Surfing Pacific Beach, California (with one leg)

My name is Redmond Ramos- I run on new adventures.
Went out with the family on Christmas Eve to surf Pacific Beach, California,
The weather was so nice- I went out in board shorts. Much different than Christmas in Colorado last year.
I'm not a great surfer. I wouldn't even say I am a good surfer. But, as a below knee amputee- I'm pretty damn proud of how I surf.
Just because you aren't "great" at something does not mean you should give up. I'm a surfer. And I'm very bad at it lol.
Don't listen to other people talk trash about those daring enough to try new things.
Get out of your bubble and fail at everything you can :)
From competing in track- to competing on the Amazing Race, to competing in surfing (and proudly taking home last place lol) I can tell you that life is short- so don't make it boring.
I'm hoping to get more control by learning to turn / move up and down the wave face. Still been really struggling. I think a Part of this may be my board. I love my board- but watching videos has helped me see that it digs in very hard when I try a turn. I will be trying a different board soon.
Any day surfing is a great day.
The prosthetic I use is just an old fake foot that we glued a shoe sole on.
Thank you for watching!