Thanks for the feedback! I tried to make the video I wanted 10 years ago when I started my training journey. I can cover injuries, but it would be helpful if you put together some specific questions.
Thanks for the suggestion. I plan on showing you my selection, and providing some options. There is lots of room for customization when designing your own program.
Thanks! Had a great time, thanks for the event. I caught the bug and I'm planning to add some grip sport to my climbing training and to train this winter for a grip event with seb in spring
@@Mobeta Are you kidding !? In 20 minutes I know exactly why I'm weaker on large pinches and slopers, after years of speculations and uncertainties about how to tackle this weakness. Hand intrinsics, I'm coming for you! To be honest, this is unique and precious content among the massive pile of climbing training media, and I'm sure it would attract a ton of attention if the video received some advertisement.
Awesome! That's exactly how I hoped it would help. I spent years working though these concepts and tried to give the info I wish I had when setting up my training program.
Fantastic content! Very educational. Also, I at first tought you guys are doing this in front of a green screen, since you look so professional, until you grap the hold in the boulder :D
Thanks! That's funny, a good friend just told me the same thing 😁 Dr. Wheelock really elevated the professionalism of the channel, all credit goes to her.
8:25 that form does make you slightly stronger but can cause your lumbricals to tear. Instead, keeping the proximal phalanges (bottom segment of your fingers) in line with one another while climbing on pockets is the safer form because you limit the quadriga effect and reduce the risk of injury.
Yes, we were alluding to the quadriga effect but purposely limiting jargon. Valid point for those interested, thanks. The specifics of pocket grip safety is beyond the scope here.
Amazing stuff, thank you. I still wonder about tendon strength and stiffness. Do they play a role in some climbing grips? Always tought that high angle crimps (agressive full crimps) were involving more the tendon than the muscle. And that bigger edges and lower angle crimps were involving more the muscle. What do you think? Can't wait to have your opinion on this, feels like the information is nowhere to be found! Peace :)
Muscle antagonism doesn't work the way it's commonly explained for injury prevention. I train flexors, not extensors, for flexor injury prevention. By far, the number one injury prevention strategy is training the muscle of interest with proper technique, volume, intensity, ergonomics, and recovery. These training fundamentals more the issue - they are poorly understood in the climbing fitness community because training isometrics isn't well understood.
Is it fair to say for training efficiency, you dont need to do open crimp since full crimp includes the same anatomy? Assuming enough volume of course.
In multi muscle movement, the muscles that gets the highest training stimulus will be the performance limiting contribution. This will vary by individual. The analogy is bench press. Triceps or pectorals could be limiting. Close handed crimp is FDS + FDP + Intrinsics. In this combination, it's unlikely FDP be performance limiting factor and thus won't recieve adequate training stimulus. We can see this empirically because there are many strong closed crimp specialists with relatively weaker open hand crimp strenght. Considering that FDP is the single most important muscle in climbing, I would target it specifically.
That is super common here. A good friend of mine has done granite V13 FAs but struggled on V6 repeats on bishop micro crimps. Inspirational on one hand, a cautionary tale on the other - a discrepancy that large would take years to even out.
![How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I_-YapmymjA/mqdefault.jpg)
Phenomenal content! Would love more like this for functional and anatomic considerations to hand injury from climbing
Thanks for the feedback! I tried to make the video I wanted 10 years ago when I started my training journey. I can cover injuries, but it would be helpful if you put together some specific questions.
@@Mobeta Would love more educational video like that. Straight up training stuff
Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge. This video was both educational and easy to understand!
Thanks, glad it was helpful. I spent countless hours discussing with Dr. Wheelock off camera to try and make it clear and understandable
What an interesting and insightful video!! Loving the more scientific approach to climbing you've been showing in your QnA videos!!
Thanks! I've spent more brain power than I care to admit thinking about gripping boulders 😅
Your content deserves so much more attention
I'm glad you liked it enough to say so. That's good enough for me.
You should definitely show us the 7 exercises!
Thanks for the suggestion. I plan on showing you my selection, and providing some options. There is lots of room for customization when designing your own program.
@@Mobeta Awesome, thanks!
Very interesting and informative, thanks.
Dave, was great meeting you at Kong.
This is amazing content.
Thanks! Had a great time, thanks for the event. I caught the bug and I'm planning to add some grip sport to my climbing training and to train this winter for a grip event with seb in spring
Fantastic video, learning so much. Looking forward to the next part in the series!
Thanks for the support! I enjoyed making this video, and am looking forward to keep working on it
Awesome content ! Looking forward for the follow up video with the differents exercises for each muscle group 😁
Thanks! That's the plan!
Looking forward to the next video! This was incredibly informative and interesting. Thanks :)
Appreciate the support! I wasn't sure how much interest there would be, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
@@Mobeta Are you kidding !? In 20 minutes I know exactly why I'm weaker on large pinches and slopers, after years of speculations and uncertainties about how to tackle this weakness. Hand intrinsics, I'm coming for you!
To be honest, this is unique and precious content among the massive pile of climbing training media, and I'm sure it would attract a ton of attention if the video received some advertisement.
Awesome! That's exactly how I hoped it would help. I spent years working though these concepts and tried to give the info I wish I had when setting up my training program.
amazing video, looking forward to the next
Appreciate the support! This series is a trial, if people are psyched, I'm happy to continue
Fantastic content! Very educational. Also, I at first tought you guys are doing this in front of a green screen, since you look so professional, until you grap the hold in the boulder :D
Thanks! That's funny, a good friend just told me the same thing 😁 Dr. Wheelock really elevated the professionalism of the channel, all credit goes to her.
This is gold! Thanks 🙏
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful!
8:25 that form does make you slightly stronger but can cause your lumbricals to tear. Instead, keeping the proximal phalanges (bottom segment of your fingers) in line with one another while climbing on pockets is the safer form because you limit the quadriga effect and reduce the risk of injury.
Yes, we were alluding to the quadriga effect but purposely limiting jargon. Valid point for those interested, thanks. The specifics of pocket grip safety is beyond the scope here.
Amazing stuff, thank you.
I still wonder about tendon strength and stiffness. Do they play a role in some climbing grips?
Always tought that high angle crimps (agressive full crimps) were involving more the tendon than the muscle. And that bigger edges and lower angle crimps were involving more the muscle.
What do you think? Can't wait to have your opinion on this, feels like the information is nowhere to be found!
Peace :)
I wonder if there is any use in training extensors? Any thoughts on this, even if just for injury prevention?
Muscle antagonism doesn't work the way it's commonly explained for injury prevention. I train flexors, not extensors, for flexor injury prevention. By far, the number one injury prevention strategy is training the muscle of interest with proper technique, volume, intensity, ergonomics, and recovery. These training fundamentals more the issue - they are poorly understood in the climbing fitness community because training isometrics isn't well understood.
thanks for the insight! what would training for the intrinsic finger flexors look like? This is hard to conceive of for me.
Thanks for the support, motivating to continue the series. And thank you for the question, I will answer it in a follow-up video.
Is it fair to say for training efficiency, you dont need to do open crimp since full crimp includes the same anatomy? Assuming enough volume of course.
In multi muscle movement, the muscles that gets the highest training stimulus will be the performance limiting contribution. This will vary by individual. The analogy is bench press. Triceps or pectorals could be limiting. Close handed crimp is FDS + FDP + Intrinsics. In this combination, it's unlikely FDP be performance limiting factor and thus won't recieve adequate training stimulus. We can see this empirically because there are many strong closed crimp specialists with relatively weaker open hand crimp strenght. Considering that FDP is the single most important muscle in climbing, I would target it specifically.
Awesome. I'm actually an open grip specialist trying to improve my closed grip. After your video everything is starting to make sense. Thanks!
That is super common here. A good friend of mine has done granite V13 FAs but struggled on V6 repeats on bishop micro crimps. Inspirational on one hand, a cautionary tale on the other - a discrepancy that large would take years to even out.
I hate those "gym" slopers as they thrash my wrists in a way I have never experienced outside, now I know why hahaha
Athletetic tape on the wrist is a common sight in climbing gyms
@Mobeta I just stopped going lol
Yeah, me too. Outdoors is so good. You're on a tear these days. Your psych on outdoors reminds me of early mobeta.