How to glass bed a rifle, Part I ~ Epoxy bedding and free floating described
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Learn exactly what "glass bedding" and free floating means, what the process seeks to do, and how it can help you to realize the full potential of your gun's accuracy. This is Part I of two instructional videos that will bring you through the actual process of bedding a brand new Tikka T3 Hunter with walnut stock, using Devcon Industrial Plastic Steel epoxy. Be sure to watch both videos!
Pure gold! The information is priceless. I just love how we not only get decades of hard fought researched details on how to get an amazing shooting gun, but it is presented with logical explanations of why! You sir are a national treasure, and many of us are listening to every word. I don't know too much about you but if you haven't written a book, then you should do so, so every detail of your expertise will not be lost when your gone. Thank You for another outstanding video!
I second your comment and could not agree more than I do. There is so much information in this instructional that you dont hear elsewhere and we are all very privileged to receive it!
Kia Ora from NZ. I work in a Hunting store and sell firearms. I want to thank you for your time, experience, expertise and attention to detail. I am especially thankful to find a teacher who just lays out the facts without brand bias or any other irrelevant personal bias. I'm quickly learning that most of the info I have been givin was either just wrong, old or based on personal bias.
Thank you again Sir.
The Kiwi shoe polish was like a sign I was in the right place. ;)
Hats off and thank you to my favorite Master-Gunsmith. I've done this before on an 1903A1 Springfield using Surf-boarder's two-part resin , but I was 14-years-old (with an adult supervising). I'm 75 now, so I decided to enroll in the class before I tackled bedding my Ruger M77 MK II.
I watched Part I twice, and Part II at least 4 times. Even though I can run a Bridgeport (and have built a lot of model airplanes), I learned so much! I am grateful for the years of experience and advice imparted in these videos. I am very happy with the results I achieved after studying these videos.
Pay attention, this gent knows his stuff.
(1) Keep your bench clear and clean with only the tools and parts needed.
(2) Do as he says: Mentally re-assemble your rifle BEFORE you begin. You will thank him.
(3) Do as he says, and tape the stock to protect it even though you may think the bedding compound won't go where you didn't intend or migrate that far . . .Yes it will!
(4) Using Artist's Palette knives is a great tip. They make the job so much easier and cleaner.
Watch Part II over and over until you have everything memorized and you will be a happy hunter.
If I was in High School I would Sign up for every class this Man would teach. He is amazing. Simple Yet precise information and techniques. I like the way he finds simple home items to use as tools that would cost you Hundreds of $$$$$$
Mr GunBlue 490,
i wanted to contact you and say thank you for the videos. I followed your instructions to the letter on bedding my Winchester M70 chambered in 270 Win as well as the videos on reloading.
The results are spectacular. I now consistently shoot 1/8 and 3/16 MOA. My reloading components are not match grade but simply soft point Hornady hunting bullets and Winchester brass. I do not sort brass or bullets and I reload on a Lee press using Lee dies. The guys in my reloading group are pretty impressed as am I.
I couldn’t be happier. Im now moving on to my 7x57, 257 Roberts, and 375 H&H (all Win M70) and hope to get similar results.
Thank you again and may God bless you for many years.
Those a fantastic results! Thank you for sharing your success!
i wanted to clarify my statement saying i consistently got 1/8 and 3/16 MOA. While achieving those group sizes did occur, I dont want to be misleading and say my gun is an 1/8 MOA gun. Far from it. After gathering more data, I am shooting more sub MOA groups than before bedding and Im very pleased with the gun but i didnt want to be misleading. thanks again mr gun blue.
There is more than one topic in this video. This guy would be a great instructor for a class on improving the accuracy of your rifle. I was just looking for a video on glass bedding and I know, there are plenty of those in shorter form. Very informative. Thanks!
This dudes videos are hands-down the most comprehensive, informative, and professional gunsmithing lessons I have found. I feel like I just attended a stockmakers masterclass. What a public service he is providing by publishing these lessons for free. Thank you my dude!
At 13.32 I noticed a good amount of wood left around cut outs. Well done Tikka.
This dude reminds me alot of my grandfather. And, my Svage mkllf that i bought a boyds stock for shoots lights out thanks to this guy.
Here, in his videos, is the most thoughtful, thorough presenter of information you'll ever witness with regard to all things firearms. A music instrument repairman by profession, I may, now, be so inclined to bed my rifles using these techniques. My sincere thanks, sir.
It may be a good sideline for you if the instrumental work takes a lull.
I use regular JB WELD. I mix and stir for at least 5 minutes before adding to the area to be made permanent. I have all my prep work finished prior to mixing. I fill the recoil lug depression/cavity and the rear mounting screw area. I use WD 40 as a release agent, and shoe polish on the screw threads. I apply the JB WELD to the stock, assemble the WD 40 treated action and tighten the shoe polish mounting screws to just over hand tight (not torqued) and let sit for 24 + hours (in the gun vise) my finished results resemble the commercial bedding displayed at 24:05
this channel isn't sexy, flashy or trendy.But here, you can actually LEARN something (I know I did)....very interesting sir, thank you.
Your an absolute legend mate. Such a quality in your instruction that just barely exists today.
Wisdom is Knowledge, tempered with Experience. What we are seeing here is Wisdom - pure and simple. many Thanks from a UK NRA member.
love him ... love the apron, love the ''if you were the kid who got frustrated building a model aeroplane ... give it to a professional" lol and all the rest of it. He is totally authentic. Thet best instructional vid on glass bedding that I've seen
I use my socket set as you use the bbl section for opening the bbl channel. The nice feature is the many different size sockets as the channel opens I simply pick the next size cylinder and keep cutting.
I realy appreciate this video on bedding. I like how you take time to explain each item and
why you would or would not do a certain thing. I liked how you talked about the free floating
the front of the barrel very helpful. will be watching every video you make.
Thanks from Emig Racing
bedding and floating prevents the barrel from pressing on points in the barrel channel and warping the barrel or interfering with the harmonics in the barrel. it also allows the barrel return to the same starting point. (watch slow motion shots and pay attention to the barrel )
Tom n
Yes, of course! I think I've made that very clear in a number of my videos; particularly the two entitled Accuracy Rifles. These facts have been known and discussed for over 100 years, long before high speed videos. Free floated barrels and bedded actions have been around for over 70 years.
I appreciate this channel. Gunblue 490 is very professional and extremely knowledgeable on a lot of topics. I did my first glass bed job on a K98 Mauser after watching the video on gunblue490. It came out exceptionally well for a first timer. Thank you for your channel.
Thank you so much for taking the time out of your life to share your expertise on this subject. I did my first two glass bedding project's on an old Ruger M77 Hawkeye 30-06 and a New Mossberg Patriot in 243. The Hawkeye was throwing some odd groups so I thought it was the 15 year old wood stock which had warped from hunting so many years with it, so I purchased a boyds stock and noticed my rifle was throwing erratic flyers. After watching your video several times and listening to your instruction I now have two one inch to Sub MOA guns. The Mossberg was so inaccurate (3 to 12 inch groups depending on the ammunition) I sent it back to the factory to be rebarreled. When it was returned to me, it was a 2 - 4 inch gun at 100 yards at best. I felt I had nothing to loose by glass bedding and now its a Sub MOA gun! I'll admit I usually watch your video to help me fall asleep at night, but your attention to detail and time you give has made an impact on my happiness. Thank You!
Thanks for that. I'm happy to hear from those who have improved the accuracy of their rifles with this series. God bless.
I am glad you mentioned Mossberg. I just bought a new patriot 270 and am preparing to do this if needed.
My grandson is into shooting so I thought it might be a great project with him.
I was a little weary about taking on this job for a 1980 Ruger M77 .300 Win Mag but found your videos on this subject to be the best. I'm fortunate that you included a notation regarding the M77's unique front angled lug screw and the need to add at least 1-1/2" of additional bedding support to the stock at the bottom of the barrel. I was careful to remove the contact area in the middle of the receiver so I could achieve the two contact points, as you instructed before and I added the epoxy channels for the front and rear areas. I used JB Weld Original for my compound, as I'm very familiar with it and the cost can't be beat. One deviation I used was to do an initial bed of the front lug screw to the stock to ensure a tight fit and the second bedding for the action at the front and rear contact areas. After 24 hours of cure the action easily popped out of the epoxy bedding using the Kiwi neutral shoe polish and plumbers putty instructions and I was able to carefully channel the stock's barrel channel to get a 1/8" gap using a Dremel with a drum sander attachment. Hopefully this year I will be able to verify the accuracy improvement which was approximately 1.5" at 100 yards with a three shot group before the bedding job. Please keep up the excellent videos and I thank you for passing on your expertise to the next generation of gunsmiths and shooters.
I say thank you again. Your knowledge runs deep. I fear that this type of wisdom is becoming, or will become, harder to find as time goes on. Thank you for sharing this. God Bless.
Very nice to see your disclaimer towards the end. Having to rework someones mess is a true pain.
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Ty for all your videos. You have educated me in alot of the topics especially reloading. Ty for taking the time to slowly explain everything in detail. It makes it understandable to the novice. I hope to see more videos on rifles and shooting topics. Ty again. To your health..cheers!!
Interesting and full of knowledge, To my strengths I have always known simple free float actually throws the accuracy with out proper bedding. However have struggled with clients for the explanation. You Sir NAILED IT. The two processes combined the free float AND glass bedding only add to the already Accurate rifle, Tightens up the Group, does not take an inaccurate rifle and make it accurate. Many of the "Smiths" in my area do not Glass bed, free float the time and work involved not worth it to them.
You sir are an excellent teacher. Thank you for taking your time to provide this information for all of us in both videos on the subject.
Thank you very much for this video sir. I have to write a college paper on this subject, and out of all of the videos that I've watched on this subject your video makes bedding really easy to understand.
I love this guy. I have been a gunsmith for a while and would have loved to have learned from someone like this.
Just now getting into gunsmith work and Restoring people’s firearms & OG gunsmiths like yourself help me perform my tasks👍🏽Thanks
Excellent video thank you. Tikka's don't require barrel break-in as they're cold hammer forged
I really appreciate the level of detail you go into on this. Really helpful
Some thin barrels, such as the Weatherby Mark5, require pressure points in the forend to stabilize the barrel harmonics ( Vibration). Free floating the barrel the rifle shot like a shot gun.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos. Your knowledge and expertise is genius, and your ability to convey that knowledge is exceptional. I can't tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to pass this on to others... God bless you!
You can increase your working time by putting the epoxy and hardener in the refrigerator for an hour or so before you need it. This will slow down the chemical reaction. By the same token you can speed up the process with heat.
mike underbrink
Thank you. Properly prepared, with all at hand, normal curing time permits more than sufficient latitude of work time. But, it's good information.
I agree, be prepared! I learned a lot of lessons, the hard way, working with epoxy when I built my boat... That Devcon product you use probably wouldn't need to be slowed down, with a pot life of 45 min. With some of the other products on the market that have a 15-20 min pot life a first timer might need to extent that as much as possible. Great video, thank you for taking the time to do this.
In the higher calibers, they say the recoil lug flexes and bends over time in the Tikkas. Some change it out with a steel version in stead of the factory aluminum. I believe the newest Tikka t3x model updated this with a steel lug. Tikka makes a nice rifle. I shot one in a 308 a buddy of mine has. I think due to it being lighter and hard rubber butt pad, its felt recoil seemed more than my 06
monsterman27
It won't bend when properly bedded and supported, as my next video will show. It will launch in several hours.
Really enjoy listening to this man. He is a wealth of knowledge and presents in a very agreeable and interesting manner.
I’d love to watch you do a new tikka t3x with a poly stock.
Oh well, there goes my rifle... I wish I would've ran into your video months ago. Now I understand why my groupings have opened up...a lot!
In this video, I think you touch all the bases, leading up to this critical operation of glassing and floating. I am also a big fan of doing pillar bedding which is not mentioned and I would love your perspective on pillar bedding. Perhaps I have missed the cons of pillar bedding and I keep an open mind on this kind of thing. God bless you too!
Pillar bedding is the simple process by which rigid supportive posts are sandwiched between the action and floorplate/trigger guard assembly to prevent compression. The pillars may be metal, plastic, or most assuredly, the most precise fitting of all, the bedding compound.
To answer your question, high grade, properly kiln dried American walnut has no compression issues, but can certainly benefit from pillar bedding in humid environs. As I believe I mentioned in the video, I have performed pillar bedding a number of times, and found no particular advantage given my uses, but perhaps would be beneficial in more difficult climates.
You can purchase aluminum pillars from Brownell's, or simply, use bedding compound. With good wood boring bits, incrementally open the action screw holes to up to 1/2".
BE CAREFUL NOT TO EXCEED THE SIZE OF YOUR FLOORPLATE OR TANG INLETTING, DRILL STRAIGHT USING A GOOD DRILL GUIDE, AND DO NOT SPLIT THE WOOD WITH TOO BIG A DRILL!
Allow bedding material to flow around the RELEASE AGENT COATED screws. After stock removal, relieve the REAR screw again to provide original screw clearance all around to prevent action binding. The FRONT screw should remain snug to the pillar, such that it will unscrew from it. This is the process used by FN with Model 70 Winchesters, which is as fine as any accuracy gets from a commercial rifle barrel.
Thank you sir for taking the time and effort in generously covering this subject. I guess I missed your dialogue about pillar bedding. I consider myself in a constant state of learning and I learn quite a lot from your instructionals. Thank you!
Wanted to post a picture here to show you the progress on my bedding work..Thought you might get a kick out of seeing how my watching and re-watching your 2 bedding vids and my other research has worked out so far in the real world of me, first timer for glass bedding a rifle...Seems fine so far...
I had a Ithaca LSA 55 which is a Tikka form the '70s it was a 243 and had a free floating barrel it had a blonde stock too.
Is JB WELD sufficient for the epoxy material? It has a compressive strength of almost 4,000 psi. I've seen glass bedding videos using this
The 24hr jb I’ve seen used a lot. Just don’t use the jb kwiki weld 5 minute stuff
I really like the lessons I am able to learn hear. I also like your detail oriented way to explain things. Many thanks.
Thank you for this video it was very helpful. I am going to give it a try. it will be my first but probably not my last.
Greetings from New Orleans! Love the Central Market apron! Best Muff around. You sure don't sound local though ;-) Great, informative video. Thanks for the education.
"its always nice to know what the dish is supposed to look like done."
You know exactly why I'm here.
I bedded 3 or 4 rifles in my few years of rifle service and I forget how I didnt get any epoxy into the screw holes in the action. I think i might have plugged the holes with plastacine and tightened the action down with a rubber band. Im wanting to bed a norinco jw 105 556 rifle because its free floated already but the hole for the recoil lug is abit wide and the barrel can move side to side abit. I need to tighten up this stock to action fit. Was thinkin of only adding a 2 inch epoxy spot in front of the receiver were the barrel goes into the action. Ill need to take off the trigger and plug some holes so it can have a full bed instead of the barrel channel just to keep the barrel straight and have a pad to sit on tofree float. The recoil lug has the screw hole in the bottom so it might be hard to do it. And with no screws it will be hard to align it up and keep straight with the screw holes. I think i might have a little challenge.
Just finnished my ruger 77 i bedded the sam as u said on the barrel
Welcome Back GunBlue490 !!
And a quandary: My Win. Mod. 70, 1973, has three action screws, one just to the rear of the recoil lug, one just ahead of the magazine box and one at the tang..All three areas of the action at the screws seem to make contact on solid wood..thinking.....
On that Winchester Model 70 Featherweight, the white barcode label inside the forearm looks identical to the labels inside my aftermarket Boyd's stocks. That makes me wonder if Boyd's is actually making the stocks for Winchester.
Fantastically useful and informative. I learned so much from this video and certain that part 2 will really help even more. Thank you from Australia. Liked and subscribed of course!!!
EXACTLY! Very well explained......
Thank You for sharing your knowledge, after watching this video, I will bed my Sears mod 53 30-06 (Winchester 70). Thanks
Thank You again, Sir. On my way to video Two.
Wondering how to bed the recoil lug...About to do my 1973 Win. Mod. 70...To tightly bed all sides of the lug, or just make sure the rear of the lug is tight...to relieve the entire rear portion of the lug recess and rely on the screw to give the proper front to rear action alignment or leave a portion of the existing lug recess untouched for the front-rear action alignment and glass the majority...
You may certainly bed all sides, and it will shoot great, but you'll regret it. Such tightness will prevent proper seating of the action with any trace of oil or particles, and will make removal exceedingly and unnecessarily difficult for routine maintenance, and may even split the stock. The rear of the lug is the only supportive part. The lug requires support, but must also have clearance to provide for rotation of the action out. In fact, if it's too tight, suction will prevent removal, and air-tightness will prevent seating. Thus, I recommend placing two layers of masking tape on the underside, sides, and front of the lug, trimmed with an X-acto knife, coated by release agent. Remove the tape after you're done.
Have you looked into adding pillar bedding to tikkas.
Sir, I was wanting your opinion. I have my grandfathers 721 and I am attempting to fit and inlet and bed a boyds stock for it. The 721 has a bump in the barrel where the rear california style rear sight is inlet into. I am wondering how to handle the bedding and free floating process as the barrel is not one continuous taper. Your advice would be much appreciated.
Gun blue, you may already know this, but you could teach Elmer Keith a few things. Keep up this fantastic work Captain. God Bless.
Awesome video. A truly talented, genius gun smith.
Well I'm about to do my first job on a Ruger #1. Thank you for info!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge sir.. Great video. Getting a Boyd's Stock in the mail for a Ruger American Predator 6.5 Creedmoor. I will be referring back to this video for installation. Thank you again.
Great video. Good, thorough info, well presented, good quality production.
Great video and step by step process of how to do this.
Perfect bed
Wondering about the load data for H322? Hodgdon 2020 manual and Nosler web site for 50 gr bullet list 22.2 grains as max. Your target shows 23.2 grain load being used. Thanks for all your videos.
That was the maximum that they achieved in their test guns. It was not the maximum in my Tikka. I was using Sierra Blitz King bullets, which have very thin jackets with soft cores, so they develop lower pressures. Nosler uses bullets with solid bases that have higher resistance, and Hodgdon uses data based on bullets that they don't state. That's why all loads must be worked up neliw at least 5% below maximum. I measure my cases as I work up loads
I am curious to know if my Browning BLR (not model 81)can be floated and bedded? It's a pretty good shooter as is but I still would consider accuracy enhancements if available.
Hello Sir,
I hope you are well. Thank you for another gift of knowledge.
Be safe and God bless
Rick Mansberger
PS. Hi Benny
Thank you for a great video. Devcon 10110 is very expensive for me to get here. I would appreciate hearing what would be another product that you would recommend and would the application be any different? Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Richard.
Do you have any more tips on glass bedding a Ruger M77 tang safety. The Barcelona's been free floated clear to the action. Which is not correct for an M77.
I'm in the process of starting gunsmith school and I must say that I have learned a lot by watching your videos. I wanted to ask you if there is any advice that you could give me about starting out as a gunsmith?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated I'm especially interested in building 1911 pistols and precision rifles.
I have a question about the Featherweight stock forend. Is the hollowed out section to reduce weight?
This is just the subject I've been waiting for from you. I have a Sako 85 laminate in 243 that I want to bed myself.
Thank you for your very helpful video, which was a great help. I have actually got the task of glass bedding a wooden stocked CZ550 in .243 Win. caliber. This has you no doubt know has the front action screw screwed into the forward recoil lug. It also has steel ferrules between the trigger guard/floorplate and the action, in both action screw positions. I have, on advice, have already wood glued both ferrules into the stock. I have also been advised to use aluminium Devcon putty on the wood stock rather than the steel type you advice. I have also been told to use the putty more extensively than you advice, although I much prefer your method.
I would be very pleased if you would comment on the above project if you have the spare time.
Best Regards,
CS.
Clive Sargeantson
The Devcon I used is the one I recommend, but the aluminum version would work the same. I explained why it is not necessarily good to use full length bedding, as it may add stress with a rocker issue in the middle. Furniture sits steady on a warped floor because it sits on elevated feet or legs. You are dealing with the many changing variables of wood grain and expanding and contracting steel, which must not be confined.
I'm going to try this but use jb weld I think
Will JB Weld 24 hour cure work as well as the Devcon you are using? For me it is more readily available and cheaper. Please give me the pros and cons of using JB Weld. Thank you! Roy
Struggling a bit with a 2013 Featherweight in 7X57. Best groups are handloads, with 145 gr Grand Slams. Have tried 154 gr SST, 162 gr SST, PPU Factory 139gr, Federal Power Shok with 140 gr. all with little success ranging 2MOA to 3MOA. My handloads got me one group (3 rounds) at .887 and one today at 1.04 in. Even tried a load with Hornady 120 Hollow points to no avail--2.5 - 3 in groups). Do you think my bedding is sufficient? I am reluctant to install pillars, or do you think they'd do any good. Trigger is at 3 pounds, barrel is free floated to about 4 dollar bills, stock torqued to 35 inch pounds. Using Caldwell front bag and rabbit ear rear...alternating with a tack driver bag. My .25-06 Stevens 200 (only aluminum pillars in a plastic stock, changed barrel to 24 inch Shaw, and a Timney Trigger) is just embarrassing this 7X57 Featherweight.,,as beautiful as it is. Two different scopes tried. Leupold bases with rear windage adjustment. Vortex 2.5-10X Viper HS. Duplex. Smallest group was with Vortex 4-16 X44 I used to see if there may be a scope issue and get a better sight picture. Anyway, do you think the bedding should be good enough without pillars? MY Leupold 4-12 is staying on the 25-06.
my weatherby vanguard has a bedded barrel arrangement and it shoots very well. Its sitting in a bell and carlson stock with a full length aluminum bedding block built into it. Would it be worth free floating the barrel or should i just leave it alone?.
There doesn't appear to be a question area so I'll ask it here. If the barrel is free-floated ie., not in contact with the stock, what purpose does glass-bedding of the stock serve? Thanks for any feedback. Otherwise, nice video.
I have same question, I think the bedding just makes buffer space between stock and barrel. The bedding material solidifies eventually to guarantee that free space.
Love this guy's videos. Best!!
On a two piece stock such as a BLR would you bed both sections or just the forend?
I subbed after the 10 seconds. I like your approach.
Hi there from New Zealand, I have really enjoyed your informative videos . I am considering buying a Tikka T3 7mm08 but was wondering from a reloading point of view if the magazine length was long enough to be able to seat bullets with minimum jump to the lands for accuracy improvement if required ? Thanks again for the great videos keep them coming they are awesome.
memay8wayne
Sako uses only one receiver length in the Tikka rifle, which uses a single magazine overall length that has three internal structures that accommodate 223, 308, and 30-06 length cartridges. The issue of bullet seating depth is confined to those three lengths, but does not dictate the internal chamber length. In my extensive experience with Sako rifles over nearly 50 years, which includes this Tikka, I have found Sako to be very generous with regard to chamber overall length, and have never seen a Sako that is not intelligently engineered to the
highest potential for ballistic excellence. In other words, they don't underthink anything. A Tikka is a Sako.
GunBlue490 Thanks I did think that would be the case but great to hear it confirmed by an obviously knowledgeable guy . Tikka the cheap man's Sako, alot of rifle for a great price . If your ever in NZ I'll buy you dinner .
Have you experimented with the amount of bedding left under the barrel? I leave about one inch, but that is only because I've seen it on videos.
Another question I have is the effect of bedding as multiple shots are taken, the metals expand and the subsequent stress changes. I bedded and Ruger 77/17wsm recently and the shots appear to drift vertically as the rifle heats up. If I let it cool down sufficiently, the zero seems to go back to the original point.
Rudy Sandoval
One inch barrel support has given me good results, though some rifles with heavier barrels may benefit from more. The Ruger 77 rimfires can be tricky, because they have non-threaded barrels that can sag due to weight, and shift impact upwards as the receiver to barrel union swells and tightens. With my 77/22 target model, after floating the heavy barrel, I found it necessary to epoxy the barrel to the receiver, but I used wax as release agent first, in order to allow removal if needed. That completely cured the problem, and the rifle has shot well now for 20 years. I supported the barrel the first inch.
I have a question when pillow bedding how much clearance do you need between the action screws and the ID of the pillows front and rear thanks
The rear tang screw should be 1/16" inch larger than the screw to provide 1/32" clearance. After some testing, I've adopted zero clearance for the front screw, as Winchester does with the Model 70. While I allow epoxy to fill the screw hole void around the screws, extended diameter pillars are not required for sound quality walnut, maple, beech, or birch stocks in good condition, as the wood does not compress.
Probably a stupid question but i have just recently bought an Anschutz 222 it was made in 1988 has the match 54 action winged safety roll over cheek piece schnabel for end etc beautiful rifle, in the article written that depicts this rifle it said it has a free floating barrel. Basically on the right hand side at the end of the stock at the front its touching slightly once i get a piece of paper past the slight touching it becomes fully free floated all the way to the action. My question is if the article said the rifle was supposed to be free floating than why is it touching? was this on purpose or has the wood moved over the years?. Have previous owners taken the rifle apart and not tightened it correctly down which may have caused this? And finally will it affect the accuracy or should i not worry at all.
ShoulderRollJason
It certainly was free floated, but that does not guarantee that it will remain that way. Wood is natural and subject to warping. The stock may be incorrectly attached. Start with basics. Remove the stock and clean the metal, wipe down with a lightly oiled cloth, and then replace it, maintaining the same gap if possible. If it has warped, you can sand the offending side gradually to equalize it. Some factory free floating was very conservative, with only enough room for a slip of paper. It should be about 3/32 underside, and 1/16 on the sides.
Great video I am impress with your knowledge Sir...
In many videos the guys put electrical tape on the front recoil lug. Doesn’t that defeat the purpose of bedding by leaving a gap when you remove the tape? Can’t I just make sure the lug has a sufficient amount of release agent on it so it breaks free from the stock? I’ve watched a bunch of bedding videos and haven’t gotten a clear explanation on this so I would really appreciate some clarification about this thanks.
A single layer of tape may be placed on the FRONT of the recoil lug during the epoxying and removed afterwards, in order to ease removal from the stock. It will not cause any harm to the bedding procedure. I prefer not to.
@@GunBlue490Thanks.
Thank you for a great video. Devcon 10110 is very expensive for me to get where I live. I would appreciate hearing what would be the next best product that you would recommend and would the application be any different? Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Richard.
Richard Porcher
I have often used Devcon epoxy Gel that is available in hardware stores, and is quite inexpensive. The standard 2 ton epoxy will work, but is runny and requires mixing with a stiffener, such as very finely ground fiberglass. Do not use 5 minute epoxy! You can also purchase Brownells Accra-Glass Gel, which is fully formulated for guns, and includes both brown and black dies to color the epoxy as desired. Use the dies very, very, very sparingly. Brownells provides extremely good directions, however, I still prefer wax rather than their release agent, as wax removes easier.
Your advice is very much appreciated. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. God bless.
On a post-64 Winchester 30-06, would you bed "in-front" of action, under the barrel ant amount? Thanks
IIRC, you said in another video that your wife has a Remington Model 582 .22LR. I bought mine in 1972, scoped with a Weaver V22-A. It shoots great groups but I have to sight it back in every outing. As you probably know, the barrel is mated to the stock with a single block dovetailed into the barrel. Would it make any sense at all to have it glass-bedded, or is the scope a more likely culprit?
On a Rem 700 is there any need to remove material under the barrel lug? These lugs are attached. Thank you
No. There is clearance under the lug. I recommend two layers of tape applied to the underside and front if the lug to facilitate removal, and discard the tape afterwards.
@@GunBlue490 Thank you for the reply and the videos.
Gday Mate , watch your videos a lot . Keep up the good work .
I have a SMLE 303 which was sportered when I got it . I dont like the inaccuracy of its thin whippy barrel and want your thoughts on bedding the whole barrel with an upward pressure builtin . The up pressure was design feature at production but is gone in this one .
Look forward to seeing your thoughts .
If you watch my recent bench rest video with my Model 70 in 257 Roberts, you'll see that thin whippy barrels can certainly shoot excellently. In my long experience, they can shoot beside heavy barrels. Their disadvantage is having less mass to keep steady during lock time, and SMLEs have rather long lock times that can jar off target after the trigger is pulled. Free floated barrels, regardless of barrel weight, MUST have solid, preferably epoxy bedded actions, or the entire barreled action will swing in the stock with every shot. That's why upward barrel pressure is used in many rifles; it's easier and cheaper to stabilize a barreled action that way than to fuss over bedding. Alternatively, you can do the same by shimming the barrel with increasing layers of business cards until you arrive at an accurate condition, then simply epoxy them into place, or make a facsimile with appropriate brown paper shopping bags.
@@GunBlue490 Thanks mate . Confirmed my thoughts . I am also a strong proponent of good bedding . I have ALL my sporting rifles shooting near target accuracy. My target rifles are down to 1/2 moa if not better depending on the nut behind the bolt . I have seen that with partial floated barrels with bedding say 6 inches forward of the action that tuning the barrel by trimming back the bedding till the correct harmonic is found is also an option . Probably better just tuning the load I reckon ?
Thanks for your videos and your time replying to me .
Cheers
Very well done. Great information.
I've just purchased a Winchester featherweight that has the same bedding as the featherweight on your video. There is one problem I've noticed though, although the stock is bedded, there is contact between stock and barrel on the last 2" of the barrel channel. Is this repairable, and should I even bother attempting to repair?
That stock is supposed to be free floated. I'd call Winchester right away. Do not attempt to repair it yourself or you'll void the warranty.
@@GunBlue490 Thanks for the advise.
Is pillar bedding important or necessary, particularly on walnut stocks?
Thank you
Excellent video! That you
Is glass bedding a synthetic stock worthwhile?
My Lithgow Arms LA101 22WMR is not shooting sub MOA 5 shot groups, tried 3 different types of ammo (not a plentiful choice in the UK but realise I need to try more).
Thanks.
I like your videos and enjoy learning from you. Thanks for sharing. I have an inexpensive Winchester Ranger .270 I purchased in 84 I wish I could make more accurate. Can I find a fiberglass or synthetic stock for it? Perhaps it would be nice to try bedding it like you have shown with a better stock?
You said the shoe polish was good for about 200 gun projects. How many guns have you made?
Love your channel. I just found it and can't stop watching your videos. You may have addressed this already but I can't find a comment that answers my question. Does the Devcon 10110 Plastic Steel Putty work on a synthetic stock? I have a Remington 783 that I would like to glass bed.