Hello mate. You can also see Taxas Filipino he is also builing a house like this methode. Its cool to follow both channels and get some info. I learn a lot from both
Have enjoyed watching your videos. Watching your videos gave me insight as to how to form my own privacy / garden wall (39’Lx8’Hx10”W) using 3x4” lumber supports, and HDO plywood sheets. The only difference being that I didn’t use any wall ties👌 …scrapped them after doing tons of research, and finally muscling up the nerve to risk forming my wall without using them. Poured the wall 5 days ago, and aside from a few minor scares…though the lateral pressure caused the forms to bulge some, we had zero blowouts!😅 I am planning to remove the forms tomorrow / Wednesday (EST)👍👍 Thanks again for the amazing content - not sure if I would’ve taken this project on by myself had I not stumbled upon your videos - first class content👌 Be well🙏
A lot of waste and not very efficient materual use... Without a crane, NOE aluminium formwork types are ideal. A lot of his formwork is none-reusable, very expensive. And his work platforms are totally unsafe.
We actually have next to no waste, I use my timber about 40 times per use, my plywood I use once for walls and I then keep it for cutting up for stairs or I sell it to guys who use it many times on non finished faces. We used a crane on this very job. And my work platforms are perfectly legal where we are, the only time it isn’t I am the only one using it. In my videos you are seeing work in progress so if you see a platform which is incomplete but not in use maybe it’s just incomplete. I have over 100k of layher scaffolding and if you know anything about scaffold, it is the best you can buy. I also used to own aluminium formwork. It is unsuitable for bespoke work that we do and we have to customise the whole build process to suit the aesthetics of the off-form look requested. Your aluminium panels require the Conc to be covered which is very un economical and a further waste of materials.
Freaking beautiful fella. Be proud!!! I'm about to start a formwork carpentry course uk London. I'm a carpenter as is but companies want the paper. Really looking forward to it and seeing work like this gives me high hopes for the future. Thank you.
we could never do that with the irregular lumber sizes around here without a day or2 to prep such wood and put it as a form work equaly.... love your stuff u guys kick lots of ass
I love ❤️ concrete because is for ever and you don't have for repairs thing over and over life is short u have better thing for life it smart to do it with concrete u made paid more at first but in long time paid less
I don’t know what the cost is per m2 for stud and plasterboard. If you provide that I can help. However I’m going to build my own house and it is cheaper and quicker for me to do concrete walls…
good question. sealer is applied after to weatherproof. Sometimes xypex added to conc to make waterproof. no insulation. sometimes foam is put inside the concrete wall.
How long do you leave the forms on before you remove it? And can you make a video on how to to put in electrical pipes and boxes before you pour concrete..
walls 1-3 days. suspended slabs 7 days. sorry mate, we don't do the electrical work. all it is is a plastic box nailed to the formwork and a conduit coming from it
Amazing videos, really interesting and informative. Please keep up the great work! What is the sheet material that you use for the formwork itself to get that smooth finish?
No it is not energy efficient. I have only ever built one with insulation here. Usually there is none. I’m currently building my house and I am putting in insulation in my concrete walls so I’m currently learning all about it. I’m not 100% why no one insulates here, I think there are 2 main reasons, cost and our building code doesn’t enforce it… yet. Our climate is pretty mild though and no insulation and high thermal mass can actually work in your favour for some placements. Ie a sun facing wall in winter with no insulation will stay warm for hours.
Ute master. NZ company with a factory in Melbourne I believe. I'm really happy with mine. Great service too, I snapped my key and lost my spares, I had new keys within 2 days of contacting them. And I'm in Perth.
No document. Experience. Suspended slabs however must be signed off by an engineer on all commercial projects. Not yet on residential. You can space further than I did in this video. Spacings are much closer only to achieve neat patterns with the sheets for aesthetics.
How do you usually handle more than one cast? Would you recommend overlap of formwork of about 600mm-800mm if there is more than one cast done for the building?
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 if you needed to cast a 12 meter wall in two pours, what advice would you give? Would you recommend using a water stopper at the construction joint, and would you overlap the formwork over the existing wall that has already been constructed?
Great video! I've been looking for ideas to help inform a DIY project I've been noodling with. The goal is to build the walls of my family's home using precast or off form wall sections( plain outer face and board form interior fac), then piecing them together with rebar via cylindrical spaces cast into the formwork... Do you have any ideas or advice on such an undertaking?
Great videos! Thanks a lot. I'm playing with an idea of self-building fairly simple house out of concrete by utilizing lightweight formwork eg.Doka (as I'm not a builder). Do you think it would be possible to achieve nice concrete wall finish and quality out of the forms without hand building the formwork ? Thanks
No, not possible. It is also not possible without many years experience. I see experienced guys mess it up. If you use doka, it needs to be the look you're going for and well planned out. I once saw a guy doing his own house and he staggered peri panels (like doka) to acheive a brick pattern. It looked cool from a distance but it had so many things wrong. But he loved it. To minimise the difficulty don't go to high(hydraulic pressure) and limit how many corners. Straight walls are easiest.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 Well I didn't want to hear that lol ... ! Thanks for your opinion, I'm sure you know what you talking about! I might give it a try anyway however I will do some some various sample walls where the out-of-form finish wont be too critical. And perhaps I will hire professional like you to do the complex, visually critical parts. I've seen those Peri forms - not bad and yes the lining of fake bricks is not nice ) Few questions regrading to your video - did you use any release oils on your forms ? - can you re-use the form sheets after stripping ? Or they finish too bad ? Thanks aging for doing these videos for us ! great job
Hi Coudu, the guy didn't use fake brick lining, he laid the formwork in a pattern like bricks. I have been using release oils a bit lately and I notice no difference in the finish or ease of stripping with new ply. With older ply it makes a small difference. in my 16 years I had never used it till last year. I personally think it is a waste of time except on stairs maybe and keeping things clean, but it stinks and make you less clean so I see no benifit. On a wall like this I would never use used ply. Even if you pour 1 side and flip ply over for next pour I wouldn't do it for walls like this. I chopped all this ply up on my next job for stairs and tiny walls.
Love your work mate! We also living here in Perth. Going to build our new house in Churchlands. Double storey with around 380m2 of living space. How much more in cost would a concrete house build comparing to a conventional brick house? Also which builder do you work with? :)
Hi Ken, We work with many builders so i can recommend someone to suit your build if I know a bit more about it. A concrete house as a guess would be 3 times more expensive maybe more? It also won't insulate as well or withstand moisture as well. There is a reason everyone uses brick! Its the best way. You can still acheive with concrete but price goes up even more.
Not sure. We just build it, we don't design it but apparently they are using a sealer which will fully protect it from moisture... I wouldn't trust it. As for the insulation properties, I live in a 1920's house which has a timber stud wall with zero insulation. we have a mild climate. Moisture would be my main concern but I am not up to date with sealer technologies.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 Thanks for your reply and I appreciate your videos, love your work. I'm wanting to learn and understand more of this building concept. Are you contracted out to builders or are you a builder yourself?
no problem! I do maybe 30% of my work for builders, 50% for other formwork companies and 20% for concrete companies. A good spread of clients. what Is it that you do?
I used to have a particular sheet I used, but now with covid I take what is available and hope for the best! I like 1800x1200's. But I'm super keen to try using 3600x1200 sheets on one of these off-form jobs.
nope. I used to buy the PNG made ply. but now I just tell big river I want a mid priced sheet that is going to give a clean off-form finish and they always select the right ones for me. I don't find the super expensive sheets to be any better personally. And I cut my ply up pretty quick so de-laminating ply isn't too much of an issue.
For the absolute best advise you should contact a local window company. They will tell you exactly what you need to do with your openings so they stay sealed!
I used to have a larger team with up to 8 guys doing suspended slabs but I did not enjoy it anymore. I now like to work on my own or with just 1 or 2 guys. I call on help when I need it. I don't understand the imma framer/stripper safety officer bit?? Favourite part is complex set-outs. Using maths and brain to find simple solutions.
Not a fan of how you're using that square for your holes. There's nothing actually square happening there - you're just eyeballing it, and that's not going to be accurate.
Try it. It’s actually very hard not to get it perfect. You can also use stair gauges on your square as stops for more speed and accuracy. You have to have your square quite a long way out of square for your measurements to be out
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 You would actually be much more accurate by making a mark with a punch (or a pencil) at the inside corner of the square (with your measurements adjusted accordingly), then putting the drill bit in the mark made by the punch. By putting your marking tool tight against the inside corner you eliminate any eyeballing or guesswork and get much more repeatable hole positioning.
I’m not sure that is true, I mean there aren’t many concrete homes anywhere. Here it is a novelty to have concrete, it’s something that not many others have which is what makes it interesting. It can be insulated, you just put insulation in side it. We have done it before and it then has quite good insulation properties.
How in the world is tik tok getting millions of views, and this barely ten k. There must be millions who are to freakin lazy to get a proper job, sadly.
I think I would be more concerned if billions of people were watching formwork videos haha. But yes no one wants to do manual work, good for us who do though as the massive labour shortages provide us better rates.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 with the amount of need for houses in the Netherlands, mainly because of “labour”, “illegal”migration I’ll have work forever, and surprisingly there no hands available.
Goodness I've been looking for something like this. I've subscribed. Please keep these videos coming.
I have 5 or 6 parts coming from these walls
Hello mate. You can also see Taxas Filipino he is also builing a house like this methode. Its cool to follow both channels and get some info. I learn a lot from both
That’s awesome. Concrete is the way to go since they r fire proof. N it’s cheaper n it’s environment friendly meaning less chopped trees.
I always thought it wasn’t environmentally friendly at all. But I really don’t know, I might try do some research
Have enjoyed watching your videos.
Watching your videos gave me insight as to how to form my own privacy / garden wall (39’Lx8’Hx10”W) using 3x4” lumber supports, and HDO plywood sheets.
The only difference being that I didn’t use any wall ties👌 …scrapped them after doing tons of research, and finally muscling up the nerve to risk forming my wall without using them.
Poured the wall 5 days ago, and aside from a few minor scares…though the lateral pressure caused the forms to bulge some, we had zero blowouts!😅
I am planning to remove the forms tomorrow / Wednesday (EST)👍👍
Thanks again for the amazing content - not sure if I would’ve taken this project on by myself had I not stumbled upon your videos - first class content👌
Be well🙏
Find me on instagram BMFormwork and msg me some pics
Really gorgeous work!
Thanks Peter
Amazing i had done like that job in Melbourne and Sydney a lot
Good job bro keep posting
thankyou
Great workmanship
Thx
Awesome work guys, thanks for sharing, it's great to see good workmanship, well done, can't wait to see the next video.
Cheers 👍
Thanks for watching
Beautiful work. great attention to detail. an architect's dream :)
A lot of waste and not very efficient materual use...
Without a crane, NOE aluminium formwork types are ideal. A lot of his formwork is none-reusable, very expensive. And his work platforms are totally unsafe.
Thanks
We actually have next to no waste, I use my timber about 40 times per use, my plywood I use once for walls and I then keep it for cutting up for stairs or I sell it to guys who use it many times on non finished faces. We used a crane on this very job. And my work platforms are perfectly legal where we are, the only time it isn’t I am the only one using it. In my videos you are seeing work in progress so if you see a platform which is incomplete but not in use maybe it’s just incomplete. I have over 100k of layher scaffolding and if you know anything about scaffold, it is the best you can buy. I also used to own aluminium formwork. It is unsuitable for bespoke work that we do and we have to customise the whole build process to suit the aesthetics of the off-form look requested. Your aluminium panels require the Conc to be covered which is very un economical and a further waste of materials.
got to love the kookaburras in the background... so Australian (apart from his accent!)
I think they're magpies mostly
Freaking beautiful fella. Be proud!!!
I'm about to start a formwork carpentry course uk London. I'm a carpenter as is but companies want the paper. Really looking forward to it and seeing work like this gives me high hopes for the future. Thank you.
good luck smoke dog! head down bum up.
we could never do that with the irregular lumber sizes around here without a day or2 to prep such wood and put it as a form work equaly.... love your stuff u guys kick lots of ass
Thankyou vender
Me too. thank you !!!
👍
Good job
Ta
Awesome man!
Thankyou
so beautiful, could tell me what the board material is?
Ply with a phenolic resin coating
I love the finished look. Ballpark how much more / less would this be compared with concrete blocks of same strength and finished plaster?
I have no idea, sorry. I’m pretty sure this would be much more expensive
I love ❤️ concrete because is for ever and you don't have for repairs thing over and over life is short u have better thing for life it smart to do it with concrete u made paid more at first but in long time paid less
I never really thought of that but you would be correct. It does weather quite badly if you don’t keen it sealed
nice work
Thankyou
Do you have a video of how yall put up the rebar
Yes but it is very basic. Much better vids out there
You're some man for 1 man. Anymore lads id say they would be slowing you down ha.
Slow and steady wins the race in feature concrete work.
I have a house coning up where I need to do some of this, inspired by Tadao Ando - Thanks for sharing!
no worries!
Please tell me about how can get perfect side corner in coulumn
Get it ultra tight. Small stone. Wet mix of conc
How does the cost compare to conventional stud and plasterboard walls? Where would you find specs for these walls for residential use?
I don’t know what the cost is per m2 for stud and plasterboard. If you provide that I can help. However I’m going to build my own house and it is cheaper and quicker for me to do concrete walls…
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 How can I get in touch with you to learn more about your services?
Great work
How does the wall get weatherproof ? And how does it get insulated.
good question. sealer is applied after to weatherproof. Sometimes xypex added to conc to make waterproof. no insulation. sometimes foam is put inside the concrete wall.
Do y'all also do the rooftop out of concrete ?
and if not, can you ?
Yep done a few. Waterproofing is a bit scary though. Concrete cracks so it’s not great for roofs
Good works!)
Thanks
How long do you leave the forms on before you remove it? And can you make a video on how to to put in electrical pipes and boxes before you pour concrete..
walls 1-3 days. suspended slabs 7 days. sorry mate, we don't do the electrical work. all it is is a plastic box nailed to the formwork and a conduit coming from it
mate any reason why you don't get it precast? then just transport and install you'll be done quicker!?
Pre-cast panels to fit on a truck wouldn’t be very big. You would have a lot of ugly joints.
Amazing videos, really interesting and informative. Please keep up the great work! What is the sheet material that you use for the formwork itself to get that smooth finish?
Plywood
Great video, What size LVL's are you using?
97x47 and 97x67mm
Is this energy efficient? looks like no thermal insulation.
No it is not energy efficient. I have only ever built one with insulation here. Usually there is none. I’m currently building my house and I am putting in insulation in my concrete walls so I’m currently learning all about it. I’m not 100% why no one insulates here, I think there are 2 main reasons, cost and our building code doesn’t enforce it… yet. Our climate is pretty mild though and no insulation and high thermal mass can actually work in your favour for some placements. Ie a sun facing wall in winter with no insulation will stay warm for hours.
Hey mate whats the lid and ladder rack on the triton
Ute master. NZ company with a factory in Melbourne I believe. I'm really happy with mine. Great service too, I snapped my key and lost my spares, I had new keys within 2 days of contacting them. And I'm in Perth.
What are the black sheets? Melamine?
No, form ply
Awesome finish. Is there a document that specifies the soldier whaler spacing for Aus ? Or is it engineers spec or other ?
No document. Experience. Suspended slabs however must be signed off by an engineer on all commercial projects. Not yet on residential. You can space further than I did in this video. Spacings are much closer only to achieve neat patterns with the sheets for aesthetics.
What is the mixture ratio bro
My favourite is 40mpa, 10mm stone and 90-110 slump
How do you usually handle more than one cast?
Would you recommend overlap of formwork of about 600mm-800mm if there is more than one cast done for the building?
I'm not 100% on what you’re asking
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 if you needed to cast a 12 meter wall in two pours, what advice would you give? Would you recommend using a water stopper at the construction joint, and would you overlap the formwork over the existing wall that has already been constructed?
How do you stop water moving through the walls?
I think I explain it in one of my videos. But when you grout up the holes they seal up thanks to the shape of the conduit and cones.
Great video! I've been looking for ideas to help inform a DIY project I've been noodling with. The goal is to build the walls of my family's home using precast or off form wall sections( plain outer face and board form interior fac), then piecing them together with rebar via cylindrical spaces cast into the formwork... Do you have any ideas or advice on such an undertaking?
We do this sometimes for movement joints.
Great videos! Thanks a lot.
I'm playing with an idea of self-building fairly simple house out of concrete by utilizing lightweight formwork eg.Doka (as I'm not a builder). Do you think it would be possible to achieve nice concrete wall finish and quality out of the forms without hand building the formwork ?
Thanks
No, not possible. It is also not possible without many years experience. I see experienced guys mess it up. If you use doka, it needs to be the look you're going for and well planned out. I once saw a guy doing his own house and he staggered peri panels (like doka) to acheive a brick pattern. It looked cool from a distance but it had so many things wrong. But he loved it. To minimise the difficulty don't go to high(hydraulic pressure) and limit how many corners. Straight walls are easiest.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 Well I didn't want to hear that lol ... ! Thanks for your opinion, I'm sure you know what you talking about! I might give it a try anyway however I will do some some various sample walls where the out-of-form finish wont be too critical. And perhaps I will hire professional like you to do the complex, visually critical parts. I've seen those Peri forms - not bad and yes the lining of fake bricks is not nice )
Few questions regrading to your video
- did you use any release oils on your forms ?
- can you re-use the form sheets after stripping ? Or they finish too bad ?
Thanks aging for doing these videos for us ! great job
Hi Coudu, the guy didn't use fake brick lining, he laid the formwork in a pattern like bricks. I have been using release oils a bit lately and I notice no difference in the finish or ease of stripping with new ply. With older ply it makes a small difference. in my 16 years I had never used it till last year. I personally think it is a waste of time except on stairs maybe and keeping things clean, but it stinks and make you less clean so I see no benifit. On a wall like this I would never use used ply. Even if you pour 1 side and flip ply over for next pour I wouldn't do it for walls like this. I chopped all this ply up on my next job for stairs and tiny walls.
Can it possibly be higher ?
Yes, check out my latest video. We build walls much higher
Love your work mate! We also living here in Perth. Going to build our new house in Churchlands. Double storey with around 380m2 of living space. How much more in cost would a concrete house build comparing to a conventional brick house? Also which builder do you work with? :)
Hi Ken,
We work with many builders so i can recommend someone to suit your build if I know a bit more about it. A concrete house as a guess would be 3 times more expensive maybe more? It also won't insulate as well or withstand moisture as well. There is a reason everyone uses brick! Its the best way. You can still acheive with concrete but price goes up even more.
What type of concrete mixture are you using?
Changes depending on the job
What are your thoughts in terms of moisture and heating on the outer concrete slab effects inside the house?
Not sure. We just build it, we don't design it but apparently they are using a sealer which will fully protect it from moisture... I wouldn't trust it. As for the insulation properties, I live in a 1920's house which has a timber stud wall with zero insulation. we have a mild climate. Moisture would be my main concern but I am not up to date with sealer technologies.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 Thanks for your reply and I appreciate your videos, love your work. I'm wanting to learn and understand more of this building concept. Are you contracted out to builders or are you a builder yourself?
no problem! I do maybe 30% of my work for builders, 50% for other formwork companies and 20% for concrete companies. A good spread of clients. what Is it that you do?
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 I'm looking to build with this concept, just looking more into it. Do you have business email or website for contact?
yeah mate, benmillican87@gmail.com. I can also put you in touch with some builders who like some concrete in their designs.
If I may ask, what is your go to for formply sheets?
I used to have a particular sheet I used, but now with covid I take what is available and hope for the best! I like 1800x1200's. But I'm super keen to try using 3600x1200 sheets on one of these off-form jobs.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 Thanks, and any preferred brand?
nope. I used to buy the PNG made ply. but now I just tell big river I want a mid priced sheet that is going to give a clean off-form finish and they always select the right ones for me. I don't find the super expensive sheets to be any better personally. And I cut my ply up pretty quick so de-laminating ply isn't too much of an issue.
How about windows and doors I'm going to build my house my self lol 😆 I kno the real basics but unsure on windows and doors
For the absolute best advise you should contact a local window company. They will tell you exactly what you need to do with your openings so they stay sealed!
Could anyone pls explain, How to hide the coverblocks on exposed concrete slab? 😊
Cover blocks? The concrete chairs?
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 concrete coverblocks used to get the clear cover..say 30 mm
Imagine trying to heat that house in winter
We don’t really get much of a winter
How big is your actual crew and imma framer\stripper put on safety officer, and favourite part of the job?
I used to have a larger team with up to 8 guys doing suspended slabs but I did not enjoy it anymore. I now like to work on my own or with just 1 or 2 guys. I call on help when I need it. I don't understand the imma framer/stripper safety officer bit?? Favourite part is complex set-outs. Using maths and brain to find simple solutions.
Not a fan of how you're using that square for your holes. There's nothing actually square happening there - you're just eyeballing it, and that's not going to be accurate.
Try it. It’s actually very hard not to get it perfect. You can also use stair gauges on your square as stops for more speed and accuracy. You have to have your square quite a long way out of square for your measurements to be out
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 You would actually be much more accurate by making a mark with a punch (or a pencil) at the inside corner of the square (with your measurements adjusted accordingly), then putting the drill bit in the mark made by the punch. By putting your marking tool tight against the inside corner you eliminate any eyeballing or guesswork and get much more repeatable hole positioning.
Thats why concrete homes are hardly ever built where there is winter
I’m not sure that is true, I mean there aren’t many concrete homes anywhere. Here it is a novelty to have concrete, it’s something that not many others have which is what makes it interesting. It can be insulated, you just put insulation in side it. We have done it before and it then has quite good insulation properties.
How in the world is tik tok getting millions of views, and this barely ten k. There must be millions who are to freakin lazy to get a proper job, sadly.
I think I would be more concerned if billions of people were watching formwork videos haha. But yes no one wants to do manual work, good for us who do though as the massive labour shortages provide us better rates.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 with the amount of need for houses in the Netherlands, mainly because of “labour”, “illegal”migration I’ll have work forever, and surprisingly there no hands available.