Spin Tech Frame connectors. I tried.... So frustrated. Cobra jet 27
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Hey Gang, in this video, I try and fail to make the frame connectors fit from spin tech. As you know, I can fabricate a lot of things and I'm willing to modify them when needed, but this was ridiculous. I gave up. I know...that's a rarity, but it happens. The cobra jet just doesn't need these. No car does.
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Parts that are not marketed as “universal” fit should NEVER require that much work. Thank you for doing this video! I’m grateful you have a platform that fellow Mustang owners can access to see product reviews like this, since we know the company won’t tell potential customers how challenging the installation might be.
I'm not at your level for metal work and most people who watch this aren't. So we appreciate the honest review of products such as this. You may have saved someone a lot of money and time.
As I was building my car, which was all original, I wondered what car the parts manufacturers used to create their parts. The term "massaging" a part into place literally turned into cutting apart and reshaping! Thanks for the video!
Loving the build as usual. Sorry about the loss of the owner, I know you will do him proud.
I went to "Jo Daddy University/Brooklyn Pony Branch" to learn how to install the TCI frame connectors in my '66. Thanks to you, Barry, I knew the tricks. These parts look awfully flimsy in comparison....
I think you said you're gonna grab a rotisserie soon- that will make your life a whole lot easier. It saved my bacon (and my back ;))
I used the subframe connectors from Tin Man Fabrication. They are designed for 69-70 mustangs and also fit the 71-73 Mustangs. They were half the price of the Spin Tech connectors you had, and fit my 73 Mach 1 perfectly. I got them with free shipping from Summit. Thanks for giving us all a heads up about Spin Tech. If you couldn't make them fit, the rest of us wouldn't stand a chance.
I saw this over on Tik Tok I think and wanted to come see it in larger format . Having tied plenty of mustang frames over the years I like the concept of this and I like how they implemented it. But they face may challenges . Up front the frame is below the pan so thats easy enough . As you saw the back cap the folds over the rear of the rails on a 70 makes up a Vee of sorts and would need the ears trimmed off or the ties notched to fit over them which I kinda like better. As the pan drops into the rear foot well it dips below the rear frames and torque boxes but their ties still have bulk hanging down which clearly is NOT going to go flush with the rear rail A simple glance can tell you that.THey should have simply made the tie transition into as flat a piece as possible at the rear floot well location. Then made up a top side to go into the rear foot well to weld through to the bottom strips and into the top side of the rear torque box which would have then made a full box in that area.
To be fair to the folks that made these things , its a tough ask to want a product that fits the way these do to just drop on there to a floor thats suspect and rails that have the stiffness of spaghetti. THey very well may have designed these around a car they had and they fit it , well aside for that rear portion hanging down like that. So lets forget about the portion after the rear foot well begings. They fit pretty damn good on the other mustang you had there.
I see a ton of comments from folks that are simply apauled by these . Folks , I tell ya . If you had a brand new never been driven anywhere 70 CJ car sitting there and you stick a jack under that frame rail end one time and lift the car . Youve just changed that car. If you had a produict that fit that car befiore you jacked it it will damn sure need some help fitting it after. You can put a jack out at the front of that rail by the bumper brakets and get it to move up and down with or without floor in the car. Everyone has to remember that mustangs werent some high end hand built stiff as a pin vehicle. They were made almost entirely of folded sheet metal and spot welds. In other words , they were build on the CHEAP !!! THey flex all over which is why so many stiffening products are made for them. I see folks painstakingly recreating spot welds and locations like that is somehow superior but thats far from so. It was cheap and quick and easy. If you are doing one of these cars weld that stuff up with decent welds on both sides after you have plug welded. (The torque boxes for instance) you will get a better final product.
Now I have no affiliation with the folks that made these things nor do I own anything they have ever produced . I just want information to remain accurate and the perspective in everyones head to remain realistic for those going down the mustang road. Im doing a 66 coupe in my shop right now . Nothing special , I just like the little cars . I cannot begin to guess what number this is for me doing all of this to one of these and I will say parts have improved ALOT . But believe me , nothing just fits without work on my end. So go easy on those follks and perhaps reccomend to them how they can revive that product and indeed make it useful for mustang owners . I can tell you now I see potential in them to surpass alot of whats out there. They are mimicking what a later mustang has under it for frames. If you look under a 2012 for instance those frams come all the way back much like they are trying to do here. Just needs to be thicker and redesigned with an upper half.
Australian Ford Falcons from 80 onwards had full frame rails from factory. That open gap at the rear is about 3/4" to 1", it only overlaps to the rear frame by about 1 1/2" and is spot welded too it. You almost had it.
Your honesty is refreshing.
I very much trust your skill set and insight. You are not one to quit until you know to just STOP and not further in something that you shouldn't. Very good call right there sir and your explanation of frustration is warranted. 👍💯👊
I am so sorry that you had all that trouble with the parts. Nothing is more aggravating than parts that will not fit. I run into that with aviation parts form the aircraft manufacture alot and it is terrible. You did give it a great shot at getting them to work. Also you probably saved someone else from making the same mistake and save them time and money. Bottom line is if a company makes a part the should make sure it actually works and fits properly before putting it out there.
Aftermarket parts. I’m convinced the only thing they fit are the box they come in. Good luck, Barry. Gonna be a sweet ride. I think I used the TCI or TCP connectors on my 65 with the X part in the middle. They sure help and I bet these will too, if they’ll ever fit.
my guess is they put those V cuts at the back section to bend them up but even if you did you would have to trim a heck of a lot off the top edge of the rear section .
I'm not sure what they used design a jig to build their frame connectors but probably not a 69 mustang,
At this point I would choose a spot, where it starts to lose contact with the floor pan or maybe near the T, cut off the back section, trim it to fit, then weld it to the front section.
I just heard some fantastic news I'm sure everyone will be happy about.
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I think that rear section is supposed to be bent up at that notch. It would require a lot of trimming but with it bent it looks like those holes will line up about the time the gap on the end closes.
Hey Barry. I am in Australia so importing frame connectors is not cost effective. I made my own from 50mm square tube. Inserted them and welded them into the front frame rail and welded them to the rear torque box using 5mm plate. All cost about $100 and took two weekends.
I just built a set of subframe connectors from DazeCars for my 67 Cougar. Basically, 2x2 square tubing cut then bent at certain angles and welded back together. Cost less than $40
Looks like to me the back half needs bent up to the frame. That would explain why there is a v cut and a plate where it is marked with a T. I would expect some trimming for anything like that. There seems to be a slight difference between older cars.
Glad it wasnt just me! I had similar experiences trying to fit them to my '66. I ended up cutting and remaking the rear, Not what you want to see after importing them over here to the U.K at great cost. Should have just fabricated my own from scratch, but thats hindsight for you!
Barry their's a guy I think in Utah that's restoring a 70 cuda and he was also putting in frame stiffners and he had to cut fir and weld em to fit the floor pans and I think he said the same thing not worth it with that if you do decide to use em good luck with em thumbs up 👍👍👍👍👍
That's frustrating for sure. You always expect some of a fight, but wow, these were not even close.
Thanks for sharing.
Instructions should say modification and fabrication needed. I looked at their web site pics and see where they cut n fitted (a lot). Think the bend on the back end was made wrong and i see where they cut a lot off. I think the end (designers idea) left open about an inch is the not trap debris and water in it. I agree i wouldnt use them either. As always great videography.
Wow. I was amazed that a company would sell a product that doesn't it. I think I would just cut off the back section and weld the front section. Thanks for the video.
Wow I was really looking to buy those. Thank you for the save
Good show
$225 Tin Soldier Frame Connectors fit like a glove!
I assume there is to be a box section under the rear subframe. As a stiffener it would need it. I think just jack the rear section until it touches at the top if the flange. Then weld in those “T” pieces. You could weld up the rear of the box too.
Just from experience! I always build what I need just because of this. They will tell you anything. The truth is when you try to fit it. Your Flustration level goes to its max! 😂😂
I have never found aftermarket stuff to work well unfortunately. It looks like they are designed to hang down in the back like that which I don’t understand why they would design them that way either!
That is so frustrating great video 👍
That car is going to be sweet.
I used Global West tubular subframe connectors on my '69 stang. They worked fantastic! And the installation was simple, fast and efficient. This looks like a nightmare to install.
Hello there Barry, we feel your pain here. On my 65 Fastback, I had to cut, splice and reweld one of my Mike Maier Racing subframe connectors.. After watching your TCI Brooklyn Pony segment, I just sliced that thing lickety split. These were in a class by themselves for build-design quality.. I'd be real interested to know, if anyone from Spin Tech ever reached out to you.. Please update us if so on upcoming segments... God bless brother...
Thank You Berry
great content as always barry i was getting annoyed just watching you getting annoyed if anyone could of made them work its you for sure i would like to hear an explanation from spin tech maybe they need to pay you to design ones that actually fit also really sad to hear about the owner and finishing the car is a nice tribute to him
Detroit Speed subframe connectors are the best design. I’m very happy with mine.
DSE & MMI are the best.
I know that you worked hard on getting the frame connector in, just wondering if there was some frustration, just everything coming together, and working upside down had anything to do with the not going in properly. Now I grant you, that rear section seems funky that they would have it hanging down. Although now seeing the video, I saw where they cleared for the rear spring shackle. Great work Barry
I had plenty of room to fit them, but they are just bad.
I thought it was normal to mod parts made today for vintage cars maybe im wrong but I've had to mod every part I've purchased for my 68 mopar .good video tho.
Mod, yes. Redesign, no. Thanks.
Do the ones that Third stall garage built for his convertible
I picked them up for my 1967 mustang and after fitting them up they didn’t fit how I wanted them to fit and I abandoned them to the scrap pile
Wonder what problems I will encounter when I put the cheap CJs on.
Hey Barry, great video. I know you take these mediocre parts as a personal challenge, but dang these were rough. I know you could make them work with 3-4 more modifications. Trim, bend and test fit! Could be your next T-shirt! 😂
Great Video, love the honesty.
There is so many junk parts out there its so frustrating!!
Would using only the section which does fit the floor pan, make sense to use, and cut off the rear section that doesn't fit the frame rail? That way the floor pan that is flexing would be stiffened.
Possibly.
looked good on paper
😂
The night shift designed the back end of those.
Hé,..your last video after this one - you uploaded were you did the 'tail end yesterday - , has today be removed? I watch you from the Netherlands EU as you may want to know.
It’s back up. Had a copyright claim. I had to re-edit
Get some tin man fab frame connectors. 😊
I was told that the subframe connectors should be installed when the car has the doors mounted and sitting on all four tires with the suspension holding the weight of the car. I am building a 67 Fairlane and i purchased the Crites subframe connectors. Does anyone have any insight to this? Thanks for the video,.... Love the channel
This car is on a dedicated jig.
did you make contact with the supplier to get a explanation ? i know you said there was no instructions which with your experience you don't need , just seems like a bit to much cutting
I did not.
Test fit test fit test fit than throw out 😂
Just how much stiffness or support do you think these things actually provide?
I would like to see that quantified.
I would probably just make my own if I was inclined to add this to a car.
They are probably more cosmetic than anything….
@@JoDaddysGarage drive on. I’m sure that with you on it, we can expect the best possible outcome.
I'm not there and I've never done one of those, but the whole rear section of that after market frame needs to be reconfigured to fit, yes you and I could make it work, but if the everyday person wanting to do this and think it's a weekend project, sorry but no thanks to that company make these parts ! Is there another company that builds the same thing ?
There are a lot of variations out there.
Hello, I see what Spin Tech was trying to accomplish with the frame connectors. Make them appear to be OEM. Impossible. And as you say in your description, "The cobra jet just doesn't need these. No car does." If FORD did not engineer these back in the day with hundreds of engineers working on the just the suspension you won't need these on a normal street driven car. Period. IMO Spin Tech needed to make that connector as "UNIVERSAL" as possible. Every bend needed to be notched and slotted and cut into 3 sections have a front, middle and back piece. trying to negotiate a 4 foot piece of steel into place is impossible. You could force the piece into place but then it would put pressure on the whole structure. Having 3 separate sections about 18" long would be doable. You got 2/3's of it in place already. I would cut off the piece under the floor. The last 1/3rd needs to be engineered for you car. Cut out the bottom section into 3 pieces so you have the sides and bottom. Get the sides to fit first against the frame rail then bend and weld the center section back on. This will have to be bent to take up that 2" gap in the back. Then weld the entire piece up while in the car. Doable, more work but is it necessary in the first place?
Ridiculous that you had to do the trimming that you did to make it go into place on the front. I can see minor adjustments to make a part fit but that is way beyond what a normal car guy would/or could do.
That blue post was in the way. That's why it wouldn't go up into position.
Wrong. That post is the same width as the leaf spring that goes there.
@@lynnh7694 Very doubtful that Barry would miss something that obvious, especially with his experience
@richardbyrne4659 I don't doubt his skills at all. Sometimes, when multiple points do not lining up, the obvious may be overlooked. It just appeared that way on the video. I wish that I had 10% of his skills.
Spin Tech should refund your payment. Thats above and beyond normal installation.
Just for laughs, here you are removing rust and they send you rusty parts to install🤣😂 yeah maybe they should stick to rusty mufflers 😳🤪
To be fair, they weren’t rusty when I got them…😂
@@JoDaddysGarage ah so your sweat from working that metal is what caused the rust (either that or tears) I had assumed they weren't really rusty (surface rust) as why I said just for laughs😜
hi barry looking good 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😄
I purchased muffler pipe sections from them, they are okay, but nothing special. Sharp edges poor finishing. Just run of the mill parts.
Bottom of your mustang 🏭 the red oxided over the undercoating my 70 mach is in primer DP40 gray i am going to spaying red dp40 seam seal but red over uder coat ???
This car had been blasted. They sprayed that inside and out.
So if i get it cars in factory was seamed and sprayed with red oxide primmer and black out and sprayed with tar undercoat if this is the steps any buddy now like you builds
That sounds about right. There is another video out there that does a great job demonstrating the paint process. I will try to find it.
ruclips.net/video/srNctHd1HXw/видео.htmlsi=Ndp6qDyC8pJZeR_M
That's pretty tacky. To charge a fair amount of dough to get a semi rusty part that doesn't fit. Seems like everything needs a little TLC to get it to fit right and I get that. Aftermarket replacement parts are not exact reproductions. But a purpose made part like that really should pretty much fall in. Just my opinion. Keep up the good work! You just saved somebody 400 bones!
Absolute JUNK !
6 cuts I could make them work. Haha, just kidding. You could probably take a pie section out of the rear piece and fold it up into the rear frame. Then just cut the top half of that side with the hole off. It’d fit and work just as good. I can’t believe they wouldn’t give some sort of directions to at least guide to some sort of installation approach.
Or…. I just throw them in the scrap pile.
@@JoDaddysGarage 😂
don't throw them in the scrap pile, the metal may be usable for something at some point.
$389.95
I don't know, but they look kind of flimsy to me, there has to be better ones available
Aftermarket parts are the best, not
Sad
GLOBAL west connectors so much better ,,,,
Those were a terrible design! Why would anyone use those!
Seems like that is a crappy design
Mike Maier Inc makes the best subframe connectors for these mustangs. Imho