How to reassemble and zero out the tension on a Singer 301: Singer Restoration Series part 24
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- Опубликовано: 1 фев 2025
- This video shows you how reassemble the tension assembly on a Singer 301 and then zero it out to factory settings.
This is the link to the video that shows you how to remove the tension assembly from a Singer 301:
• How to remove the tens...
Follow along as I disassemble and restore a Singer 301. In this series I will show you how to remove parts, clean, troubleshoot and then reassemble the 301. Here is the link to the full playlist:
• Full Singer 301 Restor...
Learn more about Sewing Machine Rehab at: www.sewingmach...
Look below for links to most of the products you will need:
Grease wick for your 301 motor: sewingmachiner...
Oil wicks for Singer 301: sewingmachiner...
The Singer Featherweight Shop sells some supplies you need for your 301: singer-feather...
List of supplies and links:
Various sized flat head screw drivers such as...
Chapman screwdrivers Kit No. 9600: amzn.to/47R4n7N
Craftsman Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver: amzn.to/3Ehii9o
Penetrating oil, I love Aerokroil by Kano: amzn.to/3R1a25h
Lily White Sewing Machine Oil: amzn.to/3Ej1O0F
Sew-Retro Sewing Machine Grease: singer-feather...
91% Isopropyl Alcohol: amzn.to/45tO7rv
Zymol Cleaner Wax: amzn.to/3P05c5o
Krud Kutter: amzn.to/3Ek2inh
Krud Kutter - The Must for Rust: amzn.to/3R2lKfR
Regular Cotton Swabs: amzn.to/3YW22nS
Pointy Cotton Swabs: amzn.to/3ECINXn
Old cotton t-shirts cut into pieces or other rags
Blue shop towels: amzn.to/45yO2D6
Sandwich bags (to keep parts together)
New Bed cushions for your 301: singer-feather...
New bobbin winding tire: singer-feather...
New 301 Drip Pad: singer-feather...
New LED lightbulb for your 301: singer-feather...
New motor brushes for your 301: singer-feather...
New electronic style foot control (foot control only for machines with separate power cord): amzn.to/3r2S9IB
New power cord: amzn.to/3EuNK4q
New electronic style foot control (for 301’s without separate foot control plug): amzn.to/45tsNCH
Feeler gauge for setting feed dog height and presser foot height: amzn.to/3YZJbbq
Thread tension meter: singer-feather...
Tweezers: amzn.to/45Os7r7
Several small artist paint brushes and a 1" chip brush (you can buy on Amazon but they are cheaper at stores like Walmart and Harbor Freight)
*As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
**As an Featherweight Shop Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
It's great to see a woman doing repair/resoration videos like this. Keep up the good work! 👍
Thank you! I am having so much fun!
It takes a woman to get down to details. I doubt if any man could explain it so well. Such joy to have a video that shows you step by step how to clean and reassemble this tricky part. Such a clever invention, the tension spring and I marvel at the engineering behind it. This is such a great series. Thank you!!
Thank you also to all the viewers who comment and give constructive advice. It adds to the pool of knowledge. Many thanks!
Wow, thank you!
So incredibly helpful. Thank you for explaining so clearly ❤
You're so welcome!
Great job. I even had the tool. Now I now how to use.
Great!
Thanks million...
Happy to share!
In my opinion, this is a GREAT tutorial on tension settings. I get so tired when I see these “experts” saying that 4 should be flush with the thumb nut, and threaded post. In MY opinion, zero SHOULD be zero, with the presser foot up, or down.
Agreed, zero is easier than trying to discern 4 being flush. Too much room for error I think. Thank you so much for watching and sharing your opinion! I appreciate it!
@@SewingMachineRehab You’re very welcome! Thank YOU for these wonderful tutorials! You’re very beautiful by the way!
I absolutely love your video's! You have helped me so much. I found me a 301A for $45!! Very Dirty. It had been stored by a granddaughter for years. Two parts less than $14. Your video's and poof it works & looks brand new!!! Ty
How exciting! I love hearing stories like this! I hope you enjoy sewing with your “new to you” 301A!
Thanks a million.
You bet!
watching this again to help with my latest tension assembly. This is a priceless video!! (( Maybe one or two more tension assemblies and I'll be able to do it without reviewing your video! ... Then... maybe not!))|
The more you do it, the easier it gets!
Hi again. On 0 tension is 25 and on 7 it’s off the charts. At least now I can get a reading. I unscrewed the outside piece one rotation.
Hi! It could be a number of things and it is a little hard for me to guess without seeing it. It sounds like you are screwing the nut on too far. When you have the tension set at 4 the nut should be about flush with the end of the stud. Check that and let me know if it is or not and then we can go from there!
@@SewingMachineRehab I loosened it a bit and that seems better. Between 0 and 9 tension is 15. At 4 it is 40.
Does the spring need to snap and if so why wouldn’t mine be snappy?
@@annabockis3344 if the spring isn’t snapping I would check to make sure that the inside of the spring has the “tail”. It is a straight piece of wire that runs down inside the spring. That tail catches into one if the sections of the tension stud and is what makes the spring have the snap. Do you see a tail inside your spring?
It is not flush with the end of the stud though. When flush tension is off charts again.
There is absolutely no bounce in my spring. I’m thinking I should replace it because I probably cannot zero without a decent spring.mis that correct? Awesome video. You took the fear out of removing that tension piece.
Hi! Check the center of the take up spring, if there isn't a little finger running down the inside center then it won't work properly. Let me know if that doesn't make sense. I don't have to replace the springs often but it does happen from time to time.
Thank you! Exactly what I needed because I forgot how to do it lol.
Ha! I have watched my own videos to help me remember something. So many models of machines out there it is easy to get them confused. I keep a notebook that I can reference quickly when I am adjusting certain things on different machines, it has been so helpful to do that!
Is this a good video on how to use the tension meter? I have one but I cannot figure it out. Thanks!
Hi again, I think it is but if you still have questions let me know and I will try to help!
Omgoodness Jen. I cannot get my tension spring to snap for love nor money. It is a brand new spring and I believe I had the snap once but when everything seemed to go wrong I removed the tension and some other parts to sort of try again. I’ve removed the tension mechanism x3 . Tension is way too tight no matter what number I put it on. Thanks for your help.
Hi, I got all of your emails and sent you my number. If you want to give me a call please do! Not sure if you are getting my replies.
I think I've figured out the root of that beehive spring/teacup controversy... When you have the washer with the curved "finger" it points toward you as you put it on the stud - but it also has a portion of that finger that is curved away from you (when viewed side on). If you put the beehive spring on "the teacup way" there is a little space available for the part of the curved finger that is curved towards the beehive spring. So for washers where there is no curve and the finger points straight up I think it really doesn't matter which way the beehive spring goes on because they don't need the extra space. What do you think?
As for your video it is lovely and clear - and so, so useful for videos like this to show how to zero out properly. Most people that do vids on tension units just show how to assemble it, buy leave out the finer details of how to make it work properly - and that's the thing that most people have trouble with when they're actually sewing! :-)
I think now I have to take it apart and look! I want to press the washer against the spring and see how it fits both ways. Won’t be able to for a few days but I will let you know if I find out anything mind blowing. You brought up a good point, thank you! Here is a question for you, have you dealt with aftermarket take up springs? They are not my favorite but sometimes they are the only option. I see in this video the one I used wasn’t coming down to rest on the finger….I may just need to set the stroke and that will fix it.
@@SewingMachineRehab No - I've never used the after-market springs but I have encountered that exact same problem with an original spring after I'd taken the tension unit apart on a 66 or 99 (I can't remember which of the two it was now - a 99 I think) and given them all a careful but thorough clean and polish. It seemed to be because there was no longer quite enough clearance for the spring through the path of its whole range of motion if I had the tension stud all the way in and thumbnut screwed onto the post enough for raising the presser bar to release tension on the discs satisfactorily. Which made it impossible to get a true "zeroing out" of my tension. Maddeningly the situation improved when I put the tension release washer on the wrong way - that is, finger pointing to the machine.
I couldn't live with a washer on the wrong way so tried all sorts of fixes. I thought that perhaps the tension thread guide wasn't sitting properly around that little protrusion it nestles around - but fiddling endlessly with that still didn't fix it and it was seated perfectly. In the end I got a nail that was the same diameter as the tension releasing pin and fashioned it into a replacement pin that was just a tad longer so I could install the tension stud slightly "out" of being fully-seated into the machine and still have the tension release pin work when I raised the foot. It didn't need much extra room - the sort of thing you'd measure with a couple of sheets of paper - so I guess it doesn't take much to hang up that check spring!
Anyway, that alleviated the problem but I've never been satisfied with it. It was more of a work-around than actually fixing the problem. I've hypothesised that crud in the machine before I cleaned it had built up over the years that somehow compensated for any wearing that would otherwise have narrowed clearances. Quite how that could actually work in practice I don't know - but it's hard to think of something else to explain why merely cleaning and polishing the tension unit would cause that spring to hang up!
I'd love to know if you come up with a different solution because it drove me round the twist for days. (It was a short trip to get there too!!) :-)
Good description like how u describe the way to place the 2 washer, I was confuse how to put that.
Hi there! I followed your full series and restored my 301. Thank you so much! I am having one issue-the thread is breaking after I sew about 2-3 inches. I have changed my needle, changed my thread. I am using a thread stand. The problem is still happening. Any ideas?
Hi there! Just wondering if you got to the root of your problem, I’m sorry for the delayed response. If it is still giving you trouble let me know and feel free to reach out to me at jen@sewingmachinerehab.com with videos or pictures of what is happening.
Hi! I am on this step but decided to plug it in and check everything before going further. The motor runs but sounds pretty loud. I even took the hand wheel off and ran it and when going fast, it has a high pitched noise. Is this the bearing? It turned freely but not as well as yours. Could I just oil it? I saw on vintage sewing machine garage to use sae30 oil. Should I try that?
I recently acquired a 301A and the pin was missing from the tension assembly. Can you tell me the length of that pin and should it have a flat edge on one and round on the other
Sorry, I didn't see this question. My measurements came in at 1 3/32". Yes one end is flattened. Hope that helps!
Hi Jen. My spring initially did not click and rolled all over so I replaced it. After a few tries it seemed to do what it should. I am finding though that at zero my tension is 25-30. Is that ok? I bought the handy little meter.
Hi! Sounds like maybe the little tail inside the spring was broken? And your tension sounds close, what happens if you move the little pin on the back of the number dial one hole to the left? Ultimately I would keep it however it works for you the best. If you are happy with that setting, I would leave it. Try testing it out at various stitch lengths on number 2 and 3 tension. If you are satisfied then you are good to go in my opinion.
Can you help me with a Singer Futura II 920? Especially the bobbin plate I pushed to far forward and it won't go back into place.
I haven’t worked on one before so I am not sure how the bobbin plate slides off. I think it pushes back towards the needle plate until it totally comes off. I hope you are able to figure it out!
Tip to polish the disks to a mirror finish after emery -use just use paper towel on a flat surface / glass add some metal polish, put the disk on the cloth and your fingers on top and that should help. The disk tension surfaces need to be flat to give constant tension. I just fixed a top tension on 28k from 1891 the old oil was like glue on all the parts.
They tend to get rusty if they are left for a time with cotton thread left in them, this will absorb dampness and hence the rust.
Waffle warning
I have one machine a UK 66k that has a grove in the tension discs, it must have seen a lot of cotton; also the is a groove in the needle side cover plate, I do wonder what they were sewing to make a grove in the metal plate (war time use for the 66K ?)
The UK 66k machine serial number suggest it was born in 1908 but I guess it must have gone back to the factory and been refurbished since it has (RAF decals I think they started in the 1930s). Also it has an unusual low bobbin winder mounted to the casting projection next to the stitch length turn screw.
Thanks for the Singer 301 videos, we have a 221K
I wonder what wore the groove in that 66k as well! If only the machines could talk!
Do you have a Video on the lever that moves the foot up and down. I was given a black 301 and it will not stay up. Just falls back down,
Hi! It could be as simple as the thumb screw on the top of the machine for the presser bar just isn’t screwed down tight enough. It also could be that the set screw for the presser bar isn’t tight enough. If that is the case then you will have to set the height of the presser bar when you tighten it down. Here is a link to my video on how to reinstall all those parts in that area, maybe if you watch it you can figure out what is going on. I hope it helps! How to install the presser bar and set the height on a Singer 301: Singer Restoration Series part 20
ruclips.net/video/aeeRT1BtrUI/видео.html
Hi! - I lost a lot of vision to Optic Neurities at the end of 2021. I didn't thik I could ever sew again but after reasearching, the slanted shank and smaller head of the 301 was a perfect match. I do quilting (straight line for now) but I do it a lot so I have to clean and oil my machine...a....lot. Withy my lower vision that is a long and tedious process for me. Lately, my machine seems to be a bit louder evan after cleaning/oiling. I think I narrowed it down to the tension unit as it kind of sounds like when you rub very dry hands together. So, using your other video I took the upper tension unit apart and the components were clean and smooth as a whistle. Either the machine wasn't used much or the guy I bought it from cleaned the unit. I don't think putting it back together will be problematic, but I'm wondering if al the cleaing, oiling, and maintenance of this fine machine is just going to be too much and too time conuming for my low vision. Just the simple task of oiling it takes me a very long time and before I know it, I've put way more than one drop at an oiling point. There's also no tech nearby to fix or do any of that for me. I know vintage machines are better quality and that you're a proponent of keeping them alive..I am too really. But going forward I just don't know if it will be realistic for me wiht my low vision to clean, oil, maintain, nad try to figure out anything that might go wrong. So be honest, as time goes by is the dirt, oiling, upkeep and so forth going to be really taxing for vision impairment?
@@lab2597 Hi again! I missed replying to this comment, so I apologize. I am not sure how hard it would be to maintain your machine with the vision impairment that you are describing. I am sorry that you are going through that, I can't imagine what it must be like for you. However, I want to encourage you in your endeavors to not let it stop you from doing things you enjoy. Are you able to have an assistant with you who could help you when you go over your machine for maintenance? Just to guide you and let you know if you are missing something. As far as the noise that you are experiencing, it is hard for me to say without seeing the machine. But, packed up lint can make a machine noisy. If you are sure it is coming from the tension unit, I would definitely need to see it to diagnose it. I also think that with time you will get used to all the places that require oiling and will be able to do it more by muscle memory. That would be my hope for you. I am wishing you all the best!
Hi! - Thank you for your reply and words of encouragement. I did end up taking the tension unit apart and the discs were clean as a whistle. It was easy to take apart and reassemble but unfortunately after it was back together, it wouldn't sew at all. I did the procedure several times and it just wouldn't sew. It was then that I realized fixing it would take more than I can do and there's noonne anywhere near me that can fix it. So..I ended up taking it Goodwill. 301s are terrific machines, it just wasn't going to work for me. I eded up getting a semi-industrial Juki that I can take to a tech if needed. They doo need cleaning and oiling like the 301 but only 4 holes on top and 2 holes on the bed. I just couldn't see those dark little holes and oiling points in the nose and underneath the 301...yes, it was a sad day. But again, thank you for your great videos and support!
my 401a has this type of tension set up, most 401's seem to have the nut with the set screw. interesting
Yes, that tiny little screw that is so easy to lose! Wonder if someone changed out part of the tension at some point…
Watching carefully. My 301 tension unit has a bad habit of slipping to zero as I sew. Argh!
Hi! I wonder if the tension stud has been bent together too much on the end? Email me at jen@sewingmachinerehab.com and I will explain further but you may need to gently spread the end of the tension stud apart a tiny bit so that the thumb screw fits better.
@ pried it open, then had to pinch it to get the thumb nut back on. Hope this fixes my problem. Thanks! I love its spunk and power!
Why so you laugh when you say "take up spring thread guard"?
I am not sure, some of the part names are so long, it must have made me laugh.
@@SewingMachineRehab I was just teasing.
Hi Jen! In this series you did not mention taking the bobbin case apart for cleaning, and reinstalling the b.c. tension spring… and how to get the tension correct on the b.c.
Is there a method for setting the tension on the bobbin case?
Hi! You are correct, I didn't do that. Looks like I need to make another video! :) I do disassemble all of my bobbin cases, sometimes those tiny springs and screws could use a good cleaning. Or the spring just needs replaced. As far as setting the tension, you can use the thread tension meter: singer-featherweight.com/products/bobbin-tension-meter/?aff=57 to check the tension or you can do the drop test. That is when you dangle the bobbin case by the thread and kind of treat the bobbin case like a yo-yo. You should have a little thread release from the bobbin but it shouldn't be so loose that it just keeps unwinding. I am not sure if that makes sense. The tension can be set to the same as the upper tension to start and then you can adjust to fit your needs. The screw you turn is the one closest to the cutout where the thread comes out of the bobbin case. Hope that helps!
@@SewingMachineRehab thank you, yes it made total sense! I appreciate all your help ❤️