1998 Chevy K1500 5.7 stalling rough idle loss of power. Please like and sub. UPDATE IN DESCRIPTION
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- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2021
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The truck turns off while in idle. turns off at low speeds when making a turn and applying the breaks. 2000+ rpm when starting then slowly coming down. while driving on the high way she jerks like she has loss of fuel for split seconds at a time.
new fuel filter
new fuel pump
new plugs and wires
new cap and rotor
new egr valve
new mass airflow sensor
new air filter
new idle control valve
new throttle position sensor
new torque converter
new belt
new pulley
new tensioner pulley
intake gaskets recently replaced
new oil and oil filter ever 3 months.
new battery
#truck #viral #viralvideo #video #trending #trend #usa #america #american #chevy #silverado #blue #broken #brokenheart #love
It's your grounds. These old GMT 400 chevys had terrible, terrible ground straps. the passenger side one running from the firewall to the rear of the cylinder head would fall apart because it would just sit on top of the exhaust headers. Terrible design, but it's the only thing you said you haven't replaced and it is the most common failure point of these trucks.
I got similar issue. I thought I had bad luck. Then I read all these comments. U win
Check fuel regulator for your injectors. Also check your injectors make sure you have a good spray pattern and not a drip drip.
Check out the crank position sensor it will cause it to run rough. The distributor cap and rotor can cause the truck to stall. Stay away from aftermarket parts I have found they cause more problems stay with original parts.
Check the wiring harness, it’s to close to the front drive shaft and gets rubbed. You’ll see it touching the front drive shaft when you get underneath, just separate and repair those wires.
Fuel pressure regulator inside the intake.
Start at battery. Work your way through whole vehicles and clean all grounds or replace faulty ground straps. Then voltage regulator. Pressurized cooling system and if doesn't hold its intake gasket. Do spider injection and intake gasket. Replace distributor too. Check all sensors.
I’m having the same issue. It’s been going on for a few months now. I’ve always worked on my 94 myself, but this time I had to take it to a mechanic. The 2 times I took it, they said nothing was wrong. They said I just need to drive it, and not worry about it. But 3/4 of the time, I can’t keep it running. I told them it may be normal for these new vehicles to shut off at the red light, but not for a 30 year old vehicle. I’m sure the gas that’s produced these days are poison to the older vehicles. And something else I’ve realized, the factory sensors that lasted 100,000+ miles, when replaced, you’ll be lucky to go 20,000 miles before having to replace it again. Even AC Delco parts. Everything made today is so cheaply made, but cost twice as much.
You are 100% correct. The fact that everything in my truck is OEM and over 20+ mechanics in two years have no idea only shows me that the parts and mechanics are both cheaply made 🤣🤣🤣
My 99 tahoe runs like a damn champ. I had to re do the intake gasket. New plugs, oil change, the previous owner took really good care of it
Have you checked for a vacuum leak? My booster on my old 98 2500 had a small crack in one of the hoses causing a leak, once I replaced tge hose this stopped for me.
Idle control sensor
Mines was doing the same thing and I had recently changed the wires. Some reason I was otw home and it started bogging out. Didn’t wanna stay idling at low rpm and had the floor it. I changed the wires and plug the the best they had and mine been fine since. If not get a multimeter and check the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
All of that's already been done. Ac Delco
Be nice to have more information like, Live data stream of the fuel trims, 02 sensor switching, MAF sensor reading and so on. A lot of cheap scan tools can provide this vital information. Without live data it is imposable to diagnose over the internet.
Look at the pvc value 👍
Well, this is funny floating around on YT for a 'rich running bogging out 5.7' because my Gwenivere (1987 G20) started doing the same thing out of the clear blue sky! I know my brake booster is spongey and gasps when holding but she's always ran like a dream, the right side injector is really spraying and theres wet on the gravel from the exhaust. I just started throwing parts at her and think I will go after that booster diagnosis tomorrow.
Did you never find out?
@dooglefresh something with the security and wiring. Still no fix though. No one can figure it how to fix it
@@Salty_Krakenpine hollow auto diagnostics channel has 2 similar videos with your truck type symptoms. One solution was the 02 sensor. The other was the electronic module in the distributor but I’m not 100% certain going off memory. The videos will help I believe.
I was having similar problems with my '97 K1500 5.7 vortec and topping it all off I was having to replace distributor cap and rotor at least once a year due to it stop running altogether and after about the 4th time of that it dawned on me that every time I swapped caps I had to work around the A/C lines going from compressor to accumulator/dryer so I thought maybe condensation was running of those lines onto distributor cap so I got some foam pipe insulation and foil tape then when I replaced cap and rotor I placed the pipe insulation on both A/C lines and wrapped them with foil tape to seal up any drippage that may have been occuring. That fixed my rough running no power issue although I still have to replace cap and rotor but now it is only about every two years.
Your brake booster looks really old. Pull the line off the check valve and put your finger over the line so it doesn't have a vacuum leak and see if it fixes it. Your brake booster could be leaking and causing the issue.
Guys, check to see if your egr is bad but go one step further, ..check underneath the egr valve to see if the port leading to the egr is plugged full of carbon...hammer and small punch will be needed to chip the carbon out of the port
Did this already. Replaced the egr. Wire snake and vacuum to stick up anything to prevent engine contamination.
Then you got same issue I do catalytic converter ones clogged..bet
I have the same problem on my 92 suburban and I have replaced everything i think it could be. Someone told me to check my battery voltage after I've replaced all these parts. I thought to myself it can't be the battery it's only a few months old but sure enough it's showing on my meter about 4 or 5
Going thru the same thing, I seen a video where a guy removed the egr and sprayed up in the port holes and used a wire on a drill, i haven't tried it yet but thats next,,,,no ebay parts👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾 CHANGE COIL AND MOD, SPIDER INJECTOR,MAKE SURE INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET NOT LEAKING OR EGR GASKET LEAKING...BY THE TIME I FIGURED MINE OUT 🤔🤔🤔NEW TRUCK 😂😂😂OH YOU MIGHT NEED A WHOLE NEW DISTRIBUTOR
Maybe check uper intake manifold gasket
from what i noticed is your charcol canister line to intake hooked up?
My truck was doing this and it was the timing chain just getting loose with age (stretches out) but I also had slight problems with kick back at start so idk might be timing chain
My 88 was doing the exact same thing. I replaced the water temperature sensor that talks with the ECM. That's the 2 wire sensor beside the neck in the intake. She runs like a sewing machine again
I just did that on my truck and it still stalled out. Any other suggestions?
I had a issue with my 99 suburban wherey ignition failed and was causing things like this. Eventually it got to a point where i lost my fuel pump guage and ecm all at once. Changed new pump. All fuses and got almost all issuesues fixed. Eventually found the starter connections slightly loose. Cleaned everything grounding spots i could find.. cleaned andd tightened it and everything has been great aince
The wiring under the dashboard going outside can have a loose connection on a red wire and it will cause this problem as well. Hopefully you don't still have the problem with it now.
My 97 started doing this today I replaced distributor,cap,rotor,plugs,wires,coil,TPS,iac,spider,injectors. I noticed when I unplug my maf sensor it idles perfectly fine
Spider injection system gives a bunch of guys problems. Fuel pumps too. Of the gas tank has never been dropped, it's worth it to check the fuel hose on top of the fuel pump as they can get hairline cracks which are hard to notice. Connections inside get corroded sometimes, this can cause all sorts of problems also makes your gas gauge inaccurate.
I HAD THE EXACT SAME ISSUE AND DID THE SAME AS YOU!! lol brother I had the exact same issue. It was the Ignition control module in the distributor. I replaced everything for peace of mind but the actual issue was the ICM and I see that is the only thing you dont seem to have replaced. If I were you I would replace that and also go through the process of resetting the IAC and stuff and double and triple check for ANY vacuum leaks after your finished. I couldnt turn the steering wheel or put it in gear without it dying. I had to be on the throttle to keep it running. My issue was identical to yours brother.
It's been in the shop for 2 weeks and they can't figure it out. I talked with them Friday and they aren't charging me anything because they are puzzled. According to them they've checked everything electrical under the hood.
Weird man my 87 started that up and down idle crap and now she has been out of commission for a year and still trying to fix it. My newest clue is a blown head gasket do to the fact of some white smoke i did all the work on my chevy except the new transmission. This is all the work i've done-Distributor+cap+rotor-Ignition coil-Spark plugs-spark plug cables-EGR valve-IAC valve-Starter-battery cables-Battery-Electronic spark control module-knock sencor-Fuel filter- fuel tank+sending unit-fuel pressure regulator+housing+injectors-Vacuum lines-timing chain and gears.
Any answers
@@dominickbuenaflor7523 no. We replace the computer security module new extra strength battery completely replaced every known sensor and checked all grounds. I live down in Florida now and have dealerships and other mechanics completely stumped. I'm stumped. I'm about to yeet it into a bog and set it ablaze. Curiosity puts me $9.6k in the hole
@@Salty_Kraken don't do that we have to beat Chevy they somehow have flipped some switch that has caused all of our cars to do this. This is crazy we all have the same problem and all of our mechanics are stumpt
something what i had go on was that there's a Sencer on top of the intake where the top radiator hose goes to that was going bad on my 1996 chevy you can try that
It's in the egnition switch harness goes from the top of key down to side of steering colum pain in ass to switch out but it fixed my 1995 Silverado the pins wear out and shorts things out
check for vacuum leaks.
If i was you id replace the engine temperature sensor. It actually controls fuel regulation based on engine temp. It might have failed a funny way, totally worth a shot
My truck started doing the same exact thing, any answers?
It could be out of time. Check ur ur timing for 0 or just past.
Also check your main grounds like the block strap. Also make sure the alternator is charging, if you’re too low on voltage it can cause issues with your ignition system
Ours was doing that and I replaced the idle control valve and it changed it but didn’t fix it , the intake was leaking, fixed that , which made it better , I put a different idle control valve in it and the second one fixed it , dam Chinese parts!
Ck the ignition module. Pull the distributor cap and it should be visible. Sometimes if it is replaced and the dielectric grease is not used the module can get too warm and cause driveability issues
What kind of headers and those and where did you purchase them? Lmk thanks
Have you tried crank position sensor? I’ve came across the same problem but with no check engine light. I’ve changed cap, rotor, wires, TPS. I was about to go grab a distributor but ima try the crank position first. ( it’s a little cheaper) lol
Yes that sensor was replaced. No change unfortunately
Water is in 1 or more cylinders
@@markdollar9738 that would either cause engine locking or it would be blown out the exhaust if it was water.
I'm having the same or similar problem with mine and several other people I know. It's hard to start, it runs rough, has crap power and a scan doesn't show anything useful. I've swapped the spider injector for a used one I knew was good, it's been tuned up several times, several other parts replaced (I don't remember what all). It's been like this for about 3 years. Changing the distributor cap help a very little bit but only for a few weeks and doesn't clear it up completely. It has all new ac Delco tune up parts currently. About 6 years ago I installed a low milage rebuilt motor. I'm stumped
I just ordered a new ecm and a security module. If it ain't that I'm at a loss
Replace the distributor itself they are bad about chewing the gear on the bottem
That is just a guess but if the gear is bad the timing would be all over the place when setting base timing
Nathan check your throttle position sensor and your ect engine coolant temperature sensor on the intake the one in the head is just for the Guage the tps should be. 5 to1.25 volt range any thing higher or lower at idle is a bad sensor the volts should increase as the accelerate is pushed voltage should be no more than 5 at full throttle with a .75 tolerance
@@robertshafer6168 OK I'll do that. I've seen people do that to test tps sensors before but haven't done it myself yet. Is the temp sensor you're referring to the one near the thermostat housing or is there another one somewhere Wierd? Thanks for the suggestions
Hey did u ever find iut what was wrong eith it bc my truck is doing something similar
This is a same problem i got to i got a 1994 chevy silverado hd2500 and its doing the same thing you said really dont know what to do about it
There is a wiring harness underneath the drivers side dashboard that has a red wire that comes loose creating heat because it is not a good connection. This will cause the problem. You can unbolt it and look for heat discoloration. Like I said its the red wires on yhe bottom right side normally. I think that they never had the red wire harness completely plugged in on it in the first place. It just takes time before it starts to short out and get hot, causing the problem. I have also seen bad fuel pumps directly from the factory. So just because it is new doesn't mean it is good. Check the fuel pressure on the Schrader valve underneath the hood on the driver's side. Should be 55-60 psi to run. Should be closer to 60 psi to run correctly. Also it could be the fuel pressure regulator under the intake manifold that is the cause of your problem. Hopefully this helps some of you to find out what is going on with your 5.7 vortex Chevy. Good luck 🍀!
@jsharp1776 ill check the red wire. Fuel pressure is 60psi
@@Salty_KrakenThere are 2 of those red wires side by side. You'll notice that the plastic is turning a tan or brown from the heat. Good luck!
I have a 96 gmc 1500, was driving on hwy reved up to 4 grand stalled woulded start again, low to no oil pressure, now revs fluctuates put in gear stalls. Changed oil pump and oil pressure sensor, timing chain, new distributor cab rotor. Im going to check the fly wheel tomorrow. What ever this problem is seems to be a common problem that no one can figure out.
Having same problem update us soon?
Ive got the same issue on my 97 except you have to floor it to keep it running when it starts to die.
My exact problem w my 97 right now. Just changed starter never had that problem before.
@@jaceharrison3841 So far I've found that my camshaft position sensor is junk. New one hasn't come in yet so I don't know if its the only problem but Id recommend checking yours.
@@tranquility7692 did this work for you ?
@@jaydenbristol3021 Nope it was the coil and the coil driver/ignition control module
I would check that tps again...especially if it came from Amazon! ...double check alternator and 02 sensors fuel filter fuel pump....either not enough fuel or too much air ! Good luck hope you figure out your problem
All of it had been double and triple checked over and over. It's now in the 8th shop. No Amazon parts. Thank you
I have a 1996 GMC with the 4.3 vortec I replaced everything still runs rough all I did was unhook the mass air control sensor and it runs good
@@bobwest2825same problem wat was ur fix if u found out
It's definitely your distributor
Take throttle body off and give a good cleaning. Be careful with butterfly plate.👍
tried that and also tried completely replacing with new one. no luck
Is there any abnormal vibrations come from the engine? This may sound strange but check the harmonic balancer. I had one that wouldnt stay in timed right.
So I don't know that you're still experiencing the problems with your Chevy however I have a 96 K1500 there was stumbling and missing and rough idle all that stuff and I unhooked my entire emissions BS under the hood the mass air flow sensor the EGR that little line that runs from the top of the head to the intake the little sensor in front of the mass air flow sensor and hooked all that everything and it stopped missing and runs really good now it it's crazy because it's not supposed to do that but it sure does hook all that stuff up my truck runs like crap maybe try that with yours couldn't hurt nothing just took it back up
If ur temperature sensor doesn’t work that could be your issue
Control module In distributer. $30.00 part . Two screws done. Module is were wires plug into distributer. Ps: a bad cap and button can do it also.
Already replaced. Brand new distributor and cap and rotor
Check the power wire going from fuse block under hood too the battery thats most likely the problem they get build up inisde the wire that you cant se
My ninety seven tahoe did the same thing?My issue was crank position sensor
Change the spark plug wires
Have you bu chance checked the timing
Same problem with mine if I unplug my mas sensor it runs fine with high idle when I plug it in it does what yours does
I have a 96 Yukon 5.7 and it revs real high on start up and when put in gear....I have changed some of the same parts as in this video but still doing it....any ideas?
I have the same issue for my 1997 suburban. When I replaced my fuel filter, it did not release fuel as if my pump wasn't producing enough pressure to leave enough fuel for start up. When it does start it has the same symptoms as yours. I've done everything you've done as well and I'm replacing the pump again because it seems that in my situation is that my pump after replacing the fuel filter does not seem to produce enough pressure. It's also a new pump. I haven't checked my fuel pressure with a gauge, but I know that it doesn't matter because of the fuel filter removal with not enough fuel going through.
Sometimes you get a bad pump.
Having same issue in my 94 GMC sierra 5.7 tbi. When i go to take off she tries to stall. It starts and runs fine at idle but tries to stall when barely giving it gas
Yo that’s what’s happening to mines🤦🏾♂️
If you changed throttle sensor did you reset it after ?
Rpm bouncing crank sensor?
There's a sensor the goes to the charcoal canister and hoses.. same problem w mine
Did you change the knock sensor.
This is very upsetting, my 99 yukon has been throwing a p1351 code. Sent it to, two different shops and they still couldn't figure it out. I just got my car back last week. Been there since the beginning of November. Idk if it's the fuel sending unit. Someone on RUclips said he replaced the starter and the thing just started working. Blows my mind. I hope you can figure it out brother. If you do, keep us updated. 👍
Will do. I uploaded an update. Pinned comment
@@Salty_KrakenI don't see a pinned comment.
@@benwilson5893 problem hasn't been solved yet.
Just took mine in…it’s sporadic for me as if I have bad gas. Just replaced plugs and fuel filter. Gonna replace distributor and upper intake manifold gasket. Hopefully shop just tells me fuel pump and I’ll be good after that.
Worn distributor gear might be the issue
Unplug the tps will it's idling for a second
May be the crankshaft position sensor because mine would shut off but it wouldn’t idle high that might be a mapping sensor
It's not the MAP, I just replaced that one on mine doing the same thing.. but the Throttle Position Sensor is what alot of other forums have said this is,hence why it's up and down on the RPM idle,the Sensor is faulting and not properly telling the computer what your foot is doing or not doing.. basically it's shorting out.. mine inly started this right after my alternator went up last week,I believe with the alternator not charging and running the proper voltage it shorted out the 28yr old Sensor
@@Seven.And.The.RaggedTiger makes sense. Thw fsm says to check the tps first before diagnosing the map.
@Datascope002 I replaced both,still does it.. EGR maybe?Catalytic Converter?Throttle Body?.. IDK honestly
Im going to do a smoke check for vacuum leaks, fuel pressure check and possibly a leakdown test. my truck is bogging horribly when trying to drive down, wont even rev past 3500 rpm. good luck!
@@Seven.And.The.RaggedTiger
Did you ever figure it out I’ve been having the same issue for months and I can’t figure it out
I live in az it's cool in the morning and runs fine but have the problem when I go home when it's hot and dies on every right turn not the left
Gone pissed when he finds out it's probably just a fuse ... I have a 99 suburban ended up being grounds .. blowing the eng-I fuse over and over cleaned all grounds and it hasn't happened since... controls maf... crankshaft and camshaft sensors
My does that and i be having full tank but when it wants to bug out it smells like bad gas ⛽️
I feel like when these things hit a certain point carb swap it mine is doing this now and I’m gonna look into carb swap
It'd with a mechanic for the last time. If this doesn't work I'm scraping the truck
Did the same change a lot of parts but it was the fuel pump replace it again it work good but the first fuel pump was bad second fuel pump was good. Start to drive normal
I know one that most people overlook, try replacing your knock sensor. It will make your truck run like crap..
kinda having similar issues your having and have pretty much changed and done eveythibg youve done too, im having a valve leak at the top of spider and apperently when you put the upgrade spider in you have to change out the bracket that holds the spider, HK9 is part number. i just bought it from rockauto and hopeully it will fix it. after i changed egr thats when i really noticed vacuum leak on spider
I just got the truck back from the shop and it's a security issue with the multi switch in the steering column cutting the fuel pump.
that is interesting , you mind posting an update of that
@@Nicks_Garagee yeah your multi function switch is crazy. All electrical activity goes through it. Can cause a huge bunch of issues
@@Salty_Kraken first week front calipers locked up, then newer battery kept draining, then oil pressure switch, then oil pressure switch again because the truck didn't like a non ac Delco product, then fuel filter, then a rusted line, and now this. 🤣
@Cameron Temple so the multi switch as in the piece that’s for you’re blinker, cruise control and wipers? I’ve got a 98 that’s had just about everything you’ve done changed too.
Have you figured it out? Was wondering if it backfires going down the road at 50mph or more?
Mine does any fixes?
Gonna need to mod your distributor so you can rotate it, counterclockwise, problem solved
I have the exact same problem wt my 98 k 1500 Silverado
Next to the intake manifold
The Spider injectors on these motors are notorious for causing this problem. Check your fuel pressure.
I think you your ingition switch I've been working on my 1998 silverode
Idle air control valve
So i looked up on youtube my problem and your video popped up after seen how long its taking you im about to give up i just have one question? Whats the voltage read on your cluster when it starts for that 1 sec ?
It's taken me a long time due to my job. I'm a Trucker so it's not as easy as getting back to it so frequently
Never quit
Got it im in the same industry.. Only reason why i asked about the voltage was that i noticed my truck (98 Silverado) in my cluster when it started for that 3 sec or so the voltage would spike all the way up to the top so i decided to unplug the wire in the back of the alternator and it started to work just fine it not hard and it might help to try i know it makes no sense but to me it worked try it out and let me know good luck
Check your timing with these trucks you got to get it spot on
If the timing is off it will still turn on right?
Timing is just setting distributor to cam sensor. Advance/retard is controlled by computer
@Alex559k it can cut usually will set a crank correlation code. The offset has to be close to 0.
Try replacing water coolant temperature sensor
That worked for my 88. Your spot on
Already been done. It's with a mechanic now
UPDATE ON THE TRUCK.
ruclips.net/video/qvzHK3gkQi8/видео.html
Turn distrider few degrees
It’s your idle air control valve
Its still down. The temperature sensor has been replaced. I just got it back from the mechanic it's been at for months and they couldn't solve it. (Wasn't charged a penny) I'm at a complete loss. I live near cocoa Florida now and I'm going to research another mechanic that can try and figure it out. Someone somehow will figure it
its most likely your ignition switch
Could the root issue be a poor ground somewhere? My 1997 suddenly lost power, will idle, but just. No codes. Starting my search for an electrical problem.
Answer is: bad fuel pump! 20psi isn't enough. Pump was less than a year old, less than 2,000 miles on the pump.
Did you ever figure out what was wrong with er?.
We replaced the computer security module new extra strength battery completely replaced every known sensor and checked all grounds. I live down in Florida now and have dealerships and other mechanics completely stumped. I'm stumped. I'm about to yeet it into a bog and set it ablaze. Curiosity puts me $9.6k in the hole
Did u check the EGR vacume solenoid and it's hoses ?
It's on the firewall underneath the AC dryer
It's your spider
Its worn out at 250k miles :)
Mine is doing the same replaced cam long tube headers no cats wondering if it's the 02 sensors thinking of getting pcm tuned to compensate
Mine started doing it before I gutted the cats
My 97 just started acting up after I finally put an exhaust on after running open headers. Changed the o2 sensors after it wouldn't run and it didn't change a thing.
Nobody said the COIL I believe this is it
Bet you have a clogged MAP sensor. Doesn't always throw a code but it's an easy replacement.
Replaced the part and wiring is new
@@Salty_Kraken If that's the case I would start by checking your fuel pressure. These trucks are sensitive to low pressure. Also, I noticed you have 250K miles. Has the fuel injectors been replaced? The old poppet style is notorious for getting stuck and or leaking which was my case. Was causing my truck to stall and run erratic If your not getting enough fuel pressure from the pump it may not even be opening the poppets correctly. Also, check your cats and make sure they're not clogged.
@@laredo1307 yes. It's been to 7 chevy dealerships now 9 mom and pop shops and a couple different Firestones and auto care places. I'm so overhead with money dropped into Ol blue that I could have paid off my other truck already. When it turns off its because fuel pressure shuts off completely drops to zero. Have new fuel pressure lines new pump new wiring and no difference. Replace the security module and it helped for a day or two then same issue. Dropped brand new sensors completely under the hood. Opened the engine and the spider fuel injectors were in great shape.... I replaced them anyways. This truck has multiple dealerships and shops stumped.
@Killa Kraken take it to Pine Hollow Diagnostic or South Maine Auto. Those guys can fix anything
I have a 1997 and it does the same thing. if you find out what it is please share. I just replaced the EGR valve last week and it's still the same.
Did you ever figure out what it was?
Having same problem did you figure anything out let me know
@@joshbrown8226 same here 😂
Check ya timing
Have you fixed it? I’ve had a two of these trucks with the same issues for me it ended up being the temp sensor by the thermostat housing. Try unplugging the temp sensor while it’s running.
Its still down. The temperature sensor has been replaced. I just got it back from the mechanic it's been at for months and they couldn't solve it. (Wasn't charged a penny) I'm at a complete loss. I live near cocoa Florida now and I'm going to research another mechanic that can try and figure it out. Someone somehow will figure it out.
Thanks you fixed the issue on my tbi 350 I think with it unplugged it runs a lot better
The catalac converter is clogged and making it not switch gears right and making idle bad and stuff but can you rev it when you first crank then it goes idle bad
My cats are deleted with cold air intake. 😑