Engraving tumblers with the XTool D1 using lightburn
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- Опубликовано: 25 ноя 2022
- My method for making custom engraved tumblers using my Xtool D1 10 watt standard and the original rotary. Settings and tips in the video. Consistent results using my interchangeable jig to hold everything square.
For templates that I have made, check out my Etsy shop. I build files for projects and tools for laser engravers.
www.etsy.com/shop/TheClackShack
For Clack Shack shirts, check out my store:
the-clack-shack.creator-sprin...
The links below are affiliate links that will direct you to the product in this video. If you use this link for a purchase, I will receive a commission from the purchase. I remain unbiased and honest in my assessment as always.
My XTool affiliate link:
www.xtool.com/?ref=TheClackSh...
Comgrow air assist for D1- www.comgrow.com/products/comg...
Hasel Outfitters 20 ounce tumblers- amzn.to/3tZpcLD 
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Man, you have been an absolute help. I've had the Xtool D1 Pro for a little over a month. Was intimidated by it before even opening the box. But after watching you, you help me overcome that fear and I have bee n able to successfully use lightburn on my cutting boards. The sky is the limit with the Xtool, and I am ready to achieve so much more with it. Thank you greatly for you vids.
Glad it helped, that is the whole reason that I started a channel. I enjoy helping others….thanks for watching.
I am really glad to see my question got answered when I asked about using lightburn, thanks a bunch..
I was in a live video and unable to respond immediately. The question said XCS i thought
I'm just setting up an XTool D1 Pro 20W today and discovered your channel while doing a bit of research. Great information, much appreciated. Liked and Subscribed.
Thanks, hopefully the information will be helpful. Live Sunday nights at 7 also… come hang out
Clack! Just did my first tumblers today! Have the new Roly LaserMATIC10. First tumbler one was perfect thanks to your settings and clean-up advice!!! Thanks for all your help! And this machine is awesome!!!!
Great to hear!
Your video was a godsend! It helped me correct my errors and get my settings right so I could actually print a tumbler! Thank you so much! ❤
You're welcome!
Thanks for the video Clack! Been wanting to give tumblers a try on my 10W SainSmart and this gives a lot of good tips.
I hope it helps
Thank you for your great and down to earth video, I've learned a lot.
Glad you like it. Thanks for watching
Nice setup and awesome tips. Another great video. Gives me some ideas, I gotta get your jig template, that is amazing.
Thanks… glad you like it.
Thanks for a Wonderfully Informative vidclip ..... Best to You and Yours from ChCH, NZ
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching
You're remark about not going too slow was a turning point for me. I had been going by the library settings I had downloaded for anodized aluminum. Around 1000 mm per minute. It looked dull and dingy. Did a material test over and under that setting with no noticeable improvement. I thought it was the dark blue color. After I sped up to 4000 mm per minute is when I got the results I was looking for. Thank you
Glad you got it…
My other tip. I have various sized tumblers. I have a sample for all sizes. I put painters tape on them and run a test burn at lower power. The image will burn into the tape. You get an”preview” of the burn this way. When you are happy with the result, just peel off the tape, clean the tumbler, put away til next time you need it. Obviously it works if you have a spare powder coated tumbler, but eventually you run out of art space. Warning: painters tape stinks so ventilation is a must.
I can confirm, that stuff is foul.. Thanks
D1 owner here. I make and sell tumblers and find that Laserbox Basic is hard to beat for its simplicity when it comes to tumbler making. The ease of use makes the process so quick when time is money. I just wish it worked with the Pro. Thanks for showing your software setup! I want to dive more into Lightburn now that a second laser is in the shop.
Tip for any Yeti engraving. Drop the speed down the 50mm/s for every color. 70 doesn’t fully cut through the powered coating
I was the same way until I used LB. Using my method, it is just as easy as laser box basic
Chad Great Stuff. More of this kind of content would be greatly appreciated. I am in need of some Kit less pen help. could you do one where you go over the drilling and taping and the tap, Die and Drill bit combos you need for each size nib.
I usually just buy my pens.. maybe one day.
thank you for your video.. you sold me on it.. i was wondering wether or not to buy it.. already ordered it.. hope the company hooks yah up with some free products to tell us about... and how to use it .. your awsome!
XTool hasn’t sent me anything yet. I hope the video helps.
Thanks for the valuable info! I purchase 3 or 4 Tumblers from Temu. I have practiced on one of the Blue Tumblers and found 100% Power and 85 mm/sec does a really good job. I use Awesome cleaner and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser or equal to clean off the residue. I also found that too slow on speed and the stainless will be permanently marked.
Yes, Too much heat will turn it grey, glad it helped.
Happy Birthday 🎉
Thanks..
Thank you so much for this video! I didn't see anything about leveling the cup, so I didn't do that. Any tips for next time?
I use the spacers to get the work surface level. I have other videos on tumblers. Use the keyword search
Roll Tide from Cullman brother. On circles, I just ad 10% to the width in light burn and the circles turn out near perfect. Example: circle is 70mmX70mm, I make the width 77mm and leave the height 70mm. The circle with logo inside will look oval shaped, but very circular when burned on the cup. No change to steps or anything else. Hope this helps.
If it works, there is some math that has to be done but The "correct" way is by changing the settings on the rotary. I agree, sometimes it is just easier to stretch it.
WG: War Eagle from Elecetic, AL bro!
Thanks for the videos! Do you run air assist when engraving tumblers?
I run it anytime I run the laser. Just enough to keep the fumes out of the nozzle. Only time I don't use it is occasionally in a video outside of my enclosures. Just forget sometimes..
Great video. Thanks. What settings do you use for a white tumbler?
Tumblers, especially white ones need testing. It also depends on the image and power of the machine.
Thank you, for all the information about using the rotary tool with LightBurn. What kind of pricing do you get on the tumblers??
Usually $15 plus cost for a burn
Newby ... Does the # lines per inch impact the outcome of your burn? Trying to dial in and I have seen wide variety of comments regarding the lines. VERY helpful video ... thank you!
My opinion it does.
Amazing video. Great job. I have been messing around with tumblers too. One question. What happens if you don't click "enable rotary". Im using an atomstack rotary and never enabled this option and havent had an issue. Just wanted your opinion. Thank you
Must mean that your steps for the gantry match the rotary.
When you are entering the diameter in Lightburn on a tapered cup, do you use the largest diameter (mouth end) or do you use mid tumbler, or bottom?
I set the steps based on testing the circle made on the object
How’s the final quality of the engraving through power coat? Any jagged edges or is it super smooth?
You should be able to see it. As long as you use a good file, the appropriate power and proper LPI, it is very smooth.
I have a XTOOL D1 10 WATT LASER. It will mark Stainless Steel very good with CRC Dry Graphite Lube for $12.0 a can.
I spray 3 light coats, let dry between coats. ONE PASS, Laser power at 100 % and speed at 300 mm/minute. WORKS GREAT !! CHEAP TOO.
Good deal
@forrestgumpv9049 Dry graphite or dry moly?
@@schmidtyyt CRC Dry Graphite Lube, do NOT use moly.
Any tips on the tumbler power/speed settings for a 20w?
I haven't done any with the 20 watt, I use my 10's for engraving. I do burn anodized business cards with it at 120mm/s, that should be close.
@The Clack Shack Would you recommend using air assist for engraving tumblers?
I do, my theory is it blows some of the debris off the work surface. It is just a theory....
Did you make the wedge for raising the base of the tumbler or buy them? If I make them I would think that I'd use a wedge to make the tumbler level and then measure to from the bottom to the waste board and make a wedge that size. Yes/no?
I use measured spacers that I cut
Does lightburn auto adjust the difference for crosshair v/s laser spot?
As long as you load the settings file. There is a pointer offset setting in lightburn. Yes, it does as long as it is set correctly. Importing the preferences file will set it if you follow the directions on XTool's website.
So I did an update and am using version 1.3.01 but I don't have the 'enable rotary' under the home button. Do you know where it might be?
Under settings there is a switch to show it on the workscreen
awesome thank you. I have a side question... I am having a hard time trying to find out how to convert image or logos into vector images so I can use them in lightburn. what am I missing
Import into lightburn and use the trace function
@@TheClackShack Trace is not goood on things with smaller deatil like stars in flag , I cant get all the points to work
@@jimcarris3258 You probably have this sorted by now but Inkscape is the answer. It's a free program with quite a flexible image trace function.
Do you have a video on how to calculate circles in tumblers
Not currently
I have a 5w
What should i run my laser when doing tumblers?
Somewhere around 40mm/s probably. A power test would be your best way to find out.
I MAY have missed it but what LPCM did you use? thank you . this was super helpful!
I usually run 200 LPI on tumblers
Have you tried the Atezr rotary with your Atezr P20? I've got one when I bought my machine but have not tried it yet. Interested in what setup setting you used (if you've done it) before I give it a try. Thanks Dave!
Yes, many times. Best rotary in the shop
ruclips.net/video/t6eUiHeHdv4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/tZIiW7stTFM/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/6EPauHAlAnM/видео.html
Do you always have the layer color in black?
Would these settings apply to the Yeti tumblers with the powder coating?
If I have multiple fill layers, I use other colors. I just like black as a visual aid in what the burn will look like. Yeti cups are much harder to clear. You will need to run a test or be prepared to run it multiple passes.
You said to slow it down on blues. Is that the case for navy blue/almost black?
Should be fine as long as it is a dark color. Its all about what colors the powder coat reflects, the closer to black it is, the better it burns. If anything, mayne slow down to 60.
Do you have a video discussing your jig for getting things always square?
There are several, just search my content for "JIG"
@@TheClackShack thanks. I have no idea how to search a specific creators content.
Great video, but I'm a little bit confuse at that speed how long will a take to do your engravings?
most about 10-15 minutes
Hi! I have the xtool d1 pro 20w, using the xcs software do you think these settings could help me get a clearer burn on tumblrs? They been coming out dark and unclear even on black tumblr. Appreciate you teaching everyone!
I test on all new materials to be sure. If they are coming out dark, speed up or power down. If you go too slow, the stainless will be a grey color. You want just enough power to remove the coating but not heat up the stainless. Around 130 mms with most 20watts. Test first
@@TheClackShack thank you so much!
Wondering how your rotary axis works set to Z. I thought Z axis is vertical and the X & Y axis is the gantries. Mine only works if the Y axis is ticked.
Also I just tried switching to the direction yours is facing and now it’s mirrored 😂. Maybe the RA2 is different but I can just tick the mirror box
Ps. 😅 heading over Etsy now to get your Jig Kit whilst I remember
The rotary is on the Y axis, it plugs into the board on the xTool D1.
@@TheClackShackthanks mate just got confused when I seen yours was set to Z axis ( see 24:50 ) also the RA2 I think faces the other way I purchased and cut your jigs out last night these are going to be very cool 😎
I was trying xcs but when I go to the material list all I see is user define, do you know why the full list is not there?
I have very limited knowledge of XCS, I only use it to update firmware. It came out after I moved over to Lightburn. Sorry
so essentially you are removing any coating the tumbler has, can this be done on a full stainless steel finish?
You can lightly mark plain stainless but for best results, I use cermark marking spray. It creates a black finish on the steel. Search tumblers in my videos and I have some older videos of the process.
What is the total detention's of that machine? ( width/Length) Overall not working space. Trying to see if the table I have currently with work. Thanks
You need about a 26 wide, 24 deep space. The cabling requires a little more room on the right side. It has about a 24x24 footprint
I have the same laser 10w pro and I've tried 100 power 70mm/sec and 100 power 60mm/sec tried it with and without air airsist I'm not getting clean metal after cleaning it's got lines in it like it didn't go all the way through
You can adjust LPI and focus to get different results. I run about 200 lpi on tumblers.
Clack, just want to make sure I heard you correctly. You’re saying try 60 mm/sec for black not /min? Brand new to lasers I’ve got a Z1 10w and I’m running a test strip now but it’s mm/min.
Yes, I use mm/s. You can divide or multiply by 60 to convert. I prefer mm/s.
How long does it take to engrave one cup?
Not sure if missed it
Depending on the design, usually around 10-15 minutes
Hello sir I have the xtool d1 pro 20w want to do some cups using the creative space software any tips or suggestions that could help me out I’m new to the laser engraving
Test your materials. Maybe this will help. ruclips.net/video/3_DpaqIFVaY/видео.html
what to use to clean up after engrave
Rubbing alcohol and magic eraser
If you make the logo in Adobe Illustrator, you can extrude a cylinder of the same diameter as your tumbler, then you can map your artwork to the cylinder. Save it as a .dxf or .svg file and send it to the laser. This will compensate for the circumferential distortion.
That would require illustrator but thanks. I have Fusion 360 if I needed to do more.
Keith-great technique. Can you summarize how u do that in AI plz? This is the technique I want to use
Is there any way you can help me get my laser going with light burn? I was trying crook creative space and there is something not right and I can’t get tumblers to engrave. So I decided to try light burn. If u could help get me set up w origins and all that I would forever be thankful
Here is my configuration video. You will need to download files from xTool. ruclips.net/video/TSCWM9hhwAU/видео.html
Any reason why when I enable rotary it doesn't turn but if it's unchecked it works?
On an XTool, the rotary plugs in to a separate plug than many machines
How did you make the jig to slant the chuck to where you can do tapered cups
I use spacers under one end of the roatry
Thank you sir .
So you got my brain working. I use a conical warp for cutting vinyl. While my design is warped on vinyl when placed on tumbler it lays perfectly straight. Would this work without out all the math settings? I use silhouette studio business edition which lets me export Svg. I just got an M1 and did a blue tumbler no circles lol turned out ok which led me you you. Will try again with your settings. Guess I’ll find a tapered tumbler to practice on. If I remember I’ll come back and let you know results. I’m old and forget stuff but I subbed and turned notifications on so just maybe. Have a fantastic 2023! P.S. I saw dish soap on glass is supposed to work too! I just want to burn everything
Yea, "I can burn that" seems to pop into my head alot too... lol.. Happy new year
So my company just purchased a xtool d1 pro 20w with the RA2 pro. And they want me to etch Navy Blue Yeti tumblers and beer cozi's for our All Company Meeting coming up in a week. Ive been using 1 as a tester trying different powers and speeds but cant seem to find the happy medium of burning the coating and not the stainless steel beneath. Do you have any power/speed/lines per mm suggestions because I'm getting to the point where I'm left scratching my head wondering how to make this work. I was using XCS and just switched over to LightBurn. Any help and/or ideas will be greatly appreciated
Also I've etched other tumblers from Walmart and Amazon and they come out great but, these Yeti's are something else altogether. I don't know if the coating is thicker or just a better material or whatever the cases may be but I can't manage to get the stainless steel to show after burning any of my test passes
Blue can be a pain because it reflects alot of the light. You will need to go much slower, bumping the LPI up will also help. Knock about 10 mm/s off the speed you use for other colors and test,
Do u know why my burns keep like doubling up? And why it mirrored when I didn't want it to? Btw I upgraded to the devil1 also for my xtool. Idk if that makes a difference?
Flip the rotary to stop mirroring. Doubling ? Are you running 2 passes?
@@TheClackShack I will try that, no its just 1 pass. I think my numbers in the settings of the rotary are wrong?
@@TheClackShack Thank you for helping btw 😀
¡EXCELENTE CANAL! SALUDOS DESDE MÉXICO, EN MI CASO TRABAJO CON UNA MÁQUINA ATOMSTACK X20 PRO Y ROTATIVO R3 DESDE LIGHTBURN PERO LAS FORMAS SALEN DEFORMADAS (EXTENDIDAS EN EL EJE X) ¿PODRÍAN AYUDARME A ENCONTRAR UNA SOLUCIÓN A ESTE PROBLEMA? LO AGRADECERÉ INFINITAMENTE :D
Parece que los pasos por rotación pueden estar apagados. Es posible que deba verificar para estar seguro. Además, puede usar cinta para ajustar la forma para corregir si es necesario.
Este video puede ayudar
ruclips.net/video/58cj3yn46k0/видео.html
How much do you charge to engrave a tumbler or wine glass if someone brings you the glass
That’s a tricky question. What is the cost of this item? How comfortable are you with the material? The higher the risk, the more the cost. $15 is as low as I go on doing things on other peoples items. Also, you may want them to provide a tester if it is a new material.
What brand air assist are you running..
In this video, I used the Comgrow pump with an xtool nozzle. The Comgrow and DeWallie are variable power pumps and makes them very versatile for engraving and cutting. I have a Comgrow, DeWallie, Xtool and shop air that I use.
I'm having trouble with lines coming through my projects how do I eliminate that
Depends on what the lines look like, hard to say. Speed, power and lpi need to be right. I recommend testing
Hi, so you said the circle would be smaller, but are you using a caliper in a straight line measurement? Any circle on a radius will be smaller in width that it will be in length not on radius.
ok
Hello there, just making sure of the settings. You said 70MM per second at 100% power. Isn't that too much?
Not for me, this tumbler on my 10 watt machine, works good for me.
On coated Tumblers, I use 80/80 and the finish is always perfect on my xtool d1 10w
Love the tumblers. Regarding the math, did you take any engineering classes, because you think like an engineer.
I grew up in a garage, I guess that’s why. I am way too bad at math to be an engineer,,, lol
What is your lpi / interval setting ?
I usually run around 200. If I didn't mention in the video on this one, not sure.
What do you think about putting painters tape on the tumbler and doing a line just to confirm the location of the art.
A few minutes later: I was reading the comments below after watching the video and saw where Wobblin Gobblin said the same thing. Lesson Learned: read first, question/comment later. LOL
That is an option. If you prefer
I have found Fine Tip Dry erase markers to be very beneficial in marking instead of bringing out the tape (wipes right off with your finger). Or a permanent marker will work because denatured alcohol will remove the permanent marker with ease!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY CLACK ATTACK FROM a MAYMAYMADEIT
Thanks.. lol
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong but I’m trying to engrave a tumbler and it says it’s going to take 27 hrs , that does not sound right, I have the setting at 60 100. I’m using lightburn and xtool 20 w laser . What could I be doing wrong?
Make sure it’s not set as an image.. that is way too long
@@TheClackShack i don’t think it’s set as an image, could it be anything else? Maybe a setting on lightburn? I’ve been trying to figure it out for like 2 days now.
@@TheClackShack would it be considered bitmap in the program if it was printing as an image? mine takes 2.5-3 hours for engraving on a kids cup
@@amberolson5023 look at the cut settings, you should only see FILL or LINE. If one of your layers says IMAGE, that is the issue. A bitmap is a type of image.
Hey man, I have a question that maybe you've answered before. Do you have schematics or somewhere I can pay for the design of your enclosure that I've seen you put a few of your lasers in? It's the wooden one with the orange plexiglass. I'd love to build one for my own shop and stop using the one that comes from manufacturers which don't really keep all the fumes out. Thanks!
They are in my SHOP section of my website but are free. Just some rough drawings.
@@TheClackShack Thank you!
What line per inch?
254
Hi David, for your logo, is it a transparent PNG and do you change the sharpness or Lines per inch? Thank you.
It is a black image with white background. I used trace to create a vector of it. Right click the image and select trace. Double click the layer settings in the cut panel (where you see the power settings) and there is an LPI setting in there. It is called DPI on images.
Just starting out. I don’t see a venting for the machine. I’ve been looking into this. What are your thoughts?
@@MiklGorges , I have several enclosures and different exhaust systems. Just search my channel for “enclosure”
@@TheClackShack In what program are you doing this? I must have missed that... AND THANK YOU sooo much for your videos! I too was intimidated and now have 6 perfect tumblers done! Liked and subscribed
@@TheClackShack Love your videos man! What lines per inch are you using on your tumblers, I'm getting rough edges almost as if I needed to double the LPI and wondering if you have a fix to clean up the edges on the fill setting?
Do you pay licensing fees for the use of Clipart?
No, I make my graphics except for the occasional files that I purchase.
Can you help me? I'm getting lines on my tumbler
I would need to see what you are talking about to advise. Send a message on my Facebook page
@@TheClackShack just sent you a message
How long did it take?
Tumbler usually take 5 to 10 minutes depending on design
@@TheClackShack I'm trying my first one and it says 9 hours. I entered everything in like the video.
@@jaymz5577 I am guessing you used mm/ m or using an image. I run mmm/s
what is lightburn?
The best laser engraving software I have found. It’s a modified version of laser grbl
The problem is xtools own video shows 360mm/sec on setup
Maybe it worked for them
@@TheClackShack your settings worked a lot better. Attempting their speed I was afraid my glass was going to fly off
The burn from the tumblers smells like burning epoxy. EXHAUST GUYS!
Yes, it’s bad…
Rubbing alcohol will fade the powder coat. Might not be seen in some lighting but when u can see it its awful. Try la assume home depot or dollar tree best cleaner.
Never had an issue of it fading, it will dry it out but once it gets washed, they look normal.
@TheClackShack thought the same thing until it hit neon lights, only certain ones. I'm not sure what they were lumman wise, but the customer had ne come to their office, and u could clearly tell it was from our side was fine in one room and outside. Had to redo order off 100 mugs. Have not used since.
I use LA Awesome. Very cheap at the Dollar General and works great.
@@sktyby LA Awesome? What is it "normally" used for?
Why do I see so many people running in the thousands and then at 60mm/s - both come out great?! That's so confusing and here I am running at 3000mm/s and 90%. Xtool D1 10w...seriously is that wrong......
If you see thousands, they are running mm/m, smaller number is mm/s typically.
100 mm/s = 6000 mm/m.
@@TheClackShack SEE that is why you are my favorite!!!! You are the best, and right. Don't you tell anyone I said that LOLOL! Thank you!
those rollers are sometimes off because of slipege or binding just get a rotary stand and always will be exact
I agree
by the way you have a ROLLER NOT A ROTARY the rotary has a 3 jaw chuck NO SLIPEGE no movement
stays where you put it doesnt wander like some tumblers do on those rollers
Well if we wanna be all particular about it, technically it is a roller style rotary. The three fingered type are chuck style rotaries. Seeing that the definition of rotary is a device that is used to rotate an object around a cylindrical axis.
The word rotary is devised from the word rotation.
Both devices are used to rotate the material on the 4 th axis but do so in different ways. So yes, what I have is a type of rotary. Many companies mix and match the names.
I appreciate the debate though… thanks for watching
thats the same laser i have and dont need that lightburn program at am and no math involved it will print the cup the same thing you have on the screen everytime if you ust a chuck for the laser instead of the rollers nothing nothing hard at all ill have 20 tumblers done while your still jacking around with that lightburn program
I have used laserbox and XCS, they can’t do what lightburn can. They do work for the one machine though
You sound fun