Great video, about to fit one for my lazy spa, is it best to spur into a socket/fused switch or just plug on the end and plug into the identified socket? Thanks in advance
By using this socket plugged in to another socket.. Can I use any kind of appliance on it.. Like a hot tub.. As it says I can use an extention with a hot tub. Need to be a main socket.. So can I just do this?
I've seen a lot of bricks that have had huge chunks busted from them, so switching off the hammer action for the last 2 inches seems to prevent it- although it is difficult drilling the last bit without the hammer action. Thanks for the comment ;-)
I'd give a try to be honest, it's much better than bursting a huge hole on the exterior of the property. Perhaps if you go through with a small diameter bit first, then a larger diameter bit, it will make it easier. Thanks for the comment
Well, the simplest thing to do is drill from the outside then. It's only block on the inner.. No need at all to drill it from the inside. Just commonsense.
It's pretty pointless tbh considering the socket box is going to cover any blow out anyway so no one is going to see it! Whats more important is angling the holes correctly then you don't need to mess about with any silicon nonsense, gravity is your friend!
Excellent. As a matter of Safety it is often noted that these outdoor sockets (with our without RCD) are not recommended for power tools as they can be working at switched on outside but if a breaker trips and one goes inside and resets the breaker the power tool with re-energise. They are more recommended for items with internal moving parts like deep freezes or fountain pumps. That said who would not use one for garden appliances?!! A note on these lines. It is a bit like PAR testing when you have to have the item (circular saw...) on to test it and it comes live and moving during the test!
For what purpose is this done? Instructions from BG seem to imply that this is only needed if metal conduit is used. Can't get my head around needing to earth to a plastic box.
Just used this as a definitive guide to installing one of these units. Thanks for the time & effort in putting this in the public domain. Take good care and stay safe and well.
A very handy video. I was thinking installing an outside plug but I couldn't find any reliable information about if it is OK to install myself or if I needed an electrician to do it. Looks like wiring it up to the plug is the easier solution.
I'm more worried about some smack head plugging something in to trip the RCD, which can take out the power to security camera's and alarms etc. ;-) Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Remember if you just switch it off most sockets have a single pole switch (switches live conductor only) so the RCD could still be tripped by shorting Neutral to Earth so it is a good idea to unplug if this is to be prevented.
@@ultimatehandyman one thing abought being in the usa are rcds can be just for one outlet or a whole ring from breaker mine for example is an outlet in basement daisy chained to standared outlet with water tight enclosure outside. ya found some pple charging phones just went to basement hit test switch no more power a few had the nerve to ask if i cld reset because they accidently triped i laughed and told them to plse take hint and leave im done being nice
Great video, I’m glad to see I correctly fitted the socket I recently fitted in my mother’s garden. Just a word of caution when fitting this type of socket, not all plugs will allow you to close the door fully, the plugs with power breakers will not push fully into the socket, might be worth trying the plug first before you begin installing the socket.
@@ultimatehandyman I know it's an old comment, but I have just fallen foul of this. The LAP branded ones from screwfix won't allow any moulded plugs with a strain relied "collar" on them at all. But the BG sockets (B&Q also sell it under the Diall brand) are quite generous.
Cushty! Just fitted the same box to my outside wall to run our new water feature. Followed your instructions to the letter and it's now burbling away beautifully. Nice and simple for an idiot like me and I didn't electrocute myself once. Thank you! Oh and I didn't get brickwork burst. More luck than judgement because I forgot to turn the hammer action off.......;-)
Good video, only criticism is that whenever you drill holes from inside to out ALWAYS slightly angle the hole downwards (from the video it looks like you are slightly angled UP) By slightly angling the hole downwards (from internal --> external) this will allow gravity to prevent any water from working its way inwards
Use of the pipe is excellent. Just a note about using silicone sealant in a box that is to be air tight (another reason for drilling out the drain hole, as well as condensation) is that if it is the cheaper acid silicone, it can seriously corrode metal in an enclosed space. Note sure how long you would need to leave acid silicone to fully cure but best using non-corrosive silicone in an airtight space if fitting cover quickly.
Just wanted to say thanks very much, mate. Used the same socket (£10.99 from Screwfix atm), 15mm PEX pipe, 600mm SDS plus masonry bit and it was installed with ease. Sealed the full unit with clear silicone, so hopefully completely waterproof for years to come. Thanks again.
I've been asked to install 2 double external WP sockets by a customer of mine, I just wanted to check the best procedure, this video is excellent, and in all fairness I may've been overthinking it. I've installed loads of outdoor security lights and basically fitted a fused spur right next to an internal power socket and cabled from there, no cables showing inside or out. I never considered coming in near a socket and just using flex (instead of twin/earth), I was more planning to drill out of the back of an interior socket so no wire shows.
The wall fixing screws on my back box broke the plastic a little so it was necessary to put some small metal washers around the holes. Excellent video mine is rock sold on the wall.
Too bloody late! I did this job last weekend!!!..... I fitted an outside box and ran cable to a distribution box in my shed via rubber cable protector strip. Same outside box as yours and after spending about 20 minutes in B&Q working out what cable I needed I chose the 1.5mm Pond cable which was a bugger to shut in the box due to a much thicker sheathing. Also I didn't use a piece of tubing so faffed around for ages getting the cable through my brick wall and also shed which is double lined with rock wool in between. I did think about getting some tubing but B&Q is miles away and I'd had enough of looking like a complete zombie shuffling up and down the plethora of different cables. So after quite a fight trying to attach the cable to BBQ skewers, drill bits etc and cussing that we don't have wire coat hangers any more these days I managed it and then began a snake fight with the heavy duty rubber trunking as I was laying it out to cut to length on the patio slabs. Anyway all ended well without too many bruises or shocks (my wife quite likes my new spikey hairdo) and my shed now enjoys charging my bike batteries etc and I no longer trip on the previous extension lead. I intend to do the job again in the summer with thinner sheathed cable as I feel a bit of an expert today as most of what I did concurs with your method. :) Take care
I filmed this last summer, but it took me days to edit the footage and I have been really struggling for the time to do it! It sounds like you had fun in B&Q ;-) Thanks for the comment
Thank you for the video. Need to install these at work tomorrow and this helped greatly. Thought it would be more complicated than this when they brought in a bunch of these sockets I was actually about to tell them to get an electrician.
This video is aimed at DIY'ers doing work at home. For jobs like this at work, your employer should be getting professional electricians in to do the installations ;-) Thanks for the comment 👍
BIG bonus! I'd actually bought this very unit so it was really acurate. Will be able to fit it now without worries. Excellent channel, thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge. Been subbed to your channel a long time now and you've helped me out before. Thanks again UH
Good job, handy instructional video for diyers however as an electrician I have to say that the conductors were not long enough as I'm sure you would have screwed down onto the insulation in the socket which is a no no and also drill out the drain hole.
I can confirm that no conductors were harmed during the making of this video, perhaps it is difficult to see, but I did cut a fair amount of insulation from the conductors. Thanks for the comment
You forgot to drill out the drain hole in the base of the socket to let out condensstion. Personally id sooner get a spark to certify the job and hardwire it with a fused spur switch. That said what youve done will work and could be hardwired at a later date.
Just discovered this video - exactly what I needed thanks!! Also, nice to see someone else has those bloody awful house bricks too! They do love to eat drill bits - well mine do anyway. Cheers
I did this on the front of my house so that I can use the vacuum cleaner and power tools on my car. The only thing I did different was I covered the end of the plastic pipe with insulating tape, then I sprayed expanding foam into the hole and pushed the pipe through before it dried, this helps to seal it in place.
Thanks for a very helpful video. A have exactly the same electrical outdoor socket which I fitted today without any problems at all thanks to your video!!... 👍😀🇬🇧
Another good video, UH, for which many thanks. As I've said before, you're a pretty good leccie and your work is always done to a high standard. If I have any adverse opinion, it concerns British General kit; I've never much liked it myself, but each to his own - well done.
@@ultimatehandyman Hello again. BG kit has always seemed a bit flimsy to me, but then when I was an apprentice we used a lot of Bill gear - and that was really robust (and damned heavy!) I have used MK Masterseals with no trouble at all, but they do cost about twice what you pay for BG. I suppose it's a case of getting what you pay for, and I've never gone wrong with MK gear. Keep on making you videos - they are very good.
I had a few problems with these but not through any incompetence on my part, but moreso iffy design decisions on the unit itself. Firstly i followed the advice of ppl who suggested not to drill out the drainage hole because it would compromise the IP rating. Unfortunately by not drilling out the drainage hole, the unit filled up with condensation and water after a 3-day downpour during the summer despite me sealing the unit against the top and sides of the wall. Sadly the socket was dead after that. The second unit fared better after I'd drilled out the drainage hole, but i still noticed drops of rainwater had made their way into the unit via the tiny gaps where the top hinges of the cover were joined to the main housing. Were it not for the inner rubber seal, I'd have lost another one of these. But upon closer inspection i don't think the rubber seal is up to much either 😅. Let's see how long my luck holds out.
Great video once again. Those clips securing the front cover are a weak spot mine didn’t last. Company didn’t stock spare ones and suggested buying a new case. 😡
@@wakajawaka44 It's required in the IFU to drill the drainage hole at the rear. The IP rating is still adequate for outdoor use and the hole is shrouded to prevent water ingress.
@@wakajawaka44 new to me "fitted to manufacturers instructions" seems to supersede must regs and it does have a clearly marked drainage hole but I stand corrected
Another excellent video. One of my best subscribed channels for honest reviews and cracking info which is a bonus as its from the UK. Thanks for your videos. Makes sundays better! 👍
Aprreciate your videos and always good content pal. Little tip strip back more on your conductors and then double over as you are definitely pinching down on the insulation when you connect up ass there was not enough copper showing
Possibly add a cable tie where the wire enters the box, to prevent the wires pulling out of the socket plate, if the plug lead gets pulled from inside. Also I leave the earth longer, so if pulling does tear a wire loose the earth is last to go.
Just did that last week with same BG socket - only thing I did which I shouldn’t have was screw through the interval 4 black gaskets - didn’t realise they were just to cover the screws lol I shouldn’t have read the manual!
Some kind of strain relief or gland should be used to stop the flex being ripped out of the back of the outside socket from inside. Especially if the flex isn’t going to be attached to the wall travelling up to the socket inside.
Holy crap, your timing is impeccable! I was just about to search YT on how to install an external socket, but your video was suggested to me, even before I did my search. Please tell me, from where did you learn your Jedi mind-reading tricks?
This makes a nice change, the last time a video popped up as a suggestion for some guy, he was really pissed because RUclips suggested the wrong video - so he gave the video a thumbs down and a comment to say that he'd given me a thumbs down because RUclips had suggested the wrong video to him ;-) Thanks for the comment
Another great video. I use the rcd on it as well when using the mover but it's a tad large and sometimes you can't fit it in with the flap so I have to take the front flap off.
Thank you so much for another comprehensive video. I was going to install a separate RCD inside but you saved me much cash and time. Q1. Would it not better to use a 2.5mm wire than a 1.5mm wire. I have been told to use a 2.5 mm wire for sockets and 1.5mm for lights. Which size is correct, please? Q2. What is the best way to illuminate a wooden workshop/ shed, please? Best wishes
Instead of a 13 amp plug You could remove the existing socket and put another box below the socket with trunking between the 2 and drill through the back of the second box you added inside to outside This allows the socket to be wired into the circuit by use of a Fused connection unit or FCU which you made a video on how to install and to isolate the outdoor socket all you need to do is remove the fuse in the fuse connection unit below the indoor socket and no power can get outside for anyone to use because if the fuse is removed there will be no power
Really good video thank you ! Even though your installation is RCD protected I think I will still pay the extra £10 for the RCD version of that box or maybe just the £10 RCD 'plug' on the inside socket.
If you place an RCD on an already protected RCD circuit it can cause nuisance tripping and also completely unnecessary. How did you get on if I may ask as your comment was a long time ago. Thanks
nice video ... very clear... but you didnt drill out the drain hole. Also.. what is the reason for connecting an earth wire to the plastic box connecter? (please don't say best practice :) )
Regs change regularly, and so the video could soon be outdated. Electrical regulations, recommendations and the Law is a sure fire way of starting arguments ;-) Thanks for the comment
It’s a 3 day course for an time served qualified electrician (registered with the NICEIC) to update to the 18th edition of the wiring regs. It would be a mighty long video
Hi, great video and just what I was looking for as I am finding it difficult to get a trades person to take on such a small job, so I am going to try myself. It would be good if you listed the materials and equipment you used in the description. I appreciate some of it is obvious but stuff like PEX Pipe and the exact type of Wire (Flex) including rating would be useful.
You might have to notify your local council if you do that, also you can unplug the socket when you go on holiday. This is mega important if you have RCD protected circuits, as a thief could plug something into the socket to trip the RCD Thanks for the comment 👍
In my opinion this was a really good video of a job well done. My only question came right at the end. Why wouldn't you wire this right into the circuit instead of using a plug? I guess if you're really worried about a neighbor stealing power it would help but there are other ways to control that from inside.
The reason to make it unpluggable, is so that nobody can trip the RCD for the socket circuit, as the burglar alarm and CCTV camera's are likely to be disabled ;-) Thanks for the comment 👍
A builder I once worked for had his external power point used to cut into his garage doors, they took £8,000 pounds worth of tools and his pump Too, make sure you also install a kill switch inside the building to any power points outside - no point in providing a burglar with any assistance
Just a quick question, I’m planning to fit some garden lights. I don’t want to have to go to the garage every time I want to switch on. My plan was - plug, 5 amp fuse, 1mm2 outdoor cable (I’ve checked that this is suitable) then rather than use an outdoor switch use a waterproof fused spur with switch. Input is obviously my cable from the plug. Output is my 10w led switch ! Yes it is definitely a 10w led floodlight. It means I can turn it on halfway between the house floodlight which doesn’t reach the garage and this new floodlight will cover the rest of the wag to the garage. If I want a second floodlight can I connect it to the same fused spur under the output so two 10 watt floodlights , and therefore two lives, two neutrals and two earths all on the output Or a cable goes to the first floodlight from the output of waterproof switched fuse spur, in this first floodlight where the cables connect to the light to make it live can I just run a suitable cable from the first floodlight input thus having power Go to it . Third option is wire from output of fused spur then to a junction box split two ways, feeding the each floodlight.
One small point if I may, I never fully remove a long thin drill bit from masonry until it has stopped rotating. Drill shafts are not always made from material which resists the heat generated when drilling hard materials such as engineering bricks or dense concrete. On one occasion as I removed a still rotating bit it bent through a right angle and struck my neck, hard. Had it been at full rotation speed I could have been decapitated. As it was I got a bruise and a real fright! Also, you didn’t drill out the drain hole at the bottom of the back box. Not intending to criticise, it was a helpful video, I was not aware of the st/st fronted boxes.
Hi, I found this very helpful, I need a socket in the garden, down the bottom of the garden which is quite a way. I was thinking one of these would be handy. But I don't know what I need - but this was helpful, You should list at the bottom of your videos what you bought and used. # Is this for UK # What cable is needed to extend down to the bottom of the garden. # Will I be able to feed the electric cable down a plastic pipe. # Plus, I notice you don't want to blow the brick outside, but you didn't say how you drilled in from both sides when you can't see where the inside drill is appearing outside. How do you do that ? thanks
Instead of using a plug to the indoor socket, could I just split off the live, neutral and earth inside the socket so that I can still use the socket indoors (leaving the outdoor socket live)? Obviously bearing in mind not to overload the socket. Thanks
You could, but then the installation would need testing and signing off by your local council, or the job would need doing by an approved electrician (which is why I used the plug) Thanks for the comment 👍
I'm just trying to replace an existing outdoor socket. There's a wire that comes from somewhere in the house, it's gonna have to run into the socket from underneath. There's a kind of seal thingy at the bottom of the existing one however it uses a metal nut which is completely rusted to disintegration. The new plug doesn't come with any seal or anything, how can I run the garden wire into the bottom of the new plug and make it water tight? Thanks.
If there is an earthing point I normally connect an earth wire to it. You can imagine the comments I'd get if I had not connected anything to it 🤓 Thanks for the comment
@@Pooneil1984 Just a thought but it could be that a plastic box can become conductive if there is any condensation (or any other moisture) on or in it.
Nice video and shows some very good practices in respect of sealing and protection. I would however never wire in a 'double socket' as a radial (single wire) The internal small power socket is on a ring and so I would open that up in the existing box and continue it to the new ext box (1 cable in and 1 cable out) and then connect the wires with suitable rated blocks to join back to the ring wires. (all inside the existing box oor if there wasnt room add an addition (abutting immediately adjacent or below with a blanking plate and label accordingly what it was. )Wiring as a spur like this I would really only use it for a 'single gang' external socket. I know that the amp draw from external devices will rarely ever be high enough to worry about (but you dont know what users after you will use it for) but still seems like better practice to me so as to guarantee the circuit will never be overloaded (>13amps) Similarly using 1.5mm is maybe unwise and using min 2.5mm as the internal ring wiring would be more prudent ? anyone have any opinions on this also ? I am not an electrician but a very competent DIYer/self builder so normally er n the cautious side.
Ok so I have had another look and the 1.5mm 3 core cable you used is indeed good for 13Amp max so as its wired to a single plug with a 13A fuse that would be fine as a radial install as you have done as the twin socket s cannot be overloaded without tripping the ring RCD or blowing the fuse. Also as its not permanently connected to the small power mains ring it does not fall under AD:Part P and so does not need to be fitted by an electrician or approved by Building Control. So all in all well done ! The method I described is a permanent install (an extension of the mains ring) and so indeed falls under Part P.
It depends how you are supplying the cable to it. I went through the back and sealed the hole (no chance of water ingress). If I use a gland, I always put the gland on the bottom of the socket (never the side or the top) 👍
If you want it hard wired in, call in one of us reg'd sparkies. This way you won't see any unsightly wires. Plus you'll have full use of both internal sockets. You'll also have a better load rating along with a cert. With the flick of a switch on a spur you can turn on/off your external socket/s 🤗
This video took me a couple of days to edit, I hope some people find it useful 😉
I hope everyone has a great Sunday
Thank you for the video!
Hey Chez, It's Heidi from Heiditranslates, if you need any subtitles let me know email me at h26designs [at] gmail
Hope you had a good weekend to matey. 😉
Great video, about to fit one for my lazy spa, is it best to spur into a socket/fused switch or just plug on the end and plug into the identified socket? Thanks in advance
By using this socket plugged in to another socket.. Can I use any kind of appliance on it.. Like a hot tub.. As it says I can use an extention with a hot tub. Need to be a main socket.. So can I just do this?
Very good tip regarding turning the hammer action off just
before going through the external brickwork. Never thought of that!
I've seen a lot of bricks that have had huge chunks busted from them, so switching off the hammer action for the last 2 inches seems to prevent it- although it is difficult drilling the last bit without the hammer action.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman I won't bother trying it on Engineering brick then!
I'd give a try to be honest, it's much better than bursting a huge hole on the exterior of the property.
Perhaps if you go through with a small diameter bit first, then a larger diameter bit, it will make it easier.
Thanks for the comment
Well, the simplest thing to do is drill from the outside then. It's only block on the inner.. No need at all to drill it from the inside. Just commonsense.
It's pretty pointless tbh considering the socket box is going to cover any blow out anyway so no one is going to see it!
Whats more important is angling the holes correctly then you don't need to mess about with any silicon nonsense, gravity is your friend!
Excellent. As a matter of Safety it is often noted that these outdoor sockets (with our without RCD) are not recommended for power tools as they can be working at switched on outside but if a breaker trips and one goes inside and resets the breaker the power tool with re-energise. They are more recommended for items with internal moving parts like deep freezes or fountain pumps. That said who would not use one for garden appliances?!! A note on these lines. It is a bit like PAR testing when you have to have the item (circular saw...) on to test it and it comes live and moving during the test!
Good job Earthing the plastic backbox, many people forget to do that, glad you're showing such attention to detail!
👍
For what purpose is this done? Instructions from BG seem to imply that this is only needed if metal conduit is used. Can't get my head around needing to earth to a plastic box.
Another great video. I love the thorough approach of your work.
Thanks, Roger ;-)
Just used this as a definitive guide to installing one of these units. Thanks for the time & effort in putting this in the public domain. Take good care and stay safe and well.
Glad it helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
WOW - I wish we had cool outlet/covers like this in the USA. Ours are VERY plain by comparison. Very nice!
Yes, the BG ones over here are quite smart.
Thanks for the comment
you cld do like i did and get some looks buy em with matching plugs nothing wrong with 120v on a 220v plug lol
A very handy video. I was thinking installing an outside plug but I couldn't find any reliable information about if it is OK to install myself or if I needed an electrician to do it. Looks like wiring it up to the plug is the easier solution.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
great point about it being able to be switched off, or come back and find the neighbour has been running fan heaters all winter from your power :)
I'm more worried about some smack head plugging something in to trip the RCD, which can take out the power to security camera's and alarms etc. ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for the info ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman Remember if you just switch it off most sockets have a single pole switch (switches live conductor only) so the RCD could still be tripped by shorting Neutral to Earth so it is a good idea to unplug if this is to be prevented.
@@ultimatehandyman one thing abought being in the usa are rcds can be just for one outlet or a whole ring from breaker mine for example is an outlet in basement daisy chained to standared outlet with water tight enclosure outside. ya found some pple charging phones just went to basement hit test switch no more power a few had the nerve to ask if i cld reset because they accidently triped i laughed and told them to plse take hint and leave im done being nice
Another great video, Best diy videos on RUclips ....Thanks
Thanks for the comment
Great video, I’m glad to see I correctly fitted the socket I recently fitted in my mother’s garden. Just a word of caution when fitting this type of socket, not all plugs will allow you to close the door fully, the plugs with power breakers will not push fully into the socket, might be worth trying the plug first before you begin installing the socket.
Thanks for the info ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman I know it's an old comment, but I have just fallen foul of this. The LAP branded ones from screwfix won't allow any moulded plugs with a strain relied "collar" on them at all. But the BG sockets (B&Q also sell it under the Diall brand) are quite generous.
I've been watching these for years and I still love all your attention to detail. So many great tips, wish I saw the pros do it this well!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Cushty! Just fitted the same box to my outside wall to run our new water feature. Followed your instructions to the letter and it's now burbling away beautifully. Nice and simple for an idiot like me and I didn't electrocute myself once. Thank you! Oh and I didn't get brickwork burst. More luck than judgement because I forgot to turn the hammer action off.......;-)
Good video, only criticism is that whenever you drill holes from inside to out ALWAYS slightly angle the hole downwards (from the video it looks like you are slightly angled UP)
By slightly angling the hole downwards (from internal --> external) this will allow gravity to prevent any water from working its way inwards
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Yep I've been installing telecoms for 40 years and that has always been the directive.
Everyone's a critic eh. Good video just leave it like that, sure he isn't an amateur
A great guide through the steps to fit the socket. Simple, but also has all the details you need.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Use of the pipe is excellent. Just a note about using silicone sealant in a box that is to be air tight (another reason for drilling out the drain hole, as well as condensation) is that if it is the cheaper acid silicone, it can seriously corrode metal in an enclosed space. Note sure how long you would need to leave acid silicone to fully cure but best using non-corrosive silicone in an airtight space if fitting cover quickly.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Another easy follow presentation! You are a gem I wish I had a teacher like you in school 👍 thank you 👌👏
Wow, thank you!
Well explained. It is very helpful , especially for DIYers like myself . Thanks
Just wanted to say thanks very much, mate.
Used the same socket (£10.99 from Screwfix atm), 15mm PEX pipe, 600mm SDS plus masonry bit and it was installed with ease.
Sealed the full unit with clear silicone, so hopefully completely waterproof for years to come.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I've been asked to install 2 double external WP sockets by a customer of mine, I just wanted to check the best procedure, this video is excellent, and in all fairness I may've been overthinking it. I've installed loads of outdoor security lights and basically fitted a fused spur right next to an internal power socket and cabled from there, no cables showing inside or out. I never considered coming in near a socket and just using flex (instead of twin/earth), I was more planning to drill out of the back of an interior socket so no wire shows.
Very informative high quality video 👍🤓👍
Thanks Wayne 👍
The wall fixing screws on my back box broke the plastic a little so it was necessary to put some small metal washers around the holes. Excellent video mine is rock sold on the wall.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Super video. Clear instructions. Simple to follow. Great focus on safety.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very useful thank you. Less complicated than I thought
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much for that. You've made what I thought might have been a daunting job much simpler and I am confident that I can do it myself.
Glad I could help!
Thanks for the comment
Excellent video of how to......I used it today to wire and fit my external socket. Bang on, thanks
Thanks for the comment 👍
Really good video. Thank you. I'll be doing this on the rear of my house as I have a plug under my worktop near the wall it'll go into nicely.
Thanks for the comment
Big thank you, watched your video and it gave me the confidence to tackle the job myself.
Only took me a couple of hours, taking my time. 😀
Glad it helped 👍
Too bloody late! I did this job last weekend!!!..... I fitted an outside box and ran cable to a distribution box in my shed via rubber cable protector strip.
Same outside box as yours and after spending about 20 minutes in B&Q working out what cable I needed I chose the 1.5mm Pond cable which was a bugger to shut in the box due to a much thicker sheathing. Also I didn't use a piece of tubing so faffed around for ages getting the cable through my brick wall and also shed which is double lined with rock wool in between. I did think about getting some tubing but B&Q is miles away and I'd had enough of looking like a complete zombie shuffling up and down the plethora of different cables.
So after quite a fight trying to attach the cable to BBQ skewers, drill bits etc and cussing that we don't have wire coat hangers any more these days I managed it and then began a snake fight with the heavy duty rubber trunking as I was laying it out to cut to length on the patio slabs.
Anyway all ended well without too many bruises or shocks (my wife quite likes my new spikey hairdo) and my shed now enjoys charging my bike batteries etc and I no longer trip on the previous extension lead.
I intend to do the job again in the summer with thinner sheathed cable as I feel a bit of an expert today as most of what I did concurs with your method. :) Take care
I filmed this last summer, but it took me days to edit the footage and I have been really struggling for the time to do it!
It sounds like you had fun in B&Q ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Thank you for the video. Need to install these at work tomorrow and this helped greatly. Thought it would be more complicated than this when they brought in a bunch of these sockets I was actually about to tell them to get an electrician.
This video is aimed at DIY'ers doing work at home. For jobs like this at work, your employer should be getting professional electricians in to do the installations ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice video, like usual.
Its always good, that you give warnings to people, doing such jobs.
Thanks for the comment
Great video, you covered all the important points in as short a time as possible and made it very clear 👍
Glad you think so!
BIG bonus! I'd actually bought this very unit so it was really acurate. Will be able to fit it now without worries. Excellent channel, thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge. Been subbed to your channel a long time now and you've helped me out before. Thanks again UH
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Cheers mate
Fantastic video, will make my job of wiring up a socket for my new pond much easier. Thank You
You are welcome
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Good job, handy instructional video for diyers however as an electrician I have to say that the conductors were not long enough as I'm sure you would have screwed down onto the insulation in the socket which is a no no and also drill out the drain hole.
I can confirm that no conductors were harmed during the making of this video, perhaps it is difficult to see, but I did cut a fair amount of insulation from the conductors.
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@@ultimatehandyman haha ok mate, 👍
Just installed this unit based on your excellent advise - thank you
I'm glad the video helped
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Really useful thanks, and that’s a nice looking SS model and wouldn’t look too out of place anywhere, thanks 👍
Yes, the stainless steel ones look superb
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You forgot to drill out the drain hole in the base of the socket to let out condensstion.
Personally id sooner get a spark to certify the job and hardwire it with a fused spur switch. That said what youve done will work and could be hardwired at a later date.
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This way it doesn't need to be installed by an electrician or req Part P approval at all. So that's why he showed up this way. Good job that man
Just discovered this video - exactly what I needed thanks!! Also, nice to see someone else has those bloody awful house bricks too! They do love to eat drill bits - well mine do anyway. Cheers
Some bricks can be a real pain to drill through!
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I did this on the front of my house so that I can use the vacuum cleaner and power tools on my car. The only thing I did different was I covered the end of the plastic pipe with insulating tape, then I sprayed expanding foam into the hole and pushed the pipe through before it dried, this helps to seal it in place.
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Thanks for a very helpful video. A have exactly the same electrical outdoor socket which I fitted today without any problems at all thanks to your video!!... 👍😀🇬🇧
You are welcome
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Thank you for this video, I have just fitted one of these external sockets and works a treat thanks to your expertise
Worth noting that you've got to treat that socket as you would an extension lead i.e. maximum 13A current draw combined from both outlets.
The internal plug has a 13A fuse.
Very very well demonstrated👍👍. A really good video of how to do a perfect job. Top of the class young man👍
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A very good video sir, very calm voice through installation , love the detail to your work.
Thank you kindly!
Another good video, UH, for which many thanks. As I've said before, you're a pretty good leccie and your work is always done to a high standard. If I have any adverse opinion, it concerns British General kit; I've never much liked it myself, but each to his own - well done.
I've always found BG stuff to be decent quality, which brand do you prefer?
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@@ultimatehandyman Hello again. BG kit has always seemed a bit flimsy to me, but then when I was an apprentice we used a lot of Bill gear - and that was really robust (and damned heavy!) I have used MK Masterseals with no trouble at all, but they do cost about twice what you pay for BG. I suppose it's a case of getting what you pay for, and I've never gone wrong with MK gear.
Keep on making you videos - they are very good.
I always use clear silicon around the outside of the socket in case the rubber covers for screws fail. Otherwise great video
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I had a few problems with these but not through any incompetence on my part, but moreso iffy design decisions on the unit itself. Firstly i followed the advice of ppl who suggested not to drill out the drainage hole because it would compromise the IP rating. Unfortunately by not drilling out the drainage hole, the unit filled up with condensation and water after a 3-day downpour during the summer despite me sealing the unit against the top and sides of the wall. Sadly the socket was dead after that. The second unit fared better after I'd drilled out the drainage hole, but i still noticed drops of rainwater had made their way into the unit via the tiny gaps where the top hinges of the cover were joined to the main housing. Were it not for the inner rubber seal, I'd have lost another one of these. But upon closer inspection i don't think the rubber seal is up to much either 😅. Let's see how long my luck holds out.
Short sleeves and sun? Must be nice up north! Thanks for the infotainment matey
This was filmed in the legendary summer of 2018, but I only found time to edit it a couple of weeks back ;-)
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Great video once again. Those clips securing the front cover are a weak spot mine didn’t last. Company didn’t stock spare ones and suggested buying a new case. 😡
Sorry to hear that
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Needs the drainage hole in the backbox drilling out, its marked out in manufacture (notched) bottom left, nowhere for condensate to escape
Drilling holes in the backbox will compromise the IP66 Category 1 classification.
@@wakajawaka44 It's required in the IFU to drill the drainage hole at the rear. The IP rating is still adequate for outdoor use and the hole is shrouded to prevent water ingress.
@@wakajawaka44 new to me "fitted to manufacturers instructions" seems to supersede must regs and it does have a clearly marked drainage hole but I stand corrected
@n325aej The seals are gone.
Why is the additional earth cable connects to the plastic housing?
Another excellent video. One of my best subscribed channels for honest reviews and cracking info which is a bonus as its from the UK. Thanks for your videos. Makes sundays better! 👍
I'm glad the video help ;-)
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Aprreciate your videos and always good content pal. Little tip strip back more on your conductors and then double over as you are definitely pinching down on the insulation when you connect up ass there was not enough copper showing
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Really good video. Clearly explained and concise. Thanks
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Looking to fit one soon,your video has plenty of great tips Thank You !!
Glad it was helpful!
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Alot of details spoken about. Will help when I do mine
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Just done this thanks to this video - SOOOOOOOOO EASY.
Thank you x x
I'm glad the video helped
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I’d have gone through wall behind internal socket so you couldn’t see cable no need for trunking then
Possibly add a cable tie where the wire enters the box, to prevent the wires pulling out of the socket plate, if the plug lead gets pulled from inside. Also I leave the earth longer, so if pulling does tear a wire loose the earth is last to go.
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Just did that last week with same BG socket - only thing I did which I shouldn’t have was screw through the interval 4 black gaskets - didn’t realise they were just to cover the screws lol I shouldn’t have read the manual!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Some kind of strain relief or gland should be used to stop the flex being ripped out of the back of the outside socket from inside. Especially if the flex isn’t going to be attached to the wall travelling up to the socket inside.
I didn't think about that, I should of put a gland or something on the inside of the socket!
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Holy crap, your timing is impeccable! I was just about to search YT on how to install an external socket, but your video was suggested to me, even before I did my search. Please tell me, from where did you learn your Jedi mind-reading tricks?
This makes a nice change, the last time a video popped up as a suggestion for some guy, he was really pissed because RUclips suggested the wrong video - so he gave the video a thumbs down and a comment to say that he'd given me a thumbs down because RUclips had suggested the wrong video to him ;-)
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Yet another great video well explained and demonstrated
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This is a very good video.
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Another great video. I use the rcd on it as well when using the mover but it's a tad large and sometimes you can't fit it in with the flap so I have to take the front flap off.
cant you just put the rcd on the internal socket?
Thank you so much for another comprehensive video. I was going to install a separate RCD inside but you saved me much cash and time.
Q1. Would it not better to use a 2.5mm wire than a 1.5mm wire. I have been told to use a 2.5 mm wire for sockets and 1.5mm for lights. Which size is correct, please?
Q2. What is the best way to illuminate a wooden workshop/ shed, please?
Best wishes
Instead of a 13 amp plug
You could remove the existing socket and put another box below the socket with trunking between the 2 and drill through the back of the second box you added inside to outside
This allows the socket to be wired into the circuit by use of a Fused connection unit or FCU which you made a video on how to install and to isolate the outdoor socket all you need to do is remove the fuse in the fuse connection unit below the indoor socket and no power can get outside for anyone to use because if the fuse is removed there will be no power
Yes, but then you have altered the circuit and need to notify your local council, which could include fees ;-)
I put a gland on mine at the bottom i don't like the thought of drilling a hole behind it. Also i did it your way with a plug on the end.
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Really good video thank you !
Even though your installation is RCD protected I think I will still pay the extra £10 for the RCD version of that box or maybe just the £10 RCD 'plug' on the inside socket.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
If you place an RCD on an already protected RCD circuit it can cause nuisance tripping and also completely unnecessary. How did you get on if I may ask as your comment was a long time ago. Thanks
nice video ... very clear... but you didnt drill out the drain hole. Also.. what is the reason for connecting an earth wire to the plastic box connecter? (please don't say best practice :) )
Great video as usual , Thanks for your time .......
You are welcome
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Very useful video
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Thank you ! Brilliant ❤❤❤
You're welcome 😊
Great informative video - really helpful, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
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From all the comments it looks like it would be really useful and a good precaution if you, or a friendly Sparks, could make a video on electric Regs.
Regs change regularly, and so the video could soon be outdated.
Electrical regulations, recommendations and the Law is a sure fire way of starting arguments ;-)
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It’s a 3 day course for an time served qualified electrician (registered with the NICEIC) to update to the 18th edition of the wiring regs. It would be a mighty long video
Cable detector, just take the face plate off then you can see were the cables come into the socket ,magic!
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Hi, great video and just what I was looking for as I am finding it difficult to get a trades person to take on such a small job, so I am going to try myself.
It would be good if you listed the materials and equipment you used in the description. I appreciate some of it is obvious but stuff like PEX Pipe and the exact type of Wire (Flex) including rating would be useful.
15mm PEX pipe
1.5mm2 three core flex
Three pin plug, with 13 Amp fuse
Suitable sealant and suitable external socket.
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Thanks for a great upload as always.
Best regards,Carl.
Thanks for the comment, Carl ;-)
Good video but can I ask why you would not just spur into the back of the double socket that way you don't lose a plug inside?
You might have to notify your local council if you do that, also you can unplug the socket when you go on holiday. This is mega important if you have RCD protected circuits, as a thief could plug something into the socket to trip the RCD
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Thanks for the useful upload. All good stuff to know.
You are welcome
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What sealant did you use was it just an RTV silicone
found the video very informative and useful.
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In my opinion this was a really good video of a job well done. My only question came right at the end. Why wouldn't you wire this right into the circuit instead of using a plug? I guess if you're really worried about a neighbor stealing power it would help but there are other ways to control that from inside.
The reason to make it unpluggable, is so that nobody can trip the RCD for the socket circuit, as the burglar alarm and CCTV camera's are likely to be disabled ;-)
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A builder I once worked for had his external power point used to cut into his garage doors, they took £8,000 pounds worth of tools and his pump Too, make sure you also install a kill switch inside the building to any power points outside - no point in providing a burglar with any assistance
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Just a quick question, I’m planning to fit some garden lights. I don’t want to have to go to the garage every time I want to switch on.
My plan was - plug, 5 amp fuse, 1mm2 outdoor cable (I’ve checked that this is suitable) then rather than use an outdoor switch use a waterproof fused spur with switch. Input is obviously my cable from
the plug. Output is my 10w led switch ! Yes it is definitely a 10w led floodlight. It means I can turn it on halfway between the house floodlight which doesn’t reach the garage and this new floodlight will cover the rest of the wag to the garage.
If I want a second floodlight can I connect it to the same fused spur under the output so two 10 watt floodlights , and therefore two lives, two neutrals and two earths all on the output
Or a cable goes to the first floodlight from the output of waterproof switched fuse spur, in this first floodlight where the cables connect to the light to make it live can I just run a suitable cable from the first floodlight input thus having power
Go to it .
Third option is wire from output of fused spur then to a junction box split two ways, feeding the each floodlight.
Mistake output being my 10w light ! Sorry
Excellent tutorial
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One small point if I may, I never fully remove a long thin drill bit from masonry until it has stopped rotating.
Drill shafts are not always made from material which resists the heat generated when drilling hard materials such as engineering bricks or dense concrete. On one occasion as I removed a still rotating bit it bent through a right angle and struck my neck, hard. Had it been at full rotation speed I could have been decapitated. As it was I got a bruise and a real fright!
Also, you didn’t drill out the drain hole at the bottom of the back box.
Not intending to criticise, it was a helpful video, I was not aware of the st/st fronted boxes.
Hi, I found this very helpful, I need a socket in the garden, down the bottom of the garden which is quite a way. I was thinking one of these would be handy. But I don't know what I need - but this was helpful, You should list at the bottom of your videos what you bought and used.
# Is this for UK
# What cable is needed to extend down to the bottom of the garden.
# Will I be able to feed the electric cable down a plastic pipe.
# Plus, I notice you don't want to blow the brick outside, but you didn't say how you drilled in from both sides when you can't see where the inside drill is appearing outside. How do you do that ?
thanks
Instead of using a plug to the indoor socket, could I just split off the live, neutral and earth inside the socket so that I can still use the socket indoors (leaving the outdoor socket live)?
Obviously bearing in mind not to overload the socket.
Thanks
You could, but then the installation would need testing and signing off by your local council, or the job would need doing by an approved electrician (which is why I used the plug)
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Great video. Thanks! 👍
Thank you too!
I'm just trying to replace an existing outdoor socket. There's a wire that comes from somewhere in the house, it's gonna have to run into the socket from underneath. There's a kind of seal thingy at the bottom of the existing one however it uses a metal nut which is completely rusted to disintegration. The new plug doesn't come with any seal or anything, how can I run the garden wire into the bottom of the new plug and make it water tight? Thanks.
Perhaps use a cable gland- fave.co/3lb9p7F
Top video, as usual.
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What was the point of the case earthing if the case with plastic
If there is an earthing point I normally connect an earth wire to it.
You can imagine the comments I'd get if I had not connected anything to it 🤓
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11:46 He's got another reason for doing it so.... heheeh
In the USA, I've never seen an earthing connection on a plastic box, so I am curious too. Maybe just a legacy part of the electric code?
@@Pooneil1984 Just a thought but it could be that a plastic box can become conductive if there is any condensation (or any other moisture) on or in it.
No need to earth plastic but if your unsure then why not I guess
Nice video and shows some very good practices in respect of sealing and protection. I would however never wire in a 'double socket' as a radial (single wire) The internal small power socket is on a ring and so I would open that up in the existing box and continue it to the new ext box (1 cable in and 1 cable out) and then connect the wires with suitable rated blocks to join back to the ring wires. (all inside the existing box oor if there wasnt room add an addition (abutting immediately adjacent or below with a blanking plate and label accordingly what it was. )Wiring as a spur like this I would really only use it for a 'single gang' external socket. I know that the amp draw from external devices will rarely ever be high enough to worry about (but you dont know what users after you will use it for) but still seems like better practice to me so as to guarantee the circuit will never be overloaded (>13amps) Similarly using 1.5mm is maybe unwise and using min 2.5mm as the internal ring wiring would be more prudent ? anyone have any opinions on this also ? I am not an electrician but a very competent DIYer/self builder so normally er n the cautious side.
Ok so I have had another look and the 1.5mm 3 core cable you used is indeed good for 13Amp max so as its wired to a single plug with a 13A fuse that would be fine as a radial install as you have done as the twin socket s cannot be overloaded without tripping the ring RCD or blowing the fuse. Also as its not permanently connected to the small power mains ring it does not fall under AD:Part P and so does not need to be fitted by an electrician or approved by Building Control. So all in all well done ! The method I described is a permanent install (an extension of the mains ring) and so indeed falls under Part P.
Any reason why you didn't drill out the drain hole? (the instructions say that rear entry requires lower drain hole to be drilled out).
It depends how you are supplying the cable to it. I went through the back and sealed the hole (no chance of water ingress).
If I use a gland, I always put the gland on the bottom of the socket (never the side or the top) 👍
The rubber caps to seal the wall fixing screws are a good addition, saves having to put sealent round them.
Absolutely.
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Excellent video
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If you want it hard wired in, call in one of us reg'd sparkies. This way you won't see any unsightly wires. Plus you'll have full use of both internal sockets. You'll also have a better load rating along with a cert. With the flick of a switch on a spur you can turn on/off your external socket/s 🤗
Agree
That was a great video. Thank you.
You are welcome
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Another great video Chez cheers!
Thanks for the comment ;-)