I've been wanting to make something like this for a while, but hadn't decided on a design. Just this past weekend I had to use a tiny dead center on the end of a shaft I needed to thread because I didn't have a live center than would allow any of my threading tools to reach the end of the shaft. I once again resolved to...figure out what to make. And now here you are showing me not just what to make but how. Thanks, Steve!!
Hi Steve, I'm a new Subscriber and just recently got into machining. I don't know why it took so long as I have loved making things from scratch for as long as I can remember. I just acquired my first Delta Rockwell 1460 wood lathe a few weeks ago, That previous owner attempted to convert for milling soft metals. I just love it and have made further mods to make the experience more enjoyable and possible. Just wanted to thank you for your Tips, Tricks and Instructions for working with lathes. I've already taken in a lot from you. Thanks again and Keep on turning.
Made this on a Chinese lathe and it works well. I needed to go back and look again at the video - polishing the spindle turned out to be essential - there isn't much torque so the spindle has to turn smoothly. Good project.
never disappointed, always enjoy videos with Mr.Jordan..... it is very inspiring to watch and we ,I get a lot of satisfaction watching, one of my favorite channels ,waiting for the next one ,thank you Steve......
I like it! Watching the video I was thinking that bearings no good, can't take any thrust! Then the ball bearing appeared. I'll be copying that. Thanks Steve.
What a great idea Steve! my toolholders are full of notches that I have ground away to avoid clashing with the centre when turning small stuff, so I will be making one of these - Thanks for another inspiring idea, and a great video :)
Very good setup there. I would add a cross hole through it after the bearing for a pin so it could be stationary if needed. You could drill, ream, and use it for live center too.
this also would make a nice tap driver, for small taps and drills ( just rotate the collet with a spanner and the holder keeps the tap/etc. aligned to the hole).
We got banggood ER16 metric collet set. Some are even marked with Imperial sizes and most out of concentricity, some massively! Like the 3mm diameter is 2.8mm out. Great for turning eccentrics!
Another option for spindles is to use injector pins which are hardened and come in many sizes and lengths and are very cheap. You find that most toolmakers that work in the manufacture of injection moulds usually have a box full of offcuts !
Hi Steve. I've made a live centre for my ML4 from your video. Because the tailstock only takes a MT1 taper, I've used 6mm Silver Steel for the spindle. The soft arbor already had a 6mm threaded hole at the narrow end so it was ready to take a screw. I was able to drill through the centre of the arbor without a problem. I bought an SKF 6mm x 19mm bearing and bored the large end of the arbor to suit. I'm very happy with this project. Thank you for a great idea! I would like to know if I should harden and temper the pointy end of the spindle.
Hi Neil, Thanks for watching and for your encouraging feedback. It's up to you if you want to harden the tip. I didn't though and mine is still ok. I'm pleased you like my videos.... Regards Steve
Thanks for a great idea!! I need to turn down a 2" aluminum tube. Instead of using a live cone center, I'm thinking about attaching an existing 60mm mini 3 jaw chuck to your live center to keep things balanced.
The ball does not roll, but slides. This can damage the surroundings of the ball. Whether it is necessary to temper them, or is the load so small? In any case, the idea is good by its simplicity
Wow! Great idea. I will definitely find that useful, thx. So much going on in that video that is different from the 'common' setups we see. The QC tool post on your Myford; did you build that? Do you have a video on it? And your ER40 collet setup, very interesting too. The T-slots on your Myford cross slide; original or modified cross slide? Also liked the way you used the dial comparator for inside measurements. Good video Steve.
Thanks again for a great and simple design which I borrowed and put two bearings in the Soft Arbor to support a 8mm to M14x1 adapter I had around for the mini 60mm 3-jaw chuck. The shaft on the adapter is only about 1" so I figured two bearings to support the weight of the chuck should do it. Do you think I should have put three bearings in to take the extra load?
Hi Steve, I know you made this a few years ago and you've review a ready made live centre set since but this is still a very good affordable option. I have a couple of questions: would you still make it the same way or improve it and would more than 1 bearing be an improvement if they were stacked? I don't have a large ER chuck, so could the blank MT2 be drilled in the headstock arbour, or is that a no no because it might spin in the headstock and cause damage - an adjusted 4 jaw might be safer? Cheers, Chris
Hi Chris, I would still make it the same if I needed to. Mine is still working perfectly. You could drill the MT2 taper like that. Just make sure the spindle taper and the MT2 is clean from oil. I have drill them like that in the past. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan Thanks Steve for your reply. I always watch out for your videos and I've made a few projects including your top slide vice mounted drill which I still use a lot. Regards, Chris
Nice idea! Unfortunately, I cringed at the speed you used for the reamer, and even more so when you hammered in the bearing. That should have been pressed in with a ring that touched the outer race of the bearing, as you can damage the bearing by forcing it in with pressure (or hammer blows) on the inner race.
ITEMS NEEDED TO MAKE ONE: One ....MT2 SOFT Arbor... On Ebay ER11 COLLET CHUCK x 100MM LONG CUT DOWN TO 80MM LENGTH FROM Banggood -- goo.gl/7fvwZN One...608ZZ Bearing (8mmx22mmx7mm) Koyo or Similar quality. A Length of 3/8" BSW Thread Stud and one nut. A few lengths 8mm ground 316 stainless bar various lengths One.... 8mm Stainless Steel ball bearing.....Ebay EXCELLENT QUALITY REAMER SET FROM .... Banggood -- goo.gl/32x6c1
The tailstock on my lathe is only MT1 size. I don't think drilling through and adding a screwed plug to make a ball support through the thin taper is practical. I was wondering if I could drill halfway down the taper and drop a smaller ball down the hole. Would that work?
Hi Neil if you heat them up red hot and let them cool slowly naturally that removes the hardness. Or you can just try drilling them. It's best to use cobalt drills though.
olá!... fiz algumas formações na vida, mas aqui só estou aprender!... o relógio, que tem duas pernas que está a medir o caixa com precisão eu não conhecia esse método de medir com esse relógio, eu nunca vi isso !...como se chama essa ferramenta? e qual o diâmetro máximo que se consegue medir? onde posso comprar uma ferramenta dessa !..já aqui em Portugal nunca vi , e não conheço. se me poderem ajudar agradeço. e obrigado, pela partilha de ideias e soluções !.... obrigado amigo!....
Hi Jorge, The clock is called a 'Caliper Clock' or a 'Dial Caliper Gauge'. You can buy them in various diameter ranges. The one I am using here ranges from about 0.200" to about 1.100" Thousand of an inch. Another is about 1" to 2" Inch range and this has longer caliper blades on the end. There are several different ranges. When bought new they can be very expensive like this Mitutoyo one on ebay:- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mitutoyo-209-106-Dial-Caliper-Gauge-10-35Mm/112730742041?epid=500508067&hash=item1a3f469d19:g:hjAAAOSwiBJaTP2V I bought mine as used ones from Ebay. They are quite rare but come on every so often. If you keep looking you should be able to pick them up, but you have to do extensive searches on Ebay to find them. This is because many other tools with the same description, like verniers etc come up in the searches. The most common makers include Mitutoyo and MPJ Regards Steve
olá!.... peço muita desculpa, mas estive desligado do mundo desde no dia 2 de Março até hoje!...é que me vieram reparar a linha telefónica,houve aqui ventos forte e partiram-me a linha do telefone. deixei de ver o mundo a distancia. o muito obrigada, pela atenção, ajuda que me deu ao me esclarecer-me referente a ferramenta de medir, um grande abraço fraternal amigo!... e de vez em quando, venho visita-lo na janela , aberta para o mundo!.... obrigado por partilhar o seu saber!.....
Steve, I'm just curious, why do you have 2 small lathes? What can one do that the other can't? Isn't the lovely Myford enough? Wouldn't the space in your compact shed be better used with a different machine for another job?
Hi No both the machines do about everything I need to do. I had the Chinese Mini Lathe for about 5 years before my brother gave me the Myford. If he hadn't given it to me I probably would never have owned one and this is one of the reasons I keep them both.... That is to show people that one can buy a reasonably low cost lathe and still produce the same precision components as an expensive lathe can. I find having both the lathes perfect for my situation and there are times when each of the lathes have been best suited for whatever I'm turning. Plus leaving one set up for something while quickly going to the other to do another job is a great advantage. If I was younger I may have bought a larger shed and bought a milling machine plus kept both the lathes, but my situation is as it is. In other words,... I'm content with what I have and don't have the need for anything else.
All my collets are Chinese. They are excellent quality. I haven't had one problem with them and I have nearly all the ER ranges from ER11 to ER40. Some of which I bought about 4 years ago and have used extensively making precision components I can't see or find much difference in the Chinese made ones, to the to the really expensive ones I used in the aerospace industry on CNC machine tools. I buy all my lathe tools and equipment from China now, because of the high quality and reasonable prices. One would be a fool to spend 6 times more on a tool, that does exactly the same job, just because it has a well known, engraved or stuck-on, brand makers mark!
Maybe you use a different make of Chinese collet in comparison with the ones I saw in videos of reviews by different people. What I saw in these videos makes me shiver, it's so bad!
facebook.com/steve.jordan.3766952
I've been wanting to make something like this for a while, but hadn't decided on a design. Just this past weekend I had to use a tiny dead center on the end of a shaft I needed to thread because I didn't have a live center than would allow any of my threading tools to reach the end of the shaft. I once again resolved to...figure out what to make. And now here you are showing me not just what to make but how. Thanks, Steve!!
Hi Steve, I'm a new Subscriber and just recently got into machining. I don't know why it took so long as I have loved making things from scratch for as long as I can remember. I just acquired my first Delta Rockwell 1460 wood lathe a few weeks ago, That previous owner attempted to convert for milling soft metals. I just love it and have made further mods to make the experience more enjoyable and possible. Just wanted to thank you for your Tips, Tricks and Instructions for working with lathes. I've already taken in a lot from you. Thanks again and Keep on turning.
Made this on a Chinese lathe and it works well. I needed to go back and look again at the video - polishing the spindle turned out to be essential - there isn't much torque so the spindle has to turn smoothly. Good project.
Ah, if teachers were that interesting in school... Nice video!
Always getting so many good ideas from watching your videos. Definitely one of my favorite RUclips channels to watch
Genius, absolutely genius. The little ball bearing inside is over the top.
never disappointed, always enjoy videos with Mr.Jordan..... it is very inspiring to watch and we ,I get a lot of satisfaction watching, one of my favorite channels ,waiting for the next one ,thank you Steve......
I like it! Watching the video I was thinking that bearings no good, can't take any thrust! Then the ball bearing appeared. I'll be copying that.
Thanks Steve.
What a great idea Steve! my toolholders are full of notches that I have ground away to avoid clashing with the centre when turning small stuff, so I will be making one of these - Thanks for another inspiring idea, and a great video :)
Hi Ade...Thanks...I'm pleased you like it..... I'm looking forward to your next video.
Very good setup there. I would add a cross hole through it after the bearing for a pin so it could be stationary if needed. You could drill, ream, and use it for live center too.
this also would make a nice tap driver, for small taps and drills ( just rotate the collet with a spanner and the holder keeps the tap/etc. aligned to the hole).
just what i was thinking i need to make.
We got banggood ER16 metric collet set. Some are even marked with Imperial sizes and most out of concentricity, some massively!
Like the 3mm diameter is 2.8mm out. Great for turning eccentrics!
Well every set that I have bought so far have been excellent. I have ER16, ER20, ER32 and ER40 and they have all been spot on.
Very interesting tools. I'll try making them by myself soon. thanks for making this video !!
Another option for spindles is to use injector pins which are hardened and come in many sizes and lengths and are very cheap. You find that most toolmakers that work in the manufacture of injection moulds usually have a box full of offcuts !
Another great idea Steve thanks for putting it up
OUTSTANDING!! great idea, THANK YOU!!
You are a good teacher Sir...respect for u
Excellent idea Steve... might be something else I need to add to my ''list''!
Hi Chris....I'm looking forward to seeing your offset tailstock centre.
Thank you for sharing. I love your way of teaching. We are using the same watch with same strap also.
Hi Murat....They are very good watches....I like the way they adjust the time to the atomic clock!
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Great idea. Very nice way to go about it. Thanks for the video
Hi Steve. I've made a live centre for my ML4 from your video. Because the tailstock only takes a MT1 taper, I've used 6mm Silver Steel for the spindle. The soft arbor already had a 6mm threaded hole at the narrow end so it was ready to take a screw. I was able to drill through the centre of the arbor without a problem. I bought an SKF 6mm x 19mm bearing and bored the large end of the arbor to suit. I'm very happy with this project. Thank you for a great idea!
I would like to know if I should harden and temper the pointy end of the spindle.
Hi Neil, Thanks for watching and for your encouraging feedback. It's up to you if you want to harden the tip. I didn't though and mine is still ok. I'm pleased you like my videos.... Regards Steve
Love these videos Steve, thanks for the great ideas
Good stuff Mr. Jordan. Thanks!
Brilliant video Steve. Thanx
A good video Steve.
Thanks for a great idea!! I need to turn down a 2" aluminum tube. Instead of using a live cone center, I'm thinking about attaching an existing 60mm mini 3 jaw chuck to your live center to keep things balanced.
What a good idea. Thank you.
The ball does not roll, but slides.
This can damage the surroundings of the ball.
Whether it is necessary to temper them,
or is the load so small?
In any case, the idea is good by its simplicity
Excellent ! (From Viet Nam)
Very nice bit o work, maybe too high a spindle speed with the Reamer?
Wow! Great idea. I will definitely find that useful, thx.
So much going on in that video that is different from the 'common' setups we see. The QC tool post on your Myford; did you build that? Do you have a video on it? And your ER40 collet setup, very interesting too. The T-slots on your Myford cross slide; original or modified cross slide? Also liked the way you used the dial comparator for inside measurements. Good video Steve.
Good work, very interesting video.
Nice simple useful
you are the best . hats up !!
Steve is there enough room for two bearings
Good video !.
Hi Steve any chance of an website-link for the arbors ?? can't find them anywhere Kind regards
Thanks again for a great and simple design which I borrowed and put two bearings in the Soft Arbor to support a 8mm to M14x1 adapter I had around for the mini 60mm 3-jaw chuck. The shaft on the adapter is only about 1" so I figured two bearings to support the weight of the chuck should do it. Do you think I should have put three bearings in to take the extra load?
Hi Wilson, No I rekon that will be fine. See how it goes. You could always upgrade it, if you need to at a later date
Hi Steve,
are you familiar with the channel of TimNummy. Does a lot with the minilathe.
sir can make faceting machine maybe a simple one
Hi Steve,
I know you made this a few years ago and you've review a ready made live centre set since but this is still a very good affordable option. I have a couple of questions: would you still make it the same way or improve it and would more than 1 bearing be an improvement if they were stacked? I don't have a large ER chuck, so could the blank MT2 be drilled in the headstock arbour, or is that a no no because it might spin in the headstock and cause damage - an adjusted 4 jaw might be safer?
Cheers,
Chris
Hi Chris, I would still make it the same if I needed to. Mine is still working perfectly. You could drill the MT2 taper like that. Just make sure the spindle taper and the MT2 is clean from oil. I have drill them like that in the past. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan Thanks Steve for your reply. I always watch out for your videos and I've made a few projects including your top slide vice mounted drill which I still use a lot.
Regards,
Chris
Nice idea! Unfortunately, I cringed at the speed you used for the reamer, and even more so when you hammered in the bearing. That should have been pressed in with a ring that touched the outer race of the bearing, as you can damage the bearing by forcing it in with pressure (or hammer blows) on the inner race.
I wouldn't worry about it....it turned out to be excellent. Regards Steve
ITEMS NEEDED TO MAKE ONE:
One ....MT2 SOFT Arbor... On Ebay
ER11 COLLET CHUCK x 100MM LONG CUT DOWN TO 80MM LENGTH FROM Banggood -- goo.gl/7fvwZN
One...608ZZ Bearing (8mmx22mmx7mm) Koyo or Similar quality.
A Length of 3/8" BSW Thread Stud and one nut.
A few lengths 8mm ground 316 stainless bar various lengths
One.... 8mm Stainless Steel ball bearing.....Ebay
EXCELLENT QUALITY REAMER SET FROM .... Banggood -- goo.gl/32x6c1
В таком случае почему не игольчатый подшипник в передней части
Steve do you have a link to the reamers you got from Bangood ? thanks
Hi Simon yes I have put the link above and in the video description details. Regards Steve
The tailstock on my lathe is only MT1 size. I don't think drilling through and adding a screwed plug to make a ball support through the thin taper is practical. I was wondering if I could drill halfway down the taper and drop a smaller ball down the hole. Would that work?
Hi Neil. It will most probably work. I don't see why not. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan the taper of the blanks I'm looking at are hardened and ground. Would the hardening go right through or just the skin of the taper?
Hi Neil if you heat them up red hot and let them cool slowly naturally that removes the hardness. Or you can just try drilling them. It's best to use cobalt drills though.
@@SteveJordan many thanks 👍
olá!... fiz algumas formações na vida, mas aqui só estou aprender!... o relógio, que tem duas pernas que está a medir o caixa com precisão eu não conhecia esse método de medir com esse relógio, eu nunca vi isso !...como se chama essa ferramenta? e qual o diâmetro máximo que se consegue medir? onde posso comprar uma ferramenta dessa !..já aqui em Portugal nunca vi , e não conheço. se me poderem ajudar agradeço. e obrigado, pela partilha de ideias e soluções !.... obrigado amigo!....
Hi Jorge, The clock is called a 'Caliper Clock' or a 'Dial Caliper Gauge'. You can buy them in various diameter ranges. The one I am using here ranges from about 0.200" to about 1.100" Thousand of an inch. Another is about 1" to 2" Inch range and this has longer caliper blades on the end. There are several different ranges. When bought new they can be very expensive like this Mitutoyo one on ebay:-
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mitutoyo-209-106-Dial-Caliper-Gauge-10-35Mm/112730742041?epid=500508067&hash=item1a3f469d19:g:hjAAAOSwiBJaTP2V
I bought mine as used ones from Ebay. They are quite rare but come on every so often. If you keep looking you should be able to pick them up, but you have to do extensive searches on Ebay to find them. This is because many other tools with the same description, like verniers etc come up in the searches. The most common makers include Mitutoyo and MPJ
Regards Steve
olá!.... peço muita desculpa, mas estive desligado do mundo desde no dia 2 de Março até hoje!...é que me vieram reparar a linha telefónica,houve aqui ventos forte e partiram-me a linha do telefone. deixei de ver o mundo a distancia.
o muito obrigada, pela atenção, ajuda que me deu ao me esclarecer-me referente a ferramenta de medir, um grande abraço fraternal amigo!... e de vez em quando, venho visita-lo na janela , aberta para o mundo!.... obrigado por partilhar o seu saber!.....
Steve, I'm just curious, why do you have 2 small lathes? What can one do that the other can't? Isn't the lovely Myford enough? Wouldn't the space in your compact shed be better used with a different machine for another job?
Hi No both the machines do about everything I need to do. I had the Chinese Mini Lathe for about 5 years before my brother gave me the Myford. If he hadn't given it to me I probably would never have owned one and this is one of the reasons I keep them both.... That is to show people that one can buy a reasonably low cost lathe and still produce the same precision components as an expensive lathe can.
I find having both the lathes perfect for my situation and there are times when each of the lathes have been best suited for whatever I'm turning. Plus leaving one set up for something while quickly going to the other to do another job is a great advantage.
If I was younger I may have bought a larger shed and bought a milling machine plus kept both the lathes, but my situation is as it is. In other words,... I'm content with what I have and don't have the need for anything else.
That's fair enough Steve, thanks for replying. Keep up the good work!
It may be two balls ( )( ) ?
Whoohoo! High speed reaming and didn't spot any lubricant.
As long as it's not Chinese rubbish collets! Good idea though.
All my collets are Chinese. They are excellent quality. I haven't had one problem with them and I have nearly all the ER ranges from ER11 to ER40. Some of which I bought about 4 years ago and have used extensively making precision components
I can't see or find much difference in the Chinese made ones, to the to the really expensive ones I used in the aerospace industry on CNC machine tools.
I buy all my lathe tools and equipment from China now, because of the high quality and reasonable prices.
One would be a fool to spend 6 times more on a tool, that does exactly the same job, just because it has a well known, engraved or stuck-on, brand makers mark!
Maybe you use a different make of Chinese collet in comparison with the ones I saw in videos of reviews by different people. What I saw in these videos makes me shiver, it's so bad!