How to Carve on a Snowboard for Beginners, [Part I]
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- Опубликовано: 7 июл 2024
- Hey snowboarders! If you're looking for a no frills, all bases covered beginner guide to snowboard carving, this is your one stop shop. This comprehensive video covers all of the forms, techniques, terminologies, and necessary knowledge needed for any skidded turner to start their first true carved turns. This is the UPDATED version of the old video which comes with various script, audio, and VX fixes, but you can view the old one if you’d like here.
• Video
This is a first to the HTCOAS (How to Carve on a Snowboard) series, so look forward to more!
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Timestamps:
00:00 - Introduction
02:30 - What actually is Carving?
04:49 - Long turns - the first turns
07:05 - How to perform your first carves
12:20 - Toeside U-turns
21:39 - Heelside U-turns
27:05 - Transitions
31:29 - Speed Mechanics
35:25 - Safety
37:32 - Carving gear recommendations
45:44 - Conclusion
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www.donek.com/
/ @ryanknapton
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Over the counter snowboards:
ridesnowboards.com/en-us/p/tw...
neversummer.com/products/mens...
www.lib-tech.com/orca
Rear entry bindings:
www.flow-bindings.com/en/
sp-bindings.com/
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Instagram: seunghmoon
RUclips: SHMSNOW
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Tip and Donate to my Kofi (like Patreon) at shmsnow
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Music:
Track: Xaia, Rain Man, Oly - Breakdown [NCS Release]
Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.
• 💿 No Copyright Lofi hi...
• Fluttering @ フリーBGM DO...
Extra Credits :
0:15 - 0:22 - • WE RIDE BIG - Snowboar...
Featured riders: me, CarvinGeek: / @carvingeek
I cannot express my feelings enough because I’ve been searching for something like this for at least a year! Thank you a lot! Usually it’s covered very basically but you dive deep
You're very welcome! Glad I could help.
Okay. I am now officially deeply in love with you. Sorry about that. But this video explains SO freeaking much, and for a non-intuitive analytical learner like myself, what a gift. I cannot thank you enough for your incredibly thoughtful, thorough, patient analysis/instruction. Wow! Just wow! Here in the U.S.. the open/forward riding style I would say is roughly divided into two camps: "alpine" style riding (as exemplified and promulgated by James Cherry) wherein the binding angles are double positive; and the more park-style riding (as exemplified by Ryan Knapton) wherein the binding angles are duck stance. Obviously, your instruction puts us much closer to the Ryan Knapton riding style. But he's been doing it so long, the technique is mostly just muscle memory for him, making it much harder for him to articulate or teach. You do such an beautiful job of breaking it down. I would be very interested in your reaction to the instruction of James Cherry . Like yourself, he is a brilliant teacher, but his forward/open body position eschews and disdains the duck stance. He also stresses the importance of elevating the shoulder on the inside of the turn.
Thank you for your compliments! I glad everything I tried to explain was clear and you understood it. I've seen James Cherry's video on carving form and it is so great. Many of the concepts from there can be applied to duckstance riding and they absolutely work.
From my understanding trying both methods, is that when you go posi-posi, you allow far more range of motion in your hips, which allows more involvement in your back foot securing and guiding the edge after you lead with your front foot. More hip torsion also allows more involvement of your obliques - which can make you take an even more aggressive edge angle. I have noticed a massive difference in keeping my speed and stability going +27/+15 especially on steeper or faster terrain. I feel much more capable to lock in my hips and command my board when I run posi posi - free style kinda lets you pop around like this video shows , but you can’t really get into the meat of a steep turn since you trailing foot won’t be able to participate as much as it needs to.
Just keep the vids coming, carving either +/+ or +/- the feeling of that apex turn will change your life.
Super helpful. Especially letting us know to not use the ankles to get the steeper angle! And wow-the video is really well done. Tons of work I'm sure. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!! The lack of ankle tension is a huge oversight for many.
This is a fantastic video. It's both much more thorough and easily understandable than any other I've seen on this topic. Great job!
Thanks got the time and effort in educating others. Best guide out here.
I am learning carving and watched more than 20 videos about it. Undoubtedly, it is the best video. Thank you very much.
Wow, thank you! Much appreciated.
Thanks for making this video brother. True gem 🎉
Great video! Got my carving basics down this season, but your video helped me better understand the technicalities.
Glad it was helpful!
This video is so awesome.
I wanted to thank you for this very detailed tutorial. I have been doing park riding but my knees cant take all the jumps anymore. So learning to true carve properly instead of skidded turns has been a new and fun experience for me. You definitely deserve so much more subs and attention for such amazing work.
Carving is something for everyone. I'm glad I could help you get into it!
Its best video for rookies, please do more and thank you!👍👍👍👍
awesome content, thank you!
ty for all the amazing videos! so informative and scientific
Can't believed i finished watching this video at 3am. i just returned from my snowboarding trip in Japan so i guess i'll have to save this video for my next trip. 😅
pack your shit and move closer to the mountains, you won't regret it
Dude! You are amazing! Thank you so much for this in depth tutorial!
Happy to help!
Hey I haven't finished this yet, but I am certain that this is exactly what I've been looking for from a tutorial. You are explaining everything literally, while also explaining theoretically. This is everything I've hoped for. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! I'm glad the long form video connects with some people.
Thank you 🎉 you are the best of the best 🎉
Great meeting you the other night at Big Snow, Seung. Thanks for your time and for directing me to your videos. This video (and part II) are really excellent. For folks who are contemplating watching this: definitely worth your time! Seung was nice to enough to spend 5 minutes with me the other night and it was a game-changer -- teaching me some of what you'll find in this video. Follow his advice and be amazed! I started snowboarding in the early 1990s and stopped in the mid-90s and just came back last year...and then saw what true carving was for the first time. I've been wanting to learn how to do it. Seung's teaching got me there -- a good start at least -- in 5 minutes! (The other critical advice I heard from another carver the other night: get over any concern about falling. Ya gotta go back to looking and feeling like a beginner to learn something new.)
It was great to meet you! Thank you for the kind words, and welcome to the carving club!
You said in 5 minutes, he got you there. What part of the videos did yall focus on?
@@acseattle1975 Basically 9-12 mins. And that exercise at 12 mins is what we did on the slope standing still, with the board perpendicular to the slope and facing uphill. Do exactly what you see there. Back knee comes down and a little forward; open stance (face front of board), straight back (don't lean over or hunch over) so weight is balanced above the toeside edge. The first time I did it while moving, I did a toe-side carve...it just happens. The other piece of advice, useful to think about on that exercise, which he may not have said here, but he said to me, is: get up on the toeside edge by just dropping your shins on to inside front of your boots...i.e., don't use your ankles (for now). Think about that as you do that exercise at 12. Seung gave me some quick advice on the heelside too (next section of video) but I learned more by watching this video before a trip to VT. It all worked! Key on the heelside, for me, in practice, was knees bent and putting more weight on the back foot, as he discusses...it was key to keeping that edge locked on a heelside carve. Other advice: take it pretty slow with long turns across the slope, and as I said, don't be afraid to fall...essential for learning and getting used to what is required to balance.
@@davidpalmer7976 thanks a lot for sharing, invaluable insight as you got to learn from Seung in person! Will review this comment again after work and take notes for my trip coming up this week. Cheers!
@@acseattle1975 Nice. One small possible edit: In the video, he does mention a little focus on the back leg to dig in the edge on a heelside, but it may have been that I felt a need to lean a bit more on my front foot, as I think about it. But I could be wrong. That's something you can figure out on the mountain if you're slipping on the heelside. Good luck!
Дружище, очень грамотно и доходчиво объясняешь, удачи в развитии канала!!!
Спасибо!
This video is too good to be free 😅
I also have a Knapton twin with a 295mm waist. Money well spent.
It's the perfect ww for me with a 9.5 mens foot, will never change it.
Thanks
Thank you!
Got recommended to your channel by a guy I met at Snozone, gonna try this out when I next go out to the slope!
Have fun! Might need to drop by snozone then.
@@shmsnow it's a bit smaller than what you're used to I think, but decent nevertheless and the staff are friendly, I go to the Yorkshire one, but I know theres one in Milton Keynes too?
@@iamMNKY Honestly size is not a big issue, more so the pitch of the slope and the snow quality. And there'll be more as the years go by, as more snow melts. That's the fate of this sport!
Been watching a lot of carving videos on RUclips recently, you name it. I think this is hands down the best one that actually works. I don’t think any of the videos tell you to bend your rear knee to the ground during initiation on the toe side while getting your body in that open position but before you comment on it, watch closely a lot of RUclips videos actually do that but they just don’t describe it that way. Most will say bend your knees and use the edge but that only works once the carve is initiated. Watch closely on how Knapton does it, it’s almost identical. I’m loving this, but I still got some work to do on the heel side… I’m going to try the tip of increasing some forward lean on the binding and see if that helps…. Thank you for the video again!!
The devil is in the details, which so many tend to glaze over. I try to get every little bit that's relevant to this skill level. I'm glad you think so highly, thank you!
@@shmsnow I had to head the mountain yesterday after watching your video and boom, I had the first heel side carve. I didn't realize that you also talked about forward lean in your video. I have a lot of issues with heel side right now with no forward lean on the binding, it feels almost impossible to tilt my heel edge to a greater degree without falling over. Any suggestions? Should I increase my forward lean?
@@samguan5236 Max out your heelside forward lean, it'll make your board pre-tilted and allow you to do less work to tilt your board enough to start a good heelside.
Wanted to report back that I had the aha moment on the heel side. It was lifting the front part of my feet against the boot and that created significant edge pressure giving me a very stable heel side! Amazing.
@@samguan5236 Glad you got it! Cheers to more "aha" moments to come.
Nice video … but I think you never mentioned binding angle … duck stance carving it difficult I would think … pos pos angle would be recommended no ?
This video is for beginner duck stance riders. Almost everyone starts duck stance - forward stance is great too, but I do not ride forward stance. I am not qualified to make instructional content on it.
Fabulous video and content, SHM, especially with the updates! Question: Do you find benefits to a true twin board like your Donek Knapton vs directional boards? Easier and more fun switch riding I guess?
Thanks so much for the compliments!
I ride true twin as a style choice, allowing my regular and goody to be almost identical and seamless. Directional carving is objectively superior in terms of just pure carving, but it prevents switch which becomes backwards carving (which is also very difficult). I also just haven’t tried riding directional, maybe I’ll try it during the summer.
Subscribed! Watched all your videos. Very detailed explanation from technique to gears. Awesome! Keep it up. Just to confirm the longest run in Big Snow is less than 100m?
Yes, it’s a small place. Come on a non holiday weekday for the least crowds!
Thank you so much for your videos! Just finished up with my first season of snowboarding. I’m planning to make a trip to big snow sometime this summer… do you do any in person coaching by any chance?
Just find me, and I’ll drop you some tips. 2 turns is all I need to see!
Thanks for sharing and great detail and tips. May I ask you what binding angles do you use? I want to model exactly like yours just to eliminate the confusion/additional variables. Thank you.
Glad I could help! +12/-12.
You blew my mind.. other guys Tommie Bennet and Jonathan Buckhouse told to DON'T rotate body on carve...
Not rotating body in the carve is okay for just basic carving. Rotating the body though, is a direct gateway to more advanced carves.
How many 'step on / in' bindings have you tried? I'm really interested in giving some a try but don't know which ones to go far. Wish I could try them all out and decide for myself. I hear Burton's are great if not the best, but also like the idea of step-ins where you can wear whatever boots you want.
So far I've tried -
- Step ons - highly responsive, but only compatible with burton boots and the heelcup is a huge killer for heelside carves.
- Flows - mid level response, but smallest highback (there is no heelcup) profile and compatible with all boots, amazing for heelside carves.
- Supermatics - between step ons/flows in terms of response and heelcup profile, compatible with all boots.
after watching this video I tried it and instantly I carved i was like WTH!!
hey what are the tongue inserts you had in the previous video?
They are called “powerride” inserts. As of current, they’re Japan exclusive, and unavailable as far as I’m aware of in the U.S.
Hi beginner here. I've been watching a lot of different videos on carving lately, like Ryan Knapton, James Cherry, and Malcolm Moore. I found your approach is quite different from them. Especially the part that shifting body weight a bit to the back, and not focusing too much on the front leg.
Can you kindly elaborate on why you prefer this approach comparing to others?
(Really like your waxing video btw!)
Advanced levels of carving involve fore-aft movements, where you shift your focus to the front of the board and slowly transfer your weight to the tail throughout the end of the turn. I elected to omit this skill for people starting out carving - I find it easier for beginners to focus on just keeping their weight towards the back instead of throwing it all over the place, when they don't yet know what carving actually feels like. The carve is more stable towards the tail end, anyways. Thank you for watching!
Hey, I don’t really agree with the board recommendations. Twinpig and Orca have sidecut radiuses of 6 and 7 m which is too little for comfortable carving to my mind. I have Yes Hybrid with 6 m radius and when I try to carve the board turns very fast and then goes back up the hill. I bought Korua Otto with 8 m radius and it makes much better longer carving turns. Donek is fine - it’s 8 m or more. 29.5 waist is probably overkill for most people because it’s harder to turn it and you don’t really carve with 90 degrees angle, it’s smaller. 26-28 waist should be enough usually. Also, Orca is a hybrid rocker board and cambers are considered better for carving. I would recommend wide stiff (hybrid) camber boards with 8+ m sidecut for carving. But I would like to hear your opinion on that. Great video!
For higher edge angle deep carves, absolutely, 6 and 7 meter radius sidecuts are way too small. For the deepest carves you absolutely need a board with >8 meters so that you actually have time to up/down unweight.
My 29.5 waist width and Flow bindings is honestly just a preference so I don't boot out in bad snow. I want to reduce overhang to the point of overkill, so I'm okay with a bit of excessiveness. I want to learn how to reach >90 degree carves like the Russian FunCarve folks eventually.
The boards that I include in my recommended board list are good for intermediate carving, but remember, they are all still "all mountain" boards. My Donek is for carving (which is the only snowboarding I do), while those boards are for everything all mountain, including carving. 26 - 28 cm waist width is totally good enough for intermediate carves, and whatever else you want to do with the board. I don't take my Donek into the park anyways, but others might want to take their Orca into the park, like the board is built for.
Hybrid Camber is a no go for me though. Pure camber or nothing else. Hybrid anything yields instability.
Cheers!
All depends on the size of your feet and your height/COG.
Does the snow condition matters? Like is there any diiference between fresh pow vs slush after freeze thaw? Thanks.
Snow conditions for carving? Flat hardpack and groomers are the best.
Wouldn't it be easier to achieve back knee down and open body position with +/+ stance? Great video!
Of course! Forward stance carving allows for much higher limits on form, such as body rotation and lower body postures.
Hi, I’m thinking about buying NX2 bindings too - could you share you experience with them? Did you try regular non-carbon NX2? Do you miss a heel rotation option? Do you feel it’s more comfortable to use NX2 specifically on the small slope compared to regular straps bindings? It’s tedious to lock and unlock straps on my Union Strata so often and I’m curious if it’s better with NX2. Are those bindings stiff enough for you and can you freestyle or butter with them? Did you have any issues or problems reliability wise? Thank you
- I've tried non-carbon flow bindings. As expected, they're less stiff than the carbon ones, but still do the job.
- Heel rotation is more important for directional softboot riding for correct force transfer to the binding. That being said I've never had to rotate the heelpiece for any binding, so I can't give a qualified opinion on this.
- I don't really see how the size of the slope has any relevance to how comfortable the flows are, but I think flows are great for any size terrain! I use flows for the purposes in this video - the heelside overhang reduction mostly, not so much the rear entry.
- The only reliability issues I have are that screws come apart somewhat loose often. Not the baseplate screws, the screws on the ladders/ratchets. I have to re-screw them in every few days so my bindings don't fall apart. Other than that, no issues when everything's tight.
@@shmsnow I meant that you need to unlock the back foot out of the binding every time you take a chairlift and lock in on top of the slope. If slope is long on the resort you do it not so often compared to a 70-200 m slope which you ride. A lot of people use Burton step-on or other easy-entry bindings to lock in fast and ride straight away in my freezer 200 m slope. So I thought NX2 are more convenient than the regular bindings
What're your thoughts on binding angles and the ability to lean your hip into the snow for laid out turns on heelside?
I ride true duck stance by personal choice, but purely for carving forward/positive angles are absolutely superior, mainly because due to your feet being rotated towards the heelside, your hips and upper body are natively more open, making it easier to get into the open body stance, among other benefits.
As for laid out Heelside carves, they’re extremely difficult to perform forward stance, and even more so duckstance. You need to open your hips and upper to ridiculous degrees, an advanced technique that required a lot, lot of practice. Knapton can do them consistently, but if you’re interested, check out the Russian FunCarve channel on youtube. They have some good tutorials on this exact thing.
@Suz Your lack of experience limits your perspective.
Lol, Suz back at hating on carvers without knowing anything.
@suz4359funny how all the pro carvers/racers have stiff boots with forward stance there is only one reason for this
Great guide great vid!! Thank u so much🙏🏾🙏🏾 greets from the Netherlands 🇳🇱
Glad it was helpful!
When you link turns, you mentioned open and closing your stance. When one finishes their toe side carve, in order to look behind them one must close their stance or look into the inside of the turn.
How do you open and close your stance relative to the example above?
I'm not sure what you mean. Could you elaborate?
would this method of carving work with double positive binding angles ?
Not really. Check out CarvingGeek for that.
Is there any cons for maxing out the forward lean?
More response on heelsides.
I'm wondering why all your recommended boards are hybrid profiles (camber/rocker/camber) instead of being the classical camber. I always thought classical camber is the best for carving. Is it no longer the case?
It just so happens that all the over the counter boards popular in the US are non-camber profiles. Camber is still the best for carving, always has, always been!
Hi nice video. Beginner here. I was told to put 60% of your body weight on the toe side and initiate the turn my knee steering and keeping the body as straight as possible. After watching your video, you are leaning back and putting most of the weight on your back foot as well as turning your body. Can you walk me through the mechanics. Im trying to understand so i can do it. Thanks again for a cool video
These are two different styles. The one you are describing is the AASI (American Association of Snowboard Instructors) approved style of carving, where you keep your shoulders in line with your board the whole time (closed body). It also uses knee steering and the other things you described.
This style is just fine for basic carving. The style of carving that I use however, and that I go through in this beginner video, is different from the AASI approved style - primarily by the shoulders and board being perpendicular to each other (open body) during the turn (very important), and weight heavily towards the tail. This style is more advanced, and more importantly sets up the proper base form the advanced techniques require in my part 2 video.
Basic carving can be achieved with BOTH the style that I use and AASI approved style. But advanced, super-high edge angle carving, can't be done with the AASI approved style. The style I employ, and the basics I teach here, set up for high edge angle duckstance carving.
As for the mechanics specifics, try cross comparing your footage that you've taken of yourself (or have someone to take a video of you) to my footage. This should help rectify form issues with some effort on your part. Also review the part where I talk about common mistakes - the devil is in the details. Remember to press all of your weight into your back foot boot tongue and not to tension your ankle in the back foot.
Hope this helped!
@@shmsnow thanks. Very very helpful. I will rewatch your video so I can work on the motion before hitting the slopes.
@@ct9375 You're very welcome!
What pants are you wearing? I need a durable one for carving 😅
None! Just get black pants and pray.
What’s ur boot size?
9.5 mens.
Hello I come here at Big Snow a lot with my wife to learn snowboarding. Would you be willing to do lessons for us? If so, can I email you for price, etc?
seunghwimoon@gmail.com
Backside looks like sitting on Toilet...gg
ggnore!