Four Inexpensive Dovetail Saws Tested.
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- Опубликовано: 19 ноя 2019
- Can you get a good dovetail/joinery saw at a good price? Let's look at 4 inexpensive saws.
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Saws in this video (affiliate) || Suizan Dozuki: amzn.to/2O4xjCj
Small Zona (Marketed as Olson): amzn.to/2r9UySq
Large Zona saw: amzn.to/35ui8IH
Scatter Lee Bone Saw (good for a Halloween costume; not great for woodwork): amzn.to/2XtzJO0
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Honing Guide: amzn.to/2TaJEZM
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Cheap metal/plastic hammer for plane adjusting: amzn.to/2XyE7Ln
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Metal File: amzn.to/2CM985y (I don't own this one, but it looks good and gets good reviews. DOESN'T NEED A HANDLE)
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Block Plane Iron (if you can't find a used one): amzn.to/2I6V1vh
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Mini-Hacksaw: amzn.to/2QlJR85
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only watching this as I saw a bone saw in a wood working video, and thought, "WTF?" LOL.
I thought it was going to be “dovetails using civil war era bone saw” there for a minute haha. Still nothing Rex Krueger can’t figure out!
That first saw looked a lot like a civil war field surgeon's saw. Yikes!
I don't know why i cliked on this video. i dont know what a dovetail saw is. I have never done anything with wood in my life minus my pants. Yet this is the best video i have watched all day
Well, maybe you'd like to see more woodworking videos. Maybe you'd like to DO some woodwork. It ain't rocket science and its really fun. I have TONS of videos to get you started.
Come on man. Do it. Who knows what potential you have?
The first one looks like an old fashioned bone saw. I used Zona saws for cutting wood for RC Airplanes. It does work great, but you are correct that it's a bit lightweight for real (non-balsa) wood or wood of any reasonable size.
All great stuff and I'm loving your woodworking for humans series!
Yeah, Rex mate, that's a bone saw, not meant for wood, but for bone. lols
Also good for snapping Slim Jims
James Spokes
I noticed that too. I haven’t seen one of those since orthopedic surgery rotations.
I love my Suizan!
I took me a second but when I saw that saw, felt a little bit of fear. Then an image of that saw covered in blood lying on some bloodstained pavement popped into my mind. I cant remember what but I'm sure I've seen it in a torture room in a horror movie or some cheesy crime drama.
@@dripfreefpv9695 ....or a Saudi Embassy... 🙄😒
Wood and bone aren’t *that* different as materials.
I love how these tight shots show off not only the cuts he is making, but the dinged up surface of a happy workbench
That bench isn't happy...it's ecstatic!
Rex, the thing I like MOST is that you show what does NOT work and WHY. That helps explain the process. It beats all the DIYers who say "Oh this just fit perfectly but if it doesn't you should adjust it." Thank you!
I bought the Suizan folding dovetail saw which is my favourite hand tool in the shop. It weighs more than the fixed blade saw, but I can toss it in the toolbox & go if needed. It's ~$44 on Amazon, & the handle protects the teeth when folded. I highly recommend it. It takes little more than the weight of the saw to cut due to sharpness if teeth & thinness of kerf
Your restorations are the best on RUclips, and you should definitely make all those video ideas you mentioned at the end especially on saw sharpening and how to do certain types. Anyways you are informative, accurate and extremely reliable man and honestly you are the only chanel I will rewatch videos time and time again, the quality of your videos is so good that I normally don't like those other creators who just sound like ad representatives for big box companies.
I think Jon heisz has a video where he does dovetails with a hacksaw and sharpened up screwdriver makes a great point that sometimes it's not the tool.
I think Rob Cosman made that video.
@@1pcfred yep, both!
@@miki09876 ah must be a challenge thing then. A big part of doing dovetails is coming to terms with the geometry of the joint. When you're done putting it together there's very little you can actually see. That's the part that has to look good too. When you can seperate those edges out from the rest you can make better looking work. The problem rookies have is they try to achieve a perfect joint. You're only going to get so close to that. Usually it isn't quite close enough either. But if you focus more on the bits you can see and let the rest slide that can work out. Has to do with the nature of wood itself.
That first saw was originally a surgeon's bone saw. Civil war era
Yey, perfect timing Rex! I'm currently on shopping-spree/Christmas wishlist making, moving towards good and accurate hand tools :D
This one is both good and accurate!
Really been enjoying your content. Power tool guy myself, tried hand cutting dovetails a few times, was not able to get them to look good enough, plus they took forever and I wasted a lot of wood. I now just use a router jig from Porter cable to make dovetails, didn’t cost that much and they come out perfect and really quick to batch out.
I know i’m 7 months late to the party here but FYI the Zona saw cuts on the pull stroke like the Japanese saws do but you can flip it around if your careful and it works a bit better
Very Cool Dovetail saws !!!!!!! I love my Japanese push saw. Thanks for showing theses Dovetail saws, Rex
The stream lined chrome instrument looks like a bone saw..
I always enjoy viewing your video. thank you. I always learn something new.
Hey Rex great video! I bought the large zona saw and then made a handle for it with a Blackburn tools template. Works really well.
Man, I like your channel, you always come up with good reasons to buy more tools!
REX, THE Bone saw dovetailer.
Thanks for the video Rex!
Long term hobby / DIY carpenter making the transition to hand tool craftsmanship in my early retirement, thanks to folks like yourself and Paul Sellers. Just bought my first ryoba and it was an epiphany. Need a dozuki next.
I've heard that final saw recommended by several others on RUclips. I guess that's the one I should get. Thanks, Rex!
I super love it, and I'm kind of married to Western backsaws.
The Veritas? 🤣
I cannot believe that I actually bought the correct saw for the job! I bought one of the Suizan saws from woodcraft on a whim on my FIRST trip to the store! I just saw the saw and got it because it was cheap and looked nice... great reasoning, huh? I have used it to cut the back of my drawers for the undermount slides and thought about making some joints with it... guess what I’ll be doing this weekend??? Thanks for the great and helpful video!
My pleasure!
Your experience with the little zona is what I experienced with a dozuki. Sharp, thin, and precise, but I couldn't steer it. Unless I started it perfectly, I would cut wrong.
I since found and sharpened an old Spear and Jackson, and it's much easier.
Bravo: nice and clear portrait of saws. Cheers !
Pulls out bone saw- is this guy for real 🤔
That first saw looks like it belongs in the bag of a Civil War doc's bag.
Dude. That's a horror movie bone saw 🤣
One day while doing some joinery I wondered about how well a metal hacksaw would do with an 18TPI blade. It did pretty good actually. A touch rough though. So I lightly dressed the set of the teeth with a sharpening stone riding the back spine of the blade. The cut I got was fast and smooth. Sort of a poor man's or quick and dirty classic bow saw. If you've never used it give it a try. Just reserve that blade for wood.
I have a hacksaw in my woodworking only toolbox with 14tpi. Works great.
You're why I subscribed - great videos that are thorough, well presented, and aimed for my skill level. You've saved me a lot of money and increased my work working skills. Thank you very much !!
Spend the money on a joinery saw. If there was a cheap good one out there I think we'd have all heard of it by now.
Rex, I have 2 heavy late 40s early 50s Disston backsaws that you are welcome to if you are interested. 1 is 8 inches wide 12 inches long with the handle placed really low on the blade the other is 16 inches long. They're rusty but very salvageable. Thanks for your videos!!!!!
You're very kind, really. I have MANY vintage disstons, but they don't do the average viewer any good. People need a saw they can just buy and get on with things!
that saw you recommended is now 50 bucks 😭😭 this is what 4 years does to prices
I have decided that because the holidays are coming to go back through all of Rex's videos to get the links to the tools I like and add them to my elfster account so my family knows what to get me!
Oh, good idea!
I was just looking at those zona saws
Quite frankly I don't have the patience to use 24 TPI saws woodworking. 18 is about as far as I'm willing to go. 15 is about as far as I can sharpen too.
Hi rex i know this is an older video but i was wondering
Could you use the Suizan Pull Saw to cut dove tails? Or do you need that dove tail specific one?
I had to go to Durban this evening so I missed the premier.
Is there anything like Banggood that sells those Japanese style saws?
Our hardware shops don't even stock the better quality western style tools.
Hi Rex, big fan here. You could take a look at the Spear & Jackson backsaws. The 5410Y and 9550B models are both brass backed, can be sharpened and should cost less than 40USD. (I'm guessing, but that's the price here on Amazon Italy)
They should cost less than $40 but you'll pay at least $45 for one on Amazon now.
Thanks for the tutorial and the saw reviews.
Filling a gap like the one you had here is pretty much invisible if you fill it with end grain. SO in this case, rather than using walnut and putting in a sliver of long grain that always gonna show. Put in the maple instead and make it show end grain ans it disappears. you may need to make 2 triangular fillers, one of each species to fill a bad gap bu it's worth it to make the joint look perfect. Rob Cosman has a video on this that's worth watching. Matt Estlea also has a video on camouflaging poorly executed dovetails in his garden workshop series. Also worth viewing for some really useful tips.
With more and more youth, (under40) thinking they are "masters" in their craft while depending on thousands of dollars in machinery and tooling, Its refreshing to see you teaching the basics of what is at the root of all true master work.
machinery and tooling makes work more efficient.
I bought the suizan, its great
You might want to consider making a frame saw as part of this series. I've heard, and read that people use them as dovetail saws very successfully.
Yep. Honestly, for fine joints i use a straight blade in a cheap hacksaw frame. The replacement blades for Stanely's miter saw are great although you might have to cut it down and drill a hole if you don't have a 14 inch saw frame. Still, under $15...
There's NO QUESTION that a frame saw is perfect for this series. I'm on it!
Rick: can you drop me a link to the blade you like?
@@RexKrueger You can get by with a band saw blade made for cutting metal that fits into a portable band saw. But it hadn't occurred to me to use a miter saw blade until Rick's comment, that is a great idea!
CRL H36193 Replacement blade
In the UK you can get a what Spear and Jackson call a traditional tenon (back) saw for £21 which is good for tenons and dovetails. Recommended by Paul Sellers. No idea if it's available in the US.
We can get them. They cost $45-$50 here depending on the model. There's just no cheap decent joinery saws available. It is something you have to spend the money on to get anything workable.
I absolutely love my Ryoba. It goes with me every time I am cutting small pieces of wood. I started with the Veritas dovetail saws, but the Japanese style are so easy to use. Plus, 2 saws in 1 for under $50 is a great money saver.
I love them too. Hooray for Japanese saws! I tried one once and now I own a few different types and find myself working almost exclusively with them.
I love my dozuki, but the downside is that you can't sharpen it and have to purchase replacement blades for them when you lose teeth or they get dull. Once you add up the cost of the saw plus a couple of blades you are getting close to the Veritas dovetail saw, which I also have and really like.
I don't disagree, but don't forget about those saw files, which are not cheap and are also disposable.
I've seen people file down the heel teeth on spined pushsaws to make them easier to start, just making the first few a little shallower so you have a less aggressive place to set your kerf.. Seems to work well in theory, though I can't try it myself due to a preference for pullsaws. Might be worth looking into though.
I've done that! Works great!
@@RexKrueger Good to know.
One of the great things about living in Great Britain is the number of second hand really old saws you can get for little money. My favourite is a Marples brass backed saw.
The problem with older vintage saws, unlike almost every other hand tool, is that you need to know a lot more to get an old saw into working condition. If you can't sharpen a saw, you're better off not trying and just buying a new one from somewhere like Spear&Jackson or Veritas. Saw plates are the most deceptive bit of tooling in the shed - they just look simple, but actually making a good one is something we didn't master until really rather recently. Your 17th century joiner had chisels and mallets and squares and so on that were functionally just as good as modern tools to any practical level; but their saws were definitely worse.
@@MarkDennehy well, if you are going to do much woodwork you have to be able to sharpen all your tools, chisels, planes and saws.
My Marples saw is cast steel and whilst I can't say exactly how old it is, I have presumed 19th century or possibly early 20th. It really is quite good.
@@BensWorkshop Very true, *but not on day one*. This series is about starting up; get people started easy, then lean into the finer details. On, like, day four or so :D For a beginner? Buy a new saw and buy old chisels and planes.
@@MarkDennehy if I bought a new plane I'd start by sharpening it, same with chisels. Oddly many of the old tools I've bought (at least half including the Marples saw) arrived sharp.
@@BensWorkshop Sure, and so would I - but that's several years into this.
For a new beginner? Skip old saws. Old everything else is great; but old saws require saw files, saw vices (even if shop made) and a bit of expertise. But if you just bought a veritas dovetail saw or a spear&jackson tenon saw or something like that, you're able to cut joinery from day one and by the time they've dulled, you've put in enough time that sharpening a saw isn't an intimidating proposition anymore. I mean, c'mon, we all remember the first time we sharpened a chisel and how much we stressed over finding the right bevel angle and what to use as a sharpening method and which grits were ideal and all that - and now we just stop work every so often, turn to the strop or less regularly the stones, sharpen up in somewhere between 30 and 60 seconds and get back to work. This is the same gig, but saw plates are just more fiddly if you get one in bad condition.
If you can throw the $30 at the saws mentioned in the video, you can throw $30 at a better saw that works right out of the gate and just get on with the fun bits faster; and you do this hobby for a few decades at least, so you'll get to saw sharpening soon enough.
Have you looked at the PAX dovetail saw(English). I've owned Lie Nielsen and others. I really think the Pax is a great value. Amazon carries them.
Where do you got the bonesaw rex? I could need them for a Cosplay
Great shootout, once again :) This confirms my choice of a Dozuki.. Suggestion for an upcoming video: inexpensive MARKING GAUGE shootout! Thanks!
You find a nice bone saw, it's kind of normal it doesn't cut wood that great considering is for bones
Bought the little Zona saw for dovetails in small parts. The first few times I used it I thought it was hopeless - blunt and inaccurate. It was quite a while before but dawned on me that it is set with its teeth arse about face, god knows why. It was easy enough to remove the plate and turn it round to use in the push stroke. It's great now, but only for small projects. Incidentally, while the Japanese saw is half the price of a Veritas, I assume that it cannot be sharpened?
Can you build a quality but cheap and easy bevel gauge for chisel and plane blade sharpening
I built this one when I first got started: www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/station.html#jig
Cheap. Works. Don't go too far down the rabbit hole with this guy's site. He over thinks it, but the jig is good.
I hope you cover the 'Box Joint'. I have been wrestling with this type of joint for my small boxes for years now. I do not want to use a table saw. I do not want to use a router. A saw and chisel are preferred. Strong box joints for utilitarian boxes. Just on my wish list. Thanks.
Bruce Brachman I totally agree with that!
Hey Bruce: that box joint is really a machine tool joint. For handwork, dovetails are actually easier and stronger. Box joints are good and fast, but not by hand.
Box joints are the domain of the table saw. Pros use gang saws to make them.
is it worth having a tennin saw and a dovetail saw?
Are these all considered cross-cut saws? If you get a rip style joinery saw, can you still cross-cut the small areas where the pins will go?
Some of these saws might be but to cut a dovetail you cut with the grain. Hope this helps.
What species of wood was that at 6:00?
Rex, I see a saw on eBay "Back Woodworking Dovetail Saw Stainless Steel 270 mm TH-104 KO", does it look like it might be similar to the Suizan Dozuki:? It's $23 with shipping?
I have no idea, but the Suizan isn't much more and I know it's great.
@@RexKrueger Thanks
The Dozuki is a great choice for a dovetailing/fine detail saw. In fact, I don’t use any of my European/Western style saws anymore. I’ve seen the light and have gone full Japanese on all my hand saws. Kataba, Dozuki, Ryoba are the only way to go.
So you sit on the floor and hold the work between your toes? That's full Japanese woodworking. Me, I'm sticking to western style myself.
Paul Frederick Sometimes. It depends on the project. I like to work smarter, not harder.
@@FriedPi-mc5yt I guess if I gotta I'll crawl on the ground to do stuff. For woodworking I've got that under control here now though.
Paul Frederick Yeah, you do you man.
I hate to recommend this, but I have to say it. There is this Uolor multi purpose 14 in 1 saw, that cost 24.99 on Amazon. Honestly, it kind of junk. I only bought one because I watch this channel where a Japanese guy make all this stuff in his appartment. He always cutting shapes out steal plate. It's not a great saw, but I use the thing all the time since I bought it as joke. It comes in nice case, and you can buy it a few bucks cheaper, if you look under the name 14 in 1 Magic saw. Thanks, love your video.
Rex, I have a question. I went looking for inexpensive dovetail saws. I searched back saws, and came up with some options I thought were interesting. For example, the GreatNeck 14 inch miter saw was only around 13 dollars, or the stanley fatmax miter saw was around 16. Is there a reason you wouldn't use a miter hand saw for dovetail style work? It has similar handles, reinforced back, and fairly fine teeth. Is there something I don't understand about how they work?
With these specific saws, I don't know. Sometimes you find a larger tenon saw with a thin plane and small teeth and it works for dovetails, too. It's possible.
The other thing you can do is recut teeth into saws as long as they don't have hardened teeth. I want to see if I can't grind hard teeth off a saw someday. Really good saws have hollow ground plates too. Which is a feature you're not going to find in cheaper models.
Generally teeth on a saw are sharpened specifically to cut across wood fibers or to cut along side the length of the fibers. The number of teeth and the size as well as the set also make a difference. Just do a you tube search or a general search on saw teeth and sharpening. It's simple but complicated if you have no knowledge.
The Zonas are better suited to marquetry, veneers, and other fine hand works. 24 TPI is the clue. Love the final choice Suizan Dozuki. I prefer the pull stroke .. less wear and tear on the blade and more natural for the power delivery. Pushing a blade seems so contrary to nature...at least mine...
Yeah 24 TPI is eye bleed on a saw plate. You can do pretty fine work with say 15 or so TPI. And you stand a fair chance of being able to sharpen it someday too. Newbies like pull saws but pros stick with western style. Perhaps working wood isn't supposed to be natural? It is imposing our will onto nature.
Can you make the hand plane final showdown video
Coming before the end of the year! Promise!
the saw looks like a surgeon's saw.
have you ever tried using one of those oscillating end saws to cut joints?
Oscillating end saw... Do you mean a power tool?
I've done some joinery with a "Sawz-All" (I have a Dewalt) with variable speed control, AND I tried (unsuccessfully) with a jig-saw (aka Saber Saw)...
The Sawz-all has enough heft to the blade that you can slow it down and be really gentle with it to get an almost decent joinery cut... BUT like the regular carpentry saw, it's ragged, even with the finer teeth... It is after all, a "sawz-all" not for making a Rembrandt... AND they're also expensive.
Most power tools are.
The problem with the jig-saw (part of it IS my own fault here) is that the blades tend to warp inside the cut. This causes all manners of undesired side effects. I do tend to be heavy handed with tools (to say it politely) so once someone manages to accrue the skills, it might be feasible, BUT I've worked with these kinds of tools for years without getting much better about the blade bending issue... AND generally avoid it for joinery...
Truly, you can do dovetails with an ordinary saw, too. It's just better to leave some of the waste so you can "sneak up" on your lines... I generally cut about a millimeter (1/16" or so) away from my lines and then clean it up with the chisels later.
If I were to recommend any particular saw(s) for the beginner, it would be the Japanese style... You CAN find those at Harbor Freight (here in the States, anyway) and the cutting on the pull stroke tends to be better for beginners trying to keep the cuts straight than the "western style"... You don't have to get a Ryoba (the double sided version) to do everything, either... I started with a smaller pistol-gripped pull saw (can't recall the technical term) before I could justify buying a Ryoba... but I absolutely LOVE the pull saws. They were easier to learn and get used to... AND while I do still use western style saws, I keep a good quality pull saw around for the cuts that absolutely MUST be perfect every time.
If you DO have the money to justify a power tool, then I will make one more recommendation. If at all possible, you'll find more service out of power tools that have a Variable Speed control... NOT just the trigger, either... A proper speed control will either be a knob or wheel (usually with a numerical representation on it) that adjusts the tools maximum speed with the trigger pressed or the switch "on"... Some tools might not sound more serviceable with the control, and while rarely used, when you actually NEED to use it, it's indispensable!
Example? A drill... Who doesn't want to drill a hole as quickly as possible? Right...
Well, get a bit wedged into the wood and start smoking because the drill's running hot and fast and the hole is just that deep... AND you'll discover that turning the power down will reduce the burning and damage. You'll still want to "go in short bursts" to completely eliminate burning the wood and caking rosin on the bit, BUT turning the speed down also helps in those times when you want to drill into metal, too...
SO whenever possible, seek out variable speed controls... AND you might even be well advised to hunt down specifically exterior power and speed controls that you can tune at the outlet... in case on a limit of budget or just availability, you can't get the variable speed type tools...
The only caveat on this (however) is that your tools' motors need to be capable of handling that control added on. Not all tools do... Like my drill press has internal "brakes" to stop the motor quickly... AND those are held "off" to free the drill by power. Thus, turn the power controller dial too low and the drill press quits all together... There's only so slow it CAN go.
FINALLY, just the casual observation... running any motors on less than optimal juice tends to limit their lifespan. It's as true for the variable speed motors as well, BUT we have to do what we have to do... AND the technical "damage" is relatively low. It's just a fact of life, stuff doesn't last forever.
Hope this helps. ;o)
It's a power tool. Think of a serrated chisel attached to an electric toothbrush.
www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS355B-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Tool/dp/B00FM4E3SE/
I have not, but maybe it would work great. I'm all about experimentation. Hell, i just tried to dovetail with a bone-saw.
@@marvelousmaker Sorry for missing the notification... OH... One of those...
No. Haven't messed with them much... I don't know if you could even find it with a speed control, but I would recommend so if you could.
What little I have messed with it, the only advice I'd offer is the mantra "Gentle Gentle... GENTLE". There may be more options (obviously) but the blades I've seen were "flimsy" for a power tool... You could feasibly do it, maybe shorter dovetails with one of the "round" blades where you can keep the cut closer... OR at least start the cuts with the round one, and switch to the long flat one to finish before going for "chiseling out"...
I think I will keep to my sawz-all, though... just personally. I actually have one of those. (lolz... of course) ;o)
Just once more checked the local prices for Suizan saws - for what they sell here I can buy a fine Veritas. So I'm back to building one or saving up.
I bought the same japenese suizan saw few months ago. It is really good. I also have one of those cheaper saw. After the japenese saw, I never touch it :)
I'm glad you like it! I've never found anything else so good for so cheap.
@@RexKrueger Actually I notice, mine is smaller then yours but I guess it has the same quality and yes not bad price :)
You can buy hard point throw away Tenon / Dovetail saws made by the same company’s who make the 20 & 22 inch cross point hand & panel saws .Company’s like Irwin Jack ,Stanley Max ,Bacho & now probably Dewalt .They are throwaway ,but tend to last a lot longer than the bigger hand saws as they only get used in workshops on short cuts for Tenon ,Dovetail ,Lap joints & other types of bench carpentry joints .They can be had for £12 U.K. & probably around $20 or less in the USA . Better still have a mooch around garage & car boot sales for proper old Tyzack ,Diston & Spear & Jackson professional Tenon & Dovetail saws in good useable nick & re sharpen & set ,they will last forever .Don’t waste your time with them silly straight handled saws ,they are for kids first tool sets.
The downfall of the gents saw is the straight handle. You might consider doing a project to put a homemade dovetail saw handle onto the otherwise usable saw plate. Filing a new lower TPI rip tooth configuration would help with cutting speed, but probably way more effort than most want to commit to.
I've done all of that with a flush cutting saw. I picked it up for like a buck at a yard sale. Was a Bracht made in Germany. Had some weird farm cut tooth pattern on it that was duller than Latin class. It took me a few tries to get teeth cut in it that I liked. Kind of OK to use now. Not the best. But perhaps the best I have.
You can get decent older back saws for around 10 bucks all day long at flea markets, even in areas where there aren't a lot of woodworkers.
Also beware of getting on the little japanese saw trend thing like all the 'cool kids' (NOT). Most of these japanese saws, especially the cheap ones are throw away garbage just like the big box western saws. They can not be sharpened.
To get a good quality japanese saw that you can sharpen you'll have to fork over probably more than the veritas dovetail saw costs. You'll also need feather files you won't find locally.
You can get the files you need to sharpen a western saw anywhere, and cheaper.
I just don't find that to be true. I've lived across the US and the tools you can find vary HUGELY depending on where you live. Many parts of the country have very few old tools.
Um... is that a bone saw? **shudders**
It sure is...makes a lousy joinery saw.
@@RexKrueger it's great for knuckle joints😵😎😎
Are you going to tap the used market? Disston Saws are running 25 to 50 dollars for a tenon saw in decent shape
Many people can't find old tools, so I focus on new tools that people can buy easily.
A vintage used hand saw in good shape? You must live in fantasy land! All the ones I see look like people tried to cut rocks with them.
we use it to cut bone during surgery
FYI the 1st saw is a Satterlee Amputation saw.
Ask yourself: could I have possibly purchased that saw without knowing what it is? No. I could not. Of course I know what it is. Why did I buy it? To try it.
Thumbs up to crush a troll.
To me it looks like a doctors saw for amputations.
The first saw looks more like an old surgeons bone saw..
Great episode! Very helpful, but why am I watching this on a Friday night drinking a beer? 😱
Because it's fun!
Isn't the first one used by butchers for bones
Definitely a Bone Saw
I use a hack saw
I think the long handle on the Japanese saw is for a two-hand grip, not to rest the forearm. If I have it wrong, speak up.
Like many things, there are various ways to do it. If making a big cut in hardwood some people advise using both hands, but there are other techniques that work for some people. I never use either of my Japanese saws two handed and I am getting great results.
I have been using Western style saws for about 45 years and Japanese saws for four months or so, and I already get more accurate cuts with the Japanese saws.
The ryoba is a 2-handed saw. This one has to be one handed becasue you're using your other hand to position the blade and start the cut.
That first saw is what surgeons use... no???
The second saw dulls out very quick as well
The third saw, you can just make or turn the saw
The fourth saw is just right, but you could do the same with a saw max
The best recourse is saw + chisels to give you the best dove tail possible
Ah the endless quest for the perfect joinery saw. The riddle of the steel. Is the saw I have good enough, or do I just suck at joinery? The only way to solve the riddle is to get a good saw! So spend the money to find out.
Have you considered making Paul Sellers bow saw with a big box bandsaw blade? It's cheap, fun to build, and cuts pretty well. paulsellers.com/2015/10/making-frame-saws/
I've made one! Going to do more with frame-saws inthe future!
Woodwork for humans? What about the Martians? :-)
That's on my other channel!
Just buy a hacksaw.
Replaceable blades. Anywhere 10-22tpi.
Thaddeus Stevens College, where Steve Latta teaches cabinetmaking, lists the "Crown FLINN1 10" backsaw" as THE recommended backsaw for the students in their two-year program. I believe it's around $16-$20.
I think he accidentally typed tendon saw instead of tenon saw
Love the "zona" saw. Fun fact, "Zona" in my native language (hebrew) means bitch or whore lol
Real ryoba are a little less flexible than that. They’re still flexible, but more springy.
It's a real ryoba. Made in Japan and everything.
@@RexKrueger we probably have a different definition of what "real ryoba" means. Either way, thanks for your videos. I really appreciate them.
that first saw looks like a surgeons bone saw
because it is
Wow, something medical that is cheap, probably still cost someone an arm or a leg though😜. It would probably need a new tooth configuration filed into it to make it cut well.
How can you make such survey without mentioning the most usable saw for such works, it's not small and I have no word in english for it but it's very traditional and has been used for maybe a thousand years.
It would be easy to explain if could make a drawing. It's basically made of three pieces of wood. The blade, long and thin, about 40 mm width, fastened in both ends and stretched with a rope in the top of the saw.
It's very convenient and exact to use.
Please help me someone, whats the name of this tool ❗
Frame saw. A simple search on the internet for antique saws would have answered you.
`I am sure other people have mentioned but that first saw is a bone saw
What size file do you use to sharpen these saws?
You need to use rip saws for end cuts not crosscut saw. Some of the saws you used are crosscut saws. That's why it took for ever.
Was that a bone saw?
Yup.
@@RexKrueger not my first or even fifth choice, but you do you.
The Dozuki is $50 Cdn - still to expensive.