Hey I haven’t done too many pour in place walls but here a tip a few buddies told me! The way you ran your forms horizontally is beautiful but it would of been better to some forms vertically first then put your horz. Over and out your ties in the first 3 feet 12”o.c then like 3-6 feet 16”o.c and 6-etc feet 24” that I actually learned from a book but hey if your way worked. Fine by me ! That’s what people told me !
The way we do it in Canada we put two by fours 24 inches on Center vertically then we run our Whalers horizontally at one foot 3 ft 5 ft and 7 ft. The tires are placed 2 ft apart this gives a much straighter wall
I see concrete busting that particle board, how did it go for you? Also see you didn't use any long tail snap ties or form liners. Let's see the finished product? Not hating, at least you are trying something. Curious how it turned out. You should have also staggered the 2x4s to lock the sheets across the seems instead of butting them at the seems... That will separate in my experience as a carpenter. Concrete is heavy and doesn't have forgiveness when it goes. Hope you poured slow. Best of luck 🤞
You can see my other videos to see how it turned out. Didn't have any blowouts. I should've used some long ties as you say. I ended up just screwing a vertical on every 4 feet. I did also stagger the 2x4s to lock them together. Good ideas.
@@rollingoakhome2381 nudura is 5.50$ a square foot of wall. Doesn’t seem like you are saving much money to me but I am sure you are if you considered it.
@@wcbscout Id have to agree. Labor and the cost of the plywood to do the old school way didnt make sense for me. I went to ICF on all the walls I do myself.
Rule of thumb is first 1/3 of total height ties go every 1 foot then every 2 foot rest of way to top. 2 foot horizontal is a standard for button ties. Each row the whalers should break at different places.if 16 foot sart one at 8 foot the other at 16 foot. Osb is not a good choice for form work. It will come apart and leave some in the concrete and in general not as strong as regular plywood not to mention form ply. A few things that might help you down the road. You can use John clamps with only 1 whaler to help with cost. The height thing really isn't important until you get above 8 foot, unless you fill it up and then stick a vibrator in it.
Good tips. I didn't have any experience so I just went with the recommended spacing which was 16" all the way up. I get the potential problems with OSB however I had very little chips in my concrete when I pulled off the forms and very little breakage. I should be able to use 95% of the OSB in my subfloor. I was also surprised that form removal was very easy. The concrete didn't grab the OSB like I was afraid of. The OSB did begin to bow after the first and second pour so I don't think you could keep reusing the same sheets indefinitely. Plywood would definitely be a better choice if you intend to reuse your forms for many pours.
I don’t see any toe ties to footer you either shoot 2x to footer and screw bottom form to that both sides or there’s clips you can shoot down with a slot on each side and a screw hold the most pressure is bottom and ties +12” not enough and doesn’t prevent lifting
Particle Board and OSB are two different materials OSB has been tread to repel water during construction materials exposed to weather, has a limited time, but is total fine for concrete forms, particle board is a compose wood and resins to build furniture like cabinets.
The way you make the formwork for construction is quite good. The way we do it is different. Can you show me the finished product?
@@PhanVuongDesign please see other videos
That better be more than 1/2 inch osb! We in the old days used one inch thick plywood! The other concern is lifting!
I spent years working that system. If you have access to a forklift or excavator, you can gang the set up and after initial set things go much faster.
How do you mean?
@@FourthWayRanch that's a half day job at most for 2 men
You butted your wailers end to end? NO stagger the joints for straighter walls
Hey I haven’t done too many pour in place walls but here a tip a few buddies told me! The way you ran your forms horizontally is beautiful but it would of been better to some forms vertically first then put your horz. Over and out your ties in the first 3 feet 12”o.c then like 3-6 feet 16”o.c and 6-etc feet 24” that I actually learned from a book but hey if your way worked. Fine by me ! That’s what people told me !
What’s the book called ?
Long end ties 5/8 form board vertical studs horizontal whalers, ties 12" bottom run, 24 the rest. And dont drive the wedges down to the flat
agree
Beautiful good
0:19 yes they are much faster. It would take one day to put them all up. Even a project that big.
The way we do it in Canada we put two by fours 24 inches on Center vertically then we run our Whalers horizontally at one foot 3 ft 5 ft and 7 ft. The tires are placed 2 ft apart this gives a much straighter wall
I see concrete busting that particle board, how did it go for you? Also see you didn't use any long tail snap ties or form liners. Let's see the finished product? Not hating, at least you are trying something. Curious how it turned out. You should have also staggered the 2x4s to lock the sheets across the seems instead of butting them at the seems... That will separate in my experience as a carpenter. Concrete is heavy and doesn't have forgiveness when it goes. Hope you poured slow. Best of luck 🤞
You can see my other videos to see how it turned out. Didn't have any blowouts. I should've used some long ties as you say. I ended up just screwing a vertical on every 4 feet. I did also stagger the 2x4s to lock them together. Good ideas.
Man, ICF would be amazing in this instance. Have you considered it?
I wanted to do icf but it didn't make sense financially. Too expensive. Wouldve been much easier though.
@@rollingoakhome2381 nudura is 5.50$ a square foot of wall. Doesn’t seem like you are saving much money to me but I am sure you are if you considered it.
@@wcbscout Id have to agree. Labor and the cost of the plywood to do the old school way didnt make sense for me. I went to ICF on all the walls I do myself.
Rule of thumb is first 1/3 of total height ties go every 1 foot then every 2 foot rest of way to top. 2 foot horizontal is a standard for button ties. Each row the whalers should break at different places.if 16 foot sart one at 8 foot the other at 16 foot. Osb is not a good choice for form work. It will come apart and leave some in the concrete and in general not as strong as regular plywood not to mention form ply. A few things that might help you down the road. You can use John clamps with only 1 whaler to help with cost. The height thing really isn't important until you get above 8 foot, unless you fill it up and then stick a vibrator in it.
Good tips. I didn't have any experience so I just went with the recommended spacing which was 16" all the way up. I get the potential problems with OSB however I had very little chips in my concrete when I pulled off the forms and very little breakage. I should be able to use 95% of the OSB in my subfloor. I was also surprised that form removal was very easy. The concrete didn't grab the OSB like I was afraid of. The OSB did begin to bow after the first and second pour so I don't think you could keep reusing the same sheets indefinitely. Plywood would definitely be a better choice if you intend to reuse your forms for many pours.
I don’t see any toe ties to footer you either shoot 2x to footer and screw bottom form to that both sides or there’s clips you can shoot down with a slot on each side and a screw hold the most pressure is bottom and ties +12” not enough and doesn’t prevent lifting
Did you oil the plywood before you put it up?
@@FourthWayRanch I did not. They came off fine.
@rollingoakhome2381 good, I wanted to use the wood for other things. Some people say you need oil, guess not
Don't see any strongbacks in that wall
Partical board. Ouch, better hope it doesn't get wet.
Particle Board and OSB are two different materials OSB has been tread to repel water during construction materials exposed to weather, has a limited time, but is total fine for concrete forms, particle board is a compose wood and resins to build furniture like cabinets.
I see serious issues!
lol
You should always stagger the end joints. This is wrong the way it is shown and very weak at these points.