Here is the link to the block heater I got for anyone that wants it. amzn.to/2M13RyB If you prefer to use the genuine Ford heater use this link: amzn.to/378fEmb
No. Use a multimeter on the cord first. Then test the element the same way if the cord is good. There are lots of videos on RUclips telling you how to do it. It's not hard to diagnose. The hard part is getting the old element out if you need to. Be careful not to overtighten the new one. If you do, you'll crack the aluminum housing and create a much bigger job.
Use a multimeter on the Ohm meter setting to see if you have a broken circuit. If you don't know what that means, look that up on RUclips. There are videos explaining how to do it. If you leave the cord in place first, and it tests bad, then you know one or the other isn't working. Then pull the cord and test that. If the cord is bad, replace the cord only first. At that point you have a 50/50 chance of being done with just a cord. You can test the element the same way if you can reach in there with your multi meter. Hope that helps.
@@dcpdiesel2500 Great video Thanks, always wondered IF I had to drain coolant if ever needed to do that job.What's Ford's cost? Is that cheaper and works just as good?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UNCJE0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002UNCJE0&linkCode=as2&tag=dcp069-20&linkId=ad36a8b0ff5a497983da86b1178081fa 1000 watt. Here's the link
Here is the link to the block heater I got for anyone that wants it. amzn.to/2M13RyB
If you prefer to use the genuine Ford heater use this link: amzn.to/378fEmb
Wow its nice to see the bottom of a 7.3 not covered in oil LOL
Idk. Judging by the rust, probably would've been better if it were leaking oil lol
Nicely done dude, thanks for the video! Will be doing this on my 7.3 Excursion
Thanks for the vid it was extremely helpful
How do you know when the element s bad? Do you get an indicating light on the dashboard?
No. Use a multimeter on the cord first. Then test the element the same way if the cord is good. There are lots of videos on RUclips telling you how to do it. It's not hard to diagnose. The hard part is getting the old element out if you need to. Be careful not to overtighten the new one. If you do, you'll crack the aluminum housing and create a much bigger job.
@@mattphillips1910 thanks so much
Where it threads in,it will be warm to the touch if working,if you don't have a multimeter.
How do you know if the need cord is working?
Use a multimeter on the Ohm meter setting to see if you have a broken circuit. If you don't know what that means, look that up on RUclips. There are videos explaining how to do it. If you leave the cord in place first, and it tests bad, then you know one or the other isn't working. Then pull the cord and test that. If the cord is bad, replace the cord only first. At that point you have a 50/50 chance of being done with just a cord. You can test the element the same way if you can reach in there with your multi meter. Hope that helps.
What did you mean you by didn’t get it to set right for the cord angle what happened
How long does the cord replacement take
less than ten minutes. If that's your only problem, it's easy.
I have an E99 …. Is it the same ?
Will this be the same for a 93 7.3 idi
Should be similar yes
Where did you buy this one from?
I just got it off Amazon. It was likes $54 or something like that.
Ok thanks man
@@ronniecammarata5081 amzn.to/2M13RyB
here's a link to the one I got.
@@dcpdiesel2500 Great video Thanks, always wondered IF I had to drain coolant if ever needed to do that job.What's Ford's cost? Is that cheaper and works just as good?
What wattage was this one you installed?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UNCJE0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002UNCJE0&linkCode=as2&tag=dcp069-20&linkId=ad36a8b0ff5a497983da86b1178081fa
1000 watt. Here's the link