but I have two questions/comments:
1. In the video you asses your max single rep at 10s, whereas in the crimped app, the test ist eine at 7s. Would be nice to have consistency here...
2. What would be a good percentage from single max rep to start a hypertrophy repeater workout?
Thanks!
Super handsome with the new haircut Tom! Awsome video too, thanks alot!
Hi Lattice,
What do you think which method would be more effective?
- Doing max hang on 20mm edges with extra weight (I do It 30 kg extra.)
- Or doing max hang on small edges with less weight?
Don't go below 15mm. Would do one arm hangs when you pass the 30kg range
Hey! I've got a important to me problem to be solved and I will be very grateful if someone can answer that. Why should one switch from a 20mm weighted hangs to a bodyweight or removed-weight training on small and progressively smaller edge? What's the difference in aims of those two ways of training? Small edge training is more of a leverage matter in finger joints I guess so does that training hardens tendons more and the 20mm weighted targets our forearms? Thank you in advance for answers! 😊😊
Incredibly educational and great quality as always! Question, do you prefer this method of reduction training over progressively increasing load on a smaller edge (say 20mm)?
Thanks for the really clear explanation of the method. It sounds like this might be appropriate for me but I'm not sure why one would do this? Is it just to give us a different training stimulus, something that our body is not used to so we see gains or would you do this if you were preparing for rock with small holds?
You also mentioned cycling this method. How long would a cycle be in your view?
Thanks again!
Hi, I am finding it very difficult to find information about resting and fingerboard plans in general, and how they fit into long term yearly plans when I am doing a 4 -3 -2- 1 or 3-2-1 cycle , how to cycle through them, how exactly do repeaters fit into this. Are repeaters separate? I know they can be used with other plans. I usually hangboard 2 a week. mostly max hangs or small edges for around 6 weeks. Rest 1week. Should there be weeks where I add in repeaters as extra sessions or just do 6 weeks of them once in a while? 7a heavy climber (90 kilo), heavy sports background.
Regarding relative arm strength @ 17:46, why would it not be more beneficial to try and even out any difference in strength between the arms by choosing the max load for the weakest arm as the preferred load for both arms?
Thank you again for the great content. I would like to comment two things:
First of all, I was very happy when Tom suggested the 3mm fingerboard files. I have a BM1000 at home (a Lattice rung as well of course) and I always found it a problem that it has no proper increments. Just 45 to 20 (which all of us now is closer to 18-19) and down to 14. So I made some files out of plywood and inserted it into the 45mm pocket. I would like to recommend it to anyone else, especially for hangboard beginners. Hangboarding should be done with caution and minor steps.
My minimum edge training idea comes from Eric Hörst. He suggest to do 5x12 seconds per set on an edge, which you can hold for 15 seconds. What do you think about this? I pretty much like it and as my performance improves I enjoy it even more!
This may sound like a random question but i really love the music at around 6:13 I would like to listen to it while working out do you mind sharing what its called :)? Thank you very much.
Use Shazam
As a boulderer, what finger strength exercise would be most important to continue doing through the year and consolidate? Assuming you move onto different cycles of focus
Hey Tom, as always marvellous video!
I am having a general problem of understanding, when to train one armed or with both.
Is there a certain threshold regarding added weight or min edge, at which point it makes more sense to go one armed to increase intensity?
Further, I always feel like when training one armed my shoulders are the limiting factor, not the finger strength. So is there a general lock off strength requirement to be entitled to train one armed?
Cheers
Niklas
Unfortunately I dont really have anywhere suitable to mount a hangbaord. Any ideas of how to train small edges without hanging?
does it matter if you're hanging with slightly engaged shoulders or if you're locking off? i prefer locking off because hanging with even slightly engaged shoulders feels bad on my joints
Hi Lattice! So I've been doing max hangs for a couple weeks now, and noticed that I only feel comfortable in the drag position and can do max-hangs for 10 sec with 10kgs off. If I do a half-crimp with 16kgs taken off however, I feel my A2 ring-finger being very aggravated, as well as my pinkies. Should I reduce the intensity even lower and start training the half-crimp or continue training max hangs with finger drag? And is not training the half-crimp going to impair me later in my climbing?
While training 1 arm hangs, which grip would be better to use ( open crimp or half crimp)?
Do you have to be squared on when doing single arm work? I do my single arm work facing to the side (similar to neutral grip one arm pullup), pulling as hard as possible while standing on a weight (measuring the strength)
Ofir Sinn no, it’s not essential. Being able to hang well in square and more closed is the ideal.
I’ve bin climbing for over three years, bin training on the big edge of the BM2K for some months but haven’t bin able to hang one pad edges as my fingers always bend look like they would break through. Do you have any recommendations on how to strengthen my fingers?
L P in this case, we would suggest getting in contact with a coach and talking this through. Sounds like you need some 1:1 chat and a bit more of an in depth look at what’s going on.
If you're climbing on bins I recommend filling them before use, creating extra stability which allows for powerful moves with less danger
Any recommendations to help with dry firing (sometimes rather explosively!) off of small edges? Obviously humidity and skin condition make a difference but it can be a bit intimidating to train small edges after coming off when you're not expecting it.
I recommend always using a pulley assistance to maintain a slight amount of forward pull. Throw on a 1kg assist and add weight to yourself offsetting.
hi is it truth that some lecture said that under 10 mm you do not training strength ? thans
Doesn't this promote climbers back? Hanging without the shoulderblades engaged ? Wouldn't it be healthier to hang with the scalpular pulled back instead of being pulled to the front?
What’s climber’s back ?
@@matthewthompson6455 strenghtening muscles all in the front of your body makes your shoulders move foward like an ogre. It's causes bad posture. Pro climbers invest 34924793 hours of training their backs.
Ok, I was wondering what the thumbnail was about. I think glimpsing that awful form might encourage someone to try it. The video is called how to hangboard. But the thumbnail image suggests how not to hangboard without any negative confirmation, maybe if you had put a red X next to it or something.
guys is always helpfull and i can see he knows what he is doing, but... who did that to his hair? poor guy
"... stay away from failure." too late buddy, too late
2:40
Lol I never thought people's hands are that small. For me that's less than a third of a pad.
that's solid sized fingers then! :-D
🐱👤 For finger max. strength training I do 6 reps (7 sec. hang, 5 sec. pause) and then 3 min. pause... 6 sets.
.
thats not max strength training...
@James Dazhong Cook And how many reps?
So repeaters? That's hypertrophy.
@@Benkkuful I have this program from Shauna Coxsey. She is the british world cup climber. She calls it anerobic hang board strength training. You do it with about 70-80% of maximum (anerobic training). 100% is what you can max. hang 7 sec.. I haven't done it until now, because this is a bit to much for me. I do the less intense aerobic training. This is for sports climbing more important to get endurance.
@@jonnes__4657 Yes they're called repeters I do them too. To put it simplified. Hypertrophy training increases the amount and size of your muscle cells, so yes it does increase your strength as well, but it's still different from what is considered "strength training" Which is more leaning towards the recruitment of existing muscle cells. For example doing one 7 second hang and then 3 minutes rest which would be 1 set.
Too much talk