2016-2022 KTM 250 SXF/XCF/EXC Oil Change
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- Опубликовано: 16 авг 2020
- How to change oil on 2016 (SX/XC), 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021 KTM 250 SX-F, XC-F and EXC Model motorcycles. Other later model KTM 4 stokes are quite similar but this covers the most recent KTM Models of four stoke motorcycles. This KTM 250 oil change is very easy and should take less than 20 minutes start to finish.
Torque all bolts to manual specifications to avoid stripping out your cases. (PAGE 100) www.ktmshop.se/documents/16_3...
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Homie was haulin a dirtbike with a dirtbike. I’ve seen it all haha. Thanks for the video man.
Livin the #EpicLife 🤣
You're welcome 🤙
you got me fingering my macbook screen sir @TheTruckhuntervoges
Thanks mate fantastic video just did my 2016 KTM sxf only took me 25 minutes for my first time 👍
Just bought my first bike, about to do this tomorrow so massive thankyou. Really simplistic but thorough. Exactly what I needed.
Congrats. Yep, just take your time and don’t over-torque the bolts and it’s all good. Any bike questions, just let me know. Tons of professional experience and I usually get back pretty quick if I see the comments 🤙
This is why I love RUclips. You can learn so much. I just bought a 2020 KTM 250 SXF and wanted to make sure I knew the proper process for it. Now I do with some nice hacks!!
I have a whole playlist for each bike I own. I imagine you can prob fav or sub to the one list. I'll prob start using this bike in more maint vids, as the ebike really doesn't have much regular maint 🤣
Thanks a lot for this tutorial!
Great video!
I just got a 2017 and this is my first newer bike let alone ktm so this was a big help😂😂
Happy to hear. Enjoy the new ride 🤙
Thanks for that 👌
Does anyone know what the bottom to allen bolts on the bottom of the engine are for ? 2016ktm 250sxf
É normal sair fagulhas de ferro na primeira troca de óleo??? Thanks
Great video! I have a used 2017 SX-F and it’s my first oil change. I’m having a lot of trouble getting the oil drain plug off with the box end wrench and I don’t want to strip it. Any ideas? Mechs out there?
They can tighten themselves up pretty good.
Tip the bike on it's side, sprocket side up so you have a good clear view and space. Make sure it's a good quality tight wrench, make sure you're actually going "Lefty Loosey," put a little tension on it and hold secure while giving it a couple little whacks with a mallet or chunk of 2x4. Sometime things need a little pop to be enticed out. Kind of like a impact.
Doesn't mean it doesn't happen... but I haven't seen one stripped from coming out. They get stripped often going back in.
I made a special wrench just for the drain plug by taking a six point 13mm socket and welding an old screw driver to the side of the socket. By connecting to the side of the socket it's able to fit in that tight spot but has a long easy to hold handle so if previous mechanic overtightened you can easily get it off. I also hate using 12 point sockets and wrenches on bolts cause it marks them up and also can easily strip them
How do you guys torque the drainplug? My torque wrench with socket dose not fit, the frame is in the way…
I just snug it with a closed end wrench. With a new washer and snugged up... very unlikely it comes out. Just like oil caps, drain plugs seem to tighten up, not loosen up. Just don't crank on it like it's an axle bolt or something. Remember that you're going into Aluminum threads.
Completed 1st oil change, 2019 Husky FC250. I used the oil change kit that measures the oil for me. I removed all of the plugs, oil filter housing cover and even leaned the bike over to remove as much oil as possible (bike cold). I cleaned the long screen, reinstalled it, the new oil filter which seated and reinstalled the oil filter housing cover. Just as the manual stated. I then added the exact amount in the oil bottle (1L), leaving some residue in the bottle. The oil level is at the top of the sight glass. When running it the oil drops to the bottom of glass but when sitting level is at the top. This is bothering me badly as it doesn't feel right. Did the bottle from the kit, come over-filled? I don't understand how this happened if I used the exact amount per the manual per their oil change kit. I am going to suck out some to get it to the 50-75% mark on the glass but I still don't get how its overfilled. This is mind-screwing me lol
Haha. I prob run it 3/4 up the window most the time.
That is interesting, but unlikely a problem if you just added the one. I feel like I usually have to add a little more.
Hello.. I have actually one question - SXF 250 2018. Is there only an engine oil change requested? The transmission uses the same oil as engine or you do need to do that separately? Thanks for your reply!
Manual says every 10hrs. There is only one oil (Recommended 10w50 or 10w60). 4T motorcycle oil safe for wet clutches.
what the tow setup?!?!?
Ktm manual says to lay bike on right side and add oil 2/3 full where the oil filter goes in before placing new oil filter. Is that really necessary for the first startup, maybe a few seconds of starvation otherwise?
I don't and haven't ever done that. Seems like it would just drain into the case. If the manual says it, it's certainly not a bad idea. When in doubt, do what the manual says. At the end of the day, I'm just another guy on the Internet and your bike is $10,000 🤣
I like to/hope to think I use good enough oil that everything can handle a few seconds at idle after being warmed up and coated with oil 20 mins before the change. It's not like it's been sitting dry for a year. It literally only takes a few seconds to build oil pressure. You can validate that because auto cam chain tensioners require oil pressure to tighten. The cam chain is only noisy for a moment after startup.
Im literally looking at the manual for my 2016 KTM 250sxf wondering the same thing. I heard it eliminates the potential chance of air pockets.
If you have ANY DOUBT, do what the manual says! 👈 Not sarcasm. It's your investment.
The manual also says change the piston every 20-50 hours, rebuild the engine from the ground up at 100 hours. Don't use any parts not specified by the manufacturer. Did you also not exceed 75% output during the first 3hrs of operation? Do you check the air filter ever 30 minutes? Check all bolts, spokes and fluids before every use? Grease all chassis bearings, check fuel pressure and change oil every 10hrs or after every race?
Chances are ZERO of those things were done.
The manual also doesn't say anything about changing the oil pump idler gear that actually does fail regularly (ie.. your oil pump won't work) and starve the engine of oil. Have you changed it to the updated gear?
My point is, the manual does and doesn't say a lot of things. Please keep the keyboard high and mighty talk in check, because chances are... most commenters don't do 99% of what it says in the manual.
@@coreymitchell2768 Yea, I ended up tilting bike over and resting handlebar on a motorcycle stand and then filled the oil filter cavity before bolting on the cover.
I don’t know why Howerton got so upset over a technical question. I didn’t think you or I were rude or argumentative.
I'm not upset. Simply stating, if it makes sense to you, do it.
I answer hundreds of questions like this on a daily basis across multiple industries (and oil change videos), often pointing out errors, flaws, and double standard to the very manufacturers who produce said products.
Maybe I'm grouchy from working non-stop and I don't sugar coat things. I thought my position was pretty clear at the top. More often than not these threads escalate like it's the end of the world and I tire of repeatedly clarifying things. If I was triggered, I'd just censor/delete critical comments like liberals do.
Read in whatever context you like, but I'm not upset. It was worth asking about and I pinned the question to the top the other day in case others also wondered.
You forgot a step after you have everything opened up, hold down the engine kill button and then hit the start button so it'll cycle that oil that's still up inside the engine out.
Sure, why not 👍
You are not supposed to do that according to the manual…
@@erikbruneskogh2036 what does it say that the manual I've never seen that. Doing that actually gets a lot of extra oil out of there
Don’t have to but I guess why not
Hey. What was that at the end? 690 with a trailor whit a exc on it?
Uroš Gregorec close. 690 with a 250XC-F that time.
This is a 690 with a E-XC on it.
ruclips.net/video/Ls2jiKII_So/видео.html
Uroš Gregorec my bad. Thought that video had more footage. Here's a different one.
ruclips.net/video/mCc90WH6RKo/видео.html
@@JohnHowerton137 that is awsome. 😁
Anyone got a link for that screw in funnel?
www.akramertech.ca/ They make super cool oil filters too.
The Honda oil it’s very poor. And when you said you do a very short cycles … 15 hours. That’s a lot! I do it between 10 hours but only with motorex. My advice. If you are using Honda oil. Do it at maximum 5 hours of use. I’m pretty sure that at 5 hours the oil will surprise you how bad it goes out. Hope it helps you.
I'd like to see data that says the Honda semi-synth stuff is poor. I saw charts years ago that said otherwise.
I was changing it out 5-8hrs on my 350 and it was still gold. Typically starts changing color around 12 hrs or so. If I was sand motoing it I would do it sooner, but it isn't bad. The KTM clutches are so much better than the Japanese clutches they don't burn and contaminate the oil nearly as fast.
@@JohnHowerton137 cmon man. Data? It’s just a humble advice. Take it or leave it. You can do the research. It’s your bike and you take care of it whatever the way you want. Saludos desde chile. Buenos videos
@@carlosmaripanguigonzalez5077 anecdotes only go so far and the internet is brimming full of them. If I put much stake in them at my day job, a lot of people would get hurt. Data matters.
All I’m saying is I did see some data my dealer showed me (also carries Motorex) and that’s why I chose it. The employees run it. Honda isn’t known for poor reliability and their oils tested well when I load tested some of them 20 years ago. I think, or at least they have been... contract made through Mobile1. Also a company with a solid rep. It’s not Walmart Delo or any of that other cheap crap people run... and when it looks dirty, I change it, no matter what the hours. Just seemed unnecessary dumping $30 worth of gold oil into a pan that often. I keep detail maint notes on all my bikes.
When I sand moto’d my 2Ts, I dumped it every ride and it looked/smelled like blended old fish. No way I’d ride it more than twice and only then because I didn’t have time to change it or something.
I appreciate the input and concern, but in my case/conditions... I’m not running it too long.
You say you change oil frequently? You should change the oil like every 2-3 hours…
If I was riding sand motos or hard MX I would change it about that. 15hrs in the XC conditions I ride is plenty frequent. Manual says 10. Riding shoreline at 4,000 RPMs for hours isn't putting much demand on anything 😉 I'm not dumping any more gold colored $30 oil.