I had a great encounter with my 8350B and later on, with a 83592A 20 gig plugin. I'll listen to your video carefully and then I'll coment more. It is a nice instrument by the way, I love it. :)
Ni-Cad battery pack in these models is like a cancer. In my unit it causes an imperceptible short in the motherboard, under the regulator board connector. I have to cut and file a ground track because leaked acid causes it to separates from pcb and make contact (and short) with the connector pins. That was a nightmare to found. I had to complete dismount the unit, every chassis bit, to wash and sand corrosion (white dust in aluminium parts). I was lucky enough with molex connectores and band cables, no corrosion there. But the only part without corrosion :D Hard work but now my oscillator could be considered brand new haha
Tight pins are a nightmare! You can try solid copper wire the length of the connector then flood all pins and the copper wire between the pins preferable with a very wide tip iron. I bought a very wide tip iron replacement piece and fitted it to an old soldering iron handle. There is no temp sensor but by powering it from a limited current supply you can power the tip to heat it. The solid copper wire will transmit the heat further up and down the length of the part. If ever possible I like to get something under the part like some thin wire and use it to pull from the top side while heating the legs, would probably benefit from several points to pull from. In theory it should be possible to remove the piece in one go while using this technique if taking car not to jam it diagonally. Not easy. Good work.
I’ve seen ceramic fuses that color before and also white. They’re generally higher amperage than the clear glass fuses. I’ve bought them in the store before labeled as microwave oven fuses.
Dear My Messy lab, It is a very good restoration. To the point. I have an hp8350B working instrument with 83592A-opt002 plug-in. I was looking for the operating and service manuals but the one I found was the last one published and not for my instruments. Hp8350B prefix 2512A Hp83592A-opt002 plug-in prefix 2602A Do you have any suggestion for the proper manual's? If you know the manual's part number it will be a good start. Thanks John.
@@yiannisbrokos5267 Thanks for your comment. Indeed it seems that all the documents available online are for later prefix. I’m not aware about differences neither of the specific manual numbers. However, I guess the basic concept is the same, so you might use later version’s manual as a guide. Plenty of manuals are for sale, it’s another possibility.
Another great repair at the Messy Lab! Your methodical process is fun to follow and the gear is always interesting. Thanks! - jrh
Thanks for the comment.!!
I had a great encounter with my 8350B and later on, with a 83592A 20 gig plugin. I'll listen to your video carefully and then I'll coment more. It is a nice instrument by the way, I love it. :)
Ni-Cad battery pack in these models is like a cancer. In my unit it causes an imperceptible short in the motherboard, under the regulator board connector. I have to cut and file a ground track because leaked acid causes it to separates from pcb and make contact (and short) with the connector pins. That was a nightmare to found. I had to complete dismount the unit, every chassis bit, to wash and sand corrosion (white dust in aluminium parts). I was lucky enough with molex connectores and band cables, no corrosion there. But the only part without corrosion :D Hard work but now my oscillator could be considered brand new haha
Tight pins are a nightmare! You can try solid copper wire the length of the connector then flood all pins and the copper wire between the pins preferable with a very wide tip iron. I bought a very wide tip iron replacement piece and fitted it to an old soldering iron handle. There is no temp sensor but by powering it from a limited current supply you can power the tip to heat it. The solid copper wire will transmit the heat further up and down the length of the part. If ever possible I like to get something under the part like some thin wire and use it to pull from the top side while heating the legs, would probably benefit from several points to pull from. In theory it should be possible to remove the piece in one go while using this technique if taking car not to jam it diagonally. Not easy. Good work.
Really good job to get the instrument working!
I’ve seen ceramic fuses that color before and also white. They’re generally higher amperage than the clear glass fuses. I’ve bought them in the store before labeled as microwave oven fuses.
Thank you for another very interesting repair video. I hope you are able to find a reasonably priced plug-in for this fine instrument. Regards, David
Thanks! Indeed they are priced quite a bit.
Dear My Messy lab,
It is a very good restoration.
To the point.
I have an hp8350B working instrument with 83592A-opt002 plug-in.
I was looking for the operating and service manuals
but the one I found was the last one published and not for my instruments.
Hp8350B prefix 2512A
Hp83592A-opt002 plug-in prefix 2602A
Do you have any suggestion for the proper manual's?
If you know the manual's part number it will be a good start.
Thanks
John.
@@yiannisbrokos5267 Thanks for your comment. Indeed it seems that all the documents available online are for later prefix. I’m not aware about differences neither of the specific manual numbers.
However, I guess the basic concept is the same, so you might use later version’s manual as a guide. Plenty of manuals are for sale, it’s another possibility.
Great✌