just a little something to save people time: if you have a switch remover you dont have to take the switch housing out the button. You can just remove the plunger and then use a switch remover to grab the tabs and pull as if you were removing the switch from a keyboard. Edit: if some buttons don't register fully unless you slam on the button. Just stuff abit of tissue in the plunger housing that would sit on the switch stem, had to do this for my boba u4t switches.
This also does work with 24mm buttons, but you have to forcefully push out the plate from the bottom. The terminals may pop out when doing this but they are easily put back with long nose pliers. However, the socket on the Samducksa buttons is broader than that of a Cherry MX compatible keycap. Thus you cannot fully bottom out the switches, since the socket is hitting the frame of the switches. This means that only speed switches which have higher actuation point are working reliably. I have tried blue switches, but half of them where only registering when I fully pushed the buttons, the other half wasn't registering at all. Since I also could not bottom out the switch, the click did not feel very satisfying at all. So basically the Cherry Silver that the buttons come with are the only Cherry switches that make sense in the Crown buttons. There are however several speed switches from manufactures like Kailh that offer haptic or clicky feedback like Cherry Browns or Blues but have a higher actuation point of 1.2mm. These might work better. I ordered a pack of Kailh Speed Bronze which are clicky speed switches and will report if these are better once they arrive.
I'm planning on getting a set of these along side some Kaihl Speed Bronze myself, so I'm looking forward to what you end up finding out from your testing. If all else fails the issue you're describing may be fixed by using some sandpaper on the plunger socket piece, to shave down the piece that comes in contact with the switch housing. But that may end up introducing a whole new set of problems, lol.
The only issue I've heard with speed bronze switches is that the actuation and click are mismatched, where it actuates slightly before it clicks. I'm not sure if the same issue applies to Speed Pale Blue and Speed Navy switches though. I'm mostly looking into this because I want a clickbar switch in these buttons and sadly box switches don't seem to work.
Have both speed bronze and speed pale blue. They seem to work fine, though pale blues are kinda heavy. All three switches you mentioned share the same stem they're just recolored, the differences between them are as follows. Speed Bronze is standard, speed stem with a lighter spring and clickbar. Speed pale blue is a heavier spring version of the bronze with a different colored stem. Speed navy is a heavier spring again with a heavier clickbar and a different colored stem.
@@focusattackcom yeah i was pretty bummed out because the gateron silents are my favorites by far since they dont take much force, react quick and are dead silent in my gamerfinger buttons on the directional buttons on my hitbox, but i wanted the cool colors of the crowns lol
@@darkinertia2 Maybe the spring in the Gaterons isn't quite strong enough to reset the switch with the weight of the plunger on it? Have you tried a switch with a heavier spring?
Is 202C MX compatible with qanba obsidian? Does it's locking ring causes installation issue? Just curious because obsidian's pcb is quite near to button holes
Yes - 30mm buttons fit into the top control panel of the TE2+. More information: support.focusattack.com/hc/en-us/articles/208774716-24mm-vs-30mm-Choosing-the-right-Japanese-Arcade-Button
@@DjEric_Zangief Your best bet is Cherry MX switches like the ones that already come with the SDB 202. We cannot comment on other brands like Kailh as the pins are usually thinner and may have connection issues.
Yes, you can with the 201 and the 202MX. We offer custom artwork with artwork button cuts sized for this model. You can choose the "Crown" option under "Cut Button Inserts For" in each custom artwork listing.
@@focusattackcom Are you able to have plexi and art for custom layouts? I'm going to be getting the hitbox panel replacement for the Hori Rap4 and I wasn't able to find art options for it anywhere.
@@tastykimchiOFDOOM I'm afraid that without the actual drawing specs for such panels I can't reliably offer services for it at the moment, as I cannot confirm proper fitment. I recall that Arts Hobbies had them from Jasen's Customs. While I can't cut the artwork, I can at least print it if you opt for a non-commercial fightstick print. This would allow you to keep the cut guides on the artwork so you can cut it yourself. focusattack.com/non-commercial-fightstick-panel-artwork-print/
@drencoss Sorry - it's not technically possible to do that without some heavy mods, especially as the top plunger is not compatible. I hear Paradise Arcade shop has some kind of hybrid OBSF, MX mod that uses their own caps and a small PCB with wired terminal output. However you can't swap the switches out in that mod; you have to buy a new PCB.
Around 3:54, you can see that a lock is released to get the switch out. Pushing up from the bottom tends to push the switch plate up, along with the terminals, which are not connected to the base. Installing the terminals back into the base is difficult given their size. The method explained in the video keeps the switch plate on the base while you remove the switch.
![Tee Grizzley - Detroit (Feat. 42 Dugg) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aeKfTtt0x14/mqdefault.jpg)
just a little something to save people time:
if you have a switch remover you dont have to take the switch housing out the button. You can just remove the plunger and then use a switch remover to grab the tabs and pull as if you were removing the switch from a keyboard.
Edit: if some buttons don't register fully unless you slam on the button. Just stuff abit of tissue in the plunger housing that would sit on the switch stem, had to do this for my boba u4t switches.
literally about to type the same thing
This also does work with 24mm buttons, but you have to forcefully push out the plate from the bottom. The terminals may pop out when doing this but they are easily put back with long nose pliers.
However, the socket on the Samducksa buttons is broader than that of a Cherry MX compatible keycap. Thus you cannot fully bottom out the switches, since the socket is hitting the frame of the switches. This means that only speed switches which have higher actuation point are working reliably. I have tried blue switches, but half of them where only registering when I fully pushed the buttons, the other half wasn't registering at all. Since I also could not bottom out the switch, the click did not feel very satisfying at all. So basically the Cherry Silver that the buttons come with are the only Cherry switches that make sense in the Crown buttons. There are however several speed switches from manufactures like Kailh that offer haptic or clicky feedback like Cherry Browns or Blues but have a higher actuation point of 1.2mm. These might work better.
I ordered a pack of Kailh Speed Bronze which are clicky speed switches and will report if these are better once they arrive.
I'm planning on getting a set of these along side some Kaihl Speed Bronze myself, so I'm looking forward to what you end up finding out from your testing.
If all else fails the issue you're describing may be fixed by using some sandpaper on the plunger socket piece, to shave down the piece that comes in contact with the switch housing. But that may end up introducing a whole new set of problems, lol.
The only issue I've heard with speed bronze switches is that the actuation and click are mismatched, where it actuates slightly before it clicks. I'm not sure if the same issue applies to Speed Pale Blue and Speed Navy switches though. I'm mostly looking into this because I want a clickbar switch in these buttons and sadly box switches don't seem to work.
Have both speed bronze and speed pale blue.
They seem to work fine, though pale blues are kinda heavy.
All three switches you mentioned share the same stem they're just recolored, the differences between them are as follows.
Speed Bronze is standard, speed stem with a lighter spring and clickbar.
Speed pale blue is a heavier spring version of the bronze with a different colored stem.
Speed navy is a heavier spring again with a heavier clickbar and a different colored stem.
@@natebradley9481 So I take it they still have the same issue where the actuation and click are mismatched?
Honestly I'm not sure, the click happens near the very top of the press with the speed series clickies.
Thank you for the video. I will put blue microswitch in these later on.
Nice, Great Tutorial video, gamerfingers might not ship to my country so samducksa might be my only option for MX Blue Cherry switches
yow, this video helped me fix my 202s
good shit
Oh snap. Gonna put some lubed pandas to match my wasd on mixbox.
Mechanically Legit.
Do you know of any concave american style plungers that work with this?
I tried to use my gateron silents and they didnt work, they seem to squeeze the sides and end up getting stuck buttons
I see - perhaps Samducksa's housing is designed solely for Cherry MX or those with a near exact build. I don't own the Gaterons to check at this time.
@@focusattackcom yeah i was pretty bummed out because the gateron silents are my favorites by far since they dont take much force, react quick and are dead silent in my gamerfinger buttons on the directional buttons on my hitbox, but i wanted the cool colors of the crowns lol
@@darkinertia2 Maybe the spring in the Gaterons isn't quite strong enough to reset the switch with the weight of the plunger on it? Have you tried a switch with a heavier spring?
can you install led lighting into Crown 202s?
yes. there are tiny sets of holes on opposite sides of the base for led wires to slide through for the purpose of installing leds.
Is it compatible with plate mounted cherry switches? Those are the only ones I can find
Based on the video, you must have plate-mounted, or trim the mounting pins for PCB-mounted switches.
@@Zevaeros does it use regular Cherry MX like on mechanical keyboards? thanks in advance
@@sidusize Yes, but I've found them somewhat picky in what brands they'll accept. Cherry and Kailh Speed series seem good.
Is 202C MX compatible with qanba obsidian? Does it's locking ring causes installation issue? Just curious because obsidian's pcb is quite near to button holes
Has anybody in here ever tried these with mx blacks?
Can you put the mx switch in the sdb-201's?
Anyone know if switches with a box or circle around the stem would fit
No they don't. The cap inside has to match with plus shape.
Since it's 30mm button does it fit in MadCatz TE2+ ?
Yes - 30mm buttons fit into the top control panel of the TE2+. More information: support.focusattack.com/hc/en-us/articles/208774716-24mm-vs-30mm-Choosing-the-right-Japanese-Arcade-Button
Can I install Kailh Low Profile (Choc) inside the 24mm ?
Afraid not - these are completely incompatible with the Kailh low profile Choc microswitch
@@focusattackcom So what 24mm housing I cound use to put into a hitbox? Thanks for the fast response
@@DjEric_Zangief Your best bet is Cherry MX switches like the ones that already come with the SDB 202. We cannot comment on other brands like Kailh as the pins are usually thinner and may have connection issues.
Can i put Kailh Speed clicky There ?
Yes you can.
Is it possible to put custom art in the plunger?
Yes, you can with the 201 and the 202MX. We offer custom artwork with artwork button cuts sized for this model. You can choose the "Crown" option under "Cut Button Inserts For" in each custom artwork listing.
@@focusattackcom Are you able to have plexi and art for custom layouts? I'm going to be getting the hitbox panel replacement for the Hori Rap4 and I wasn't able to find art options for it anywhere.
@@tastykimchiOFDOOM I'm afraid that without the actual drawing specs for such panels I can't reliably offer services for it at the moment, as I cannot confirm proper fitment. I recall that Arts Hobbies had them from Jasen's Customs.
While I can't cut the artwork, I can at least print it if you opt for a non-commercial fightstick print. This would allow you to keep the cut guides on the artwork so you can cut it yourself. focusattack.com/non-commercial-fightstick-panel-artwork-print/
@@focusattackcom Thanks so much for the help, I really appreciate the advice!
@drencoss Sorry - it's not technically possible to do that without some heavy mods, especially as the top plunger is not compatible. I hear Paradise Arcade shop has some kind of hybrid OBSF, MX mod that uses their own caps and a small PCB with wired terminal output. However you can't swap the switches out in that mod; you have to buy a new PCB.
cool but to hell with that cherry stuff. moyu for tactile alpachas for linear
Lmfao why remove the base...makes no sense. There is a hole under the base to push mechanical switch out 🤣
Around 3:54, you can see that a lock is released to get the switch out. Pushing up from the bottom tends to push the switch plate up, along with the terminals, which are not connected to the base. Installing the terminals back into the base is difficult given their size. The method explained in the video keeps the switch plate on the base while you remove the switch.
@@focusattackcom It's definitely easier to slide the keys back in once the base is out as well