A closer look at the cylinders | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 26
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2023
- With this new scope we do a little more exploration. Possible trouble ahead.
Depstech DS550 camera: www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXX8LTG8
Entire oil burning playlist: • Oil Consumption Experi...
#1zz #oilburner #corollalovers
Music:
Sunshine Samba by Chris Haugen
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this RUclips channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result.
Entire oil burning playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj
The oil coming down the valve is a result of your issue. The issue is clogged oil rings and/or scored cylinder walls. This creates blowby which allows the crankcase pressure to blow oil through the pcv. It's a never ending cycle of oil burning. I actually found my 1st compression rings were nice and tight and in spec. The 2nd compression ring was worn well past spec and allowing excessive amounts of blowby oil consumption. Without removing the head and looking at the cylinder walls it is hard to tell what shape they are in. You can still see good cross hatching even with the scoring. It is going to come down to how deep that scoring is. A quick cylinder hone at home and new rings could probably solve your issues.
Makes sense. Good info, Brandon!
Total seal, the piston ring company, has some great info on cylinder honing. Turns out an engine's cylinders are the most highly engineered surface on the planet. Honing with a single grit is a good start but won't last as long as a multi grit, plateaued surface. Ultimately that depends on your budget and how long you want to keep the car of course for your ROI.
If you take the oil cap off while the engine is idling that could give you an idea of the level of blowby. Slight vacuum is ideal, more than likely you'll feel outward pressure. Also in many new engines the 2nd "compression" ring is more for oil control than not. Some have a hook design to scrape down what the bottom oil rings miss. If you do tear it down, some close ups of the rings will answer some questions
@@FamilyFriendlyDIYsince you've tried all other oil treatments I'd like to see an engine restore test as a last ditch effort You've ran enough cleaner through that engine if they were clogged up their not now and restore would fill up the scratches and scores in the cylinder walls
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Dave what about doing a Kerosene flush to clean the oil rings and holes . 3 Quarts of kerosene and one quart oil
2010 Camry 2.5L 4cyl 0w-20 synthetic started using oil more frequently after 210k mi currently at 250k mi….I never follow/subscribe to videos but I made an exception here. I’m really impressed with your approach and I’m anxiously waiting for the next episode to drop.
I’m bout to try atleast three Berryman’s soaks and see what I get…
I may also have Interesting tidbit in relation to Berrymans main component Xylene…
I used to work in an oil refinery that had both light end Hydrocarbons (like Xylene/naphtha) and heavy hydrocarbons (like asphalt/burnt crude)….
Even though it wasn’t “safe” the most effective “cleaner” we had for cleaning heavy hydrocarbons like super sticky sludge, asphalt, Or cooked carbon was the product from our gasoline unit which contained a lot of xylene…
As is turns out this “cleaned” so well due the solubility of the “cleaner” and the “mess” since both were a hydrocarbon base both we’re quite soluble with each other which allows the clean light end product to grab the heavier dirty stuff….I found this out while studying Chemical engineering thermodynamics for a ChemE degree I’m trying to complete.
I feel like if my engine and its parts (rubber seals and such) can tolerate running a higher concentration of Berrymans through the oil system I might make some progress assuming it just my rings being seized
I really appreciate this input Zach. You've shared a lot of good information. Thank you!
The crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls looks great for 200k miles.
The fact that these puddles of oil reached the intake runners means that you have excessive blowby in your crankcase forcing excessive oil through the pcv. Therefore:
1- while a catchcan may prevent oil reaching the combustion chambers you will still lose oil and will need to empty the catchcan VERY frequently.
2- you have finally proved that the core problem is with your rings.
There is no way around it! You will have to open the engine to replace/clean up the rings.
In a way, this means more of your videos which I personally found very useful. So, thank you for sharing. I learned alot from you.
excessive crankcase pressure pushing oil past the PCV due to clogged catalytic converter was my problem, same thing as yours, I'd put some money on it if I was a betting man. I tried eveything, just like you did. pulled out the cat and ran it for 400 miles and it stopped smoking/burning oil, so I put a new cat in from Rockauto and problem solved!
Hmmm. I scoped the cat though, and though it was dirty, it wasn't clogged.-- I think it's an aftermarket freeer flowing cat.
Fascinating turn of events eonsidering you have a new oem PCV valve and fresh valve stem oil seals. I wonder if the valve guides themselves are worn? Oil catch can may be adequate stop gap solution.
I really enjoyed this series and been following it since video 5.
I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla with the 1zz-fe engine that had a similar oil consumption issue. I would like to articulate my experiences and the research that ultimately solved my issue and give further insight into the potential causes of this common issue.
I inherited my Corolla at about 230k miles. My dad owned it from 20k miles and diligently changed the oil at least every 8-9k miles with full synthetic mobile 1 5w-30. There were no major oil consumption issues with it when I got it. At most 1 qt every 5-8k miles.
I ran the synthetic for awhile but ultimately switched over to a conventional 5w-30 high mileage blend and maintained the same oil change interval (~8k miles). Thinking it was an older engine and would benefit from a thick high mileage oil or that it wouldn’t really matter at the point in the vehicles lifespan.
Shortly thereafter I began having serious oil consumption issues and observed oil smoke coming out the tail pipe while coasting down hill in gear (manual transmission).
Oil consumption was up to 1 qt every 400 miles. I realized that something was wrong and began throwing every trick in the book at it. Switched back to Mobile1 full synthetic. Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel every gas fill up. Put MMO in the crankcase oil 50 miles before each oil change. Several of these MMO/ oil changes treatments at short intervals (every 2k miles 3 times in a row). Berrymans B12 in a similar fashion. Sea foam in similar fashion. It did little to alleviate the oil consumption issue.I tried thick weight oils, Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w-30, little change. Changed the PCV valve, did nothing. Never did attempt to replace the valve stem oil seals but by then I had done a lot of reading on Toyota forums about the early 1zz-fe engines and had a hypothesis as to what was occurring.
By 2020 the car had 280k miles and oil consumption had increased to 1 qt every 200 miles! I kept feeding it oil and it ran just as well as ever, good fuel economy to boot (37-39 mpg). So I kept running it and feeding it oil. One trick you can employ is to overfill the crankcase by 1 qt maximum. Toyota engineers actually sanctioned this as a stopgap solution when the frequent oil burning issues of the early 1zz-fe engines came to their attention. The additional 1qt does not interfere with the oil pump operation or come into contact with the crankshaft rotation.
Ultimately the engineers determined that the oil return holes in the side of the piston skirts were too few and of too small diameter for severe service oil change intervals. These holes allow the lubricating oil in between the piston and the cylinder walls to circulate back to the crankcase. Considering most people don’t follow normal or severe service oci (oil change interval) it’s inevitable to occur at some point. When the oil is fresh, changed often, and/or of good quality these oil return oil holes are barely adequate to prevent stagnant oil from accumulating between the piston and cylinder wall. When degraded oil stagnates in this area it leads to deposits of carbon that ultimately stick the piston rings. Because of inadequate circulation of fresh oil between the piston skirt and cylinder wall these deposits form and act as “condensation nuclei “ for further carbon deposits to form on the piston skirt leading to further cylinder scoring exacerbating the oil consumption problem. The problem may never occur if you use full synthetic oil at very short oil change intervals. However if you’re running conventional oil, or long oil change intervals with synthetic, the issue is almost guaranteed to occur at some point.
Later versions of the 1zz-fe were manufactured with more oil return holes 2002-2006 had (4) holes in each piston skirt instead of the earlier 1999-2001 engines that had (2) holes per piston.
I believe by the time the 2007-2008 engines came into production they had (8) holes per piston.
Ultimately my solution came at 320k miles when I replaced the engine with a later model year low mile used jdm engine. Any 1zz-fe engine from any Toyota make and model 2000-2008 will work. You may have to swap a few ancillary parts. I had to retain my original alternator bracket and flywheel to swap over but everything dropped right in.
Some people take the time to disassemble the engine, replace rings, re home cylinder walls and drill additional oil return holes in piston skirts. That is the minimum to fix the oil consumption issue, but at that point you may as well do a complete engine rebuild (bearings and every oil seal timing belt and water pump). For me the cost of a used low mile engine ($800) and the labor involved worked better for my situation at the time.
The ultimate takeaway is run full synthetic oil at short oil change intervals (5k). Your engine will always be happier and run longer with clean quality oil.
If you don’t have oil consumption issues do not switch over to a high mileage or conventional blend. Maintain synthetic oil changes at frequent intervals (5k) and the engine should last half a million miles no problem. By the time I swapped the engine at 320 K miles I was up to 1 quart of mobile1 15W-45 every 100 miles to keep her from oil starvation but still delivered reliable economical daily service (albeit protesting with every O2 sensor code in the computer).
Car is now up to 350 K thousand miles on the original transmission, with the new engine and still performing useful daily service! All things considered even with the engineering deficiencies in the early piston skirt design it’s amazing how long these Toyotas go and go!
Miles and more to you all!
My cylinder walls were gone, got them bored over and new wiesco pistons. Hope that helps. 180,000 miles
Great info. I think this will help a lot of people.
Wow this is extremely informative and helpful! Thank you for taking the time to share.
Thanks for the kind comment, Josh!
I replaced the rings on my 99 as I said a while ago. I was burning a bit less oil than you. ring grooves were gunked up with a hard carbon including the oil ring expander and all piston drain holes were clogged. I drilled them out with same size bit then used 1 size larger to open up a bit more than stock. did valve stem seals and head gasket too of course. I don't burn any oil anymore. it's not that bad of a job, especially on these without any vvti. I used this as a guide "Toyota Nation Forum DIY: Oil Consumption Fix" I know you've developed a thing here with trying chemicals but eventually you may just have to bite the bullet and fix it. For chemicals, I'm going to recommend Berkebile 2+2 gum gutter again. It's the only thing I've used that dissolves carbon. At least read the reviews on it. You could spray a quarter of a bottle into each cylinder, put plugs back in so it doesn't dry out and wait a few days for it to do it's thing and then repeat with a second bottle, maybe turn the crank by hand back and forth a bit every day to help the rings move around while it's in there. bottom line is the piston rings and oil rings need to free up and the drain holes need to clear out or it won't stop burning oil. you may have freed the rings by now, but those clogged tiny drainback holes will be difficult to clear. if anyone has a corolla 1998-2007 1ZZ-FE 1.8L you should always use a good synthetic oil and change it every 3000 miles. the cleaner the oil, the less chance the suspended carbon will "cook" onto the pistons and into the drain holes. This isn't one of those Toyota motors that you can neglect and get away with it like some of the others. The 2AZ-FE 2.4L also suffers from this issue and should be treated with the same care.
I hope he considers it......I have an idea that I thought about. Fill the cylinder with acetone or as you suggested, then drop down an ultrasonic transducer which may cavitate the cleaning fluid thru the coked up ring lands & holes!!!!!
My Patent declared here!!!!! LoL
Thanks for the advice. I'd never heard of that. Looks like it's mostly acetone, toluene, and xylene. www.berkebileoil.com/uploads/1/6/3/3/16336494/b101.pdf
Most of the more experienced "Commenters" here are probably right the rings need to be replaced. I would see if there are either OEM or Aftermarket higher tension rings than the stock ones that came with engine as the replacement rings. BMW M54 engine had the same issues with oil consumption and replacing them with higher tension rings solved the issue. The lower tension rings were used to give better mpg. But if you are burning oil, it makes no sense, $$$ wise or pollution wise to have lower tension rings and use 0w-20. Before you "Rebuild" the engine, you may consider replacing the air filter, PCV and adjust the valves for their proper clearances even though it is not on service interval, "SeaFoaming the intake valves," change the oil with Rotella W15-40 Diesel oil and check to see how bad the consumption is. My guess is that the consumption will be lowered but the rings will still need be replaced. Good Luck. I have enjoyed series. We have an older Honda Accord that has a "similar" issue.
first cylinder WOW that are some still very nice honing marks! Daaaaymn
i forgot you have to be a video editor in addition to your many other talents. hats off to you sir. glad it was a nice day to be working outside
Thanks. Yeah, I probably spend at least 4x the time editing as I do recording.
Hi Dave, Ive been watching this series primarily because my daughter has a 2012 Audi A4 2.0T. Notorius for stuck piston rings. The car was burning through a quart of oil every 360 miles. About 4 weeks ago I did a 3 day piston soak similar to what you have been doing. I used Berryman's "Professional" Chem Dip. The car has now been driven 800 miles and has not burned a drop of oil. I am extremely surprised at the results and thinking the problem may be fully fixed. If your still having issues with the Toyota give the Berryman's Professional Chem Dip a try.
I did the same thing to my Rav4 2006, from a consumption of 400 miles a quart now I have it run 2500 miles and only 1/2 quart has been consumed
That's great to hear, and thanks for the suggestion!
Two things-- Back in the day we were schooled that if you took a car that has been using oil for say the first 20k of miles and then changed to synthetic oil the tolerances and seals would be effected as the synthetic was a thinner oil by nature (ie leaks and blow-by). Even a heavier viscosity synthetic. So switching back to regular oil might lessen the blow-by. I do agree that the oil seems to be coming past the valves from your videos. With all the discoloration seen from them. Hard to believe you've got blow-by occurring with the compression shown. Might want to double check you oil temp indicator. As if the oil is actually hotter than what it should be that could possibly cause oil to blow-by. Installing an oil cooler might also solve most of your problem as cooler oil is naturally thicker. And of course a build up of pressure in the crankcase could cause blow-by. GL Jim
You might want to test crankcase vacuum. It should only be around 2-3 in. Hg. at idle (highest intake manifold vacuum, 17-18 in Hg) if the pcv is metering correctly. You can use the fresh air tube by the oil cap to test it. You might want to scope the baffle in the valve cover for the pcv and make sure oil can't splash oil on the pcv valve. The drain back holes in cylinder head should also be clear. Otherwise, the oil in the intake runner seems normal for the underlying condition with oil control rings. The pooling of oil are just low spots. The crankcase shouldn't be pressurized from blowby because your compression and leakdown tests were good. It is more than likely excessive crankcase oil vapor from lack of control of oil on the cylinder walls. A catch can should lessen the recirculation of vapor. An egr delete could also help in the same way but this system uses exhaust vvt to provide egr functions. Either way oil consumption will continue until the rings are addressed. I think soaking the rings with solvents (ac delco 10-3015) without the engine running is a better route. It eliminates reintroducing contaminants while cleaning.
I did notice two different oem pcv part numbers OE No. 12204-22040, 41 and OE No. 12204-22050, 51. The 41 version seems to cover only 2001-2008 Corollas.
You know Dave, as I already said, when there's any restriction on the intake system (like a dirty air filter) the engine starts to suck more from the pcv system and more oil mist. Glad to see isn't a head gasket issue!
I dont know why i never thought of that and i even owned a geo metro that liked to suck up oil like a straw through the pcv.
@@DeusKDuo Yep.
Thanks for the advice ... I'll look into that.👍
Outside edge, on top of piston is clean in places, tells me oil is getting by the rings.
I posted several times to replace the PCV valve or do a catch loop prior to this. I have a Kia and that is what caused severe oil burn on a motor with less than 100K. Once I got a good working PCV all oil burn stopped. Love your channel. Thanks for alll your hard work.
Someone was inside this engine, and the cross hatch pattern in the cylinder wall is too distinct for this high of mileage. Running a full synthetic oil will not allow the engine to break in properly. This is because synthetic oils have superior shear properties. Also, the oil baffle in valve cover could be installed wrong or missing.
Another thing to think about when the Berrimans was used is that some cylinders did drain, and more had to be added. This thinned the oil and allowed it to drain past the rings. When the engine is run, oil is entered into the cylinders and coats the walls. When a compression test is run, the oil seals up the rings. So you end up with good numbers.
Brand new engines come filled with synthetic. Covettes have been that way for years.
I said the same above regarding an issue with the baffle, & try to modify it......
The engine needs to break in. During the break in the rings, and seat them selves. This takes up to 1000 miles of driving. Typically, a break in oil is used during this time. Break in on the corvette, maybe done before the engine is installed. By running the engine on a dynamometer or stand. During the break-in process with the break in oil. If the engine uses a dry sump, this will make it easier to do in a production environment.
I suspect excessive blowby past the rings pressurizing the crankcase and causing the oil forced into the intake so still a ring issue in my humble opinion
Thanks, Jeffie. That's actually encouraging. I was beginning to think all the past videos were for nought.
All that entertainment value is not a loss bro @@FamilyFriendlyDIY
So here's an idea for the new camera. Next time you drain the oil send the cam up the drain plug hole & check out the under sides of the pistons.
Maybe the drain back holes will be visible.
big brain comment here 👍
I thought about that, but I think there is a large baffle in the way ... someone correct me if I'm wrong.
LOVE THE PROGRESS! IM ADDICTED
Thank you!!
Once again excellent job. Really like the series.
glad youre still doing this
if there is some oil residue at intake, that could mean a lot in real case. because the air flow will clean up most of oil very quickly. your evap codes might related to the oil consumption as well. if evap valve is stuck somehow, it might change the vacuum at pcv. i have 2 cars, an SUV has some 1.5 qt/5000 miles, oil consumption issue, but very good 26 mpg, no soot at exhaust pipe. another sedan 216 k mileage, no obvious oil consumption, but 21 mpg, black exhaust pipe. i am also trying different additives to improves mpg or reducing the oil consumption. Hope both cars can run as far as they could. so far not much good luck. now i turned to clean up the pcv, spark plug etc. watched all your oil consumption videos. thank you for your time and input
I got a DS520 when they went on sale not too long ago when I was checking to make sure my '10 Prius had a blown head gasket (Eric O. made a post telling everybody about it). Running it down into cylinder 1 it was an easy 100% pid. Piston was clean as a whistle. Pretty happy with the quality of it.
Great video .I have been going to buy a Endoscope there are many on the market .This is the first review that I have seen .This brand looks nice and solid.Thanks..
Looks to be a stuck pcv valve! I'd like to see the update changing out/ updating the pcv.
Very interesting!
I did see what looked like a piston pin groove on one cylinder wall so there is that and it may be enough to increase the level of blowby to a level sufficient to cause excess PCV flow however so can a stretched out timing chain/belt or partially collapsed lifters putting the valve timing slightly off. I'd be concerned about that piston pin groove and keep and eye on it as a broken or out of place circlip can eventually require a rebore or cylinder sleeve to repair. A partially clogged catalytic converter or an exhaust restriction can also cause excess blowby making it through the PCV system.
If that is one of Toyota's VVT engines the Variable Valve Timing getting out of sync/adjustment could also cause issues with oil consumption from blowby.
I haven't followed all the videos in this series so have to ask if you did a dry and then wet compression test before you began or after any of the various treatments to see if there have been any changes?
Best!
Episode 26, Wow!
Nice shots with the scope. I believe you will be surprised what you catch with the can. Looking forward to the results 😉
There he is! Thanks man :-)
If I recall Toyota had an issue with the. Breather baffles under the valve cover not allowing the PCV valve to properly breath , either way the valve cover baffles had to be cleaned or replaced , ???
Good advice! I said the same above, & modify it!
If the pcv system is blocked, the crankcase pressure would cause oil to be pushed out seals and gaskets. Too much blowby from piston sealing will defeat the oil/vapor separation design in the valve cover and allow excessive oil into the manifold. Not rocket science.
the cylinder walls are toasted. i can clearly see the vertical scratches coming from the piston
Great video!!! 📹 🎥
saw your neighbor's rc plane. love them too
Try using engine restorer it helps i use the them on my cars
If it's the PCV, it will only be the intake. If it's the valve seals, it would be only the ones not fully functioning. If it's both, you'll have intake plus a random exhaust valves with it. Those valves on the inside look incredible though! (minus the oil). That definitely is oil though, you can see on a few of them, that there's a bubble starting to form when you open them. You have so much compression on that engine, that you're getting unintended blowby causing the oil to go through the PCV. Oil burning is something these engines are notorious for. Toyota made them too well, with such good power, that the oil burning wasn't really considered as a defect, until people realized it was burning a LOT of oil. I think that you may have figured out the root cause now.
If Toyota made them "to well" then it wouldn't be an oil burner from the factory. It's a design flaw to have the engine pushing so much blow by to be burning that much oil. Which = a bad design. Not being designed to well.
@@williamallen7836 Show me any other manufacturers engine that has over 180psi at 200K miles on all cylinders across all engines. They corrected the problem later. Cars are allowed a certain percentage of oil burning. This was within spec at the time. At least it's not BMW, stating a quart in under a thousand miles is normal. And that's from not just burning oil either.
@@squishy312 Nothing is "to well" about those year of Corolla. Starting from shitty suspension, Evap & the piston design. I have owned 2001 and burned oil & exhaust smelled like %$$#t every time i started it. They are so overrated just because they are good on gas and cheap to fix. I now own 2006 Corolla and it is like made by a different company. Gen 8 just suck period.
Thats a nicd bit of kit. Im going to try the b12 soak on my zafira to see if it helps. Ive been following youf videos for a couple of months now and thst seems to be what actually made any kind of difference.
Will be interesting to see what you can find with the new camera though. Keep up the great work
Thanks, and please let us know how your soak goes. 👍
Love the videos
Great work on car and home
Much appreciated, Michael!
I tried doing the B12 piston soak on my 2AF (2002 Camry). There was so much carbon on the pistons, that they broke apart and ended up going in between the exhaust valves and the head, thus causing very low compression. I pulled the exhaust manifold and tried using a tiny brush to remove the carbon from the valve sealing surfaces, but that didn't work. I ended up pulling the entire engine out and doing a full rebuild. The oil drain holes on the pistons were so clogged, that I had to use small drill bits to break the carbon through.
Yuck.
That camera is awesome!
You may be right that you had more then 1 issue causing oil burning which is why b12 helped but didnt eliminate.
I have been watching this series for some time. I suspect what you are getting is oil from the PCV. A catch can won’t stop the oil consumption, only relocate where the oil is getting deposited. On that engine, the PCV goes into the valve cover behind a baffle. That baffle can become unsealed or dislodged from the valve cover. On some of the valve covers, the baffle is right where the oil fill is. When some people use a funnel, it can push down on that baffle, allowing oil to get around the baffle and sucked by the PCV. Pull your valve cover, make sure the baffle is in place correctly and seal it to the valve cover if necessary.
Great info
I’ve got a similar model Toyota and have had serious oil consumption issues that I only recently discovered. These videos have been really helpful. Just replaced my PCV v/h and my valve cover gasket which was beyond bad. The consumption has slowed but hasn’t gone. I also got a Depstech (2-lens version) and still need to review the footage but fairly certain I saw quite a bit of oil build-up around the intake valves. I may try to replace the O-Ring on the Camshaft Position Sensor and the Timing Chain Tensioner but pretty convinced my rings need replacing :-/. Thanks for posting these
All the best with your Toyota!
Score!!!!!! Way to go in getting a freebie!!!!
Personally I can't wait to see you do the rings! I want to bring to your attention something called WPC treatment. I'm planning on getting it done to my piston ring lands and rings before I do my Lamda II (Known for ring/oil burning issues)
Having the same problem and now I want to check intake side too
⚠M/E Wagner Performance makes a Dual Flow Adjustable PCV ⚠ but 1st be sure at this point to buy a genuine Toyota PCV for accurate calibration, or maybe they have updated the calibration on the PCV. Besides adding the catch can, I'd also try to redesign any baffling if possible if its accessible in the valve cover & add course stainless steel scrubble, or #0 3M stainless wool & secure it to keep the oil in the crankcase but the blow by oil is contaminated & needs collected......BUT FOR THE ULTIMATE SOLUTION:
As I've said a few times;
at this point a $14 bottle of Schaffer's 132 & a low Moly 10/40 oil since Antimony in the Schaffer (a very good anti-wear) will compete with an oil with a high amount of Moly.
#132 is made to stop oil burning & has a lot of Antimony which will work itself into the ring pack to free it up.....Schaffers been around for 175yrs & knows what they're doing in blending robust formulas & chemistries.
I also recommend you look into a totally different chemistry to dissolve any carbon with advanced vegetable based oil!!!!!
Yes, Bio-Oils far exceed petroleums & many synthetics. They clean even better than esters. Renewable Lubricants is the leader & also uses Antimony as their anti-friction / anti-wear component.
Read up on this Scientific Paper: "10.5.2 Stabilized™ HOBS": Hybrid grown HOBS are modified agricultural vegetable oils which show performance improvement over petroleum-based oils in nearly all categories of lubricant properties (see Section 5.3.1). Monounsaturated triglycerides provide optimum oxidative stability and low-temperature properties. The oxidative stability of high-oleic oils is three to six times greater than conventional vegetable oils.........
The most expensive oil rout is to switch to Cummins formulated for oil burning big CAT diesels called ValvolinePremiumBlueRESTORE & can only be bought at Cummins dealer at $80 a gallon. It was formulated with an exotic ester blend to free up ring packs under warranty vs. a $10k warranty claim rebuild!
Saw your neighbours, bought one ! Thanks for the heads up.
👍👍
If oil is coming from top, would oil catch can help?
I think it would stop some oil going to combustion chamber via PCV system
If your car has a timing chain..make sure timing chain tensioner is not leaking. The O ring on the tensioner could be the culprit also check timing chain cover gasket.
Thanks. I did that in the valve stem changing video. ruclips.net/video/dIxDj90UHnk/видео.html
I love the home improvement videos. This is Day 1 of asking for the rest of the apartment build vodeos!
Thanks :-) ... if the views ever pick up on those, I'll finish them.-- I think I recorded most of it.
I bought the dual lens after the last time you used one. It was on sale for $79. Can’t beat it.
Sweet!
got some devent scoring on those piston bores. That will be letting compression past the rings into the crankcase and forcing oil mist into the pcv system. valve stem seals might be a bit old but you would have bulk carbon on the exhaust valve stems if that was the case.
well... as I have always said... the valve stem seals... aaaand that b52 🤤
All of the oil usage could have plugged up your Catalytic Converter. Even if it looks OK, it might be not working well, causing back pressure.
Perhaps liquiMoly products could help: engine flush, injector valve cleaner; and molibdenum and ceratec (both friction reducers that bond to metal and keep engine clean, added to new fresh oil)
Would adding Berrymans B12 to the gas every 1000 miles keep the rings free?
The new camera makes a big difference. Looking forward to the next episode
Much appreciated!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY DIY Dave never quits on a project
To check if it is faulty valve stems seals see if it pushes out smoke after it is hot and left idling for a few minutes since this is an indictor of valve stems leaking rather than rings.
Finally ,is. the problem pcv valve,
Or is it nessery to be replaced?
Yea, the good ole PCV valve. However, it's also possible that the piston rings are still causing the issue pushing oil through the PCV valve which also explains why your spark plug seals are leaking even after replacing because of the excessive crank case pressure. If you want to experiment, you can try venting the crank to atmosphere or use a catch can to see if oil consumption has changed which I don't think it will. Usually when PCV valve is clogged up, you will get increased oil consumption as the oil is being pushed pass the piston rings into the cylinders but not back into the intake manifold. The scored cylinder walls are from the piston skirt hitting the wall. I would imagine the engine has some kind of piston slap when cold?
You said the cylinders look good, but looked like some vertical scoring on them? Am I missing something?
normal, as long as the vertical scores don't wipe out the cross hatch I wouldn't worry. I would absolutely drop in new pistions and NOT hone this motor. I have a dial bore gage and I would be more interested in the area at the top of the cylinder where the ring travel change directions. You can see the two distinct marks of the top and bottom compression rings.
If it there was .003" difference between the minimum and max measurements, either taper or out of round, than you should probably have it bored for oversized pistons if available... this shitbox, standard pistons and carry on with life.
I could be wrong, but I've looked through the some of the pro mechanics videos, and they say that light scoring is okay, as long as there isn't a deep dished out spot that goes through the cross-hatch.
Don't forget about blow by. Did you do a leakdown test?
What i you do the BG dynamic engine flush with rinse oil. Not the EPR you did but the 300.00 big kit?
Coming eventually!
I would experiment with some 5w-40 oil. You could do what so many folks have always said not to do, which is mix some 5w-30 with maybe one-quart 5w-40. If that slows down the usage, then just top off with more 5w-40. If that works, then you will see less oil usage after each time that you top it off. If it doesn't work, you will know it. The catch can is a good idea but be sure to keep a close eye on it. Good luck with whatever you do. Thank you for showing your tests, this allows other folks {Such as myself} to learn from what you are doing.
the issue of crankcase pressure is overall the source I think, if you can upgrade the PCV to boost crankcase vacuum...might help the whole engie
Awesome series!! One suggestion that I haven't heard you discuss yet, although you might have (not sure). Have you considered removing the crankshaft and the pistons to see if you can free up the oil rings with the pistons out? I guess that would be the only way to free up the oil rings and it would make a very interesting episode, or two. You could test different methods to free up the rings with the pistons out, ultrasonic cleaning, heat etc.
Thanks, and thanks for the suggestion! If it comes to a tear down, we might experiment on the pistons.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Nice! I struggle with oil consumption on an old BMW. Going through many of the same steps that you do, but don’t wanna sell a crap car on to someone else before the issue is fixed.
Did you fix that check engine light Yet?
Dave what about doing a Kerosene flush to clean the oil rings and holes . 3 Quarts of kerosene and one quart oil
Hi! In Diesel motors, can this equipment entry in tiny hole of glow plug?
Yes
Wondering if you can adhere safely a smaller neodymium magnet inside the hook for more magnet grip action and field of view? Definitely want a strong bonding agent so the DIY magnet would come off. On another note, if you wanted to try another piston soak that I'm going to try once I get the Prius head off, is using the Wynns Air Intake Induction Foam soak overnight. I learned from Hai Nguyen on the Facebook Prius related groups as sounds like has been successful for him and he is a top percent Toyota Master Tech.
Though I should note that I was last left burning only about three quarters of a quart per 5 to 6000 miles. Come to find out, that is not a big deal.
I used liqui moly proline engine flush in my 2016 VW Golf 1.8tsi...one can of it idling for 15-20 min is all it took for it to stop my oil consumption which was 1 quart a week...im now happy to report that 1 month later the oil level on the dipstick has pretty much stayed at the top and even my tailpipe swipes is indicating no oil burning...only thing that worked was the liqui moly proline engine flush and make sure you drive the car for 30 min or so to get it properly up to operating temp, come back home, put the can in the oil fill, let it idle for 15-20min then drain and do your oil change
Also for 2 days before I did this I did a few runs of 20-30 minute Italian tune ups...hold revs at 4-5k rpm for 30 seconds to about a minute and make sure you are going up hill while doing this so there's more load on the engine...not necessary but it helps, then as you're going uphill just floor it to redline and go into the next gear and repeat...I was almost rolling coal in a gasoline VW GOLF...I also did this on the drive before I added the liqui moly proline engine flush
Good info!
Have you used the BG 3 step oil flush yet? That may do the trick.
That will be the next chemical ... once the catch can testing is over.
Are you going to have the catch can return the caught oil back to the oil pan?
I'll likely do it manually.
I haven’t been following the whole series as I’ve just subscribed. But, have you replaced your spark plug seals? Looks like the threads in the spark plug tubes have oil residue. So maybe oil is seeping in from the valve cover, common issue. But I guess if you’ve changed the valve cover gasket, the kits usually come with spark plug seals. Just wondering because you are seeing oil at the valve stem is possibly because of the exhaust gas recirculating for emissions. Unburnt oil in the exhaust gas recirculation system will collect on the valves and mix with carbon deposits. That is if of course only if that model Corolla has an egr valve, if not then disregard that part of my comment LoL.
Do you get smoke on startup? I was having similar oil burning issues with our 2020 Infiniti QX60. I tried flushes (EPR, liquimoli, xado) piston soak with B12, cleaning valves with B12/brake clean, thicker 5w20 royal purple HMX oil, replacing pcv valve, STP GDI valve clean and replacing spark plugs that were fouled by the oil burning. Nothing worked to stop the startup smoke or change the oil consumption from 1Q/500 miles. EPR and HMX oil stopped it for a couple days but it came back. Last week I bit the bullet and bought/performed the BG Dynamic Engine Restore procedure. So far the car has quit smoking cold turkey and gas mileage in town is about 3mpg better. When I was changing the spark plugs I had to remove the intake valve cover and I noticed it dripped some oil where I left it on the garage floor while replacing the plugs. I think that is the true cause of the problem, some port or valve in the crankcase is blocked and causing increased pressure to push oil into the PCV system then it drops down the intake and burns in the cylinders/valves. I have a few pictures of before/after the dynamic kit and some of the parts I could see through the oil fill with the scope went from covered in varnish and carbon/sludge to shiny steel. I’m a believer that it did some significant cleaning that the other flushes didn’t touch. The rinse oil smells like EPR, went in clear and came out 20 mins later looking like an overdue oil change.
Now that I possibly have the root issue resolved I’d like to clean up the valves pistons and plugs, seems like your video on Yahamalube ring free did the best “cleaning” of the pistons or maybe the B12 soak. What do you think worked better with least effort? To do the piston soak I have to take off the intake manifold to get to the back plugs which is a pain.
The Yamalube was definitely cake ... just add to tank, rightf?
That catch can looks like the one I bought. Buy some pcv hose instead of using the hose that comes with it (rather flimsy). Also, try and keep the hose length as short as possible on both connections. I watched a video where the guy stresses that the engine needs to vent as quickly as possible or you risk blowing a seal due to the increase pressure.
Don't forget that the gas injectors are behind the valves , so the fuel cleans the oil down to the piston room. So might be PCV or valve stem seals. Most likely valve stem seals because they are rubber and with high heat inside the engine will be solid and might cracked . Then wont prevent oil of leaking down.
maybe the stems are worn? have u changed the pcv valve?
Catch cans can increase crank case pressure and cause more oil to bypass rings and seals.
If the rings are cactus, you're going to be increasing crank pressure pushing oil through the PCV back into the intake.
It's a secondary issue with the oil in the intake. A catch can will make it worse. The blow-by is caused by something else.
Good info. Doing some tests of this theory now.
Another thought I had, combining the Berryman’s soak and the idea of being able to reach the drain back holes from the bottom side…
What if you did a Berryman’s soak, then with each cylinder in a compression stroke, intentionally hydro locked each cylinder while manually barring over the engine. The point being to force the fluid down past the rings and hopefully some will push open those holes and get more chemical process into the clogs, if not blowing them out entirely.
It's very hard to remove burnt carbon as people have found out on DI engines that no amount of liquid cleaner will loosen the carbon. The only way is to media blast the carbon off. I think the next step for Dave is to remove the pistons from the engine and inspect the rings.
The oil in the intake could be coming in from the PCV system but what could be causing it is more than likely worn piston rings causing excessive crankcase pressures. Or could be as simple as a bad pcv valve. I would invest in a compression tester or rent one from a parts store usually in the end its no cost. It would show more of a visual number of how healthy each cylinder is and may prove whether or not its a ring issue. If theyre all high then at that point it may be in the cylinder head possibly valve guide seals or a pcv system issue
He did compression tests before and all cylinders are ranging between 220 to 240 psi.
15:00 its definetly from intake/exaust valves that the oilnis coming from. Bad steam seals... or pcv system is trowing oil to the intake.... Test. At 3,4 mjnutel idling irev it trowns a clud of smoke? Or if you are in gear downhill... no trotle... and when press gas throws a clud of smome? If so, then your steam seal are shot!!! Buy a GOOD quality ones....
So a few things; I do think a catch can is going to kind of solve this problem, but unfortunately I don't think it's going to give you the result you're looking for. All it's going to do is catch all the oil that your engine is burning right now plus all the water vapor and turn it into a goopy nasty mess which you aren't going to put back in the engine anyways so you're going to have to keep adding oil into the engine which is the problem you're trying to solve is it not? I think the issue here is the baffle system under the valve cover which is allowing oil into it which is then sucked out via the PCV system and also possibly the crank case vent tube since at idle the PCV isn't open but if you have good amount of blow by you can also still push oil out of the crank case vent right into your intake track. Don't get me wrong catch cans are great, I put them on most of my vehicles, but I don't do it to solve oil consumption issues as that's not something it'll help with... Just my $0.02 :)
In the airforce we called them cannon plugs.on aircraft.
No expert here, but the walls look pretty bad with vertical scoring, that might me why there is oil, it seems that is trying to escape to whatever hole it finds, maybe one of those ceramic products or 20w50 or 25w60 will be nice test, but i think that the catch can will do its job but oil will continue to escape due to the scoring, good luck and very entertaining to see all the journey, keep up the good work
Thanks for the suggestions! -- and I appreciated the kind words!
I put an oil catch can on my Honda CR-V 2006 and after 1 year I was choked how much oil it accumulate in it , but I have to put half of quart every 700 miles.
but it burn oil or use oil? i first oil is in cylinder when it but fuel i second oil go and out
Being port fuel injected that engine would wash a lot of the ingested oil down in. The casting wouldnt appear that dirty till you go up past the injectors. Then probably real wet and crusty
Where’s the next episode?? You got me hooked
Working on it :-)
You should get an E 85 conversion kit for that car. There’s a company sponsoring people right now that provides these conversion kits.
Perhaps new rings would help. The cylinder walls look fine.
The bg enginw flush treatment should be tried. It saved me
At this point you can use Penrite 25w70 and delete PCV. If you can get the oil consumption down to 1 quart per 2000 miles I would deem that "fixed".
70w Harley Davidson motor oil + 4 bottles of STP, Motor Honey or the like. You'll exceed your oil change interval befor it gets low. ben/ michigan
70W 😲
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Don't do it. It will be the last in the series. 😁
...maybe in a test differential.
Lucas Engine complete it goes in the oil and the gas that works way better than berryman's
But you did do the valve stem seals right??
yep
Have you tried idling your car and placing a tissue or the oil cap loosely to see how much it’s blowing out? It should have no blowing
Yep (in a past video). It does blow a lot.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I’ve been watching a lot of your videos thankfully non of my cars have oil consumption and I do have a 2005 scion xb as well but your videos are interesting and I know you already know the problem but you are experimenting which is nice
The valve stems look fine on all but 2. That is normal varnish from unburnt gasoline. Normally when you do your compression test and leak down test it would clue you into to valve seals and valve guides. there is more oil on the face of the valves from the combustion side than any place else. So I would think intake/PVC issue!
👍
worn valve guides ? If there is too much play, the valve stem seals will not wor properly..also in a very late state, it may drop a valve
In hindsight, when I did the seals, I should have tried to do a wiggle test on them.