You can swap the plastic ends of a stock radiator with good ones off a newer broken radiator from the wreckers by folding the tabs up carefully, cleaning the big o-ring and tapping the tabs back down onto the new plastic piece, it works really well if you take your time.
Mine got to 105C during summer. Probably very lucky I didn't crack the head. I'm also trying to work out a way for a FMIC without getting rid of my AC. There is not much room in there. Good work to you as usual :)
105 is ok. Anything over 110 I would be starting to get worried. I've been at 120 before when my rad cap was stuffed and engine was still fine. I obviously shut it off though
I just bought a 1992 Hilux here in the US, the previous owner replaced the radiator that just uses 2 little electric fans I'm not sure what brand any of it is right now I just got it back home. The guy told me it ran fine and I could drive it 1k miles back home, but 30 minutes down the road it was over heating but it was also like 110 degrees Fahrenheit outside. But because I wasn't really aware of the vehicle and how it ran I got it to like 260 to 280 degrees Fahrenheit. Hopefully it didn't ruin anything he already replaced the head with the 3.0l version one. I believe it's stock height with 33 inch tires though so a little more drag on it than stock. But now it's hard to get it to start. I have to crank it over a couple times and then once it starts rev it up for maybe 10 seconds and then it'll stay running. It also leaks oil from the rear main seal and maybe other places I had to trailer it home last weekend and haven't had time to look at it yet. But I'm guessing I'll need a better radiator setup so if anyone has some links or brands to stick with that'd be great I doubt anyone here in the US carries anything so I'll have to get it shipped over.
you are lucky that your ac condenser is not on the bottom where the bash plate is. mine is an LN130 with a factory cooling system and automatic, Yet to see it overheat flogging it up hills but now you got me keeping an eye out for it.
Hey dude my car struggles with its cooling would you fab and sell that bottom stainless pipe? I’d love to do this but don’t have the welding skills to do the piping part
A really good cooling mod i did on my ln172 was replace my fucked out AC condenser. Also check out elite weld they make custom fans for these they use a Mitsubishi truck fan only thing you will need to do is make a bigger bottom fan shroud.
Hi i have a auto kzn130 toyota surf and am going to install a aftermarket trans cooler ive read alot of guys just use the aftermarket transcooler by itself then others say integrate it in with the factory cooler radiator also the aftermarket trans cooler is 200mm x 200mm wondering if this is big enough and does it have to be bleed up when its installed
I would personally get a standalone cooler for the trans. As for whether that would be big enough - I don't know, I would try go a bit bigger if you could as it's a pretty important thing to keep cool.
do the solid axle swap just like just like evrery one else has wy did they make ifs shit for when you have to do solid swap .even the latest 2022 4x4 first mod is solid axle swap and plastic rocker cover.
@@boostedbuiltgarage Assuming you have the 1kz-te, which it looks like in the video; putting the thermostat before the radiator instead of after gives you a more consistent operating temp and coolant flow. In the stock position, it's regulated by the passing coolant on the exit side of the thermostat so when it gets to temp and starts opening, a surge of cold coolant rushes from the radiator. Even though the car is at temp or even sometimes too hot, this cold liquid causes the thermo to snap shut. If the thermostat is mounted before the radiator, only hot coolant can flow past and there's no sudden changes in temp opening/closing of the thermostat. Another good and easy mod is to change the resistor on the temp gauge. People were complaining that the temp was jumping around a lot and getting hot etc so Toyota put a stronger resistor in to keep the needle more steady. The downside with this "fix" is you don't get accurate temp readings. If it says hot, it's already too late. These two things are the cause of many cracked heads in an otherwise amazing motor.
It's actually a 2lte. Thermostat is in stock position and seems to work fine. I have full instrumentation of all temps and pressures via my DEFI 10 in 1 gauge in the cab
I'd bet if you fuck those steel heater lines running above the manifold and run them somewhere else you would see a big diff, I had problems with a kzn165 no matter what I did temps would steadily creep up towing and constant high load. Yours arnt in as a bad spot as the kzn but still close. I had this prob from stock to mech pump running 20 plus , nothing worked as good as re-routing what Toyota did
surf episodes are my favourites!!!
You can swap the plastic ends of a stock radiator with good ones off a newer broken radiator from the wreckers by folding the tabs up carefully, cleaning the big o-ring and tapping the tabs back down onto the new plastic piece, it works really well if you take your time.
Love watching your progress mate.
I've just turbocharged a 3L 4 Runner, so very interested to see temps.
Mine got to 105C during summer. Probably very lucky I didn't crack the head. I'm also trying to work out a way for a FMIC without getting rid of my AC. There is not much room in there. Good work to you as usual :)
105 is ok. Anything over 110 I would be starting to get worried. I've been at 120 before when my rad cap was stuffed and engine was still fine. I obviously shut it off though
I just bought a 1992 Hilux here in the US, the previous owner replaced the radiator that just uses 2 little electric fans I'm not sure what brand any of it is right now I just got it back home. The guy told me it ran fine and I could drive it 1k miles back home, but 30 minutes down the road it was over heating but it was also like 110 degrees Fahrenheit outside. But because I wasn't really aware of the vehicle and how it ran I got it to like 260 to 280 degrees Fahrenheit. Hopefully it didn't ruin anything he already replaced the head with the 3.0l version one. I believe it's stock height with 33 inch tires though so a little more drag on it than stock. But now it's hard to get it to start. I have to crank it over a couple times and then once it starts rev it up for maybe 10 seconds and then it'll stay running. It also leaks oil from the rear main seal and maybe other places I had to trailer it home last weekend and haven't had time to look at it yet. But I'm guessing I'll need a better radiator setup so if anyone has some links or brands to stick with that'd be great I doubt anyone here in the US carries anything so I'll have to get it shipped over.
Love to see you back man 👍 hope Toby is doing well
you are lucky that your ac condenser is not on the bottom where the bash plate is. mine is an LN130 with a factory cooling system and automatic, Yet to see it overheat flogging it up hills but now you got me keeping an eye out for it.
Hey dude my car struggles with its cooling would you fab and sell that bottom stainless pipe? I’d love to do this but don’t have the welding skills to do the piping part
Any photos of how u mounted the radiator like the bolt holes?
A really good cooling mod i did on my ln172 was replace my fucked out AC condenser. Also check out elite weld they make custom fans for these they use a Mitsubishi truck fan only thing you will need to do is make a bigger bottom fan shroud.
Ohhh hand brake for an 80. Can't wait.
Havin overheatin issues can u pls put link from where u got radiator cheers
Going with copper/brass rad,elec fans,frount mount intercooler..barra overflow tank..2.5 exhaust..egr blank..evans waterless coolant
Did you do this ? Any news on how it went,
Does the 10 blade 1kz fan bolt straight onto the 2lte fan or does it require fabrication? Thanks
Should bolt straight on
Awesome bro get some idea on how to swap 2nd gen radiator
Hi i have a auto kzn130 toyota surf and am going to install a aftermarket trans cooler ive read alot of guys just use the aftermarket transcooler by itself then others say integrate it in with the factory cooler radiator also the aftermarket trans cooler is 200mm x 200mm wondering if this is big enough and does it have to be bleed up when its installed
I would personally get a standalone cooler for the trans. As for whether that would be big enough - I don't know, I would try go a bit bigger if you could as it's a pretty important thing to keep cool.
Nice work man
Will a OEM top mount intercooler from a 4EFTE fit the 2LTE?
Doesn’t hurt to run a chain or limiting strap on engine mounts I found on my v6 commo swapped hilux as it would stretch out and tear the rubber
Yeah if it happens again I'll be going to bomb proof mounts (which I wish I knew about before I bought OEM mounts haha)
What bout your turbo have you fixed it yet
Where’d you get your front recovery points mate?
They're 80/105 series
@@boostedbuiltgarage did you have to do anything custom or did they bolt straight onto the chassis?
2 of the 3 bolt holes line up on the captive threads in the chassis
do the solid axle swap just like just like evrery one else has wy did they make ifs shit for when you have to do solid swap .even the latest 2022 4x4 first mod is solid axle swap and plastic rocker cover.
Did you relocate your thermostat?
No, still in normal spot. Why you ask?
@@boostedbuiltgarage
Assuming you have the 1kz-te, which it looks like in the video; putting the thermostat before the radiator instead of after gives you a more consistent operating temp and coolant flow.
In the stock position, it's regulated by the passing coolant on the exit side of the thermostat so when it gets to temp and starts opening, a surge of cold coolant rushes from the radiator. Even though the car is at temp or even sometimes too hot, this cold liquid causes the thermo to snap shut. If the thermostat is mounted before the radiator, only hot coolant can flow past and there's no sudden changes in temp opening/closing of the thermostat.
Another good and easy mod is to change the resistor on the temp gauge. People were complaining that the temp was jumping around a lot and getting hot etc so Toyota put a stronger resistor in to keep the needle more steady. The downside with this "fix" is you don't get accurate temp readings. If it says hot, it's already too late. These two things are the cause of many cracked heads in an otherwise amazing motor.
It's actually a 2lte. Thermostat is in stock position and seems to work fine.
I have full instrumentation of all temps and pressures via my DEFI 10 in 1 gauge in the cab
@@boostedbuiltgarage
Ah ok. I used to have the 1kz so thought I'd mention all that as it looked like one. Disregard then haha
Where are you headlights from
Ultraflex 4x4
@@boostedbuiltgarage awsome thank you is that a kzn130 and did u have to buy a loom to make them work or cut any plastic or did they just slot in
No it's an LN130 but same same. I got the loom from Ultraflex and they fit straight in place of the stock lights
Anyone know where to get front solid axles?
Trademe
AFR? What’s that abbreviation mean sorry
Air:Fuel Ratio
I'd bet if you fuck those steel heater lines running above the manifold and run them somewhere else you would see a big diff, I had problems with a kzn165 no matter what I did temps would steadily creep up towing and constant high load. Yours arnt in as a bad spot as the kzn but still close. I had this prob from stock to mech pump running 20 plus , nothing worked as good as re-routing what Toyota did
Fuckin too much talking