How to measure your flash exposure without a light meter
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- This video shows how you can measure your flash exposure without using a light meter. While the video is demonstrated on a Canon 60D using the wireless flash functions in conjunction with a 430EXII, the technique for measuring the exposure can be done with any camera!
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Mark, This is brilliant, and exactly what I've been looking for since I don't have a flash meter. I tested your system using my old Vivitar 283, Nikon D70 and a white umbrella in shoot-thru position. Just a few quick tests yielded a white towel that wasn't blown out. Then I stuck my son where the towel had been and got a beautifully exposed picture first time. I may "string" this light to make picture taking easily repeatable. This is extremely helpful to me, Mark, so thank you.
Well done Mark. I learned a lot in a short time and didn't realise that the 60D had this capability. Now I have subscribed and going to practise, practise, practise - thanks
Not sure why there are ANY dislikes here. Your video is brilliantly clear and very well presented. I was having problems following other tutorials on flash exposure and finding a cheap but decent flash and light meter. This is extremely useful and I think your video on custom white balance may be just as useful. And you do music tuts too! Thanks a lot, Mark. I know you haven't posted for a while but...subscribing.
+Cricri You're welcome! I'm in the process of a move but once I get settled I plan on making a lot more videos! Stay tuned!
Very thorough explanation! I was only expecting to learn about how to measure my flash exposure but I'm impressed and appreciative you took the time to be extremely detailed, but not overly, to help so many people!
+King Rosales Thanks!
Excellent job on this demonstration. I look forward to checking out your other stuff now. It's refreshing to see concise organized information presented the way you did it here on this subject.
Thanks!
Great great video. I'm new to flash photography and somewhat intimidated by all the new variables that come into play (like camera exposure compensation vs. flash compensation, slower shutter speed vs. higher ISO)... You did a great job of walking a newbie through a pretty complex subject. Thanks Mark.
I always have a problem with flash exposure
Excellent teacher Marc
Take advantage of this wonderful video
Thank you
I will be back to try it
Thanks for the straightforward explanation and example. I've been shooting for a while, had several classes but this is the clearest most practical demonstration I've seen. Thanks.
+Chris Albright Thanks and you're welcome!
Thanks Danny! I'm not here for the haters, I'm here to help people who want to learn. I know you can't please everyone all the time so if they don't like my videos there are other channels and teachers that may be able to help them out. It's people like you that do appreciate what I'm doing that makes me want to continue making videos and continue teaching. Your comment us much appreciated and thanks for the support!
I know this is a old video of yours Mark but I just wanted to say you did a very good job explaining how to do this. I've been a professional photographer for 22 years and I wish I had a video like this or someone to show/explain how to do this back in the days when I was learning. I know not all camera menu's are going to be a little different but it should be a good starting point for the new guys. Keep up the good work.
You are very well-spoken and a great teacher. Thanks for taking the time to out together this great tutorial--especially since you're demonstrating with something other than the flagship-model flash (I have a Canon 430ex myself). Just subscribed!
Thank you so much for this video.....covers almost everything for people who doesnt have a clue about flash settings....
It's great that you worked in conjunction with the histogram. Informative and useful video. Cheers Mark!
Your videos are always very helpful and easy to follow. Thank you!
AWESOME video Mark! Thanks. Operations of the camera was a bit much but then again it's understood for the reason of doing so.
Cheers!
I whole heartily agree light meters are the best way to get accurate exposure but for those that can't afford one as of yet this is a suitable solution. I can usually determine my exposure in 1-2 shots. You're typically going to take one to two shots dialing in with a meter as well! I use almost the same setup for everything so I know exactly where to start with and often don't have to adjust at all. This comes with time and experience.
One more time, after reading some of the comments, I want to say thank you. Anyone using youtube to try to figure out how to do something is usually not going to be a pro. So, I suspect anyone replying to a video on flash exposure is likewise not earning "$15,000 per hour" as a photographer either. My guess is they are still trying to break even paying for their photographic equipment. With that said, in this digital age, amature photographers are beginning to produce better stuff than the so call pros. It's easy to be a critic when you can hide behind the anonymity of youtube. Keep up the good work, and once again great video!
Very good video. I hadn’t considered using the histogram as a guide to set up flash power.
Great video Warren. Canon's on camera flash control is great but not easy to navigate especially if there has been time between the last your used it and shoot day. Your video is a great refresher of the system setup.
For people like me that have just begun "shooting" this was very Helpful. Thank you very much. ;)
I don't have meter or a grey card & used your method for a portrait - great! I had flash pointing forward and used a piece of string to measure distance of flash to subject so as not to have to repeat process as long as using the same flash and 3 exposure settings on camera. Once set up, it's easy to adjust settings for effect (e.g. aperture for depth of field) by countering the resultant Stop change in another setting, remembering to watch ambient and inverse square law for flash distance.
Thanks Mark...this was very helpful especially when you're on a tight budget and don't have a hand held light meter. This technique provides a great alternative.
You're welcome!
Hi Mark I like your straight foward aproach, thanks for the tips.
just remember if your shooting raw files the histogram is a jpg preview . the raw file usually is less exposed/histogram in lightroom and has lots more room for clipping in the highlights.
I come to this video every once in a while to freshen up, thank you!!!!
Rex You're welcome!!
Best of Class video - great job explaining these flash settings that are a little "rub-your-head-pat-your-stomach" with so much to get right. Sped me along in my understanding. Did you do a video on how/why to use the groupings - sounds like it is a capability more intended for a complex studio setup, not for nature photography.
The white towel is a nice trick I never thought of. Thank you for the video!
Hi Mark, Thanks for posting this. Just one comment: it would be better if this was posted as 2 videos, the first 8 minutes is all about how to trigger the flash equipment wirelessly and is largely an independent matter from how to expose the picture. Cheers. - Nikhil
Thanks for your clear Infos on the flash exposure Mark and the extras too.
thank you for the advise. I was looking for some tips to help me with a photo shoot I have lined up for today and you help to "de-stress" me LOL. I have the exact cam and speedlites you have and it made more sense to me to watch the video and set up along with your demonstrations. Thank you again.
-Erro
PS: I would like to learn more about setting up the WB to get the right/best color in my images.
I have not done a video with groups as of yet but this setup could be used for a small studio setup... as long as you have good line of site so the popup can fire the remotes. You may be only limited to a certain number of modifiers like umbrellas but it will certainly work.
You could follow the same steps for using on camera flash but if you're on vacation that could take up more time. Many times when I'm the go I just Ettl mode and let the camera do most of the work. I'll use flash compensation to fine tune the adjustment. Evening portraits at sunset can be a little more tricky for Ettl so I may switch to manual but since I've doing this so long I pretty much know how much power and how far I need to be away to make the flash work. Have a great vacation.
I believe the original poster was referring to the in camera meter to adjust the exposure and not a handheld light meter! If you try to use the in camera meter to determine flash exposure it will NOT work. The in camera meter will only take into consideration the ambient light if you're using a manual flash. What you stated was true if he is referring to a handheld light meter. If he is referring to the handheld meter what I stated originally is true.
You have a very clever way of getting the right exposure without a meter. The problem happens when you are working fast, different backgrounds, different subject and you cannot take the time to do what the video shows. For example, if you are photographing a party, many different people, using TTL on your flash would be the most efficient way of getting a good exposure almost in every shot, excel if the subject is extremely bright or extremely dark. This system works great when doing still life shots or product photography.
When it comes to working fast it's not really a problem at all if... the distance between the subject and the flash never changes! For example if I have a background setup and my flash let's say 7ft from the subject. I put a spot where the subject will stand. I just have to do this technique one time and my flash exposure stays the same all throughout the shoot! It doesn't matter if I change the background or if the subjects are of different complexions. Flash exposure is based off of distance and power of the flash and nothing else. Light meters technically work the same way. It's common for many people to think that you need to change the flash power depending on the subject but this is not true. Lets say you up the power for a dark complexion and then your next subject has a light complexion. You then decrease the flash power. Well what if you have a dark and light complexion in the same shot. Who do you adjust for now?
When it comes to i or eTTL in the same stationary setup the flash can be inconsistent because it's basing the flash exposure off the exposure of the subject. Skin complexions and clothing can affect the flash exposure from shot to shot and you may find yourself using flash compensation more for the adjustments.
Now I would use i or eTTL flash if the subjects and the flash were constantly moving. It can make life much easier and it can be faster. However that being said, I learned manual flash long before I ever got a TTL flash and I can make adjustments on the fly just as fast as iTTL by knowing my what my f/stop should be at certain zones. I did this all the time shooting weddings. I would setup my flashes off camera and know the zones for the flash power I set. For example at 5ft I would be at f/8, at 15ft I would be f/4, 25 ft I maybe f/1.8. These are exact numbers but you get the idea.
I don't rely on any one technique of the other I use the best technique for the job that I'm doing to get the most consistent results.
Cheers!
A good example of that is when shooting at a wedding various family groups, all groups in front of the same background. In that setup I would shoot manual only, after figuring out my correct exposure based on the light-to-subject distance, combined with the known light output of my flash, i.e., at 15' away from the group I figured out the exposure needed is f/5.6. To be even more consistent with the exposure, that specific setup would be shot with a tripod.
+Learning with Mark Warren that's a really good insight on the meaning behind your video I never think about it like that that makes a lot of sense though
Just what I needed to clarify the confusing flash setup.
Thank you very much for the wonderful tutorial
Khalid Al-Baloushi You're welcome!
I loved watching your video. It is so straightforward and to-the-point. Excellent job! I have definitely subscribed.
I have a couple of Nikon cameras that I can't wait to try this technique on. One camera has a "commander" mode and the other doesn't. So, I guess that may be an issue.
Anyway, thanks Mark for taking the time to teach us something new.
Excellent Video Mark, I reflect back to this video every once in a while for a great refresher. Thanks Mark for all you do. I subscribed to your great video tutorials. Thanks a million, Ray
+Ray Best Thanks! I'm in the process of a move right now but once I get settled I'll be making all new videos! Stay tuned!
If you use your meter to try to determine the exposure then it will take in to consideration the ambient light which means in a low light room you'll have a really slow shutter speed. Often times you may not want that much ambient light mixed with your flash images because can most certainly cause strange color casts.
I wish more people were like you Mark Warren
Very good video and explanations. I am hoping you can cover this for ambient light outside. Thanks for sharing Mark.
Anthony Louis You're welcome! I have an older video showing flash and ambient lighting that covers using a Vivtar 285 manual flash. I do plan to make some newer videos covering this subject soon! Thanks!
WOW, it took a while for me to find you site, but it certainly did open some doors for me. Thank you so much
You're welcome!
Diana Stanford wide Angle macro
White balance only sets the camera's color temperature. You still need to determine the exposure and that's the reason for using the white towel. The camera can be in auto focus as long is it can focus on the towel. Terry cloth towels usually have enough detail that the camera can pick up and focus on. I kept this video simple with just the one flash but multiple flashes in different groups can certainly be used via the same method. Thanks for checking my video out!
Mark: I truly appreciate the work it takes. I have a few videos and know what it takes so for your dedication, you have a new follower. Keep up the great work. I could reply on the other comments.
Nice job explaining how to do this with the flash!
Love when you do presentations using the same equipment that I have.
Mark, Once your vid got to the 7:45 point, you began discussing the topic at hand. Everything to that point was about a different subject than the title suggests. Excuse the pun, but stayed "focused" on your subject and eliminate the distractions. Thanks!
I love it. You are a good instructor. Good work.
loved your video, clear simple and easy to understand - i will look for more
Exactly! You can expose for your highlights, midtones or even shadows.
another great tutorial Mark. I liked its' simplicity.
Thanks Mark for sharing your knowledge ! I will watch you new video then. Apologies for my broken english.
fantastic detailed video Mark. thank you!
So little good and clear explanations and happy to see a very good one with alternative explanation. Hope to find one for external flash now. tyvm +1
Great video Mark. Actually learnt about controlling the canon flash power output from my 70d. Was always under the impression you needed a canon master flash on the hotshoe to do this so did not bother .as i didn't want to waste my seconf flash. Thanks
To change the zoom usually it's just press the zoom button on the flash and pressing the left or right arrow until you get the zoom you want. If it's not doing it on your flash it could be something wrong with it.
Here's a cool tip: If you're having problems with the pop-up flash showing up in the exposure, cover the pop-up flash with an old, black film negative. The UV light will still pass through the negative and trigger the remote flash, but 99% of visible light will be blocked. you can find really dark frames of negative at the end of the developed film roll.
Thanks Mark Warren! Love the video. Love your work!
You're welcome and thanks!
I believe at the time I was using a Sigma 30mm f/1.4 on this video. The flash was bouncing behind me off a white wall. If I didn't have a back wall I would use a shoot through umbrella instead to diffuse and spread the light. It's all about turning your small light source into a larger light source!
Thanks for sharing the tip on flash exposure. . Nice job mark.
I like your videos. They are very simple to understand.
Exactly the information I was hunting for. Many thanks
Cheers
Jim
It was a massive help! Thank you very much for this tutorial.
You're welcome!
I never learned how to use the histogram but seems like I ought to! Nice work...
Great job. You make it look very easy.
. . . It may be handy for your pupils if you made a video on the Rope Meter technique. By the way, I set the exposure up with your method using bare flash at 50mm zoom and placed my shoot through umbrella on to calculate, again with your method, how much more exposure I needed to soften the light - 2 full stops for my cheap umbrella. So I can factor that in. I placed a second knot in the string to double the flash distance (2 stop change - Inv Sq Law) providing flexibility in flash position
Very well explained, thank you !
Really informative! Thank you!! You explained this in simple terms!!
You're welcome!
I always shoot in RAW and even though the image on the back of the camera is a jpg preview this technique still works determining exposure with flash. The RAW file will give you more detail and latitude for adjustments but this technique will get you very close. The image on the back of the screen look blues but it's only because the exposure for the screen was brighter than what the video cam was set to. The WB was set to AWB and was pretty close but since I shoot RAW I can adjust it in post.
Clear and concise. Thank you for making this understandable.
Thanks. Im looking at buying my first flashlite. Very helpful.
Hello, excellent video & nicely explained . Now i am going to try .
You will probably have to go with a radio trigger or if you stick with canon gear an STE2 and a 430EXII or 530EXII to do a wireless setup. A $40- $80 manual flash plus a cheap wireless radio trigger set ($30+/-) will do fine for starting in flash photography!
The histogram is a wonderful tool to judge the exposure of your images!
Very nice I enjoyed every second of it !!!
Very nice video as I got a 430II and am to buy a 60D,perfect.
So detailed! Learned a lot. Thank you!!!
I like the way you explain. thank you!
Excellent tip, Mark. Appreciate the time you took to share this info'. Stay cool! ;)
Mart Henley You're welcome and Thanks!
Yes it's true that FE Lock will work and while I'm showing this using a wireless ETTL flash not everyone has one. This technique can be used with any camera system and any flash! Things like automation help make our jobs easier as photogs but it also makes us lazy so we don't think. What if that stuff breaks? What if you happen to get a hold of a studio flash? Then what do you do? Learning manual flash will help you know your lighting and later you can use stuff to make your job easier.
I love to see Canon shooters using the WIRELESS system. It's the best (I have a 60D, too). I remember cutting my teeth on it as a Minolta shooter (before Canon acquired it through a tech swap, followed by Nikon. Sony has it because they acquired Minolta). But Canon improved it a LOT.
Thanks Mark, just what I was looking for.
However I'm Nikon user but I'm still found this being usable for me. Thank you for posting this video.
Praet0ri4n This technique works for any camera so I'm glad you found it useful!
Good video and easy to understand. Thanks!
You're welcome!
nice tutorial Mark. Tell us more about the zoom setting on the flash
Thanks for the video. This is still a lot of trail and changing settings. A light meter still gets you into the correct shot with one shot. Also can you change you power settings on a Nikon camera? Thanks again for the time it takes to create great content. Take Care.
Very helpful tip, thanks Mark!! I'm just starting out so I don't really have the funds for all the essentials for studio work.
Excellent tutorial, Mark! I just subscribed. Thank you so much!
The screen looking blue was due to the video recording settings. The 60D screen is black. As for the YN-560II it will not work with the popup flash on the 60D because it's not a true ETTL flash like the 430EXII or 580EXII. However you can put the YN-560II in S1 or S2 slave mode and trigger it with the pop up.
Thank you so MUCH, this is very clear and to the point!!!
Great tip Mark. Thank you.
Hi Mark,
Nice Tip. Thanks for the video. Great work !
I 've thought about something similar before: I ask the model to hold a white-card just in front of her/his face.
But unfortunately one problem remains. If the model has a dark skintone or dark clothing, than the picture will be underexposed anyway. Is there a method to avoid this without ETTL ?
Thanks ! very good explanation.
great great video i love your work Mr. Warren
Great video tutorial. Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome!
Thx for sharing your wisdom with us!
This was very good Mark..
hello, i'm pretty new to strobist work...
i'm wondering, why you have used a white towel... also how big (how much of the frame) should that towel be..
can i use a grey card for the same purpose? also how big should that be?
i have a shoot using rented out strobes, but don't have a light meter or ttl ..
thanks in advance.... this video helped me think without a light meter...
Thanks Mark, I really appreciate this info.
A light meter may help you get a shot there a little be faster but not by much. Ex. Say I want to take a shot at f/4.0. I get my light meter and it reads 8.0. I then have to adjust my flash and then test again. This could take more than one shot. See what I mean? As for power settings on a Nikon, Nikon does use CLS to make adjustments to on and off camera flash so if this feature is built into the camera then you can work the same way Canon does. Hope this helps.
Trying to change my zoom on my 430x... It never let's me go over that option to change it... Any ideas? Only worked the first time I used it but not since I tried it on my camera. Great Tutorial by the way.