most of my photography experience is from film shooting. when it comes to digital, I am overwhelemed with so much more I have to understand. I do miss that comfort of failure with film. After all, the failures are free these days, better than failing on costly films.
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel I hear MuseCam - Photo Editor for iPhone has film recipes options that you can insert with text and when you press the shutter button on your iPhone, you will have all the best Fujifilm and Kodak film Simulations coming out of your iPhone, works the same way that the Fujifilm X Series Cameras do.
I did this on my X70 with a Trans ll sensor and the results are PHENOMENAL! MAJESTIC! I’m really loving the super model life with this set as my permanent settings ! I look like a model shot by Arthur Elgort in EVERY SHOT I took! JUST WOW!!!! THANK YOU so much for this ! I’ve tried a lot of recipes from many people and never liked them! But this one is fantastic and my favorite of all time.
Hi! Did you just set up according to the x trans 2 and higher sensor settings for the x70 ? From 5:42 where it shows all the parameters? Kindly let me know as I would love to use the recipe for my x70 as well. Many thanks in advance 🙂
Am I the only one that didn't want this video to end? So easy on the eyes and gosh it was so relaxing, such a pleasure to watch! Your photos were stunning and absolutely loved the color pallet, I really wish Fuji gave us xt-3 users color negative through firmware update but I'll definitely give your other version of the receipt a try ! Thank you for this 🙏🏻 You've got a new subscriber! Greetings from Portugal ❤️🇵🇹
haha way too nice. i appreciate it. Yes Fuji are a little too stingy when it comes to color negative. But my recipe works fine with classic chrome! thanks for subscribing. 😀
This video was absolutely adorable and I enjoyed every second of it. So chill. I just bought an X-E4, and I'm waiting for it to ship, so in the meantime, learning all I can about fuji cameras. great video man!
thank you, too kind. 😀 The x-e4 is a really fantastic camera you will not be disappointed. If you have any questions you can just write. Otherwise have fun with the camera when you get it.
Just shot this recipe for the day in London. Stunning stuff, it is one of the most accurately filmic recipes out there, beautiful shots and promoted me to bite the bullet and go JPG only for the day as well. Also, the comment on Fuji's grain application on highlights. Always felt off, could never pinpoint exactly why and you've absolutely nailed it on that one, here's hoping it improves in the future as it feels like it could be somewhat easy to impliment highlight avoidance maybe with a different method of blending.
Love to hear it, thanks for the support! If you are shooting important things I would still say to shoot RAW+JPG for safety. Yes, I also hope that Fuji will improve their way of applying grain to the image. In theory, it's not even that hard if you take luminance into account. 😄
Haha sudden cell division. 😆 By the way, the plants are not plastic! When I say plastic plant I get nick carver syndrome. 😆 Whether the question is film or digital I leave open. maybe it's just a special effect. 🤷♂️
Mate, I have been using this recipe for months, maybe even a year, and tried all sort of other recipes but I keep coming back to this one. When I get back from a shoot and watch the JPG's on my screen its always a great feeling to see the result. This is the best 'Film" recipe, no doubt. Do you know any other film recipe like yours? Or maybe you should create another one!
Thank you very much for the kind words! I'm glad that my recipe is your favorite. ✌️ You can check out Goughie; he often creates recipe videos and also has his own recipe that I quite like.
The thing that gave away that the first photo was film was that it has an extra greenishness and coldness to the shadows. Digital makes the colors more even. I wish Fuji would invent a setting that simulates this for their cameras. Like, imagine if you could set your white balance for highlights and shadows separately. I think that would be really neat.
Haha, yeah, the greenish and cold tones in the shadows are classic film. It's interesting to see how digital cameras try to emulate that film look, but it's never quite the same. And I totally agree, it would be amazing if Fuji could come up with a setting like that. Let's hope they're listening!
Yes, I have a fuji camera (X-T3). Yes, I am interested in film simulations. But if I did not I would watch your videos simply for your refined sense of humor!! Great job, my friend.
Really nice work on the film simulation! Just loaded the XTrans3 version up on my X-T20 and I'm really liking the results so far. Love that it works with a manual colour temp light balance as well as Auto, as I won't mess with my Auto until Fuji figure out making custom white balances part of a user profile rather than a global preset! Definitely hear what you're saying about the film grain though and that's definitely something for Fuji to improve. Still a great way to get that look without spending 2021 Kodak prices...
thank you, yes i have my x-e3 which has white balance only as a global setting. but the xtrans 4 cameras have their own white balance for each custom setting which is super useful. asl information in case it annoys you too much with your x-t20. yes the high prices was my main reason to develop the recipe. 😀
"base", "shade" and "light" are actually situations in which you turn the expo.dial to those numbers...and for the tone curve it's actually highlights -2 and shadows +1 😊...it works on my xt20 like a charm
Is it just me or everytime theres a new simulation recipe video, I as a fujifilm shooter, sit eagerly with my fuji camera in the IQ menu dialling in the settings, excited about going out and testing it? This is a great recipe and a very good introductory for new users to get them hooked on fujifilm and never want to go back to film ever again. I also found new knowledge knowing about the grain differences between digital and film renditions! Fujifilm's next goal, to reduce grain in highlighted areas and only add in for shadows. And is it really called classic black in Germany??
Haha yes. i tried all the fujrumors recipes and was never quite satisfied. However, I did not know for a long time what the reason is. Yes, the digital grain in the standard programs is not as intelligent as it should be. in Davinci reolve, for example, you have much better options, even the brightness is taken into account. I think fuji can still see something off, at least with the grain.😀 Yes, I don't know why they renamed it. Maybe some naming rights maybe.🤷♂️
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel honestly the name in English is a little odd to me, though nowhere near as weird as "Classic Black" for a *colour* film simulation. The Pro Negative simulation is supposed to be an emulation of Fuji Pro-400H, so why not just call it that like they did for the Provia and Velvia simulations? Yes they discontinued 400H, but that was quite a bit after they'd added the Pro Negative simulations, and they discontinued Acros for a while without affecting the simulation naming. Just seems weird...
@@yetanotherbassdude so if it really should be per 400h then the naming is really very strange. Maybe it's also because all the other movie simulations have great names and pro 400h looks a bit strange against it. The only question is why the german name is so strange. 🤔
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel after seeing your amazing results and subscribing to your channel I have created the same recipe and will give it a crack. Helpful to know what that feature is for moving forward.
Just wanted to say good recipe and I appreciate your work. I've tried it for the first time a couple months ago but recently realized that EV was indeed really important here. For people like me who usually just slightly over/underexpose, I didn't get the colors in my first attempt. However, once I significantly increased EV, the colors are absolutely amazing.
Thanks for the feedback! I'm glad you enjoyed the recipe. It's true, getting the exposure right can make a big difference in bringing out the vibrant colors. Keep experimenting and capturing those amazing shots!
Love love love this film simulation so much! Been messing around with various settings and by far this one is the one I like the most. You just got yourself a new subscriber mister! X-S10 user here.
I've been lucky enough to be shooting on some kind of Fuji X camera for the past 6 years - and this is my favorite film simulation recipe BY FAR I've come across - AWESOME!! Like you, I have also had a lot of fun shooting Portra and FujiPro400H film for the past 3 years as well. Looks beautiful!
Love to hear that, thanks for the support! I thought if it works on film why shoulnd't it work on digital as well? I also try to make recipes that are closer to portra. 😀
Hey, I need help in setting this up in my XT20🙏🏼. Gerne auch auf deutsch 😎. How do I set up „base“, „shade“, „light“ and the Tone Curve. I don’t have those settings on my XT20 or they are named differently
Oh hey, also diese base shade und light sind einfach nur erfahrungswerte für verschiedene lichtsituationen und sidn keine settings für die tone curve. wenn man zb bei sonne im licht oder im schatten fotografiert muss je nachdem die kompensation angepasst werden. Base bedeutet nur das es das standardsetting ist von dem man aus starten sollte. Ich hoffe das hilft. ✌️
Silkypix Developer Studio Pro 10 is the best software to edit Fujifilm. Because, they are the company that created the Fujifilm X Converter. Also the company behind Nikon, Panasonic, Pantex raw converter. Highly recommended.
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Also, Love your Analogue Photography videos. Silkypix Developer Studio also has a dedicated tool to convert negative images positive. Worth checking it out 😁
I tried your recipe and overexposed it. It really looks like a film and it's my new favorite film recipe. Your pictures are amazing and I got fooled 100%. Thanks for sharing and stay positive as always.
glad to hear it 😀 actually i thought i couldn't fool so many people. but i'm happy it worked out the way i thought it would. Have fun and stay positive.
I have been using this recipe for 2 days now. It's just amazing, perfect for any mood. Fun on the beach? Make an exposure higher. Moody cloudy landscape? Lower the exposure for more contrast. The only thing I changed was the White Balance from Auto to 5900K. I tried lots of recipes and this is just my love for EDC.
I'm glad to hear you've been enjoying the recipe! It's fantastic to see how versatile it is, allowing you to capture different moods effortlessly. Keep experimenting and having fun with your photography!
Well, thank you very much! I'm glad you enjoy both my film recipe and my sense of humor. I try to blend a pinch of wit with a splash of sarcasm to keep things entertaining. It's awesome to have viewers like you who appreciate that. Kudos right back at you!
Brilliant, and wonderful to see you putting in the effort to make the recipe for older sensors as well. I really appreciate this, since I shoot on Xtrans III.
I just tried this recipe on my X-T4 and it's amazing, but here's what makes it even better - using vintage lenses! You gotta try that! Thanks for a great video!
Oh, I'm thrilled you enjoyed the recipe with your X-T4! Vintage lenses sound like an awesome twist-I'll definitely give it a shot! Thanks for the kind words and happy shooting!
Ich hatte heute einen Tag lang nur dieses Rezept genutzt und ca. 1500 Bilder gemacht (XH2). Rezept ist echt erste Sahne, das ist wirklich, WIRKLICH unglaublich gut. Das passt einfach fur alles. Dickes Danke dafür! Hab ein schönes Wochenende mien Jung
This is my favorite video on the channel. The next one was about the Leica Q3. Please make more videos about recipes - so many people use them. The best recipe for the X-Trans II. Love your blind tests.
Thank you, I'm glad you liked the recipe so much that you want more, but I actually didn't have a reason to create another one besides my black and white recipe. 😅
@@black_n5492 yeah, i just followed the settings on the video in order. you go in to you menu screen, and into the I.Q section. there you will see you film simulation, grain effect, DR ect. you can only manually set your DR to 400 if you're shoot atleast 800 ISO (so make sure to dial to 800 iso before you change your dynamic range setting). the reset of the setting on the video are found on you IQ screen. hope that helps
Great video, recipe and pictures! People think they can tell the difference between film and digital. In reality they can't, even worst when we talk about prints. Some film photographers have the audacity to claim themselves as "real photographers", and get offended when a digital shooter take a great, meaningful and full of soul picture.
thank you very much! actually on instagram no one can really determine if a picture is digital or film unless something obvious like halations are going on. Even those can be faked. The film gatekeepers are the worst. photography is for everyone. a good photographer can make a good picture even with a smartphone camera. the medium is just a style. 👌
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel "the camera needs a short moment to process and save. this limitation makes it even more like an analog camera." So well said and humor!
Base Shade & Light are simply guidelines for when to use certain exposure compensation settings. Different settings apply when shooting in the shade compared to when photographing objects directly in the sun. It's just a guideline; you can of course adjust the compensation as you wish.
Hey there! No worries, EV stands for "Exposure Value." Think of it as a way to combine settings like aperture, shutter speed, and ISO into a single value to get a well-exposed shot. So, when you're starting out, it's like finding the perfect balance for your XS10 settings.
The slide with the recipe at 5:40. I guess the first 5 lines are instructions on how much you need to compensate the exposure depending on the lighting circumstances? The settings you have to set in the menu’s of the camera are starting with ‘Film simulation’. Correct?
Großartig! Danke! Ich versuche das Rezept mit meiner XT20 mit Classic Chrome, aber finde die Tone Curve und High Iso Einstellung nicht - Alternative vielleicht Schatten und Lichter? Würde mich über einen Tipp freuen! Auf jeden Fall super Rezept!
dank dir! Bei den Xtrans 2 ist die tone curve noch einzeln in "ton lichter" und "schattier. ton" getrennt. "high iso" heißt rauschreduktion. Ich denke das hilft dir weiter. 😀
Thanks to you Reimann, it was really nice a lot of trial & error apart from that I would not know if I would reach my goal at all. Since you control contrast rather than exposure, you really use the camera differently than usual. 😃
thank you, when you are in the white balance menu you have to press with the stick to the right then you come into the custom menu for the detail balance. i hope this helps. 😄
I explained the EV setting in the video; it's the wheel on top of the camera with positive and negative numbers. This controls the light meter, simply allowing you to make it brighter or darker in auto exposure mode. i hope that will help you create some awesome photos. ✌️
The images look gorgeous! Are you sure about the white balance shift for Classic Chrome, though? It's rather cold and reducing the reds to -2 makes it even colder. After messing around a bit I found that a shift of +3 R and -4 B or even +4 R and -5 B get's me much closer to what you're showing here. I really dig it! I'll probably tweak it a bit to reflect my shooting style, but so far I'm really pleased. Thank you! We were at the Serengeti Park Hodenhagen the other day and I was using something a tiny bit reminiscent of Portra 400. It's really similar, but I use DR200, Highlights -2, Shadows -2 or -1, Color -2, Sharpness +2 and, of course, NR -4. Based on Classic Chrome as well, as I'm using the X100F. With this one I had the WB shift actually set to +4 R and -5 B. I usually shoot with the EV set to +1/3 and the recipe gives the images an incredibly warm and soft look, with low contrast where no detail is lost in the shadows or in the highlights. You could set the sharpness to 0 and instead up the grain for an even softer and more film like look. Vielen Dank!
a nice thanks! It is just a base for the white balance. I change it all the time for different lighting situations. Sa if you don't like the setting then just change it. 😀 Sounds like a good recipe. I will try this out when i get my x-s10 back from repair. 👌
Enjoyed this, thanks for the work you put into it. It is ironic, however, that people today associate film with blown highlights, since most amateur film photography of the past was chronically underexposed. This is because, like today, people, generally, didn't know what a light meter reading really means. All light meters meter for what is called "middle grey", regardless of the actual brightness of your subject. The camera is designed to adjust its settings to give that value. If your subject happens to be "middle grey", not darker or lighter, then you will get a "correct" exposure. However, it is more likely that the subject you want properly exposed is either a stop or more lighter or darker. Most of these scenes that are shown here in this video were of light colored objects some of which were in bright, direct sunlight. Most film users of the past would certainly have underexposed these scenes relying on the settings of their camera's internal light meter, instead of adjusting their settings by 1-3 stops to allow for more light. Digital camera users today also think that what their internal light meter tells them is "the correct" exposure, but digital photography is much more forgiving due to the fact that ISO can be adjusted. So most of the photos you see are just underexposed photos that have been adjusted in post processing, bringing up the highlights. This used to be done in the darkroom when printing, effectively underexposing the positive paper to bring up the highlights and lessen the shadows. That being said, if there is a trend now to over-expose, I imagine this may result in better photography over all.
thank you for the kind words. yes, most photographers today probably don't know what their camera's exposure metering actually is. I think it's a big part of the fun of analog photography to adjust the exposure to your liking and then use it to determine the look of your images. i'll have to get into the darkroom sometime to make my own prints. 😀
Don't worry, there are no silly questions! EV stands for 'exposure value' and it refers to the brightness level of your photo. To change the EV setting on your XT4, you can try accessing the 'exposure compensation' option as a dial your camera . It should be represented by a plus/minus sign. Hope that helps!
Great video. I have an X-T20 and usually shoot fully manual, so the exposure compensation does nothing (as ISO, aperture, and shutter speed are all set manually), which one do you set to auto in order to use the exposure comp as the faux contrast dial? Also, what ISO do you usually set to, as it seems DR400% only works with iso 800 and higher. Thanks
Great video and I can’t wait to go and try myself! I set everything in camera, which is the x-100V, and it seems it’s working. I was wondering if I missed something somehow. I get that I have to compensate and over-compensate during shooting but do you mind to explain a little bit further about those first lines? Base, shade, light and overcast? Are these settings related also to the tone curve? Which in that case means that I have to set highlights at +3 and shadows at +2 or I completely missed the point? I would highly appreciate your comment on this! Thank you!
with pleasure. so the tone curve always stays the same. the first three entries that refer to EV are only suggestions for light situations so that you don't have to try out so much to adjust the look properly. so the standard setting is the ice setting when everything is fully exposed with the sun when everything is in shadow and just when everything is completely cloudy. like back then on the film boxes. :D i hope this helps you.
Lovely video. You're the first person to mention adjusting Clarity as an adorable quirk 😄. That drives me crazy waiting, surely that's a bug in the Fujifilm software?
I shoot quite slowly anyway, so the clarity short waiting time doesn't bother me. 😀 Clarity is a very computationally intensive task that the camera has to process first. Therefore, it is unfortunately not a bug but rather the slow processor. may of course be that the next generation no longer has this waiting time. thanks for watching.
Hey, that's correct, since you can only change the exposure compensation there. Base shade & light should only mean that you should use a specific exposure compensation in the shadow, for example, that I had indicated. However, you can set it up as you wish.
oh hello, so the EV is just called Exposure Value. I mean the exposure compensation wheel on the camera. I have written it so that you do not have to try around for a long time to have the right values. But of course you can choose how much you want the overexposure to be. I hope that answers your question. 😀
I mean how to set the ev base to +1 2/3 shade to+2 light to 1 1/3 overcast to +1 1/3 , or do you mean when shooting this kind of shoot i have to turn the ev dial close to these values to get the results
@@s2006107 yes exactly, i meant the different light situations. for example, if it is cloudy then it is very likely that the exposure is correct with a compensation of +1 1/3EV. if you shoot in a shady area then +1 2/3EV and so on. 😄
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Ok i have it set to C and always use the wheel to custom adapt to the light on each photo. One last question, sorry ;( . The camera after shooting takes a little longer than usual with this settings to capture, might this be because of the dr in 400? I´m tempted to want it to be fast as usual and think that perhaps that´s the issue for the slow processing? let me know love your content
Interesting video! I've never cared much about the film / digital aspect of things, as long as the shots are nice. Still, it was interesting to see how you'd go about this since you apparently shoot film normally? Thanks for sharing!
appreciate it. The recipe only mimics the look of film, but the approach to working with the camera is still completely different. I have to be very precise with the recipe because a JPG doesn't have as much room for post-processing as film. but with film you can't see if you've made any mistakes. so in both cases you have to concentrate on taking the picture, which is something I missed a bit with digital photography. 🙂
Fabulous, can't wait to get out and try this, already love the results from shooting around the house, thanks so much and love the channel, subscribed!
Great video and film simulation. I like the look very much and will test it out extensively. I used it to take the first test pictures in the office and the photos look really great. Thanks for sharing and for your effort!
Very nice recipe. The only thing I don’t get is the EV part. What does “base” mean? Should the EV value be at least 1 2/3 and 2 at most? Did you mean “and” between the base values? I just tried my first images on a slightly overcast day with 1 1/3 and they look stunning.
Hey there! Glad you enjoyed the video! 😄 EV stands for "exposure value," and it's like a universal language for photographers to talk about exposure settings. You're spot on, the "base" value refers to the starting point of your exposure settings, and you can indeed use 1 2/3 as a minimum and 2 as a maximum. Keep experimenting, and you'll capture even more stunning shots! 📸
I hear MuseCam - Photo Editor for iPhone has film recipes options that you can insert with text and when you press the shutter button on your iPhone, you will have all the best Fujifilm and Kodak film Simulations coming out of your iPhone, works the same way that the Fujifilm X Series Cameras do.
Vielen Dank für das Rezept, kann es kaum erwarten es auszuprobieren!! Etwas ist mir aber unklar, wenn ich Blende auf einen Wert eingestellt habe, ISO & SS auf Auto, macht es dann einen Unterschied ob ich die Belichtung mit EV oder mit SS korrigiere? Mir war der Usecase von EV nie ganz klar.
Dank dir,😀 Also wenn du in Auto fotografierst (egal welche form von Auto) ist die Belichtungskorrektur dazu da dem Lichtmesser zu sagen wie du deine Helligkeit haben möchtest ohne den Auto Modus verlassen zu müssen. Wenn du ss und blende manuell wählst und ISO trotzdem auf Auto hast kannst man trotzdem die Belichtung nur mit der Belichtungskorrektur steuern da die Kamera noch den iso automatisch wählt. Nur komplett manuell kann man die Belichtung ohne Belichtungskorrektur regeln. Ich hoffe ich konnte dir damit helfen. 😀
Thanks for sharing your cool settings, I am excited to go out and try it! Quick question about the setting, what does ans +2 EV mean? Great video, great presentation. Liked and subbed!
Thanks, EV means exposure value and means that you have to set +2 with the exposure compensation dial. or if you shoot manually just overexpose +2 stops. i hope that answers your question. 😀
Fuji overexposed actually works just like film. It's better especially if you use the pro neg hi film setting and overexpose half or one full stop because the shadows are low and the contrast is low
Pro Neg Hi I also like very much that I always like to use for my street photos. Is but good that you build your own preference in the recipe. It always makes me happy when I could animate to experiment.😀
EV means exposure value which actually just means exposure. 0 would be the default value in this case but the look requires more than the default value to be set. in that case, depending on the light and weather, the ones i gave in the recipe. there, just set the values on the exposure compensation dial. that's all. :D
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Glaube ganz so einfach ist es nicht. Zumindest habe ich noch nichts gesehen, was mich überzeugt hätte. Ich glaube da ist grundsätzlich was an der Colorscience von Fuji falsch.
@@leoeyegenartig8473 Achso, ja das kann durchaus sein. Ich bin kein Portraitfotograf daher kann ich das nicht beurteilen. 😄 Ansonsten kann man das durchaus leicht in LR oder C1 beheben. Die nächste Sensorgeneration steht ja auch bevor vielleicht ist es dann besser.
Vielen Dank für das TOP-Video! Ich habe nun eine X100V und würde das Rezept sehr gerne anwenden. Kann es aber sein, dass man ein paar Einstellungen nicht machen kann?
Unfortunately, the z II does not have any functions for recipes. However, simple Lightroom presets are more than enough to get similar or even better results. Any fuji would certainly be a downgrade to a Z II.
Thanks a lot, vielen Dank für das Video. 7:21 couldn't you solve the grain problem by setting the iso very high, like "Mattias Burling" likes to do with multiple cameras. I tried that on acros and Iso 3200 or 4000 and I think it looks fantastic, maybe that would be even better then the Fuji grain "effect/simulation"?
i like your color setting, it helps me to have a better look at negative, i am also a fan of classic chrome, hope you have your own recipe vs classicchrome, thank you for the video
Hey Phong, I like classicchrome but classicnegative does something with the colors that looks so much more like film. However, you can use my recipe with both simulations.
Just getting into the Fuji system and really like this look! What settings do you recommend for the Fuji xt3? It has the X-Trans IV sensor but it does not have the classic negative film simulation.
"Only shoot jpeg. So you immediately have the comforting feeling of failure of film photography."
This speaks to me on a fundamental level.
safety? who needs that in film photography? 😆 Thanks for watching!
If I'm better at using my gear, I will try this out. In the mean time I'm so happy to rescue some pictures in Lightroom ^^.
most of my photography experience is from film shooting. when it comes to digital, I am overwhelemed with so much more I have to understand. I do miss that comfort of failure with film. After all, the failures are free these days, better than failing on costly films.
Film photography, digital that feels like film, amazing photos, AND voice over that calms just like Kurzgesagt? Subscribed!
Love to hear that, thanks for the support! 😀
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel I hear MuseCam - Photo Editor for iPhone has film recipes options that you can insert with text and when you press the shutter button on your iPhone, you will have all the best Fujifilm and Kodak film Simulations coming out of your iPhone, works the same way that the Fujifilm X Series Cameras do.
I did this on my X70 with a Trans ll sensor and the results are PHENOMENAL! MAJESTIC! I’m really loving the super model life with this set as my permanent settings ! I look like a model shot by Arthur Elgort in EVERY SHOT I took! JUST WOW!!!! THANK YOU so much for this ! I’ve tried a lot of recipes from many people and never liked them! But this one is fantastic and my favorite of all time.
I am very pleased that you like the recipe! and thank you for the support. 😀
Hi! Did you just set up according to the x trans 2 and higher sensor settings for the x70 ? From 5:42 where it shows all the parameters? Kindly let me know as I would love to use the recipe for my x70 as well. Many thanks in advance 🙂
Am I the only one that didn't want this video to end? So easy on the eyes and gosh it was so relaxing, such a pleasure to watch! Your photos were stunning and absolutely loved the color pallet, I really wish Fuji gave us xt-3 users color negative through firmware update but I'll definitely give your other version of the receipt a try ! Thank you for this 🙏🏻 You've got a new subscriber! Greetings from Portugal ❤️🇵🇹
haha way too nice. i appreciate it. Yes Fuji are a little too stingy when it comes to color negative. But my recipe works fine with classic chrome! thanks for subscribing. 😀
This video was absolutely adorable and I enjoyed every second of it. So chill. I just bought an X-E4, and I'm waiting for it to ship, so in the meantime, learning all I can about fuji cameras. great video man!
thank you, too kind. 😀 The x-e4 is a really fantastic camera you will not be disappointed. If you have any questions you can just write. Otherwise have fun with the camera when you get it.
Tried this on my X100V, and the shots look amazing. Excellent recipe.
Love to hear that, have fun photographing!
Just shot this recipe for the day in London. Stunning stuff, it is one of the most accurately filmic recipes out there, beautiful shots and promoted me to bite the bullet and go JPG only for the day as well. Also, the comment on Fuji's grain application on highlights. Always felt off, could never pinpoint exactly why and you've absolutely nailed it on that one, here's hoping it improves in the future as it feels like it could be somewhat easy to impliment highlight avoidance maybe with a different method of blending.
Love to hear it, thanks for the support! If you are shooting important things I would still say to shoot RAW+JPG for safety. Yes, I also hope that Fuji will improve their way of applying grain to the image. In theory, it's not even that hard if you take luminance into account. 😄
Recently got an xt3 and have been viewing all kinds of recipes on youtube. No doubt yours is the best! Subscribed!
Thank you very much for the kind words and the support!
My favorite part is @5:12 where magically a second plastic ikea plant appears in the background! Is the plant film or digital though? 🤔
Haha sudden cell division. 😆 By the way, the plants are not plastic! When I say plastic plant I get nick carver syndrome. 😆 Whether the question is film or digital I leave open. maybe it's just a special effect. 🤷♂️
Mate, I have been using this recipe for months, maybe even a year, and tried all sort of other recipes but I keep coming back to this one. When I get back from a shoot and watch the JPG's on my screen its always a great feeling to see the result. This is the best 'Film" recipe, no doubt.
Do you know any other film recipe like yours? Or maybe you should create another one!
Thank you very much for the kind words! I'm glad that my recipe is your favorite. ✌️ You can check out Goughie; he often creates recipe videos and also has his own recipe that I quite like.
The thing that gave away that the first photo was film was that it has an extra greenishness and coldness to the shadows. Digital makes the colors more even. I wish Fuji would invent a setting that simulates this for their cameras. Like, imagine if you could set your white balance for highlights and shadows separately. I think that would be really neat.
Haha, yeah, the greenish and cold tones in the shadows are classic film. It's interesting to see how digital cameras try to emulate that film look, but it's never quite the same. And I totally agree, it would be amazing if Fuji could come up with a setting like that. Let's hope they're listening!
Yes, I have a fuji camera (X-T3). Yes, I am interested in film simulations. But if I did not I would watch your videos simply for your refined sense of humor!! Great job, my friend.
Haha, thanks. Recipes are always so dry. Not on my watch. :D
Really nice work on the film simulation! Just loaded the XTrans3 version up on my X-T20 and I'm really liking the results so far. Love that it works with a manual colour temp light balance as well as Auto, as I won't mess with my Auto until Fuji figure out making custom white balances part of a user profile rather than a global preset! Definitely hear what you're saying about the film grain though and that's definitely something for Fuji to improve. Still a great way to get that look without spending 2021 Kodak prices...
thank you, yes i have my x-e3 which has white balance only as a global setting. but the xtrans 4 cameras have their own white balance for each custom setting which is super useful. asl information in case it annoys you too much with your x-t20. yes the high prices was my main reason to develop the recipe. 😀
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel this is making me want to buy a new camera 🙄😆
I have the X-Pro3 and it lets me set white balance for each custom profile
Hey how did you set this up for xt20? I can’t find the settings „base“, „shade“, „light“ and the Tone Curve.
"base", "shade" and "light" are actually situations in which you turn the expo.dial to those numbers...and for the tone curve it's actually highlights -2 and shadows +1 😊...it works on my xt20 like a charm
Is it just me or everytime theres a new simulation recipe video, I as a fujifilm shooter, sit eagerly with my fuji camera in the IQ menu dialling in the settings, excited about going out and testing it? This is a great recipe and a very good introductory for new users to get them hooked on fujifilm and never want to go back to film ever again. I also found new knowledge knowing about the grain differences between digital and film renditions! Fujifilm's next goal, to reduce grain in highlighted areas and only add in for shadows. And is it really called classic black in Germany??
Haha yes. i tried all the fujrumors recipes and was never quite satisfied. However, I did not know for a long time what the reason is. Yes, the digital grain in the standard programs is not as intelligent as it should be. in Davinci reolve, for example, you have much better options, even the brightness is taken into account. I think fuji can still see something off, at least with the grain.😀 Yes, I don't know why they renamed it. Maybe some naming rights maybe.🤷♂️
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel honestly the name in English is a little odd to me, though nowhere near as weird as "Classic Black" for a *colour* film simulation. The Pro Negative simulation is supposed to be an emulation of Fuji Pro-400H, so why not just call it that like they did for the Provia and Velvia simulations? Yes they discontinued 400H, but that was quite a bit after they'd added the Pro Negative simulations, and they discontinued Acros for a while without affecting the simulation naming. Just seems weird...
@@yetanotherbassdude so if it really should be per 400h then the naming is really very strange. Maybe it's also because all the other movie simulations have great names and pro 400h looks a bit strange against it. The only question is why the german name is so strange. 🤔
New simulation for X-T3 !! Really nice job !! Please continue for us "Sim-Junkies" !!
Thank you, new recipes are on the way! 😀
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel after seeing your amazing results and subscribing to your channel I have created the same recipe and will give it a crack. Helpful to know what that feature is for moving forward.
I like your calmness and voice a lot. Also a bit humor and professional perspective. Great :)
Thank you for that! Appreciate you watching!
Just wanted to say good recipe and I appreciate your work. I've tried it for the first time a couple months ago but recently realized that EV was indeed really important here. For people like me who usually just slightly over/underexpose, I didn't get the colors in my first attempt. However, once I significantly increased EV, the colors are absolutely amazing.
Thanks for the feedback! I'm glad you enjoyed the recipe. It's true, getting the exposure right can make a big difference in bringing out the vibrant colors. Keep experimenting and capturing those amazing shots!
Love love love this film simulation so much! Been messing around with various settings and by far this one is the one I like the most. You just got yourself a new subscriber mister! X-S10 user here.
thank you! glad you like the recipe. ✌️
I loaded this recipe into my 100v last year and it always becomes my favorite. fantastic and superb work, sir.
Thank you for your kind words. I’m glad you enjoy the recipe as much as I do. ✌️
I've been lucky enough to be shooting on some kind of Fuji X camera for the past 6 years - and this is my favorite film simulation recipe BY FAR I've come across - AWESOME!! Like you, I have also had a lot of fun shooting Portra and FujiPro400H film for the past 3 years as well. Looks beautiful!
Love to hear that, thanks for the support! I thought if it works on film why shoulnd't it work on digital as well? I also try to make recipes that are closer to portra. 😀
Hey, I need help in setting this up in my XT20🙏🏼. Gerne auch auf deutsch 😎. How do I set up „base“, „shade“, „light“ and the Tone Curve. I don’t have those settings on my XT20 or they are named differently
Oh hey, also diese base shade und light sind einfach nur erfahrungswerte für verschiedene lichtsituationen und sidn keine settings für die tone curve. wenn man zb bei sonne im licht oder im schatten fotografiert muss je nachdem die kompensation angepasst werden. Base bedeutet nur das es das standardsetting ist von dem man aus starten sollte. Ich hoffe das hilft. ✌️
Silkypix Developer Studio Pro 10 is the best software to edit Fujifilm.
Because, they are the company that created the Fujifilm X Converter. Also the company behind Nikon, Panasonic, Pantex raw converter.
Highly recommended.
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel
Also, Love your Analogue Photography videos.
Silkypix Developer Studio also has a dedicated tool to convert negative images positive.
Worth checking it out 😁
I tried your recipe and overexposed it. It really looks like a film and it's my new favorite film recipe. Your pictures are amazing and I got fooled 100%. Thanks for sharing and stay positive as always.
glad to hear it 😀 actually i thought i couldn't fool so many people. but i'm happy it worked out the way i thought it would. Have fun and stay positive.
I have been using this recipe for 2 days now. It's just amazing, perfect for any mood. Fun on the beach? Make an exposure higher. Moody cloudy landscape? Lower the exposure for more contrast. The only thing I changed was the White Balance from Auto to 5900K. I tried lots of recipes and this is just my love for EDC.
I'm glad to hear you've been enjoying the recipe! It's fantastic to see how versatile it is, allowing you to capture different moods effortlessly. Keep experimenting and having fun with your photography!
Not only do I love your film recipe, I love your sense of humour. Kudos.
Well, thank you very much! I'm glad you enjoy both my film recipe and my sense of humor. I try to blend a pinch of wit with a splash of sarcasm to keep things entertaining. It's awesome to have viewers like you who appreciate that. Kudos right back at you!
Brilliant, and wonderful to see you putting in the effort to make the recipe for older sensors as well. I really appreciate this, since I shoot on Xtrans III.
you're welcome. old cameras are usually just as good as the newer ones so why leave them out. ✌️
Absolutely enjoyed this video. AND have the recipe loaded on to my XT2. Really liking it! Thank you for this!!!
Love to hear that, thanks for the support!
what film simulation where u using?
This is one Heck of a Film Simulation. Currently using it on my XT5
So it works on x-trans V also, or did you tweak anything? Thanks for your time.
Thanks! :D
I just tried this recipe on my X-T4 and it's amazing, but here's what makes it even better - using vintage lenses! You gotta try that! Thanks for a great video!
Oh, I'm thrilled you enjoyed the recipe with your X-T4! Vintage lenses sound like an awesome twist-I'll definitely give it a shot! Thanks for the kind words and happy shooting!
Ich hatte heute einen Tag lang nur dieses Rezept genutzt und ca. 1500 Bilder gemacht (XH2).
Rezept ist echt erste Sahne, das ist wirklich, WIRKLICH unglaublich gut. Das passt einfach fur alles. Dickes Danke dafür! Hab ein schönes Wochenende mien Jung
Freut mich das die da recipe so gut gefällt.👌Dann viel spaß noch damit und deiner X-H2.
This is my favorite video on the channel. The next one was about the Leica Q3. Please make more videos about recipes - so many people use them. The best recipe for the X-Trans II. Love your blind tests.
Thank you, I'm glad you liked the recipe so much that you want more, but I actually didn't have a reason to create another one besides my black and white recipe. 😅
Just plugged this into my X-H1 very excited to see results
have fun with it! :D
Hello! I just stumbled across this video, Nice work! Do you have an equivalent recipe for the XE-1? (X Trans Sensor I).
Thanks for all your help!
Hey, no, unfortunately, I don't have an X-Trans 1 camera. However, check out Fuji X Weekly if you're looking for good recipes for your camera. 👌
Dude, this was amazing! Please*** do more of these digital - analog videos with film recipes. Would love to see a portra one. Thanks!
Appreciate the support! I'll try my best but I can't promise anything. :D
I was able to get those setting on my xt2! About to go out and shoot rn!
Love to hear that, have fun photographing!
Hey Jovanni, xt-3 user and new to Fuji. I don't know how to configure the EV settings, any tips on that?
@@black_n5492 yeah, i just followed the settings on the video in order. you go in to you menu screen, and into the I.Q section. there you will see you film simulation, grain effect, DR ect. you can only manually set your DR to 400 if you're shoot atleast 800 ISO (so make sure to dial to 800 iso before you change your dynamic range setting). the reset of the setting on the video are found on you IQ screen. hope that helps
Amazing recipe! Do you touch the Auto ISO at atll?
Any way of make it work on a fuji xt5?? Looks absolutely beautiful 😍
It works flawlessly with the x-t5 👌 I used mine with it.
Great video, recipe and pictures!
People think they can tell the difference between film and digital. In reality they can't, even worst when we talk about prints. Some film photographers have the audacity to claim themselves as "real photographers", and get offended when a digital shooter take a great, meaningful and full of soul picture.
thank you very much!
actually on instagram no one can really determine if a picture is digital or film unless something obvious like halations are going on. Even those can be faked. The film gatekeepers are the worst. photography is for everyone. a good photographer can make a good picture even with a smartphone camera. the medium is just a style. 👌
You’re simply wonderful. Thanks
thank you, have fun with the recipe. 👌
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel "the camera needs a short moment to process and save. this limitation makes it even more like an analog camera." So well said and humor!
This is great! However I don't understand Base, Shade and light. Can someone please explain this. Thanks!
Base Shade & Light are simply guidelines for when to use certain exposure compensation settings. Different settings apply when shooting in the shade compared to when photographing objects directly in the sun. It's just a guideline; you can of course adjust the compensation as you wish.
Lovely images! Great video too. Thanks for all that working it out, I'll be trying this out on my X-S10 shortly...pretty excited :D
thank you Abu, I have developed the recipe with my X-S10. :D have fun with it!
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Yes! I've got one too... usually doing video...love the little beast. Cheers!
Hi! Im a beginner and I don’t understand the EV part at the beginning of the recipe. I also own an XS10. Can someone explain? Thanks for the recipe
Hey there! No worries, EV stands for "Exposure Value." Think of it as a way to combine settings like aperture, shutter speed, and ISO into a single value to get a well-exposed shot. So, when you're starting out, it's like finding the perfect balance for your XS10 settings.
The slide with the recipe at 5:40. I guess the first 5 lines are instructions on how much you need to compensate the exposure depending on the lighting circumstances? The settings you have to set in the menu’s of the camera are starting with ‘Film simulation’. Correct?
Exactly! the first line are just recommendations to start. 😀
Großartig! Danke! Ich versuche das Rezept mit meiner XT20 mit Classic Chrome, aber finde die Tone Curve und High Iso Einstellung nicht - Alternative vielleicht Schatten und Lichter? Würde mich über einen Tipp freuen! Auf jeden Fall super Rezept!
dank dir! Bei den Xtrans 2 ist die tone curve noch einzeln in "ton lichter" und "schattier. ton" getrennt. "high iso" heißt rauschreduktion. Ich denke das hilft dir weiter. 😀
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Super! Danke!
I tried this recipe and it's amazing. Subscribed!
Thank you, I'm glad you like the recipe!
do you have any fujifilm simulation recipes for black and white?
oh yeah i'am currently working on a B&W recipe! I will soon make the video for it when my x-s10 is back from repair. 😀
5 Stars! I just loaded it up in the XPro3 and wow... its a really good recipe, IMO... the best so far!
thank you very much, have fun photographing with my recipe. 👌
Great work! I am dialing in this recipe into my X100V right now and going outside to shot! Thanks and subscribed!
thank you for subscribing michael. ✌ also have fun taking pictures with my recipe.
Wow nice recipe! I was fooled on most of the photos! Seems like you took a lot of time to make this recipe and it works like a charm!
Thanks to you Reimann, it was really nice a lot of trial & error apart from that I would not know if I would reach my goal at all. Since you control contrast rather than exposure, you really use the camera differently than usual. 😃
Love these settings mate, thank you very much from the land down under 🇦🇺
I'm glad you like the recipe. ✌️
Hi, my X-E2 X- Trans 2 does not have a Grain setting. Can I add it in later on my computer?
Of course, you can do that in Lightroom or any other program. The grain from Fuji is not particularly unique and can be easily replaced.
Dude awesome video! Just got a fujifilm xpro 2 for my autofocus digital, can’t wait to try this out. Subscribed and can’t wait for more videos!
appreciate it, more videos are definitely coming! 😀
I do not have a "tone curve" in my X100F camera which is X-trans III..
It's quite possible that different versions of X-Trans support different settings. Perhaps it's just called different.
double thank you. one for sharing your recipe and second for not forgetting about people who still use xt2 like me ah ah
You're welcome. Just because you have an "older" camera doesn't make it any less capable of getting nice colors. :D
Great stuff! Can't change color balance on auto in my xt3 for some reason. I'll Google it
thank you, when you are in the white balance menu you have to press with the stick to the right then you come into the custom menu for the detail balance. i hope this helps. 😄
Big Negative has become one of my favorite film sim. Thanks
Love to hear that, thanks for the support! :D
Going to give this recipe a try on both my X100V and X-Pro3, but so far I knida like it. Thank you
Ah with the two cameras it will work very well.😀
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel I love the look of the images I took.. I posted a few shots on instagram and added you to the post. Thanks
@@mwales2112 nice, are you photonionology? on IG?
I'm complete beginner and don't know how to set ev settings on the menu. I just can't find them. Can someone help me out? I own a x-t30II.
I explained the EV setting in the video; it's the wheel on top of the camera with positive and negative numbers. This controls the light meter, simply allowing you to make it brighter or darker in auto exposure mode. i hope that will help you create some awesome photos. ✌️
The images look gorgeous!
Are you sure about the white balance shift for Classic Chrome, though? It's rather cold and reducing the reds to -2 makes it even colder. After messing around a bit I found that a shift of +3 R and -4 B or even +4 R and -5 B get's me much closer to what you're showing here.
I really dig it! I'll probably tweak it a bit to reflect my shooting style, but so far I'm really pleased. Thank you!
We were at the Serengeti Park Hodenhagen the other day and I was using something a tiny bit reminiscent of Portra 400. It's really similar, but I use DR200, Highlights -2, Shadows -2 or -1, Color -2, Sharpness +2 and, of course, NR -4. Based on Classic Chrome as well, as I'm using the X100F. With this one I had the WB shift actually set to +4 R and -5 B. I usually shoot with the EV set to +1/3 and the recipe gives the images an incredibly warm and soft look, with low contrast where no detail is lost in the shadows or in the highlights. You could set the sharpness to 0 and instead up the grain for an even softer and more film like look.
Vielen Dank!
a nice thanks! It is just a base for the white balance. I change it all the time for different lighting situations. Sa if you don't like the setting then just change it. 😀 Sounds like a good recipe. I will try this out when i get my x-s10 back from repair. 👌
I tried this on my X100F and loved it. Liked and subscribed!
Love to hear that, have fun photographing! 😀
Enjoyed this, thanks for the work you put into it. It is ironic, however, that people today associate film with blown highlights, since most amateur film photography of the past was chronically underexposed. This is because, like today, people, generally, didn't know what a light meter reading really means. All light meters meter for what is called "middle grey", regardless of the actual brightness of your subject. The camera is designed to adjust its settings to give that value. If your subject happens to be "middle grey", not darker or lighter, then you will get a "correct" exposure. However, it is more likely that the subject you want properly exposed is either a stop or more lighter or darker. Most of these scenes that are shown here in this video were of light colored objects some of which were in bright, direct sunlight. Most film users of the past would certainly have underexposed these scenes relying on the settings of their camera's internal light meter, instead of adjusting their settings by 1-3 stops to allow for more light. Digital camera users today also think that what their internal light meter tells them is "the correct" exposure, but digital photography is much more forgiving due to the fact that ISO can be adjusted. So most of the photos you see are just underexposed photos that have been adjusted in post processing, bringing up the highlights. This used to be done in the darkroom when printing, effectively underexposing the positive paper to bring up the highlights and lessen the shadows. That being said, if there is a trend now to over-expose, I imagine this may result in better photography over all.
thank you for the kind words. yes, most photographers today probably don't know what their camera's exposure metering actually is. I think it's a big part of the fun of analog photography to adjust the exposure to your liking and then use it to determine the look of your images. i'll have to get into the darkroom sometime to make my own prints. 😀
Hello, this might be a silly question but what is ev? How do I change that setting on my xt4? I can't find it on the menu... thank you!
Don't worry, there are no silly questions! EV stands for 'exposure value' and it refers to the brightness level of your photo. To change the EV setting on your XT4, you can try accessing the 'exposure compensation' option as a dial your camera . It should be represented by a plus/minus sign. Hope that helps!
This is my fav custom sim so far. just tried it, amazing!!!
Love to hear it, thanks for the support!
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel please keep trying more sims
Absolutely will doing this recipe into my oldies xt20!!
thanks for looking. I also use the recipe on my x-e3! So will work wonderfully on your x-t20. 😀
Great video. I have an X-T20 and usually shoot fully manual, so the exposure compensation does nothing (as ISO, aperture, and shutter speed are all set manually), which one do you set to auto in order to use the exposure comp as the faux contrast dial? Also, what ISO do you usually set to, as it seems DR400% only works with iso 800 and higher. Thanks
Great video and I can’t wait to go and try myself! I set everything in camera, which is the x-100V, and it seems it’s working. I was wondering if I missed something somehow. I get that I have to compensate and over-compensate during shooting but do you mind to explain a little bit further about those first lines? Base, shade, light and overcast? Are these settings related also to the tone curve? Which in that case means that I have to set highlights at +3 and shadows at +2 or I completely missed the point?
I would highly appreciate your comment on this!
Thank you!
with pleasure. so the tone curve always stays the same. the first three entries that refer to EV are only suggestions for light situations so that you don't have to try out so much to adjust the look properly. so the standard setting is the ice setting when everything is fully exposed with the sun when everything is in shadow and just when everything is completely cloudy. like back then on the film boxes. :D
i hope this helps you.
do you think this will work similarly for the sensor in the %th generation? X100vi or XT5?
I had the recipe on my X-T5, and it looked relatively good. The colors stay roughly the same; only the white balance has different values.
Thanks! Great video. Cool recipe (or warm, rather!). Looking forward to trying it out.
Love to hear that, have fun taking pictures! :D
What if I wanna get these results on a Fujifilm XM-1?
Sorry, I don't know much about the XM-1 :( But you can try using the settings you have. Otherwise, check out Fuji X Weekly for cool simulations.
Lovely video. You're the first person to mention adjusting Clarity as an adorable quirk 😄. That drives me crazy waiting, surely that's a bug in the Fujifilm software?
I shoot quite slowly anyway, so the clarity short waiting time doesn't bother me. 😀 Clarity is a very computationally intensive task that the camera has to process first. Therefore, it is unfortunately not a bug but rather the slow processor. may of course be that the next generation no longer has this waiting time. thanks for watching.
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Good to know. I genuinely thought this was an error. Anyway, beautiful video. Please keep it up.
Erfurt!! Ich habe dort gelebt!
Jedenfalls danke für das schöne Video.
ah cool! freut mich das dir das Video gefallen hat. 😀
Hey guys, I have an XS-10 but I don't see the option to adjust EV anywhere except the back rear? Is that one for base, shade, light or overcast?
Hey, that's correct, since you can only change the exposure compensation there.
Base shade & light should only mean that you should use a specific exposure compensation in the shadow, for example, that I had indicated. However, you can set it up as you wish.
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Thanks! This is my go to recipe now!
Hi there, I´d love to try the recipe and have tried others but never came across the EV indication. How do you set this up? help :)
I'm also looking for how to set those setting
oh hello, so the EV is just called Exposure Value. I mean the exposure compensation wheel on the camera. I have written it so that you do not have to try around for a long time to have the right values. But of course you can choose how much you want the overexposure to be. I hope that answers your question. 😀
I mean how to set the ev base to +1 2/3 shade to+2 light to 1 1/3 overcast to +1 1/3 , or do you mean when shooting this kind of shoot i have to turn the ev dial close to these values to get the results
@@s2006107 yes exactly, i meant the different light situations. for example, if it is cloudy then it is very likely that the exposure is correct with a compensation of +1 1/3EV. if you shoot in a shady area then +1 2/3EV and so on. 😄
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Ok i have it set to C and always use the wheel to custom adapt to the light on each photo. One last question, sorry ;( . The camera after shooting takes a little longer than usual with this settings to capture, might this be because of the dr in 400? I´m tempted to want it to be fast as usual and think that perhaps that´s the issue for the slow processing? let me know love your content
Man, this is gorgeous ! Many thanks
thank you, have fun with the recipe!
Interesting video! I've never cared much about the film / digital aspect of things, as long as the shots are nice. Still, it was interesting to see how you'd go about this since you apparently shoot film normally?
Thanks for sharing!
appreciate it. The recipe only mimics the look of film, but the approach to working with the camera is still completely different. I have to be very precise with the recipe because a JPG doesn't have as much room for post-processing as film. but with film you can't see if you've made any mistakes. so in both cases you have to concentrate on taking the picture, which is something I missed a bit with digital photography. 🙂
Fabulous, can't wait to get out and try this, already love the results from shooting around the house, thanks so much and love the channel, subscribed!
Love to hear that, have fun taking pictures!
Great video and film simulation. I like the look very much and will test it out extensively. I used it to take the first test pictures in the office and the photos look really great. Thanks for sharing and for your effort!
it was my pleasure. i'm just happy when people can make cool pictures with my recipe. 😀
Great recipie! I'm going to try this one. Danke schon!!
Bitte war mir ein Vergnügen. 😀
Very nice recipe. The only thing I don’t get is the EV part. What does “base” mean? Should the EV value be at least 1 2/3 and 2 at most? Did you mean “and” between the base values? I just tried my first images on a slightly overcast day with 1 1/3 and they look stunning.
Hey there! Glad you enjoyed the video! 😄 EV stands for "exposure value," and it's like a universal language for photographers to talk about exposure settings. You're spot on, the "base" value refers to the starting point of your exposure settings, and you can indeed use 1 2/3 as a minimum and 2 as a maximum. Keep experimenting, and you'll capture even more stunning shots! 📸
I hear MuseCam - Photo Editor for iPhone has film recipes options that you can insert with text and when you press the shutter button on your iPhone, you will have all the best Fujifilm and Kodak film Simulations coming out of your iPhone, works the same way that the Fujifilm X Series Cameras do.
That may well be that the app can do that. However, I hardly ever take pictures with my iphone, so I can't give you an answer.
Thanks, very clear and informative video, and absolutely love the results with these settings
Love to hear that, thanks for the support!
Vielen Dank für das Rezept, kann es kaum erwarten es auszuprobieren!!
Etwas ist mir aber unklar, wenn ich Blende auf einen Wert eingestellt habe, ISO & SS auf Auto, macht es dann einen Unterschied ob ich die Belichtung mit EV oder mit SS korrigiere?
Mir war der Usecase von EV nie ganz klar.
Dank dir,😀 Also wenn du in Auto fotografierst (egal welche form von Auto) ist die Belichtungskorrektur dazu da dem Lichtmesser zu sagen wie du deine Helligkeit haben möchtest ohne den Auto Modus verlassen zu müssen. Wenn du ss und blende manuell wählst und ISO trotzdem auf Auto hast kannst man trotzdem die Belichtung nur mit der Belichtungskorrektur steuern da die Kamera noch den iso automatisch wählt. Nur komplett manuell kann man die Belichtung ohne Belichtungskorrektur regeln. Ich hoffe ich konnte dir damit helfen. 😀
Thanks for sharing your cool settings, I am excited to go out and try it! Quick question about the setting, what does ans +2 EV mean? Great video, great presentation. Liked and subbed!
Thanks, EV means exposure value and means that you have to set +2 with the exposure compensation dial. or if you shoot manually just overexpose +2 stops. i hope that answers your question. 😀
Fuji overexposed actually works just like film. It's better especially if you use the pro neg hi film setting and overexpose half or one full stop because the shadows are low and the contrast is low
Pro Neg Hi I also like very much that I always like to use for my street photos. Is but good that you build your own preference in the recipe. It always makes me happy when I could animate to experiment.😀
Where's the one for Xtrans3 sensor? This is very beautiful.
Ah hello, just use the recipe for x-Trans 4 but instead of classic negative you can use Classic chrome or astia. That works too.
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel thank you!
Hi! Can you the simulation on my XS20? Thanks!
Certainly, you can use that on your x-s20. I actually created the recipe with an x-s10. :D
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel thank you so much for reply!
newbie here :) How to adjust EV part. I'm using XT4. Other parts I have already done.. Thanks
EV means exposure value which actually just means exposure. 0 would be the default value in this case but the look requires more than the default value to be set. in that case, depending on the light and weather, the ones i gave in the recipe. there, just set the values on the exposure compensation dial. that's all. :D
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel oo okay. thank a lot ! 😍
Tolles Video! Ich liebe Fuji, aber ich habe noch kein Foto gesehen, wo die Hauttöne nicht nen lila Stich haben.
Wird an dem Weißabgleich liegen.😀 Wenn du gerne einen grünlicheren haben willst kannst du das natürlich einstellen wie du magst.
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Glaube ganz so einfach ist es nicht. Zumindest habe ich noch nichts gesehen, was mich überzeugt hätte. Ich glaube da ist grundsätzlich was an der Colorscience von Fuji falsch.
@@leoeyegenartig8473 Achso, ja das kann durchaus sein. Ich bin kein Portraitfotograf daher kann ich das nicht beurteilen. 😄 Ansonsten kann man das durchaus leicht in LR oder C1 beheben. Die nächste Sensorgeneration steht ja auch bevor vielleicht ist es dann besser.
can you get filmlike results while shooting videos as well? or only for photos?
you can also use the recipe in video, but the DR function doesn't work like in photo mode, so it might be easier to crush the highlights.
Vielen Dank für das TOP-Video!
Ich habe nun eine X100V und würde das Rezept sehr gerne anwenden. Kann es aber sein, dass man ein paar Einstellungen nicht machen kann?
Normalerweise sollte mit der Kamera alles funktionieren. Welche Einstellung geht nicht?
Beautiful! Probably going to have to get one of these. In the mean time, can this happen on a Nikon z6ii?
Unfortunately, the z II does not have any functions for recipes. However, simple Lightroom presets are more than enough to get similar or even better results. Any fuji would certainly be a downgrade to a Z II.
Just starting with my X-E4 (my first Fuji camera) and super excited with this whole film recipes thing. Thanks for sharing yours!
my pleasure. The x-e4 is a fantastic camera and will bring you a lot joy. 😄
Thanks a lot ❤ For xt5, recipe would be the same as 4?
You're Welcome! Yeah the x-t5 has no updates in the film sim departement so you can use the x-trans 4 recipe.
Thanks a lot, vielen Dank für das Video. 7:21 couldn't you solve the grain problem by setting the iso very high, like "Mattias Burling" likes to do with multiple cameras. I tried that on acros and Iso 3200 or 4000 and I think it looks fantastic, maybe that would be even better then the Fuji grain "effect/simulation"?
Dank dir. Gute Idee! vielleicht sieht der High Iso Grain tatsächlich besser aus als der simulierte. Werd ich mal ausprobieren. 😀
Nice recipe for my XPRO2 ! Thank you !
my pleasure. 😀
i like your color setting, it helps me to have a better look at negative, i am also a fan of classic chrome, hope you have your own recipe vs classicchrome, thank you for the video
Hey Phong, I like classicchrome but classicnegative does something with the colors that looks so much more like film. However, you can use my recipe with both simulations.
I can't seem to find the same settings on my XT-10. Do you have a equivalent recipe for first gen sensors?
sorry i don't own a 1.gen fuji camera. But I think you can find really good recipes at fujixweekly.
Just getting into the Fuji system and really like this look! What settings do you recommend for the Fuji xt3? It has the X-Trans IV sensor but it does not have the classic negative film simulation.
You can simply take the xtrans 4 recipe and instead of classic neg you take classic chrome that works the same way. ✌️
Thank you, it works so well!
One of the things to get a film look is to get a diffusion filter like the Cinebloom or Tiffen Pro-Mist
Yes that's right I have in the DIY mist FIlter video yes talked about that I have emulated a TLR. That has worked really well. 😀