thanks for going into more detail than most "plug and play" videos. I always like to know exactly what I'm actually doing to the equipment I'm tuning, not just following some quick and dirty tutorial. Also water on the diamond stones helped prevent clogging i was previously experiencing. thanks!
@@shmsnow could you perhaps explain the difference between wetting and not wetting the towel during the no scrape method? Seems like a few people were mentioning that you shouldn't wet the towel.
Super detailed and makes sense! I took the edge off mine this season to see if it helps with catching on flats. It does feel less fussy for sure but turning on icier snow is hard!
Wow, thank you so much for that the video so comprehensive i’ve always been a bit afraid to use my tuning kit, but it’s giving me the confidence to go ahead and have a go.
The dinks from hitting stones are - due to heat generated on impact with the stone - hardened on the surface and before treating them with a diamond stone one should treat them with a aluminium oxide stone first to soften them. This will help the lifetime of the diamond stone. There is another aspect to the frequency of how often you tune your edges - doing a little touch up (with the finer grid stones) more often makes the edes hold up longer than riding them until they are completely dull (not to say round) and then having to do a lot to them.
I've often heard it recommended to only run the diamond stone from nose to tail, not sure if it makes a material difference outside of top level racing, but thought it might be worth mentioning.
-12/+12, thanks for the compliments! I'd love to try directional freeriding but it would kill any hope of me retaining my switch skills. So maybe later.
Thank you so much for this video with so much information. I saw your video after I bought the outdoor master snowboard edge tuning and hot waxing kit. They provide a file with angles(90,89,88,87) to tune the edge. But in your video you said never use a file to tune edge. I'm a little confused.
I want to tune/sharpen the edges of my 2022 Huck Knife. It states that there is "..Freestyle Edge Bevel - From detuning the tip and tail to a 2-degree edge holding tune throughout the key parts of the sidecut, back to a 3-degree bevel between the feet...". How can I make the transition of the 2 to 3 degree angle? Thanks for the detailed video and your help.
It's a little complex, but slowly section of the parts that are 2 degree and 3 degree and tune them, making sure the edge tuning tool is set at the right setting.
Make sure the edge tuner is set to the same side edge angle as the board (some edge tuners have one set angle), insert the diamond stone so it is stable, place the setup on the side edge, tune away.
www.thepisteoffice.com/index.php/1-tuning-advice/edge-angles-wax-data/15-ski-manufacturers-edge-angle-specifications Check this website. Unfortunately this tool doesn't do half angles on the side angle, just the base. But if you're looking for the exact 1.5 edge angle, there are plenty of other good tuning tools out there.
There is a very easy way to determine the edge's angles (base and side). You have to paint a small part of it with a marker, then go over with the sharpening tool. If the tool's angle match with the edge's angle, then the trace of the marker will be erased along the entire edge's height. If not it will be deleted only part of the marker trace.
Can you explain or do a demo on magnatraction or serrated edges? I assume a similar process, but unclear what the base and side edges are for instance lib tech magnatraction and how to deal with what is possibly a base and side edge degree which varies depending on where you are along the edge. Comments in another forum suggests the contact points may have a more extreme degree angle and less along lesser contact points.
Edge tuning with magnatraction is tricky since the edges are in waves, and a typical diamond stone does not rest against the waved edge completely flat. I'm pretty sure libtech sells a custom file/stone guide specifically for magnatraction, but I'm not sure.
thank you@@shmsnow Though it looks just like my Demon DS 7100 which also has 88 90 bevel edges. I have used this on my lib tech, but unclear how effective it is because even as magnatraction edges becomes dull they still grip well. Perhaps their tool has has some bend or specific shape to it helping it stay level with the edge as you go along.
Awesome video! In your last video on waxing, you shared this cool paper towel technique as a quick way to wax your gear. How much brushing should I do before and after if I plan to do the quick paper towel wax?
Before waxing, use the metal brush to remove dirt and wax. After, since the paper towel method uses little to no wax, use all three brushes in order, brushing with heavy strokes but not too many passes.
Will you have a normal wear-and-tear snowboard repair video? I'm responsible for maintaining my friend's boards and I've been noticing more chips on the top layer and whatnot.
Top sheet wear and tear is something that occurs with all boards, and is not much to worry about in terms of performance (if for appearances, there's not much you can do for your topsheet.) I will work on a video on base repair assessment and performance in the future.
@@shmsnowThanks for the info, your videos are great. One more question, have you tried double positive stance? I've been seeing James Cherry, and JustaRide Snowboard doing it and wanted your opinion since yours was the original video I was learning off from.
Thank you so much for the content!! Super helpful and I really love it❤. Quick question on “not tuning base bevel” part: sometimes there are burrs on the base bevel and if I directly wax it may damage the iron. In this case, would it be okay if I use a diamond stone to scrape it as in like always keep it flat with the base? Thanks!!
What would be the optimal side edge angle do you preferred for lay down style carving? I heard someone mentioned they change their side angle to the 87~86 degree
86/87 side edge angle is super aggressive, and delves into the ski and slalom racer realm of edge sharpness. You only ever need those side bevels if you’re carving on very icy double/black runs. Laid down carving is all about technique anyways. An 88 degree side bevel should be enough.
Great tutorial! I unfortunately don’t live anywhere near a board shop so I tried tuning my base edges as well. Definitely should have listened to your advice. I scraped up the base pretty good in the process because I was trying to turn a 0 degree into a 1 degree edge bevel. Is there a way to smooth out scuffs and scratches besides melting ptex into them? They’re not deep more textured than anything.
A base grind at a shop will get rid of the shallow scuffs and scratches. Just make sure you find a really good shop that knows exactly - EXACTLY - what they're doing with base grinds.
Love your videos. Do you know how long do the stone diamonds last? Like how many uses ? I’m ordering from abroad and I want to purchase enough for a long time
Thanks for your video it's very helpful. I have a question for you. I've got the same edge tuning kit (swix) it has all those tree stones that you have, plus one abrasive. Do you know what is that for?
If I don't want to sharpen my edges but want to just remove all the burrs from riding rails what do you suggest I do? I run a gummy stone but it doesn't seem to do much when the burrs are bigger
So how do I get my edges sharper? I got a used board and although the edges are smooth to the touch, they don’t take off nail material. Is there a tutorial on using a more coarse file to sharpen edges with that multitool?
You would use a file i stead of a diamond stone and go through the same process, but it is pretty difficult if doing it for the first time. You should fine someone experienced or a shop to do it for you.
Great video and thanks once more for putting in the time to share this knowledge with us. Do you have any expericence with and tips for tunig serated edge (like Lib Tech/GNU's magne traction)?
@@shmsnow alright, thx. Well, probably if you do it manually, then it's no problem. If you put it through a service machine, the edges are gonna get messed up and you can throw away the board (happend to a shred-buddy of mine). That's probbaly what Mervin is refering to.
I gotta disagree in both areas. While, of course the may be shitty/old machines and sure are lazy/incompetent operators of them, modern machines do handle Magne Traction just fine. The thing I would be more scared of with shops, is them likely not caring for what angle your board currently has, and applying their preference, which may well be targeted towards skiiers. Not sure whether these fully automatic machines that work through a whole bunch of skis and boards in one go have sensors to detect current angles and adapt to them, that would be cool and one would sure hope so, but who knows. As for manually doing your edges, yes you can do it, but no, you can not do it as shown in the video. At least with the older, less mellow Magne Traction is so, that in the concave parts a normal diamond stone used with its long side like in the video wolud just touch the edge at two points with its ends and not in the rest of the concave parts, similarly you could only make it touch parts of the convex parts and had to take care to follow the curvature of the edge. What should work is using the stone sideways or at an angle, so that a much shorter part is touching the edge, this can be done with the fixed guides that consist of the actual guide and a separate clamp to attach the file or stone to the guide any way you want. What does work quite nice and swiftly (and is what I use) is the SKS Swing Cut guide, that has two inserts for two small quadratic diamond stones (or files) that swivel, so as you go both permanently follow the curvature of the edge.
If you’re using a typical NA brand, the side edge angle is usually 1 degree. That’s your safest bet. You can ask your local reputable board shop about it as well.
Use a felt tip pen to paint a short section of the edge, then go over that section one pass with the guide - if the paint is removed evenly, the guide is set to the angle of your board, if the paint is removed only near the base or near the top, change the guide to a steepor or shallower angle and start over. If no paint is taken off, besides a way too steep angle, a board that had it edges tuned quite some times already may need its sidewalls cut to make them recessed in relation to the edge again..
Depends on where you defiled, if thats what you meant. In that case, you have to grab the file and then sharpen the edge with the file instead of the diamond stone.
@@shmsnow Thanks for the reply! I really apprecaite it dude. Yeah so I used the file on the side edge like I would use a diamond stone as some other video on here said that was the best way of tuning my edges. 😬I had it set to 90° when I did it. I have a Burton so should I just set the file to 89° and just file the side edge back to it's original side bevel angle of 1°? And then just use the diamond stones to tune as needed for the tuning going forward? Just hoping I haven't completely messed up my edge angles.
@@whatmagicisthis Yea, that should be okay. You can't just magically increase your side edge angle from 89 -> 90, so not too much damage should have been done anyways when you ran your file over the side edge at the 90 degree setting. Just a few passes with the file at 89, apply even and medium pressure, watching for spaghetti like metal filings to appear while you pass the file/guide over the edge, and you should be good. After resetting the side edge to 89 degrees, just use diamond stones after that, for just polishing.
@@shmsnow Amazing! Thank you so much, dude! I really apprecaite you taking the time to answer my questions. Keep on crushing it. I've said it before but it bears repeating- your videos are awesome!
Looks like that board needs some base nourishment. Those things need 50 waxes on them before they start to ride good and that base is dry as I’ve seen try waxing it.
I have watched a lot of these types of videos and this one is a 5-star, well done.
Thank you!
Thx I love these types of comments, they save me time from watching other videos
I was so overwhelmed by the idea of tuning my own board and this video is extremely helpful
thanks for going into more detail than most "plug and play" videos. I always like to know exactly what I'm actually doing to the equipment I'm tuning, not just following some quick and dirty tutorial. Also water on the diamond stones helped prevent clogging i was previously experiencing. thanks!
I'm glad I could help, thank you!
@@shmsnow could you perhaps explain the difference between wetting and not wetting the towel during the no scrape method? Seems like a few people were mentioning that you shouldn't wet the towel.
@@TreyCamp The difference in material - you wouldn't want to try to use the no scrape method with a dry paper towel, but the towel will work.
One of the best vid about edges. I dont believe that im watching 2k subs channel.
I genuinely appreciate your high opinion. Thank you!
Great video, didn't see 0:43 coming 😂
Super detailed and makes sense! I took the edge off mine this season to see if it helps with catching on flats. It does feel less fussy for sure but turning on icier snow is hard!
Great to hear!
Killer edge tuning video man! I love the little paper diagrams you made.
I'm glad the diagrams helped!
Best waxing and tuning videos i found on youtube! Very helpful. Thank you! Keep up the good work.
Glad you liked them!
What a fantastic video, thank you so much!
Glad you enjoyed it!
The perfect video. Thank you for talking through the nuances of the process.
Man your close-up shots are so meditating haha, I love the way you film things!
Glad you like them! Love ya
I didn't know one should wet the edges, thank you!
Excellent video, thanks. Has made the process very clear and addressed a number of questions that I had. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
One of the best videos on the topic. Very clear, logical and comprehensive!
Awesome vid , keep up the good work , thats the best waxing and tuning vid i can find , very detailed , thx again !
Much appreciated!
Hands down the best video I’ve seen on this topic!!!! Love the technical details.
extremely underrated channel
Very informative video, thanks for sharing.
I have no idea how you only have 1.6k subs… your videos are some of the most informative snowboard videos out there… thank you for this
I appreciate that! Thank you!
Wow, thank you so much for that the video so comprehensive i’ve always been a bit afraid to use my tuning kit, but it’s giving me the confidence to go ahead and have a go.
Glad it was helpful! The tools aren't cheap so get your money's worth.
duuuuude your production is absolutely nuts. Thank you!
The basics will take you far! I'm glad you like it.
excellent tutorial, many thanks.
dang...the first video where I wish you would have included referral links to the tools..such a great video. Thank you sir!
Check out the video description, copy and paste!
A very useful video. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
To keep track of the material removal from the edge, I suggest using a Sharpie.
The dinks from hitting stones are - due to heat generated on impact with the stone - hardened on the surface and before treating them with a diamond stone one should treat them with a aluminium oxide stone first to soften them. This will help the lifetime of the diamond stone.
There is another aspect to the frequency of how often you tune your edges - doing a little touch up (with the finer grid stones) more often makes the edes hold up longer than riding them until they are completely dull (not to say round) and then having to do a lot to them.
Muchísimas gracias 🫡🫡🫡
Great video, honestly the best on the topic I've seen in years! Usually using even the red stone only is enough for me
The red stone should be good enough for both, unless you're racing or need the slightly more polished edge for pure ice.
I've often heard it recommended to only run the diamond stone from nose to tail, not sure if it makes a material difference outside of top level racing, but thought it might be worth mentioning.
This is great, thanks so much
Thank for the video, brother!
Thanks for the video. Btw, I'm amazed they you carve with that -15 +15 stance. You'll kill it off you go posi on both bindings
-12/+12, thanks for the compliments! I'd love to try directional freeriding but it would kill any hope of me retaining my switch skills. So maybe later.
great video!
Thank you so much for this video with so much information. I saw your video after I bought the outdoor master snowboard edge tuning and hot waxing kit. They provide a file with angles(90,89,88,87) to tune the edge. But in your video you said never use a file to tune edge. I'm a little confused.
Yes, filing is the extremely aggressive option. You want to use diamond stones for polishing the edge, not the file.
Amazing video!
Describing what happens when your sides are dull was huge! I now know my edges are dull
I want to tune/sharpen the edges of my 2022 Huck Knife. It states that there is "..Freestyle Edge Bevel - From detuning the tip and tail to a 2-degree edge holding tune throughout the key parts of the sidecut, back to a 3-degree bevel between the feet...". How can I make the transition of the 2 to 3 degree angle? Thanks for the detailed video and your help.
It's a little complex, but slowly section of the parts that are 2 degree and 3 degree and tune them, making sure the edge tuning tool is set at the right setting.
Hey! Thanks for the video! Could you explain, why do you make edges and diamond stones wet before tuning?
To facilitate the removal of particles from the edge when polishing.
Could you do a quick how to using something like a dakine edge tuner or any other basic edge tuner for people like me that have on that came in a kit
Make sure the edge tuner is set to the same side edge angle as the board (some edge tuners have one set angle), insert the diamond stone so it is stable, place the setup on the side edge, tune away.
Great guide. How often should i be doing this?
Depends on what style of riding and the conditions you ride in. Carving + icy all mountain conditions require good edges, while park not so much.
Thanks for the vid! Does that tool do half angles? Rossi has all their manufacturerd edges at 1.5 degrees (verified today w customer service).
www.thepisteoffice.com/index.php/1-tuning-advice/edge-angles-wax-data/15-ski-manufacturers-edge-angle-specifications
Check this website.
Unfortunately this tool doesn't do half angles on the side angle, just the base. But if you're looking for the exact 1.5 edge angle, there are plenty of other good tuning tools out there.
There is a very easy way to determine the edge's angles (base and side). You have to paint a small part of it with a marker, then go over with the sharpening tool. If the tool's angle match with the edge's angle, then the trace of the marker will be erased along the entire edge's height. If not it will be deleted only part of the marker trace.
That totally works if you can't find the manufacturer's specs.
Can you explain or do a demo on magnatraction or serrated edges?
I assume a similar process, but unclear what the base and side edges are for instance lib tech magnatraction and how to deal with what is possibly a base and side edge degree which varies depending on where you are along the edge.
Comments in another forum suggests the contact points may have a more extreme degree angle and less along lesser contact points.
Edge tuning with magnatraction is tricky since the edges are in waves, and a typical diamond stone does not rest against the waved edge completely flat. I'm pretty sure libtech sells a custom file/stone guide specifically for magnatraction, but I'm not sure.
Looks like they do, but I assumed could be done with out it. Though like you said if specific then maybe not.@@shmsnow
@@J_Smith7 www.lib-tech.com/mtx-magne-traction-edge-tuning-tool-1 Here it is! I found the tool that Libtech sells.
thank you@@shmsnow
Though it looks just like my Demon DS 7100 which also has 88 90 bevel edges. I have used this on my lib tech, but unclear how effective it is because even as magnatraction edges becomes dull they still grip well.
Perhaps their tool has has some bend or specific shape to it helping it stay level with the edge as you go along.
@@J_Smith7 I think the file guide and the provided file is smaller than a typical rectangle file, which helps it adhere to the wavy edge more.
Awesome video! In your last video on waxing, you shared this cool paper towel technique as a quick way to wax your gear. How much brushing should I do before and after if I plan to do the quick paper towel wax?
Before waxing, use the metal brush to remove dirt and wax.
After, since the paper towel method uses little to no wax, use all three brushes in order, brushing with heavy strokes but not too many passes.
Will you have a normal wear-and-tear snowboard repair video? I'm responsible for maintaining my friend's boards and I've been noticing more chips on the top layer and whatnot.
Top sheet wear and tear is something that occurs with all boards, and is not much to worry about in terms of performance (if for appearances, there's not much you can do for your topsheet.) I will work on a video on base repair assessment and performance in the future.
@@shmsnowThanks for the info, your videos are great. One more question, have you tried double positive stance? I've been seeing James Cherry, and JustaRide Snowboard doing it and wanted your opinion since yours was the original video I was learning off from.
@@lequacken9801 No. I have not tried positive stance. I would love to, but I'm afraid it would detract from my switch ability.
Thank you so much for the content!! Super helpful and I really love it❤. Quick question on “not tuning base bevel” part: sometimes there are burrs on the base bevel and if I directly wax it may damage the iron. In this case, would it be okay if I use a diamond stone to scrape it as in like always keep it flat with the base? Thanks!!
Yes you can, but use a base bevel guide, and carefully!
What would be the optimal side edge angle do you preferred for lay down style carving? I heard someone mentioned they change their side angle to the 87~86 degree
86/87 side edge angle is super aggressive, and delves into the ski and slalom racer realm of edge sharpness. You only ever need those side bevels if you’re carving on very icy double/black runs. Laid down carving is all about technique anyways. An 88 degree side bevel should be enough.
Great tutorial! I unfortunately don’t live anywhere near a board shop so I tried tuning my base edges as well. Definitely should have listened to your advice. I scraped up the base pretty good in the process because I was trying to turn a 0 degree into a 1 degree edge bevel. Is there a way to smooth out scuffs and scratches besides melting ptex into them? They’re not deep more textured than anything.
A base grind at a shop will get rid of the shallow scuffs and scratches. Just make sure you find a really good shop that knows exactly - EXACTLY - what they're doing with base grinds.
Love your videos. Do you know how long do the stone diamonds last? Like how many uses ? I’m ordering from abroad and I want to purchase enough for a long time
Just clean them after every use with a small brush and water and they will last you years.
@@shmsnow That's great news, thank you!
Could you provide a link for where to purchase these?
In the description, you can copy and paste everything into google!
thank you for the video, but my eye can't handle the out foucs🤣
Sorry to hear that!
Thanks for your video it's very helpful. I have a question for you. I've got the same edge tuning kit (swix) it has all those tree stones that you have, plus one abrasive. Do you know what is that for?
To remove rust - not as agressive as a file, but nowhere as sharp as a diamond stone. The abrasive stone is right in the middle between those two.
Can you explain why we shouldn’t tune the base edge a little more?
Not shouldn't, but more so that you should have someone with experience perform base tuning, or to teach you first.
Hi, is this Knapton Twin?
Yes.
If I don't want to sharpen my edges but want to just remove all the burrs from riding rails what do you suggest I do? I run a gummy stone but it doesn't seem to do much when the burrs are bigger
If burrs are too large, that's just permanent damage. Just wear and tear from normal riding!
Can I remove rust with coarse or diamond stone if I have not got gummy stone? Which stone is better to use?
You could use a coarse stone to rub off rust, but it would take significantly more effort than using a gummy stone.
So how do I get my edges sharper? I got a used board and although the edges are smooth to the touch, they don’t take off nail material. Is there a tutorial on using a more coarse file to sharpen edges with that multitool?
You would use a file i stead of a diamond stone and go through the same process, but it is pretty difficult if doing it for the first time. You should fine someone experienced or a shop to do it for you.
Great video and thanks once more for putting in the time to share this knowledge with us. Do you have any expericence with and tips for tunig serated edge (like Lib Tech/GNU's magne traction)?
Glad you like it! You can tune magnetraction edges exactly just like a normal edge, despite whatever libtech might say.
@@shmsnow alright, thx. Well, probably if you do it manually, then it's no problem. If you put it through a service machine, the edges are gonna get messed up and you can throw away the board (happend to a shred-buddy of mine). That's probbaly what Mervin is refering to.
@@t.blaschke7461 Of course. This video is all about hand - tuning, after all.
I gotta disagree in both areas.
While, of course the may be shitty/old machines and sure are lazy/incompetent operators of them, modern machines do handle Magne Traction just fine. The thing I would be more scared of with shops, is them likely not caring for what angle your board currently has, and applying their preference, which may well be targeted towards skiiers.
Not sure whether these fully automatic machines that work through a whole bunch of skis and boards in one go have sensors to detect current angles and adapt to them, that would be cool and one would sure hope so, but who knows.
As for manually doing your edges, yes you can do it, but no, you can not do it as shown in the video. At least with the older, less mellow Magne Traction is so, that in the concave parts a normal diamond stone used with its long side like in the video wolud just touch the edge at two points with its ends and not in the rest of the concave parts, similarly you could only make it touch parts of the convex parts and had to take care to follow the curvature of the edge.
What should work is using the stone sideways or at an angle, so that a much shorter part is touching the edge, this can be done with the fixed guides that consist of the actual guide and a separate clamp to attach the file or stone to the guide any way you want.
What does work quite nice and swiftly (and is what I use) is the SKS Swing Cut guide, that has two inserts for two small quadratic diamond stones (or files) that swivel, so as you go both permanently follow the curvature of the edge.
@@elho001 ok, thanks for your tips!
are there any good methods to find side edge degree of new snowboard?
If you’re using a typical NA brand, the side edge angle is usually 1 degree. That’s your safest bet. You can ask your local reputable board shop about it as well.
Use a felt tip pen to paint a short section of the edge, then go over that section one pass with the guide - if the paint is removed evenly, the guide is set to the angle of your board, if the paint is removed only near the base or near the top, change the guide to a steepor or shallower angle and start over.
If no paint is taken off, besides a way too steep angle, a board that had it edges tuned quite some times already may need its sidewalls cut to make them recessed in relation to the edge again..
Do you have to detune the contact points for carving?
For carving, do not detune. Sharpen away!
Does the method presented in the film also apply to megne traction?
Of course, but use a Libtech Edge tuner for the best results.
Sooooooo...
What can I do for my edges if I have used a file on them a few times? Any advice would be appreciated!
Great vids also, my dude.
Depends on where you defiled, if thats what you meant. In that case, you have to grab the file and then sharpen the edge with the file instead of the diamond stone.
@@shmsnow Thanks for the reply! I really apprecaite it dude.
Yeah so I used the file on the side edge like I would use a diamond stone as some other video on here said that was the best way of tuning my edges. 😬I had it set to 90° when I did it.
I have a Burton so should I just set the file to 89° and just file the side edge back to it's original side bevel angle of 1°? And then just use the diamond stones to tune as needed for the tuning going forward?
Just hoping I haven't completely messed up my edge angles.
@@whatmagicisthis Yea, that should be okay. You can't just magically increase your side edge angle from 89 -> 90, so not too much damage should have been done anyways when you ran your file over the side edge at the 90 degree setting.
Just a few passes with the file at 89, apply even and medium pressure, watching for spaghetti like metal filings to appear while you pass the file/guide over the edge, and you should be good. After resetting the side edge to 89 degrees, just use diamond stones after that, for just polishing.
@@shmsnow Amazing! Thank you so much, dude! I really apprecaite you taking the time to answer my questions. Keep on crushing it. I've said it before but it bears repeating- your videos are awesome!
@@whatmagicisthis Haha thank you! I wish someone would tell me this stuff when I started out. Just fulfilling that wish on my end.
Can you make a video on bataleon the edge is not metal
If the edge isn't metal, it's probably not meant to be tuned. Less work for you!
Hi, dude, I have a K-twin too. What will happen if I change the 88 side bevel to 89?
Not physically possible, you can't add edge angles, only reduce.
Well, I accidentally set my tuner to 89 when I tuned the board. Have I damaged the board? Should I tune again at 88? I appreciate the help, thank you.
@@oggytudor5896You can just re-tune with 88 degrees and your edge will be okay. Do not worry!
Sweet! Thank you again for the help, Cheers 🤙🏻
where did you learn this ?
Friends, mentors, the internet.
You might want to put the warnings and do not use at the beginning.
Dude this could have been a 4 minute video. Way too long, just show us how to use it! 👎👎
This video is for us nerds that like to know why, and how.
Looks like that board needs some base nourishment. Those things need 50 waxes on them before they start to ride good and that base is dry as I’ve seen try waxing it.
Is it ok to edge tune with only coarse diamond filer? Too much expenses for a one time for me 😢🫣
Of course. You only really need the sharpest edges for carving, the coarsest diamond stone is totally enough for normal all mountain riding.