Thanks. Videos like this are always useful to an amateur setup guy like myself, who has only begun doing it because everyone who does setups in town have closed up. I'm always struck how far back the 6th string saddle needs to be relative to the others in order to intonate properly.
to correct for a sharp note which direction do I turn the screw clockwise or counter clockwise. That would be an important piece of information to pass along!
If you had watched the entire video you would have seen that I went into this and actually had graphics on the screen. Just checked and yep it's there. Answers your question completely. Multiple times with even a handy statement that helps you remember which way to go. Does not tell you which way to turn the screw because it tells you to either move the saddle back or forwards. Kind of assumes you will be able to see with your eyes which way the saddle moves depending on which way you turn the screw.
Watched video again and the graphic, but nothing about CLOCKWISE COUNTER CLOCKWISE So, help a brother out which direction, thank you@@guitarcollectorguy
@@guitarcollectorguy Clockwise saddle goes back & lengthens strings, ( corrects for sharp note) thanks. I bought a squire sonic H as project guitar to learn the guts so to speak
I have one question to help me understand the neck radius gauge… if you already adjusted the string height according to your measuring tool’s recommended height, shouldn’t the neck radius already be adjusted properly? And if not, you’d then have to raise or lower the strings that weren’t in line with the neck radius gauge, causing the string height to differ from the original recommended setting from the string height gauge… So in this case, which would be more important? The string height gauge’s recommended setting or the neck radius setting? Sorry I’m new to this! lol good, thorough and informative video btw 👍
My nomad says to put a capo at the 1st fret (nut compensation), when measuring string height. I’m curious if you did this before you measured as I can’t seem to figure this out myself
You put a capo at the first fret and depress the 17th fret, then using a feeler gauge measure at the 6th fret for neck relief. I do not capo the first fret for measuring string height. I have seen folks who depress the first fret. I do not.
Great video! The issue im having is with the final intonation, no matter how much I adjust the saddles it doesnt affect the notes being flat on the G+B+E strings. Any idea what the issue could be?
Where did you get yours? I bought a Wilkinson one and somehow it doesn't line up right the way it's intended to. I wish parts had more photos and were a bit more transparent. It was right under the saddle screw and spring area.
I have this same bridge/saddle system, but the strings keep buzzing against the screws that you tighten/loosen to intonate them. I haven’t been able to play my tele yet because of this😕 advice??
I know this was a while back, but clear nail polish works to some degree on any rattling screws. Loctite blue or Permatex blue would work too, or you could use lower strength thread lock. I haven't used the thread locker yet and apply nail polish as needed. It is annoying and i have to try out some saddles like in this video soon. I still have the cheap block saddles on my Squier.
Hey! I just bought a 6 saddle tele bridge (havent installed it yet), but mine is a bit different, the string groove is on the right of the saddle and the saddles are closer to the left side of the bridge rather than the right side, and bc of that the string hole is beneath the saddle screw, so when i run a string through a saddle and pull the string, it rubs with the saddle spring. Can that break .09 gauge strings on the long run?
@@jamiemangrum776 great, thats what i get for buying shit from china, i'll have to drill holes in the old bridge plate to fit the new saddles the right way, i hope it works...
Thanks for this. Wouldn't have dared to do it, but you've made it very clear.
Thank you
Thanks. Videos like this are always useful to an amateur setup guy like myself, who has only begun doing it because everyone who does setups in town have closed up.
I'm always struck how far back the 6th string saddle needs to be relative to the others in order to intonate properly.
The low e string is an oddity. It always has to go back further than you would expect.
to correct for a sharp note which direction do I turn the screw clockwise or counter clockwise. That would be an important piece of information to pass along!
If you had watched the entire video you would have seen that I went into this and actually had graphics on the screen. Just checked and yep it's there. Answers your question completely. Multiple times with even a handy statement that helps you remember which way to go. Does not tell you which way to turn the screw because it tells you to either move the saddle back or forwards. Kind of assumes you will be able to see with your eyes which way the saddle moves depending on which way you turn the screw.
Watched video again and the graphic, but nothing about CLOCKWISE COUNTER CLOCKWISE So, help a brother out which direction, thank you@@guitarcollectorguy
@@derwoodstacknick5591 clockwise makes the saddle go back and counterclockwise makes the saddle go forward
@@guitarcollectorguy Clockwise saddle goes back & lengthens strings, ( corrects for sharp note) thanks. I bought a squire sonic H as project guitar to learn the guts so to speak
I have one question to help me understand the neck radius gauge… if you already adjusted the string height according to your measuring tool’s recommended height, shouldn’t the neck radius already be adjusted properly? And if not, you’d then have to raise or lower the strings that weren’t in line with the neck radius gauge, causing the string height to differ from the original recommended setting from the string height gauge…
So in this case, which would be more important? The string height gauge’s recommended setting or the neck radius setting?
Sorry I’m new to this! lol good, thorough and informative video btw 👍
Actually a very good question. Setting string height does set the radius for the strings. Thank you!
@@guitarcollectorguy thank you
My nomad says to put a capo at the 1st fret (nut compensation), when measuring string height. I’m curious if you did this before you measured as I can’t seem to figure this out myself
You put a capo at the first fret and depress the 17th fret, then using a feeler gauge measure at the 6th fret for neck relief. I do not capo the first fret for measuring string height. I have seen folks who depress the first fret. I do not.
Great video! The issue im having is with the final intonation, no matter how much I adjust the saddles it doesnt affect the notes being flat on the G+B+E strings. Any idea what the issue could be?
Thank you. We are talking about 6 saddles with a saddle for each string?
@guitarcollectorguy Thats right yeah! 6 saddle. The first E-A-D strings are fine but the G-B-E are flat from around fret 10 upwards
Where did you get yours? I bought a Wilkinson one and somehow it doesn't line up right the way it's intended to. I wish parts had more photos and were a bit more transparent. It was right under the saddle screw and spring area.
I ordered one on Reverb and it was an OEM (original equipment manufacturer) part from Fender. I was certain then that it would fit properly.
Here is the link - reverb.com/item/36356610-fender-telecaster-bridge-kit
I have this same bridge/saddle system, but the strings keep buzzing against the screws that you tighten/loosen to intonate them. I haven’t been able to play my tele yet because of this😕
advice??
They are moving against the screws? Meaning, are the somehow coming out of the string slots?
No...as you play , the tiny skrews that raise or lower a saddle, slowly work themselves loose and then buzz
I know this was a while back, but clear nail polish works to some degree on any rattling screws. Loctite blue or Permatex blue would work too, or you could use lower strength thread lock. I haven't used the thread locker yet and apply nail polish as needed. It is annoying and i have to try out some saddles like in this video soon. I still have the cheap block saddles on my Squier.
Hey! I just bought a 6 saddle tele bridge (havent installed it yet), but mine is a bit different, the string groove is on the right of the saddle and the saddles are closer to the left side of the bridge rather than the right side, and bc of that the string hole is beneath the saddle screw, so when i run a string through a saddle and pull the string, it rubs with the saddle spring. Can that break .09 gauge strings on the long run?
Yes, it will most definitely break the strings.
@@jamiemangrum776 great, thats what i get for buying shit from china, i'll have to drill holes in the old bridge plate to fit the new saddles the right way, i hope it works...
@@danielmcfarlan1035 don't beat yourself up. I have bought a lot of crap over the years.
Can you unscrew the saddle and turn it 180*
Great but you should order shorter maggot-screws for the saddles !