Do You Even Sand Bro? Orbital Sander Tips, Tricks & Hacks
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- People tell me all the time that they know how to sand... most times they overestimate these claims.
In this video we talk about some of our favorite orbital sander tricks in the hopes that everyone watching will be able to make use of them too.
Sanding is a pain but this might just make it a little more tolerable.
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Original score: Electric Boogie Dawgs & The Born Readies
Artwork: Paul Shellooe
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Remember, we are showing you what we do, not how to do it. If you do not possess the necessary skills to perform work at this level, do not attempt to replicate what you see here. If you're going to be dumb, you have to be TOUGH.
I use that same hose on my detailing file sander. I connect it to my bigger shop vac hose by cutting off about 3" of pool noodle foam and fitting it to both hoses. Works great, attaches/detaches easily. I also have that same Ridgid sander but had never thought to use the smaller hose. Great tip. Thanks!
It works great, right
You hit my favorite point. 80 grit is always 80 grit even wore out. So many people don’t understand that!
I see it all the time it is so odd to me
Great, useful video, guys. I also believe in wiping the surface between grits, raising the grain, and lightly scraping before finishing. That could be going overboard, but I enjoy finishing. thanks!
Great point!
Matt mentions the square-based electric hand sanders. These are called "Orbital Sanders" because the sanding pad moves in a very small circle or orbit (1/8" - 1/4" DIA), similar to the motion Mr. Miyagi makes when applying wax to his car. Your hand does not spin or rotate, it just moves in circles. Since these sanders move in small circles really fast, they vibrate...which is why many people call them "vibrating sanders". The problem with Orbital Sanders is that each grain of sand travels in a consistent, predictable path -- little circles -- so these types of sanders can often leave swirl marks in your work, especially if you hold it in one spot or apply uneven downward pressure.
The Random Orbital Sander, on the other hand, does the same thing but it spins at the same time. The combination of the orbiting motion AND the spinning results in each grain of sand traveling in a RANDOM path (hence the name), which greatly reduces the likelihood of swirling. With a ROS, you SHOULD move it slowly across the wood. As Matt says, "Let the tool do the work."
The reason you shouldn't apply downward pressure on a ROS is that it doesn't take much pressure to stop the machine from spinning...which essentially changes your Random Orbit Sander into an Orbital Sander.
See Todd gets it
Man..... I know so many people who need this video!
Send it their way JB
I spent almost 5 years sanding acoustic bodies in the Gibson acoustic division out in Montana. Ended up and the body sanding manager. I can't say I enjoy sanding but it got to where I didnt hate it either. Those crescent divits we called them thumb sands... the biggest most important thing was keep your sander flat!!!!
You have probably seen it 1000 times
Ok, first of all, for a week in January I woke up thinking "yippee, I get to sand today". This is such a good video Matt, I learnt so much during my week there about sanding. Everything you mention in the video is what I learned there. The first time I headed out to my shop when I got home, I doubled my steps of grits. If you go through the small steps of paper, you may think you will do more sanding, but in the end you do less, as well as end up with a better surface. And surface prep is key in getting a good finish. I still haven't gotten my variable sander yet though. But soon.
HAHAHA you are the exception that likes sanding
@@TexasToastGuitars I said I thinking that during that week...lol...not all the time. I will say the reason I enjoyed it so much is because I was learning a lot about the whole sanding prep work.
Great vid. The variable speed tip is huge. I wasted a bunch of time and sandpaper running it full speed until I took the time to find the right speed for different woods and grits. It's a very rare occasion to run it at full speed. Half is usually plenty.
Thanks Jim
Ha! This reminded me that I needed to get my Dynabrade sander out and make sure I don't need to rebuild it since I just got a new compressor that can run it. I paid a nice bit for it and used it for a month and haven't use it since.
Right on
I already knew how to sand, but I have that Ridgid sander and you may have just changed my life with the dishwasher hose thing, haha. Can't wait to try that. Thanks!
Glad I could help, you will love it
Those Rigid sanders are great. They show up on sale at Direct Tool Supply every so often.
They are nice, I have had that one for several years
Good video, lots of good practices. Like the starting/stopping technique, and letting the tool do the work. Couple of years ago, Fine Woodworking did a whole article on using random orbit sanders, alot of the same ideas. One thing they called out was moving the sander very slowly across the work piece, letting the unit and the paper do its thing.
On maple tops I like going above 220 grit to clarify the figure. I think you can go 320/400 pretty easily with an negative effects.
What kind of wood are you using on that body?? pretty nice looking.
Glad to see you still find time for informational videos. New shop, classes, builds,,, keep it up Matt! If I had a dollar for all the hours watching the classics from the old shop,,,, I could afford to fly ova for a shop visit! Rock it!
Right on!
Mrs' Bad Apple worked for DeWalt for roughly two decades (so of course I have that one) and yes, you can get them without hook-n-loop. Most every manufacturer also offers a Pressure Sensitive Adhesive, or "PSA" version and you can buy a PSA disk to swap yours out. Not that they are "better", but they are out there. I prefer the hook-n-loop.
DeWalt also makes adapters that fit that RoS outlet to adapt to whatever size vacuum hose you have.
Pro Tip -
Make sure you hold the edge of the hook-n-loop when pulling the sandpaper off. It is possible to pull your hook-n-loop pad off with the sandpaper! (don't ask me how I know)
Great video Matt, good tips in here!
I'd love to hear what brand sandpaper you prefer.
Sanding is my favorite part, next to fret work. To me they are both the foundations of a great guitar. But I’m a weirdo snyway
You should probably start a business offering your services! You'd be in hot demand!
love these little tip vids, always a snippet to learn or think about.
Glad you like them Terry
Very useful. Glad I came across this video
Glad to hear it!
Great tips. How do you run the dishwasher with no hose? Don’t you get water on the floor?
Ohhh, you use the shop vacuum to clean it up.
You can tell Mrs TT that I have come to hate the term hack too. People act like it's some secret hot tip these days. It used to be that a hack was a term for a crappy job done or a person who does crappy work. There's better terms to use now so it's not in my vocabulary.
tips on sanding edges and sides please
Thanks, Matt, this was really helpful. I just picked up one of these types of sanders a couple of months ago to speed things up. You just saved me a lot of time on my learning curve.
great video Matt!! will you talk about raising the grain in any future video? thanks!!!
I always do 320 or even as high as 400 on end grain , helps to make an even color as the face grain when using stain . The ash end tables I made I did 400 on the end grain and the color of the stain on the end grain looks just like the face grain sanded with 220 with no darker areas and shows the growth ring lings perfect .
growth ring lings ??? 🤣🤣🤣
You got to be you
@@geoffedwards189 lines .... stupid phone autocorrect does it again ! :(
@@TxStang I hear you! ..lol.. I think we all get good at knowing what someone really meant. Take care my friend.
Another day is complete. I learned something useful and now I can call it a day. 12:38 pm in Houston...and time for a nap. Thanks Matt and Chris. I would have skipped grits but no longer
Glad to help!
Good tips. How do you make sure all the scratches are gone before you add the finish? Every once in a while a find a scratch I didn't see until the first coat of finish is applied. I also am in the sanding haters club!
See Brad Angove's, new video on guide coats to address that problem.
Some pointers as to know, or estimate, when to move on to the next grit paper would have been cool. Good video though. Thanks!
Noted!
Dude, I can't believe you didn't demonstrate how to sand the sides and rounded edges...that's where I always end up with scratches...any tricks for that or do you do that by hand?
I'll do another one
@@TexasToastGuitars Please do,
@@TexasToastGuitars Thanks! That what I'd like to know too.
Great video Matt; some basic but very important tips. Love the channel.
I appreciate that Donald
I don't mind sanding. That's where the project starts to really come alive. Then my favorite part, finishing.
Come on over
I used to have a boss who believed a used piece of 80 was now 120. He’s out of business now.
So you see, the universe has a way of correcting itself! Lol
HAHAHA I don't know why people fart around like that
cool advice
How did you get into guitar building? Why don’t you make acoustic guitars? (I think I know why) What describes you best luthiers, artists, industrialist/entrepreneurs, craftsmen, enthusiasts, or woodworkers?
In a fairly recent video, your new best friend, Brad Angove , said sand all the way to 400. I typically sand to 220.
Well, Brad is wrong
Thanks Toasty Guitar! Point taken - work through the grits. My results usually show larger arch swirls and sometimes tiny pigtail swirls. I think the pigtails came from pressing down on the sander, and I've stopped that. But those larger swirls still plague me. Even after i go to just straight paper on a block with the grain. What do think?
i do a lot of hand sanding because i don't have huge hands an it's tough to hang on an control these orbital sanders :( it's a bummer .. need one with a smaller or different handle .. i'd pay real money for one like that ha!!
Love Dan's head on the wall.
Also, remember to align the pad holes to the sander holes.
Great tip
You can still find the PSA padded random orbital sanders instead of hook and loop. Hook and loop are actually the worst. They conform to corners and round them over as well as if you pass over a rout or hole. Opposite of what you want.
America is a giant country
@@TexasToastGuitars ?
Hi Matt, thanks for the tips. What grit do you use when sanding off a layer of varnish/lacquer?
We run stuff through the drum sander
thats Guns and Guitars back there
Tips on sanding the sides?
Hey Matt, question: if I want to go with a high gloss finish at the end after I stain a body, do I want to go any higher than 220?
No need to sand more
@@TexasToastGuitars you are correct about the 220 Matt my old cabinet making teacher always taught us any more than 220 and the wood doesn't absorb the finish as well.
Is it safe to use this sander on the sides? I am a bit worried I will make a mess of it!
Thanks!
I enjoy sanding. Probably because that is the point where my previous rough work starts to get hidden.
Come on over
How do you feel about vacuum sanding tables with holes to suck the dust down?
I like them
what do you guys think of expensive Mirka/Bosch sanders or pneumatic sanders?
I have never tried one
Brad Angove is speechless at the back there.
HAHAHA He is a cool guy
Sanding does suck, but it is the foundation to a perfect finish. It can be cathartic, though.
All good tips Matt. Dishwasher ehhh!
Hooray! Sandpaper is NOT a luxury item. This is probably the most important piece of info in this vid. Next comes 'let the tool do the work'. It is easy to tell of you are pressing too hard - you won't see/feel the random orbits - the tool will feel like it is sticking. Regrettably, you don't mention the joint second most important ROS tip - go slow. It is unfortunate that you speeded up the actual sanding, so we can't tell the speed you are going at. However slow you think you are going, it is probably too fast. You need to check yourself all the time (or rather I do) to make sure you are slow. WWjournal actually recommends 1 inch per sec! That's about right; feels like sleepwalking but is actually more efficient than moving the ROS faster and gives a better finish.
You need to go as slow as you need to go... but should go as fast as you can possibly go
@@TexasToastGuitars Nicely put! It takes as long as it takes, but no longer.
No instruction video ever says approximately how long a piece of sandpaper lasts?? bout one hour of sanding?? Five hours?? A week ?? How do you know a piece of sandpaper is no good any more??? Some context/approximate would be very helpful.
Do you recommend sanding the corners or is the finish from the router bit sufficient?
I sand the corners last
Sanding is indeed the only sucky part of guitar building!!!
Got a link to or a name for that hose? Or are they all the same?
Just the cheap ones they sell at Home Depot
@@TexasToastGuitars thanx mate!
New T-shirt idea: "Hacks! Hacks! Hacks!"
HAHAHA so many shirts
newbie question: is there any way I can use an ROS to sand the edge of the guitar body? or am I stuck doing the edge by hand? p.s. for the record I don't have a spindle sander yet...
Well, I can sand the edge with the orbital sander. I'm a person and you are a person too... I'm sure you can do it.
having said that you can easily get it off if you are not careful
@@TexasToastGuitars thanks, Mr. Toast! I'm gonna go for it (at least for the 80-grit, anyway).
do you get Mirka Abranet there? much better than paper disks.
I don't know if we do or not
Thoughts on wood filler?
It's okay but I make every effort to not use it
Oh hey! I like surprise TTG videos!
Don't be the tool doing the work. Right on.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
extra sand please Dave
Sanding is the reason that I don't do more woodworking
3rd.
First get a real sander like Mirka 6" or even Festool
Use the 80 sandpaper until it becomes a 220 lol
There are people who seem to think this is a thing