Had same problem on my suburban. My hold gasket was bad water was pouring on my distributor. Opened the distributor shined a light inside it looked like it had been laying on the bottom of the ocean totally corroded. I replaced the entire distributor fixed the problem. It still ran a little rough. So I dumped sea foam in throttle body. The entire can while motor was hot. Shut it down. Let it soak for 20 minutes. Started it up ran it hard around town for 30 minutes now it runs great. Idols smooth as butter.
i guess miracles happen every day, sea foam has been ruining engines for years hard to believe it worked for you. hundreds of tests have been made from big organizations showing how bad the product is. hard to understand how the public can be so gullible over such a bad product. at least it keeps mechanics in business
First thing to look for is a vacuum leak. Will cause all of the above problems. rough/low idle/stalling/rough acceleration and is the most inexpensive thing to fix...
I noticed on front of the throttle body it had a rubber elbow hooked up to it but no line which would cause a vacuum leak, it has been such a long time, truck is probably in junkyard by now
Seems that alot of people just put new filters on the injectors when they rebuild the tbi and think they're ok, these things get old I just replaced mine and got a smoother idle and better gas mileage.
Just spoke to the 6th mechanic who has tried to fix my 88 5.7. So far it's had 3 fuel pumps replaced 4 distributors, injectors, tune up, timing, egr replaced and either throttle body position or map sensor possibly both. And it broke down on the mechanic during the test drive. I laughed when he was so sure he'd fixed it. If when it starts it's usually fine but you'll be going down the road and all of a sudden it's like it's getting no fuel starts backfiring and will stall dead. Any ideas out there other than give up?
@@Aqoura so your truck is still messed up? I found a guy my last try, I haven't heard back from him yet. But he rattled off some other things to try. He was going to put a fuel pressure gauge on while driving it. He talked about the computer module behind glove box and ignition coil. He seemed to care I'd get my truck running again. Check back in 2 to 4 weeks I'll let you know how it goes. This fellow was referred to me by an elderly chevy owner. This mechanic is 72 and was elbow deep in an old tractor when I met him. I am optimistic. The last mechanic told me he did not think it was electrical just said it's on the fuel delivery side. Made comments about the yr of truck design not a good one scrap the truck. This fellow when I told him what the other guy said was clearly surprised and couldn't believe he told me to come get it without having fixed it. The saga continues.....
@@terrysmith1914 what's the update? My buddy's chasing down a similar issue right now on his 88. Replaced about all the same stuff you've listed on your original comment
I know how to fix’s that rough idle and doesn’t cost any parts to fix’s it. Only need 2 tools a hammer and fine point punch egr port out till it stops making the hunting sound and goes back to a normal idle. That’s an ol school mechanic trick hack works every time
Hey J Peyton, watching your video and noticed you probably have a vacuum leak, looks like right at the base plate level of your TBI, drivers side front you have a open ended 90 that appears to be suckin air?
96 Yukon 5.7, starts great with a bit of throttle, runs smoothly, but absolutely will not idle cold, and once its warmed up, chugs at about 400 or lower rpm. Any ideas?
@@jruiz6188 I have changed everything electronic, and am now being told the throttle body has to be thoroughly cleaned. Yukon runs great, no missing, good power, just won't idle at all when its cold.
Best replacement for the distributor is GM. No kidding, unless you’re after monster HP it’s the best part to use. It already lasted 100k+ mi. Worst? Accel , and the last few years MSD for these is sketchy too.
Just bought a duralast in a pinch money wise so I read all 33 reviews & took a chance.. very impressed sofsr with the quality & look, truck runs like new now w new d. & plugs & wires.. still chasing a random lope but I'm hoping for knock sensor or o2 as they are still original parts. I say this cause I'm ocd bad & dreaded buying anything other than a delco part
Just started to look into these problems. Just bought a 90. 4x4 shorty!! Everything works fine otherwise!!! Got a good one here. Payed$2000. Oo. Perfect body and interior!! Butt” truck needs a lot of lovin!!!!!!!!!!!
My 90 c1500 5.7 ran like crap. Idled great but couldn't drive it around a parking lot ran so bad in drive. Changed distributor and set the timing. Runs like a new truck
Truck wouldn’t spark , changed the ignition module that started it , but now you gotta gas it warm or cold until the idles stable , I’m thinking pickup coil or weak fuel pump
@@bcrou712 what ended up being your fix because that’s where I am. Sometimes it’ll startup and go fine and other it’ll not idle, with gas it’ll fire funny but run but if you let it idle it’ll die. Always turns back over and if you give it gas for say 40 seconds it stabilizes and runs just fine again till you turn her off and then on the next start you’re chancing how it’ll act
might be late but i recently got a 97 c1500 with a 5.7L, the truck runs fine and starts instantly when its cold but i drive for 10 miles, let the engine heat up and turn it off, when i try to start it, it will have a low idle and constantly die unless i give it some gas. The truck is fine when cold but fails to start reliably when hot, what could that be? it will also have a rough idle and rough acceleration when hot
I'm finding A More-often-than-not EGR problem,(especially if people run low in the tank and make a lot of short trips never really HEATING up the bad carbon build up)
im working on a 1994 gmc suburban 2500 and the it starts fine but when i put it in gear it cuts off unless i hold my foot on the gas. what could be the cause of this?
My 95 starts up but cuts off after 3-5 seconds and runs a little rough. I've replaced everything from fuel pump to all the sensors, even rebuilt throttle body with new injectors. I've got good compression and the timing is correct. The only thing else I can think of would be the distributor itself or the ecm. Only thing is I was told a bad pickup would cause a no start at all.
chili cheesemf they are some stainless steel headers that I got of eBay. It has one O2 sensor bung on the driver side but I don’t recommend because there’s not enough space to pull spark pugs without removing then every time you wanna do a tune up
Can anyone diagnose my 92 sonoma 4.3 tbi issue?. I'm stumped on it. It runs and idles fine. It just short shifts an bogs down after every single shift until ya get up to speed. The odd part is if I touch my brake pedal it clears up an runs normal. Like it's an vacuum issue. I used to be able to temporarily fix it an make it run right by pulling TV cable (700r4) an letting it slap back to position or stomping the gas pedal before cranking. Cause I've heard the throttle valve in Trans can get stuck. Also if it started acting up I could ride my brake pedal an practically throttle fuck the pedal an it'd clear up. Now nothing I do helps. It's here to stay.. changed tps an no difference. IAC and temp sensor on top of intake are within a year or so old but off amazon. Not ac delco. Tps is. Distributor popped an was changed with a $120 dizzy from auto parts store 3+ years ago. Brake booster changed with reman booster an master cylinder 5 years ago. 175k miles.
I can’t figure mine out. It’s a 1987 r10 350 tbi Runs great but low acceleration is rough. That’s what kicked me off the smog test. I did the iac,engine temperature control, knock sensor,map sensor,02 sensor, set my timing, rebuilt my tbi all new gaskets new injectors , rotor, I sprayed and can’t find any air leaks. I think I may try a new distributor next
Did the new distributor work for you? I have done the exact same replacements to no avail...sputters and hesitates until warmed up...low speed idle is rough.
@@LarsonFamilyFarm-LLC yes it did make a difference. To recap this is what I did ………. “replaced the throttle position sensor it seems everything I do makes it better for a min then goes bad. Just to recap it’s 87 r10 5.7 I never drive it a lot it’s got 89k original miles. It’s just been running bad lately. Timing is at 0. Anything I replace is not a loss to me yet. So this week I’ve rebuilt the tbi ,new injectors, new fuel filter, rotor, o2 sensor, map sensor,Engine temp sensor, Iac sensor, egr,knock, thermostat, alternator was draining my battery changed that, pcv and hose. I Did the ignition module but then I went ahead and bought a whole new distributor today but have to install tomorrow 11-02-2020. So if that doesn’t work I’m dropping the fuel tanks and changing the senders and pump” …..sorry for the repeat info I copied and pasted it. And ultimately yes the distributor made the difference. I passed with 0 yes I said Zero emissions.
Runs fine but I want to change the fuel pumps because of the age. I think I may just change the tanks and be done with it. Then I can start working on my 68 Camaro. Good luck brother hope that info helps
@@patpatt6434 Cool thanks Pat...good to know...i replaced my fuel pump and filter with all the other vacuum ignition fuel accessories...only thing left is the distributor. I will get to it. thanks
Sorry for late reply . But it was a wire running under the truck through the frame . It didnt have a rubber grommet so the wire rubbed until it grounded out I was so long ago I could Harley remember. But it was towards the front of the truck and can be found just by looking underneath and following the wires . It was an easy fix
Did anyone notice the missing vacume line at the front base of the T.B.I.? There is a 90 degree vacume fitting apparently open and sucking air causing a big vacume leak. Unless this was disconnected for the video, or plugged, it will definitely cause a problem!
I have a loping idle problem for 10 seconds when I start the engine after it's been running at operating temperature and then it clears up and it runs like a top
did you find the problem? 92 GMC VANDURA 2500 5.7 TBI runs great till it gets warm when i start it it surges and wont idle, i feather the gas and try to go till it clears up. runs fine again till i shut it off and go in the store and start it up again and does the same thing
@@spitfire27028 I put a GM fuel pump in the gas tank and changed the spring in the fuel pressure regulator in the TBI. It's helped a lot but it will sometimes do the surging thing when I start the engine after it's already been warmed up and sitting parked for at least 20 minutes. It only does it sometimes though. The only other thing I can think is vapor lock in the fuel lines
@@joeydrumstix how do you get rid of a vapor lock? does that mean i have fuel vapor and not liquid fuel in the lines? whay can be done? im sure it didnt do this out of the factory so something is going on. ty for replying!
@@spitfire27028 Yes vapor lock occurs in the fuel lines due to excessive surrounding heat vaporizing the liquid gasoline. Consequently fresh fuel from the tank can't get past the vaporized gas in the lines causing a stumbling for a few seconds. It happens more in carbureted motors but can still happen with fuel injection. Have you checked your fuel pressure?
My 98 vortec had the some of the same symptoms but mine is backfiring also already put new plug wires throttle position sensor now I dropping a new distributor in hoping it will fix it
My friends had that issue on a later model suburban. Everyone kept telling them they needed a new engine, it's a 6.2. Then after sitting at the Chev dealer it wouldn't start so they replaced the starter. Been working fine ever since. I think it might have been loose wire connections. It never made since that they needed a new engine.
I had a vacuum leak under my whole tbi I pulled it apart and put it back together carefully I had taken it apart to clean everything good and put the base plate on wrong re did it and my high idle was gone now I have too low of an idle lmao
I've got a 454 tbi...it cranks runs great for 50 seconds...and the tbi shuts off like a light bulb. I've changed everything....EVERYThing.... Nothing has fixed it.
@@jpeyton5064 1987 R30 Dually 454 TBI....I changed the fuel pump, Fuel Filter, Fuel Relay, Temp Sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor, Map, EGR, Runs great for 50 seconds....then shuts off like a light switch. I've checked all grounds and vacuum lines. Damn thing is killing me.
![Baby Kia - WYG (feat. LAZER DIM 700) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/avlLsOH_oJc/mqdefault.jpg)
Had same problem on my suburban. My hold gasket was bad water was pouring on my distributor. Opened the distributor shined a light inside it looked like it had been laying on the bottom of the ocean totally corroded. I replaced the entire distributor fixed the problem. It still ran a little rough. So I dumped sea foam in throttle body. The entire can while motor was hot. Shut it down. Let it soak for 20 minutes. Started it up ran it hard around town for 30 minutes now it runs great. Idols smooth as butter.
i guess miracles happen every day, sea foam has been ruining engines for years hard to believe it worked for you. hundreds of tests have been made from big organizations showing how bad the product is. hard to understand how the public can be so gullible over such a bad product. at least it keeps mechanics in business
First thing to look for is a vacuum leak. Will cause all of the above problems. rough/low idle/stalling/rough acceleration and is the most inexpensive thing to fix...
I noticed on front of the throttle body it had a rubber elbow hooked up to it but no line which would cause a vacuum leak, it has been such a long time, truck is probably in junkyard by now
Checked my injectors using a timing light, 1 had a funny spray pattern, replaced both, runs great now.
Seems that alot of people just put new filters on the injectors when they rebuild the tbi and think they're ok, these things get old I just replaced mine and got a smoother idle and better gas mileage.
@@martinez1701a They would last longer if there was'nt ethanol in the gas.
No the ICM is the black chip that screws to the distributer the pickup coil is the plastic round thing that plugs into the ICM
Truth I’ve replace an icm (ignition control module)
Dam ahahah thats definitely a common issue on all these trucks i thought it was just me at first
Just spoke to the 6th mechanic who has tried to fix my 88 5.7. So far it's had 3 fuel pumps replaced 4 distributors, injectors, tune up, timing, egr replaced and either throttle body position or map sensor possibly both. And it broke down on the mechanic during the test drive. I laughed when he was so sure he'd fixed it. If when it starts it's usually fine but you'll be going down the road and all of a sudden it's like it's getting no fuel starts backfiring and will stall dead. Any ideas out there other than give up?
Having the same issue changed fuel pump distributor and injectors
@@Aqoura so your truck is still messed up? I found a guy my last try, I haven't heard back from him yet. But he rattled off some other things to try. He was going to put a fuel pressure gauge on while driving it. He talked about the computer module behind glove box and ignition coil. He seemed to care I'd get my truck running again. Check back in 2 to 4 weeks I'll let you know how it goes. This fellow was referred to me by an elderly chevy owner. This mechanic is 72 and was elbow deep in an old tractor when I met him. I am optimistic. The last mechanic told me he did not think it was electrical just said it's on the fuel delivery side. Made comments about the yr of truck design not a good one scrap the truck. This fellow when I told him what the other guy said was clearly surprised and couldn't believe he told me to come get it without having fixed it. The saga continues.....
Have you replaced the O2 sensor? I had a similar issue in a 305 V8 and that was the culprit
@@atticusjohnson1602 ya the sensor got replaced same time as the exhaust manifold which had a bad leak
@@terrysmith1914 what's the update? My buddy's chasing down a similar issue right now on his 88. Replaced about all the same stuff you've listed on your original comment
I know how to fix’s that rough idle and doesn’t cost any parts to fix’s it. Only need 2 tools a hammer and fine point punch egr port out till it stops making the hunting sound and goes back to a normal idle. That’s an ol school mechanic trick hack works every time
I need to try this. Do you remove the EGR first?
@@UFOGHOSTHUNTER no not at all. 😂
Yup went through all that to find out it's the whole distributor all new parts don't afta worry about it for awhile 😅
Hey J Peyton, watching your video and noticed you probably have a vacuum leak, looks like right at the base plate level of your TBI, drivers side front you have a open ended 90 that appears to be suckin air?
Where's it go to? I'm pretty sure it's the purge canister?
96 Yukon 5.7, starts great with a bit of throttle, runs smoothly, but absolutely will not idle cold, and once its warmed up, chugs at about 400 or lower rpm. Any ideas?
Mines doing the same. Have you figured it out
@@jruiz6188 I have changed everything electronic, and am now being told the throttle body has to be thoroughly cleaned. Yukon runs great, no missing, good power, just won't idle at all when its cold.
Best replacement for the distributor is GM. No kidding, unless you’re after monster HP it’s the best part to use. It already lasted 100k+ mi. Worst? Accel , and the last few years MSD for these is sketchy too.
Just bought a duralast in a pinch money wise so I read all 33 reviews & took a chance.. very impressed sofsr with the quality & look, truck runs like new now w new d. & plugs & wires.. still chasing a random lope but I'm hoping for knock sensor or o2 as they are still original parts.
I say this cause I'm ocd bad & dreaded buying anything other than a delco part
Sorry but if the EGR has a hole in diaphragm it will be an air leak and it is a big problem..just my thought..good video.
Just started to look into these problems. Just bought a 90. 4x4 shorty!! Everything works fine otherwise!!! Got a good one here. Payed$2000. Oo. Perfect body and interior!! Butt” truck needs a lot of lovin!!!!!!!!!!!
Holy shit yours must be the twin of my truck I got a 92 shortbox 4x4 for 2000 in september
My 90 c1500 5.7 ran like crap. Idled great but couldn't drive it around a parking lot ran so bad in drive. Changed distributor and set the timing. Runs like a new truck
What distributor did u use
Truck wouldn’t spark , changed the ignition module that started it , but now you gotta gas it warm or cold until the idles stable , I’m thinking pickup coil or weak fuel pump
Did you find the problem? I'm having the same issue but I changed Ignition module and the fuel pump, soon I am doing the pickup coil...
@@bcrou712 what ended up being your fix because that’s where I am. Sometimes it’ll startup and go fine and other it’ll not idle, with gas it’ll fire funny but run but if you let it idle it’ll die. Always turns back over and if you give it gas for say 40 seconds it stabilizes and runs just fine again till you turn her off and then on the next start you’re chancing how it’ll act
might be late but i recently got a 97 c1500 with a 5.7L, the truck runs fine and starts instantly when its cold but i drive for 10 miles, let the engine heat up and turn it off, when i try to start it, it will have a low idle and constantly die unless i give it some gas. The truck is fine when cold but fails to start reliably when hot, what could that be? it will also have a rough idle and rough acceleration when hot
I'm finding A More-often-than-not
EGR problem,(especially if people run low in the tank and make a lot of short trips never really HEATING up the bad carbon build up)
Any updates? I have the same problem with my 94 c1500 5.7L!
Check ur ignition control module
im working on a 1994 gmc suburban 2500 and the it starts fine but when i put it in gear it cuts off unless i hold my foot on the gas. what could be the cause of this?
Torque converter
My 95 starts up but cuts off after 3-5 seconds and runs a little rough. I've replaced everything from fuel pump to all the sensors, even rebuilt throttle body with new injectors. I've got good compression and the timing is correct. The only thing else I can think of would be the distributor itself or the ecm. Only thing is I was told a bad pickup would cause a no start at all.
Fuel filter or egr
@@jeremijr A simple vacuum leak...
Remove egr...see if egr port is full of carbon...very common problem
Intake gaskets
try doing the first test you should have done, a fuel pressure test then compression
That line at the base of the throttle body goes to the map sensor, if it is leaking or off --- high idle!
It goes to the evap canister and won’t cause significant issues unless there’s another underlying issue.
My truck is a 90, 270k, but my little square module on the right side of the throttle body, I thought that was the map sensor on this truck, 😞
Hey what kind of headers are those? Do they have the emission hook ups? Also did you have any fitment issues?
chili cheesemf they are some stainless steel headers that I got of eBay. It has one O2 sensor bung on the driver side but I don’t recommend because there’s not enough space to pull spark pugs without removing then every time you wanna do a tune up
Sorry- throttle position sensor is what I was referring to
My problem was literally the cruise control rod slipping off the pin lmao. I had to replace everything anyway.
Can anyone diagnose my 92 sonoma 4.3 tbi issue?. I'm stumped on it.
It runs and idles fine. It just short shifts an bogs down after every single shift until ya get up to speed. The odd part is if I touch my brake pedal it clears up an runs normal. Like it's an vacuum issue. I used to be able to temporarily fix it an make it run right by pulling TV cable (700r4) an letting it slap back to position or stomping the gas pedal before cranking. Cause I've heard the throttle valve in Trans can get stuck. Also if it started acting up I could ride my brake pedal an practically throttle fuck the pedal an it'd clear up. Now nothing I do helps. It's here to stay.. changed tps an no difference. IAC and temp sensor on top of intake are within a year or so old but off amazon. Not ac delco. Tps is. Distributor popped an was changed with a $120 dizzy from auto parts store 3+ years ago. Brake booster changed with reman booster an master cylinder 5 years ago. 175k miles.
Looks like that air filter could be changed. That would help also.
Take a good look at the lid lol. Necessity is the mother of invention. 🤣
Fuel pressure sensor and coolant temp Sensor
I can’t figure mine out. It’s a 1987 r10 350 tbi Runs great but low acceleration is rough. That’s what kicked me off the smog test. I did the iac,engine temperature control, knock sensor,map sensor,02 sensor, set my timing, rebuilt my tbi all new gaskets new injectors , rotor, I sprayed and can’t find any air leaks. I think I may try a new distributor next
Did the new distributor work for you? I have done the exact same replacements to no avail...sputters and hesitates until warmed up...low speed idle is rough.
@@LarsonFamilyFarm-LLC yes it did make a difference. To recap this is what I did ……….
“replaced the throttle position sensor it seems everything I do makes it better for a min then goes bad. Just to recap it’s 87 r10 5.7 I never drive it a lot it’s got 89k original miles. It’s just been running bad lately. Timing is at 0. Anything I replace is not a loss to me yet. So this week I’ve rebuilt the tbi ,new injectors, new fuel filter, rotor, o2 sensor, map sensor,Engine temp sensor, Iac sensor, egr,knock, thermostat, alternator was draining my battery changed that, pcv and hose. I Did the ignition module but then I went ahead and bought a whole new distributor today but have to install tomorrow 11-02-2020. So if that doesn’t work I’m dropping the fuel tanks and changing the senders and pump” …..sorry for the repeat info I copied and pasted it. And ultimately yes the distributor made the difference. I passed with 0 yes I said Zero emissions.
Totally worth all I did because it would have been about 2 grand at a shop. I’m sure it was under 500 in parts
Runs fine but I want to change the fuel pumps because of the age. I think I may just change the tanks and be done with it. Then I can start working on my 68 Camaro. Good luck brother hope that info helps
@@patpatt6434 Cool thanks Pat...good to know...i replaced my fuel pump and filter with all the other vacuum ignition fuel accessories...only thing left is the distributor. I will get to it. thanks
My fo fifty fo did da same thang. I took it to da white man down at midas and my cat was stopped up. He got da big block Chevy runnin strong now.
@@interceptor-sc he did bro.
I bought a rebuilt distributor top and everything, pretty sure its dead center but it's still idling rough
I like your truck man
I had the same thing happen with my 93 . It was a wire that frayed was making contact with the frame.
What wire was frayed and what was location?
do tell
Sorry for late reply . But it was a wire running under the truck through the frame . It didnt have a rubber grommet so the wire rubbed until it grounded out
I was so long ago I could Harley remember. But it was towards the front of the truck and can be found just by looking underneath and following the wires . It was an easy fix
How did you find it what was it coming from and going too?
@@terrysmith1914 i traced the wires from the tail lights and worked my way toward the front and found it . Its was a wire leading along the frame rail
My 96 chevy 5.7 has high idl but when i press gass peddle its slow and doing drive faster any idea
First thing to check is plugs wire if all have spark then it has nothing to do with coils or distributor cap,,,,simple as that folks,,,
Had a completely restored truck and got rid of it for this exact reason, such a shame.
Did anyone notice the missing vacume line at the front base of the T.B.I.? There is a 90 degree vacume fitting apparently open and sucking air causing a big vacume leak. Unless this was disconnected for the video, or plugged, it will definitely cause a problem!
James Mumford that vacuum line goes to the vapor canister and won’t cause any significant problems
its funny because the truck im building has the same issue and i havent put on that vac line yet. maybe you're on to something
@@nrlty1253 did it work?
@@advirsitys8248 no
Cam sensor
I have a loping idle problem for 10 seconds when I start the engine after it's been running at operating temperature and then it clears up and it runs like a top
did you find the problem? 92 GMC VANDURA 2500 5.7 TBI runs great till it gets warm when i start it it surges and wont idle, i feather the gas and try to go till it clears up. runs fine again till i shut it off and go in the store and start it up again and does the same thing
@@spitfire27028 I put a GM fuel pump in the gas tank and changed the spring in the fuel pressure regulator in the TBI. It's helped a lot but it will sometimes do the surging thing when I start the engine after it's already been warmed up and sitting parked for at least 20 minutes. It only does it sometimes though. The only other thing I can think is vapor lock in the fuel lines
@@joeydrumstix how do you get rid of a vapor lock? does that mean i have fuel vapor and not liquid fuel in the lines? whay can be done? im sure it didnt do this out of the factory so something is going on. ty for replying!
@@spitfire27028 Yes vapor lock occurs in the fuel lines due to excessive surrounding heat vaporizing the liquid gasoline. Consequently fresh fuel from the tank can't get past the vaporized gas in the lines causing a stumbling for a few seconds. It happens more in carbureted motors but can still happen with fuel injection. Have you checked your fuel pressure?
@@joeydrumstix no i havent. i dont know how
Yo I had a pickup coil go out on me while I was driving 😬 yikes crazy shit
what would cause a 1999 chevy tahoe to start raise the rpm by itself all the way up to 5-6k rpm
A bad transmission
Intake gasket
My 98 vortec had the some of the same symptoms but mine is backfiring also already put new plug wires throttle position sensor now I dropping a new distributor in hoping it will fix it
Did that fix your problem
@@ABONE1 no it turned out to be the spider injector
Would this advice be the same for 92 blazer? Your truck guts look real similar...
Yes
What is the problem if it drives about a hundred miles then dies and won't start for a few hours?
Alternator
Vapor lock, possibly. When that happens try removing your fuel cap for a few minutes then see if it starts and runs.
My friends had that issue on a later model suburban. Everyone kept telling them they needed a new engine, it's a 6.2. Then after sitting at the Chev dealer it wouldn't start so they replaced the starter. Been working fine ever since. I think it might have been loose wire connections. It never made since that they needed a new engine.
Ignition module
What about High idle (1000+) with the rough acceleration and all that
I.A.C
bad injectors.
@@gearbender427 just had my TBI rebuilt not that long ago
I had a vacuum leak under my whole tbi I pulled it apart and put it back together carefully I had taken it apart to clean everything good and put the base plate on wrong re did it and my high idle was gone now I have too low of an idle lmao
Make more videos man
No follow up video on the distributor 😢
I wish i could find a video of a truck thats doing the same thing as mine.
Are you located in Arizona ?
No sir I’m not
Throwing parts at it is not how us "professionals" work. Diagnose it!
I feel the same way.
How
These have problems with bad distributors. That would be next.
Yea if you buy a new distributor it will sometimes come with a new pickup coil
Speed sensor
cant hear what he says.
My yukon valve covers have just as much sand on them 😂🫡
I've got a 454 tbi...it cranks runs great for 50 seconds...and the tbi shuts off like a light bulb.
I've changed everything....EVERYThing....
Nothing has fixed it.
Sounds like a computer problem what year is it?
@@jpeyton5064 1987 R30 Dually 454 TBI....I changed the fuel pump, Fuel Filter, Fuel Relay, Temp Sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor, Map, EGR,
Runs great for 50 seconds....then shuts off like a light switch. I've checked all grounds and vacuum lines. Damn thing is killing me.
It’s your fuel pump
Did you say sorta speak, that’s a new one
Your airfilter cover is on upside down
The studs are too short...
nice size hole in the middle of it too.
This looks like my truck
When i drive it it takes 40 sec until it goes to 60mph what can it be? Any one
Check your Mass Air Flow sensor. I had the same problem, but after cleaning ran like a new one.
@@kenrogers1282 yea that helped but now my truck only turns on when adding startee fluid n shuts off 3 seconds
@@benrojo1520 That's the fuel pump especially if you don't hear it prone when turning key to on position
@@jonhsmith2706 i chnaged out fuel pump n put in new one it turns on n has gas going threw
@@benrojo1520 ok only other thing I can think of is control module that's under distributor or a weak coil pack
that told me nothing
Dirty gas tank