Just finished doing this on a 04 Infiniti QX56' 128K miles. Wife's car and brakes went out with the kids in the car yesterday, wouldn't drive it until it was fixed. Of course when I restarted the car the brakes were not having the issue. It was the famous class action lawsuit booster. I am no mechanic but I do my own maintenance(I'm cheap)and just did it in my garage. Bought the booster at autozone $159 + 29 core.(only local place with it in stock) lifetime warranty on the remanufactured booster. I didn't have a 13 mm deep socket, a half inch deep socket also fits perfect. I watched the video 2 times and took quick notes on socket sizes, order of process and the booster test at the end. I normally do not review videos but this video was a lifesaver. Took me three and a half hours, and that was with dropping two bolts and stopping for a sandwich. When removing the little white snap in holders that hold the trim piece under the windshield wipers put your hand over them when you pry up or they go a flyin. I would not change any of his steps it was perfect, thank you very much.
I recently purchased a remanufactured Duralast brake booster from Autozone for $204 plus $29 core. It's an A1CARDONE . After installing it, I discovered they gave me a bad one. It was leaking air causing my Armada to idle poorly and the the spring would push the brake pedal back to normal position very slowly. No brake assist at all. I also bought 2 rebuilt axles from A1CARDONE for my Infiniti I35 both of which looked nice and new but were bad upon install. Stay away from A1Cardone. I tried them because they were the cheapest but the products I paid for were junk.
This is the only out of pocket repair in the 20 years that 8 have owned my 2004 Titan. At both times, earlier in my ownership, the dealer did one and then about a year later a regular mechanic did the second because the dealer didn’t guarantee beyond a year. I wished that I RUclipsd as much I have done since because the thousands that I saved in working on our cars through instructional video has been awesome. Even if I had to buy a special tool here and there, it was worth it.
Followed your video too the tee. Replaced my 2013 nissan titan power booster. Stealership quoted me 1k to change it out. Because my sensor was fried. Amazing Nissan is ignoring this problem and chalking it up as just wear and tear. But seems to have fixed the problem so far.
This video was great. I had the job done in 1.5hrs. Only thing i would add is make sure to check if the brake lights are on at the end of the job. I had to go back and adjust where the booster mounted to the pedal(which took 2 mins)
I just did mine an hour ago. Took me about 4 hours to do it. One thing I would advise though is to take the hood out. It has 4 bolts and an easy one man job, reason being is it’s a pain when finally replacing the the new booster back in and you DEFINITELY need the space to wiggle around!!!... also , have a piece of wood or something to push the part into place where the 4 bolts need to get inserted into the brake assembly....this took the most time to figure out, between taking the hood and replacing the new booster....could have been easily a 2 hour job...tops. Thank you though for posting....couldn’t have done it without it...I’ll keep you all posted if this in fact fixes the damn brake issue!!!
Did the pump the brakes thing on and then off and it worked great on my 2018 Nissan Titan. Just had it in the shop Wednesday asking them to look at the spongy brakes. They did a complete bleed and replaced fluid last year and it was good for about 5 months and got spongy again. I told the woman service manager, her answer was they are all like that! Test drive any on the lot. I said if they were like that when I test drove them when I was looking to buy I would not have bought one. I can’t believe the techs don’t know this simple reset. Told my buddy today who was a mechanic for years. First thing he asked was does it have rear disc brakes? I said yes and told him what I did to cure it. He said that just resets the ABS module to take up for the wear on the rear pads. I can tell a huge difference in stopping, the back brakes are engaging on a single push, not a double pump to get good positive stopping power. I could feel the front end really nosing down on a hard stop and the rear end rise. Just backing down my driveway I could feel the difference. Thanks for the great tip. Wish I would have know this trick on my 2004 Dodge I had 15 years. It had the same issue, just pumped the brakes all those years. I hate ABS brakes. Never had that issue on any old car I owned. My wife’s Cadillac SRX is the only one that has been great, rock solid pedal for 5 years. Must self adjust via computer better than others.
Wow!!! Well no wonder this job costs anywhere from $500-$1100 at a shop/dealer. That was tedious! Awesome video. Loved the B-roll footage too! Now to weigh my options if I have the skills or patience to do this myself, or shop around and pay a pro to do it. Or maybe just sell my QX56 cuz I think the catalytic converter going out too... anyways thx for the vid
Thanks for the video, did this job once before on an old Chevy... doing this on an armada is a pain in the neck in comparison. Although to be fair I'm not that great of a mechanic, just Don't trust mechanic shops. I guarantee this gonna take me ten times as long but hey, at least I'm saving some money.
This is a very good video i used this to change the brake booster on 2006 armada it was to the letter it took me 2.5 HRS to change Thanks for video it was a great help
I was reading most of this comment to help me out on my brake issue with my 05 armada. Just wondering hows that yaw sensor working out for you? Im about to burn my truck in pieces
@@chewpaeng12 i didn't want to spend the $800 on the yaw sensor so I bought the knock off from ebay...it fixed the problem but it's been two years...no issues...
I had the problem like everyone. Brake light on with the hard girding when I attempted to stop. The video was great, I just changed the order a little. I went ahead and pulled out the air box and unbelted and pulled the master cylinder forward before pulling the booster.(fixit angel showed that it need to be removed to pull the booster out. I wrote down all wrench sizes. I only had a problem sliding the new booster in which was not shown on the video. There is a metal plate connected to my brake that has holes which need to line up with the hole on the firewall that the booster must come through. I could not line the holes up and push the booster through on my own. Lost hours trying, once I got a friend to push the booster through while I held the plate in place, it slide through in minutes and I only had to bolt it down. Thanks fit-it angel.
Great video, I think I will be doing this soon too. My pedal is very soft during normal driving, so I pump once then it feels better. I had the dealership change and bleed fluid a few months ago, and I think it made it better, but its back to more soft, and having to pump it once to get it firm is becoming a pain.
Hello, I think the problem is your brake master cylinder. If your pedal is hard to push, then you will need to replace the brake booster. Please read the video description.
l just did a 2005 armada, and, l did it ez work, l din't need to remove the ABS module assemble, all l dided was, just loosed a more bolt , it hold up the pedal bracket, and pedal bracket come out of the 4 brake booster bolts under the dash. l take the brake booster out with no problems.
Don't know where you live, but it looks like somewhere it doesn't snow, I wish I lived next to you because I would take my Armada to you, awesome videos without the audio narration THOMBS UP!
Had this exact same problem, took it to Nissan dealer, $1700 and they claimed there was no recall. Later received $400 from class action law suit with my receipt of repair
I have an 04 infiniti Qx56 and mine did the same thing. So I replaced the brake booster using AutoZone parts I purchased the Cardone. Lasted about 2 months and the car is a garage queen to begin with, so I found a site that recommends we replaced the hydraulic pressure sensors that are on the master cylinder you can get them from Amazon, problem went away for 2 months and came back. So all out of ideas took it to 2 Stealerships they ran the scan tool on it and said we cant find any problems but it could be the ABS module or possibly the brake booster but since your using an aftermarket Brake Booster were unable to test it. Which I thought was BS cause the brake booster had all the connections, according to the mechanic he said that while cardone does remanufacture the Brake Booster they dont replace the Delta Sensor inside the Assy as the only way you can obtain this part is in a NEW brake Booster from Nissan, so they said we will reprogram the computer in the vehicle just to see if it helps well it lasted 6 months and once again Brake light is on. Called the Stealership and they said we could start throwing parts at it until the problem goes away, Those were there exact words!! Nice right a car dealer who has no clue on how to repair there own vehicle. So now the car is just sitting in the garage and I have already called Infiniti and NIssan and spoke with there consumer department and they could care less. My first foreign car and absolutely my last I have had Ford,Chevy,Buick,and Pontiac and never had a brake problem. So I'm thinking if I should just offload the truck and get something else or buy an OEM brake booster to see if it corrects the problem.
Darek J What's up, did you correct the issues with the dash brake light on, did you replace both of the sensor that are attached to the master cylinder
It's a good thing you were able to do this job on your own because something telling me this would be a fortune at the dealership. Let me know if you want to do mine.
I don't know other manufacturers, but Nissan seems to intentionally place parts which are difficult to access by layperson, so whenever any parts need replacement, owners have to take it to authorized mechanic. On my Nissan Sunny, it's even difficult to remove one of the two screws on instrument lower panel. Until now I cannot remove the nuts that connect the booster to the master cylinder. The nuts are stuck, but the layout of brake lines make it more difficult to remove them using socket wrench. The procedure is simple, but not the execution, which is really frustrating.
Lex Soft I know another one :Renault, the sister automotive firma of Nissan. Eg right or left blinkers in a Renault megane 2/3 are pain in the a$$.And stealerships just charging you money for nothing
I watched this video a couple times before starting this same job today on an 07 Armada. Figured I'd be coming here to say the same thing ("Removing the cowl pieces seems a bit unnecessary"), but I ended up having to take out the cowl header piece as well. I was able to wrestle out the old booster without removing it, but I felt I was having to push against the AC, vac, and ABS lines that are in front of the booster more than I was comfortable. I perhaps could have wedged the new booster in the same way I got the old one out, but I felt I'd spent more time fighting it trying to cram it in, not to mention possibly damaging something, than I would just removing the cowl pieces. Interestingly enough, the Nissan Factory Service Manual does not say anything about removing/loosening the ABS module or the cowl piece.
How i wish you are here in the Philippines, sad to say ita hard to come by a mechanic that goes by a good diagnosis of whats wrong with the vehicle. Most just say replace this and that, still the problem persists.
Did you need to adjust the push rod on the brake booster? Was it already set at correct length? If so, please explain how it is performed. Thank you. Great video.
Hello Angel, Thanks for the video, it was a great help on my 2004 QX56 infiniti, I have a question for you, on the cluster SLIP, ABS, VDC OFF, BRAKE, 4WD lights are on and they will not turn off, also the car starts shaking very bad passed 45 miles per hour, all this happened at the same time I replaced the booster, once I replaced it I thought it'd go away but it didn't happen. any ideas? this seems to be electrical, I have checked all fuses and all are fine, hope to hear from you. Best,
That was more work than the high pressure power steering hose that I had to replace on my Murano. The dealer wanted $120+ for the hose (which is defective and fails prematurely on many Nissan models) plus another $400 for labor to replace the hose. I installed a good aftermarket hose but I had to remove the plastic cowling to get to the one bolt on the back of the engine. I'm just wondering if there is a sensor in the brake booster that went bad?
Did the brake light turn on while driving??? I have a 2005 Armada and the light comes on sometimes while driving and the brakes do not respond completely and sound as if they are locking up. I saw videos were some suggest it is the brake booster. Did you have similar issues?
@@KFahmawi i took my truck to my local mechanic and ran a diagnostic on it. According to them, The warning light on with DTC C1179 suggest a software update is required. The software update is only available from the dealer. I need to schedule some time and take it in.
Whats up brotha? I notice your oil gauge was high when driving. I have a similar issue with my 04 Armada but its only when Im at a stop and the gauge go low. I remember it used to be in the middle now its always on the low side when im at a stop. Is that normal. I like watching your videos on your page. Keep it up brotha!
These are notorious for the oil pressure sensors to go out. Simple fix and the part is not expensive. It is located right behind the oil filter. RUclips it, there are lots of DIY videos. Replaced mine 8 yrs ago and it's worked ever since.
Just did a Starter on one of these V8 Titans.. They flip out when you tell them $300.00 Labor... As it's under the Intake< Dealers charge $700.00+..............
Is the Delta Stroke Sensor on the Booster brake? I have an error code of E114 Delta Stroke Sensor. Wondering if the sensor can be cleaned or repaired? Or do I need to replace the whole booster assembly?
Dealer told me I had to replace rhe boster because of a bad sensor. Do the sensors come off? that way I could just replace those from the new booster without replacing the whole thing. Thanks
I did this on my 2006 Armada. Installed an aftermarket one and a month later I had the same issue again. Took it to the dealer to get my ECU reset and they did. I thought for sure this was gonna be it. For 600 miles it ran great, no issues. the last two times I drove it in the past three days it has happened to me twice. Brake light turns on and loud grinding noise. Anyone know why this still happens?
Hi, the brake fluid is kept full. It’s never been changed. All i do is make sure it’s filled to the top. I changed the brake pads in the front and the ones in the rear have around 50% like in them left. People tell me this is happening because i didn’t put an OEM one but i don’t think that’s the case. Idk what to do anymore. What else can it be?
That’s good for that guy. Most people want the easiest and fastest repair video to follow. If I took off more than I should, then so what. It’s not like I didn’t know how to put it back. Funny how you point that out. Just want to say, though my repair took longer, what matters is I got the repair done. Thanks for watching.
Wow..nice video. My buddy has a 2012 Altima. When he brakes it work as it should but if he slightly releases some pressure off the pedal to slowly stop the pedal feels weird and it goes down further and the car kinda brakes hard then usual. Like if im coming to a stop sign and step on Brake but i want to readjust the pressure and let off the brake just a tad, the brake will make a click noise and go down further and stop the car harder then normal. But if i keep steady ressure on the brake it wont happen. Brake booster? Or is it master cylinder? Please help!
@@FixItAngel the brake pads and rotors were changed all around today. The front rotors were badly scratched especially the front right one. Im going to try the bleeding next week.
I have a 04 armada 5.6 engine and my brake light would come on and when I try to stop the pedal goes to the floor but when I turn it off and turn it back on goes back to normal what you think?
Cuarto Menguante yep mine is doing the same but once I shut it off then back on it’s fine ,it definitely is a lot of work though,Nissan knows they have a problem but not enough people want to say something about it
did you really need to take out the windshield wiper motor ? looks like you did it for no reason after you took out the intake and moved the master cylinder out the way ?
yes I did. you can try to leave it on and see what happens. there is always a reason why I take off parts. it's my way of doing it and i don't think it's a waste of time. thank you for the question
maybe my rear brakes is noisy not the front cause I change everything.. when I brake(I open the window listen where?) its the rear making the noise....any help? rear brake...thx
You might need new pads or shoes. Depends what thet setup is drum brakes tend to squeak more bc theres no where for that brake dust to go except stay trapped in the drum. Could be glazed pads
Well, you can try to replace it and see what happens. Or you can spend a little more $$ and get it diagnosed to confirm the booster is bad. It's your car, your $$ and your time. I don't want you to be blaming me if that doesn't fix the problem. I can't say it's guaranteed to fix it.
I don't know. Anything can happen. Nothing is guaranteed. I can't predict the future. Parts do fail, sooner or later. THAT IS WHY I TELL YOU TO GET IT DIAGNOSED SINCE YOU ARE SO HESITANT TO REPLACE IT.
Seriously? Do you really need to tear the entire upper weather tray assembly apart, and wipers, etc.? Why made that necessary? Also, why did you reassemble the WHOLE THING before testing it? Man, this was a detailed video but I can not believe this is what it takes to replace the brake booster.
I am just being sarcastic. Yeah it's on top but look how much stuff had to be removed before you get to it, all that covering and plastic. Not knocking you it's Nissan that made it so complicated.
yevgeniy litvinov when the brake pedal goes to floor. The brake master cylinder could be bad. When the brake booster is bad, brake pedal will be hard to push. Was the brake master cylinder replaced?
yeah just replace the brake booster from autozone $93 .. 60 core which seemed a-lot...the xterra is easier to replace the brake booster ... theres only 4 bolts through the firewall... seemed like the problem is solved.. the brake fluid was a little low but couldn't have caused a complete loss of pressure in the brake booster... that was rediculous scraped the side of cars... almost put some people in wheel chairs.... seems like a little rust on bottom of brake booster could have been the reason
+Fix It Angel A few days ago, when pumping the brake pedal, I used heel instead of toe when it got hard to press the pedal. But then I heard a cracking sound that came from under the dashboard. Moments later the pedal was spongy, it went to the floor. I thought I had something broken on the booster. When I did the procedure given by the manual for checking booster operation, I found its operation was alright. I wanted to check the master cylinder. But as I have mentioned in other section, I couldn't do it, because until now I haven't been able to remove all of the nuts on it. The nuts are stuck, I don't want to force-open it due to tight space to adjacent parts. Removing nuts/bolts looks easy for you here in this video, but it's frustrating for me, esp on my car.
+Fit It Angel Thanks for replying. I really want to check it, but as I have said, I couldn't remove it due to its stubborn nuts. It seems that I will give up on doing it myself.
This is by far the best "how to video" on RUclips. I loved the step by step and no shitty music like all the rest. Excellent work!
Ladies and Gentlemen, THIS IS HOW YOU MAKE AN INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO!! Thanks man. excellent job
I just replaced my brake booster on my 2005 Armada with the help from your video. Great job.
Best one handed mechanic ever , not even a curse word ! Thank you for your time !
U don't hear him saying shit and fuck all the time???
Just finished doing this on a 04 Infiniti QX56' 128K miles. Wife's car and brakes went out with the kids in the car yesterday, wouldn't drive it until it was fixed. Of course when I restarted the car the brakes were not having the issue. It was the famous class action lawsuit booster. I am no mechanic but I do my own maintenance(I'm cheap)and just did it in my garage. Bought the booster at autozone $159 + 29 core.(only local place with it in stock) lifetime warranty on the remanufactured booster. I didn't have a 13 mm deep socket, a half inch deep socket also fits perfect. I watched the video 2 times and took quick notes on socket sizes, order of process and the booster test at the end. I normally do not review videos but this video was a lifesaver. Took me three and a half hours, and that was with dropping two bolts and stopping for a sandwich. When removing the little white snap in holders that hold the trim piece under the windshield wipers put your hand over them when you pry up or they go a flyin. I would not change any of his steps it was perfect, thank you very much.
I recently purchased a remanufactured Duralast brake booster from Autozone for $204 plus $29 core. It's an A1CARDONE . After installing it, I discovered they gave me a bad one. It was leaking air causing my Armada to idle poorly and the the spring would push the brake pedal back to normal position very slowly. No brake assist at all. I also bought 2 rebuilt axles from A1CARDONE for my Infiniti I35 both of which looked nice and new but were bad upon install. Stay away from A1Cardone. I tried them because they were the cheapest but the products I paid for were junk.
This is the only out of pocket repair in the 20 years that 8 have owned my 2004 Titan. At both times, earlier in my ownership, the dealer did one and then about a year later a regular mechanic did the second because the dealer didn’t guarantee beyond a year. I wished that I RUclipsd as much I have done since because the thousands that I saved in working on our cars through instructional video has been awesome. Even if I had to buy a special tool here and there, it was worth it.
Damn this is alot of work to change out that brake booster. But you made it look easy! Fix it Angel!!!!
Followed your video too the tee. Replaced my 2013 nissan titan power booster. Stealership quoted me 1k to change it out. Because my sensor was fried. Amazing Nissan is ignoring this problem and chalking it up as just wear and tear. But seems to have fixed the problem so far.
Amazing! The more i watch your videos, the more i want you to fix my car coz i know it will be done right.
This video was great. I had the job done in 1.5hrs.
Only thing i would add is make sure to check if the brake lights are on at the end of the job. I had to go back and adjust where the booster mounted to the pedal(which took 2 mins)
I just did mine an hour ago. Took me about 4 hours to do it. One thing I would advise though is to take the hood out. It has 4 bolts and an easy one man job, reason being is it’s a pain when finally replacing the the new booster back in and you DEFINITELY need the space to wiggle around!!!... also , have a piece of wood or something to push the part into place where the 4 bolts need to get inserted into the brake assembly....this took the most time to figure out, between taking the hood and replacing the new booster....could have been easily a 2 hour job...tops. Thank you though for posting....couldn’t have done it without it...I’ll keep you all posted if this in fact fixes the damn brake issue!!!
Don't take the hood off. It's completely unnecessary. Just follow the video. There is sufficient room.
What was the problem on your nissan ? Did you fix it?
Did the pump the brakes thing on and then off and it worked great on my 2018 Nissan Titan. Just had it in the shop Wednesday asking them to look at the spongy brakes. They did a complete bleed and replaced fluid last year and it was good for about 5 months and got spongy again. I told the woman service manager, her answer was they are all like that! Test drive any on the lot. I said if they were like that when I test drove them when I was looking to buy I would not have bought one. I can’t believe the techs don’t know this simple reset. Told my buddy today who was a mechanic for years. First thing he asked was does it have rear disc brakes? I said yes and told him what I did to cure it. He said that just resets the ABS module to take up for the wear on the rear pads. I can tell a huge difference in stopping, the back brakes are engaging on a single push, not a double pump to get good positive stopping power. I could feel the front end really nosing down on a hard stop and the rear end rise. Just backing down my driveway I could feel the difference. Thanks for the great tip. Wish I would have know this trick on my 2004 Dodge I had 15 years. It had the same issue, just pumped the brakes all those years. I hate ABS brakes. Never had that issue on any old car I owned. My wife’s Cadillac SRX is the only one that has been great, rock solid pedal for 5 years. Must self adjust via computer better than others.
Wow!!! Well no wonder this job costs anywhere from $500-$1100 at a shop/dealer. That was tedious!
Awesome video. Loved the B-roll footage too!
Now to weigh my options if I have the skills or patience to do this myself, or shop around and pay a pro to do it.
Or maybe just sell my QX56 cuz I think the catalytic converter going out too...
anyways thx for the vid
Thanks for the video, did this job once before on an old Chevy... doing this on an armada is a pain in the neck in comparison. Although to be fair I'm not that great of a mechanic, just Don't trust mechanic shops. I guarantee this gonna take me ten times as long but hey, at least I'm saving some money.
This is a very good video i used this to change the brake booster on 2006 armada it was to the letter it took me 2.5 HRS to change Thanks for video it was a great help
Nissan was invented to keep mechanics in business.
Lol no lie my friend 😂👍💯
hi idol im dax frm Phillipines..., ang ganda ng mga gamit sa shop.... go bless you. mabuhay mga pinoy
Thx for the video I watched it then replaced my brake booster with no issues..thx
I had the same problem on my 06 and changed the booster, also the master cylinder... Turns out it's the yaw sensor.... Love your channel...
I was reading most of this comment to help me out on my brake issue with my 05 armada. Just wondering hows that yaw sensor working out for you? Im about to burn my truck in pieces
@@chewpaeng12 i didn't want to spend the $800 on the yaw sensor so I bought the knock off from ebay...it fixed the problem but it's been two years...no issues...
@@Jesvjdm just plug in play? Wheres is it located? Thanks
I had the problem like everyone. Brake light on with the hard girding when I attempted to stop. The video was great, I just changed the order a little. I went ahead and pulled out the air box and unbelted and pulled the master cylinder forward before pulling the booster.(fixit angel showed that it need to be removed to pull the booster out. I wrote down all wrench sizes. I only had a problem sliding the new booster in which was not shown on the video. There is a metal plate connected to my brake that has holes which need to line up with the hole on the firewall that the booster must come through. I could not line the holes up and push the booster through on my own. Lost hours trying, once I got a friend to push the booster through while I held the plate in place, it slide through in minutes and I only had to bolt it down. Thanks fit-it angel.
It's been a year since you made this comment. Have you had any issues since? I've got this going on with my 04 Armada.
@@ttttenney I have the same year? did you replace yours? did it work?
Great video, I think I will be doing this soon too. My pedal is very soft during normal driving, so I pump once then it feels better. I had the dealership change and bleed fluid a few months ago, and I think it made it better, but its back to more soft, and having to pump it once to get it firm is becoming a pain.
Hello, I think the problem is your brake master cylinder. If your pedal is hard to push, then you will need to replace the brake booster. Please read the video description.
l just did a 2005 armada, and, l did it ez work, l din't need to remove the ABS module assemble, all l dided was, just loosed a more bolt , it hold up the pedal bracket, and pedal bracket come out of the 4 brake booster bolts under the dash. l take the brake booster out with no problems.
S reyes im glad to know there is an easy way......i was about to kick the car to tbe curve 😂😂😂😂
S reyes, what's up man, you just toke the brake pedal assembly out in order to take the power booster out for a nissan armada
You're the Man! Bad Bato! Love your videos! Thanks for the excellent Info and How to Training!
Great video.. even though I hated taking everything apart to get that booster out of there.
Don't know where you live, but it looks like somewhere it doesn't snow, I wish I lived next to you because I would take my Armada to you, awesome videos without the audio narration THOMBS UP!
Had this exact same problem, took it to Nissan dealer, $1700 and they claimed there was no recall. Later received $400 from class action law suit with my receipt of repair
I have an 04 infiniti Qx56 and mine did the same thing. So I replaced the brake booster using AutoZone parts I purchased the Cardone. Lasted about 2 months and the car is a garage queen to begin with, so I found a site that recommends we replaced the hydraulic pressure sensors that are on the master cylinder you can get them from Amazon, problem went away for 2 months and came back. So all out of ideas took it to 2 Stealerships they ran the scan tool on it and said we cant find any problems but it could be the ABS module or possibly the brake booster but since your using an aftermarket Brake Booster were unable to test it. Which I thought was BS cause the brake booster had all the connections, according to the mechanic he said that while cardone does remanufacture the Brake Booster they dont replace the Delta Sensor inside the Assy as the only way you can obtain this part is in a NEW brake Booster from Nissan, so they said we will reprogram the computer in the vehicle just to see if it helps well it lasted 6 months and once again Brake light is on. Called the Stealership and they said we could start throwing parts at it until the problem goes away, Those were there exact words!! Nice right a car dealer who has no clue on how to repair there own vehicle. So now the car is just sitting in the garage and I have already called Infiniti and NIssan and spoke with there consumer department and they could care less. My first foreign car and absolutely my last I have had Ford,Chevy,Buick,and Pontiac and never had a brake problem. So I'm thinking if I should just offload the truck and get something else or buy an OEM brake booster to see if it corrects the problem.
Darek J What's up, did you correct the issues with the dash brake light on, did you replace both of the sensor that are attached to the master cylinder
You have access to a scan tool that has ABS?
It's a good thing you were able to do this job on your own because something telling me this would be a fortune at the dealership. Let me know if you want to do mine.
Отличная работа
All those parts have to come off in order to remove the brake booster that's insane
They dont. There is another video showing how to do it without removing all this stuff. pretty simple.
nice vid wow nissan sucks big time to work on.lol
Clean Engine Nissan the best
Thanks for the awesome tutorial!!
You dont need to take the wipers and grill off.
Loosen control module and master cylinder bolts and move them forward.
Thank you for the tip. I will try that next time.
Thank you!
Awesome video Angel, thanks and keep 'em coming!
cool vid dud very helpful love the palm trees
I don't know other manufacturers, but Nissan seems to intentionally place parts which are difficult to access by layperson, so whenever any parts need replacement, owners have to take it to authorized mechanic.
On my Nissan Sunny, it's even difficult to remove one of the two screws on instrument lower panel.
Until now I cannot remove the nuts that connect the booster to the master cylinder. The nuts are stuck, but the layout of brake lines make it more difficult to remove them using socket wrench.
The procedure is simple, but not the execution, which is really frustrating.
Lex Soft I know another one :Renault, the sister automotive firma of Nissan. Eg right or left blinkers in a Renault megane 2/3 are pain in the a$$.And stealerships just charging you money for nothing
was it necessary to remove the wipers and top piece, you still had to take lose the ABS system?
Yes, it was necessary to remove the wiper arms and windshield cowl to access the booster.
I watched this video a couple times before starting this same job today on an 07 Armada. Figured I'd be coming here to say the same thing ("Removing the cowl pieces seems a bit unnecessary"), but I ended up having to take out the cowl header piece as well. I was able to wrestle out the old booster without removing it, but I felt I was having to push against the AC, vac, and ABS lines that are in front of the booster more than I was comfortable. I perhaps could have wedged the new booster in the same way I got the old one out, but I felt I'd spent more time fighting it trying to cram it in, not to mention possibly damaging something, than I would just removing the cowl pieces. Interestingly enough, the Nissan Factory Service Manual does not say anything about removing/loosening the ABS module or the cowl piece.
Great tutorial!!
Good job brother thank you ..
Wicked Angel Wicked 😵👍
How i wish you are here in the Philippines, sad to say ita hard to come by a mechanic that goes by a good diagnosis of whats wrong with the vehicle. Most just say replace this and that, still the problem persists.
Did you need to adjust the push rod on the brake booster? Was it already set at correct length? If so, please explain how it is performed. Thank you. Great video.
You probably didnt watch the whole video. Min 9:05
Hello Angel, Thanks for the video, it was a great help on my 2004 QX56 infiniti, I have a question for you, on the cluster SLIP, ABS, VDC OFF, BRAKE, 4WD lights are on and they will not turn off, also the car starts shaking very bad passed 45 miles per hour, all this happened at the same time I replaced the booster, once I replaced it I thought it'd go away but it didn't happen. any ideas? this seems to be electrical, I have checked all fuses and all are fine, hope to hear from you.
Best,
hi Frank, sorry no idea without a scan tool
That was more work than the high pressure power steering hose that I had to replace on my Murano. The dealer wanted $120+ for the hose (which is defective and fails prematurely on many Nissan models) plus another $400 for labor to replace the hose. I installed a good aftermarket hose but I had to remove the plastic cowling to get to the one bolt on the back of the engine. I'm just wondering if there is a sensor in the brake booster that went bad?
Good video man thanks appreciate it
What would cause you all brakes to hang up. Mater cylinder been replaced and bleed brake switch a caliper any ideas?
You are the man bro! awesome!
Thanks you 👍
Did the brake light turn on while driving??? I have a 2005 Armada and the light comes on sometimes while driving and the brakes do not respond completely and sound as if they are locking up. I saw videos were some suggest it is the brake booster. Did you have similar issues?
Please read video description
It happened to me ones on 2006 titan, did the brake bosster fixed your problem?
@@pumasazulyoro2294 Started to happen on my Nissan Armada 2006. Done twice in last 12 months.
I have that same break issues right now , was this repair due to the same problem ?
@@KFahmawi i took my truck to my local mechanic and ran a diagnostic on it. According to them, The warning light on with DTC C1179 suggest a software update is required. The software update is only available from the dealer. I need to schedule some time and take it in.
YEAA
LAS VEGAS RIGHT I RECOGNIZE THE FREEWAY
Is the process about the same for a nissan 350z? Except having to remove the assembly around the windshield wipers?
would this be the same process to replace 2004 nissan xterra brake booster also?
What the outcome after you replaced it Sir? It’s ok now?
Whats up brotha? I notice your oil gauge was high when driving. I have a similar issue with my 04 Armada but its only when Im at a stop and the gauge go low. I remember it used to be in the middle now its always on the low side when im at a stop. Is that normal. I like watching your videos on your page. Keep it up brotha!
These are notorious for the oil pressure sensors to go out. Simple fix and the part is not expensive. It is located right behind the oil filter. RUclips it, there are lots of DIY videos. Replaced mine 8 yrs ago and it's worked ever since.
tttenney Thanks!
Just did a Starter on one of these V8 Titans.. They flip out when you tell them $300.00 Labor... As it's under the Intake< Dealers charge $700.00+..............
Is the Delta Stroke Sensor on the Booster brake? I have an error code of E114 Delta Stroke Sensor. Wondering if the sensor can be cleaned or repaired? Or do I need to replace the whole booster assembly?
I have only one problem there are three lights on service engine soon , VDC off and Slip light can give any advice plz???
very good!!
Know anything about a delta stroke sensor?
No wonder it's a good vid, he's gotta Toyota service shirt on. I miss those work shirts. Only have one left.
How many hours did the process take you?
good damn 1 handed moechanics....
Que burro es ese mecanico. Tanto desarme inesesario.
Dealer told me I had to replace rhe boster because of a bad sensor. Do the sensors come off? that way I could just replace those from the new booster without replacing the whole thing. Thanks
Hi Jorge, I don't know if the sensors do come off. They should but I never done it.
I did this on my 2006 Armada. Installed an aftermarket one and a month later I had the same issue again. Took it to the dealer to get my ECU reset and they did. I thought for sure this was gonna be it. For 600 miles it ran great, no issues. the last two times I drove it in the past three days it has happened to me twice. Brake light turns on and loud grinding noise. Anyone know why this still happens?
KewlJules hi, how is your brake pads and brake fluid level in the reservoir?
Hi, the brake fluid is kept full. It’s never been changed. All i do is make sure it’s filled to the top. I changed the brake pads in the front and the ones in the rear have around 50% like in them left.
People tell me this is happening because i didn’t put an OEM one but i don’t think that’s the case. Idk what to do anymore. What else can it be?
Hi it just did it again after i made a hard u turn. Do you suggest doing a brake fluid flush?
Smh all that work and you didn’t even have to touch or take the wiper cowel
cowl and wiper removal is not necessary
The front breaks on my frontier are locking up. That’s after replacing both calipers. Could this be the problem? Bad booster?
Hi Richardson, I don't know.
Great video. I think I’ll pay 40$ for the mechanic to do it 🥲
thx
Nice
You don't need to take all that out just remove abs screws and losses brake lines so you can moved little forward and the booster will com out
Did you have to bleed the brakes first
Saw a video of a guy changing his brake booster. He did it without removing any of that.
That’s good for that guy. Most people want the easiest and fastest repair video to follow.
If I took off more than I should, then so what. It’s not like I didn’t know how to put it back. Funny how you point that out. Just want to say, though my repair took longer, what matters is I got the repair done. Thanks for watching.
Fark'n Nissan....they position their components so that it requires extra work to do simply tasks.
Wow..nice video. My buddy has a 2012 Altima. When he brakes it work as it should but if he slightly releases some pressure off the pedal to slowly stop the pedal feels weird and it goes down further and the car kinda brakes hard then usual. Like if im coming to a stop sign and step on Brake but i want to readjust the pressure and let off the brake just a tad, the brake will make a click noise and go down further and stop the car harder then normal. But if i keep steady ressure on the brake it wont happen. Brake booster? Or is it master cylinder? Please help!
b e hello, I think your brake master cylinder is going bad.
But check your brake pads if they are worn. Also try to bleed the brake systemic air.
@@FixItAngel the brake pads and rotors were changed all around today. The front rotors were badly scratched especially the front right one. Im going to try the bleeding next week.
Now why are you leaning more towards the master then the booster? Just asking
b e if you had a bad brake booster it would be very hard to push the brake pedal.
@@FixItAngel gotcha. Thanks for the fast replies!
nice!
I have a 04 armada 5.6 engine and my brake light would come on and when I try to stop the pedal goes to the floor but when I turn it off and turn it back on goes back to normal what you think?
I have that same problem. Im bearly looking for. What this could be. And seems like the brake booster, its too much work for what i see on this video
Cuarto Menguante yep mine is doing the same but once I shut it off then back on it’s fine ,it definitely is a lot of work though,Nissan knows they have a problem but not enough people want to say something about it
Get a head mounted camera please
did you really need to take out the windshield wiper motor ? looks like you did it for no reason after you took out the intake and moved the master cylinder out the way ?
yes I did. you can try to leave it on and see what happens. there is always a reason why I take off parts. it's my way of doing it and i don't think it's a waste of time. thank you for the question
maybe my rear brakes is noisy not the front cause I change everything..
when I brake(I open the window listen where?) its the rear making the noise....any help? rear brake...thx
You might need new pads or shoes. Depends what thet setup is drum brakes tend to squeak more bc theres no where for that brake dust to go except stay trapped in the drum. Could be glazed pads
How many extra parts did you have? Haha I would of had so manyl
You are Doktor
سيارة معقدة وصيانتها كذلك
Niceeeeee 👍🏻 👍🏻 👍🏻
Is this guaranteed that this will fix the problem
Nothing is guaranteed, you can just bring it to a shop and let them diagnose it first.
This is the exact problem that I have going on right now.
Well, you can try to replace it and see what happens. Or you can spend a little more $$ and get it diagnosed to confirm the booster is bad. It's your car, your $$ and your time. I don't want you to be blaming me if that doesn't fix the problem. I can't say it's guaranteed to fix it.
If the brake booster is the problem and it gets replaced, will the problem ever happen again
I don't know. Anything can happen. Nothing is guaranteed. I can't predict the future. Parts do fail, sooner or later. THAT IS WHY I TELL YOU TO GET IT DIAGNOSED SINCE YOU ARE SO HESITANT TO REPLACE IT.
Estás bien güey no nesesitas desmadrar el carro completo para cambiar un boster .Eres novato
Seriously? Do you really need to tear the entire upper weather tray assembly apart, and wipers, etc.? Why made that necessary? Also, why did you reassemble the WHOLE THING before testing it? Man, this was a detailed video but I can not believe this is what it takes to replace the brake booster.
👍🤙
Great Video BUT HOVEHICLE IN FRONT OF YOU
Hola Sr Ángel. Le cuento, si alguien me quiere regalar una camioneta de esas, NO LA RECIBO.
please cut open the bad booster.
I don't know, I think they could have buried it more, not enough shit on top. Geeeez.
buried?? shit on top?? what you talking about? i don't understand. i don't know too. please explain.
I am just being sarcastic. Yeah it's on top but look how much stuff had to be removed before you get to it, all that covering and plastic. Not knocking you it's Nissan that made it so complicated.
01 nissan xterra has a bad brakebooster.... brake pedal goes to the floor... so dangerous scraped the side of cars
yevgeniy litvinov when the brake pedal goes to floor. The brake master cylinder could be bad.
When the brake booster is bad, brake pedal will be hard to push.
Was the brake master cylinder replaced?
yeah just replace the brake booster from autozone $93 .. 60 core which seemed a-lot...the xterra is easier to replace the brake booster ... theres only 4 bolts through the firewall... seemed like the problem is solved.. the brake fluid was a little low but couldn't have caused a complete loss of pressure in the brake booster... that was rediculous scraped the side of cars... almost put some people in wheel chairs.... seems like a little rust on bottom of brake booster could have been the reason
+Fix It Angel
A few days ago, when pumping the brake pedal, I used heel instead of toe when it got hard to press the pedal. But then I heard a cracking sound that came from under the dashboard. Moments later the pedal was spongy, it went to the floor. I thought I had something broken on the booster.
When I did the procedure given by the manual for checking booster operation, I found its operation was alright. I wanted to check the master cylinder. But as I have mentioned in other section, I couldn't do it, because until now I haven't been able to remove all of the nuts on it. The nuts are stuck, I don't want to force-open it due to tight space to adjacent parts.
Removing nuts/bolts looks easy for you here in this video, but it's frustrating for me, esp on my car.
Lex Soft hi Lex, by the information you are telling me, your brake master cylinder is bad. Your seals in the cylinder might have ruptured.
+Fit It Angel
Thanks for replying.
I really want to check it, but as I have said, I couldn't remove it due to its stubborn nuts. It seems that I will give up on doing it myself.
angel can i get your number i need the same to my nissan titan
fnticstic