@@srtjunior7976 Yes in the beginning it'll tick until it builds enough oil pressure, but shouldn't last longer than a day, if so maybe something was not done right.
@@srtjunior7976 Possibly rocker arm, possibly a bent rod, but most likely a hydraulic lifter. Specially at higher rpm's, it'll be less efficient and cause more tick.
I just had this done to my 2012 Jeep Hemi. My mechanic told me that because there's not a lot of room to pull the camshaft, the job would be easier to pull the engine...which is what he did. But with this video I now see what he had to do! I like how the entire front of the engine can come off without removing the waterpump. I may do this later on to replace the oil pump with a high volume Melling oil pump so to prevent this lifter failure from happening again!
@@youtubegrass6932 my mechanic said it was an 11 hour job. Had to pull the engine out of the Jeep to do it! Had to schedule a month ahead of time to get an appointment where he would have 11 hours free. But it only took him 2 days to do the job and the Jeep's been back once to fix things like the front collision radar was knocked out of whack and there was an issue with some radiator fluid not staying where it's supposed to be.
You make it look easy lol awesome job. I have a 2014 with the same noise. Was recently told that the crankshaft was the problem by a tire guy but I haven’t taken it to an actual mechanic
Yes, definitely have a mechanic check it out...cranks/crank bearings almost never fail on stock hemis. It's the lifter/cams and/or an exhaust manifold bolt...
The secret to saving your cam and lifters is zinc. I have 160K+ miles on my 06 hemi. No ticks. I put a few ounces of Lucas engine assembly lube in the oil at each oil change. The industry removed zinc from oil about 20 year's ago and it has been wreaking havoc on engine's ever since.
That to be honest is a really good way to prevent, and or make it last longer since the lifter don't dry out, but I also believe it's an issue with the lifter since it gets stuck. Some of them bleed out, like the chevy, but the hemi's get stuck and locked up which starts smashing the camshaft lobe.
Sir you hit it right on the head. I 📚 read multiple articles from Engine Lab about Zinc, cat converters, load resistance, moly lube. Seems to proltect kitty🐈 cats the AMF pulled out Zinc. I buy Valvoline ZR1 and put in my 1980 car with comp cam.
Great video thank you very knowledgeable, I own two hemi 5.7l engines 2019 Ram 1500 and 2018 dodge durango RT, My suggestion is switch to high quality synthetic 5w-30 sooner the better, stable lubrication and higher oil pressure will let your hemi be bullet proof. Good luck and Good Bless 🇺🇸.
Wow, great video, you make it look easy but it obviously isn't. I'm hoping I'm retired by the time I would need to service my truck in this way... right now I wouldn't attempt it. Nice tools you use as well. Very informative and just the right speed. Looking forward to seeing more. Thanks!!!!
It has been determined that idle hours is the biggest detriment to hemi cam and lifter failures. (Police fleet service history basically proves this)Minimize idling, change oil frequently more at an engine hours interval than mileage, and the theorized true fix or prevention of the hemi tick, is to upgrade to a hellcat oil pump
But be careful with "upgrading" to the Hellcat oil pump.The difference in the maximum pressure (from 55psi to76psi) will cause the computer to throw a code which disables the MDS. The fix is to put a voltage splitter on the signal wire from the oil pressure sender unit to the ECM. It's a simple two resistor fix that will bring the oil sender information back into normal range for the ECM.
So you have to remove the other head too (& those lifters) to get the cam out right? Thats why you briefly showed 16 lifters? Or did you just replace all lifters on this side?
Yes, I don't think you can remove the camshaft without removing the load that's on the camshaft. It would most likely get stuck and same thing when reinstalling them.
Not necessarily. If you remove rocker rails then you can remove cam without removing the head, BUT you risk the lifter falling into the lifter bore and into the oil pan. Both heads should be removed to change cam and lifters. It's best practices.
This looks complicated brother 😕 I have the same issue with my truck 2012 ram ....I don't think I'm competent enough to do this on my own ...I can change my plugs but that's about it...what do you recommend? Find a decent mechanic or go back to dealership? And how much would a repair like this cost me ? Any info would help me so much thank you for posting this
I would ask around and find a decent mechanic, some machine shops will also do the mechanical work and they are very talented at what they do. I would say around $3,000 depending where you go, and what you need replaced.
@@houseofteks7474 yea guy wants me to buy a new engine because I ran it so long on the tick and the lifter was grinding or somthing and some metal shavings got in the motor idk...when I turn it on it sounds like there's a wrench in there lol idk what to do it's 8k for new motor with labor
Man I've watched 10 hemi instal videos but yours was the best. If you do another video . Could you not speed through the pushrod install. I ate crayon growing up. But you definitely saved me
Great work and like it’s been said you definitely make it look easy I was wondering if you could explain more about the timing chain that’s what makes me Nervous about attempting this what do I have to do to make sure I get the timing chain lined up correctly? Thanks in advance
Yes of course! I will be uploading another video soon about a different engine but I also got another Hemi 5.7 that needs that work done, common hemi tick, and I will record a lot better and explain more.
With so much metal debri though out the engine Would you recommend getting a new engine? ...or just replacing oil pump timing belt other components work?..where does all that metal debri exactly go? Does it All get flushed out after changing lifters and camshaft or does some of it stay inside small crevices Creating potential future problems ?
Definitely replace oil pump, oil pickup tube and oil cooler as they get in that pretty good. Always replace timing components if you undo any timing parts. A good flush should tackle most of the shavings and would be okay if you got to the problem soon as it started. Clean out oil pan as well. Currently going through this.
hey, I had the same problem with my car a 2010 Dodge Ram 5.7 and i did the same job and the car has a noise like lifters I saw your video and you said I have to drive. do you think that is it need to do?
If you replaced the camshaft and lifters, make sure the rods arnt bent and also that you are getting good oil pressure, maybe you got another issue that caused the camshaft and lifers to go out like oil pressure issues. Or maybe using the wrong engine oil.
2015 ram v8 5.7 I replaced the cam and lifters now the truck runs way more rough than it did. The CEL is flashing when previously it was only constantly on. Bad mechanic? Rpm is constantly high. Dont know what else to fix. Seems like it got worse than before i replaced the cams and lifters. Any suggestions?
Possibly that first issue caused other issues and that mechanic should've check things before reinstalling the new parts. Maybe when he removed the cylinder head, he accidently damaged a valve or spring. Maybe when he was torquing the rocker arms, he bent one or it was already bent? Possibly when torquing rocker arms he damaged where the rocker arms ride on. So many different things, I would take it apart again and check it out.
I noticed the lifters were place 180 from each other as the bleed off holes were opposite. Does this matter or what not sure but thought I would ask. Great vid. Thank you
With this type of failure did you get any type of code? I have a 06 300c ran fine and strong stop for gas went to start it just cranked but no start until you go half throttle then a rough idle with slight knock/rattle then stall.
Yes, just regular engine oil, just a little so it doesn't seize onto the cylinder head. You'll hear it when you torque, sometimes it'll squeak or be a lot harder to turn.
I always replace both sides, unless customer decides to only do one side, but never had a customer tell me only one side. I wouldn't warranty it if it was just once side, and or I might not even get my self involved into that headache that is coming down the road.
I was wondering should there be any play in the rocker arm from side to side also if there is play would it stop your truck from starting? Thanks I’m advance
Hi there Great video, I have a valve that is not opening, discovered it after removing valve cover, cylinder 4. Do you think that would also cause that cylinder to not have compression?
I'm not too sure what you are asking but you do always need to time an engine when removing the timing chain. What I did for this engine and timing chains similar to these ones was that I just marked it and made sure it didn't jump a tooth. Some engines are timing belts which work the same way but look different.
Only replaced one side or is that the only side you took off while filming how do you get the cam out with the driver side head still on? Is that possible?
Hey man I had a very important question I been dealing with this maybe for the past month and been trying to figure it out myself but I can’t seem to know what’s the problem causing this but my driver side rocker arms are loose both intake and exhaust and tried to tight them up but they became loose again they move side to side just a little bit I don’t think it’s the cam because it’s only on my driver side that’s making the noise n I know for a fact that it’s my rocker arms but I don’t know what’s causing that my rockers are coming loose I fight em up put everything together start the car and it’s still the same
Woo you have all that metal in your oil? Oil filter will bypass and metal will be in the bearings and piston skirts!!! How long do you figure it will last?
Well, if they knew what they were doing, when replacing the lifters, they could tell if the camshaft got damaged. If its lacking power it could be that it might be time to replace the spark plugs, maybe a coil is going out? Depending how many miles you got, it could be that you need a valve job, or a push rod got bent? Theres lots of things that could cause misfire and or lack of power.
I know this video is 2 years old but it just popped up and I'm very interested in this topic....... BUT, since when did camshafts (auto parts) come with an "expiration date????" 5:18
They are hydraulic lifters so you will need to run the engine for a while to build oil pressure and seat the rings and other stuff to break in. If you rebuilt it and haven't started it yet its because there is no oil pressure making the pushrods to feel loose. There is no adjustment for hydraulic lifters, at least not in the oem lifters.
I hear that you need to pre soak the lifters. Did you do that and have you had any problems since ( if you did or did not ) I’m getting mixed answers about pre soaking
Well when you buy them from the dealer they already come pre-lubed, I honestly wouldn't know the correct answer but once the engine fires up it pumps oil into them, I don't think it'll affect them to be honest if they aren't lubed since it doesn't take long for oil to reach the top of the engine.
They advise you to presoak, but honestly I don't know if it makes much of a difference. I do , for peace of mind but it's not going to help if the new parts aren't going to last because of quality issues (older lifter needle bearing design , or camshaft hardening issues).
So I have a 2013 Ram 1500 5.7 2WD, It’s throwing a Cylinder 7 misfire (P0307) and air ratio imbalance (P219A). I can feel a slight misfire while idling or stopped at a light. Not entirely sure why but when I did a injector kill test on it instead of sputtering the truck completely turned off and this happened on any cylinder on opposite or suspected bank aswell. Swapped the coils, plugs, crankshaft sensor, O2 sensors but still no luck. What I have noticed is that the 2nd time I put the new plugs in the truck lasted probably 40 miles before the engine light came on so I pulled the plugs out again and they looked pretty dark brown to black which didn’t seem normal considering they only been in there for 40 miles or less. Compression Test showed 160 or so. No smoke comin out the exhaust too. Any idea if it’s still possibly a cam or lifter failure
I kinda of wanted to lean more towards an electrical problem because the truck was wrecked and I had to leave the EPS disconnected overnight in order for it to work which it did but if you throw a scanner on it shows as the EPS is receiving no power but here I am turning the wheel with 1 finger, also airbag light is on but no airbags were deployed.
I would first fix the current issues if they could be related. If they arn't related, I would check out the wiring if the mechanical part passes. Possibly could be an injector that is spraying too much fuel?
I have a 2014 jeep grand cherokee 6.4 srt I have a nocking noise under the cylinder valve cover I opened and one rocker is open loss do I have to change the lifters and the camshaft please help
Dealership fixed mine 3 yrs and 50k ago. Its starting to do it again. Slightly different this time but the ticking is prevalent. Won't buy another Dodge Ram.
Well just depending what is repaired and how far the damage has gone. The ones I've done were closer to low miles so the shaving didnt damage anything else, was caught in time but who knows... these parts shouldn't even be getting replaced so early which is a defect from dealer.
I had a lifter fail at 150k on my 2013 5.7 Ram 2500 and this was a $2,600 job including heads being reworked😢. I never had a tick, it just went bad one day and ate up my cam lobe.
Hey Question on my ram 1500 hemi we replace camshaft and all lifters head gaskets and all and the truck still ticking can you please let me know if you can help me with that any information would be nice thank you
Check if you are getting good oil pressure, also to make sure you put in the right oil. I would remove valve cover gaskets to see if oil is reaching to all rocker arms. Also if you barely started it, may take some engine running time for lifters to bleed out so they can stop ticking.
Use 5w30 synthetic motor oil with mobil one or other high quality filter , Higher oil pressure at idle better lubrication for cam lifters no brainer, It mite go well over 500k -1000miles Wrong oil ,or keep listening Manufacturer and do your lifter and cam every 50k-100k.
@@JesusHernandez-bs6yr With the vehicle's vin number, the dealer should be able to get you the parts you need. I don't think they change part numbers, but I think I also showed them in the video.
Awesome man! I really want to learn how to install new valve springs I want to cam my truck but I’m scared to install the valve springs due to me never doing it before
Sweet, I've recorded a couple more videos, I just have to edit them, but its about replacing a valve spring that broke on a 2017 Ford Mustang 5.0. Most engines are all pretty much the same but hopefully I can edit it soon, I believe it'll be very helpful.
You can do it(cam and springs) without removing the heads. There is a type of spring compressor that bolts on to the rocker arm assembly bolt holes in the head and allows you to safely compress the spring and replace it. You will need a compressor and a spark plug adapter to pressurize the cylinder and keep the valve from dropping, or drop some rope down the spark plug hole into the piston and bring that piston at TDC when doing it. Many ways to skin a cat. Cam replacement only requires valve covers off, rocker arms and timing cover. Rotate the cam to push the lifters away and pull it out carefully. If you want to change the lifters however, you have to remove the heads, no workaround unfortunately thanks to Chrysler design...
@@DL101ca YUP! Thats true! The only thing that scares me is, what if the valve is slightly leaking or you accidently push down the valve, now the valve is stuck and you need to do the whole thing, but it's worth a try. I've seen people do it and be successful at it.
Currently replacing my lifters on 2014 5.7 charger and the cam is okay thankgod, but I’m just so nervous putting back together I’ve had the car for a year and only have been able to drive it 30 days total, car keeps breaking down on me doesn’t help being overseas a lot in navy and can’t fix always but the Head gasket blew, the rocker assembly snapped somehow when a mechanic did it, so now I do everything myself but As soon as it’s fixed I’m selling it. Never getting another newer mopar again
Have a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7, 96k miles, oil change 1500 miles ago, mother has been driving, heard a the loud noises out of no where, like lifters, no oil on the dip stick, added 5 quarts to make it full on the dip stick. No signs of burning oil. Dealership that changed the oil last, no says oil been evaporated and burning out the tail pipe. $3160 in parts, $2200 in labor, says collapsed lifter, cam shaft maybe damaged.
I know you said that you had to remove everything that was in front and just moved the condenser over to have enough room to remove the camshaft but dam! You’re standing directly in front of the engine as if the engine was pulled out and sitting on a stand. Am I missing something here?
Haha yeah! I had removed everything in front of the camshaft like you said, and I was pretty much standing up on a step stool sliding that camshaft out. Just as if the engine were to be on an engine stand.
Has anyone done a newer hemi swap in a mid-2000s Ram ...my cam/phaser is smaller than the new engines cam snout and the phasers are different so I have to switch them???? Any suggestions
I feel like this should be a recall on the 4th gens. Is common for the cam to go bad and lifters on the passenger side. But why does the excessive wear happen. See on my 2012 ram I use 10W-40 oil instead of the recommended 5w20 and as of right now I have no tick thankfully. It would be a pain to have to go through this process. If at some point my camshaft goes bad I would might as well upgrade to helcat lifters and I racing cam or something and have it sounding real nice.
I don't know the correct answer but I do know that the lifters get stuck, I don't know how, but it causes it to just keep slapping the camshaft lobe and it mushrooms it. But if you fix the ticking issue right away you wouldn't need to replace the camshaft.
@@houseofteks7474 usually the MDS lifters collapse(by design) and create this issue, but it happens on non MDS engines as well such as the 6.4 hemis in the HD trucks and that leads me to believe it's insufficient oil pressure and lack of lubrication at the cam/roller point where the needle bearings fail and destroy the cam lobe. It is a widespread issue and made worse by idling your engine extensively, where your oil pressure is the lowest.
@@DL101ca wow. Well thankfully my mds does not not even work which is why I have a check engine light on😭 and after watching this video and not drive the hell out of my truck trying to keep rpm’s above 1500 and rev it at drive through also
@@moemoe48210 i literally just hit 200k yesterday on my 2012 and no tick at all. Still using 10w-40 and MDS still does not work so eco mode does not cut on
Hey Great video. Looks like I might have to tackle this on my truck also. It's only a light tik right now. Was wondering if a sign that my camshaft is damaged would mean that there is some metal in my oil. I literally just got done doing videos on the manifold problems earlier this year. Now this. Lol.
If the tick is barely happening, you should be good hopefully. Look at the lifter's roller. Check if it's been slapping the camshaft, you'll be able to tell if it is.
You could try seeing if they visually damaged by just looking where the camshaft sits, but it's easier to just look at the camshaft journals to see if they are damaged just how the roller from lifter and camshaft lobes get damaged.
@@houseofteks7474 thanks alot! Attempting to do this project starting. Tuesday I will start . I have never changed out lifters and cam before and im afraid im going to throw it out of time. What is The proper method before i pull out the cam or even move The chain. ? Need all the help i can get. I haven’t order lifters and cam.Do you know where or who i can get a good quality part that isnt going to break the bank? Dealer sent me a quote for gaskets lifters and rods and no cam was in the quote. $2000 just for those parts which is insane.. Do i need to change the pushrods? Im currently driving the truck, damage isnt that bad i dont think but check engine light finally came on and im starting to lose power
@@houseofteks7474 The bearings a "Sacrificial" . They are softer than the cam, to protect the cam, So, just because the hard surfaced bearing area, of the cam is OK, that does NOT indicate the bearings are good. A visual inspection and measurement is the only sure way to assess the cam bearings.
This exactly what will be done to my truck by a different mechanic not dealership who wanted to replace entire engine on a 2013 Dodge because could figure out why had cylinder 5 misfire
@@ManuelRodriguez-wc1gw dealership will replace engine as it cannot guarantee the repair on an engine filled with metal shavings from cam/lifter failure. Fixing the cam just so your bearing can go next isn't a wise investment. If caught early enough, maybe there's a chance but not one they're willing to take just to save you money. Any mechanic worth their salt will tell you what the deal is and let you make the decision and assume the risk.
Changed my camshaft position sensor. Now I having a ticking noise. I moved the starter out of the way installed the part . I had trouble making the crankshaft flush. But now my new problem is the ticking. Anyone familiar with this situation?
I'm sorry about this video, having some audio issues and it was cut out :(
Was it still ticking after you changed the lifters because mine still ticking all new lifters
@@srtjunior7976 Yes in the beginning it'll tick until it builds enough oil pressure, but shouldn't last longer than a day, if so maybe something was not done right.
Can a rocker arm make that ticking sound or maybe a bent pushrod every time I accelerate the ticking gets louder
@@srtjunior7976 Possibly rocker arm, possibly a bent rod, but most likely a hydraulic lifter. Specially at higher rpm's, it'll be less efficient and cause more tick.
Are you available to do a camshaft and lifter job on a 2011 Ram 1500? Located in Santa Fe Springs, CA.
I’m a retired diesel mechanic and watched the young mechanic working on one
It maded my back hurt just watching for three hours
I have a 2006 RT Magnum and it makes the same noise. Might watch your video a couple hundred times before I actually do it myself
Yes, it's a very difficult job but if you got the basics down, it'd be a nice challenge.
You are an awesome mechanic. I'm an old Codger , I just got me a 2013 hemi 5.7 and I wished you lived close to me . Thank you for the video
Yeah of course! Thanks for supporting the channel :)
I just had this done to my 2012 Jeep Hemi. My mechanic told me that because there's not a lot of room to pull the camshaft, the job would be easier to pull the engine...which is what he did. But with this video I now see what he had to do! I like how the entire front of the engine can come off without removing the waterpump. I may do this later on to replace the oil pump with a high volume Melling oil pump so to prevent this lifter failure from happening again!
Yo my rt charger in there shop this whole November machanic is doing the same thing how long did yours take ??
@@youtubegrass6932 my mechanic said it was an 11 hour job. Had to pull the engine out of the Jeep to do it! Had to schedule a month ahead of time to get an appointment where he would have 11 hours free. But it only took him 2 days to do the job and the Jeep's been back once to fix things like the front collision radar was knocked out of whack and there was an issue with some radiator fluid not staying where it's supposed to be.
@@ekummel dang bro they just had to change the lifters and cam on my 5.7
@@youtubegrass6932 apparently in the Jeep, there isn't enough room to pull the cam out without pulling the engine or taking the entire front end off.
You make it look easy lol awesome job. I have a 2014 with the same noise. Was recently told that the crankshaft was the problem by a tire guy but I haven’t taken it to an actual mechanic
Would be a good idea to have a mechanic guy check it out. Thanks for the support :)
Yes, definitely have a mechanic check it out...cranks/crank bearings almost never fail on stock hemis. It's the lifter/cams and/or an exhaust manifold bolt...
Did you ever figure it out? Was it cam? I also have a 2014
The secret to saving your cam and lifters is zinc. I have 160K+ miles on my 06 hemi. No ticks. I put a few ounces of Lucas engine assembly lube in the oil at each oil change. The industry removed zinc from oil about 20 year's ago and it has been wreaking havoc on engine's ever since.
That to be honest is a really good way to prevent, and or make it last longer since the lifter don't dry out, but I also believe it's an issue with the lifter since it gets stuck. Some of them bleed out, like the chevy, but the hemi's get stuck and locked up which starts smashing the camshaft lobe.
Sir you hit it right on the head. I 📚 read multiple articles from Engine Lab about Zinc, cat converters, load resistance, moly lube. Seems to proltect kitty🐈 cats the AMF pulled out Zinc. I buy Valvoline ZR1 and put in my 1980 car with comp cam.
06 Hemi's never had an issue with cam/lifters, they can drop valve seats. 09+ started eating cams.
@@mph5896 so what's making my 06 hemi tick ..or what should I be looking for
I have a 09 with 293456 miles no cam issue Castrol oil mopar oil filter.
Great video. Helped a lot. Just did this to my Jeep srt8 same concept but it didn’t take me 14 minutes like you. 😅
Haha I wish it only took 14 minutes and got payed for that amount of work still
Great video thank you very knowledgeable,
I own two hemi 5.7l engines
2019 Ram 1500 and 2018 dodge durango RT,
My suggestion is switch to high quality synthetic 5w-30 sooner the better,
stable lubrication and higher oil pressure will let your hemi be bullet proof.
Good luck and Good Bless 🇺🇸.
Wow, great video, you make it look easy but it obviously isn't. I'm hoping I'm retired by the time I would need to service my truck in this way... right now I wouldn't attempt it. Nice tools you use as well. Very informative and just the right speed. Looking forward to seeing more. Thanks!!!!
Awesome thanks you so much :)
It's very easy Jeff pretty self explanatory
How long did it take u to do it? I'm about to tackle this job but I'm not sure how much to charge, thank u and keep up the great work!
To be honest, if I have all the parts, no more than 2 days. If I'm fully concentrated, about a day.
😂dont google it. It claims 10hours
I like the way you did this video. Wish you would make more.
Great video. Love to see actual steps and process rather than me me me crap. Thanks.
Thank you!
It has been determined that idle hours is the biggest detriment to hemi cam and lifter failures. (Police fleet service history basically proves this)Minimize idling, change oil frequently more at an engine hours interval than mileage, and the theorized true fix or prevention of the hemi tick, is to upgrade to a hellcat oil pump
But be careful with "upgrading" to the Hellcat oil pump.The difference in the maximum pressure (from 55psi to76psi) will cause the computer to throw a code which disables the MDS. The fix is to put a voltage splitter on the signal wire from the oil pressure sender unit to the ECM. It's a simple two resistor fix that will bring the oil sender information back into normal range for the ECM.
Melling High Volume Oil Pump solved all the problems. Part number MEL-10452HV
So you have to remove the other head too (& those lifters) to get the cam out right? Thats why you briefly showed 16 lifters? Or did you just replace all lifters on this side?
Yes, I don't think you can remove the camshaft without removing the load that's on the camshaft. It would most likely get stuck and same thing when reinstalling them.
Not necessarily. If you remove rocker rails then you can remove cam without removing the head, BUT you risk the lifter falling into the lifter bore and into the oil pan. Both heads should be removed to change cam and lifters. It's best practices.
This looks complicated brother 😕 I have the same issue with my truck 2012 ram ....I don't think I'm competent enough to do this on my own ...I can change my plugs but that's about it...what do you recommend? Find a decent mechanic or go back to dealership? And how much would a repair like this cost me ? Any info would help me so much thank you for posting this
I would ask around and find a decent mechanic, some machine shops will also do the mechanical work and they are very talented at what they do. I would say around $3,000 depending where you go, and what you need replaced.
@@houseofteks7474 yea guy wants me to buy a new engine because I ran it so long on the tick and the lifter was grinding or somthing and some metal shavings got in the motor idk...when I turn it on it sounds like there's a wrench in there lol idk what to do it's 8k for new motor with labor
Man I've watched 10 hemi instal videos but yours was the best. If you do another video . Could you not speed through the pushrod install. I ate crayon growing up. But you definitely saved me
Yes I'm sorry, I could upload another video without speeding through if you'd like.
“I ate crayon growing up”
Lol me too bro 😂
Great work and like it’s been said you definitely make it look easy I was wondering if you could explain more about the timing chain that’s what makes me Nervous about attempting this what do I have to do to make sure I get the timing chain lined up correctly?
Thanks in advance
Yes of course! I will be uploading another video soon about a different engine but I also got another Hemi 5.7 that needs that work done, common hemi tick, and I will record a lot better and explain more.
@@houseofteks7474 Thank you much. Can’t wait to see the next video.
Hug
With so much metal debri though out the engine Would you recommend getting a new engine? ...or just replacing oil pump timing belt other components work?..where does all that metal debri exactly go? Does it All get flushed out after changing lifters and camshaft or does some of it stay inside small crevices Creating potential future problems ?
Definitely replace oil pump, oil pickup tube and oil cooler as they get in that pretty good. Always replace timing components if you undo any timing parts. A good flush should tackle most of the shavings and would be okay if you got to the problem soon as it started. Clean out oil pan as well. Currently going through this.
Did you have to get your heads/block resurfaced? If not how did you clean it?
Great video, now to tackle this lifter problem myself.
Howd it go
Can you explain the rocker arms ? Are adjusting required? Or torquing each cylinder rocker arms at spec to TDC?
Adjusting not required, and yes it needs to be torqued to a certain spec.
Same issue same motor. Helped a lot thanks for your video 👍🏻
hey, I had the same problem with my car a 2010 Dodge Ram 5.7 and i did the same job and the car has a noise like lifters I saw your video and you said I have to drive. do you think that is it need to do?
If you replaced the camshaft and lifters, make sure the rods arnt bent and also that you are getting good oil pressure, maybe you got another issue that caused the camshaft and lifers to go out like oil pressure issues. Or maybe using the wrong engine oil.
We want another video! Lol awesome video really wish audio was fine best one ive found
Thank you! I'm working on uploading another video with better angles.
How much would you charge to do this on a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee trail rated edition
Or swap 2015 charger 392 engine
Just all depends, where are you located at?
2015 ram v8 5.7
I replaced the cam and lifters now the truck runs way more rough than it did.
The CEL is flashing when previously it was only constantly on.
Bad mechanic? Rpm is constantly high. Dont know what else to fix.
Seems like it got worse than before i replaced the cams and lifters.
Any suggestions?
Possibly that first issue caused other issues and that mechanic should've check things before reinstalling the new parts. Maybe when he removed the cylinder head, he accidently damaged a valve or spring. Maybe when he was torquing the rocker arms, he bent one or it was already bent? Possibly when torquing rocker arms he damaged where the rocker arms ride on. So many different things, I would take it apart again and check it out.
my 2003 dodge sounds just like this noise you showing on this video... is it worth fixing the cam and Lifter s or the entire motor
Well these engines are expensive as it is, just depends how bad you engine is.
Crankshaft pulley does not need to be pulled or did I miss something? Looks like it was attached to cover when removed
It was pulled, sorry video isn't the best. I wouldn't be able to remove the front timing cover if it wasn't removed.
I noticed the lifters were place 180 from each other as the bleed off holes were opposite. Does this matter or what not sure but thought I would ask. Great vid. Thank you
With this type of failure did you get any type of code? I have a 06 300c ran fine and strong stop for gas went to start it just cranked but no start until you go half throttle then a rough idle with slight knock/rattle then stall.
Brooo same.
Brooo same.
Great info and instruction. What lubricant did you use on head bolts? Oil or assembly lube?
Yes, just regular engine oil, just a little so it doesn't seize onto the cylinder head. You'll hear it when you torque, sometimes it'll squeak or be a lot harder to turn.
Did you replace lifters on both sides or just side that had bad lifter? Thanks
I always replace both sides, unless customer decides to only do one side, but never had a customer tell me only one side. I wouldn't warranty it if it was just once side, and or I might not even get my self involved into that headache that is coming down the road.
You put cylinder head without planing? Will it not be a problem with the gasket in the future?
Great video dude. Just one thing, is more better if u can explain how much torque have every bolt.
Yes I will totally work on that! Thanks for the feed back much appreciated!
You can find manual's on line now a days
question: if you are replacing it stock OEM do you still require a tune?? if so which one and which is beneficial??
No need to tune, I'm not modifying the engine performance.
I was wondering should there be any play in the rocker arm from side to side also if there is play would it stop your truck from starting?
Thanks
I’m advance
Maybe just a little if you are reassembling. Remember they are hydraulic lifters, and they can bleed out when removed or if you press down on them.
@@houseofteks7474 Thank you for your response.. I really appreciate it..
im having my 06 dodge ram 2500's cam and lifters done this week. you only took off the left head? thought both came off.
They both do, I just did it for the video, didn't include the other half but it was done.
Did you have to drop the oil pan at all? Can you do this in a garage at your house and not have to put it in the air?
Hi there Great video, I have a valve that is not opening, discovered it after removing valve cover, cylinder 4. Do you think that would also cause that cylinder to not have compression?
No, normally when valves are closed, thats when you get compression. Do you know why its not opening? Maybe bent push rod or broken rocker arm?
Do you put new cam bearings for the new cam or just check them with gauge and if their within spec you use them?
Yeah, pretty much just check them if within spec.
Is there a need go set timing? Or no? Sorry for the question I'm used to 4cylinder engines.
I'm not too sure what you are asking but you do always need to time an engine when removing the timing chain. What I did for this engine and timing chains similar to these ones was that I just marked it and made sure it didn't jump a tooth. Some engines are timing belts which work the same way but look different.
Only replaced one side or is that the only side you took off while filming how do you get the cam out with the driver side head still on? Is that possible?
Hey man I had a very important question I been dealing with this maybe for the past month and been trying to figure it out myself but I can’t seem to know what’s the problem causing this but my driver side rocker arms are loose both intake and exhaust and tried to tight them up but they became loose again they move side to side just a little bit I don’t think it’s the cam because it’s only on my driver side that’s making the noise n I know for a fact that it’s my rocker arms but I don’t know what’s causing that my rockers are coming loose I fight em up put everything together start the car and it’s still the same
Your lifters, once they cant hold oil and start bleeding out rapidly, they start making noise and dont hold the push rod and rocker arm stiff.
Woo you have all that metal in your oil? Oil filter will bypass and metal will be in the bearings and piston skirts!!! How long do you figure it will last?
I have a hemi RT and they just changed the lifters out but the truck is really lacking power should I try changing out the cam shaft ?
Well, if they knew what they were doing, when replacing the lifters, they could tell if the camshaft got damaged. If its lacking power it could be that it might be time to replace the spark plugs, maybe a coil is going out? Depending how many miles you got, it could be that you need a valve job, or a push rod got bent? Theres lots of things that could cause misfire and or lack of power.
I know this video is 2 years old but it just popped up and I'm very interested in this topic....... BUT, since when did camshafts (auto parts) come with an "expiration date????" 5:18
Thats a good question, possibly the paper and or shipping lube that may be on there that could dry out? Lol not too sure.
So I just rebuilt my engine everything is new.now I can't seem to figure out why my left side pushrods are loose.got any tips
They are hydraulic lifters so you will need to run the engine for a while to build oil pressure and seat the rings and other stuff to break in. If you rebuilt it and haven't started it yet its because there is no oil pressure making the pushrods to feel loose. There is no adjustment for hydraulic lifters, at least not in the oem lifters.
@@houseofteks7474 thank you I really appreciate it.
Thank you. I didn’t know cam shafts had a expiration date…
No issues before, no issues noted on any of the oil changes.
So the hemi engine rebuild what's your price I have an 2011 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 liter with ticking noise and code
For rebuild its more money, but it just depends on what failed.
How much of a problem or concern are the metal shavings that come from the cam?
Pretty concerning, could get sucked up back into the oil pump and cause serious damage.
I hear that you need to pre soak the lifters. Did you do that and have you had any problems since ( if you did or did not ) I’m getting mixed answers about pre soaking
Well when you buy them from the dealer they already come pre-lubed, I honestly wouldn't know the correct answer but once the engine fires up it pumps oil into them, I don't think it'll affect them to be honest if they aren't lubed since it doesn't take long for oil to reach the top of the engine.
They advise you to presoak, but honestly I don't know if it makes much of a difference. I do , for peace of mind but it's not going to help if the new parts aren't going to last because of quality issues (older lifter needle bearing design , or camshaft hardening issues).
New Hydraulic lifters should be soaked in engine oil for approx. 6 hours, before installing.
Dam you made this shit look to easy. Good shit right there
Thanks :)
Hey, I only have 2 hands, where did you get 4 hands when it was convenient?
awesome job buddy im going to rebuild a 2003 dodge ram 2500 you did good video thanks helps lots
Awesome thanks you :)
When I was doin lifters on driver side the 1st lifter was sticking up like it didn’t wanna push all the way in. Is that normal?
So I have a 2013 Ram 1500 5.7 2WD,
It’s throwing a Cylinder 7 misfire (P0307) and air ratio imbalance (P219A). I can feel a slight misfire while idling or stopped at a light. Not entirely sure why but when I did a injector kill test on it instead of sputtering the truck completely turned off and this happened on any cylinder on opposite or suspected bank aswell. Swapped the coils, plugs, crankshaft sensor, O2 sensors but still no luck. What I have noticed is that the 2nd time I put the new plugs in the truck lasted probably 40 miles before the engine light came on so I pulled the plugs out again and they looked pretty dark brown to black which didn’t seem normal considering they only been in there for 40 miles or less. Compression Test showed 160 or so. No smoke comin out the exhaust too.
Any idea if it’s still possibly a cam or lifter failure
I kinda of wanted to lean more towards an electrical problem because the truck was wrecked and I had to leave the EPS disconnected overnight in order for it to work which it did but if you throw a scanner on it shows as the EPS is receiving no power but here I am turning the wheel with 1 finger, also airbag light is on but no airbags were deployed.
I would first fix the current issues if they could be related. If they arn't related, I would check out the wiring if the mechanical part passes. Possibly could be an injector that is spraying too much fuel?
I have a 2014 jeep grand cherokee 6.4 srt I have a nocking noise under the cylinder valve cover I opened and one rocker is open loss do I have to change the lifters and the camshaft please help
What is the average cost to rebuild heads on a 2008 Dodge Durango 5.7. Himi. ?
Sorry not too sure, we sublet out machine work.
Dodge need they ass in court it’s millions of people have the same problem and people still buying the crappie trucks
does this fix the issue or is it going to have the same failure down the road?
Dealership fixed mine 3 yrs and 50k ago. Its starting to do it again. Slightly different this time but the ticking is prevalent. Won't buy another Dodge Ram.
Well just depending what is repaired and how far the damage has gone. The ones I've done were closer to low miles so the shaving didnt damage anything else, was caught in time but who knows... these parts shouldn't even be getting replaced so early which is a defect from dealer.
How many hours did it take. Excluding breaks or otherwise.
Just depending how fast you work, I think the book says some crazy amount of hours like around 30
did you have to retune the truck afterwards or is it just a straight up swap? thx jeff
Cam was stock Chrysler MDS , so no tuning required. If you go aftermarket non MDS , then you will need a tune to have it run properly.
Yup, no need to return unless you are going with aftermarket parts that change the way the engine runs.
Doesn't it happen all over again with those OEM parts? Why not upgrade the lifters and cam material?
It looks like once the rocker arms tightened there was some horizontal play still is that normal ?
I had a lifter fail at 150k on my 2013 5.7 Ram 2500 and this was a $2,600 job including heads being reworked😢. I never had a tick, it just went bad one day and ate up my cam lobe.
Hey Question on my ram 1500 hemi we replace camshaft and all lifters head gaskets and all and the truck still ticking can you please let me know if you can help me with that any information would be nice thank you
I started using castrol 5w30.
Check if you are getting good oil pressure, also to make sure you put in the right oil. I would remove valve cover gaskets to see if oil is reaching to all rocker arms. Also if you barely started it, may take some engine running time for lifters to bleed out so they can stop ticking.
Did you have to replace camshaft bearings
My truck is in the shop getting head redone and new cam. I really hope the engine lasts for a little bit lol. 6k into this ram now.
Fingers crossed! Yes, hopefully it should last a lifetime after that :)
Use 5w30 synthetic motor oil with mobil one or other high quality filter ,
Higher oil pressure at idle better lubrication for cam lifters no brainer,
It mite go well over 500k -1000miles
Wrong oil ,or keep listening Manufacturer and do your lifter and cam every 50k-100k.
Is there even a top dead center you need to be at or no??
According to the book, I personally just mark it where it was at so its easier than finding the stamped dots on the gears and the "colored" links.
One rocker arm is lose and nicking noise do I have to change the drive shaft
Hi did you remove only one engine head or both for replacement of cam???
Pretty sure you’ll need both off. You’ll need all the lifters off the cam to pull it out and the lifters are under the heads
Where did you get the cam and lifters from? Or did you buy a full kit?
I buy the parts from the dealer, more expensive but I’m confident that they will work.
@@houseofteks7474 do you have all the part number that you used for the replacements?
@@JesusHernandez-bs6yr With the vehicle's vin number, the dealer should be able to get you the parts you need. I don't think they change part numbers, but I think I also showed them in the video.
Thank you from KSA.
Thank you!
What u guys think of combining Juggernaut button (hellfighter kit) whit AR maglock gen 2?? It works perfect!!
Awesome man! I really want to learn how to install new valve springs I want to cam my truck but I’m scared to install the valve springs due to me never doing it before
Sweet, I've recorded a couple more videos, I just have to edit them, but its about replacing a valve spring that broke on a 2017 Ford Mustang 5.0. Most engines are all pretty much the same but hopefully I can edit it soon, I believe it'll be very helpful.
You can do it(cam and springs) without removing the heads. There is a type of spring compressor that bolts on to the rocker arm assembly bolt holes in the head and allows you to safely compress the spring and replace it. You will need a compressor and a spark plug adapter to pressurize the cylinder and keep the valve from dropping, or drop some rope down the spark plug hole into the piston and bring that piston at TDC when doing it. Many ways to skin a cat. Cam replacement only requires valve covers off, rocker arms and timing cover. Rotate the cam to push the lifters away and pull it out carefully. If you want to change the lifters however, you have to remove the heads, no workaround unfortunately thanks to Chrysler design...
@@DL101ca YUP! Thats true! The only thing that scares me is, what if the valve is slightly leaking or you accidently push down the valve, now the valve is stuck and you need to do the whole thing, but it's worth a try. I've seen people do it and be successful at it.
how much time for the full job, except the talking and filming part?
❤
Head bolts are not supposed to be lubed. Gives a false torque ready. But great video
I've never had an issue, just something I got used to doing, I don't think it gives an inaccurate reading.
Currently replacing my lifters on 2014 5.7 charger and the cam is okay thankgod, but I’m just so nervous putting back together I’ve had the car for a year and only have been able to drive it 30 days total, car keeps breaking down on me doesn’t help being overseas a lot in navy and can’t fix always but the Head gasket blew, the rocker assembly snapped somehow when a mechanic did it, so now I do everything myself but As soon as it’s fixed I’m selling it. Never getting another newer mopar again
Mopar's are really nice though.
These Hemi 5.7 are plug and play, simple engines. If you got the drive and equipment, you could repair them yourself.
Have a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7, 96k miles, oil change 1500 miles ago, mother has been driving, heard a the loud noises out of no where, like lifters, no oil on the dip stick, added 5 quarts to make it full on the dip stick. No signs of burning oil. Dealership that changed the oil last, no says oil been evaporated and burning out the tail pipe. $3160 in parts, $2200 in labor, says collapsed lifter, cam shaft maybe damaged.
Thats kind of crazy, should get a quote elsewhere see what they say.
Did you replaced the lifters with mds delete
No, customer was just trying to sell the truck and wanted no check engine light on.
I know you said that you had to remove everything that was in front and just moved the condenser over to have enough room to remove the camshaft but dam! You’re standing directly in front of the engine as if the engine was pulled out and sitting on a stand. Am I missing something here?
Haha yeah! I had removed everything in front of the camshaft like you said, and I was pretty much standing up on a step stool sliding that camshaft out. Just as if the engine were to be on an engine stand.
What oil was in the blue can? im currently replacing my lifters now
Love the video too by the way best one i have seen yet
How you keep crank from rotating when torquing the camshaft bolt?
There is a special tool to hold the crankshaft, but I wouldn't buy it unless I do these every day. I would just try to hold it and try to torque it.
Has anyone done a newer hemi swap in a mid-2000s Ram ...my cam/phaser is smaller than the new engines cam snout and the phasers are different so I have to switch them???? Any suggestions
How much does a job like cost?
I feel like this should be a recall on the 4th gens. Is common for the cam to go bad and lifters on the passenger side. But why does the excessive wear happen. See on my 2012 ram I use 10W-40 oil instead of the recommended 5w20 and as of right now I have no tick thankfully. It would be a pain to have to go through this process. If at some point my camshaft goes bad I would might as well upgrade to helcat lifters and I racing cam or something and have it sounding real nice.
I don't know the correct answer but I do know that the lifters get stuck, I don't know how, but it causes it to just keep slapping the camshaft lobe and it mushrooms it. But if you fix the ticking issue right away you wouldn't need to replace the camshaft.
@@houseofteks7474 usually the MDS lifters collapse(by design) and create this issue, but it happens on non MDS engines as well such as the 6.4 hemis in the HD trucks and that leads me to believe it's insufficient oil pressure and lack of lubrication at the cam/roller point where the needle bearings fail and destroy the cam lobe. It is a widespread issue and made worse by idling your engine extensively, where your oil pressure is the lowest.
@@DL101ca wow. Well thankfully my mds does not not even work which is why I have a check engine light on😭 and after watching this video and not drive the hell out of my truck trying to keep rpm’s above 1500 and rev it at drive through also
I’m at 124K on my 2012
@@moemoe48210 i literally just hit 200k yesterday on my 2012 and no tick at all. Still using 10w-40 and MDS still does not work so eco mode does not cut on
From all the RUclips videos I’ve seen yours is the best one . Everything nice and clear . By the way what’s the background song called ?
Awesome! Thank you so much I truly appreciate it! And sorry, I can't remember the song's name.
Hey Great video. Looks like I might have to tackle this on my truck also. It's only a light tik right now. Was wondering if a sign that my camshaft is damaged would mean that there is some metal in my oil. I literally just got done doing videos on the manifold problems earlier this year. Now this. Lol.
If the tick is barely happening, you should be good hopefully. Look at the lifter's roller. Check if it's been slapping the camshaft, you'll be able to tell if it is.
If it's a light tick it's definitely the exhaust manifold bolts broke
Is it for a 2500 or 1500?
That is exactly how my truck sounds
Very common defect.
Did you have to drop the oil pan??
I didn't, but it says you have to. I just let the chain sit ontop of crankshaft gear.
How do you check the camshaft bearings to see if they are OK or not
You could try seeing if they visually damaged by just looking where the camshaft sits, but it's easier to just look at the camshaft journals to see if they are damaged just how the roller from lifter and camshaft lobes get damaged.
@@houseofteks7474 thanks alot! Attempting to do this project starting. Tuesday I will start . I have never changed out lifters and cam before and im afraid im going to throw it out of time.
What is The proper method before i pull out the cam or even move The chain. ?
Need all the help i can get.
I haven’t order lifters and cam.Do you know where or who i can get a good quality part that isnt going to break the bank? Dealer sent me a quote for gaskets lifters and rods and no cam was in the quote. $2000 just for those parts which is insane..
Do i need to change the pushrods? Im currently driving the truck, damage isnt that bad i dont think but check engine light finally came on and im starting to lose power
@@houseofteks7474 The bearings a "Sacrificial" . They are softer than the cam, to protect the cam, So, just because the hard surfaced bearing area, of the cam is OK, that does NOT indicate the bearings are good. A visual inspection and measurement is the only sure way to assess the cam bearings.
@@mikeceli Totally agree, sorry I didn't show too much on this video.
lots of help. thanks for making this
Great video dude thanks for doing this
This exactly what will be done to my truck by a different mechanic not dealership who wanted to replace entire engine on a 2013 Dodge because could figure out why had cylinder 5 misfire
Awesome!
Dealership's are lame
@@ManuelRodriguez-wc1gw dealership will replace engine as it cannot guarantee the repair on an engine filled with metal shavings from cam/lifter failure. Fixing the cam just so your bearing can go next isn't a wise investment. If caught early enough, maybe there's a chance but not one they're willing to take just to save you money. Any mechanic worth their salt will tell you what the deal is and let you make the decision and assume the risk.
Changed my camshaft position sensor. Now I having a ticking noise.
I moved the starter out of the way installed the part . I had trouble making the crankshaft flush.
But now my new problem is the ticking. Anyone familiar with this situation?
Any codes?