Can confirm with the other comment on here that you do NOT need to take off the caliper carriers to change your rotors or pads. I just changed my rotors and pads myself recently
Yeah great "DIY" vid you've got here - "now pull your expensive scan tool out", yeah ok, OR just connect a 12v battery (eg: the one powering the car) directly to the parking brake motor and wind it in that way (its very easy, especially if you crimp 2 small female spade connectors onto a wire like I did), I mean those were actually the kind of instructions I came in expecting when I saw DIY in the title. Anyway I got the pads changed using that wire, a 13mm ring spanner, vice grips, a basic brake piston tool, and a few other things that could easily be replaced by the tools that come the car for changing a tyre.
How? That manufacture doesn't make the scanning tool so they aren't "milking" anyone. Your logic is dumb. If fact having this process that Audi has built into the system has both made the process of replacing brake component faster but decrease the chance of error while improving safety. Think about it, you don't have to manually release a parking braking when changing brake components (one less thing to touch and or break). Next, when you remove rear rotors and pads on older vehicle most people completely ignore or have no method to properly adjust the parking brake, creating a safety problem. This increase the chance the parking brake will not hold the vehicle when parked on a hill (Some to Seattle or San Francisco to learn what parking on a hill is really like). With the Audi system, it automatically adjust the parking brake to make sure the proper force is used after the servicing has been completed. Scanning tools are cheaper them most nice socket sets. You are complaining about a non-issue.
Great comments to both of you.. totally agree Audi does it right with these EPBs I love them.. no more frozen cables or stretched cables or rusted out linkages. The EPB sets the pressure identical every time. BTW you can still do this job by reversing the 12 pwr on the motor to wind it open but I 100% do not advise it.. just saying you don’t need the VCDS but it makes the job simple.. and to be honest if you own an Audi and are a DIY mechanic.. you shouldn’t even be concerned about costly software it’s not that expensive for all the stuff it can do for you.. good rear brake job video here.. but a couple extra things the FCP video didn’t show.. always check the caliper slider pins for smooth movements and/or clean them and lube them with silicone grease, check the boots and apply silicone grease to them too. Apply silicone grease to the piston boot, after cleaning the hub surface with wire brush apply neverseive to it to prevent rotor/hub rusting.. also tech tip: to fully secure a rotor before installing the caliper back on.. use an old drain plug it’s shorter than the wheel bolt and it’ll allow the rotor to sit fully on the hub straight if the T30 is broken off in the hub
My carista obd2 scanner app releases the EPB for brake service. I think I paid$ $30 for it. Just tested it out because my rear pads are getting thin, works beautifully.
@FCP Euro This is a great guide for do maintenance on brake system yes, but there are other guides saying piston needs turning(cw) while pushed back ? Which is true can you explain that too please ?
awesome video (its kinda a given that you clean with brake clean after, if you dont know that much MAYBE dont work on a sports car without getting the basics lol). Eitherway god damn that set screw would make me go off on a tangent of drilling it out then tapping the hole with the og screw thread then resume the brake job LOL. Also you should use a 19/32 wrench on the piston bolts not a 15 - fifteen kinda fits but 19/32 fits exactly (though i did buff the rust off before I went through all my tools to find a fit lol)
Hey Nick, you need to retract the parking brake electronically so that the piston can be compressed to make room for the thickness of the new pads and brake disc. You could certainly just pull it off without retracting it if you were simply removing and reinstalling for wheel bearings as an example.
You definitely have to retract the parking brake because the idle position is too far extended to place new pads on the car. But you can also retract the parking brake using a 9v or 12v battery. There are lots of RUclips videos that describe the process
Damn at 6:57 I thought you had to get the VW/AUDI piston tool to fit that piston slots in order to retract these pistons. I have S6 rear calipers going onto an A4. This is much easier if it works.
My driveway is slightly slanted. If I use the scanner to turn the breaks off, will my car start rolling? I usually do my oil change on my driveway and its pretty sturdy when I lift it.
Great question - you should get a set of rubber wheel chocks. Good to have around the house. .. a place like harbor freight or princess auto - 20-30 dollars for a set. Invaluable for keeping your car where you want it...... cheerd
I had someone change my brakes and rotors on my 2013 audi a4 and now my brake light on dash and e-brake release button by shifter is blinking and making sounds i wonder what it could be
Ok question, I replaced my rear brakes and I manually retracted the piston with a brake tool set. I did not release the park brake properly as I didn’t know this. Is this fatal to the system or no?
So I guess it goes without saying you need to connect the battery to a charger. I forgot and my car and obd11 tool got turned off mid process. So now my epb isn’t working and makes a loud alarm when the car drives. And I can’t re do the process cause the obd11 tool has connection issue with the ecu. Ffs
Can someone please tell me which wires should be power or ground to retrofit these D3 2007 A8L calipers to another car? Which of the smaller wires are signal/trigger wires to activate the electromagnetic solenoid and clamp the rotor? Thank you
@@bystander1489 not the caliper piston. You are correct for the electronic parking brake but the caliper still needs to be retracted. There is a tool for this.
I just bought this exact brake kit from you folks. Question: is there a left and right rotor with Zimmerman...? I can’t see any markings on the rotors. Usually there are right and left sides re. airflow no...? Thanks 🙏
As an ASE certified mechanic myself, it was really hard to watch that this mechanic had greasy gloves touching the new rotor and new pads. And he did not wash the rotors with soapy water before installing them; he also didn’t use brake cleaner before he installed the wheel. The grease will work into the pads and affecting pad quality and pad life.
Hi Daniel, that means the hardware is a torque to yield fastener, meaning it stretches on the final additional 90 degree turn. Some fasteners require different levels of degrees and torque. That makes them one time use.
Finally something Audi.
You don’t need to take off the caliper Carrier. Rotors slides right out
Can confirm with the other comment on here that you do NOT need to take off the caliper carriers to change your rotors or pads. I just changed my rotors and pads myself recently
Yeah great "DIY" vid you've got here - "now pull your expensive scan tool out", yeah ok, OR just connect a 12v battery (eg: the one powering the car) directly to the parking brake motor and wind it in that way (its very easy, especially if you crimp 2 small female spade connectors onto a wire like I did), I mean those were actually the kind of instructions I came in expecting when I saw DIY in the title.
Anyway I got the pads changed using that wire, a 13mm ring spanner, vice grips, a basic brake piston tool, and a few other things that could easily be replaced by the tools that come the car for changing a tyre.
Glad I found this. I was following Audizine forum and they insisted to screw pistons. That didn't work. ODBeleven next...
Well done. Did a similar job on my toy 2005 A8L D3 last night. Old pads were a hair thin 🤦🏻♂️
Awesome car.....A8L
just use a 12 volt battery on the epb connector on rear wheel to release the galiper piston
Yup I used my Milwaukee m12 and retracted them lol
A vehicle that requires a scan tool to replace brake pads is from a Manufacturer that's milking it's customers dry.
How? That manufacture doesn't make the scanning tool so they aren't "milking" anyone. Your logic is dumb. If fact having this process that Audi has built into the system has both made the process of replacing brake component faster but decrease the chance of error while improving safety. Think about it, you don't have to manually release a parking braking when changing brake components (one less thing to touch and or break). Next, when you remove rear rotors and pads on older vehicle most people completely ignore or have no method to properly adjust the parking brake, creating a safety problem. This increase the chance the parking brake will not hold the vehicle when parked on a hill (Some to Seattle or San Francisco to learn what parking on a hill is really like). With the Audi system, it automatically adjust the parking brake to make sure the proper force is used after the servicing has been completed. Scanning tools are cheaper them most nice socket sets. You are complaining about a non-issue.
@@toddn.3123 Fr this guy doesn’t know what he’s talking about. Also Audi doesn’t make Vagcom lmao. So how is that milking?
Great comments to both of you.. totally agree Audi does it right with these EPBs I love them.. no more frozen cables or stretched cables or rusted out linkages. The EPB sets the pressure identical every time. BTW you can still do this job by reversing the 12 pwr on the motor to wind it open but I 100% do not advise it.. just saying you don’t need the VCDS but it makes the job simple.. and to be honest if you own an Audi and are a DIY mechanic.. you shouldn’t even be concerned about costly software it’s not that expensive for all the stuff it can do for you.. good rear brake job video here.. but a couple extra things the FCP video didn’t show.. always check the caliper slider pins for smooth movements and/or clean them and lube them with silicone grease, check the boots and apply silicone grease to them too. Apply silicone grease to the piston boot, after cleaning the hub surface with wire brush apply neverseive to it to prevent rotor/hub rusting.. also tech tip: to fully secure a rotor before installing the caliper back on.. use an old drain plug it’s shorter than the wheel bolt and it’ll allow the rotor to sit fully on the hub straight if the T30 is broken off in the hub
My carista obd2 scanner app releases the EPB for brake service. I think I paid$ $30 for it. Just tested it out because my rear pads are getting thin, works beautifully.
@@gmr19hey can you lmk where I can buy the tool you’ve mentioned
U can use 9v battery with two clips, motor retracts. Did this for an A5
Just noticed you didn't clean the rotors with brake clean. There was dirt/grease/dirty glove print all over the face of the rotors.
Great vid, going to replace mine soon for the SQ5
Loctite 243 or equivalent medium strength thread locker on the calliper carrier securing bolts.
Plz do vid on front brakes for SQ5/A7
@FCP Euro This is a great guide for do maintenance on brake system yes, but there are other guides saying piston needs turning(cw) while pushed back ? Which is true can you explain that too please ?
great video! i was wondering if the three notched piston tool is actually necessary since you can just do it with a clamp like you did in this video.
awesome video (its kinda a given that you clean with brake clean after, if you dont know that much MAYBE dont work on a sports car without getting the basics lol). Eitherway god damn that set screw would make me go off on a tangent of drilling it out then tapping the hole with the og screw thread then resume the brake job LOL. Also you should use a 19/32 wrench on the piston bolts not a 15 - fifteen kinda fits but 19/32 fits exactly (though i did buff the rust off before I went through all my tools to find a fit lol)
Can you not just leave the parking brake off before starting to avoid having to use the scan tool ?
Hey Nick, you need to retract the parking brake electronically so that the piston can be compressed to make room for the thickness of the new pads and brake disc. You could certainly just pull it off without retracting it if you were simply removing and reinstalling for wheel bearings as an example.
You definitely have to retract the parking brake because the idle position is too far extended to place new pads on the car. But you can also retract the parking brake using a 9v or 12v battery. There are lots of RUclips videos that describe the process
@@kevinmoscon please elaborate/links
Great videos. Any B9 clips available?
Damn at 6:57 I thought you had to get the VW/AUDI piston tool to fit that piston slots in order to retract these pistons. I have S6 rear calipers going onto an A4. This is much easier if it works.
Clean the hub before installing the disc.
Another great video. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Is the process any different for an A5?
My driveway is slightly slanted. If I use the scanner to turn the breaks off, will my car start rolling? I usually do my oil change on my driveway and its pretty sturdy when I lift it.
I have the same question
@@Lowkeystee I ended up doing it and left my gear on first. It didn't roll back. But I also put blocks behind my front tires (car was facing upwards).
Great question - you should get a set of rubber wheel chocks. Good to have around the house. .. a place like harbor freight or princess auto - 20-30 dollars for a set. Invaluable for keeping your car where you want it...... cheerd
I had someone change my brakes and rotors on my 2013 audi a4 and now my brake light on dash and e-brake release button by shifter is blinking and making sounds i wonder what it could be
Did this job and got a parking brake fault because I turned off my scanner and the car I guess. Any reason why?
Ok question, I replaced my rear brakes and I manually retracted the piston with a brake tool set. I did not release the park brake properly as I didn’t know this. Is this fatal to the system or no?
How did it turn out...? Work out ok....? Just curious as i'm about to do mine..
Thanks
Wondering why you didnt drill the set screw out and install a new one.
No need doesn't make a difference
I thought that too. Would be another good video.
@@bystander1489 no. But 15 minutes now & it would make every next brake job easier.....
So I guess it goes without saying you need to connect the battery to a charger. I forgot and my car and obd11 tool got turned off mid process. So now my epb isn’t working and makes a loud alarm when the car drives. And I can’t re do the process cause the obd11 tool has connection issue with the ecu. Ffs
Can someone please tell me which wires should be power or ground to retrofit these D3 2007 A8L calipers to another car? Which of the smaller wires are signal/trigger wires to activate the electromagnetic solenoid and clamp the rotor? Thank you
항상 잘보고 있어요. 코로나 조심하세요. 👍
Does this parts good for audi A4 model ??
I think you need to screw the caliper piston back in using the 3 notch tool that matches the face of the piston.
Yes!.. that’s best practice, and shouldn’t use that clamp.
i was wondering the same thing. with expensive scan tools but no piston rewind kit to push the piston back.
No the computer screws it back in you dont screw by hand it doesn't work that way
@@bystander1489 not the caliper piston. You are correct for the electronic parking brake but the caliper still needs to be retracted. There is a tool for this.
Your obviously not a mechanic
I just bought this exact brake kit from you folks. Question: is there a left and right rotor with Zimmerman...? I can’t see any markings on the rotors. Usually there are right and left sides re. airflow no...? Thanks 🙏
why not extract the broken bolt easy job
What model Autel is that?
Do u have to use the scanner for the front brakes?
Emergency brakes are only on the back for this car so its not needed. But good question.....👍
@fcpeuro I will be doing the brake pads for the first time on my 2019 SQ5. How similar is it to this video?
Between this video and this one ruclips.net/video/KTbUDlpzyo4/видео.html&ab_channel=FCPEuro , you should be covered!
As an ASE certified mechanic myself, it was really hard to watch that this mechanic had greasy gloves touching the new rotor and new pads. And he did not wash the rotors with soapy water before installing them; he also didn’t use brake cleaner before he installed the wheel. The grease will work into the pads and affecting pad quality and pad life.
OK what’s the procedure in the field without your $300 scanner?
not driving an audi😂
do you need to replace the sensors
Hi Quano, there are no sensors on the rear brakes to replace, one less step!
Can I ask 6:10 what is 100nm+90degree? what is +90 degree means?
Hi Daniel, that means the hardware is a torque to yield fastener, meaning it stretches on the final additional 90 degree turn. Some fasteners require different levels of degrees and torque. That makes them one time use.
@@fcpeuro thank you for the reply
I thought the carrier bolts are torqued to 194nm?
Conveniently no set screw. The hardest thing to remove in this whole rotor replacement process.
😢
....didn't clean the caliper slide pins. Shame on you
Front brake video
Coming up!
I guess FCP guys are not monitoring comments....
Auto Union tattoo?
Almost - vw + audi. The union logo is a bit different 👍
Wtf does 100 nm plus 90 mean? 190?
it means you wrench it to 100nm (or 74 lbs) and then turn your wrench another 90 degrees
@@LiKwiDzZ 🙏💯 thank you
Halford in uk ask me 1100£ for all of them bought all the parts for 300 what a rip off for few hours job
You got this, Peter!
Love the bullshit Audi makes you do just to replace the rear pads
Engineered for a lifetime of money-making for the dealer