Not sure why Fanatec insist on interpolation at 1 or 2 in their settings as it feels horrible, like the car is driving on rims. It's like over doing the sharpness on a TV. I tend to use 6 to 8 for most sims. Pretty much everything you've said, i've agreed with. RF2 and Raceroom FFB I find to be uninvolving and just cannot gather up the feels that people like Ermin Hamidovic absolutely swear by. AMS2 feels so dynamic and informative and ACC actually feels pretty good to me (though not as good as pre 1.8). LMU needs brake and FFB work as it still feels a bit numb but as an early access, its okay. Thanks very much for these settings, Sebring is nasty on my DD1 and borderline painful even with Michi Hoyer's basic settings. I look forward to trying these later.
Okay question for you, I also have the CSL DD but when I go over the curbs it is just violent... It's almost like it's going to break my base. Are you feeling this? I know you mentioned you valued your hands lol
No, there could be settings that can be changed to fix this. What level are you running your ffb at in game and on base. And what level is your impact strength at?
Check this video out. I made it when LMU was released. I know they changed some setting values, but try this and see what you think. ruclips.net/video/L-AZKZOtUtg/видео.html
I had mine set to 900, and in game it's set to "car" or something like this. Basically the car/game puts an artificial limit, similar to AMS2. If the wheel is not matching up, I'd suggest recalibrating the wheel or maybe remove the controller file and do a verification check on steam and let it pull down a new controller file if needed.
I’ve settled on setting all of those values to 0% and even went into the direct input json file and set FFB Jolt to 0.0. You still feel the curbs and bumps, but they’re not giant spikes of torque through the wheel. I feel like those effects like curb pull are artificial effects applied on top of the actual steering rack forces, and that’s just not very realistic. Maybe they work well for a low powered wheel but I run a DD2 at 100% force. So, I don’t need any extra amplification of rack forces.
My biggest complaint is the lack of tire scrub feedback. There’s almost no feedback regarding front tire grip level and other than the visual reference of the car not turning as much as the steering input, there’s no other sign that the car is under steering. For me, that’s a huge problem with the FFB that needs to be resolved. You can’t drive “on the limit” if you can’t feel “the limit”.
Great video I'm having trouble with my Asetek la prima too like this also the bumpy feeling even happens when your moving real slow and just turning the wheel back and forth it's like so one tapping a brick on my wheel so nasty and clunky and a car does not do that lol hope they sort that out . Also should you not be stttingd max torque on game to what your base is set at so 50% is 12.5 nm ? Cheers
I logged the ffb output torque trace from the game, and I'd done it before I'm rf2. It seems that anything high on the game side causes clipping of the output signal. I've a video I done about a year ago that goes deep into it with motec data from rf2, showing exactly this (although I was attacked with pitch forks at the time for suggesting it 😂). Regarding the grainy feel, I'm using game smoothening at 1 and the interpolation filter on 1. It's not as bad or noticeable when driving. So it could be mainly a static thing.
Thank you for this settings improved a lot. Only I don’t have any front end grip feel which make it really hard to drive at the limit. Do you have proper front end feel?
Front end feel should be ok in LMP2 and GTE. The hypercar is on a different tyre model and the front end grip on those can be difficult to feel, especially on cold tyres. I think this could be looked at by the Dev team.
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Thanks for this, looking forward to trying your settings out.
“Car specific FFB stregnht” is not available anymore?. Can not see that option in game.
Not at the moment. It is being requested on the forums.
Not sure why Fanatec insist on interpolation at 1 or 2 in their settings as it feels horrible, like the car is driving on rims. It's like over doing the sharpness on a TV. I tend to use 6 to 8 for most sims. Pretty much everything you've said, i've agreed with. RF2 and Raceroom FFB I find to be uninvolving and just cannot gather up the feels that people like Ermin Hamidovic absolutely swear by. AMS2 feels so dynamic and informative and ACC actually feels pretty good to me (though not as good as pre 1.8).
LMU needs brake and FFB work as it still feels a bit numb but as an early access, its okay. Thanks very much for these settings, Sebring is nasty on my DD1 and borderline painful even with Michi Hoyer's basic settings. I look forward to trying these later.
I can see the benefit of going higher on LMU and i still might do. These are my initial settings and I do think they will change.
Hi what sensivity you use ? 1080° ? And in game too ? Same value ?
Thanks
900 in wheelbase and I'm almost sure it's the same in game. Then the game will put a hard lock on per car anyway.
@@GSSimRacing I Have put 1080 and auto on fanalab. Will be nice too
I can’t even get my wheel properly synced with the game
what issues you having?
Okay question for you, I also have the CSL DD but when I go over the curbs it is just violent... It's almost like it's going to break my base. Are you feeling this? I know you mentioned you valued your hands lol
No, there could be settings that can be changed to fix this. What level are you running your ffb at in game and on base. And what level is your impact strength at?
Check this video out. I made it when LMU was released. I know they changed some setting values, but try this and see what you think.
ruclips.net/video/L-AZKZOtUtg/видео.html
@@GSSimRacing So I'm running 95% FFB and Collision strength is around 20%. LMU have since removed the curb settings.
can you advise me where to turn off the so-called shaking of the car
what wheel rotation are you using? I have mine set at 900 in game and in my fanatec control pannel and it still wont match up with the in game wheel.
I had mine set to 900, and in game it's set to "car" or something like this. Basically the car/game puts an artificial limit, similar to AMS2. If the wheel is not matching up, I'd suggest recalibrating the wheel or maybe remove the controller file and do a verification check on steam and let it pull down a new controller file if needed.
As above having same problem,You dont fancy doing a vid on how to do all this do you lol,Im a complete pc novice coming from ps5@@GSSimRacing
Yep I'll do something on ffb and so on in more detail.
can I adapt it to my 8nm CSL DD? which values should I increase? Only the ffb strenght?
Yes exactly. The ffb strength should be the only thing. Still try to avoid running it at maximum from the game as this could introduce clipping.
How your steering wheel flashing with me doesn't work and I don't have the game in fanalab software at all
I’ve settled on setting all of those values to 0% and even went into the direct input json file and set FFB Jolt to 0.0. You still feel the curbs and bumps, but they’re not giant spikes of torque through the wheel. I feel like those effects like curb pull are artificial effects applied on top of the actual steering rack forces, and that’s just not very realistic. Maybe they work well for a low powered wheel but I run a DD2 at 100% force. So, I don’t need any extra amplification of rack forces.
My biggest complaint is the lack of tire scrub feedback. There’s almost no feedback regarding front tire grip level and other than the visual reference of the car not turning as much as the steering input, there’s no other sign that the car is under steering. For me, that’s a huge problem with the FFB that needs to be resolved. You can’t drive “on the limit” if you can’t feel “the limit”.
Yeah that jolt line in the json is a must in RFactor 2 imo. The ffb there is dangerous sometimes...lol
I think that limit is harder to find in some of the hypercars. I'm not too convinced of the tyre model they run.
Great video I'm having trouble with my Asetek la prima too like this also the bumpy feeling even happens when your moving real slow and just turning the wheel back and forth it's like so one tapping a brick on my wheel so nasty and clunky and a car does not do that lol hope they sort that out . Also should you not be stttingd max torque on game to what your base is set at so 50% is 12.5 nm ? Cheers
I logged the ffb output torque trace from the game, and I'd done it before I'm rf2. It seems that anything high on the game side causes clipping of the output signal. I've a video I done about a year ago that goes deep into it with motec data from rf2, showing exactly this (although I was attacked with pitch forks at the time for suggesting it 😂). Regarding the grainy feel, I'm using game smoothening at 1 and the interpolation filter on 1. It's not as bad or noticeable when driving. So it could be mainly a static thing.
Thanks,this helped. Now if i can get the wheel to match what the wheel is doing in game I will be half way there to a decent lap.
Set game and driver to 900. This seems to work for me.
Thank you for this settings improved a lot. Only I don’t have any front end grip feel which make it really hard to drive at the limit. Do you have proper front end feel?
Front end feel should be ok in LMP2 and GTE. The hypercar is on a different tyre model and the front end grip on those can be difficult to feel, especially on cold tyres. I think this could be looked at by the Dev team.
Many thanks. Much appreciated
Top Job!
Something wrong with your mic, cuz when you speaking, i always hear a high pitch freq noise.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep a check on the audio. I usually do an audio pass before it hits RUclips.
Michi hoyer has some great settings on yt
I'll check his out, I think he is on simucube though?
Thanks
Thanks for the tips
Oh, and it's See-Bring ;)
No problem, I hope they help. And noted on the pronunciation 😉
Thanks ! +ABO