Trusty ol' G27 user here: this was a revelation, thank you (my imaginary personal trainer thanks you aswell). Have to do some tweaking because of slight clipping, but overall a big improvement. It gave me the consistency for longer races (changing conditions) i always lacked, and always missed the og AC FFB+ LUT feeling. I always read about "dont use any effects, JUST gain!", to use no min force, "use high frequency" etc. Glad i found out that i need quite the opposite (at least in ACC so it seems). I honestly think there should be some sort of Hint in the Menu for this kind of stuff. Who knows how many people got putt off because of bad settings ? especially "consumerwheel" drivers ? Keep up the great work, really enjoy ACC lately.
These smaller videos are more objective. I made the change suggested in my G29, with a little less gain (85%), and it was sensational. Thank you very much Aristoteles! Cheers!
Hi Aris! I'm setting up my first sim rig, and you're Sim will be the first I use. Being a mechanical engineer I love how you are so detail oriented with the physics. Can't wait!
Also, another tip I have for people with G27/G29, which helped me a lot, is to set the steering range properly, both in the logitech software and in the game. For example, at first I ran all cars at 900 degree. But then I started using custom values for every car, based on how much ACTUAL steering range cars have. For example, the 488 and 720S have a range of 480-490 degrees, so set that in logitech software, and then set that value in game as well. You get 1:1 ratio of your real wheel turning and the wheel in game turning, which not only looks and feel correct, but it takes away a lot of the deadzone in the middle, it makes the FFB stronger (so you can reduce gain, for example at 900 I had gain at 100% and it still felt weak, at 480 I have gain at 85% and it's strong enough), and it makes you actually turn the steering as much as you would in a real car, so the car drives and feels more natural too. And no, for some reason keeping your wheel at 900 degree but increasing the steering ratio in the setup of a car to make the steering more sensitive doesn't lead to the same effect, still leaves you with deadzone and loose feeling. Lexus, AMG and 2019 Aston have 640-650 degree range, 2019 Porsche around 800. When I want to drive a certain car, I set the proper value in logitech settings before starting the game. It's more tricky than just picking a car in game and driving, but it leads to a better FFB in my opinion.
Thanks for the discription of your wheelsettings. These are perfekt for the game and let feel so much of the car. How did you get the degree range for the different cars. Do you have a list for the rest of the cars you did not mentioned. Like BMW, Nissan, Labo, Audi, Honda, Bentley,... . That would help me and serveral people.
Just when I thought I had the perfect setup; Aris came along and set me straight with these settings. My DD1 is sliding me through apex’s with ease now. Thanks buddy Maybe a pedal setup video is next??? Hmmmm.... Keep up the great work
The advice from Aris is usually good and very much appriciated but after driving for a long time i still had almost no feeling of understeer (fast corners maybe feel it,slow none) that i have felt with most other sims and in real life (no i have not driven a real GT3 car). The changes mentioned in previous posts have transformed the sim for me.
@@Dani16433 They're pretty much Identical to the recommended settings on the Fanatec forums. The only difference is the steer lock settings. I know the steer lock settings for each car.
Grazie Ar1s! :) una cosa che ho trovato molto utile è il "FORCE" nel CSW 2.5, ti da la sensazione di sentire +/- la macchina in curva mentre sottosterza. Il problema è quando aggiornano i driver che , come dici tu, devi rifare tutta la memory del segnale xD.
@@manuelebetti1789 Ciao Manuele. Guarda io mi imposto ogni singola forza girando. Parti da un 60 di FFB e 70 di dynamic damper. Sul volante metti dri in negativo a seconda di come te lo senti meglio. FFB ti consiglio di partire tra i 60/80 come anche le altre forze. Damper e Spring non hanno effetto su ACC, dicono Messa questa base fatti qualche giro e regola ogni forza come più ti piace. Il FORCE regolalo a seconda di come senti la macchina a centro curva, almeno per me ha funzionato. Cerca di far lavorare la barra dell'FFB verso il centro e poco verso il massimo. E' un po' come regolare un equalizzatore musicale. Contano molto i driver che usi poi, ti consiglio i 346 per la 2.5. I nuovi non mi hanno dato delle belle sensazioni. 662 di firmware della base, 20 motor, NO 18 o 22. Trovi info qui: forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1054/fanatec-beta-driver-v346-for-csl-csw-and-podium-bases-all-wheels
The most important thing to get proper FFB, especially if you use a cheap wheel, is to run a Wheelcheck.exe, test for minimum force, and then make a custom LUT file of the response of your wheel. Then load that LUT file to the ACC config (instruction below) and use it. Damping at 0%, road effects at 0%, minimum damping at 0%. All of that is crap that adds nothing beneficial to the feel, but just saturates you FFB with a bunch of artificial effects. Raw FFB is what you want, because you'll feel the road, the curbs, the turning forces, the centering forces, the understeer, oversteer, etc. more clearly. And still get a proper amount of vibration from actual road surface. Gain at whatever you feel like as long as its not clipping. A custom LUT file takes away all issues with FFB. Even on crap wheels like my G27, which has a lot of deadzone and flat feeling in the middle, doing a custom LUT file almost totally eliminates that, the FFB feels sharp in the middle, almost no deadzone, and its very smooth and detailed when turning. I can feel exactly how the car loads up in the corners, and I can feel exactly when I'm at peak grip, and when I start understeering. Any setting in ACC itself without custom LUT file feels either too light, or too heavy and flat, lacking detail. Basically impossible to achieve a FFB that's strong enough to feel weighty, but at the same time detail. A custom LUT file changes that. That's because the information the game is sending to the wheel is not being reproduced by the wheel in stock form, since it's not linear... In fact, you should do this for EVERY sim once you generate the custom LUT file for your wheel, because almost no wheel out there has a linear FFB response, or in other words, it doesn't produce the same amount of force at all steering angles or all rotation rates. Look it up here: www.acc-wiki.info/wiki/Mods_and_Tweaks#WheelCheck_.2F_LUT_Generator:_FFB_Processing
I tried that custom LUT process several times as written down, but my ffb is totally gone afterwards. I got basically no resistance in my wheel when driving through curves and chicanes, just some spikes when driving over curbs, which feels pretty awkward. Can you tell me where i'm wrong? CSW 2.5 with Formula V2 All Settings in Driver on default ACC FFB : 100% (for testing purposes, otherwise 70%) everything else 0%, Rate 333 Hz.
@@mbm4481 I really don't know what could be wrong, I never experienced any issues like that following that procedure. Try making sure that your files are named correctly, located where they should be, etc. I don't know what could be causing that other than files not loading up properly.
@@derbigpr500 What about in game dynamic damping? You mention damping and minimum damping. Aris recommends 50% dynamic damping on my T300. So my current FFB is Gain 95% Min Force 0% Dynamic Damping 50% Road Effects 0% Just added the custom LUT. I guess I can try with 0, 50% dynamic damping and see
Yees!!! Now this sim has made sense!!! :))) By the way I have a question, if I can? Are slightly different sensations, compared to AC, caused by the tires? All the best Guys!!! You are number one for me :)
in Aris' words: Dynamic damping works constantly and becomes even more important as the speed raises. It is a result of the gyroscopic forces from the wheels. It makes the wheel more "unwilling" to move from whatever angle the front wheels point, and the faster you go the more it does so. That's why on some wheels would completely saturate the signal and cause a very flat FFB feelings. Also alienates some people that are used to a completely free rotating FFB wheel (wrongly but hey) because it gives an initial damping force in whatever rotation you force the wheel to go. The dynamic damping slider lets you configure more or less amounts of this force.
@@misterurlauber333 thanks but on ny wheel that effect is very subtle at 100 % DD while at the same time there is a big loss of FFB fidelity. It becomes particularly difficult to feel the point where tyre slip sets in. For me it is a total deal breaker so 0 % DD is the way. My wheel gives sufficent friction feel at 40-50 % gain already, so no need for more weight.
@@misterurlauber333 you should give it a go for like 4-5 laps with 0 % DD and push the car a bit in the corners. Where you really feel the difference is at the point where the front wheels break traction and the wheel goes light. By pushing the car like this I think you will find it is easier to find the limit of your traction and also prevent spins ☺ try and revert to 100 % DD in the same session and test the same.
@Aris I still don't get the advice to go to 100 % Dynamic Damping. On my Fanatec CSW 2.5 that totally kills FFB fidelity and especially the feeling of tyre slip disappears. I run with 0 % damping which feels fantastic (FEI = 50 on wheel). 50 % gain, 0 % min. force, 30 % road effects, 333 Hz. What is the 100 % damping improving?
Hi m8, I've just ordered myself the CSW 2.5 with formula v2 rim, I've upgraded from a T300RS, is it much better than that, and how do you find your wheel?
@@Cagefighter I switched from a G25 (gear driven), so big improvement for me. Much more smooth, strong and well defined FFB. But requires a bit of tuning of the wheel base settings (FEI is very important). Your old t300rs is belt driven like CSW 2.5 so probably also smooth. But it will be a big jump up in quality feel still. Especially the build quality of the actual rim is awesome. I have the F1 eSports wheel which is quite similar in quality to that you have ordered. You should really look forward to it :) Expensive as h*** but really nice equipment.
@Anders I totally agree. Once I turned the Dynamic damping OFF in game my steering wheel finally felt alive. With the standard setting of 100% my wheel was dead, especially through long corners. Using the CSL elite PS4 edition. I also have damping on the wheel set to 0. I find that it just adds unnecessary weight and kills the fidelity and tyre feel.
I probably cant post links here so on ACC forums under "ACC Physics" subforum there is topic "Dynamic Damper - Details" on first page. In there Aris explains damping setting in more detail
I've just started playing asseto corsa compitizone on a g920; when the car is not moving I get a really bad shake in the steering wheel, just vibrates like crazy. as soon as Im rolling the shake is gone. Does anyone else have this problem? is there a fix to this? doesn't happen in any other racing game I play just asseto corsa competizone
Could someone explain something to me. I come from real life karting, something which is extremely physical and lots of chassis and steering feedback. Strong enough to fracture your ribs. I have recently bought a DD1 wheel and noticed an odd trend online. People are turning road feedback to zero and dampening all the way to 100! Why would you get these high end ultra reactive wheels only to completely deaden the FFB experience? It makes absolutely no sense.
100% agree with you on this one! It's like they love driving around using sloppy, loose and lifeless reacting wheels. These settings are unrealistic. Shouldn't come down to "magic" between your brain and the physics.. The whole point surely is to react to the output, and the physical sensations the direct drive wheels send. Not this rubbish about training your brain to think what you think you feel.
wicked video. damping is a new setting compared to dynamic what should i set this to for g29? also what if I want a steering lock of 450. do i change this i both or just ACC
Amazing setup advice, now ffb on my dd2 feels much more detailed and still strong enough. Before i used 100%fanalab ffb, 50% gain. Now I will never touched again ffb settings, thanks Aris :)
@Lio I think he said to go with default settings in the Thrustmaster control panel. He did not say it exactly but the numbers he did say are the same as default. Then go with in game settings he did say.
I tried the recommended settings from fanatec and these settings as well but I still need high caster in order to feel anything. Even with high caster, once the rear goes or the front goes, the wheel does absolutely nothing, you're just a passenger and god help you if you try to catch a slide. People praise this game for allowing them to feel the limit, well maybe there's a combination of wheel profile settings that allows them to, I sure as shit haven't found it
Hi Aris, a shorter video for a change 😜 I'm using the T300 would you suggest using spring and damper on the thrustmaster control panel, secondly is it best to maximise the force in game using gain or via thrustmaster control panel?
Hey, I switched to t300 from g29 few years back and I used to have spring at 100 and damper at 0 , I read somewhere not to use spring either so I keep them at 0 for both and enjoy it better with these settings. As for second q I believe it's better to max out gain on the panel settings and adjust how strong you want the ffb to be within the game.
@@MisTomis that's normally what I do, thought I read somewhere that damper should be on. Could be I've gotten confused with dynamic dampening in game. Thanks
@@MisTomis After a few days of testing I've found that I'm faster using 75,100,100,100,0 in the profiler with 620 rotation instead of 540. I missed the weight transfer of the car when using 0 spring and was loosing the rear. 75 force is recommended for t300 as its generally the most linear. Use in game gain to balance so your just blipping red occasionally, and then 1 or 2% min force. All that said FFB is subjective :D
Unfortunately for the time being, on the consoles you'd need to put manually the steering wheel angle for each car. I apologize for that, we are trying to improve on the console features. TheSimGrid has a nice list you can check to configure your wheel properly, here: coachdaveacademy.com/tutorials/correct-steering-locks-and-ratios-in-acc/
@@ArisDrives Please, don't apologise. ACC is the best sim for console, easily. All your work for our community is also amazing!! I do have the wheel angle changed for each car, and it takes a few minutes to do it. My concern is more regarding Force Feedback and clipping. The new Trueforce technology with ACC is awesome, but if you could test and compare, would be great for us.
I’ve been using the recommended settings for my G25 since getting ACC a few months back, but had a question about the frequency. I set it to 333mhz but recently read through the ACCWiki and it says there that Logitech wheels should be using 111mhz. Would anyone be able to clarify this? Thank you!
Aris.Drives thank you for taking your time to read my comment and reply! You’ve helped me to improve my driving with your detailed explanations. I love the passion you show for the game and motorsports in general in each of your videos! Your “brake coast accelerate” method helped me lower my lap times so much, I can’t thank you enough for this, now each time I jump into the sim I have a goal to work towards and not just driving around pointlessly. Keep it up Aris! 👍🏼
On Xbox one x with G920. Having major issues with center dead zone even with specific steering lock settings per car. Any tips? Please patch! Thank you.
Can anyone feel when the tires break traction? Either locking up or spinning out? Oversteer/understeer? I cant tell if its just me or if the devs didnt put that feedback in the game
Have you been keeping your Fanalab software updated though? I deleted and reinstalled Fanalab recently to update it to Version 2.00.09 which has the auto tuning function. After I did that and ran the CSL DD in compatibility mode I was able to feel the tire related sensations much better
Gain 100%, Min Force 12%, Dyn Damping 30-50% (not less than 30%), Road Effects 20% at max. He explains that these road effects may drown actual FF information from the car physics.
www.acc-wiki.info/wiki/Mods_and_Tweaks#WheelCheck_.2F_LUT_Generator:_FFB_Processing Follow the instructions in this, get wheelcheck, make a LUT file and do what is says. In game you pick gain that you want, as high as you can without clipping, I do 95% on G27. Damping and road effects to 0%. Minimum force to 0% because it's required to make the custom LUT file work. Then put everything in your logitech software at 100% (centering, spring, damping), and set the steering angle depending on which car you'll drive. 488, 720S 480 degrees in logitech software and in game, for 2019 Aston, AMG and Lexus it's 650 degrees, etc. Remember you have to set the logitch settings before you start the game. You can't alt-tab out because that will make your FFB stop working. That will give you the best possible force feedback on the G29. It's absolutely crucial to make a custom LUT file (which compensates your wheels inaccurate FFB and dead zone) and to turn everything other than gain in the game to 0%, because it's just noise, not actual information that you want. Basically, road effects add a constant vibration to your steering wheel. Even when you turn it, you feel that the steering is trying to vibrate and it feels grainy, not smooth and "oily" so to speak. Doing this will take the force feedback in ACC from feeling like an arcade game to a FFB that is on the level with iRacing or even better.
Aris the G29 on PS4 based on my research you can't pass say 70 on GAIN... after 70 you get the deadzone during turning... Everything else you said works perfectly...
Hi Arris, thanks for your hard work to explain theses features. 2 questions: I have tspc wheel and I need to put the dynamic damping at 0, to have the very good (but weak for me) feedback. Some says that dynamic damping is for direct drive wheel? The frequency thing is not clear for me. What do you call lower end wheel? 111, 222, 333: how to choose ? What is the difference. Do you plan to upgrade the ffb ? Ok there is more than 3 questions... Thanks anyway
Aris, io non riesco a far star fermo il mio G920 in rettilineo, devo tenerlo leggermente in curva, altrimenti sbacchetta. Su AC ho risolto nel file .ini con DAMPER GAIN=0, su ACC non funziona :-(
Steering rotation? Do I put that as 900° as thats what the g29 is capable off and the game will automatically adjust soft lock per car or do i need to adjust the degrees for each car I use to get the realistic rotation?
what settings would you recommend in the ThrustMaster control panel for the TMX? I currently have 75% Overall Gain and 100% for the rest of the settings (auto center is by the game).
@@ryanmagid9898 Necro. But there are so many false recommendations for t300 at least. Don't use 100! More linear with 66-75. Run WheelCheck and LUTGenerator. In-game then 100 gain.
So I took your settings for my G29 and went and played and, two weeks later... well, it’s actually pretty good isn’t it. It’s so good I wonder what I was doing before. I suspect... not driving fast enough :D
@Aris are you saying 50% Natural Damper in Fanalab... or 15%? Just curious what you're saying you prefer. Then, 0% Natural Friction and I assume you also have 0% Natural Inertia. Thank you
It's the frequency at which the game sends force inputs to your wheel, i.e. how many times per second. Low end wheels can't update their forces that quickly, so you need to lower the frequency. The frequency should be less than the frequency that your wheel operates at.
use a g29 and drive the aston. Still trying to feel anything. I enjoy ACC but prefer ffb in most other games including AC. My main problem is lack of understeer feeling.
@@kraM1t I'm not sure if this is my G29 only, but I feel like strength settings higher then average lead to significantly distorted signal way before theoretical clipping threshold. If the understeer effect is subtle, you might not feel it. The rule of thumb for me (in any sim) has been to set FFB with absolutely no minimal forces boost (this means huge deadzone, yes) and then set strength so that resistance buildup is progressive from that zero - force deadzone. Avoid a big bump in resistance when turning out of the deadzone. This way I avoid clipping and achieve correct scale of effects. I.E. self aligning torque during a massive slide is higher then force at a soft turnin, and that leads to me reacting proportionally to the signal. With minimal forces boosting all thatcompression completely kills scale of FFB events and with that driver's perception of what's happening
@@kraM1t Thanks for that. I had tried all the settings before but could not feel it. I generated a lut later but had not tried different settings. With the lut and your advice for 0 dampening it is better. For me still not great but better.
@@johnwebb9035 you can try something i use in AC and ACC on g27. In the ff_post_process.ini set TYPE=GAMMA instead of LUT. Feels better imo on logitech wheels.
Anyone else having problems with G29 after the latest update?? It felt good on PS4, now it's really hard and moves too much on straight line. I was using: 100% 12% 46% 16%
If you are referring to ps4...i had to move my gain down to 40-50%. Feels much better on fast sweeping corners and with counter steering now since the update though. I feel like I can attack the corners a bit more aggressively now where as before I had to be super delicate with the turning angle and it was really tricky to react to any small mistakes. Gain 40-50% depending on car Min force 12 Dampening 50 Road effects 0
@@coke970 yeah road effects is personal preference as far as I have found it. I originally had it at 20 and gradually turned it down to 0 and it wasn't very noticeable but I think i prefer it with none.
@@coke970 apparently since the update road effects have been updated so ill do a bit of experimenting again and see if it makes a positive difference or not.
About your question: Gain: 90 - 100 (I use 95) Minimum force: 0 (with lut file) Dynamic damping: 100 Road effects: 5 - 20 (I use 10%) Freq: max value (333 in my case) Steer lock: 900 Steer linearity: 1.00 Brake gamma: 1.00 Gearshift d.: 50ms And most important, due to Logitech dynamic calibration (damm...), set Brake maximum limit > 15 (I use 30%) (on the left column under the brake sub menu). Due to this Logitech bug-feature, during long game session, your brake pedal starts to be ineffective e you need to push more and more, lap by lap. Start a new race or restart assetto corsa don't resolve the problem, you need to disconnect an reconnect the wheel. 'Brake maximum limit' prevent this issue.
@@ArisDrives Ah, makes sense. I did not know that, just thought you were just a really talented driver making racing videos and ACC was your favorite game.
I don't know the value forr the CSL Elite but what drift mode does is it essentially controls the force the steering wheel provides to center itself out again. If you turn your steering wheel left and set drift mode at 0 the wheel stays in its position. On the CSW 2.5 (I'm using drift mode -1) your wheel will slowly center itself out again with little force. The higher lower the number (for the CSW 2.5 -5 is max) the more force is being used to center the wheel out. If you invert those numbers (Drift mode set to +5) the wheel actually accelerates more into the direction you're steering (which is what you want in a drift car to control a slide at maximum angle better). For GT3s or any car designed to GRIP, not to DRIFT you want a force against your steering direcion (centering out). Just test it out with your wheel and look what happens when you turn the wheel. If it centers itself out you're on the right path.
Guys, the drift mode is the amount of friction on the wheel. Negative makes wheel feel heavier, like rubber tyres pushing into the tarmack. A possertive value makes the wheel easier and quicker to turn. Basically helps your steer quicker and makes the steering feel light. The spring setting is what recenters the wheel. The more spring you add, the more force the wheel will use to center itself or (counter steer). Hope this helps.
Watch out though. On some wheels spring 100 gives a constant re aligning force to the center. You don't want that. If you turn your steering wheel and the wheels goes back to the center alone (while stopped), that's not good, turn that back to zero.
DO NOT USE A LUT GENERATOR FOR THRUSTMASTER WHEELS!!!! In AC it absolutely makes the ffb much much worse. logitech and direct drives this is all solid info but on a thrustmaster it's very different, you lose all road feel and gyroscopic force this way, you can steer at 150mph with one finger and the only feedback you get is a series of pulses or thumps, there's no change with speed above the centring you feel at around 20mph~ there's no gradual sensation of traction and there's an ugly notch that develops in the centre of the wheel. grab a T150 all the way up to a TS-PC racer and do some testing if so inclined but I can assure you that the belt drives don't make good bedfellows with LUTs (or more likely, the method used to generate them) at least in stock AC
hi, so can i apply all this to when it comes to console version for console users??...,btw recent update has much improved the driving and handling of the car now :)!...
Doesn't really matter how I setup FFB it feels like driving a brick around the racetrack compared to AC. I figured out what helps with FFB in this game.... alt+F4! Helped a lot at least for me 😢🤷♂️😢🤷♂️
@@arenaissanceishman6689 Lol what the hell does that make iRacing's ffb then? Shits way worse than ACC. I have 700 hours across rF1, rF2 and Automobilista with the same wheel and ACC's ffb is completely fine.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
DD2: 0:13
G29: 1:40
Thrushmuster: 2:50
CSW: 3:15
🍪
Trusty ol' G27 user here: this was a revelation, thank you (my imaginary personal trainer thanks you aswell). Have to do some tweaking because of slight clipping, but overall a big improvement. It gave me the consistency for longer races (changing conditions) i always lacked, and always missed the og AC FFB+ LUT feeling. I always read about "dont use any effects, JUST gain!", to use no min force, "use high frequency" etc. Glad i found out that i need quite the opposite (at least in ACC so it seems). I honestly think there should be some sort of Hint in the Menu for this kind of stuff. Who knows how many people got putt off because of bad settings ? especially "consumerwheel" drivers ?
Keep up the great work, really enjoy ACC lately.
Can you share all of your settings, including Logitech global settings? I'm missing that AC + LUT feeling as well.
Well i use ancient G25 :)
These smaller videos are more objective. I made the change suggested in my G29, with a little less gain (85%), and it was sensational. Thank you very much Aristoteles! Cheers!
Hi Aris! I'm setting up my first sim rig, and you're Sim will be the first I use. Being a mechanical engineer I love how you are so detail oriented with the physics. Can't wait!
Also, another tip I have for people with G27/G29, which helped me a lot, is to set the steering range properly, both in the logitech software and in the game. For example, at first I ran all cars at 900 degree. But then I started using custom values for every car, based on how much ACTUAL steering range cars have. For example, the 488 and 720S have a range of 480-490 degrees, so set that in logitech software, and then set that value in game as well. You get 1:1 ratio of your real wheel turning and the wheel in game turning, which not only looks and feel correct, but it takes away a lot of the deadzone in the middle, it makes the FFB stronger (so you can reduce gain, for example at 900 I had gain at 100% and it still felt weak, at 480 I have gain at 85% and it's strong enough), and it makes you actually turn the steering as much as you would in a real car, so the car drives and feels more natural too. And no, for some reason keeping your wheel at 900 degree but increasing the steering ratio in the setup of a car to make the steering more sensitive doesn't lead to the same effect, still leaves you with deadzone and loose feeling.
Lexus, AMG and 2019 Aston have 640-650 degree range, 2019 Porsche around 800. When I want to drive a certain car, I set the proper value in logitech settings before starting the game. It's more tricky than just picking a car in game and driving, but it leads to a better FFB in my opinion.
Thanks for the discription of your wheelsettings. These are perfekt for the game and let feel so much of the car. How did you get the degree range for the different cars. Do you have a list for the rest of the cars you did not mentioned. Like BMW, Nissan, Labo, Audi, Honda, Bentley,... . That would help me and serveral people.
This is great how did you uptain the info??
This is great. I just got a DD1 and have been wondering how to best set it for ACC, from a reputable source. Thank you!
Hi, i hope you can do a vid comparing it to the rf2 and ams 2 feel.
Just when I thought I had the perfect setup; Aris came along and set me straight with these settings. My DD1 is sliding me through apex’s with ease now. Thanks buddy
Maybe a pedal setup video is next??? Hmmmm....
Keep up the great work
Hi, for CSL ELite is similar?
What about the Thrustmaster TMX Wheel?
So Fanatec recommended settings are pretty spot on ;)
"DO NOT GET CRAZY WITH YOUR FORCE FEEDBACK'" better advice so far by a devlopper i have ever heard
The advice from Aris is usually good and very much appriciated but after driving for a long time i still had almost no feeling of understeer (fast corners maybe feel it,slow none) that i have felt with most other sims and in real life (no i have not driven a real GT3 car). The changes mentioned in previous posts have transformed the sim for me.
Thank you very much. Love your info on this great sim. I am learning so much.
What about CSL Elite?
The Csl elite used the technology from the Club Sport Wheel 2.0 😉
Game settings:
Steer lock - 560
Gain - 70
Min force - 0
Dynamic Damping - 100
Road effects - 0
Wheel settings:
SEN - AUT
FF - 100
SHO - 100
ABS - 100
DRI - -2
FOR - 100
SPR - 100
DPR - 100
FEI - 70
@@karl343 seriously????? And u are fast with this settings???
@@Dani16433 They're pretty much Identical to the recommended settings on the Fanatec forums. The only difference is the steer lock settings. I know the steer lock settings for each car.
@@Dani16433 Each Cars 1:1 wheel rotation settings:
Aston - 650
Audi - 730
Bentley - 650
BMW - 570
Ferrari - 490
Honda - 630
Lambo - 630
Lexus - 650
Mclaren - 490
Merc - 650
Nissan - 650
Porsche - 820
Grazie Ar1s! :) una cosa che ho trovato molto utile è il "FORCE" nel CSW 2.5, ti da la sensazione di sentire +/- la macchina in curva mentre sottosterza.
Il problema è quando aggiornano i driver che , come dici tu, devi rifare tutta la memory del segnale xD.
Ciao francesco mi potresti spiegare come settare al meglio la csw 2.5 purtroppo non capisco l’inglese e non ho capito. Grazie.
@@manuelebetti1789 Ciao Manuele. Guarda io mi imposto ogni singola forza girando. Parti da un 60 di FFB e 70 di dynamic damper. Sul volante metti dri in negativo
a seconda di come te lo senti meglio. FFB ti consiglio di partire tra i 60/80 come anche le altre forze. Damper e Spring non hanno effetto su ACC, dicono
Messa questa base fatti qualche giro e regola ogni forza come più ti piace. Il FORCE regolalo a seconda di come senti la macchina a centro curva, almeno per me ha funzionato.
Cerca di far lavorare la barra dell'FFB verso il centro e poco verso il massimo. E' un po' come regolare un equalizzatore musicale.
Contano molto i driver che usi poi, ti consiglio i 346 per la 2.5. I nuovi non mi hanno dato delle belle sensazioni. 662 di firmware della base, 20 motor, NO 18 o 22. Trovi info qui:
forum.fanatec.com/discussion/1054/fanatec-beta-driver-v346-for-csl-csw-and-podium-bases-all-wheels
Francesco Dondi grazie francesco provo a seguire i tuoi consigli!!!! 👍
Thx Aris, helping me along my adventures in ACC simracing :)
The most important thing to get proper FFB, especially if you use a cheap wheel, is to run a Wheelcheck.exe, test for minimum force, and then make a custom LUT file of the response of your wheel. Then load that LUT file to the ACC config (instruction below) and use it. Damping at 0%, road effects at 0%, minimum damping at 0%. All of that is crap that adds nothing beneficial to the feel, but just saturates you FFB with a bunch of artificial effects. Raw FFB is what you want, because you'll feel the road, the curbs, the turning forces, the centering forces, the understeer, oversteer, etc. more clearly. And still get a proper amount of vibration from actual road surface. Gain at whatever you feel like as long as its not clipping.
A custom LUT file takes away all issues with FFB. Even on crap wheels like my G27, which has a lot of deadzone and flat feeling in the middle, doing a custom LUT file almost totally eliminates that, the FFB feels sharp in the middle, almost no deadzone, and its very smooth and detailed when turning. I can feel exactly how the car loads up in the corners, and I can feel exactly when I'm at peak grip, and when I start understeering. Any setting in ACC itself without custom LUT file feels either too light, or too heavy and flat, lacking detail. Basically impossible to achieve a FFB that's strong enough to feel weighty, but at the same time detail. A custom LUT file changes that. That's because the information the game is sending to the wheel is not being reproduced by the wheel in stock form, since it's not linear...
In fact, you should do this for EVERY sim once you generate the custom LUT file for your wheel, because almost no wheel out there has a linear FFB response, or in other words, it doesn't produce the same amount of force at all steering angles or all rotation rates.
Look it up here: www.acc-wiki.info/wiki/Mods_and_Tweaks#WheelCheck_.2F_LUT_Generator:_FFB_Processing
I tried that custom LUT process several times as written down, but my ffb is totally gone afterwards. I got basically no resistance in my wheel when driving through curves and chicanes, just some spikes when driving over curbs, which feels pretty awkward. Can you tell me where i'm wrong?
CSW 2.5 with Formula V2
All Settings in Driver on default
ACC
FFB : 100% (for testing purposes, otherwise 70%) everything else 0%, Rate 333 Hz.
@@mbm4481 I really don't know what could be wrong, I never experienced any issues like that following that procedure. Try making sure that your files are named correctly, located where they should be, etc. I don't know what could be causing that other than files not loading up properly.
@@derbigpr500 What about in game dynamic damping? You mention damping and minimum damping. Aris recommends 50% dynamic damping on my T300. So my current FFB is
Gain 95%
Min Force 0%
Dynamic Damping 50%
Road Effects 0%
Just added the custom LUT. I guess I can try with 0, 50% dynamic damping and see
Sir, please also give suggestions for vrs dfp pro. Thanks
Yees!!! Now this sim has made sense!!! :)))
By the way I have a question, if I can?
Are slightly different sensations, compared to AC, caused by the tires?
All the best Guys!!!
You are number one for me :)
i have a logitech DFGT and always had the "dynamic damping" on zero, what exactly does it do?
I run with 0 % damping on my CSW 2.5 as well. Gives much more fine detail in FFB.
in Aris' words: Dynamic damping works constantly and becomes even more important as the speed raises. It is a result of the gyroscopic forces from the wheels. It makes the wheel more "unwilling" to move from whatever angle the front wheels point, and the faster you go the more it does so. That's why on some wheels would completely saturate the signal and cause a very flat FFB feelings. Also alienates some people that are used to a completely free rotating FFB wheel (wrongly but hey) because it gives an initial damping force in whatever rotation you force the wheel to go. The dynamic damping slider lets you configure more or less amounts of this force.
@@misterurlauber333 thanks but on ny wheel that effect is very subtle at 100 % DD while at the same time there is a big loss of FFB fidelity. It becomes particularly difficult to feel the point where tyre slip sets in. For me it is a total deal breaker so 0 % DD is the way. My wheel gives sufficent friction feel at 40-50 % gain already, so no need for more weight.
@@andersrasmussen3942 I have it on 100 on my Fanatec CSL and it's good.
@@misterurlauber333 you should give it a go for like 4-5 laps with 0 % DD and push the car a bit in the corners. Where you really feel the difference is at the point where the front wheels break traction and the wheel goes light. By pushing the car like this I think you will find it is easier to find the limit of your traction and also prevent spins ☺ try and revert to 100 % DD in the same session and test the same.
@Aris I still don't get the advice to go to 100 % Dynamic Damping. On my Fanatec CSW 2.5 that totally kills FFB fidelity and especially the feeling of tyre slip disappears. I run with 0 % damping which feels fantastic (FEI = 50 on wheel). 50 % gain, 0 % min. force, 30 % road effects, 333 Hz. What is the 100 % damping improving?
Hi m8, I've just ordered myself the CSW 2.5 with formula v2 rim, I've upgraded from a T300RS, is it much better than that, and how do you find your wheel?
@@Cagefighter I switched from a G25 (gear driven), so big improvement for me. Much more smooth, strong and well defined FFB. But requires a bit of tuning of the wheel base settings (FEI is very important). Your old t300rs is belt driven like CSW 2.5 so probably also smooth. But it will be a big jump up in quality feel still.
Especially the build quality of the actual rim is awesome. I have the F1 eSports wheel which is quite similar in quality to that you have ordered. You should really look forward to it :) Expensive as h*** but really nice equipment.
@Anders I totally agree. Once I turned the Dynamic damping OFF in game my steering wheel finally felt alive. With the standard setting of 100% my wheel was dead, especially through long corners. Using the CSL elite PS4 edition. I also have damping on the wheel set to 0. I find that it just adds unnecessary weight and kills the fidelity and tyre feel.
@@andersrasmussen3942 yeah I know, the rim cost me £360 £30 more than a T300RS 😆
I probably cant post links here so on ACC forums under "ACC Physics" subforum there is topic "Dynamic Damper - Details" on first page. In there Aris explains damping setting in more detail
I've just started playing asseto corsa compitizone on a g920; when the car is not moving I get a really bad shake in the steering wheel, just vibrates like crazy. as soon as Im rolling the shake is gone. Does anyone else have this problem? is there a fix to this? doesn't happen in any other racing game I play just asseto corsa competizone
This happens to me in project cars 2 I think it's just the wheel itself
Could someone explain something to me. I come from real life karting, something which is extremely physical and lots of chassis and steering feedback. Strong enough to fracture your ribs.
I have recently bought a DD1 wheel and noticed an odd trend online. People are turning road feedback to zero and dampening all the way to 100!
Why would you get these high end ultra reactive wheels only to completely deaden the FFB experience? It makes absolutely no sense.
100% agree with you on this one! It's like they love driving around using sloppy, loose and lifeless reacting wheels. These settings are unrealistic. Shouldn't come down to "magic" between your brain and the physics.. The whole point surely is to react to the output, and the physical sensations the direct drive wheels send. Not this rubbish about training your brain to think what you think you feel.
wicked video.
damping is a new setting compared to dynamic what should i set this to for g29? also what if I want a steering lock of 450. do i change this i both or just ACC
Amazing setup advice, now ffb on my dd2 feels much more detailed and still strong enough. Before i used 100%fanalab ffb, 50% gain. Now I will never touched again ffb settings, thanks Aris :)
I have osw, and from granitedevices they recommend the motor strength to 100%, and from the game to your liking.
What settings should i use in the Thrustmaster Control Panel(Software on PC) for the T300RS GT Edition?
Same here
@Lio
I think he said to go with default settings in the Thrustmaster control panel. He did not say it exactly but the numbers he did say are the same as default.
Then go with in game settings he did say.
@@larryfoster423 Thanks
in thrustmaster control panel set gain at 100 and adjust ingame.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a TS PC racer? Just moved from the T300 and the same settings don't feel right.
I tried the recommended settings from fanatec and these settings as well but I still need high caster in order to feel anything. Even with high caster, once the rear goes or the front goes, the wheel does absolutely nothing, you're just a passenger and god help you if you try to catch a slide. People praise this game for allowing them to feel the limit, well maybe there's a combination of wheel profile settings that allows them to, I sure as shit haven't found it
hi, whats about settings in thrustmaster control panel?
Hi Aris, a shorter video for a change 😜 I'm using the T300 would you suggest using spring and damper on the thrustmaster control panel, secondly is it best to maximise the force in game using gain or via thrustmaster control panel?
Hey, I switched to t300 from g29 few years back and I used to have spring at 100 and damper at 0 , I read somewhere not to use spring either so I keep them at 0 for both and enjoy it better with these settings. As for second q I believe it's better to max out gain on the panel settings and adjust how strong you want the ffb to be within the game.
@@MisTomis that's normally what I do, thought I read somewhere that damper should be on. Could be I've gotten confused with dynamic dampening in game. Thanks
@@MisTomis 100% correct!
@@MisTomis After a few days of testing I've found that I'm faster using 75,100,100,100,0 in the profiler with 620 rotation instead of 540. I missed the weight transfer of the car when using 0 spring and was loosing the rear. 75 force is recommended for t300 as its generally the most linear. Use in game gain to balance so your just blipping red occasionally, and then 1 or 2% min force. All that said FFB is subjective :D
@@nakamuza2206 It Is useful to change wheel rotation in the thrustmaster app? Doesn't the game change it automatically to be 1:1?
sorry aris, what about the csl elite?!? dinamic damping, gain and drf on wheel?!?
They say to run DD on 100 but i advice 0.
Feels much better.
Is it wise to use 1080 lock on all wheels and cars?
Would this settings change much for G923 and console?
Unfortunately for the time being, on the consoles you'd need to put manually the steering wheel angle for each car. I apologize for that, we are trying to improve on the console features.
TheSimGrid has a nice list you can check to configure your wheel properly, here: coachdaveacademy.com/tutorials/correct-steering-locks-and-ratios-in-acc/
@@ArisDrives Please, don't apologise. ACC is the best sim for console, easily. All your work for our community is also amazing!!
I do have the wheel angle changed for each car, and it takes a few minutes to do it.
My concern is more regarding Force Feedback and clipping. The new Trueforce technology with ACC is awesome, but if you could test and compare, would be great for us.
I’ve been using the recommended settings for my G25 since getting ACC a few months back, but had a question about the frequency. I set it to 333mhz but recently read through the ACCWiki and it says there that Logitech wheels should be using 111mhz. Would anyone be able to clarify this? Thank you!
Nah, I would go with 333hz
Aris.Drives thank you for taking your time to read my comment and reply! You’ve helped me to improve my driving with your detailed explanations. I love the passion you show for the game and motorsports in general in each of your videos! Your “brake coast accelerate” method helped me lower my lap times so much, I can’t thank you enough for this, now each time I jump into the sim I have a goal to work towards and not just driving around pointlessly. Keep it up Aris! 👍🏼
On Xbox one x with G920. Having major issues with center dead zone even with specific steering lock settings per car. Any tips? Please patch! Thank you.
Can anyone feel when the tires break traction? Either locking up or spinning out? Oversteer/understeer? I cant tell if its just me or if the devs didnt put that feedback in the game
Have you been keeping your Fanalab software updated though? I deleted and reinstalled Fanalab recently to update it to Version 2.00.09 which has the auto tuning function. After I did that and ran the CSL DD in compatibility mode I was able to feel the tire related sensations much better
and what about .lut file? because it's working same as in AC
thank you, this helped me a lot.
Please! I need the setting for the G29 wheel
Have you watched the video?
@@Maartwo yeah but I don't understand very well the English
See the video from 1:45 minute
Gain 100%, Min Force 12%, Dyn Damping 30-50% (not less than 30%), Road Effects 20% at max. He explains that these road effects may drown actual FF information from the car physics.
www.acc-wiki.info/wiki/Mods_and_Tweaks#WheelCheck_.2F_LUT_Generator:_FFB_Processing
Follow the instructions in this, get wheelcheck, make a LUT file and do what is says.
In game you pick gain that you want, as high as you can without clipping, I do 95% on G27.
Damping and road effects to 0%. Minimum force to 0% because it's required to make the custom LUT file work.
Then put everything in your logitech software at 100% (centering, spring, damping), and set the steering angle depending on which car you'll drive. 488, 720S 480 degrees in logitech software and in game, for 2019 Aston, AMG and Lexus it's 650 degrees, etc. Remember you have to set the logitch settings before you start the game. You can't alt-tab out because that will make your FFB stop working.
That will give you the best possible force feedback on the G29. It's absolutely crucial to make a custom LUT file (which compensates your wheels inaccurate FFB and dead zone) and to turn everything other than gain in the game to 0%, because it's just noise, not actual information that you want. Basically, road effects add a constant vibration to your steering wheel. Even when you turn it, you feel that the steering is trying to vibrate and it feels grainy, not smooth and "oily" so to speak.
Doing this will take the force feedback in ACC from feeling like an arcade game to a FFB that is on the level with iRacing or even better.
For controller?
What are the suggested Frequency settings for G29 or comparable wheels?
I tried all configs in my T300 and i can't find a proper FFB...
Cause it is shit🙊
Aris the G29 on PS4 based on my research you can't pass say 70 on GAIN... after 70 you get the deadzone during turning...
Everything else you said works perfectly...
Is this still relevant for DD2?
Can apply that to ps4 version? Rotation degree should always be the maximum?
no csl elite?
FFB for g920 on Xbox is still so messed up. Feel like I’ve wasted my money unfortunately
If you turn the FFB down it’s not as bad, I have mine between 50-60 and it’s not jerking the wheel alll over the place
Any chance that the force feedback on xbox with a dd1 will be fixed anytime soon?
Hi Arris, thanks for your hard work to explain theses features.
2 questions:
I have tspc wheel and I need to put the dynamic damping at 0, to have the very good (but weak for me) feedback. Some says that dynamic damping is for direct drive wheel?
The frequency thing is not clear for me. What do you call lower end wheel? 111, 222, 333: how to choose ? What is the difference.
Do you plan to upgrade the ffb ?
Ok there is more than 3 questions...
Thanks anyway
Aris, io non riesco a far star fermo il mio G920 in rettilineo, devo tenerlo leggermente in curva, altrimenti sbacchetta. Su AC ho risolto nel file .ini con DAMPER GAIN=0, su ACC non funziona :-(
Very helpful thank you!!
I have osw, and from granitedevices they recommend the motor strength to 100%, and from the game to your liking.
do you recommend otherwise?
Steering rotation? Do I put that as 900° as thats what the g29 is capable off and the game will automatically adjust soft lock per car or do i need to adjust the degrees for each car I use to get the realistic rotation?
you have to adjust steer lock for each car or group of cars as some of them have same steer degrees
No. Just stick it at 900 to match the actual wheel and it’s fine for all cars
You lost me at 50% NDP on a DD2!? That sounds absolutely crazy.
Agree. I'm using 10. Inertia 7
Ffb 100 on wheel and 35 dd2 feels perfect
I’ve just realised I’ve had my ndpr at 0 for some reason, I’ve just set it to default 50 and now it feels amazing
Hey folks! I have a Simagic M10 DD
Had anyone figured out good settings for this? (Both Racemanager & ingame)
use better Lut your DD wheel is not strong!
@@AL.farmlife You break your hands, you are not smart enough to comment ....
hello Aris do you use the linear mod on the DD2? thanks to you for this great work
on fanatec wheel base
what settings would you recommend in the ThrustMaster control panel for the TMX? I currently have 75% Overall Gain and 100% for the rest of the settings (auto center is by the game).
In control panel, set gain to 100, constant and periodic to 100. Set damper and spring to 0. Set recenter spring to by the game.
In ACC settings, i use 70% gain, 100% dynamic damping, 12% min force and 10% road effects
Also make sure you use wheelcheck and lut generator to use a custom lut file in acc
@@ryanmagid9898 Necro. But there are so many false recommendations for t300 at least. Don't use 100! More linear with 66-75. Run WheelCheck and LUTGenerator. In-game then 100 gain.
After custom Lut don't use Minimum force! It totally screws the Lut. 100 gain, 0 min force, 80-100 dynamic d., 1-5% Road E.
So I took your settings for my G29 and went and played and, two weeks later... well, it’s actually pretty good isn’t it. It’s so good I wonder what I was doing before. I suspect... not driving fast enough :D
What NIN do you use on the DD2?
@Aris are you saying 50% Natural Damper in Fanalab... or 15%? Just curious what you're saying you prefer. Then, 0% Natural Friction and I assume you also have 0% Natural Inertia. Thank you
50%
What's the meaning of frequency?
It's the frequency at which the game sends force inputs to your wheel, i.e. how many times per second. Low end wheels can't update their forces that quickly, so you need to lower the frequency. The frequency should be less than the frequency that your wheel operates at.
good afternoon, I have a question? how much wheel rotation do you use for playing ACC?
use a g29 and drive the aston. Still trying to feel anything. I enjoy ACC but prefer ffb in most other games including AC. My main problem is lack of understeer feeling.
Turn dynamic dampening to 0%, G29 isn't really good enough to make use of it
@@kraM1t I'm not sure if this is my G29 only, but I feel like strength settings higher then average lead to significantly distorted signal way before theoretical clipping threshold. If the understeer effect is subtle, you might not feel it.
The rule of thumb for me (in any sim) has been to set FFB with absolutely no minimal forces boost (this means huge deadzone, yes) and then set strength so that resistance buildup is progressive from that zero - force deadzone. Avoid a big bump in resistance when turning out of the deadzone. This way I avoid clipping and achieve correct scale of effects. I.E. self aligning torque during a massive slide is higher then force at a soft turnin, and that leads to me reacting proportionally to the signal. With minimal forces boosting all thatcompression completely kills scale of FFB events and with that driver's perception of what's happening
You can find a solid LUT for the G29 on the steam Forums
@@kraM1t Thanks for that. I had tried all the settings before but could not feel it. I generated a lut later but had not tried different settings. With the lut and your advice for 0 dampening it is better. For me still not great but better.
@@johnwebb9035 you can try something i use in AC and ACC on g27. In the ff_post_process.ini set TYPE=GAMMA instead of LUT. Feels better imo on logitech wheels.
Anyone else having problems with G29 after the latest update?? It felt good on PS4, now it's really hard and moves too much on straight line.
I was using:
100%
12%
46%
16%
@Aris.Drives could you recommend new values for G29 after this weeks' update? Wheel doesn't feel good at all. Thank you so much
If you are referring to ps4...i had to move my gain down to 40-50%. Feels much better on fast sweeping corners and with counter steering now since the update though. I feel like I can attack the corners a bit more aggressively now where as before I had to be super delicate with the turning angle and it was really tricky to react to any small mistakes.
Gain 40-50% depending on car
Min force 12
Dampening 50
Road effects 0
@@camerongeraghty4709 yeah, I am using 40 G. 12 MF. 38 DD and 15 RE.
I don't think I would like 0 road effects so I am going to stick with this
@@coke970 yeah road effects is personal preference as far as I have found it. I originally had it at 20 and gradually turned it down to 0 and it wasn't very noticeable but I think i prefer it with none.
@@coke970 apparently since the update road effects have been updated so ill do a bit of experimenting again and see if it makes a positive difference or not.
Ciao Aris, do you suggest the same settings even using a .lut configuration file for a G29?
I would also like to know an answer for this same question.
@@ezanchi5422 I'm currently working on a program to improve some wheels like the G29... I'll let you know!
github.com/Luke460/wheel-check-data-aggregator
Let me know what do you think about it. I hope that may help you!
About your question:
Gain: 90 - 100 (I use 95)
Minimum force: 0 (with lut file)
Dynamic damping: 100
Road effects: 5 - 20 (I use 10%)
Freq: max value (333 in my case)
Steer lock: 900
Steer linearity: 1.00
Brake gamma: 1.00
Gearshift d.: 50ms
And most important, due to Logitech dynamic calibration (damm...), set Brake maximum limit > 15 (I use 30%) (on the left column under the brake sub menu).
Due to this Logitech bug-feature, during long game session, your brake pedal starts to be ineffective e you need to push more and more, lap by lap. Start a new race or restart assetto corsa don't resolve the problem, you need to disconnect an reconnect the wheel. 'Brake maximum limit' prevent this issue.
You got one of these videos for project cars 2? Or are you exclusively Assetto Corsa
I’m a developer of KUNOS, so sorry but I don’t do different titles.
@@ArisDrives Ah, makes sense. I did not know that, just thought you were just a really talented driver making racing videos and ACC was your favorite game.
For the same developer content as Aris for PC2 go to Yorkie065 channel he has a very comprehensive guide to PC2 everything you will ever need to Know.
@@ArisDrives could you recommend new values for G29 after this weeks' update? Wheel doesn't feel good at all. Thank you so much
CSL Elite the same as CSW? I have drift at -2.. 😬 or is it negative on the elite?
I don't know the value forr the CSL Elite but what drift mode does is it essentially controls the force the steering wheel provides to center itself out again. If you turn your steering wheel left and set drift mode at 0 the wheel stays in its position. On the CSW 2.5 (I'm using drift mode -1) your wheel will slowly center itself out again with little force. The higher lower the number (for the CSW 2.5 -5 is max) the more force is being used to center the wheel out. If you invert those numbers (Drift mode set to +5) the wheel actually accelerates more into the direction you're steering (which is what you want in a drift car to control a slide at maximum angle better). For GT3s or any car designed to GRIP, not to DRIFT you want a force against your steering direcion (centering out). Just test it out with your wheel and look what happens when you turn the wheel. If it centers itself out you're on the right path.
@@julianbeck2408 what I thought, strange that aris gives a +2 value for the csw. I think -2 sounds about right in that case
@@daviddanser8011 Well he suggests a negative value for the CSW v2.5 (which I use) and apositive value for the CSW v2.0
@@julianbeck2408 ok tnx for the info
Guys, the drift mode is the amount of friction on the wheel. Negative makes wheel feel heavier, like rubber tyres pushing into the tarmack. A possertive value makes the wheel easier and quicker to turn. Basically helps your steer quicker and makes the steering feel light.
The spring setting is what recenters the wheel.
The more spring you add, the more force the wheel will use to center itself or (counter steer). Hope this helps.
I use CSL elite, have over 200 hours in ACC and this game by far has the worst FFB compared to other sims I play (good old AC, rF2, AMS2).
Thanks!
damn great explanation!!
Spring 100 huh. I'll try, I saw a few popular RUclipsrs say spring completely off.
Watch out though. On some wheels spring 100 gives a constant re aligning force to the center. You don't want that. If you turn your steering wheel and the wheels goes back to the center alone (while stopped), that's not good, turn that back to zero.
DO NOT USE A LUT GENERATOR FOR THRUSTMASTER WHEELS!!!!
In AC it absolutely makes the ffb much much worse.
logitech and direct drives this is all solid info but on a thrustmaster it's very different, you lose all road feel and gyroscopic force this way, you can steer at 150mph with one finger and the only feedback you get is a series of pulses or thumps, there's no change with speed above the centring you feel at around 20mph~ there's no gradual sensation of traction and there's an ugly notch that develops in the centre of the wheel.
grab a T150 all the way up to a TS-PC racer and do some testing if so inclined but I can assure you that the belt drives don't make good bedfellows with LUTs (or more likely, the method used to generate them) at least in stock AC
Is this 15 or 50 for natural damper?
hi, so can i apply all this to when it comes to console version for console users??...,btw recent update has much improved the driving and handling of the car now :)!...
the ffb feels boring with my DD2
I think all bad drivers on acc should just get a Mario kart wheel and I only drive around spa and monza
FFB in ACC sucks so bad.
Doesn't really matter how I setup FFB it feels like driving a brick around the racetrack compared to AC. I figured out what helps with FFB in this game.... alt+F4! Helped a lot at least for me 😢🤷♂️😢🤷♂️
People who need help to set FFB settings... Good grief! Nothing could be easier.
Woah chill, some of us are still noobs
This game has ffb? Huh news to me, can’t feel anything 💩 💩 💩
try a wheel instead of your keyboard!
If you want to hate on the game at least choose something worthy of criticism. Nice try though buddy
delrdiego lol wut, it’s no secret that acc ffb is complete shit
@@arenaissanceishman6689 Lol what the hell does that make iRacing's ffb then? Shits way worse than ACC. I have 700 hours across rF1, rF2 and Automobilista with the same wheel and ACC's ffb is completely fine.
delrdiego complete opposite for me I only have acc and iRacing. IRacing’s ffb is night and day better imo. Lots of other people agree, most people.
Thanks for the super advise.
Thanks !