Thanks to this video and a PDF of where the break is, I was able to get my block apart and locate the break. Not visible to the naked eye, but the meter didn't show continuity. Soldered the broken wires back together. It will go back in the truck this afternoon.
Thanks so much for the video. The darn Trailblazer does not have Acc 12 volts in the stereo connector!!! so I went to the fuse box under the rear car seat to try and measure Acc 12v but in doing so I managed to widen the connector pinch spades internal to the fuse box with my DVM probes. ARRGH !!!! Going for extreme frustration, hope you noticed. Your video helped me get that fuse box fixed so as to get power back to my car radio. BTW, the radio fuse positive comes directly from the battery! It is so maddening how GM does things. No ACC connection in the center console at all which makes a person wonder how they manage to switch the car stereo off with the ignition key. I had to tap the TBC ACC fuse which goes IDKW! Thanks much!
At first, when you started hitting the box with a hammer I thought by the end of the video you were going set it on fire and dunk it in a toilet to put it out lol. Thanks for explaining and showing the drill process though, that's what I needed to see.
P1682 and P1516 were the main codes mine was throwing. No start when it was hot. Broken wire in the fuse box confirmed with a hair dryer and continuity test. 20ga doorbell wire did the trick.
Alan, thanks for posting! I have a question for you. What is the instrument you're using in your other video that's beeping to let you know where the broke wire is and where can I purchase it?
I personally didn't use an instrument, but I did include lt1swap.com's video link in my description that showed him using something like this www.amazon.com/Automotive-Tracker-Finder-Tester-Repair/dp/B00P0QKRG6 You will find that the break in the wire will always be in the same spot on all of these particular model fuse blocks.
Allen, thanks for replying back to me. What did you do or use to check for broken wire? And if I can't find it myself, is there a chance that I could send my circuit board to you for a fee?
Also Alan, the codes I'm getting on my 2006 Envoy Denali XL 5.3 are: P1516 P2101 P0443 P0689 When I first start the car it runs for about an hour and then shuts down. After it sits for 5 to 8 hours or overnight, you can restart it again. What do you think?
it was @@alansunday , at first it wasn't visible, but I took some pics with my iphone and the blew them up and it became visibly clear that the crack was there. i then took a needle and pried up on wire and it was completely separated. Thanks again for your video and your help!
I appreciate the video. I am going to use your technique to help my own fuse box. However, I have another question, off topic. What watch are you wearing? I'm a watch guy and that one is very nice!
Used ones here in South Carolina are hard to find. Just 7 bucks for the 20 gauge copper wire at Lowe's and I was able to fix mine. Also, if you buy a used one, it's a flaw from the factory, if the used one wasn't fixed, then you will be running into this problem again in the future.
its not hard to do at all, Sterling. Buying a used one will only delay the inevitable. I believe all the fuse/relay boxes are defective. the wire either has to be sodered or replaced.
My 2011 Silverado burnt the connector to the back of the junction box up where the headlight delay, fan relay, wiper motor, and a couple other things. Took me 2 months to find that harness cause everyone throws them away and now I was able to get a 2007 whole fuse box but there's different pins. So verses 2300 is the cheapest quote I got and another that was 3k to put in a whole fuse box this has only cost me 160 bucks. I was even willing to pay the 2300 but the shop couldn't locate everything that was needed so after they held my truck for a month I decided to do it myself. Still took me 2 months of talking to every ls guy across the country to get what I needed together but it was well worth it to save 2k. That money is going to a BMG cam swap and I'm getting rid of afm because the lifters are deciding to run away.......
Thanks to this video and a PDF of where the break is, I was able to get my block apart and locate the break. Not visible to the naked eye, but the meter didn't show continuity. Soldered the broken wires back together. It will go back in the truck this afternoon.
Thanks so much for the video. The darn Trailblazer does not have Acc 12 volts in the stereo connector!!! so I went to the fuse box under the rear car seat to try and measure Acc 12v but in doing so I managed to widen the connector pinch spades internal to the fuse box with my DVM probes. ARRGH !!!! Going for extreme frustration, hope you noticed. Your video helped me get that fuse box fixed so as to get power back to my car radio. BTW, the radio fuse positive comes directly from the battery! It is so maddening how GM does things. No ACC connection in the center console at all which makes a person wonder how they manage to switch the car stereo off with the ignition key. I had to tap the TBC ACC fuse which goes IDKW! Thanks much!
Much thanks dude, I could NOT figure this thing out and just knew I would end up breakin it, hard lessons learned over many years
thanks for this , I didn't know what to do with that code (P1682) found cracked wire inside fuse box and repaired, Envoy running great!
At first, when you started hitting the box with a hammer I thought by the end of the video you were going set it on fire and dunk it in a toilet to put it out lol. Thanks for explaining and showing the drill process though, that's what I needed to see.
Worked great to take it apart thank you 🎉
Thanks for the video. I think I'll try a uni bit (cone shaped bit) to drill mine out.
Thank you sir. Great video and intructions.
P1682 and P1516 were the main codes mine was throwing. No start when it was hot. Broken wire in the fuse box confirmed with a hair dryer and continuity test. 20ga doorbell wire did the trick.
Thanks a lot! Same as a Chevy S-10
Having issues taking harness off and the ones with green push lever too any vid of that? Thanks
In my experience, you cant really see the breaks in the copper until you apply heat & even then they are hard to spot.
Alan, thanks for posting! I have a question for you. What is the instrument you're using in your other video that's beeping to let you know where the broke wire is and where can I purchase it?
I personally didn't use an instrument, but I did include lt1swap.com's video link in my description that showed him using something like this
www.amazon.com/Automotive-Tracker-Finder-Tester-Repair/dp/B00P0QKRG6
You will find that the break in the wire will always be in the same spot on all of these particular model fuse blocks.
Allen, thanks for replying back to me. What did you do or use to check for broken wire?
And if I can't find it myself, is there a chance that I could send my circuit board to you for a fee?
Also Alan, the codes I'm getting on my 2006 Envoy Denali XL 5.3 are:
P1516
P2101
P0443
P0689
When I first start the car it runs for about an hour and then shuts down. After it sits for 5 to 8 hours or overnight, you can restart it again. What do you think?
It sounds like it could still be the broken wire in the fuse block.
it was @@alansunday , at first it wasn't visible, but I took some pics with my iphone and the blew them up and it became visibly clear that the crack was there. i then took a needle and pried up on wire and it was completely separated. Thanks again for your video and your help!
I appreciate the video. I am going to use your technique to help my own fuse box. However, I have another question, off topic. What watch are you wearing? I'm a watch guy and that one is very nice!
LOL, yes one of my favorite watches. Armitron 20/4935SV and glad the video helped!
thx for this.
Will a v6 fuse box fit the ss ?
No.
Never heard it called staged? Flared is what we call it
Swaged* phone always autocorrect
Why the hell would anyone do this when they can buy a used one
Used ones here in South Carolina are hard to find. Just 7 bucks for the 20 gauge copper wire at Lowe's and I was able to fix mine. Also, if you buy a used one, it's a flaw from the factory, if the used one wasn't fixed, then you will be running into this problem again in the future.
Buying a used one you're more than likely to get another defective fuse/relay box.
It's real hard to find an exact match used one, the part number has to match and GM wants $363 for a new replacement fuse block.
its not hard to do at all, Sterling. Buying a used one will only delay the inevitable. I believe all the fuse/relay boxes are defective. the wire either has to be sodered or replaced.
My 2011 Silverado burnt the connector to the back of the junction box up where the headlight delay, fan relay, wiper motor, and a couple other things. Took me 2 months to find that harness cause everyone throws them away and now I was able to get a 2007 whole fuse box but there's different pins. So verses 2300 is the cheapest quote I got and another that was 3k to put in a whole fuse box this has only cost me 160 bucks. I was even willing to pay the 2300 but the shop couldn't locate everything that was needed so after they held my truck for a month I decided to do it myself. Still took me 2 months of talking to every ls guy across the country to get what I needed together but it was well worth it to save 2k. That money is going to a BMG cam swap and I'm getting rid of afm because the lifters are deciding to run away.......