This is fantastic, as you know, it's a bit easier in orca slicer since you just have to right click and do PAUSE. but in orca you can also add multiple filaments (with different settings, or the same but with a different color) and you can right click in the slicer slider and do 'change filament > ' and pick the filament color you want to switch to, add another on the layer(s) above, and then slice again, and you can preview it in color, and it inserts pauses at each filament change
Use Orca Slicer! Right click on the Layer slider at the layer you want a pause and pick pause. It's that easy. I do color prints on my K1C all the time. Orca slicer makes it easy.
Orca is much slower over the Creality Slicer 4.3 and worse quality with default profiles too. There is Creality 5.0 with color and pause on layer options and printing well but still slower than 4.3.
The problem it adds M600 g-code which will not work on stock Creality K1. Without rooting and adding M600 macro in fluid. I did try that with Galaxy Slicer and K1 just ignored M600 command.
Wanted to say thanks for the informative video. I'm trying to mess around with some multi color prints before I root my K1 and explore other options. Figured i'd start vanilla first.
@@FabioDiasBR yes, plenty of videos how to do it in Prusa slicer BUT it's way more steps on Creality K1 because there is no M600 macro in stock FW. And my video might be the first how to do this on Creality Print because all other videos do you all kinds of slicers, as 'creality print is so bad'. Yet, somehow it's the only slicer that prints the fastest and most. reliable out of the box on the K1. Prusa slicer does not have K1 support at all.. Orca slicer does have K1 profile but speed and quality is bad. Galaxy slicer same thing. No profiles for Cura and the list goes on. All public K1 profiles online ARE SO BAD again simply compared to the stock Creality print slicer.
This was a great video. I was thinking about ordering the kc1 after wanting to do carbon. Seeing this is inspiring I can basically do what the x1 can do for 1/4 the price. What do you think of the k1c??
I print with PETG, so regular K1 is the best for me :) I think, you can replace nozzles on the K1 if you need hard materials. So I do not see any benefits in K1C.
I did. Default K1 profile on Orca nowhere near to quality and speed of Creality Print, as you can see I have GalaxySlicer open to preview print progress but I don't use it for slicing for the same reason. And it adds M600 command not PAUSE. Again, you need to add M600 Macro on K1, so just many extra steps totally useless. I still have to find what is the purpose of rooting K1 and installing Mainsail. Haven't find a single useful function from doing that yet.
Yea the old one cloiged on me afte my 3rd print after retracting, hopefully had that 3 year warranty from canadacomputer gave me a updated one a day later, THanks for the info btw! @@MrTechcat
likely in the wrong spot, but orca slicer is going to be your best bet since it's all availalbe in the GUI, no coding, and you can see the color change in the slicer
yes, pretty easy, after paying +$600 more for the printer and addons, plus double for every branded overpriced filament after that. :) The whole Creality K1 was $300 ONLY on a Holiday promo!
@@MrTechcat Gotta pay premium for carefree color changes! haha You don't need to use name brand filaments for the AMS, works just fine with generic cheapo filament the lidar seems to do a pretty good job tweaking the flow ratio on its own.
@@intelli_mw I can make a whole video how Bambu is slow, expensive and you can't make anything about that. Though it takes less than $20 to make K1 print 3x faster and with higher quality over the Bambu P1/X1. The whole thing with the K1 you can put any parts you like and flash any FW for speed, quality or whatever you need.
Settle down here buddy.. No need to be so defensive. I thought we were talking about ease of use when doing color changes? Price, modification, and etc not part of this. I am sure a Subaru can run faster than a Lamborghini if you put in enough time and effort into it. But that's not the point. I am talking about ease of use out of the box. @@MrTechcat
@@intelli_mw K1 is faster out of the box already... but lets just pretend that both are as fast and easy to use out of the box. Yet simply screwing a CHT nozzle to the K1 you can double your speed and QUALITY already. You don't even have a choice on propriety nozzles of bambu. As 3D printing is not easy by nature. Easy is only printing all useless PLA toys from online.. until you need to make an actual custom part on your own.
I just came from your RUclips video titled "Slime 2.0 - Full Body Trackers for VR made on Creality K1" It turns out that one of your links where you could download the "stl" is broken and I wanted to know if you have another one or if you could send me the file internally.
Upvote feature request to add ability to insert PAUSE macro in Creality Print
github.com/CrealityOfficial/CrealityPrint/issues/57
This is fantastic, as you know, it's a bit easier in orca slicer since you just have to right click and do PAUSE. but in orca you can also add multiple filaments (with different settings, or the same but with a different color) and you can right click in the slicer slider and do 'change filament > ' and pick the filament color you want to switch to, add another on the layer(s) above, and then slice again, and you can preview it in color, and it inserts pauses at each filament change
Using orca slicer when I add a pause my k1 max throws and error
Very nice guide. and a big thumbs up for the Soviet Jupiter 8 lens.
Thank you for this! Was wondering what the best way to achieve this was. Will have a go myself.
Use Orca Slicer! Right click on the Layer slider at the layer you want a pause and pick pause. It's that easy. I do color prints on my K1C all the time. Orca slicer makes it easy.
Orca is much slower over the Creality Slicer 4.3 and worse quality with default profiles too. There is Creality 5.0 with color and pause on layer options and printing well but still slower than 4.3.
@@MrTechcat I've never had issue with Orca. I ditched Creality print do to poor quality and it kept crashing. Not a fan. Happy printing!
You are the solution to my problems, thank you my friend.
Super helpful, I was wondering how to pause the K1 for filament changes!
Glad it helped!
In Prusa-Slicer, this is a built in feature. You just select the layer you want the color change on.
The problem it adds M600 g-code which will not work on stock Creality K1. Without rooting and adding M600 macro in fluid.
I did try that with Galaxy Slicer and K1 just ignored M600 command.
Wanted to say thanks for the informative video. I'm trying to mess around with some multi color prints before I root my K1 and explore other options. Figured i'd start vanilla first.
Thats so cool am thinking of getting the max
This should just be a built in feature in Creality Print. It can't be that hard to add it.
There is a color change feature in creality print advance settings, it’s buggy though. So this why you need to edit the file manually.
It is in prusa slicer. And this is not specific of K1, one can do this in pretty much any printer...
@@FabioDiasBR yes, plenty of videos how to do it in Prusa slicer BUT it's way more steps on Creality K1 because there is no M600 macro in stock FW. And my video might be the first how to do this on Creality Print because all other videos do you all kinds of slicers, as 'creality print is so bad'. Yet, somehow it's the only slicer that prints the fastest and most. reliable out of the box on the K1.
Prusa slicer does not have K1 support at all.. Orca slicer does have K1 profile but speed and quality is bad. Galaxy slicer same thing. No profiles for Cura and the list goes on. All public K1 profiles online ARE SO BAD again simply compared to the stock Creality print slicer.
Would be possible to print say a black aircraft panel and then the top layer the printer prints white text below the switches etc
This was a great video. I was thinking about ordering the kc1 after wanting to do carbon. Seeing this is inspiring I can basically do what the x1 can do for 1/4 the price. What do you think of the k1c??
I print with PETG, so regular K1 is the best for me :)
I think, you can replace nozzles on the K1 if you need hard materials. So I do not see any benefits in K1C.
You can easily use the pause feature with orcaslicer. You should try it!
Beat me to it. Have to root the k1’s :) and use orca
I did. Default K1 profile on Orca nowhere near to quality and speed of Creality Print, as you can see I have GalaxySlicer open to preview print progress but I don't use it for slicing for the same reason.
And it adds M600 command not PAUSE. Again, you need to add M600 Macro on K1, so just many extra steps totally useless. I still have to find what is the purpose of rooting K1 and installing Mainsail. Haven't find a single useful function from doing that yet.
Thank you.
Thank you!!
i did all the steps unfortunately i couldnt find the option to export gcode evyrhing is greyed out
You can do this in cura by clicking the mouse button a few times. No gcode editing required. It has a filament change feature
wonder why using battery bank? is it use as a UPS ?
My printer is sitting in a balcony, so I would not have to hear or smell it. It’s running of solar power too.
I tried this last night on latest firmware. Not working for me
Never use retract...especially with the old extruder... small pieces of filament get broken and end up blocking it
Haven't had an issue using it for months. My K1 is the latest model though.
Yea the old one cloiged on me afte my 3rd print after retracting, hopefully had that 3 year warranty from canadacomputer gave me a updated one a day later, THanks for the info btw! @@MrTechcat
i would not call this easy, more like: can be done with some manual work and G-code edits.
when you haven't seen 'regular' way.. Rooting K1, installing mainsail, adding macros and using it with 3rd party slicer. :D
Inserting 'PAUSE' into my Gcode just caused a Print Failure :(
Are you using K1 / K1 Max with an updated FW? It definitely works and tested on multiple printers already.
likely in the wrong spot, but orca slicer is going to be your best bet since it's all availalbe in the GUI, no coding, and you can see the color change in the slicer
Or, you could use a 3D Chameleon, then you don’t have to manually change the filament
wouldnt it be better to retract and pause
That is not easy. Bambulab you can just color fill the area you want on the model.
yes, pretty easy, after paying +$600 more for the printer and addons, plus double for every branded overpriced filament after that. :)
The whole Creality K1 was $300 ONLY on a Holiday promo!
@@MrTechcat Gotta pay premium for carefree color changes! haha
You don't need to use name brand filaments for the AMS, works just fine with generic cheapo filament the lidar seems to do a pretty good job tweaking the flow ratio on its own.
@@intelli_mw I can make a whole video how Bambu is slow, expensive and you can't make anything about that. Though it takes less than $20 to make K1 print 3x faster and with higher quality over the Bambu P1/X1. The whole thing with the K1 you can put any parts you like and flash any FW for speed, quality or whatever you need.
Settle down here buddy.. No need to be so defensive. I thought we were talking about ease of use when doing color changes? Price, modification, and etc not part of this. I am sure a Subaru can run faster than a Lamborghini if you put in enough time and effort into it. But that's not the point. I am talking about ease of use out of the box. @@MrTechcat
@@intelli_mw K1 is faster out of the box already... but lets just pretend that both are as fast and easy to use out of the box.
Yet simply screwing a CHT nozzle to the K1 you can double your speed and QUALITY already. You don't even have a choice on propriety nozzles of bambu.
As 3D printing is not easy by nature. Easy is only printing all useless PLA toys from online.. until you need to make an actual custom part on your own.
I just came from your RUclips video titled "Slime 2.0 - Full Body Trackers for VR made on Creality K1"
It turns out that one of your links where you could download the "stl" is broken and I wanted to know if you have another one or if you could send me the file internally.