Absolutely brilliant tutorial on cartridge alignment with some really good tips. The importance of getting the various adjustments right for high end reproduction makes absolute sense - particularly the vertical tracking angle which is often overlooked. Now we have the right technology with digital microscopes this can now be managed easily. The only area I would like to have seen more detail is setting the cartridge geometry at the various null points using a protractor. I watched the other Ortofon video on "What makes a cartridge good: moving magnet vs moving coil" and now appreciate why a high end MC cartridge is sonically better and why they cost more!
As I will be purchasing a new cartridge with either line contact or shibata stylus, this video has provided beneficial information. My current cartridge stylus is elliptical and the stylus assemblies of higher end cartridges demand careful alignment to realize their sonic benefits.
@@Ortofonofficial MR Ortofon how come you wouldnt use your flagship MC cartridges on your flagship Ortofon Tonearms from the late 50s and 60s? Thank you
I too have been a fan of Ortofon cartridges since 1987, when I purchased an X3-MC model. I had been using this cartridge up until about 3yrs ago. I had this cartridge mounted in a SME 3009 III S arm, running 2 grams TF. Believe it or not, the stylus showed hardly any wear after all these years. But, I figured that the damping of the stylus had deteriorated GRADUALLY. Since this is an MC design, I contacted Ortofon about having the stylus replaced. NO. It is TOO old. So I bought a new "orange" Ortofon (moving magnet) cartridge. I REALLY don't see a big difference in the sound quality between the "old" and the "new" cartridge. Maybe I am getting too old (pushing 80) and have been listening to the "squeaky" cell phones and the crappy flat-panel TVs to appreciate HIGH QUALITY sound! LOL
@lief Johannsen, I was with you until you used a mirror to set the azimuth. Although that is better than nothing, it is not the ideal way of setting the azimuth (so I have been told). There is a vinyl record that is designed precisely for azimuth alignment. Combined with an oscilloscope, you can dial in the alignment as near perfectly as possible. Perhaps you can elaborate on this? What I know is what my audio dealer showed me -- years ago, when their turntable guru dialed in my cartridge. He showed me the record (which I cannot remember who made it) and he showed me his oscilloscope. And I have heard other turntable experts (I believe one was Michael Fremer) caution against using a mirror when seeking out the best azimuth setting. Very good video!
A tip, from years ago, is to shine an "Anglepoise" light into the perspex cover for a while before playing, and during playing, so that the cartridge reaches a slightly more than room temperature. This increases the compliance / flexibility of the cantilever rubber suspension so that it can pick up more slightly more low level detail from the groove. Obviously this would not work with a LED bulb. I have to say, though, that high end turntables have now become something of a fetish in themselves rather than simply a means of accessing music which is probably best done via high res streaming. A top rate DAC is essential though. This video confirms this.
Buongiorno Signor JOHANNSEN. La Ringrazio per aver fatto questo video sull' installazione della testina sul braccio. Ottimo lavoro. W ORTOFON 😁😁😁🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️
I have 15 of the Ortofon 2 m Red and this is the best cartridge that I have ever used I love the bass and high end that this cartridge delivers I also have 1 blue great sounding thank you for making these cartridges
Superb explanation and the use of huge models to illustrate your fabulous explanation was inspired. Thank you! I understand how, and why, I need to be setting up my TT.
You can never adequately align azimuth by eye even using beam protractors or mirrors. Why? Because not all styli are plumb 90 degrees to the cantilever. The only way to do it properly is to test the phonostage output for each channel on a scope using a 1khz test tone from a good test LP. Get it within 20mV channel balance at output is possible with small azimuth adjustments and the audible improvements can be an eye opening experience. The vta angle is far less important. Tonearm level is fine for most. Best low average distortion setting for anti skate and accurate azimuth together with fine vtf adjustment are by far the most important factors.
@@ReferenceFidelityComponents Perhaps. But how many people in the general population have ever used an oscilloscope? That's a small, small minority. At least the Fozgometer is super easy to use, and coming with instructions directly related to using the various tracks on the Analogue Productions test LP.
@@MrChristerBerg actually, modern digital scopes are pretty easy to use and anyone capable of setting a cart up can certainly use both a scope and use a test lp. Whether some lack the confidence is another matter but on average it takes me no more than 15 minutes to show most clients how to do it. I understand that it seems daunting but try it and see for yourself, it really isn’t that difficult. Convenience is easier to market though, and most may pay more for a more convenient solution.
I'm willing to bet there are more people comfortable with using and generally familiar with oscilloscopes than there are people who are adjusting azimuth on their record player. To say someone who cares enough to go through this level of detail calibrating vinyl playback, but suddenly stop at oscilloscope is nuts.
Great 👍 I always love Ortofon cartridge as I have been using them since 2003 Anti skating was useful and I think I was missing in that part now I have better technical skills after watching your video. Thanks
Been messing with turntables for over 50 years and have been paying attention to everything mentioned here for years. The only thing I might add and I could be wrong but when it comes down to VTA I would think the angle changes slightly once the record starts spinning due to the friction and any slight warp etc. Some might think this attention to detail is over the top but if you consider what your album collection is worth why not set things up right. It’s not like you have to recheck these things weekly. Some times the smallest adjustment will make a difference you weren’t expecting. 34:42
It was interesting to note that the cartridge manufacturer/designer is far less neurotic than most audiophiles. (Although the precision of the SME V does make overhang / lateral alignment a lot easier.)
I like the Dane - often they are very sensible… I went to Denmark and found a lot of it to be very sensible. Indeed I have (of course) the Ortofon Concorde which I like a lot... Oh yes.
Thank you for the video. I am sorry but I did not understand the 90 degree measurement of the diamond. Which parts do us as measurement points. The tip and the upper middle of the diamond?
great explanation, the usb microscope you are using gives terrific pictures.....is this one in the 1000 $ range....or are there cheaper option that will do the job? i had poor experience with those 20$ china usb microscopes you find on ebay....thats why i am asking ....how much should one invest do get such quality picture? thanks a lot!
very informative. Learned a lot, thank you. I am concerned I can't find data on the actual "needle" angle, outward placement to it's cartridge? I have a Ortofon MC Windfeld, and whether my wife/cats/kids went to my den, my cartridge backside hits before the needle. I am concerned about the emphasis of perpendicular tone arm to platter, vs my situation. I can either lift the tonearm completely (TURNTABLE: PROJECT EVO 12). OR.... is there something to moving the actual needle away from its own cartridge. Due to expensive, I am stuck and haven't moved either way.. very quiet den... :( If someone is an expert or of Mr. Johannsen could talk about the situations in moving or not the needle in the cartridge, which would be a good topic I am sure, but selfishly, if I could get an expert's "fix" to my predicament. Very much appreciated.
Nice deck!! Personally I'd have to sit down. I passed up a Thorens TD 125 w/ an SME 3009 arm for 400 bucks just because it had the fixed head shell. I am still kicking my self in the ass. What an incredible video. All said, is there any wonder why C.D.s became so popular with the "Mass Listeners"...?
about the Azymuth please tell to the people that in a fixed tonearm you can put spacers under the headshell but the best thing to do when you have that kind of issue is to adjust the tonearm base attachment because we have a disalignment on the base of the tonearm facing the platter face, after that you'll never have to worry about azymuth, different things are on a adjustable tonearm example a SME or tp4 removable headshell attachment. thanks for this accurate guide.
Nicely done sir. Assuming of course that you can afford to own this wonderful equipment, reach into your pocket one more time and PAY an expert to do this for you! 😀
I don't necessarily agree without qualification. You'll at least have to find an expert who actually is an expert, and they are harder to find than you might think. I've been in this hobby for a few decades, and the horror stories about people charging customers for their incompetence are too many to count. Only by taking the trouble to learn a little bit for yourself will you be able to know who to trust. And let's face it, it's not that difficult. It just takes a small effort to learn, and then just taking your time to get it right.
A test record and a cheap digital microscope from Amazon snapping a photo with you’re phone and a plastic protractor is all it really takes . How many people even check SRA or VTA ? I know I never have . I’ve never used a test record to set my anti skate level either . Just snatched the number value to the VTF . After watching this it kinda makes me want to get that test record , although there’s more to setting up you’re anti skate then that . There’s a compromise on so many different aspects and ways to get to that best all around setting . Hell , my setup sounds killer . Why mess with it ? My Ortofon is 42 years old and still sounds killer
I may be wrong, but as soon as we change the record, the raking angle is gonna change as well. Vinyl records tend to have different thickness (120g, 140g, 180g), not counting the deviation, so the raking angle will never be perfect and it's always an estimate. And no record is perfectly flat, so the raking angle will change across the same record tons of times.
I see people talk about raising or lowering the VTA on a tonearm, But I never hear that you could instead change the platter mat to one that’s thicker or thinner. That’s what I did when I got a cartridge which was much taller than my previous one (no VTA on my turntable). That would work the same way wouldn’t it?
Knew all this after 30 years in the game but was shocked to hear that the "worlds best" SME5 arm doesn't have azimuth adjustment. He also seems reluctant to raise or lower the arm at the base to get the headshell level with the platter.. With a cartridge costing £2,000 like this one, I,d always remove the arm and work upside down to install the cartridge.
Why did you cut a straight line in the edge of the record when setting the VTA? Also what program did you use to measure the exact measurement of your VTA angle?
Hello. First of all, thank you for your time and your video. I have a question. It seems that you use a Shibata needle and the angle is measured with respect to the flat back face of the needle. But with an elliptical needle (OM 10 or 20), how would we measure the angle? I had always taken as a reference the imaginary line that would pass through the center of the needle body, and not its back face. Please help me. Thanks a lot
For the antiskating setting, using a test record with high modulation tracks actually isn't the best method. This method will always result in too much antiskating. The skating force is mainly dependant on 2 parameters: stylus pressure and modulation of the track. And modulation plays a big part in it Because the modulation of a test track is way higher than what music on a record will ever achieve, the resulting antiskating will be way to high. I have a set of orsonic side force checkers that will measure the correct amount of skating/antiskating (they basically work as a force balance), and my experience is that when measuring skatingforce at 70µm, you're about 0,5 (on the antiskate knob) too high compared to music with high modulation (for instance 80's pop music on a dmm cut record) and up to 0,75 too high on the antiskating knob compared to normal modulation (for instance 70's laquer cut pop music records). Obviously it depends on the tonearm, but my experience is that using the numbers on the dial/ the manufacturers settings are more representative for acutal played music than using a test record with modulon grooves 50µm or higher.
I normally set anti skate to a nominal 75% of VTF and then just dial it in by ear using well known records. I just listen for the focus / solidity of the stereo image.
@@tzed2509a real expert would have used an orsonic side force checker or similar tool, and adressed the fact that the skating force is highly dependant on the friction foce of the stylus on the record which is in itself highly dependant on the smount of modulation. Even James Kogen (later CEO of Shure) used a similar device in his publications on antiskating. Any expert would know this and address this in his video😁 And it doesn't take an expert to acknowledge that a groove modulation of 60um is way louder than any music on record, let alone 80um. The loudest part in music on a record you'll ever come across is more akin to ~40um.
Enjoyed this video! Do you happen to have a brand name for the usb microscope you're using as it looks to be much nicer than the million or so listed on the web that don't work well? Thanks!
I'm old school, Shure V-15 matched to a removable head shell. I like being able to do the cartridge installation off the arm, and with the stylus removed. Also, how do you replace the stylus on this cartridge, if it doesn't come off?
Thanks for the great video. Very informative and detailed. I have a question regarding the VTA. Is it absolutely necessary for the arm to be parallel with the surface? or is the angle itself the target. I have a Jeclo arm that sits very high and I had to put 2 Mats on the platter and it is still not parallel.
Hi Leif Johannsen. Fantastic exxplainment and very useful video, I have two questions. 1. My cartridge is a Ortofon Quintet Black, my tonearm is a SME 309 and turntable is a Linn Sondek LP12. When I am testing at 70 MHz or higer, the sound is slightly out of balance, I have tried to change the Anti-skating in many ways, but it does not help much - is the Quintet not able to play the 70 Hz clean ? - the Azimut is ok and also the stylus angle, haven't got a microscope though.. 2. Which turntable are you using in your listening room in the video ? Looks quite advanced 😊 Best Regards Flemming Ovesen, Holstebro-Denmark.
I got a 2m blue replacement stylus, and i found that the cantilever rake angle was to flat, the plastic body almost contacted the record.. i finaly decided that i would risk braking the thing, i carefully adjusted the cantilever angle very slightly. Then it could track the groove without noise.
Well done, clear and concise. Having an SME (312S) myself, this pretty much covers my needs. It would be useful for many (with other tonearms) to see horizontal alignment of a tonearm with slots for cartridge mounting screws, though (using a protractor). Regarding SRA/VTA, would you recommend test record and IMD measurements to really make the most of it? Especially relavant with equipment of this calibre.. Regarding azimuth, I see you align the stylus. But this leaves me with a few additional questions. There is the issue of the stylus itself, and that is well covered. But there is also the issue of the coil alignment relative to the groove. This will influence channel separation or crosstalk. I assume with a cartridge in this price range, the housing, stylus, and coils can be assumed to be perfectly aligned with each other, and aligning one aligns the others. I would like to hear your views on crosstalk measurements in azimuth adjustments?
Great explanation Mr. Johansen, thank you! I checked my current cartridge of a Koetsu Black and found out that the cut is different. It seems like it needs a more cantilever angle so that the line surface is 90 degree. Can it be or is it just my mistake? 😅
My understanding is that skating is more of an issue as you approach the inner grooves of the LP. That being the case, maximizing high level inner groove tracking would seem, by definition, to impair performance in the first part of the LP. I have found that to be the case in my own setups and listening. Clarity in the earlier part can be lost by over pursuing any losses in the inner grooves.
Hello, I was happy to exchange the Ortofon 2m Blue portable gram for 2m Black. Just buy a new tip and replace the black one with a blue one, or do you have to buy the whole head? Well thank you.
One thing bugged me: how do you have perfect lateral alignment just with the distance from the spindle to the arm pivot and dont take in account the cartridge size and stylus land position? SME tonearms allow adjustment back and forward to fine tune where the stylus will be on the record, they even ship with a carboard for that... What am i missing on this?
Thank you for the question, Ricardo! On this tonearm the lateral alignment is adjusted during the installation of the tonearm, the cardboard and the fine tuning is meant to be used at this stage. You cannot adjust placement of the cartridge forwards or backwards on the headshell, and as such the lateral alignment doesn’t change.
@@Ortofonofficial Doesn’t this presume that different styli have the exact same overall length from the tone arm pivot? For example, are all cartridges manufactured with the exact same difference between the mounting screws and where the stylus contacts the record? I would think not. If not, that means the overhang would be either correct or incorrect depending on which cartridge is used. My tone arm head shell is slotted and I set the appropriate overhang. Since the SME V head shell isn’t slotted, wouldn’t the overhang possibly be incorrect with no way to adjust for this?
The SME needs to be repositioned by loosening the screws on the pillar and move it in the right direction using the special tool that you put in the back. With the sme alignment protractor this is very easy. The distance between stylus and screwholes is fifferent for every cartridge and at the ortofon site is a list withe these measurements for all their cartridges. For vta their is also the tool to change the height of the arm. I guess they did not know where they left these tools...(and the manual)
And a usefull tip for setting the arm horizontal. Use a green laser crossbeam. First set the arm horizontal and than change the height and with the laser it is easy to measure the different settings.
also if you have to move cartridge forward or back the tracking force will change. i always do my geometry first and when everything is set i set my tracking force.
Just bought this record, have a technics sl1210mk2(from February 1988) and 2M bronze on technics original headshell. Is there any specific way to adjust this setup?
Why don't cartridge manufactures allow for the 92 degrees cutting angle? We're told to align with the arm parallel to the record surface which usually is 90 degrees SRA. To get 92 degees you have to raise the rear of the tonearm approx 8mm.
I’m watching the video at approximately 26.25 minutes. Can you or someone explain how the needle gets dragged to the center of the record? Is there some force in the tonearm itself moving the arm towards the middle of the record? or is it the needle sitting in the groove and the spiraling affect of the groove is actually pushing the needle towards the center, not dragging.
I went through all that in the 1980s, it's a damn site easier to put a CD in a tray and press a button and relax knowing you're not listening to tracking distortion which is unavoidable with turntables no matter how carefully you set them up. Plus you'll get the full dynamic range from the recording which you'll never get from vinyl.
good video but one question, I understand the azimuth and vertical tracking angle are important for this Replicant needle but is it equal important if we use a spherical or elliptical needle?
Why not clean the contacts first. Amazing tutorial but I’d say its worth doing a clean even of brand new wires and contacts. Only missing thing i thought of through the whole vid. Ortofon rules.
Looking at the microscope picture at 21:09, it looks like the angle is measured to the back edge of the stylus, not the centerline. This is very surprising to me. Is this standard for all cartridges?
As for the cantilever angle and stylus rake angle, the shell of my old Technics SL-2900 allows to move the cartridge forward or backwards until you manage to get the optimum angle. I bought a Nagaoka cartridge and its shell is not compatible with the tone arm of the SL-2900, for I couldn't get the correct adjustment. So I acquired a new Technics shell and the problem was solved. The difference in audio quality is immense when the cantilever angle and stylus rake angle are not correct.
Holding the record by the playing surface ? Tonearm should be moved by a nudge sideways & never gripped ? Nevertheless great explanation of correct setup .
Very clear demonstration thank you! Is there an alternative method to check the correct set-up of the SRA of your replicant stylus without using a digital microscope etc?
Thank you for the nice feedback! Regarding your question: While there exist products that help you approximate this measure by eye, the only way to be certain is through a microscope. Even just a few degrees can make a difference.
That's a vacuum hold down table. Unless the record is held down to the platter your VTA adjustment will be off. VTA is always adjusted be ear. You also didn't appear to optimize the overhang.
Over the years , I have learned. 1/ Don't bother with Mc cartridges, too delicate and involves special phono stage 2/ Detachable headshell is much easier to deal with 3/ Accept with a new cartridge that for approx 40 hours , it will sound strained 4/ A magic eraser sponge dragged back to front gently is the best way to clean a stylus 5/ Do not wet clean records, just use a dust brush 6/ when it comes to 2nd hand records , do not buy them if they have grease or gunk on them. Check vinyl with spotlight for scratches or warps 7/ Tracking too light is not good but go by listening 8/ Set up of record deck , quality of deck, phono stage is important 9 Vinyl can be a lot of hassle , thank goodness cd was invented
ORTOFON FF15 E MK2 the manual cartridge diagram states G at top with stylus bottom of diagram, blue top right, white bottom right and green top left, red bottom left? Is that correct, can anyone answer?
Hello, I am planning to replace the Ortofon 2m Blue cartrige and replace it with a 2m Black. Is it enough to buy a spare 2m Black tip and replace it with a 2m Blue one, or do I need to buy a complete cartrige and switch the wiring? Thanks for advice.
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
I wish I had recordings of Mr. Johannsen describing all things I need to learn in life.
This is by far the best explanation I ever heard about setting up the cartridge. Thanks a lot!
Have you seen fremer do it at home? Recomended👍 this is also Great tho, No question
We should keep this videos and archive them for our children - all Leif's videos - the best thing about how it works that I've ever seen.
My opinion is that these videos are priceless.
Excellent.
Absolutely brilliant tutorial on cartridge alignment with some really good tips.
The importance of getting the various adjustments right for high end reproduction makes absolute sense - particularly the vertical tracking angle which is often overlooked.
Now we have the right technology with digital microscopes this can now be managed easily.
The only area I would like to have seen more detail is setting the cartridge geometry at the various null points using a protractor.
I watched the other Ortofon video on "What makes a cartridge good: moving magnet vs moving coil" and now appreciate why a high end MC cartridge is sonically better and why they cost more!
Mr. Johansson. The finest setup video I've ever seen. Thank you, my friend!
Brilliantly done! I will follow these exact steps with my 2M Bronze.
How did it go?
As I will be purchasing a new cartridge with either line contact or shibata stylus, this video has provided beneficial information. My current cartridge stylus is elliptical and the stylus assemblies of higher end cartridges demand careful alignment to realize their sonic benefits.
Very important lesson! I am a big fan of Ortofon cartridges since 40 years.I love how they reproduce the music.
Congratulations!
Thank you 🙏🏼
Ortofon was my go to cartridge in the early 80's a VMS 20 on an Ariston RD 40 & Mission 774 LC arm combination.
@@Ortofonofficial MR Ortofon how come you wouldnt use your flagship MC cartridges on your flagship Ortofon Tonearms from the late 50s and 60s?
Thank you
@@maxsavage3998You think tonearm technology peaked in the 1960s?
I too have been a fan of Ortofon cartridges since 1987, when I purchased an X3-MC model. I had been using this cartridge up until about 3yrs ago. I had this cartridge mounted in a SME 3009 III S arm, running 2 grams TF. Believe it or not, the stylus showed hardly any wear after all these years. But, I figured that the damping of the stylus had deteriorated GRADUALLY. Since this is an MC design, I contacted Ortofon about having the stylus replaced. NO. It is TOO old. So I bought a new "orange" Ortofon (moving magnet) cartridge. I REALLY don't see a big difference in the sound quality between the "old" and the "new" cartridge. Maybe I am getting too old (pushing 80) and have been listening to the "squeaky" cell phones and the crappy flat-panel TVs to appreciate HIGH QUALITY sound! LOL
Many compliments to Mr. Leif Johannsen, after many videos i think this is the best and well done on how to set up the cartridge.
@lief Johannsen,
I was with you until you used a mirror to set the azimuth.
Although that is better than nothing, it is not the ideal way of setting the azimuth (so I have been told).
There is a vinyl record that is designed precisely for azimuth alignment. Combined with an oscilloscope, you can dial in the alignment as near perfectly as possible.
Perhaps you can elaborate on this?
What I know is what my audio dealer showed me -- years ago, when their turntable guru dialed in my cartridge.
He showed me the record (which I cannot remember who made it) and he showed me his oscilloscope.
And I have heard other turntable experts (I believe one was Michael Fremer) caution against using a mirror when seeking out the best azimuth setting.
Very good video!
A tip, from years ago, is to shine an "Anglepoise" light into the perspex cover for a while before playing, and during playing, so that the cartridge reaches a slightly more than room temperature. This increases the compliance / flexibility of the cantilever rubber suspension so that it can pick up more slightly more low level detail from the groove. Obviously this would not work with a LED bulb. I have to say, though, that high end turntables have now become something of a fetish in themselves rather than simply a means of accessing music which is probably best done via high res streaming. A top rate DAC is essential though.
This video confirms this.
Absolutely the best record player I've seen ever he gose in every detail by detail,it makes my record player/turntable look like toy one 😮..........
Superb,clearest most concise video and information I've seen on the subject.
Bravo 💙👍
Thank you, Mark!
Amazing video, i am just venturing into the world of audiophilia, and this has answered so many questions, thank you.
Thank you for high school instruction manual of cartridge calibration with microscope.
Buongiorno Signor JOHANNSEN. La Ringrazio per aver fatto questo video sull' installazione della testina sul braccio. Ottimo lavoro. W ORTOFON 😁😁😁🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
I have 15 of the Ortofon 2 m Red and this is the best cartridge that I have ever used I love the bass and high end that this cartridge delivers I also have 1 blue great sounding thank you for making these cartridges
Many thanks for explaining how it should be done in detail.
He must be loaded and very comfortable,to buy this state-of-the-art record player!!!
Tonarmjustage Top
Wonderful to see the precision procedure. Very good explanations. Thank You very much.
Superb explanation and the use of huge models to illustrate your fabulous explanation was inspired. Thank you! I understand how, and why, I need to be setting up my TT.
for anti skating, i use a trick to make it easy. use a disk record in mono. when image is centered, antiskating is set
Woa !!, thank you for such a great master class, the best video and explanation so far. Congrats !!
You can never adequately align azimuth by eye even using beam protractors or mirrors. Why? Because not all styli are plumb 90 degrees to the cantilever. The only way to do it properly is to test the phonostage output for each channel on a scope using a 1khz test tone from a good test LP. Get it within 20mV channel balance at output is possible with small azimuth adjustments and the audible improvements can be an eye opening experience. The vta angle is far less important. Tonearm level is fine for most. Best low average distortion setting for anti skate and accurate azimuth together with fine vtf adjustment are by far the most important factors.
Many people don’t have an oscilloscope, obviously. The Fozgometer is a reasonable substitute, although it’s not inexpensive, either ($400)…
@@MrChristerBerg That's the thing, as a decent digital scope can be had for half that price these days.
@@ReferenceFidelityComponents Perhaps. But how many people in the general population have ever used an oscilloscope? That's a small, small minority. At least the Fozgometer is super easy to use, and coming with instructions directly related to using the various tracks on the Analogue Productions test LP.
@@MrChristerBerg actually, modern digital scopes are pretty easy to use and anyone capable of setting a cart up can certainly use both a scope and use a test lp. Whether some lack the confidence is another matter but on average it takes me no more than 15 minutes to show most clients how to do it. I understand that it seems daunting but try it and see for yourself, it really isn’t that difficult. Convenience is easier to market though, and most may pay more for a more convenient solution.
I'm willing to bet there are more people comfortable with using and generally familiar with oscilloscopes than there are people who are adjusting azimuth on their record player. To say someone who cares enough to go through this level of detail calibrating vinyl playback, but suddenly stop at oscilloscope is nuts.
Great 👍 I always love Ortofon cartridge as I have been using them since 2003
Anti skating was useful and I think I was missing in that part now I have better technical skills after watching your video. Thanks
Been messing with turntables for over 50 years and have been paying attention to everything mentioned here for years. The only thing I might add and I could be wrong but when it comes down to VTA I would think the angle changes slightly once the record starts spinning due to the friction and any slight warp etc.
Some might think this attention to detail is over the top but if you consider what your album collection is worth why not set things up right. It’s not like you have to recheck these things weekly. Some times the smallest adjustment will make a difference you weren’t expecting. 34:42
It was interesting to note that the cartridge manufacturer/designer is far less neurotic than most audiophiles. (Although the precision of the SME V does make overhang / lateral alignment a lot easier.)
I like the Dane - often they are very sensible… I went to Denmark and found a lot of it to be very sensible. Indeed I have (of course) the Ortofon Concorde which I like a lot... Oh yes.
Thank you for the video. I am sorry but I did not understand the 90 degree measurement of the diamond. Which parts do us as measurement points. The tip and the upper middle of the diamond?
Excellent video. Great work.
Covered ALL the bases...well done
The modern design of their cartridges is so slick and futuristic looking. I like it so much
And yet it has it's beginnings in the 19th century. Very old technology.
great explanation, the usb microscope you are using gives terrific pictures.....is this one in the 1000 $ range....or are there cheaper option that will do the job? i had poor experience with those 20$ china usb microscopes you find on ebay....thats why i am asking ....how much should one invest do get such quality picture? thanks a lot!
Very nicely explained. Great video! Thanks for sharing.. Cheers..
very informative. Learned a lot, thank you. I am concerned I can't find data on the actual "needle" angle, outward placement to it's cartridge? I have a Ortofon MC Windfeld, and whether my wife/cats/kids went to my den, my cartridge backside hits before the needle. I am concerned about the emphasis of perpendicular tone arm to platter, vs my situation. I can either lift the tonearm completely (TURNTABLE: PROJECT EVO 12). OR.... is there something to moving the actual needle away from its own cartridge. Due to expensive, I am stuck and haven't moved either way.. very quiet den... :( If someone is an expert or of Mr. Johannsen could talk about the situations in moving or not the needle in the cartridge, which would be a good topic I am sure, but selfishly, if I could get an expert's "fix" to my predicament. Very much appreciated.
Perfectly done, many thanks for it!
So this leaves out the most challenging parts because of the very specific compatibility of this gear and cartridge
Nice deck!! Personally I'd have to sit down. I passed up a Thorens TD 125 w/ an SME 3009 arm for 400 bucks just because it had the fixed head shell. I am still kicking my self in the ass. What an incredible video. All said, is there any wonder why C.D.s became so popular with the "Mass Listeners"...?
How do you find the right cartridge tonearm match? Great show and tell! Thank you.
about the Azymuth please tell to the people that in a fixed tonearm you can put spacers under the headshell but the best thing to do when you have that kind of issue is to adjust the tonearm base attachment because we have a disalignment on the base of the tonearm facing the platter face, after that you'll never have to worry about azymuth, different things are on a adjustable tonearm example a SME or tp4 removable headshell attachment. thanks for this accurate guide.
Nicely done sir. Assuming of course that you can afford to own this wonderful equipment, reach into your pocket one more time and PAY an expert to do this for you! 😀
He is the expert. He's a cartridge designer for Ortofon!
doing it yourself helps you learn
@@fredbissnette3104 Do at home what Mr. Johannsen is demonstrating? It's also good to have a sense of humor...
I don't necessarily agree without qualification. You'll at least have to find an expert who actually is an expert, and they are harder to find than you might think. I've been in this hobby for a few decades, and the horror stories about people charging customers for their incompetence are too many to count.
Only by taking the trouble to learn a little bit for yourself will you be able to know who to trust.
And let's face it, it's not that difficult. It just takes a small effort to learn, and then just taking your time to get it right.
A test record and a cheap digital microscope from Amazon snapping a photo with you’re phone and a plastic protractor is all it really takes . How many people even check SRA or VTA ? I know I never have . I’ve never used a test record to set my anti skate level either . Just snatched the number value to the VTF . After watching this it kinda makes me want to get that test record , although there’s more to setting up you’re anti skate then that . There’s a compromise on so many different aspects and ways to get to that best all around setting . Hell , my setup sounds killer . Why mess with it ? My Ortofon is 42 years old and still sounds killer
I may be wrong, but as soon as we change the record, the raking angle is gonna change as well. Vinyl records tend to have different thickness (120g, 140g, 180g), not counting the deviation, so the raking angle will never be perfect and it's always an estimate. And no record is perfectly flat, so the raking angle will change across the same record tons of times.
I see people talk about raising or lowering the VTA on a tonearm, But I never hear that you could instead change the platter mat to one that’s thicker or thinner. That’s what I did when I got a cartridge which was much taller than my previous one (no VTA on my turntable). That would work the same way wouldn’t it?
Those are some serious equipment
Knew all this after 30 years in the game but was shocked to hear that the "worlds best" SME5 arm doesn't have azimuth adjustment. He also seems reluctant to raise or lower the arm at the base to get the headshell level with the platter.. With a cartridge costing £2,000 like this one, I,d always remove the arm and work upside down to install the cartridge.
Great video, helps a lot.thanks😊
Love this! Great cart and video!
Why did you cut a straight line in the edge of the record when setting the VTA? Also what program did you use to measure the exact measurement of your VTA angle?
Perfekt erklärt! Vielen Dank!
Hello. First of all, thank you for your time and your video. I have a question. It seems that you use a Shibata needle and the angle is measured with respect to the flat back face of the needle. But with an elliptical needle (OM 10 or 20), how would we measure the angle? I had always taken as a reference the imaginary line that would pass through the center of the needle body, and not its back face. Please help me. Thanks a lot
For the antiskating setting, using a test record with high modulation tracks actually isn't the best method.
This method will always result in too much antiskating.
The skating force is mainly dependant on 2 parameters: stylus pressure and modulation of the track. And modulation plays a big part in it
Because the modulation of a test track is way higher than what music on a record will ever achieve, the resulting antiskating will be way to high. I have a set of orsonic side force checkers that will measure the correct amount of skating/antiskating (they basically work as a force balance), and my experience is that when measuring skatingforce at 70µm, you're about 0,5 (on the antiskate knob) too high compared to music with high modulation (for instance 80's pop music on a dmm cut record) and up to 0,75 too high on the antiskating knob compared to normal modulation (for instance 70's laquer cut pop music records).
Obviously it depends on the tonearm, but my experience is that using the numbers on the dial/ the manufacturers settings are more representative for acutal played music than using a test record with modulon grooves 50µm or higher.
Interesting
I normally set anti skate to a nominal 75% of VTF and then just dial it in by ear using well known records. I just listen for the focus / solidity of the stereo image.
You have to love the confidence of a man telling an expert that they're doing it wrong.
@@tzed2509a real expert would have used an orsonic side force checker or similar tool, and adressed the fact that the skating force is highly dependant on the friction foce of the stylus on the record which is in itself highly dependant on the smount of modulation.
Even James Kogen (later CEO of Shure) used a similar device in his publications on antiskating.
Any expert would know this and address this in his video😁
And it doesn't take an expert to acknowledge that a groove modulation of 60um is way louder than any music on record, let alone 80um.
The loudest part in music on a record you'll ever come across is more akin to ~40um.
Enjoyed this video! Do you happen to have a brand name for the usb microscope you're using as it looks to be much nicer than the million or so listed on the web that don't work well? Thanks!
I'm old school, Shure V-15 matched to a removable head shell. I like being able to do the cartridge installation off the arm, and with the stylus removed. Also, how do you replace the stylus on this cartridge, if it doesn't come off?
Thanks for the great video. Very informative and detailed. I have a question regarding the VTA. Is it absolutely necessary for the arm to be parallel with the surface? or is the angle itself the target. I have a Jeclo arm that sits very high and I had to put 2 Mats on the platter and it is still not parallel.
Great video
Hi Leif Johannsen. Fantastic exxplainment and very useful video, I have two questions.
1. My cartridge is a Ortofon Quintet Black, my tonearm is a SME 309 and turntable is a Linn Sondek LP12. When I am testing at 70 MHz or higer, the sound is slightly out of balance, I have tried to change the Anti-skating in many ways, but it does not help much - is the Quintet not able to play the 70 Hz clean ? - the Azimut is ok and also the stylus angle, haven't got a microscope though..
2. Which turntable are you using in your listening room in the video ? Looks quite advanced 😊
Best Regards
Flemming Ovesen, Holstebro-Denmark.
I have a Quintet Blue and it can track at 70µm with a well setup arm but not at 80µm.
I got a 2m blue replacement stylus, and i found that the cantilever rake angle was to flat, the plastic body almost contacted the record.. i finaly decided that i would risk braking the thing, i carefully adjusted the cantilever angle very slightly.
Then it could track the groove without noise.
Fantastic. Thank you.
The digital microscope cracked me up. I was a Disc Jockey during the 1970's. We did not use microscopes to set up a turntable. K.I.S.S.
Well done, clear and concise.
Having an SME (312S) myself, this pretty much covers my needs. It would be useful for many (with other tonearms) to see horizontal alignment of a tonearm with slots for cartridge mounting screws, though (using a protractor).
Regarding SRA/VTA, would you recommend test record and IMD measurements to really make the most of it? Especially relavant with equipment of this calibre..
Regarding azimuth, I see you align the stylus. But this leaves me with a few additional questions. There is the issue of the stylus itself, and that is well covered. But there is also the issue of the coil alignment relative to the groove. This will influence channel separation or crosstalk. I assume with a cartridge in this price range, the housing, stylus, and coils can be assumed to be perfectly aligned with each other, and aligning one aligns the others. I would like to hear your views on crosstalk measurements in azimuth adjustments?
Great explanation Mr. Johansen, thank you!
I checked my current cartridge of a Koetsu Black and found out that the cut is different. It seems like it needs a more cantilever angle so that the line surface is 90 degree. Can it be or is it just my mistake? 😅
My understanding is that skating is more of an issue as you approach the inner grooves of the LP. That being the case, maximizing high level inner groove tracking would seem, by definition, to impair performance in the first part of the LP. I have found that to be the case in my own setups and listening. Clarity in the earlier part can be lost by over pursuing any losses in the inner grooves.
Absolutely correct. That's why we use a protractor; its the best compromise (this is all a compromise)
Hello, I was happy to exchange the Ortofon 2m Blue portable gram for 2m Black. Just buy a new tip and replace the black one with a blue one, or do you have to buy the whole head? Well thank you.
One thing bugged me: how do you have perfect lateral alignment just with the distance from the spindle to the arm pivot and dont take in account the cartridge size and stylus land position?
SME tonearms allow adjustment back and forward to fine tune where the stylus will be on the record, they even ship with a carboard for that...
What am i missing on this?
Thank you for the question, Ricardo! On this tonearm the lateral alignment is adjusted during the installation of the tonearm, the cardboard and the fine tuning is meant to be used at this stage. You cannot adjust placement of the cartridge forwards or backwards on the headshell, and as such the lateral alignment doesn’t change.
@@Ortofonofficial Doesn’t this presume that different styli have the exact same overall length from the tone arm pivot? For example, are all cartridges manufactured with the exact same difference between the mounting screws and where the stylus contacts the record? I would think not. If not, that means the overhang would be either correct or incorrect depending on which cartridge is used. My tone arm head shell is slotted and I set the appropriate overhang. Since the SME V head shell isn’t slotted, wouldn’t the overhang possibly be incorrect with no way to adjust for this?
The SME needs to be repositioned by loosening the screws on the pillar and move it in the right direction using the special tool that you put in the back. With the sme alignment protractor this is very easy. The distance between stylus and screwholes is fifferent for every cartridge and at the ortofon site is a list withe these measurements for all their cartridges. For vta their is also the tool to change the height of the arm. I guess they did not know where they left these tools...(and the manual)
And a usefull tip for setting the arm horizontal. Use a green laser crossbeam. First set the arm horizontal and than change the height and with the laser it is easy to measure the different settings.
also if you have to move cartridge forward or back the tracking force will change. i always do my geometry first and when everything is set i set my tracking force.
Just bought this record, have a technics sl1210mk2(from February 1988) and 2M bronze on technics original headshell.
Is there any specific way to adjust this setup?
Why don't cartridge manufactures allow for the 92 degrees cutting angle? We're told to align with the arm parallel to the record surface which usually is 90 degrees SRA. To get 92 degees you have to raise the rear of the tonearm approx 8mm.
Only to setup tracking force. When it is in contact with the record arm will not be level.
Thank u for ultimate guide.
I’m watching the video at approximately 26.25 minutes. Can you or someone explain how the needle gets dragged to the center of the record? Is there some force in the tonearm itself moving the arm towards the middle of the record? or is it the needle sitting in the groove and the spiraling affect of the groove is actually pushing the needle towards the center, not dragging.
I went through all that in the 1980s, it's a damn site easier to put a CD in a tray and press a button and relax knowing you're not listening to tracking distortion which is unavoidable with turntables no matter how carefully you set them up. Plus you'll get the full dynamic range from the recording which you'll never get from vinyl.
if your into cd what you even here for then
Valid question, lol.@@wilo1955
good video but one question, I understand the azimuth and vertical tracking angle are important for this Replicant needle but is it equal important if we use a spherical or elliptical needle?
Excellent.
Do you have a video how you mount a tonearm properly?
Why not clean the contacts first. Amazing tutorial but I’d say its worth doing a clean even of brand new wires and contacts. Only missing thing i thought of through the whole vid. Ortofon rules.
Looking at the microscope picture at 21:09, it looks like the angle is measured to the back edge of the stylus, not the centerline. This is very surprising to me. Is this standard for all cartridges?
Lower the tonearm if sound is to bright, Raise the tonearm is if sound is dull :-)
Next, we’re going to set up our CD player…
As for the cantilever angle and stylus rake angle, the shell of my old Technics SL-2900 allows to move the cartridge forward or backwards until you manage to get the optimum angle. I bought a Nagaoka cartridge and its shell is not compatible with the tone arm of the SL-2900, for I couldn't get the correct adjustment. So I acquired a new Technics shell and the problem was solved. The difference in audio quality is immense when the cantilever angle and stylus rake angle are not correct.
Doesn’t applies to medium range TTS. It’s for highend set up. Like SME Transrotor clear Audio etc
What's the size of these cartridge screws? Regular M2.5 or Japanese style M2.6?
well done! Thank you!
Holding the record by the playing surface ? Tonearm should be moved by a nudge sideways & never gripped ? Nevertheless great explanation of correct setup .
Very clear demonstration thank you! Is there an alternative method to check the correct set-up of the SRA of your replicant stylus without using a digital microscope etc?
Thank you for the nice feedback!
Regarding your question: While there exist products that help you approximate this measure by eye, the only way to be certain is through a microscope. Even just a few degrees can make a difference.
Why did you not use the Ortofon Force Gauge for checking the tracking force, is the Ortofon Force Gauge not accurate enough ?
What material can be used as a "SPACER"? Thanks!
That's a vacuum hold down table. Unless the record is held down to the platter your VTA adjustment will be off. VTA is always adjusted be ear. You also didn't appear to optimize the overhang.
Buongiorno Signor JOHANNSEN. Sono un Fortunato possessore della MC JUBILEE Boron cantilever stilo Nude SHIBATA 🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️
it makes violin playing looks easy.
Over the years , I have learned.
1/ Don't bother with Mc cartridges, too delicate and involves special phono stage
2/ Detachable headshell is much easier to deal with
3/ Accept with a new cartridge that for approx 40 hours , it will sound strained
4/ A magic eraser sponge dragged back to front gently is the best way to clean a stylus
5/ Do not wet clean records, just use a dust brush
6/ when it comes to 2nd hand records , do not buy them if they have grease or gunk on them. Check vinyl with spotlight for scratches or warps
7/ Tracking too light is not good but go by listening
8/ Set up of record deck , quality of deck, phono stage is important
9 Vinyl can be a lot of hassle , thank goodness cd was invented
Vertical tracking force??? In the early 60s we’d tape a quarter on the arm to eliminate skipping
The outer side of the groove is the left channel.The inner side of the groove is right.
Why wouldnt you use your flagship Ortofon Tonearms from the 1950s 60s?
Very good explanation! What is your suggested material for the spacer?
Thank you for the feedback, Heinz-Dieter! Our suggestion is to get something non-magnetic.
@@Ortofonofficial like what ? Any link of product ?
Please show the lateral alignment using a protractor.
ORTOFON FF15 E MK2 the manual cartridge diagram states G at top with stylus bottom of diagram, blue top right, white bottom right and green top left, red bottom left? Is that correct, can anyone answer?
Love to know the turntable he’s using here.
thank you
Hello, I am planning to replace the Ortofon 2m Blue cartrige and replace it with a 2m Black. Is it enough to buy a spare 2m Black tip and replace it with a 2m Blue one, or do I need to buy a complete cartrige and switch the wiring? Thanks for advice.
Hi, short answer: you have to buy a complete cartridge. Details to be found here: www.ortofon.com/stylus-2m-black-p-393-n-3384
Well, sometimes 0,05 gr makes a difference, perhaps not on this cartridge…quite a generic setup info but good for those not knowing...
my uncle once attached a sharp penny to a wired coat hanger and played his music that way
That's an excellent method, only downside is that there's slightly more wear on the records than a €7000 cartridge like the one in the video.