Indexing the cams was fun. I was with VW-Porsche in the mid to late 60's and had a 66 911 which I built into a very radical machine. When I was done with it, there were only two like it in the US. One in SoCal and one by Brumos. The double offset Crows wrench looked a bit different than the one that he had. RIP Peter. The people who worked on them back then were something else.
I’ve just watched all of this I too have just lost my father last week and he dedicated 30 years of his life to restoring Porsche’s for a living, he has left me his 1972 911T which needs full restoration this is inspirational to me so thank you. I will be doing this in memory of my farther R S Naylor motor engineering RIP Dad
Well God Bless you Phil and your Father. Just remember!!!! He will be Watching you to make sure your getting all the Torque settings/Valve Clearance/Deck Height/Bodywork done just like he did!! .... And once again im sorry for your loss. GOD BLESS!
Please advise? I have 2000 Boxster S porsche with a knocking sounds at lower gears put it appears to go away as I shift to 3rd to 4th etc… what can be done to fix it?
I have worked on many old engines, some dating back to the sixties. It is lovely to see you build a 1969 Porsche engine. The engineering is just so advanced of anything I have seen from that era. It is no wonder that the Privateers all drove the 911s
Last time i saw such a precise operation, it was a neurosurgeon on TV fitting a frame to a patient's head before perfroming precision surgery. Fascinating viewing. I just discovered your channel yesterday and binged watched the whole The Canary Files. I look forward to the next episode.
This build has been fantastic so far! I'm sorry for your loss! I just lost my dad at the beginning of March from a brain tumor at 60 and he left me his 1976 911 that I've been researching like crazy for and that's how I stumbled across your build. Wonderful production values, great information, and you are a wonderful host! You have well earned a subscriber!
13:35 I really forgot you needed to tear it all back down. This destroyed me. This engine has to be the most complex build I've watched of a motor and you have to tear it down again?! AHHH!
Nice work... fiddly job too. Pretty nice to see the level of detail in this video. Sorry for your loss... your dad looked like a cool guy, great smile.
I just did this procedure..... Lots of fun .... Your Vids are very Well Done n Informative !!!!! Lets Celebrate Your Fathers Life :) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
On dealer flat rate which I had to work with, a dial indicator took far too much time. One got very proficient at setting the valves. The big problem was the early tensioners, which often frozen due to oil turning the seals into concrete and the oil could not circulate or flush once it was in the tensioner, so repairing one could could be a very smelly affair.
Amazing video series. I love watching engine builds like this. I’ve seen some Ferrari flat 12 engine builds and I think the cam timing is done in a similar way, except they have 4 cam sprockets! It’s so much more complicated than the Japanese engines I’m used to. Throw the cam sprockets on, timing belt, and you’re done. Like you I’m also “self taught” as far as auto mechanics go. Excellent work mate! 👍
Not sure I'm clear about the barrel shimming process ensure all barrels and level for the camshaft carrier. I've never been a Porsche fan but this engine is beautifully engineered. Also seems to have a lot of places for potential oil leaks. Good video, many thanks.
I guess Subaru is carrying the legacy. Don't be mad that I'm making this comparison. I'm just saying, this is where it began. With Porsche. Very cool engineering and design.
As a Mechanic at the dealer all of this only paid flat rate and it had to be done rapidly. That nut only got final torque at the end. Back then lots of problems with the chain tensioners.
I like your videos and your patience. Valve to piston clearance, just because the valves didn't hit the pistons doesn't mean the clearance is correct. Use soft valve springs made for testing and measure clearance with a dial gauge or use modelling clay on top of the pistons. Good idea to use degree wheel on crank and find true TDC. Cheers!
Excellent work. I'm not up on car engines, but was this just to set valve clearance? Watching you taking it back apart almost gave me anxiety after all that work.
Porsche's method for holding the sprocket to the cam for timing, with all its complexity of gears and pins, is really just dependent on the friction between the two for final accuracy. I realize this is a restoration and you're stuck with what you have, but thankfully modern OHC engines can achieve the same accuracy using procedures taking minutes not hours. You have the patience of a saint. BTW, being an old gearhead, I can see a way to make job easier but just as accurate, but when the purists saw me with a machinist's reamer and cut down drill bit doing surgery, they'd have a fit. ;>)
Wonderful job assembling this complicated engine. Next time try it with some lubricant on everything, cylinders piston rings, cam lobes and everything else.
I'm a bit confused why you had to dismantle everything after setting up all the timing and valve clearances. That will all have to be done again. Sorry about your Dad.
y when you take the heads off etc you need to check the valve lash again,not only that but after you install the engine and go thru a few heat cycles,I dont give dam what some folks say but I adjust the valves at TDC for every cylinder those cams have some weird valve timing, duration at 270 for the intake and 312 degrees is pretty wild, valve over lap helps cool the cylinders
Hi Kav, I love the way you calmly talk about the valve timing. I’ve recently been building mine and found it very frustrating, going round and round in circles for hours, until I understood want was happening. Your video came in very helpful. I’m now on the valve clearances, and again I don’t understand why. After setting the rockers to 0.10, why then do you adjust the intake to 1.5 mm and 2.0 mm exhaust ? I have Wayne Dempsey’s book and a Porsche service manual which doesn’t mention valve overlap clearances ! Would you be kind enough to explain why the process needs to be done ?
I depress the valves a further 1.5mm & 2mm to check that I have the minimum valve clearance required. I rotate the engine 720 degress and feel for any interference , then back them off again.
Brilliant, that’s helped, thanks very much. Amazing what a little input from someone else can have. I do find that in Wayne Dempsey’s book he waffles on a bit unnecessarily and could be simpler.
i can say that i admire your patience and dedication, but your videos teached me the reasons for not buying a Porsche. Sorry, good cars but the engines are a nightmares to rebuild.
@@TheLeonmafioso I wish I did have the money to buy a Supercar! I'm just pointing out the fact that these engines are complicated (or different I should say) and expensive because of the early Porsche hype!
Can someone advice me please. I have a ford focus with DOHCs. I did my timing belt yesterday and noticed that the intake cam pulley timing marks were off by 160-170 degrees. Crankshaft lined up with the exhaust cam. The car runs perfect before and after belt replacement. There was tool marks on the cam pulley and was just wondering what exactly they could have done for it to be almost 180 degrees out.
Really not necessary to torque the cam nut fully to 110 ft ibs between each cam gear adjustment. Just tight enough to keep it all together. It is the pin that is keeping the cam gear from rotating, not the nut torque. Like wise it is not necessary to hold the cam from moving during the nut torque. Obviously it must be held to counteract the tightening but a little movement will not effect valve timing as again the pin is holding the relationship between cam and cam gear. I find it very time saving to set up gages on both #1 and #4 during this operation, then you can rotate the crank quickly and check both sides, back and forth against each other. Voila
You'd be amazed how much play there is in the pin on the cam sprocket. I agree 110ft lbs is a lot but I don't want things to slip. Yes dual gauges would be the way to go!
I assume Porsche uses this adjustable system for cam timing, as opposed to one position, so that it is easy for someone to change the timing from standard to compensate for chain wear or custom specs. Is that correct?
do use every model the rocker seals? I was reading my hayness workshop manual, there are didn´t say nothin about it. Only talk about to screw rockers...
hi dude, i love your videos, right now im going to timing one 1974 porsche turbo engine rebuild but i would love to buy the sr 51 cam nut tool to do it better can you tell where did you buy please
My god..that’s quite the timing procedure. Surely after figuring out all of the other marvels on this engine, they could have come up with something better for this. And I thought I let loose a lot of profanity with some of the Subaru’s! Is there a set of proper tools/indicators or whatever for this that a actual Porsche tech would have or not really? I don’t really see how you would do it differently? Great work anyways.. thanks for sharing.
You had a dial indicator and a set of feeler gages and it had to be done quickly. BTW original Subaru engine was a Borgward design. I think Subaru internal torques for many engine parts are far too high.
yup you have to be fussy on engine building!! this shows some of that!! and yes you have to buy the best tools to make any engine builder look good!! bad quality tools = bad engine build!! it is funny how just a bit of off in the specs stacks up to large numbers off on the many parts!! and also knowing where to make things closer and larger on the specs... that is what makes a good engine tuner!! (precision builder) I work with the Kent motors as well as the Cosworth setups... tricky when you are building 980hp setups. just a smidge here and there makes 20 to 40 hp difference!! are you going to dyno this after the build? nice to have a break in run up!! before installing in the car!!
First I must mention, I have enjoyed this series and will sub... BUT... I don't want like I am being picky, here... The torque specs you aimed for are wrong, on the cam nuts.... I thought maybe in video No. 5, that you would have rectified this, as you are in this video just setting timing and lash, and would do a final proper torque spec when done.... Any time you use a tool/attachment that will change the length of fulcrum point of a torque wrench, you need to add or subtract the length for proper required torque spec. Meaning, on one cam nut, you are under torqued by about 7 % of the 110 you were shooting for, and the other side, you were over torqued by about 7%... I speculate that things will be just fine for the life and performance of the engine, so I am not saying you have anything to worry about on those two location, due to their sizes.. but there was, I think in video number 1, you had a attachment in that one, (the connecting rod fasteners) that may have allowed the over torquing of 15 to 20 % the specs, yes, the yield stretch measured in the range to specs +/-, again, it was not stated that you adjusted for the torque wrench attachments additional length past the fulcrum's pivot point... Just a heads up. You may have already calculated for the fulcrum differences when using said attachment to the torque wrench, but it was not stated in the video... Again, Please note, I am not trying to sound overly critical here, but just for future reference, The small the fastener is, the critical the specs are to damage, stripping out of the threads, over yielding, or the fastener just simply coming loose.... Either way, This brought back many memories watching this engine rebuild, and I really enjoyed this...
I JUST WATCH 4 VIDEOS OF YOU PUTTING IT TOGETHER !!!!!!!! AND NOW YOUR TAKING IT ALL APART ????? AAAHAHHHHAHH!! >> on to video #5 hope you put some paint on the block !!!!! Well see!! >> ON TO VIDEO #5 !!!! WWWEEEEEE
Flat rate agency work is the Bain of any thorough technician. The boss will accept running the job up to the maximum number of flat rate hours but at that point the technician is losing money on his labor. Beyond flat rate and the boss will have you in his office possibly to let you go. Only one tech one engine work gets attention such as this. OK is fine with the boss and sadly not OK work won't get you fired. A technical misstep gets the customer back in the shop and back on the clock. That is the business side of the techs job.
@@kavs911 When Porsche built these engines in the factory surely they didn't tear it down after setting the cam timing ? There must be another way of doing this task without double doing. I'm planning on rebuilding my 3.2 soon so need as much good info as possible.
@@billgaytes6845 Porsche knew all of the tolerances for each motor so it was easy. I'm using custom high compression pistons and stock heads, I need to measure as it's not 'standard'.
Авто/Мото
Indexing the cams was fun. I was with VW-Porsche in the mid to late 60's and had a 66 911 which I built into a very radical machine. When I was done with it, there were only two like it in the US. One in SoCal and one by Brumos. The double offset Crows wrench looked a bit different than the one that he had. RIP Peter. The people who worked on them back then were something else.
I’ve just watched all of this I too have just lost my father last week and he dedicated 30 years of his life to restoring Porsche’s for a living, he has left me his 1972 911T which needs full restoration this is inspirational to me so thank you. I will be doing this in memory of my farther R S Naylor motor engineering RIP Dad
Phil Naylor Sorry for your loss dude. I love your plans to get that motor working
Well God Bless you Phil and your Father. Just remember!!!! He will be Watching you to make sure your getting all the Torque settings/Valve Clearance/Deck Height/Bodywork done just like he did!! .... And once again im sorry for your loss. GOD BLESS!
Please advise? I have 2000 Boxster S porsche with a knocking sounds at lower gears put it appears to go away as I shift to 3rd to 4th etc… what can be done to fix it?
I have worked on many old engines, some dating back to the sixties.
It is lovely to see you build a 1969 Porsche engine.
The engineering is just so advanced of anything I have seen from that era.
It is no wonder that the Privateers all drove the 911s
Beautiful, and loved the dedication to your father. He will be proud.
Rest in peace Peter, sorry for your loss; enjoying the build, had no idea porsche engines were so intricate! Great bit of work!
I'm not even planning to do any mechanics, but thoroughly enjoyed watching you assemble your porshe engine. Thankful I happened on your video.
Thanks Patrick!
Nice work ,love these Porsche engines 😊
Last time i saw such a precise operation, it was a neurosurgeon on TV fitting a frame to a patient's head before perfroming precision surgery.
Fascinating viewing. I just discovered your channel yesterday and binged watched the whole The Canary Files. I look forward to the next episode.
Thanks!
This build has been fantastic so far! I'm sorry for your loss! I just lost my dad at the beginning of March from a brain tumor at 60 and he left me his 1976 911 that I've been researching like crazy for and that's how I stumbled across your build. Wonderful production values, great information, and you are a wonderful host! You have well earned a subscriber!
Thanks Scott!
13:35 I really forgot you needed to tear it all back down. This destroyed me.
This engine has to be the most complex build I've watched of a motor and you have to tear it down again?! AHHH!
Nice work... fiddly job too. Pretty nice to see the level of detail in this video.
Sorry for your loss... your dad looked like a cool guy, great smile.
Thanks Greg, he was a really great bloke. I miss him and Lewis very much.
Awesome!! Very clear..
Very well explained.. Thanks...
Look how beautifully designed this engine is for 1969. Meanwhile in the USA its still push rods and V8's at the same time.
6:08 Herman Miller tool bench. Fantastic videos!
Hahaha!
I just did this procedure..... Lots of fun .... Your Vids are very Well Done n Informative !!!!! Lets Celebrate Your Fathers Life :) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks John!
To adjust valve lash use a dial indicator to set the clearance instead of a feeler gage. You will never go back. Cheers, great build.
On dealer flat rate which I had to work with, a dial indicator took far too much time. One got very proficient at setting the valves. The big problem was the early tensioners, which often frozen due to oil turning the seals into concrete and the oil could not circulate or flush once it was in the tensioner, so repairing one could could be a very smelly affair.
Amazing video series. I love watching engine builds like this. I’ve seen some Ferrari flat 12 engine builds and I think the cam timing is done in a similar way, except they have 4 cam sprockets! It’s so much more complicated than the Japanese engines I’m used to. Throw the cam sprockets on, timing belt, and you’re done. Like you I’m also “self taught” as far as auto mechanics go. Excellent work mate! 👍
Patrick94GSR thank you!
Oops! I should have waited till the end of the video. Great job.
sorry about your dad !!!! R.I.P ! he's still with you he lives inside of you
Im sorry for your loss theres no doubt you make your father proud.
MEMPHIS REIGNS thank you very much.
Wow...This is a lot of work....! Nothing like a 350 Chevy engine....!
Muito obrigado por esta informação muito bem explicado muito obrigado
Not sure I'm clear about the barrel shimming process ensure all barrels and level for the camshaft carrier. I've never been a Porsche fan but this engine is beautifully engineered. Also seems to have a lot of places for potential oil leaks. Good video, many thanks.
I guess Subaru is carrying the legacy. Don't be mad that I'm making this comparison. I'm just saying, this is where it began. With Porsche. Very cool engineering and design.
As a Mechanic at the dealer all of this only paid flat rate and it had to be done rapidly. That nut only got final torque at the end. Back then lots of problems with the chain tensioners.
Thay put the tenchner on the wrong side of the chane
I like your videos and your patience. Valve to piston clearance, just because the valves didn't hit the pistons doesn't mean the clearance is correct. Use soft valve springs made for testing and measure clearance with a dial gauge or use modelling clay on top of the pistons. Good idea to use degree wheel on crank and find true TDC. Cheers!
SOME TIMES IT HELPS TO GO AHEAD AND SAY FU*K I HAVE FOUND OVER 69 YEARS.
Seems "slightly" more involved than my Chevy 250 6 cylinder rebuild. :D)
Excellent work. I'm not up on car engines, but was this just to set valve clearance? Watching you taking it back apart almost gave me anxiety after all that work.
Porsche's method for holding the sprocket to the cam for timing, with all its complexity of gears and pins, is really just dependent on the friction between the two for final accuracy. I realize this is a restoration and you're stuck with what you have, but thankfully modern OHC engines can achieve the same accuracy using procedures taking minutes not hours. You have the patience of a saint. BTW, being an old gearhead, I can see a way to make job easier but just as accurate, but when the purists saw me with a machinist's reamer and cut down drill bit doing surgery, they'd have a fit. ;>)
Hurry up man, I'm stuck on my motor in the same stage, waiting for your next video to persuade me along.
Roger Johnson just uploaded part 5!
@@kavs911 you are the best!
You have convinced me my 911 is getting an ls, great job cheers!
Wonderful job assembling this complicated engine. Next time try it with some lubricant on everything, cylinders piston rings, cam lobes and everything else.
Good advise thanks!
I'm a bit confused why you had to dismantle everything after setting up all the timing and valve clearances. That will all have to be done again. Sorry about your Dad.
Sorry for the loss of your father.
y when you take the heads off etc you need to check the valve lash again,not only that but after you install the engine and go thru a few heat cycles,I dont give dam what some folks say but I adjust the valves at TDC for every cylinder those cams have some weird valve timing, duration at 270 for the intake and 312 degrees is pretty wild, valve over lap helps cool the cylinders
Was this a re upload?
great videos ......................sorry about your father
Thanks Ricky.
Hi Kav, I love the way you calmly talk about the valve timing. I’ve recently been building mine and found it very frustrating, going round and round in circles for hours, until I understood want was happening. Your video came in very helpful. I’m now on the valve clearances, and again I don’t understand why. After setting the rockers to 0.10, why then do you adjust the intake to 1.5 mm and 2.0 mm exhaust ? I have Wayne Dempsey’s book and a Porsche service manual which doesn’t mention valve overlap clearances ! Would you be kind enough to explain why the process needs to be done ?
I depress the valves a further 1.5mm & 2mm to check that I have the minimum valve clearance required. I rotate the engine 720 degress and feel for any interference , then back them off again.
Brilliant, that’s helped, thanks very much. Amazing what a little input from someone else can have. I do find that in Wayne Dempsey’s book he waffles on a bit unnecessarily and could be simpler.
i can say that i admire your patience and dedication, but your videos teached me the reasons for not buying a Porsche. Sorry, good cars but the engines are a nightmares to rebuild.
You forgot expensive too!
@@kavs911 If you have enought money to buy a supercar you should have enought too to do the manteinance.
@@TheLeonmafioso I wish I did have the money to buy a Supercar! I'm just pointing out the fact that these engines are complicated (or different I should say) and expensive because of the early Porsche hype!
@@kavs911 Dude, if this car is your you have a supercar. Even when is aged, but still being a supercar of its era.
Hope we can see some dyno testing and tunning :D i loved all your videos.
Can someone advice me please. I have a ford focus with DOHCs. I did my timing belt yesterday and noticed that the intake cam pulley timing marks were off by 160-170 degrees. Crankshaft lined up with the exhaust cam. The car runs perfect before and after belt replacement. There was tool marks on the cam pulley and was just wondering what exactly they could have done for it to be almost 180 degrees out.
If it's out it wont run perfectly. On turning the engine the cams don't rotate at the same speed as the crankshaft.
YOUR CLEANLINESS WOULD PUT A MEDICAL SURGEON TO SHAME.
Mark Leman Haha I’m in the wrong profession! 😷
Really not necessary to torque the cam nut fully to 110 ft ibs between each cam gear adjustment. Just tight enough to keep it all together. It is the pin that is keeping the cam gear from rotating, not the nut torque. Like wise it is not necessary to hold the cam from moving during the nut torque. Obviously it must be held to counteract the tightening but a little movement will not effect valve timing as again the pin is holding the relationship between cam and cam gear. I find it very time saving to set up gages on both #1 and #4 during this operation, then you can rotate the crank quickly and check both sides, back and forth against each other. Voila
You'd be amazed how much play there is in the pin on the cam sprocket. I agree 110ft lbs is a lot but I don't want things to slip. Yes dual gauges would be the way to go!
Why is there different separation between the intake and exhaust lobes on the two banks? I can't seem to wrap my head around that.
Not sure I follow you Ryan?
I assume Porsche uses this adjustable system for cam timing, as opposed to one position, so that it is easy for someone to change the timing from standard to compensate for chain wear or custom specs. Is that correct?
Not so much chain wear but you can alter the cam timing to tune your power band.
do use every model the rocker seals? I was reading my hayness workshop manual, there are didn´t say nothin about it. Only talk about to screw rockers...
thank you
hi dude, i love your videos, right now im going to timing one 1974 porsche turbo engine rebuild but i would love to buy the sr 51 cam nut tool to do it better can you tell where did you buy please
Stomski Racing!
Great info 👍, thank you
How long you have been doing this kind of work if you don't mind asking
Only since owning the Canary. Never worked on any car before this experience.
just amazing you know the details so completely and competently then. it's a completely terrifying level of knowledge needed to do this work
My god..that’s quite the timing procedure. Surely after figuring out all of the other marvels on this engine, they could have come up with something better for this. And I thought I let loose a lot of profanity with some of the Subaru’s! Is there a set of proper tools/indicators or whatever for this that a actual Porsche tech would have or not really? I don’t really see how you would do it differently? Great work anyways.. thanks for sharing.
You had a dial indicator and a set of feeler gages and it had to be done quickly. BTW original Subaru engine was a Borgward design. I think Subaru internal torques for many engine parts are far too high.
I did this on my 2.7 35 years ago apparently I did something right it’s still running well but why did you take it all apart again?
Good for you Neal! Not as bad as I thought
To your dad. Cheers.
Cheers.
LMAO!! I will join you with the profanity mode. But WOW when you get it right it’s a revelation.
Sure is!
15 years later, all I have to do now is adjust the cam setting and tear it all down.
Nearly as slow as me Declan!
yup you have to be fussy on engine building!!
this shows some of that!!
and yes you have to buy the best tools to make any engine builder look good!!
bad quality tools = bad engine build!!
it is funny how just a bit of off in the specs stacks up to large numbers off on the many parts!!
and also knowing where to make things closer and larger on the specs...
that is what makes a good engine tuner!! (precision builder)
I work with the Kent motors as well as the Cosworth setups...
tricky when you are building 980hp setups.
just a smidge here and there makes 20 to 40 hp difference!!
are you going to dyno this after the build?
nice to have a break in run up!!
before installing in the car!!
980hp! I'm guessing the dyno will say around 130hp.
First I must mention, I have enjoyed this series and will sub... BUT... I don't want like I am being picky, here... The torque specs you aimed for are wrong, on the cam nuts.... I thought maybe in video No. 5, that you would have rectified this, as you are in this video just setting timing and lash, and would do a final proper torque spec when done.... Any time you use a tool/attachment that will change the length of fulcrum point of a torque wrench, you need to add or subtract the length for proper required torque spec. Meaning, on one cam nut, you are under torqued by about 7 % of the 110 you were shooting for, and the other side, you were over torqued by about 7%... I speculate that things will be just fine for the life and performance of the engine, so I am not saying you have anything to worry about on those two location, due to their sizes.. but there was, I think in video number 1, you had a attachment in that one, (the connecting rod fasteners) that may have allowed the over torquing of 15 to 20 % the specs, yes, the yield stretch measured in the range to specs +/-, again, it was not stated that you adjusted for the torque wrench attachments additional length past the fulcrum's pivot point... Just a heads up. You may have already calculated for the fulcrum differences when using said attachment to the torque wrench, but it was not stated in the video... Again, Please note, I am not trying to sound overly critical here, but just for future reference, The small the fastener is, the critical the specs are to damage, stripping out of the threads, over yielding, or the fastener just simply coming loose.... Either way, This brought back many memories watching this engine rebuild, and I really enjoyed this...
Thanks,
Are you in the Canary Islands?
No in the US.
I JUST WATCH 4 VIDEOS OF YOU PUTTING IT TOGETHER !!!!!!!! AND NOW YOUR TAKING IT ALL APART ????? AAAHAHHHHAHH!! >> on to video #5 hope you put some paint on the block !!!!! Well see!! >> ON TO VIDEO #5 !!!! WWWEEEEEE
Flat rate agency work is the Bain of any thorough technician. The boss will accept running the job up to the maximum number of flat rate hours but at that point the technician is losing money on his labor. Beyond flat rate and the boss will have you in his office possibly to let you go. Only one tech one engine work gets attention such as this. OK is fine with the boss and sadly not OK work won't get you fired. A technical misstep gets the customer back in the shop and back on the clock. That is the business side of the techs job.
Why timing this thing so complicated. It doesn't look it one.
WHERE THERE ANY SPECIAL TOOLS YOU DID NOT PURCHASE. ( RETIRED HEAVY EARTH MOVING MECHANIC.)
Mark Leman I used a lot but there are still more check out Stomski racing’s website!
Pretty Easy really,lol
Adjusting it all and then tearing it back down??? What kind of idiotic engineering is that?
There are other ways of doing it but for me this was the easiest believe it or not!
@@kavs911 When Porsche built these engines in the factory surely they didn't tear it down after setting the cam timing ? There must be another way of doing this task without double doing. I'm planning on rebuilding my 3.2 soon so need as much good info as possible.
@@billgaytes6845 Porsche knew all of the tolerances for each motor so it was easy. I'm using custom high compression pistons and stock heads, I need to measure as it's not 'standard'.
Horrible music
More horrible music! Hard to find good royalty free stuff.