Grip Gains Ep. 01 - Climbing Grip Muscles with a Specialist Hand Surgeon

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  • Опубликовано: 30 окт 2024

Комментарии • 44

  • @paulbissonnette7056
    @paulbissonnette7056 9 дней назад +13

    Phenomenal content! Would love more like this for functional and anatomic considerations to hand injury from climbing

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  9 дней назад +1

      Thanks for the feedback! I tried to make the video I wanted 10 years ago when I started my training journey. I can cover injuries, but it would be helpful if you put together some specific questions.

    • @telkmx
      @telkmx 3 дня назад

      @@Mobeta Would love more educational video like that. Straight up training stuff

  • @KrisCantClimb
    @KrisCantClimb 9 дней назад +8

    Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge. This video was both educational and easy to understand!

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  9 дней назад +1

      Thanks, glad it was helpful. I spent countless hours discussing with Dr. Wheelock off camera to try and make it clear and understandable

  • @jackvermaak9800
    @jackvermaak9800 9 дней назад +4

    What an interesting and insightful video!! Loving the more scientific approach to climbing you've been showing in your QnA videos!!

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  8 дней назад +2

      Thanks! I've spent more brain power than I care to admit thinking about gripping boulders 😅

  • @qotsa1234
    @qotsa1234 8 дней назад +3

    Your content deserves so much more attention

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  8 дней назад +1

      I'm glad you liked it enough to say so. That's good enough for me.

  • @pierremilot8117
    @pierremilot8117 9 дней назад +6

    You should definitely show us the 7 exercises!

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  9 дней назад +10

      Thanks for the suggestion. I plan on showing you my selection, and providing some options. There is lots of room for customization when designing your own program.

    • @pierremilot8117
      @pierremilot8117 8 дней назад +1

      @@Mobeta Awesome, thanks!

  • @giotto4321
    @giotto4321 8 дней назад +2

    Very interesting and informative, thanks.

  • @couscousineau9162
    @couscousineau9162 5 дней назад +1

    Dave, was great meeting you at Kong.
    This is amazing content.

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  4 дня назад

      Thanks! Had a great time, thanks for the event. I caught the bug and I'm planning to add some grip sport to my climbing training and to train this winter for a grip event with seb in spring

  • @Simikins
    @Simikins 9 дней назад +1

    Fantastic video, learning so much. Looking forward to the next part in the series!

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  9 дней назад +1

      Thanks for the support! I enjoyed making this video, and am looking forward to keep working on it

  • @illan5505
    @illan5505 8 дней назад +1

    Awesome content ! Looking forward for the follow up video with the differents exercises for each muscle group 😁

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  8 дней назад +1

      Thanks! That's the plan!

  • @sightreader2507
    @sightreader2507 8 дней назад +1

    Looking forward to the next video! This was incredibly informative and interesting. Thanks :)

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  8 дней назад +1

      Appreciate the support! I wasn't sure how much interest there would be, I'm glad you enjoyed it.

    • @sightreader2507
      @sightreader2507 8 дней назад

      @@Mobeta Are you kidding !? In 20 minutes I know exactly why I'm weaker on large pinches and slopers, after years of speculations and uncertainties about how to tackle this weakness. Hand intrinsics, I'm coming for you!
      To be honest, this is unique and precious content among the massive pile of climbing training media, and I'm sure it would attract a ton of attention if the video received some advertisement.

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  8 дней назад

      Awesome! That's exactly how I hoped it would help. I spent years working though these concepts and tried to give the info I wish I had when setting up my training program.

  • @arthurkock881
    @arthurkock881 9 дней назад +1

    amazing video, looking forward to the next

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  8 дней назад +1

      Appreciate the support! This series is a trial, if people are psyched, I'm happy to continue

  • @birdboulders1233
    @birdboulders1233 4 дня назад

    Fantastic content! Very educational. Also, I at first tought you guys are doing this in front of a green screen, since you look so professional, until you grap the hold in the boulder :D

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  3 дня назад +1

      Thanks! That's funny, a good friend just told me the same thing 😁 Dr. Wheelock really elevated the professionalism of the channel, all credit goes to her.

  • @louis6004
    @louis6004 День назад

    This is gold! Thanks 🙏

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  День назад

      You're welcome! Glad it was helpful!

  • @sqealerr
    @sqealerr 8 дней назад +1

    8:25 that form does make you slightly stronger but can cause your lumbricals to tear. Instead, keeping the proximal phalanges (bottom segment of your fingers) in line with one another while climbing on pockets is the safer form because you limit the quadriga effect and reduce the risk of injury.

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  8 дней назад

      Yes, we were alluding to the quadriga effect but purposely limiting jargon. Valid point for those interested, thanks. The specifics of pocket grip safety is beyond the scope here.

  • @manseau7214
    @manseau7214 2 дня назад +1

    Amazing stuff, thank you.
    I still wonder about tendon strength and stiffness. Do they play a role in some climbing grips?
    Always tought that high angle crimps (agressive full crimps) were involving more the tendon than the muscle. And that bigger edges and lower angle crimps were involving more the muscle.
    What do you think? Can't wait to have your opinion on this, feels like the information is nowhere to be found!
    Peace :)

  • @brenenriggs4678
    @brenenriggs4678 8 дней назад +1

    I wonder if there is any use in training extensors? Any thoughts on this, even if just for injury prevention?

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  8 дней назад +1

      Muscle antagonism doesn't work the way it's commonly explained for injury prevention. I train flexors, not extensors, for flexor injury prevention. By far, the number one injury prevention strategy is training the muscle of interest with proper technique, volume, intensity, ergonomics, and recovery. These training fundamentals more the issue - they are poorly understood in the climbing fitness community because training isometrics isn't well understood.

  • @hobgoblin7336
    @hobgoblin7336 9 дней назад +1

    thanks for the insight! what would training for the intrinsic finger flexors look like? This is hard to conceive of for me.

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  9 дней назад +4

      Thanks for the support, motivating to continue the series. And thank you for the question, I will answer it in a follow-up video.

  • @chriswitz3949
    @chriswitz3949 8 дней назад

    Is it fair to say for training efficiency, you dont need to do open crimp since full crimp includes the same anatomy? Assuming enough volume of course.

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  8 дней назад +4

      In multi muscle movement, the muscles that gets the highest training stimulus will be the performance limiting contribution. This will vary by individual. The analogy is bench press. Triceps or pectorals could be limiting. Close handed crimp is FDS + FDP + Intrinsics. In this combination, it's unlikely FDP be performance limiting factor and thus won't recieve adequate training stimulus. We can see this empirically because there are many strong closed crimp specialists with relatively weaker open hand crimp strenght. Considering that FDP is the single most important muscle in climbing, I would target it specifically.

    • @chriswitz3949
      @chriswitz3949 8 дней назад +1

      Awesome. I'm actually an open grip specialist trying to improve my closed grip. After your video everything is starting to make sense. Thanks!

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  8 дней назад +2

      That is super common here. A good friend of mine has done granite V13 FAs but struggled on V6 repeats on bishop micro crimps. Inspirational on one hand, a cautionary tale on the other - a discrepancy that large would take years to even out.

  • @climbingnewfie
    @climbingnewfie 9 дней назад +1

    I hate those "gym" slopers as they thrash my wrists in a way I have never experienced outside, now I know why hahaha

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  9 дней назад +1

      Athletetic tape on the wrist is a common sight in climbing gyms

    • @climbingnewfie
      @climbingnewfie 8 дней назад

      @Mobeta I just stopped going lol

    • @Mobeta
      @Mobeta  8 дней назад +1

      Yeah, me too. Outdoors is so good. You're on a tear these days. Your psych on outdoors reminds me of early mobeta.