Very excited to have found this channel as an Aussie in a sub tropical climate. So few videos and info on growing crops suitable to our climate and also how to manage growing temperate vege (ie:broccoli) in a sub tropical system. Thank you so much for the effort and time you put in to helping all of us learn.
Really enjoy your videos. Such good information and techniques..and they just keep getting better. I live in the Cooroy area so local knowledge of the climate is a bonus. I’ve been converting my acreage over to more agroforestry but it’s early days. I few months back I found a wild out crop of tithonia and cut of many branches…from that I have now planted out about 50 seedlings that I propagated. Holy crap they grow about 20cm a week. I work on a budget so appreciate any of you propagation tips. Cheers
Hi Steve. I would love to get hold of some of that Tithionia Diversifolia. I tried seeds from overseas and they didn't germinate. Not easy to get but it's a good one. I have a packing shed in Cooroy, and am down there weekends. Would you sell me some seedlings?
Hey mate, i just found your channel today i m an Aussie living in India with a small farm. Just like to thank you that your videos are very insightful and keep up the good work. I am growing sugarcane similar way, 2 rows together and another two rows at 12 feet row to row distance along-with multiple intercrops in between rows to harvest the maximum sunlight. Cheers.
For the fruit trees, just grow them from seed! Stone fruit are incredibly fast growing, here in new zealand anyway, a peach tree will fruit in about 2-4 years and can get to 5ft in a year from seed :)
@@farmerjones2766 Is this from your own observation and experience, or something that you heard from someone else? Simply not the case here in new zealand brother, I have many fruit trees grown from seed and all fruit wonderfully. The idea that a fruit tree must be grafted is absurd horticultural mythology, these trees have been reproducing to continue their lineage since long before we were born without being grafted.
Got a second year fairly large sweet yellow peach tree fruiting this summer grown from seed in my front yard here in Los Angeles. In backyard, Ten+ year orange flesh yellow with red blush nectarine with crisp and luscious juicy flesh great for biting or slicing, also a white creamy nectarine with red skin but tastes like it was pollinated by a lovely aprium and it's grown from a seed and a perfectly ripe fruit melts in your mouth after a bite and it tastes holy. The nectarines from the market taste sugar-free in my opinion. Also growing a couple of productive full size apricots trees growing from seed, fruting full size Hass avocado from seed and an orchard of sweet jumbo bright red Pomegranates grown from selected "wild" grown seeds after 5 years they become large abundant trees, and a couple of mature guava trees grown from seed one ripe is yellow exterior white flesh sweet lemony flavor, and other is speckled red sunset blush guava with a creamy sweet lime and vanilla ice cream taste, very very tasty guava. No grafts here. No sprays no pesticides applied. Grafted trees I've purchased have died from disease or damage from beetles killing the trees drilling tunnels into the wood however trees grown from seed here at my home demonstrate characteristics of resiliency and an acclamation to my specific growing area and seed grown fruit trees are the winner for me.
My experience with peach seedlings is that they produce very inferior fruit, with any, or in some cases, all of the following undesirable characteristics: extra fuzzy, thin pericarp, stringy, low juice, unpleasantly strong aroma, disease suseptable, straggly growth habit .... @@cactuslove6708
I've been watching some syntropy videos from different countries and noticed that some people would not Propagate or sell pups to try and start another banana tree until the original tree was 3 years old. Otherwise the pups are not strong genetically I guess ... Don't know if you've heard the same. But something I thought you might be interested in knowing.
@farmerjones2766 I'd definitely start my own private nursery. They might not be ready for direct planting but if you're still adding more rows in 3 or 4 years or replacing trees in existing rows you don't have to buy any. Any excess you could probably sell to people starting with their syntropic systems.
That is indeed what we have down, with a fifty meter hot house / shade house for that pupose with many types of trees being started in there. Our cost per row has gone way down.
Great video! I was wondering if you have found if certain mulberry varieties are difficult to propagate from cuttings, and if so, which ones those are. Thank you!!
Hi Farmer Jones, Thanks for creating this informative and inspiring content. I've just found your channel and I'm looking forward to watching your back catalogue. Seems your videos only go back as far as episode 16. I'm interested to hear your thinking on vines? Apologies if you're covered this and I haven't found it yet. How do you structure and manage vies like grapes, passionfruit, kiwifruit etc within this system? Love to hear your thoughts on berries and perennials such as asparagus.
Sorry for late reply. Vines a a possible fith demention in ''Stacking''. That is, growing multiple prodcust on the same square meter of land. So far unintentionally we have experience with chokos and passionfruit. Bot of which volunteered themselves in the system. Birds seem to be the culprit depositiing the seeds on the bananas thyer also raiding. We have many beatiful passionfruit vines covering bananas. Giving good fruit. Any vine type plant could be used in tis manner. Plant them next to you more permanent trees. We have also grown / planted m,any dragon fruit up the permenant eucalypts.
Hi Amber not so much a time thing. We place a cup under the first drip and measure the output that way. To test you can dig your finger into soil to test saturation. Quarter cup seedlings one cup mature plants two cups a tree etc. the drip outlet is every ten cm so acts like a soaker hose.
Farmer Jones, Would it be possible to please do a video on syntropic soil preparation before planting? (Or could you please link to a good video that could help with this please ~ Thank you !!)
@@farmerjones2766 Farmer Jones, Sorry the earliest video on your channel I can see is video 16 ~ Perhaps check with family over Christmas if they can see your first 15 videos on their devices? Would be awesome to see all your videos ~ They are so informative and your channel deserves lots of views ✅
Gday, I often hear people often say (in nz) that eucalyptus can chemically inhibit the growth of other species around them with their leaf drop, do you notice anything like this over there?
So far so good. Mature trees will drop allelopathic oil. The secret is managing them at flower stage (Senescence) to prevent this. They use it to sterilize the ground of competition for their own seeds.
@@farmerjones2766 sorry for the endless questions! I'm hoping to do some kind of agroforestry in the near future and have recently heard of syntropic farming. Will the eucalyptus eventually get too high to be managed to prevent flowering? Or do you just keep kind of pollarding it? Cheers mate
@@nickdell5859 Yes Pollarding is usually the answer once over ten meteres. Or as high as you can get a ladder safely. For non Aleopathic species as long as theyre droppig thier leaves at the right time you could possibly let them grow taller.
Very excited to have found this channel as an Aussie in a sub tropical climate. So few videos and info on growing crops suitable to our climate and also how to manage growing temperate vege (ie:broccoli) in a sub tropical system. Thank you so much for the effort and time you put in to helping all of us learn.
Really enjoy your videos. Such good information and techniques..and they just keep getting better. I live in the Cooroy area so local knowledge of the climate is a bonus. I’ve been converting my acreage over to more agroforestry but it’s early days. I few months back I found a wild out crop of tithonia and cut of many branches…from that I have now planted out about 50 seedlings that I propagated. Holy crap they grow about 20cm a week. I work on a budget so appreciate any of you propagation tips. Cheers
Hi Steve. I would love to get hold of some of that Tithionia Diversifolia. I tried seeds from overseas and they didn't germinate. Not easy to get but it's a good one. I have a packing shed in Cooroy, and am down there weekends. Would you sell me some seedlings?
Hey mate, i just found your channel today i m an Aussie living in India with a small farm. Just like to thank you that your videos are very insightful and keep up the good work. I am growing sugarcane similar way, 2 rows together and another two rows at 12 feet row to row distance along-with multiple intercrops in between rows to harvest the maximum sunlight. Cheers.
Legend
Great video
For the fruit trees, just grow them from seed! Stone fruit are incredibly fast growing, here in new zealand anyway, a peach tree will fruit in about 2-4 years and can get to 5ft in a year from seed :)
You can but many do not produce and its a long wait to find out they're duds. So we remove any risk by getting grafted ones.
@@farmerjones2766 Is this from your own observation and experience, or something that you heard from someone else? Simply not the case here in new zealand brother, I have many fruit trees grown from seed and all fruit wonderfully. The idea that a fruit tree must be grafted is absurd horticultural mythology, these trees have been reproducing to continue their lineage since long before we were born without being grafted.
Got a second year fairly large sweet yellow peach tree fruiting this summer grown from seed in my front yard here in Los Angeles. In backyard, Ten+ year orange flesh yellow with red blush nectarine with crisp and luscious juicy flesh great for biting or slicing, also a white creamy nectarine with red skin but tastes like it was pollinated by a lovely aprium and it's grown from a seed and a perfectly ripe fruit melts in your mouth after a bite and it tastes holy. The nectarines from the market taste sugar-free in my opinion. Also growing a couple of productive full size apricots trees growing from seed, fruting full size Hass avocado from seed and an orchard of sweet jumbo bright red Pomegranates grown from selected "wild" grown seeds after 5 years they become large abundant trees, and a couple of mature guava trees grown from seed one ripe is yellow exterior white flesh sweet lemony flavor, and other is speckled red sunset blush guava with a creamy sweet lime and vanilla ice cream taste, very very tasty guava. No grafts here. No sprays no pesticides applied. Grafted trees I've purchased have died from disease or damage from beetles killing the trees drilling tunnels into the wood however trees grown from seed here at my home demonstrate characteristics of resiliency and an acclamation to my specific growing area and seed grown fruit trees are the winner for me.
My experience with peach seedlings is that they produce very inferior fruit, with any, or in some cases, all of the following undesirable characteristics: extra fuzzy, thin pericarp, stringy, low juice, unpleasantly strong aroma, disease suseptable, straggly growth habit .... @@cactuslove6708
I've been watching some syntropy videos from different countries and noticed that some people would not Propagate or sell pups to try and start another banana tree until the original tree was 3 years old. Otherwise the pups are not strong genetically I guess ... Don't know if you've heard the same. But something I thought you might be interested in knowing.
Love it mate. Great vid. When is your next volunteer day? Would love to come learn from you!
@farmerjones2766 I'd definitely start my own private nursery. They might not be ready for direct planting but if you're still adding more rows in 3 or 4 years or replacing trees in existing rows you don't have to buy any. Any excess you could probably sell to people starting with their syntropic systems.
That is indeed what we have down, with a fifty meter hot house / shade house for that pupose with many types of trees being started in there. Our cost per row has gone way down.
Great video! I was wondering if you have found if certain mulberry varieties are difficult to propagate from cuttings, and if so, which ones those are. Thank you!!
I’ve not noticed any difference as I have both but this time I planted white mulberry. I have to cut it back every year so I use Those sticks to plant
Hi Farmer Jones, Thanks for creating this informative and inspiring content. I've just found your channel and I'm looking forward to watching your back catalogue. Seems your videos only go back as far as episode 16.
I'm interested to hear your thinking on vines? Apologies if you're covered this and I haven't found it yet.
How do you structure and manage vies like grapes, passionfruit, kiwifruit etc within this system? Love to hear your thoughts on berries and perennials such as asparagus.
Sorry for late reply. Vines a a possible fith demention in ''Stacking''. That is, growing multiple prodcust on the same square meter of land. So far unintentionally we have experience with chokos and passionfruit. Bot of which volunteered themselves in the system. Birds seem to be the culprit depositiing the seeds on the bananas thyer also raiding. We have many beatiful passionfruit vines covering bananas. Giving good fruit. Any vine type plant could be used in tis manner. Plant them next to you more permanent trees. We have also grown / planted m,any dragon fruit up the permenant eucalypts.
Love your videos. Out of interest how long do you run your Dripper system on a row at a time? Thanks.
Hi Amber not so much a time thing. We place a cup under the first drip and measure the output that way. To test you can dig your finger into soil to test saturation. Quarter cup seedlings one cup mature plants two cups a tree etc. the drip outlet is every ten cm so acts like a soaker hose.
I'm from Brazil and I'm planting some Australian eucalyptus here
Can be very invasive, grow 200 ft tall, and poison the plants around them with their oil.
how long did it take for the roots to grow on this mulberry tree?
sorry late reply. about two months.
Farmer Jones, Would it be possible to please do a video on syntropic soil preparation before planting? (Or could you please link to a good video that could help with this please ~ Thank you !!)
My video number one covered this but it would be good to refresh yes. will make a note of that for my next row. Cheers
@@farmerjones2766 Farmer Jones, Sorry the earliest video on your channel I can see is video 16 ~ Perhaps check with family over Christmas if they can see your first 15 videos on their devices? Would be awesome to see all your videos ~ They are so informative and your channel deserves lots of views ✅
ruclips.net/video/0Tx9UD8NDeA/видео.html this is my first video go from there
Gday, I often hear people often say (in nz) that eucalyptus can chemically inhibit the growth of other species around them with their leaf drop, do you notice anything like this over there?
So far so good. Mature trees will drop allelopathic oil. The secret is managing them at flower stage (Senescence) to prevent this. They use it to sterilize the ground of competition for their own seeds.
@@farmerjones2766 How long do you plan to keep them for? Do you intend to keep them at a manageable height, purely for biomass?
@@nickdell5859 Yes just for bio mass. The good thing about those species is they droop all those leaves in winter. Just rake up.
@@farmerjones2766 sorry for the endless questions! I'm hoping to do some kind of agroforestry in the near future and have recently heard of syntropic farming. Will the eucalyptus eventually get too high to be managed to prevent flowering? Or do you just keep kind of pollarding it? Cheers mate
@@nickdell5859 Yes Pollarding is usually the answer once over ten meteres. Or as high as you can get a ladder safely. For non Aleopathic species as long as theyre droppig thier leaves at the right time you could possibly let them grow taller.