Easily Overlooked Step When Changing Oil. Plus an A/C Recharge & Oil Life Reset !!
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
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I'd love to check all that stuff during an oil change if i could only talk someone into buying me a lift 😂.
George Carlin said. "Don't go bananas. Or, don't go Ape Shit. Bananas is Ape Shit. Think about it"
It’s just a trajectory to the ape. He’ll toss it at you!😊
Creeping up on 100k subs , awesome
😂😅 Yesssss,we have no bananas,we have no bananas today 😅😂 have no idea what made me think of that 😅😊
Thanks Kenny!! Happy Independence Day!! God bless y'all
Thanks Kenny
Nice video brother Kenny. I hope you and Meg have a nice holiday.
I’ve thought about doing that in my daily routine as far as removing those canister type oil filters before draining the oil and now after seeing this video wwk I think I will be doing that from now on that was a good tip and advice thanks wwk
I wonder if it makes a difference whether the filter screws on in pour-out orientation vs with the filter hanging below the screw threads.
Since the late 80s up to around 2008 I worked in a few lube shops plus a Goodyear and NTB and did tons of oil changes. I don't remember being specifically taught to always pull the filter first but I got into doing that before taking the drain plug out. Something I was specifically taught was on the Wankel engines like in the RX-7 at the time, was poking a hole in the top of the oil filter then taking it off. Besides it being the least messy of just about anything around at the time it also made sure all the oil drained into the oil pan before pulling the plug like on this car. In the last few years I was changing the oil on a 2009 Chevy Malibu 2.4L with the top mount canister filter partly under the intake manifold and I did the same thing.
Been doing mine for years. Put some bearing grease on o ring and just snug it up. Don’t over tighten. Check for leaks.
Just bring it to WM or one of those oil change places. They will forget to tighten the filter and drain plug, burns up your engine, so you get a new engine out of the deal.
Where did the missing refrigerant leak out? The valves at the low- and high-side connections seem like probable locations. If there was already dye in the system, a leak at the valves should be detectable.
The refrigerant went somewhere but yeah there's no reason to check for leaks under vacuum, just charge the customer for a recharge every oil change or so.
Happy fourth of July.
I've learned the hard way that all fill ports and filters should be opened/removed before the drain plug. Bad feeling to drain the fluid before discovering the fill port can't be opened, or the filter wrench was "borrowed".
Happy 4th kenny
I usually crawl under the car and remove the drain plug first, then after the engine cools off a little more I remove the oil filter. Since I removed the drain plug first, I usually put it back in right before replacing the oil.
Subscription reinstated 😊
What caught my eye on this episode is the inspection sticker on the windshield appears to be overdue by a couple of years.
In any case its just good advice here, especially with a high mounted filter like that one. Another good video anyways...
Does the same thing happen with a Lexus/Toyota 2gr-fe with the filter housing on the bottom of the engine?
It's really hot here in Tennessee Mr Kenny. Happy 4th 🎉 Woohoo!😅😂❤
HOUSTON CONTROL… “WWK HERE, WE HAVE NO BANANAS”; repeat HOUSTON WE HAVE NO BANANAS. 😊
I always charge on the high side, that's the way I was taught, then use the low side to finish pulling in freon if it didn't fully charge.
. I agree, plus chemical dye has a life span. And chemical dye and A/C oil is different depending on the type of A/C refrigerant. I alway evacuate the refrigerant, see if the system holds a vacuum for 10 min then continue the vacuum for 20 minutes, technicians know a vacuum of at least 28 in must be applied to the system for 30 minutes so that any moisture in the desiccant that is a part of the receiver drier or accumulator boils off its stored moisture. After 30 minutes of vacuum evacuation add the correct amount of new dye and oil into the LOW side of the system then add the correct refrigerant amount into the high side of the system.The vehicle engine is still OFF during the oil, dye and refregerant addition. I prefer to add the correct refrigerant amount while the key off engine is not running and the low side valve on the A/C machine is in the off position and all refrigerant is pumped into the high side. Once the A/C machine indicates its completed. I open both valves on the A/C machine, start the engine, place the vehicle in MAX cold front and rear all vehicles windows in the up position (make sure you don't lock the keys in the car) and perform a PERFORMANCE TEST (monitor A/C pressures). If all is still good then I turn the engine OFF close both the HIGH & LOW valves on the A/C machine disconnect the high line from the vehicle open the HIGH & LOW valves on the machine and let any remaining pressure in the HIGH side hose move into the vehicle low side. Close both valves on the A/C machine, close both valves on the ends of the A/C hoses and disconnect the hoses. ALWAYS WHERE EYE PROTECTION AND GLOVES ALWAYS!!!!!!!
Even 10w30. Can't imagine a problem in Texas. Up here in the great white north its 0w20 in the Japanese. 5w30 in gm
I have that machine at my shop. How do u get it to add oil? Machine rep told us it doesnt have that function.
Not sure if that's a 3.6 Penta but if so you don't want to go bananas on anything. The oil filter housing will strip threads or break like nothing and the plastic oil cooler will likely leak on its own without bananas being involved.
You could just open the filter first and then drain the pan.
What if the canister filter Is on the bottom?
in my case this isnt a problem cause i dont have a lift so it drains while i take the oil filter out and change it
Wouldn't removing the drain plug first and leaving it out until the filter was replaced achieve the same result?
Replacing the o-ring on the oil filter cap is overrated. I bought a Mobil oil filter that came with a nice silicone o-ring 5 years ago. I haven't changed the o-ring since then. I recently installed the Dorman aluminum OFA and transferred the o-ring to the new cap on our 2018 Pacifica.
Kenny, I noticed that you didn’t use high mileage oil on that vehicle with over 200,000 on it. Why? Or does it matter what formula you use?
He was showing you why you should pull the filter first ,pay attention
My Dodge has a drain plug that takes 7/8 wrench, of course it is not new it's '72. Old school Mopar rules
Good video. Just I would say: All customers should be treated like good customers.
Happy 4th of July to all.
Cartridge vs canister for oil filter?
I prefer a canister over a cartridge. Thanks for asking & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
Tighten up the editing, Kenny.
My understanding is that the A/C system is a sealed system. If it needs a top-off or refill of refrigerant, then it has a leak somewhere. Am I wrong?
Correct..Use Air con often even in cold weather.
It forces refridgent to move around the system and keeps the seals lubricated.
Dry seals DO NOT seal very well,if at all.
So the air con gas escapes.
I open both, problem solved.
But you didn't prefill the filter lol.
Is it “change oil “ or “oil change”?
lol you have to change the oil to do an oil change!
Why not just take the filter off first?
That's the point he was making. Remove the filter BEFORE you drain the oil.
He does, except he is showing you why you take it off first.
must be thick!! thanks !!
Us poor people without a lift don't worry about when to change the filter... so long as the drain plug is out.
If you can’t afford ramps or jack stands then you can’t afford an oil change.
@@Nmdixon-cu7vm A swing and a miss.
Lifts would be nice to have but not for your everyday 'joe' to put in his garage. sometimes a ditch works but limits your movement
You are absolutely wrong about the a/c. You pull a vacuum and put a micron gauge on it and you will find the issue, if you can't get it down fast you have moisture and you are going to have to vacuum it down for hours and hope. You can fill the system full without running the compressor if you do it right.
Why not remove the oil filter 1st, pull the drain plug and drain and tighten plug and go top side. too many moves.
He said he was showing why you should remove the filter first rather than the way he did it.
I would not own anything with that particular engine. I have heard a lot of bad things about them.
Actually a very good engine
If you get over 200,000 miles on a motor I’d say that’s pretty good. Have you seen the issues with new Toyotas and Acura? I’ve seen like 10 people have their motors blow on these new Acura type S and the 2022 Tacoma issues.
Bought my town and country brand new in 2015. PROPER engine break in, 5W20 Pennzoil Platinum and Wix filter every 5k miles. 127k mi. I know that's not a lot. Zero problems. Oil level doesn't move on the stick between changes. Runs like brand new. Quiet, excellent throttle response and fuel mileage. I take very good care of my vehicles.
The issues are mainly plastic parts, oil cooler housing, thermostat housing and coolant crossover ... if you replace those, with aluminum parts, most of your problems will be solved...actually not a bad motor, and l'm a ford guy...
But, too much plastic on those as well. Lol ..
@@robertgriffin7569 I did replace the thermostat as that had failed. Stayed closed.
Your hand is doing the work, not in the way.