Love my Autowit. Have never had to use it on any of my vehicles so far, but I’ve helped out several of my neighbors with dead batteries. Works every time
The trouble is, Autowit doesn't really compare with conventional battery technology. No other jump starter has the ability to scavenge energy from a drained battery. True enough, a charged battery pack will add to whatever is left in the vehicle's battery, as long as you remember to keep it charged up, and any diligent owner would do just that, but over time we forget these little tasks, then when the chips are down, we say "Oh that's okay, I have a jumper pack in the car!" - but just like that spare wheel under the floor, when you want it it, it's flat. This is where Autowit scores hands down, it scavenges enough power from the battery to charge its own capacitors, and can quickly discharge that energy for just a few seconds to get that engine turning over, and crucially, to get that first cylinder over the top of compression. Speaking personally, my car always starts on "first one over the top" so in that sense, any jump starter will suffice, but even so, the Autowit still gets my vote simply because it needs absolutely no maintenance at all, just keep it in the car, and it's always there. Even bails other people out of trouble - without wrecking my alternator!
I used Noco GB40 and had to remember to charge it every couple of months otherwise its no use just dead weight. When sufficiently charged, GB40 is good for 2 start and no more. Switched to Autowit Supercap 2, fantastic! starts every time and best is no need to schedule charging when kept.
I think most people would have preferred a real-life scenario where they find their car's battery dead and one of these jump starters was tested for them to see results for themselves. Tech guys might enjoy this video, but most people don't want to see meters and testers taking the place of an actual car being started with a dead battery.
I've had my Autowit for 1 year and a half and that is my baby, my savior. I even was able to jumpstart other strangers that needed a jumpstart with battery problems.
when using a battery tester like the Topdon for the best test use the lead post and not the metal terminal. You'll get slightly different results and accurate readings on the lead posts. I have the Autowit super cap jump starter that works great on very weak batt and with 6 volts left. Unless you have a very old car that still uses contact points, carbs then maybe the batt-type jump starter will be useful to have longer crank power. Mid-80s to present vehicles with newer technology with electronic ignition, electric fuel pump, FI, etc will start faster than the older models unless there is an issue with the vehicle. The batt type jump-start needs to be maintained meaning you have to keep track of the charge state for a long life and usually will only last approx 5 years if not well maintained properly then will not hold to its capacity. Compared to the supercapacitor type with no maintenance required you have to wait for approx 3-5 mins charge time and a life span 10+ years.
Yes, for accurate results with the conductance testers, the clamps really need to be directly connected to the battery posts. The clips use a 4 wire connection, so both sides of the split clamps need to be connected at the same piece of metal. The results are consistent and repeatable when the proper connection is made.
There’s one option not mentioned: both autowit and a lithium-ion jump starter! I have never had a jump start attempt fail with the autowit, and now use my jump starter as a battery bank for the autowit - with a 50% battery state of charge I can crank in about 3-4 minutes and be on my way. From completely dead, the usb charging takes about 6-8 minutes
That gives new purpose to the degraded jump packs that otherwise won't work anymore. I have old batteries that have enough energy to supply the super cap charge, but can't deliver the high current on their own for a starter motor. It's like using a garden hose to fill a kiddie pool, and then dumping the kiddie pool out in one shot.
I had a schumacher instant power 600amp in my tacoma for over 8 years, I think it still works, because my neighbor's v6 got light, but it didn't have the power to jump it like it use to.
I've got Schumacher DSR108 supercap units, and they're working out well for me along with the Autowit units. The $68 price for the DSR108 prompted me to get another just as a spare for lawn tractor use cases, even though I already have them in each of the car trunks that could be used. It has a lower current output capability than the Autowit, but has still proven sufficient in every instance I've used it.
I know it says the Autowit could take up to 1 hour to charge. In my experience, even low batteries charged it in less than 3 minutes except for one bad battery that was completely dead. I checked several other reviews here on RUclips and they all said the same.
Hmm. The battery based jump starters typically have a reverse polarity protection Schottky diode bank in series with the leads. It won't be fully conducting until it is under load. Your Topdon tester is only looking at the impedance of the battery by using a four wire circuit to eliminate wiring loss while applying either an AC signal or brief pulses. So, you got great impedance results with the Supercap, which connects with a relay, not a diode. If you test instead with your 100A resistive load tester, the Supercap will have a very high peak current but quickly drop in voltage. Your battery jump starters will likely do much better with a real load test. You know your Topdon 300-450 CCA numbers are off since the lithium packs really do start big engines.
If your car is unable to start without long periods of cranking, it would be best to get a battery powered jump starter that allows for longer cranking times. Usually newer cars maintained in good condition will not need to crank for that long though, so the capacitor charge is enough to start. A Camaro V6 I have takes the longest to crank over when peak current requirement of over 600A measured on my current probe and oscilloscope, and the capacitor jump pack worked every time so far. They need some familiarity with how they work, but I've been exclusively using the super cap types rather than the lithium ion packs just because they require no attention with charge maintenance.
What's the point of the Blue Fuel Jump Starter if it won't operate below freezing? If you can't keep it in your Trunk during the winter what's the point of having a jump starter for emergencies when on the road away from home if it can't be in your car when the temperature is below 32f and your battery is dead?
Would have preferred that he did these tests at 0F (-18C) when batteries lose about 60 percent starting capacity; cold slows down the molecular movement.
Auto wit hands down..Never fail me and I don't have to worry about batteries..ever.
Love my Autowit. Have never had to use it on any of my vehicles so far, but I’ve helped out several of my neighbors with dead batteries. Works every time
The trouble is, Autowit doesn't really compare with conventional battery technology. No other jump starter has the ability to scavenge energy from a drained battery. True enough, a charged battery pack will add to whatever is left in the vehicle's battery, as long as you remember to keep it charged up, and any diligent owner would do just that, but over time we forget these little tasks, then when the chips are down, we say "Oh that's okay, I have a jumper pack in the car!" - but just like that spare wheel under the floor, when you want it it, it's flat. This is where Autowit scores hands down, it scavenges enough power from the battery to charge its own capacitors, and can quickly discharge that energy for just a few seconds to get that engine turning over, and crucially, to get that first cylinder over the top of compression. Speaking personally, my car always starts on "first one over the top" so in that sense, any jump starter will suffice, but even so, the Autowit still gets my vote simply because it needs absolutely no maintenance at all, just keep it in the car, and it's always there. Even bails other people out of trouble - without wrecking my alternator!
I have one and love it...makes me feel safer when traveling..
I used Noco GB40 and had to remember to charge it every couple of months otherwise its no use just dead weight. When sufficiently charged, GB40 is good for 2 start and no more. Switched to Autowit Supercap 2, fantastic! starts every time and best is no need to schedule charging when kept.
I think most people would have preferred a real-life scenario where they find their car's battery dead and one of these jump starters was tested for them to see results for themselves. Tech guys might enjoy this video, but most people don't want to see meters and testers taking the place of an actual car being started with a dead battery.
I've had my Autowit for 1 year and a half and that is my baby, my savior. I even was able to jumpstart other strangers that needed a jumpstart with battery problems.
when using a battery tester like the Topdon for the best test use the lead post and not the metal terminal. You'll get slightly different results and accurate readings on the lead posts. I have the Autowit super cap jump starter that works great on very weak batt and with 6 volts left. Unless you have a very old car that still uses contact points, carbs then maybe the batt-type jump starter will be useful to have longer crank power. Mid-80s to present vehicles with newer technology with electronic ignition, electric fuel pump, FI, etc will start faster than the older models unless there is an issue with the vehicle. The batt type jump-start needs to be maintained meaning you have to keep track of the charge state for a long life and usually will only last approx 5 years if not well maintained properly then will not hold to its capacity. Compared to the supercapacitor type with no maintenance required you have to wait for approx 3-5 mins charge time and a life span 10+ years.
Yes, for accurate results with the conductance testers, the clamps really need to be directly connected to the battery posts. The clips use a 4 wire connection, so both sides of the split clamps need to be connected at the same piece of metal. The results are consistent and repeatable when the proper connection is made.
Please do a 2024 update to this video. Thanks!
Excellent experiment. Facts, hypothesis, and conclusion.
There’s one option not mentioned: both autowit and a lithium-ion jump starter! I have never had a jump start attempt fail with the autowit, and now use my jump starter as a battery bank for the autowit - with a 50% battery state of charge I can crank in about 3-4 minutes and be on my way. From completely dead, the usb charging takes about 6-8 minutes
That gives new purpose to the degraded jump packs that otherwise won't work anymore.
I have old batteries that have enough energy to supply the super cap charge, but can't deliver the high current on their own for a starter motor.
It's like using a garden hose to fill a kiddie pool, and then dumping the kiddie pool out in one shot.
Schumacher definitely has some great Jump starters and for a good price. But what is your experience? I know all of there Jump starters aren't equal.
I had a schumacher instant power 600amp in my tacoma for over 8 years, I think it still works, because my neighbor's v6 got light, but it didn't have the power to jump it like it use to.
I've got Schumacher DSR108 supercap units, and they're working out well for me along with the Autowit units. The $68 price for the DSR108 prompted me to get another just as a spare for lawn tractor use cases, even though I already have them in each of the car trunks that could be used. It has a lower current output capability than the Autowit, but has still proven sufficient in every instance I've used it.
I know it says the Autowit could take up to 1 hour to charge. In my experience, even low batteries charged it in less than 3 minutes except for one bad battery that was completely dead. I checked several other reviews here on RUclips and they all said the same.
Hmm. The battery based jump starters typically have a reverse polarity protection Schottky diode bank in series with the leads. It won't be fully conducting until it is under load. Your Topdon tester is only looking at the impedance of the battery by using a four wire circuit to eliminate wiring loss while applying either an AC signal or brief pulses. So, you got great impedance results with the Supercap, which connects with a relay, not a diode. If you test instead with your 100A resistive load tester, the Supercap will have a very high peak current but quickly drop in voltage. Your battery jump starters will likely do much better with a real load test. You know your Topdon 300-450 CCA numbers are off since the lithium packs really do start big engines.
If your car is unable to start without long periods of cranking, it would be best to get a battery powered jump starter that allows for longer cranking times. Usually newer cars maintained in good condition will not need to crank for that long though, so the capacitor charge is enough to start.
A Camaro V6 I have takes the longest to crank over when peak current requirement of over 600A measured on my current probe and oscilloscope, and the capacitor jump pack worked every time so far. They need some familiarity with how they work, but I've been exclusively using the super cap types rather than the lithium ion packs just because they require no attention with charge maintenance.
What's the point of the Blue Fuel Jump Starter if it won't operate below freezing? If you can't keep it in your Trunk during the winter what's the point of having a jump starter for emergencies when on the road away from home if it can't be in your car when the temperature is below 32f and your battery is dead?
Might need to tuck it under your jacket long enough to warm it up to operational temperature, or use a super cap unit.
I carry an Gooloo 4000 gt battery jump pack and an Autowit supercap2 just in case the battery i am charging is totally dead.
I have the capacitor one works for me
Would have preferred that he did these tests at 0F (-18C) when batteries lose about 60 percent starting capacity; cold slows down the molecular movement.
Ahh,The Infamous Wallyworld "Never Start" Battery.
heres a hint....keep the mic close to your face...
I'm guessing he only has the cam on a tripod and not a seperate microphone that he could clip on.
Napa auto parts home of blue fuel got it ty
Blue fuel hard to find retailer hmm
Autowit
Topdon is a made man 😂😂
Fox speed blew arse for sure