Can I Fix this ABANDONED ATV for LESS than $100??
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- Опубликовано: 30 авг 2023
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Today we bring an abandoned Yamaha Blaster back to life!
TOOLS USED:
Shake n Break: amzn.to/3RaDVjk
Flywheel Puller: amzn.to/3R6BJJN
Hand Impact: amzn.to/3R6BRcf
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Ya know ya know ya know ya know
Hey JKD can you do a Yamaha raptor 660?
Good to see it un-blow’d up brother💪
I was thinking of you on that thumbnail 😂😂
Great job.
u mentioned the amount of play in the output shaft i believe... as "future problems" could this be the problem? doesnt the ignition run off the output shaft?
@@dmayse1000 no, it runs directly off the crank.
Frauds
I am the least mechanically inclined out of my three brothers. You have taught me more than they have in the few months I've subscribed to your channel. Thank you bro!
Good shit dude!
I grew up in the same boat. Your family looks at you crazy when you suggest fixing your own car yourself.
That's an ignition issue. I've had 5 blasters in my time, that's not a fuel issue. The stock pipe was great, the stock carb was perfect, and they actually ran REALLY well once you deleted the fuel/oil mixer. That one is losing spark under load or the ports are so bad on the cylinder it's cutting out under extreme load. I still say it's coil/wire/plug issue. Those bikes are AMAZING for their size and with a little work they can make really good power. You're making me want another one..
Crank seals, had metal in it, seals are first thing to get damaged I’d be willing to bet money on it
could it be that the loose crank bearings (we saw the play when he reassembled the engine) mess with the spark timing? given enough play in the bearings id bet the timing would be all over. if it was a points system it would probs dont even spark at all, had that with a 78 Suzuki GT50...
@@Handyman1199 The Blasters engine is literally the staple of slapped together and make it run. The ignition assembly, which you didn't get to see much of the electronics, you can see the stators on the table @13:31. Most likely there's a problem with those coming in contact with metal, the pickup being bad, or even the CDI being bad. The crank bearings? Well they'll fail before those stators will lose enough ability to bring a charge to the CDI where it won't fire. Remember, those little 200's only have a somewhere in the 6:1 compression ratio, a very small chamber and it doesn't take much to fire. I've seen them run on 24:1 shit fuel and 50:1 race mix. The 200 Blaster is probably one of the simplest engines out there and they'll run with just about anything wrong aside from major failures. If it was my bike, I'd flop the CDI first, then the pickup, and then the stator assembly. I've NEVER seen a stator assembly die/fail but the possibility is there.
I was suspect of CDI or trigger coil as well
@@JunkyardDigs Most likely it's the CDI, probably got wet sometime and they weren't known for being well sealed. Eventually corroded and this is what you're left with. If you want to preserve it a bit, buy yourself a thick balloon and use that as a cover, that's what we used to do with them when we'd be out in the wet and snow.
Could be the cheap coil breaking down after warm up and higher revs
or possibly a broke ignition wire somewhere
I need more junkyard digs right now man. You are the absolute greatest!!!!!
I agree
I'm with this guy!!!
Welcome to the team, we all need more JYD ❤❤
I'm with THIS GUY!!!!!! WE ALL need MOAR JYD!!!!!!!!!
Honestly JYD makes my days better. I feel like when a new one comes out its something to look forward too.@@Bimmerguy88
First 2 stroke quad was a Polaris 250 TrailBoss. Lots of great memories with that machine including burning hundreds of gallons of dads gas and as much cheap TCW-3 as he would keep on the shelf lol. Now 20+ years later I’m that dad buying my son a 250 TrailBlazer, blowing it up from a failed oil pump and learning how to rebuild it. Genuine Chinesium piston to the rescue!
Can not wait to see you and PBG hang out again. Those videos are amazing.
Maybe he could sway Kevin to the fabulousness of JAAAAG ownership
Dalton and Kevin are those two kids in school who were never allowed to sit next to each other 😂
Definitely go through the ignition system. Timing is everything on a 2-stroke, plus any Chinese parts probably won't give a decent spark.
Failing that, double check for air leaks and reed valve sealing (fiber reeds are good with an after-market exhaust)
You should really do these smaller type engine rebuilds! super fun to watch.
keep up the great work man.
Seeing your troubleshooting process, even without regard to the specific engine/vehicle (though that's awesome in its own way for anyone who has the same issue) is invaluable because the viewer learns how to attack a problem and solve it systematically. It's so easy to get overwhelmed and say "f**k it!! - these videos help cut through that noise and static of frustration. Much appreciated, SPC Brown!
Good to hear that the Bonneville is getting the business, its going to be awesome. Also this small engine content is always a great change of pace. I always wanted a Banshee, Raptor, or a Blaster unfortunately it just wasn't in the cards.
I respect the right to privacy and would never come to your shop but do you and Mook ever do any local meet and greets like octemberfest...big fan of your content and have fun watching older videos as we all wait for your new content. Keep it up Kevin you have made it entertaining and very informative. Ty
I liked your revival, it shows you what can be done with just a few tools. Also, your experience pays off as well. Hey, it's wheels, you can't beat that.
I love the variety of content.. do more small engines please.. You are always great to watch.
One thing I suggest is you get one of the cheap central pneumatic air chisels from harbor freight for when you're using a Shake N Break, the knob on the bottom for adjusting the power of the chisel is usually pretty annoying, but for a Shake N Break it's really nice for being able to set your max power and go. The air chisels that have the variable trigger (at least in my opinion) aren't as good for it.
Before the snow flies you should do a fleet update video, ride around the yard and the shop and tell us what's around.
Agreed, that's a LOT of cars in that video. Makes you wonder whether he's fixing them just to abandon them again... so he can fix them again?
@@rockboundwealthmanagement4465 Doesn't it get to a point where it's just too many?
i really liked the 2 stroke street bike you did and the snowmobile stuff so if you randomly inject videos like this into your schedule i'll probably watch them. this market isn't anywhere near as saturated as the car revivals and a lot more achievable at home by the diy guy from a financial standpoint.
i'm also really enjoying your (from a long time viewer) newfound appreciation for old gm land barges.
edit: can't spell
Those hand impact screwdrivers are awesome for getting the phillips screws out of brake discs
Back in the 1980s I used to work as a motorcycle electrician and if I remember correctly, those bikes have a CDI ignition system with a separate high voltage ignition winding in the alternator that charges a capacitor, that's then discharged into the ignition coil. Quite often ignition problems like those your having are caused by a bad alternator stator winding where the insulation is starting to break down at high rpm. However as you say the ignition coil has been replaced with some sort of after market part, I would try changing that first as if it's not the correct type meant for a CDI system, that would also cause problems. Also the ignition coil is a lot easier and cheaper to swap out than the stator winding. Good luck with fixing it as it looks like a fun bike.
Spot on, except there's no alternator. The CDI box could be sus though, no doubt. Should be plenty of aftermarket replacements. :)
Another great video. The sound of a 2-stroke reminds me of a 1975 Kawasaki 400 two- stroke triple that I used to own equipped with chambers. From idle up to around 2500rpm it was sort of doggie. Then between 2500rpm and 3500rpm it would kinda wake up. From 3500rpm to the red line that bike turned into a rocket. What I really remember was the change in the exhaust tone as it went up the rpm range. It went from popping corn to an angry shriek. A well tuned 2-stroke with an expansion chamber is music to my ears.🏍
Again it’s the best when junkyard digs posts 😊
I was thinking: I need to go watch a four wheeler revival and as soon as I opened my laptop, I see that junkyard digs has posted another banger so of course, I click on it. Keep up the good work Kevin
My family purchased a Yamaha Timberwolf brand new in 1999, it is absolutely the highest quality mechanical item I have ever had the pleasure to work on. Every screw, every piece of hardware, just feels like quality and fits perfectly. The only serious issue has been a very warn out Mikuni carburetor.
Always happy to see a junkyard digs vid to come out
Its always a good day when JD uploads
Correction, att. New viewers , there is no normal content on this channel. Lol.
Actually, JYD. Is a well-educated and talented mechanic with a wicked sense of humor. Hang on and watch. Central California watching
Man, a 99 Blaster was my first ATV. $500 in like 2015 got me a 99 Blaster, with a title. I knew nothing when I bought it, but as I came to learn it was a fully built race bike. Big bore kit, bigger carb jetted amazingly, full exhaust kit, full race plastics, etc. if there was a performance part made for a blaster, this thing had it. Ran amazing too, my 230lbs fatass could pin it while cruising in 4th gear and it would pull the front wheels up. I raced a friend who had a new Raptor 700 and we were neck and neck. Good times, good times.
Those blasters are a blast to ride. Love your content!
I guess that's why they call them blasters😂
@@copperhead6132 totally 🤣
Just as I'm about to go to bed I see a Junkyard Digs notification 😂.
Blaster top-end ting could be a whole new percussive element in a sample kit for budding producers
Oh god... The Right Stuff on the case halves!!!! Getting that thing back apart to fix that sloppy clutch is going to be FUN!!!.
Really need a tube of Yamabond5 for those cases (and you'll fall in love with it for car stuff too). Along with Yamabond4 for the 'normal' stuff.
Also, speaking as an ex-Yamaha service manager, you might have figured out on Blasters, be VERY VERY carefull putting the screw-on top of the carb. They're easy to crossthread, then leak air afterwards. That alone is the main reason I had to rebuild blown up Blasters back in the day. Sucks raw air and melts the piston.
Second only to the guys that would jet spray the engine and blow the base gasket into the crankcase.
Oh, and if you ever decide to build it right, don't go with Wiseco. Get a factory Yamaha cast piston and rings. On those engines, the stock 'junk' just flat out works better.
Also, you can tell if any parts are OEM Yamaha for a Blaster if they have a ''2XJ'' casting or marking on the parts. 2XJ is the prefix code for the first Blaster in '88
Thankfully the RTV was on the other side of the case 🤘
@@JunkyardDigs And thankfully Blasters don't have oil pumps. The Right Stuff worms are no joke!! lol
@@JunkyardDigs The electrical switch on the carb is safety shit (that will get on your nerves). It had nothing to do with your ignition timing. It will kill your spark if the safety crap thinks your thumb throttle is closed and the carb is open.
The logic is to kill the ignition if you let off the gas and the carb hangs open.
You know because a 2stroke makes sooooo much torque and you'll hit a tree at 200MPH, AND we're all too stupid to just pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch. :D
Feel free to jump out all the switches of safety to avoid troubleshooting drama in the future. (I can't recall 100% if they're N.O. or N.C.)
I had one as a kid. Blew it up and learned how to rebuild it myself. Good times 🍻
I have 2 blaster just like yours. One just rebuilt, the other waiting on parts. Finicky yes, but fun as hell to ride once you get it right. pt 2 on this thing would be sweet.
So far I’ve been watching you for a month and so far I haven’t seen you fix anything right. Anyone can make things run but it takes a real mechanic to do it correctly.
I love waking up to a junkyard digs video.....keep doing what ya doing brother. Much love from the uk 🇬🇧
Interesting to learn that your first vehicle revival was a second gen Ranger. So was mine. 1997 Single cab Flare side 2.3L 5 speed. Love those little trucks.
I had a lowered '98 with a 2.5 and 5spd. 233K and wore out completely. Had no power and everything past the spark plug holes looked horrible.
But it somehow got 30+MPG while being drove like I stole it (to keep up with traffic) on a trip.
It also had basically no compression left but it never smoked or used any fluids.
I had two different Rangers in my life. The first one was a green and gold 1985 2wd with a 2.0 four and a 5 speed. That one I blew its engine twice. The second one was a 1991 Ranger Splash edition with the 2.9 V6 and a five speed. It was also 4 wheel drive. I could go up to areas where my uncle couldn't go with his larger F250. Was handy going to fix fences in our pastures.
@@carlbernard4197 I wish the engine wasn't so wore out and gutless in my old one. 4WD and/or at least stock height would've been preferred too.
@@jamesstoy8967 my 97' is at a 3/5 drop right now and yeah mines slow as hell too. Have to rev it out to 4k just to keep up. Had an 03' fx4 as my first car and the 4.0 exploded as they tend to do.
@@carlbernard4197 exactly what they're for, little runaround do it all pickups. Great farm beaters.
thanks for uploading another great video! Keep up the awesome job guys!
What a great episode. You're my favorite car channel. I'd love to learn how you became such a good mechanic. It's nice to see someone who doesn't cut corners for likes. Please tell me that Mustang II outside the shop is in the future. Keep up the excellent content!
Hey Kevin, you should fix that purple Ranger you drove in highschool out of some junk or something. I think it'd be neat for a nostalgia trip of some sort from you.
Love you all I am a big fan of the channel I love your sense of humor and the van™ can't wait for next weeks vid.
I always enjoy your videos they are very educational and I am impressed at how easy it was to get the 4 wheeler to run.
I can always learn new things
Worked at the local Honda dealer right after graduating high school. Had a lot of two strokes come in that had been brought in that had been pretty butchered by people who thought they knew what they were doing. On several occasions the bike or wheelers had been gotten to run after several years of sitting somewhere. 9 times out of 10 the seals in the crankcase had dried up and crumbled leading to a vacuum leak at the crank seal. Usually not a big deal at lower rpm but when the engine gets up on the pipe that lean condition burns the top out of the piston. If the piston top isn’t burned out first the rings are the other culprit for a top end coming apart. The extreme heat from running lean kills ring tension as well as the lean condition causing scoring in the cylinder from lack of lubrication ( lean condition on two strokes also means less oil mix from the fuel to lubricate everything ). Another common problem was with ignition, people would grab any plug that would thread in the head without hitting the dome of the piston. Commonly they had grabbed an automotive plug for a newer vehicle which are resistor type spark plugs so that they don’t cause interference with cars computer systems or static in the radio, great for a car but not a high rpm bike engine.
Get yourself a good plug boot and correct spark plug to begin with. Check the air gap between your flywheel and the stator as well, also another source of weak ignition. You’re absolutely right about the junk Chinese coils as well. After that, start checking grounding and continuity in the wiring. Probably not much help to you here Kevin but maybe it was worth it to give you an idea of another place to look for the problem. Good luck with it and great video again, glad to see it.
Another great video, would love to see you explain the carbs. You are great at explaining that kind of stuff in detail and making it understandable.
Love it good to see things get a new life
Love your content! Keep up the great work!
Is there a new snow mobile challenge this year by chance. I really enjoyed watching that and you are the grand marshal when keeping the challenge going strong.
the first thing I think of when I heard you say you are going to Minnesota is "Kevin, Dalton, and maybe Angus... oh that's gonna be good :) "
If it’s Still cutting out you should check the packing in the silencer if it was running rich before the engine blew it could be clogged up restricting the exhaust flow
The exhaust is not plugged, it wouldn't run at all if it was.
@@JoeRocket-sf6qs I didn’t say it was completely clogged but it does restrict if it has any built up to struggle oil trust me I used to race motocross in New England
Don't think that's the issue, but still not a bad thing to check.
I love the videos, I wish you could put out more, keep up the great work!!!!
@41:58 "Ernest Goes to Camp" (1987) When Ernest's golf cart starts moving on its own and it shows up periodically throughout the film driving by its self.
I would love more revivals on 90,s cars as those are more available in my area. Would love to learn more. Hard for me to find a channel about working on cars that isn’t dry and boring.
Kevin, did I miss something or @36:43 when you put the seat back on after cleaning the filter, you forgot to put the filter back on?
I was wondering about that too. Running no filter on that is a _big_ no-no!
All he needs to do is degrease and clean it, then re-oil it and he'll be set as far as that goes.
I’d replace the crank seals. Will cause weird lean issues. A failing stator can definitely cause your issues too
He needs to do a leak down test.. That'll confirm bad seals or not.
He said he had em out to clean the cases so I wonder if he put new ones in or out the old ones in
@@callumdonington2227I know he took the flywheel side apart, but I don't think he took the driven side apart. I'd have taken it apart and cleaned the case where the crank runs, flushed the metal out of the bearing and changed the crank seal
Cut out under load usually means coil fault. Fun video to watch. Haven't played on 2 stroke stuff in quite some time.
Back in the "day" I used to be able to buy a wiseco piston, ring set, and rod for 100-150 bucks. I was buying blown up blasters out of the newspaper for under 500 bucks. Rebuild them, clean em up, and flip them for 1000-1200. I also did other 4 wheelers that usually needed minor repairs.
I did this until I had enough cash to go buy a brand new 400EX in 2001.
Kevin another completed project. 2 strokes are hard to get right. But, it’s not bad either. Thank you for sharing!
💯👍👊
Proper coil, new plug and plug wire will most likely fix it.
A new coil should come with the wire & boot already on it. Slap a new NGK BR8ES plug in there and see what happens. ;)
I have to say I have watched almost all your videos. I've been watching you since you first started posting them... and it was nice to see you do a quad... keep the great content coming and Have a great weekend!!
There's your problem lady 😂😂 the air filter looks like a chocolate Cake 🎂 lmfao 😂 36:29 @Junkyard Digs
The air filter being greasy is probably air filter oil spray on to help catch smaller dust n crap but if your riding with others n your n the back of the pack u & the air filter r going to catch a lot of dust
No, it's just filthy dirty, neglected and needs cleaned asap.. I wouldn't run it with or without that filter as-is. If he just sprays it down with Degreaser l, wash it out real good, then re-oil it, it should be good as new.
I think you should check the crank seals.
yalls kitchen with all the oak is absolutely adorable!
11:09 this is s very good example/explanation of how a clutch works i kinda undestood but anything i didint u cleared up thx for that
Looks like I’m not sleeping for 40 minutes
Good job, and cool of you to offer it back to the guy. Really interested in seeing how to do small engine tuning done properly. I can usually get there in the end, but I'm moslt guessing! If you can do it using the Keihin carbs found on little Hondas (like the ones you showed when you did the voiceover) that would be awesome too! Thanks!
Gotta love when your looking. For somthing to watch and get the notification junkyard digs post
Junkyard digs is the best. Are you thinking of fully restoring any of your cars?
Thanks for the change up on content. Makes me me want to fix a YFZ450 that I lean locked in the shop about 10 years ago.
Finally, a new video 😂 I've been waiting just for a new video because I already watch old content of yours on repeat🤣
So good to see some 2 smoke content Kevin !! Just a quick one, I did notice you didnt mention heat cycling the motor to run it in at all ...
I need more junkyard digs right now man. You are the absolute greatest
That 80 you were talking about probably has a wiseco pro-lite piston in it. Those pistons get hot fast, faster than the cylinder sleeve so if you dont let it warm up for a while it expands and locks itself up in the sleeve. Thats what it sounds like to me is your problem. People that dont know much about them usually buy them not knowing its a process to get it to work right and then wonder why it locks up so much. I rode 2 strokes for a while and i stayed away from the pro-lite, i got the wiseco woodsport or something. Its a little heavier to keep momentum for low end grunt.
the clutch basket is toast. All those grooves are the reason why they were stuck.
You saying you didn't want to seal the crankcase up & then find you left something out reminded me of my time working on motorcycles, and how shortly after I was hired another mechanic had a Honda 1-lunger completely apart when he quit and a different guy reassembled it...except for a thrust washer on the countershaft he found when he picked up his tools. Oh, the language!🤣
I had already developed a habit from working on my own stuff that EVERY part from inside the case was placed in order of disassembly into one of my 'egg boxes' -(a 'tool' I'd bought to do my own stuff - stacking numbered divided compartment trays in box metal boxes with latching tops)
and as parts were later inspected after cleaning or replaced, they went back into the same place in the 'egg box' - and sequentially re-installed during the rebuild, so I only had to go pocket by pocket during reassembly, any part that did not fit in the pockets would be tagged with a numbered plastic tag (I got the tags and tabs at an office supply before I bought the 'egg box') and placed in the bottom drawer of the box, and the like-numbered plastic tab put in the pocket where it went in the sequence.
As 'drawer parts' got installed I would pull the tab from the pocket, put with tag from part, and put both back in the long end pocket of lowest tray in order ready for next use.
I could put masking tape on the trays to identify outside of case parts -vs- inside of case parts, so could tell at a glance at the 'inside case' tray and be certain I would not wind up like that guy struggling to invent new curse words for having to tear one partially or completely down and put an errant piece in - basically for free- as most shops paid a flat rate, and the more I produced with no re-do's the more I earned.
Last place I was at was in 1971 I think, and only building the 750 K-3's as I had zero redo's except occasional part failures -(the shop 'ate' those).
I WOULD do a single or twin if a guy was buried or having a bad day, and sign it off to them so they got paid for it, but a redo would have been mine. The guy freaking out that day made a DEEP impression, but having to often wait a week or more to get time to get back to a project of mine, (even though my memory is very good) let me rest easy about stopping and resuming right where I had left off, ALL of it learned from an older automotive machinist friend that had once even been a Cord automobile factory/dealer mechanic that helped me do my first couple of case splits, which prior had kept me from repairing those project bikes.👍🇺🇸😎
Getting flashbacks to 1984 and my Motoski Futura 440 and the piston skirts grenading at 70 mph down mainstreet Moosonee. That was the most critical damage my 16 year old eyes had ever seen.
Some of the old bikes had a pre filter in the petcock that clogs up like a champ. 👍
Cool to finally see some quad content, race quad or bike next?
I would love to hear that 2 stroke engine being completely happy one day. keep up the good work
Pro tip, Kevin: Old school desert racers know that if you have long sections of wide open throttle on your two stroke, what you can do is hit the kill switch for two to three seconds - while holding the throttle wide open - to cool the cylinder and prevent a hot seize. Do that about every 20 seconds or so and your cylinder/piston should remain happy. Also, two strokes aren't nearly as finicky as what you believe if you're using quality parts. NGK spark plugs are super reliable. Happy riding!
NGK BR8ES.. that's the plug he needs. ;-)
Or jet accordingly. Also use b8eg plug
Love to see another old Sled Challenge this winter.
This was a super-satisfying rehab. Thank you!
I had an '89 Yamaha Blaster in the early 90s. It was a fun rig, but it wasn't exactly blindingly fast as my cousin could effortlessly pass me on his Honda 250R quad in 2nd gear (so he CLAIMED) while I was maxed out on the Blaster. Maintenance? Had to change out the fouled plug every so often and NGKs weren't cheap back then either...
I hope you can eventually have a blast with the blaster
The mention of the oil you put in the gearbox reminded me of a mistake I made back in the 80's with one of my first motorcycles. Seemed a new product called "Slik 50" was out, and the guy at the parts shop said "Oh yeah, this is great stuff, put it in your motorcycle" I was young and dumb, and within a few hours of use, that wet clutch was slipping like a dying automatic trans. I ended up having to pull the side cover and slosh all the clutch bitsa in gasoline to get the PTFE and whatever other stuff off them. Refilled with some straight grade Kendall, and it was (almost) back to normal.
Lesson learned.
Man, this dropped at 11 pm where I'm at, just got up at 4 for work, gonna play this in the background today
I immediately stop what I'm doing and grab a beer when you post ❤❤
Junkyard digs and pole barn garage = fucking good time
The huge thing that has the electric connector is for if the throttle sticks. It is called the tors system. There is a cheap delete kit you could buy. Blasters are great fun. Keep wrentching enjoy your vids!
Throttle OverRide System. Ugh.. What a PITA they can be. It's common to delete them, along with the auto oil injection system & just premix your gas.
Loved this one! I enjoy watching you fix your shit while I don't have the energy to fix mine lol
if a 2-stroke has fast speed problems, turn the high mix up until it intermittently 4-strokes. The richer mix and extra stroke will help lube the cylinder and cool the combustion chamber.
Always learnin' something from you! 👍 great video!
Its really cool of you to offer to sell it back to that guy.
if this becomes a series, please do a 30 over bore out, it makes them soooooo much better.
That bonneville series is going to be sweet! 🤘🤘
I’m a newer sub (found from Mooks videos) and didn’t know you did any small engine stuff. Love this content!!!
I had a 200 Blaster as a teenager, I jumped the shit out of that thing. It was so much fun!
I had a blaster that was missing like this at high rpms, it was a stator issue. It was not hitting every revolution for some reason. If you have another to swap it out with it may be worth trying.
Ive got that same top end kit in my blaster. The main failure is the wrist pin needle bearing. If you can get a oem/high end bearing they run good. Mines on 30+ hours already and it was rebuilt 3 weeks ago. I beat the piss out of it. Run it richer then you would a oem cylinder. Plugs are cheaper then pistons. Needle positon at 3. 1-2 turns air mixtures. 40:1
I have had a similar issue with my 125cc Honda clone engine cutting out at a certain rpm. It was the crankshaft sensor in my case, ran fine after replacement.